THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


A  HANDBOOK  OF 
NEW    ENGLAND 


*g  i^anfrfrooh 


Published 

THE  BEST  PRIVATE  SCHOOLS,  1915 
AMERICAN  PRIVATE  SCHOOLS,  1916 
NEW  ENGLAND,  1916 

In  Preparation 

COLLEGES  AND  UNIVERSITIES 
A  Critical  Study  and-Appraisal 

THE  MIDDLE  STATES 

Uniform  with  New  England 

BUDDHISM 
ROME 


£>argent'0  J 


A  HANDBOOK  OF 


NEW  ENGLAND 


AN   ANNUAL    PUBLICATION 


PORTER  E.   SARGENT 
BOSTON 


COPYRIGHT,  1910,  BY 
PORTER  E.  SARGENT 


Map 

Library 


Z.3 

Hi* 


TO  THOSE 
WELL-INFORMED  AND  PUBLIC-SPIRITED 

NEW  ENGLANDERS 

WHOSE   CORDIAL   COOPERATION  HAS   MADE  POSSIBLE 
THIS   BOOK 


625814 


PUBLISHER'S  NOTE 


Strange  as  it  may  seem,  this  Handbook  covers  a  field  as  yet  unoc- 
cupied. No  single  book  exists  which  serves  to  acquaint  visitor  and 
resident  alike  with  New  England  as  a  whole. 

There  is  the  greater  need  of  it  as  New  England  is  America's  most 
frequented  summer  playground.  Hundreds  of  thousands  of  visitors 
come  every  summer.  Though  no  accurate  count  is  possible,  Syl- 
vester Baxter  estimates  the  number  at  1,500,000.  Sixty  per  cent  of 
the  summer  tourists  to  New  England,  the  railroads  estimate,  come 
by  automobile.  For  all  these  there  has  been  no  adequate  guide-book 
that  would  properly  inform  them  of  what  lay  along  the  way. 

This  is  the  first  of  a  series  of  Handbooks  on  the  United  States  which, 
if  well  received,  will  eventually  cover  the  country.  Already  material 
has  been  accumulated  for  a  similar  Handbook  of  the  Middle  States. 
It  is  intended  to  make  them  humanized  Baedekers,  descriptive  of  town 
and  country  along  the  chief  routes  of  automobile  travel.  With  today 
2,400,000  automobiles  in  the  country,  an  average  of  about  one  to  each 
forty  inhabitants,  the  State  and  National  Highways  will  become  more 
and  more  the  chief  routes  of  travel. 

It  is  aimed  to  fill  these  books  with  human  interest  information, 
to  make  them  in  a  way  a  new  kind  of  journalism,  to  be  rewritten  and 
republished  annually.  Only  through  such  continual  revision  can  a 
Handbook  covering  so  many  details  be  made  accurate  and  up-to-date. 

The  revision  of  this  Handbook  for  the  1917  edition  will  begin  imme- 
diately. Correction  of  errors  and  notification  of  important  omissions 
will  be  gratefully  received.  It  has  been  impossible  to  carry  out  in 
this  first  edition  many  features  projected.  In  the  1917  edition  the 
maps  will  be  greatly  increased  in  number  and  value.  The  illustra- 
tions, the  purpose  of  which  is  to  attract  the  attention  or  assist  in  iden- 
tifying objects  of  interest,  will  be  multiplied.  Additional  introduc- 
tory chapters  will  be  added.  The  New  England  Coast  will  be  treated 
also  from  the  yachtsman's  point  of  view,  and  there  will  be  added  a 
Yachtsman's  Directory. 

This  is  the  second  volume  of  the  Sargent  Handbook  Series  to  appear. 
The  first,  the  Best  Private  Schools,  met  with  the  most  enthusiastic 
and  cordial  reception.  In  the  first  six  months  7500  copies  of  the 
edition  of  10,000  were  distributed.  A  second  edition,  revised  and 
enlarged  with  many  new  features,  appears  simultaneously  with  this 
volume.  Other  volumes  of  the  Series  are  in  preparation. 


(6) 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

INTRODUCTORY 

PAGE 

How  THIS  BOOK  WAS  MADE 17 

NEW  ENGLAND  IN  THE  LARGE 21 

Generalizations  on  Many  Topics. 

OLD  NEW  ENGLAND 24 

A  Geological  Interpretation  and  Retrospect. 

THE  NEW  ENGLAND  CLIMATE 30 

Tributes  of  Poets,  Pessimists,  and  Philosophers. 

THE  FLORA  OF  NEW  ENGLAND     31 

Characteristic  Trees,  Shrubs,  and  Plants. 

ABORIGINES  AND  SLAVERY     33 

The  Indian  Lords  of  the  Soil  and  their  Fate. 

THE  NEW  ENGLANDER 36 

His  Character,  his  Conscience,  and  his  God. 

THE  LANGUAGE  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 38 

Usages  and  Survivals,  on  the  Map  and  on  the  Tongue. 

THE  NEW  ENGLAND  VILLAGE 40 

As  a  Social  Community;   Origins  of  Democracy. 

ROADS  AND  HIGHWAYS 43 

From  Indian  Trails  to  Boulevards. 

NEW  ENGLAND  ARCHITECTURE      46 

Colonial,  Georgian,  Roman,  Gothic,  and  Municipal. 

THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND- 51 

Their  Individuality  and  Origin. 

MAINE 51 

NEW  HAMPSHIRE 53 

VERMONT 55 

MASSACHUSETTS 57 

RHODE  ISLAND 59 

CONNECTICUT 61 

HOW  TO  USE  THIS  HANDBOOK 64 


(7) 


TABLE    OF   CONTENTS 


ROUTES 

PAGE 

1.  NEW  YORK  VIA  SPRINGFIELD  TO  BOSTON  65 

§  1  New  York  to  New  Haven  66 

§  2  New  Haven  to  Hartford  106 

§  3  Hartford  to  Springfield  118 

§  4  Springfield  to  Worcester       ,  130 

§  5  Worcester  to  Boston  140 

2.  NEW  HAVEN  VIA  NEW  LONDON  TO  BOSTON  150 

§  1  New  Haven  to  New  London  150 

§  2  New  London  to  Providence  166 

§  3  Providence  to  Boston  193 

3.  NEW  YORK  VIA  WILLIMANTIC  TO  BOSTON  203 

§  1  New  York  via  Danbury  to  Hartford  203 

§  2  Hartford  via  Willimantic  to  Boston  212 

4.  NEW  YORK  VIA  THE  HUDSON  TO  ALBANY 

WITH  ENTRANCE  ROUTES  INTO  NEW  ENGLAND  222 

§  1  New  York  to  Poughkeepsie  222 

§  2  Poughkeepsie  to  Albany  23 1 

5.  NEW  YORK  TO  THE  BERKSHIRES  AND  MONTREAL  234 

§  1  New  York  to  Pittsfield  234 

§  2  Pittsfield  to  Williamstown  253 

§  3  Williamstown  to  Manchester  257 

§  4  Manchester  to  Rutland  262 

§  5  Rutland  to  Burlington  263 

§  6  Burlington  to  Montreal  272 

6.  NORWALK  TO  LlTCHFIELD  AND  TORRINGTON  275 

7.  STRATFORD  TO  WATERBURY  AND  WINSTED  279 

8.  SALISBURY  TO  CANAAN,  WINSTED,  AND  HARTFORD  286 

9.  DERBY  TO  NEW  MILFORD,  CORNWALL,  AND  CANAAN  288 
10.  THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  ROUTES  290 

§  1  West  Bank:  Saybrook  to  Hartford  291 

East  Bank:  Old  Lyme  to  Hartford  299 

§2  East  Bank:  Hartford  to  Springfield  303 

West  Bank:  Hartford  to  Springfield  304 

§  3  West  Bank :  Springfield  to  Greenfield  309 

East  Bank:  Springfield  to  Millers  Falls  *  321 

§  4  West  Bank:  Greenfield  to  Bellows  Falls  328 

East  Bank:  Millers  Falls  to  Charlestown  334 

§5  West  Bank:  Bellows  Falls  to  White  River  Jet.  340 

East  Bank:  Charlestown  to  West  Lebanon  345 

§  6  West  Bank:  White  River  Jet.  to  Colebrook  354 

East  Bank:  West  Lebanon  to  Bretton  Woods  360 

§7  East  Bank:  Bret  ton  .Woods  to  Colebrook  364 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS 


PACE 

11.  NORWICH  TO  WILLIMANTIC  AND  WORCESTER  366 

12.  NEW  LONDON  TO  WORCESTER  AND  CONCORD,  N.H.  369 

§  1  New  London  to  Worcester  369 

§  2  Worcester  to  Concord,  N.H.  375 

13.  ALBANY  VIA  PITTSFIELD  AND  SPRINGFIELD  TO  BOSTON  381 

§  1  Albany  to  Pittsneld  381 

§  2  Pittsneld  to  Springfield  386 

14.  PITTSFIELD  TO  ASHFIELD  AND  NORTHAMPTON  397 

15.  ALBANY  VIA  GREENFIELD  TO  BOSTON  401 

§  1  Albany  to  Williamstown  401 

§  2  Williamstown  to  Greenfield  409 

§  3  Greenfield  to  Boston  415 

16.  PROVIDENCE  TO  TAUNTON  AND  PLYMOUTH  431 

17.  PROVIDENCE  VIA  FALL  RIVER  TO  BUZZARDS  BAY  434 

18.  PROVIDENCE  TO  NEWPORT  439 

19.  PROVIDENCE  TO  WORCESTER  AND  TICONDEROGA  443 

§  1  Providence  to  Worcester  443 

§  2  Worcester  to  Brattleboro  445 

§  3  Brattleboro  to  Manchester  448 

§  4  Manchester  to  Ticonderoga  450 

20.  BOSTON  AND  CAMBRIDGE  451 

21.  ROUND  ABOUT  METROPOLITAN  BOSTON  475 

22.  BOSTON  TO  WEYMOUTH,  HANOVER,  AND  PLYMOUTH  483 

23.  BOSTON  TO  BRIDGE  WATER  AND  MANSFIELD  484 

RETURNING  VIA  WALPOLE  AND  NORWOOD 

I 

24.  BOSTON  TO  WTELLESLEY,  FRAMINGHAM,  AND  GRAFTON  485 

RETURNING  VIA  MEDFIELD  AND  DOVER 

25.  BOSTON  TO  HARVARD,  PRINCETON,  AND  CLINTON  499 

RETURNING  VIA  HUDSON  AND  SUDBURY 

26.  BOSTON  TO  BEDFORD,  GROTON,  AND  ASHBY  506 

27.  BOSTON  TO  BILLERICA  AND  LOWELL  508 

28.  BOSTON  TO  READING,  ANDOVER,  AND  HAVERHILL  509 

29.  BOSTON    TO    WTAKEFIELD,    PEABODY,    TOPSFIELD, 

GEORGETOWN,  AND  HAVERHILL  514 

30.  BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  AND  PROVINCETOWN  517 

§  1  Boston  via  Cohasset  to  Plymouth  517 

§  2  Plymouth  to  Provincetown  542 

31.  BOSTON  TO  BUZZARDS  BAY  AND  CHATHAM  557 

§  1  Boston  to  Buzzards  Bay  557 

§  2  Buzzards  Bay  to  Chatham  564 

32.  BOSTON  TO  FALL  RIVER  AND  NEWPORT  572 


TABLE   OF    CONTENTS 


PACE 

33.  BOSTON  TO  FITCHBURG,  KEENE,  AND  RUTLAND  596 

§  1  Boston  to  Bellows  Falls  596 

§  2  Bellows  Falls  to  Rutland  598 

34.  BOSTON  TO  CONCORD,  N.H.,  LAKE  WINNEPESAUKEE, 

BRETTON  WOODS,  AND  THE  WHITE  Mrs.  600 

35.  BOSTON  TO  PORTSMOUTH  625 

Via  the  Newburyport  Turnpike  and  the  Lafay- 
ette Road. 

36.  BOSTON  TO  PORTSMOUTH  AND  PORTLAND  627 

§  1  Boston  to  Newburyport  627 

§  2  Newburyport  to  Portsmouth  663 

§3  Portsmouth  to  Portland  671 

37.  SALEM  VIA  DANVERS  TO  LAWRENCE  690 

38.  NEWBURYPORT  TO  LOWELL  AND  LITTLETON  694 

Via  Amesbury,  Haverhill,  and  Lawrence. 

39.  PORTSMOUTH  TO  EXETER  AND  MANCHESTER  702 

40.  NASHUA  TO  PETERBORO  AND  KEENE  704 

41.  BRATTLEBORO  TO  BENNINGTON  706 

42.  PORTSMOUTH     TO    DOVER,    OSSIPEE,    THE     WHITE 

MTS.,  GORHAM,  AND  THE  DlXVILLE  NOTCH  708 

43.  PLYMOUTH,  N.H.,  TO  LAKE  SUNAPEE,  CLAREMONT, 

MANCHESTER,  VT.,  AND  SARATOGA  SPRINGS  719 

44.  WHITE  RIVER  JUNCTION  TO  LAKE  GEORGE  726 

Via  the  Ottaquechee  valley  and  Rutland. 

45.  WHITE  RIVER  JUNCTION  TO  MONTPELIER  729 

46.  BRETTON  WOODS  TO  MONTPELIER  AND  BURLINGTON     731 

Via  St.  Johnsbury  and  Waterbury. 

47.  BURLINGTON  TO  NEWPORT,  LAKE  MEMPHREMAGOG, 

WlLLOUGHBY,  AND    Si.  JOHNSBURY  735 

48.  FRANKLIN,  N.H.,  to  WEST  LEBANON  739 

49.  BRETTON  WOODS  TO  BANGOR  740 

Via  Bethel,  Rumford,  and  Skowhegan. 

50.  PORTLAND  TO  SEBAGO  LAKE,  NORTH  CONWAY,  CRAW- 

FORD NOTCH  AND  BRETTON  WOODS  742 

51.  PORTLAND  TO  POLAND  SPRING,  BETHEL,  GORHAM, 

AND  BRETTON  WOODS  749 

52.  PORTLAND  TO  AUBURN,  FARMINGTON,  AND  RANGELEY    753 

RETURNING  VIA  SKOWHEGAN  TO  BANGOR 

53.  PORTLAND  TO  AUGUSTA,  WTATERVILLE,  AND  BANGOR    757 

Via  Auburn,  Belgrade  Lakes,  and  the  Kennebec. 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS 


54.  PORTLAND  ALONG  THE  MAINE  COAST  TO  CALAIS  763 

§  1  Portland  to  Ellsworth  763 

§  2  Ellsworth  to  Calais  779 

55.  BRUNSWICK  TO  GARDINER,  AUGUSTA,  AND  QUEBEC  783 

Via  Waterville,  Skowhegan,  and  Jackman. 

56.  NEWPORT  TO  DOVER  AND  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE  786 

RETURNING  VIA  KENDUSKEAG  TO  BANGOR 

57.  BELFAST  TO  BANGOR  AND  HOULTON  788 

Via  the  Penobscot,  Old  Town,  and  Patten. 

DIRECTORIES 

FERRIES  AND  STEAMSHIPS  791 
DIRECTORY  OF  HOTELS,  TEA  ROOMS,  GARAGES,  REAL 

ESTATE  DEALERS,  SHOPS,  ETC.  794 

NEW  ENGLAND  SCHOOLS  810 

NEW  ENGLAND  SUMMER  CAMPS  FOR  BOYS  AND  GIRLS  813 

PUBLISHERS'  ANNOUNCEMENTS  816 

FAMOUS  PRODUCTS  OF  NEW  ENGLAND  817 

HIGHWAY  CONSTRUCTION  825 

INDEX  828 

SARGENT'S  HANDBOOK  SERIES  844 

LIST  OF  MAPS 

Key  Map  of  New  England,  inside  front  cover;  Key  Map  of 
Eastern  Mass.,  inside  back  cover;  Plan  of  New  Haven,  96; 
Plan  of  Hartford,  112;  Plan  of  Providence,  185;  Exit  routes 
from  New  York  City,  221;  Route  Map  of  Connecticut  region, 
284-5;  Plan  of  Concord,  Mass.,  425;  Route  Map  of  Rhode 
Island  region,  433;  Plan  of  Cambridge  and  Harvard  Univer- 
sity, 470;  Entrance  routes  to  Boston,  482;  Plan  of  Newport, 
589- 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

THE  TOM  PAINE  HOUSE,  NEW  ROCHELLE  69 

THE  HISTORIC  BURR  MANSION,  F AIRFIELD  84 

THE  ROMANTIC  OLD  ELY  MANSION,  LONGMEADOW  121 

THE  SALISBURY  HOUSE,  WORCESTER  138 

THE  OLD  STONE  HOUSE,  GUILFORD  153 

THE  SULLIVAN  DORR  HOUSE,  PROVIDENCE  187 
THE  FAIRBANKS  HOUSE,  DEDHAM,  1636,  THE  OLDEST 

WOODEN  HOUSE  IN  AMERICA  2OI 
THE  VAN  CORTLANDT  MANSION,  VAN  CORTLANDT  PARK, 

NEW  YORK  203 

THE  HISTORIC  PHILIPSE  MANOR,  YONKERS  224 
"FOR  GOD  AND  COUNTRY."  THE  OLD  FIRST  CHURCH 

AND  BATTLE  MONUMENT,  BENNINGTON  259 
THE  OLD  GOVERNOR  OLIVER  WOLCOTT  MANSION,  LITCH- 

FIELD  277 

THE  WEBB  HOUSE, 'HOSPITALITY HALL,' WETHERSFIELD  297 
HIGH-BOY  SCROLL  DOORWAY  OF  THE  ELEAZER  PORTER 

HOUSE  324 

THE  MEETING  HOUSE,  LENOX  389 
THE  BOYHOOD  HOME  OF  CHARLES  DUDLEY  WARNER, 

CHARLEMONT  413 

THE  WAYSIDE,  CONCORD  426 
THE  DE  WOLF-COLT  MANSION,  BRISTOL.  DESIGNED  BY 

RUSSELL  WARREN  441 

PAUL  REVERE  HOUSE,  BOSTON  461 

THE  CRAIGIE-LONGFELLOW  HOUSE,  CAMBRIDGE  465 

MASSACHUSETTS  HALL,  1720,  HARVARD  COLLEGE  467 
THE  FIFTH  MEETING  HOUSE,  LANCASTER.  DESIGNED 

BY  BULFINCH  5OI 
PRINCETON  FROM  JONES  HILL,  LOOKING  TOWARD  MT. 

WACHUSETT  503 

THE  PARSON  CAPEN  HOUSE,  TOPSFIELD  515 
THE  QUINCY  MANSION,  KNOWN  AS  THE  DOROTHY  Q. 

HOUSE,  QUINCY  521 

THE  OLD  SHIP  CHURCH,  HINGHAM,  1681  525 

THE  STANDISH  COTTAGE,  DUXBURY  535 

THE  STARK  MONUMENT,  MANCHESTER,  N.H.  607 

THE  BALCH  HOUSE,  BEVERLY,  1638  651 

THE  WHIPPLE  HOUSE  (1650),  IPSWICH  654 

THE  WARNER  HOUSE,  PORTSMOUTH  668 

FORT  MCCLARY,  KITTERY,  ME.  672 

THE  PAGE  HOUSE,  DANVERS  691 

W'HITTIER'S  BIRTHPLACE,  HAVERHILL  697 

EDGECOMB  BLOCKHOUSE,  EDGECOMB,  ME.  768 

FORT  GEORGE,  CASTINE,  ME.  775 

(12) 


INTRODUCTORY 


IN  PREPARATION 
For  the  Second  Edition,  1917 

Local  Authorities  and  others  interested  are  re- 
quested to  send  notifications  of  errors  and  important 
omissions  that  will  be  of  assistance  in  making  the 
1917  Revision  more  accurate  and  better  proportioned. 

Photographs  for  illustrations  of  notable  old  houses, 
antique  doorways  and  important  monuments,  town 
and  local  maps,  uncopy righted,  or  with  permission 
to  use  in  compiling  new  maps  will  be  appreciated  and 
acknowledged. 


EDITORIAL  FOREWORD 

In  defense  of  this  book  the  editor  wishes  to  make  it  clear  that 
this  is  a  first  edition, — a  beginning,  not  an  end.  The  present  book 
is  frankly  an  inadequate  treatment  of  a  great  and  worthy  theme. 
Revised  editions  must  appear  before  an  adequate  result  is  attained. 

This  Handbook  of  New  England  has  not  been  made  primarily  for 
the  intellectual  divertissement  of  New  Englanders.  The  visitor,  on 
the  other  hand,  the  stranger  from  without  our  gates,  the  "Man  from 
Missouri,"  has  been  kept  constantly  in  mind.  The  desire  has  been 
to  divulge  in  a  large  way  to  the  possible  or  actual  visitor  what  New 
England  holds  for  him. 

To  attempt  to  enlighten  the  intelligent  New  Englander  in  regard 
to  the  history,  antiquities,  or  modern  developments  of  his  own  town 
is  wholly  beyond  the  limitations  of  this  volume.  We  have  sought 
only  to  bring  together  what  the  casual  visitor  or  tourist  most  wants 
to  know,  what  the  well-informed  resident  knows,  about  a  town, — why 
it  is  on  the  map,  who  made  it,  and  what  it  now  makes. 

The  tests  of  what  should  be  included,  what  omitted,  have  been 
frankly  journalistic.  The  desire  has  been  to  select  human  interest 
information  of  contemporary  value.  While  the  publisher  has  had 
every  desire  to  tell  of  the  'live'  things  of  today  rather  than  to  dwell 
upon  the  past,  he  has  not  always  been  able  to  share  the  enthusiasm 
of  the  local  citizen  for  "our  new  $30,000  gas  plant"  or  the  "new 
model  concrete  shoe  factory,"  to  the  featuring  this  rather  than  some 
really  great  citizen  or  event  of  economic  importance  in  the  past. 

One  purpose  steadily  kept  in  mind  has  been  to  present  New  Eng- 
land in  an  all-round  way  with  a  critical  eye  and  a  sense  of  proportion 
and  with  something  of  vision.  For  vision  is  perhaps  what  we  most 
lack,  and  the  accumulated  and  coordinated  facts  on  which  to  base  it. 

The  New  England  of  today,  the  New  England  that  is  really  new, 
has  been  kept  in  the  foreground.  What  a  community  is  doing  today, 
its  industries,  the  people  who  live  there,  have  been  regarded  as  of 
first  importance.  What  there  is  to  say  of  antiquities,  old  houses, 
modern  buildings,  natural  features,  and  the  story  connected  there- 
with has  been  proportionately  treated. 

But  all  this  to  have  meaning  must  have  added  the  background  of 
the  past.  The  New  England  of  the  Puritans  with  its  origins  of 
American  institutions,  brought  to  mind  by  ancient  houses  and  his- 
torical landmarks,  must  always  loom  large  in  the  imagination  of  any 
visitor.  Eighteenth-century  Colonial  New  England  with  its  epi- 
sodes of  the  Revolution,  its  battle  fields,  historical  monuments,  and 
reminiscences  of  Tory  and  Patriot,  will  have  prime  interest  for  every 
American.  The  New  England  of  the  nineteenth  century,  of  Daniel 
Webster,  of  William  Lloyd  Garrison,  the  period  of  upbuilding  of 
our  modern  factory  industries,  will  appeal  to  all  interested  in  the 
development  of  American  institutions. 

(IS) 


1 6  EDITORIAL   FOREWORD 


Much  will  be  encountered  in  these  pages  which  fails  to  coincide 
with  accepted  traditions.  If  by  quoting  reliable  contemporary 
authorities,  the  falsity  of  generally  accepted  views  can  be  shown, 
it  is  believed  that  some  service  will  have  been  done.  Many  legends 
of  New  England,  magnified  by  numerous  repetitions,  are  dissipated 
by  inquiry.  The  bleakness  of  New  England,  the  barrenness  of 
New  England  soil,  the  wickedness  of  the  Tories  and  the  sanctity  of 
the  Sons  of  Liberty,  the  self-abnegation  of  the  Puritans,  all  are  sub- 
jects worthy  of  elimination. 

It  is  natural  enough  to  regard  the  past  as  more  virtuous,  to  bestow 
a  halo  on  characters  of  the  past,  but  human  nature  in  its  fundamentals 
has  not  changed  since  the  first  settlement  of  New  England,  and  any 
clear  understanding  of  Colonial  times  must  recognize  that  there  was 
present  the  same  desire  for  gain,  for  wealth  and  power  as  today. 

As  anything  like  adequate  treatment  of  the  Commonwealths  of 
New  England  was,  of  course,  impossible  in  the  brief  compass  per- 
mitted, a  light,  swift  treatment  has  been  given  which  may  prove 
illuminating.  Boston,  too,  would  of  course  require  a  volume  for 
adequate  treatment,  and  has  therefore  been  handled  somewhat 
briskly.  In  treating  of  the  great  universities,  again  we  have  been 
somewhat  appalled  by  the  largeness  of  the  theme,  and  so  have  been 
led  to  approach  the  subject  in  the  naive  manner  of  one  who  assumes 
nothing  as  granted. 

The  purpose  of  the  Introductory  Chapters  has  been  to  illumine 
some  particular  phases  of  New  England  and  its  life,  past  or  present, 
more  completely  than  could  be  attained  in  the  route  descriptions. 
Anything  like  an  encyclopedic  treatise  of  the  subject  has  been 
furthest  from  our  purpose.  The  intent  has  been  rather  to  touch  upon 
the  'high  spots,'  each  subject  in  a  more  or  less  journalistic  way. 

As  historical  backgrounds  are  necessary,  so  it  may  not  be  too 
presumptuous  to  claim  that  no  one  can  know  his  New  England  inti- 
mately unless  he  sees  it  with  the  vision  of  a  million  years.  The 
chapter  on  the  Geology  has  as  its  only  purpose  that  of  interpreting 
the  physical  features  of  New  England  in  terms  of  the  geologic  past. 

The  Editor  is  fully  aware  of  more  defects  and  shortcomings  in 
this  Handbook  than  the  most  captious  critic  is  likely  to  discover. 
It  is  anticipated  that  there  will  be  some  local  grumbling  at  criticism 
or  inadequate  treatment,  which,  if  unfair,  will  be  righted  in  future 
editions.  All  that  is  hoped  for  is  that  the  volume  may  be  recognized 
as  having  sufficient  merit  to  warrant  its  being  improved  in  successive 
annual  editions. 


HOW  THIS  BOOK  WAS  MADE 

This  is  not  a  one-man  book.  Upward  of  a  thousand  live  New 
Englanders  have  contributed  to  its  making  and  the  writings  of  at  least 
as  many  dead  ones.  Without  the  generous  assistance  of  public-spirited 
citizens  throughout  New  England,  the  great  mass  of  up-to-date 
matter  could  never  have  been  brought  together.  The  task  of 
accumulating  this  information  has  been  even  larger  than  was  origi- 
nally anticipated.  Incidentally,  it  has  necessitated  the  use  of  some 
50,000  postage  stamps. 

A  little  more  than  a  year  ago  the  work  of  accumulating  material 
was  begun.  A  reconnaissance  was  first  made  of  all  that  had  been 
published.  Hundreds  of  lineal  feet  of  classified  shelves  on  New 
England  and  its  history  in  the  great  libraries  of  Boston  and  New 
York  were  examined.  Hundreds  of  books  were  listed  and  ran- 
sacked and  periodical  literature  was  searched  for  fugitive  articles. 
All  the  more  useful  material  was  reduced  to  a  card  catalog  of  refer- 
ences and  abstracts. 

Meanwhile  a  circular  letter  with  a  prospectus  of  the  volume  was 
sent  to  3000  local  authorities  throughout  New  England,  appealing 
for  information,  local  contributions,  references  to  literature,  and  the 
names  of  those  specially  interested  in  the  history,  antiquities,  or  in 
promoting  the  interests  of  their  communities.  This  brought  a  wealth 
of  information,  and  was  the  beginning  of  an  extensive  correspondence. 

A  plan  was  worked  out,  a  sketch  map  of  routes  with  lists  of  towns 
made  up,  a  file  of  clippings,  maps,  contributions,  photographs,  local 
booklets,  pamphlets,  and  board  of  trade  publications  accumulated. 

From  all  this  material  preliminary  '  copy '  was  prepared  in  which 
many  questions  were  asked  and  further  requests  for  information 
made.  This  was  sent  to  about  five  hundred  correspondents  in  every 
locality,  requesting  corrections  and  additions.  From  the  material 
which  then  flowed  in  and  further  accumulations  from  the  files  of 
local  New  England  magazines,  the  remarkable  'morgue'  of  the 
"Youth's  Companion,"  and  from  library  investigation,  the  original 
manuscript  was  elaborated  and  rewritten.  This  was  again  sent 
out  to  local  authorities  for  further  correction  and  annotation, 
portions  of  the  routes  having  in  this  way  been  successively  revised 
and  rewritten  many  times. 

The  Introductory  Chapters  are  similarly  a  composite  work  for 
which  contributions  have  been  received  from  many.  Especially 
helpful  has  been  the  assistance  of  Messrs.  Sylvester  Baxter  and 
Nathan  Haskell  Dole,  and  the  constructive  criticism  of  Messrs. 
Henry  A.  Barker  and  James  P.  Taylor. 

Nothing  has  been  published  which  has  not  been  submitted  to  local 
authorities.  '  Some  of  the  manuscript  has  been  critically  read  by  a 
score  or  more  of  those  locally  interested.  Similarly  the  proof  sheets, 
as  rapidly  as  they  were  ready,  have  been  again  sent  out.  Chambers 

(17) 


l8  HOW   THIS   BOOK   WAS   MADE 

of  Commerce,  Publicity  Bureaus,  Librarians,  Local  Historians,  Pub- 
licity Departments  of  leading  firms  and  manufacturers,  Editors  of 
local  newspapers,  State  Highway  Commissions,  Heads  of  Private 
Schools  and  Colleges  have  all  contributed.  In  all,  somewhat  over 
a  thousand  individual  contributions  have  been  so  elicited. 

Acknowledgment  is  gratefully  made  to  the  Houghton  Mifflin 
Company  for  their  courtesy  in  granting  permission  to  use  quotations 
from  their  copyrighted  editions  of  the  New  England  Poets,  and  to 
Little,  Brown  &  Co.,  and  others  for  similar  privileges. 

A  staff  of  investigators  and  writers,  in  all  about  twenty,  has  been 
engaged  in  bringing  together  and  putting  in  shape  this  accumulation 
of  material.  Mr.  Edgar  W.  Anthony,  Jr.,  Harvard  '12,  did  a  large 
part  of  the  preliminary  investigation.  Miss  Cecilia  Rogers  has 
had  general  charge  of  the  material  on  northern  New  England,  and 
Miss  Marguerite  Waldmyer  (Wellesley,  sp.),  of  southern  New 
England.  The  technical  details  of  standardization  and  presswork 
have  been  in  the  hands  of  Mr.  John  Chilton  Scammell,  Harvard  '07. 

In  the  final  editing,  the  assistance  has  been  secured  of  such  well- 
known  authors  and  publicists  as  Mr.  George  Gladden  and  Miss 
Sarah  Comstock  for  the  region  near  New  York,  Mr.  Oscar  Fay 
Adams  for  eastern  Massachusetts,  Mr.  Sylvester  Baxter  for  Metro- 
politan Boston,  and  Mr.  Nathan  Haskell  Dole  for  portions  of  Maine. 

Grateful  acknowledgment  must  be  made  to  the  hundreds  of  public- 
spirited  New  Englanders  who  by  contributions,  corrections,  and 
constructive  criticism  have  greatly  aided  in  the  making  of  this 
book.  To  Mr.  Henry  A.  Barker  and  his  sister,  Mrs.  Gardner,  belong 
a  large  degree  of  any  credit  that  may  attach  to  the  Rhode  Island 
sections  of  this  book.  The  Rev.  Frank  S.  Child  of  Fairfield,  Conn., 
has  been  untiring  in  his  assistance.  Mr.  Leonard  Withington  of 
Portland,  Me.,  and  Mrs.  F.  E.  Chadwick  of  Newport,  R.I.,  also 
deserve  special  recognition  for  their  contributions.  Among  others  to 
whom  acknowledgment  is  due,  the  following  are  but  representative: 

MAINE.  Cyrus  C.  Babb,  Dist.  Engineer,  Geol.  Survey,  Augusta; 
C.  B.  Bolles,  Editor,  Bar  Harbor;  George  B.  Dorr,  Bar  Harbor; 
Charles  H.  Fogg,  Third  Vice  Pres.  Me.  Autom.  Assoc.,  Houlton; 
Maurice  W.  Hamblen,  Bridgton;  Mrs.  Emma  J.  Hosmer,  Lib'n, 
Camden  Pub.  Lib.;  Fritz  H.  Jordan,  W.  S.  Jordan  &  Co.,  Portland; 
W.  F.  Livingston,  Asst.  Lib'n,  Maine  State  Lib.,  Augusta;  Paul  D. 
Sargent,  Chf.  Engineer  State  Highway  Comm.,  Augusta;  H.  L. 
Shepherd,  Pres.  S.  E.  &  H.  L.  Shepherd  Co.,  Rockport;  Frank  D. 
Tubbs,  Dept.  of  Geol.  &  Astronomy,  Bates  College,  Lewiston; 
Rev.  Daniel  Munro  Wilson,  Kennebunk;  Leonard  Withington,  Sec. 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  Portland. 

NEW  HAMPSHIRE.  Ernest  Harold  Baynes,  Gen.  Mgr.,  The 
Meriden  Bird  Club,  Meriden;  Edward  A.  Benner,  Dir.  Camp 
Wellesley,  Ossipee;  George  Waldo  Browne,  Author  and  Editor, 
Manchester;  Daniel  W.  Cole,  Sec.  Board  of  Trade,  Hillsboro;  Olin 
S.  Davis,  Pub.  Lib.,  Laconia;  Frederic  E.  Everett,  State  Highway 
Comm.,  Concord;  Miss  Mary  Morison,  Trustee  Peterboro  Town 
Lib.,  Peterboro;  E.  Bertram  Pike,  Pres.  Pike  Mfg.  Co.,  Pike; 
George  Israel  Putnam,  U.S.A.,  Charlestown;  F.  W.  Shelton,  Pres. 
Board  of  Trade,  Henniker;  Mrs.  Jere  L.  Smith,  Smithtown. 


HOW  THIS   BOOK   WAS   MADE  19 

VERMONT.  Guy  W.  Bailey,  Sec.  of  State,  Essex  Junction;  Willard 
W.  Bartlett,  Sec.  Vt.  Improvement  As.,  Bennington;  S.  B.  Bates, 
State  Highway  Comm.,  Franklin;  Warwick  S.  Carpenter,  Wood- 
ford;  Winston  Churchill,  Novelist,  Windsor;  Sherman  Evarts, 
Windsor;  Edward  T.  Fairbanks,  Lib'n  St.  Johnsbury  Athenaeum, 
St.  Johnsbury;  C.  J.  Farnsworth,  Camp  Hanoum,  Thetford;  Percy 
MacKaye,  Dramatist,  Windsor;  A.  C.  Mason,  Sec.  Rutland  Bus. 
Men's  As.,  Rutland;  Prof.  G.  H.  Perkins,  State  Geologist,  Burling- 
ton; Homer  Saint-Gaudens,  Windsor;  James  P.  Taylor,  Greater 
Vt.  As.,  Burlington;  John  M.  Thomas,  Pres.,  Middlebury  Coll., 
Middlebury;  E.  Lee  Whitney,  Vt.  State  Lib.,  Montpelier. 

MASSACHUSETTS.  Frederick  S.  Allis,  Alumni  Council,  Amherst 
Coll.,  Amherst;  Prof.  L.  B.  Allyn,  the  McClure  Publications,  West- 
field;  William  Sumner  Appleton,  Cor.  Sec.  of  Soc.  for  Pres.  of  N.E. 
Antiquities,  Boston;  Roger  W.  Babson,  Wellesley  Hills;  Bertha  E. 
Blakeley,  Mt.  Holyoke  College,  South  Hadley;  Charles  B.  Blanch- 
ard,  Brookline;  E.  J.  Carpenter,  Sec.  Cape  Cod  Pilgrim  Mem.  As., 
Provincetown;  O.  B.  Carson,  American  Optical  Co.,  Southbridge; 
Mrs.  William  Catto,  Nahant;  Rev.  W.  L.  Chaffin,  North  Easton; 
Walter  Channing,  Dover;  F.  L.  Claflin,  Pres.  First  National  Bank, 
Marlboro;  Charles  H.  Clark,  W.  G.  Clark  &  Co.,  North  Attleboro; 
George  E.  Coates,  Sec.  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Lynn;  Samuel  B. 
Corr,  Sec.  Cape  Cod  Board  of  Trade,  Sandwich;  Sarah  E.  Getting, 
Lib'n,  Marlboro;  Mrs.  Mary  P.  Cushman,  Brookline;  A.  W.  Dean, 
State  Highway  Comm.,  Boston;  George  Francis  Dow,  Sec.  Essex 
Inst.,  Salem;  Dr.  Gilman  A.  Drew,  Dir.  Marine  Biological  Lab., 
Woods  Hole;  Walter  Pritchard  Eaton,  Dramatic  Critic,  Stock- 
bridge;  Frederick  L.  Emery,  Lexington;  George  E.  Foss,  Sec. 
Board  of  Trade,  Springfield;  Dr.  J.  M.  French,  Milford;  C.  W. 
Frye,  Scituate;  Dr.  Claude  M.  Fuess,  Phillips  Andover  Academy, 
Andover;  Augustus  A.  Galloupe,  Beverly;  Albert  E.  Hale,  Newbury- 
port;  Hon.  John  O.  Hall,  Sec.  Board  of  Trade,  Quincy;  Gerard 
Hallock,  Head  Master  Hallock  School,  Great  Barrington;  Frank 
Hosmer,  Pres.  Board  of  Trade,  Amherst;  Clifton  Johnson,  Hadley; 
Miss  Clara  A.  Jones,  Free  Lib.,  Warwick;  William  Littler,  Sec. 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  Brockton;  William  G.  Lord,  Athol;  Dr. 
John  S.  Lyon,  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Holyoke;  Miss  Katharine  P. 
Loring,  Prides  Crossing;  Prof.  Wm.  E.  McElfresh,  Williams  Coll., 
Williamstown;  Ambert  G.  Moody,  Treas.  Northfield  Schools,  East 
Northfield;  Prof.  Anson  D.  Morse,  Amherst  Coll.,  Amherst; 
Wallace  Nutting,  Art  Photographer,  Framingham;  Professor  George 
Herbert  Palmer,  Harvard  Univ.,  Cambridge;  Dr.  Fred  S.  Piper, 
Lexington;  Edgar  Potter,  Framingham;  Rev.  L.  M.  Powers, 
Gloucester;  R.  D.  Redfern,  Sec.  Board  of  Trade,  Fitchburg;  John 
Ritchie,  Jr.,  M.I.T.,  Boston;  Porter  Sargent,  Pres.  Powow  Na- 
tional Bank,  Amesbury;  Horace  S.  Sears,  Weston;  Mrs.  George 
Sheldon,  Deerfield;  Arthur  A.  Shurtleff,  Landscape  Architect,  Bos- 
ton; F.  E.  Smith,  Editor,  Newburyport;  Dr.  F.  H.  Smith,  Hadley; 
Gen.  Luther  Stephenson,  Hingham;  Samuel  D.  Stevens,  North 
Andover,  Mass.;  Howard  E.  Taylor,  Sec.  Board  of  Trade,  Pittsfield; 
Louis  B.  Thacher,  Boston;  John  E.  Thayer,  Ornithologist,  Lancas- 
ter; Eben  Francis  Thompson,  Worcester;  F.  N.  Thompson,  Green- 


20  HOW   THIS   BOOK   WAS    MADE 


field;  Fred  W.  Tibbets,  Sec.  Board  of  Trade,  Gloucester;  George  P. 
Tilton,  Newburyport;  Harold  S.  Walker,  Lynn;  Dr.  George  E. 
Waterman,  Boston;  Mrs.  G.  F.  Welsh,  Sec.  D.A.R.,  North  Scituate; 
Frank  H.  Whitmore,  Brockton  Pub.  Lib.,  Brockton;  Dr.  D.  M. 
Wilcox,  Lee;  Miss  Susan  Willard,  Hingham;  Miss  Mabel  L.  Wood- 
fall,  Rockport;  Miss  Emma  Woolley,  Pres.  Holyoke  Coll.,  Holyoke. 

RHODE  ISLAND.  Prof.  Charles  W.  Brown,  Brown  University, 
Providence;  Mrs.  F.  E.  Chadwick,  Vice-Pres.  Soc.  for  Pres.  of  N.E. 
Ant.,  Newport;  Caroline  Hazard,  Ex-pres.  Wellesley  Coll.,  Peace- 
dale;  Irving  W.  Patterson,  Chf.  Eng.,  State  Board  Pub.  Roads, 
Providence;  Mrs.  Henry  Wharton,  Saunderstown. 

CONNECTICUT.  Helen  B.  Alford,  Lib'n,  Shelton;  Elizabeth  M. 
Avery,  Groton;  Miss  Celeste  E.  Bush,  Sec.  East  Lyme  Hist.  Soc., 
Niantic;  Prof.  Guy  S.  Callender,  Yale  Univ.,  New  Haven;  Walter 
Camp,  Pres.  New  Haven  Clock  Co.,  New  Haven;  W.  S.  Chase,  Mil- 
ford;  Rev.  F.  S.  Child,  Historian,  Fairfield;  Miss  Elvira  C.  Clapp, 
East  Windsor;  George  L.  Clark,  author  "History  of  Connecticut," 
Wethersfield;  Charles  H.  Dilworth,  Sec.  Chamber  of  Commerce. 
Norwalk;  R.  H.  Fisk,  Stafford  Springs;  Abbot  Foster,  Litchfield; 
Miss  Jeannette  Gaylord,  Gaylordsville;  George  S.  Godard,  State  Lib.. 
Hartford;  John  Calvin  Goddard,  Sec.  Board  of  Trustees,  Hotchkiss 
School,  Lakeville;  Mrs.  Mary  Hoadley  Griswold,  Guilford;  Her- 
mann Hagedorn,  Poet,  Fairfield;  A.  B.  Hall,  Hotchkiss  School, 
Lakeville;  G.  E.  Hamlin,  Highway  Comm.,  Hartford;  Judge  Fred- 
erick A.  Hubbard,  author  of  "Other  Days  in  Greenwich,"  Green- 
wich; Dr.  Nelson  H.  Hume,  Canterbury  School,  New  Milford; 
John  Humphrey,  Sec.  Chamber  of  Commerce,  New  London;  N.  R. 
Jesup,  Sec.  Board  of  Trade,  Stamford;  Charles  E.  Julin,  Sec.  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce,  New  Haven;  Simon  Lake,  Pres.  The  Lake  Tor- 
pedo Boat  Co.,  Bridgeport;  Daniel  D.  Lovelace,  Exec.  Sec.  Chamber 
of  Commerce,  Danbury;  W.  B.  McCarthy,  Pres.  Rostand  Mfg.  Co., 
Milford;  Mrs.  Wm.  T.  Marsh,  Litchfield;  N.  W.  Munn,  New  Hart- 
ford; C.  G.  Nichols,  Chief  Clerk,  State  Highway  Comm.,  Hartford; 
Norris  Osburn,  editor  the  "Journal-Courier,"  New  Haven;  Mrs. 
Sarah  Ely  Parsons,  The  Ely  School,  Greenwich;  Miss  Theodate 
Pope,  Vice-Pres.  Soc.  for  Pres.  of  N.  E.  Ant.,  Farmington;  M.  D. 
Rudd,  Lakeville;  Henry  B.  Sargent,  Pres.  Sargent  &  Co.,  New 
Haven;  George  Seymour,  Lawyer,  New  Haven;  Rev.  S.  O.  Seymour, 
Litchfield;  W.  G.  Snow,  Adv.  Mgr.  International  Silver  Co.,  Meri- 
den;  Jonathan  Trumbull,  Otis  Lib.,  Norwich;  E.  M.  Warner,  Put- 
nam; Judge  George  M.  Woodruff,  Litchfield. 

NEW  YORK.  W.  W.  Baldwin,  Jr.,  Gen.  Pass.  Agt.,  N.Y.,  West- 
chester  &  Boston  Ry.  Co.,  New  York  City;  W.  E.  Collins,  New  York 
City;  Jay  Downer,  Eng.  &  Sec.  Bronx  Parkway  Comm.,  New  York 
City;  Albert  H.  Ely,  Jr.,  New  York  City;  Will  S.  Hadaway,  New 
Rochelle;  Irving  J.  Morris,  Sec.  State  Highway  Comm.,  Albany; 
Henry  R.  Towne,  Dir.  Yale  &  Towne  Mfg.  Co.,  New  York  City. 


NEW  ENGLAND  IN  THE  LARGE 

New  England  may  be  tucked  up  in  a  corner  of  the  United  States, 
but  it  has  been  the  cornerstone  of  the  nation,  veritably  "tin-  head- 
stone of  the  corner."  It  is  more  than  a  provincial  section,  more  than 
an  arbitrary  division  of  six  States,  more  than  a  body  of  tradition. 
New  England  has  always  been  an  influence,  a  force  that  continues 
to  make  itself  felt  throughout  the  country  and  beyond. 

The  New  England  settlers  were  pioneers  and  their  descendants 
have  never  ceased  pioneering.  The  expansion  of  New  England  has 
largely  made  the  West.  The  first  settlers  of  the  Northwest  Terri- 
tory and  Texas  were  New  Englanders.  It  is  New  England's  energy 
and  wealth,  her  capital  and  brains,  which  have  largely  developed 
the  resources  of  the  country. 

The  New  England  district  is  the  most  distinctly  marked  physio- 
graphic region  of  North  America.  Except  for  a  narrow  isthmus 
less  than  three  miles  wide  between  the  headwaters  of  the  Hudson 
and  Lake  George,  it  is  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  continent  by 
the  Champlain,  Hudson,  and  St.  Lawrence  valleys.  From  Albany 
to  New  York  only  one  bridge,  at  Poughkeepsie,  spans  the  river,  so 
that  an  invading  force  holding  the  Hudson  and  Champlain  valleys 
could  completely  isolate  New  England. 

Nature  thrust  New  England  out  into  the  ocean  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  Pilgrims  on  their  way  from  Holland  to  the  Delaware  were 
lured  to  a  landfall  by  the  beckoning  arm  of  Cape  Cod.  Storm-bat- 
tered and  fog-bound  in  the  harbor  of  Provincetown  they  entered 
into  the  famous  compact  in  which  the  wanderers  "do  solemnly 
and  mutually  in  the  presence  of  God  and  of  one  another  covenant 
and  combine  ourselves  together  into  a  civil  body  politic  for  our 
better  ordering  and  preservation."  And  so  the  character  and  his- 
tory of  New  England  was  determined.  The  Puritans  followed, 
"the  seed  sifted  from  a  whole  nation  for  this  planting."  So  it 
was  that  New  England  became  a  Puritan  land,  a  land  of  dis- 
senters, a  land  of  pioneers. 

From  the  first,  New  England  has  led  the  nation  in  education. 
She  had  the  first  Colonial  grammar  school,  the  first  college,  the 
first  free  elementary  school,  the  first  academy,  the  first  high  school, 
and  the  first  normal  school.  Today  New  England's  schools  and  col- 
leges are  still  first.  Her  teachers  have  been  educational  mission- 
aries. Even  in  Colonial  times  the  Connecticut  school  master  taught 
school  all  over  the  country. 

New  England  has  led  in  the  founding  of  the  nation's  educational 
institutions.  The  academies  and  colleges  in  the  Northwest  Terri- 
tory, Oberlin,  Knox,  and  Beloit,  were  established  by  New  England- 
ers. Millions  of  dollars  have  been  contributed  to  the  South  for 
the  support  of  Hampton,  Berea,  Fisk,  and  Tuskegee.  In  the  last 
half  of  the  nineteenth  century,  George  Peabody  of  Danvers,  John  F. 
Slater  of  Norwich,  and  Daniel  Hand  of  Guilford  gave  over  $5,000,000 

(21) 


22  NEW   ENGLAND    IN    THE    LARGE 


for  education  in  the  South.  Rockefeller  has  merely  followed  in 
their  footsteps.  New  England's  educational  influence  spreading 
beyond  the  nation's  borders  founded  the  Huguenot  Seminary  in 
South  Africa,  and  Robert  College  at  Constantinople,  which  has  been 
such  a  potent  influence  in  the  making  of  modern  Bulgaria.  Amer- 
ica's four  greatest  educators  of  the  nineteenth  century,  Horace  Mann, 
Henry  Barnard,  William  T.  Harris,  and  Charles  W.  Eliot,  were 
New  Englanders.  The  pioneers  in  woman's  education,  Emma 
Willard,  Mary  Lyon,  Sarah  Pierce,  Catherine  Beecher,  were  all  of 
New  England. 

During  the  first  three  quarters  of  the  nineteenth  century,  the 
number  of  distinguished  men  New  England  produced  was  out  of 
all  proportion  to  its  population.  Though  no  longer  in  the  same  rela- 
tive position,  New  England  is  still  in  the  ascendant  as  a  producer  of 
American  leaders.  Of  men  worthy  to  be  included  in  "Who's  Who" 
New  England  shows  the  largest  number  in  proportion  to  population, 
with  Vermont  first  for  the  States  and  Cambridge  for  the  cities. 
Scott  Nearing  in  his  "The  Younger  Generation  of  American  Genius," 
restricting  his  study  to  2000  born  since  1869,  finds  that  Cambridge 
has  47.5  to  the  100,000  population,  closely  followed  by  Nashville, 
Tenn.,  with  34.5;  Columbus,  O.,  with  26.5;  Lynn,  Mass.,  with 
24.8;  and  Washington,  D.C.,  with  20.2. 

The  population  of  New  England  according  to  the  1910  U.S.  Census 
was  6,552,681,  about  one  third  that  of  New  York  and  Pennsylvania 
combined.  40.3  per  cent  were  of  native  parentage,  31.7  per  cent  of 
foreign  parentage  and  28  per  cent  foreign-born,  or  nearly  60  per 
cent  were  of  foreign-born  parents.  With  7  per  cent  of  the  pop- 
ulation of  the  country,  New  England  contained  13.6  per  cent  of  the 
foreign-born,  25  per  cent  of  all  the  Irish,  16  per  cent  of  all  the  Greeks, 
and  30  per  cent  of  all  the  Turks. 

"Bleak  New  England"  is  a  phrase  that  has  been  parroted  from 
Puritan  times.  It  may  have  seemed  bleak  to  the  grim  Puritan  who 
toted  his  gun  to  the  meeting  house  and  suspected  a  tomahawking 
savage  hiding  behind  every  tree, — when  muttering  witches  rode  on 
restive  brooms,  or  swung  from  the  gallows.  But  to  any  sunny- 
minded  person  New  England  is  not  bleak,  was  not,  and  never  will 
be.  In  simple  and  varied  natural  beauty,  few  portions  of  the  Foot- 
stool can  compare  with  it. 

On  her  summer  climate  and  scenic  beauty  New  England  realizes 
heavily.  Together  they  are  responsible  for  the  tremendous  numbers 
of  summer  visitors,  resulting  in  a  summer  increase  in  the  population 
of  probably  25  per  cent.  Caring  for  summer  visitors  brings  New 
England  an  annual  income  of  over  $60,000,000, — greater  than  the 
annual  income  yield  of  Alaska's  gold  mines. 

The  whole  coast  from  the  Connecticut  shore  around  Cape  Cod, 
along  the  Massachusetts  and  Maine  coast  to  Mount  Desert,  is  one 
almost  continuous  summer  pleasure  ground  lined  with  cottages, 
residences,  estates,  and  hotels.  The  Litchfield  hills,  the  Berkshires, 
southern  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  the  upper  Connecticut  valley, 
the  White  Mountains,  have  innumerable  summer  colonies.  Alto- 
gether the  capital  invested  in  summer  homes  and  summer  resorts 
in  New  England  represents  hundreds  of  millions. 


NEW   ENGLAND    IN    THE    LARGE  23 

The  "barren  rocky  soil  of  New  England"  is  another  legend  that 
has  been  prevalent  since  the  first  perfervid  patriotic  orators  used 
it  to  magnify  the  virtues  and  sacrifices  of  the  Pilgrim  forefathers. 
The  conception  is  fundamentally  untrue.  Nowhere  on  the  face  of 
the  earth  are  there  richer  agricultural  lands  than  the  meadows  of 
the  Connecticut,  Farmington,  and  other  New  England  rivers. 
Nowhere  else  in  the  United  States  can  a  tobacco  crop  be  produced 
that  sells  for  $3.50  per  pound,  and  for  a  whole  State  averages  a  net 
yield  of  $300  an  acre. 

The  acreage  valuation  of  New  England's  farm  land  according  to 
the  1910  U.S.  Census  was  $24,  as  against  $95  in  Illinois  and  $82  in 
Iowa.  This  is  evidence  of  the  cheapness  of  the  land  rather  than  of 
its  low  worth  when  properly  cultivated.  Every  acre  of  improved 
farm  land  in  New  England  produces  annually  a  product  worth  $7 
more  than  a  similar  acre  in  Illinois  or  Iowa.  The  value  of  New 
England  farm  property  in  the  past  decade  has  increased  nearly  75 
per  cent  and  the  increase  will  continue. 

The  agricultural  crops  of  New  England  according  to  the  1910 
Census  were  worth  $141,000,000,  an  increase  of  48  per  cent  over  the 
previous  decade.  New  England  excelled  all  other  divisions  in  the 
United  States  in  the  average  yield  per  acre  of  corn,  wheat,  vege- 
tables, and  tobacco.  Dairying  is  the  largest  single  agricultural 
business  in  New  England.  There  are  probably  100,000  farmers 
producing  milk  for  sale  and  the  annual  value  of  dairy  products  is 
about  $50,000,000. 

The  "decadence  of  New  England,"  a  popular  fiction  a  decade  ago, 
was  based  largely  on  the  abandoned  farm.  Most  of  these  have  since 
been  snapped  up  and  made  over  into  summer  recuperating  places 
for  professional  and  business  men. 

New  England  has  been  the  nursery  of  American  literature,  art, 
and  music,  and  now  that  these  have  grown  to  man's  estate  they  still 
thrive  rather  better  on  their  native  soil  than  elsewhere. 

But  New  England  is  an  industrial  community.  The  output  of 
the  factories  far  exceeds  in  value  all  other  products.  Early  initiative, 
innate  inventiveness,  waterpower,  seaports,  and  an  abundant  sup- 
ply of  foreign  cheap  labor,  coupled  with  New  England  thrift  and 
capital  and  a  willingness  to  risk  it  on  any  paying  venture,  have  kept 
New  England  to  the  fore. 

The  textile  center  of  the  country,  its  cotton  and  woolen  mills  rep- 
resent an  investment  of  $630,000,000  with  an  annual  output  of 
$523,000,000.  New  England  makes  half  the  shoes  of  the  country 
and  is  the  leading  shoe  and  leather  center  of  the  world.  The  great- 
est jewelry  and  silverware  producing  center  is  in  New  England.  It 
is  the  home  of  paper-making. 

New  England  still  remains  'new';  still  has  great  potentialities, 
and  the  capital,  brains,  and  energy  to  realize  on  them. 


OLD  NEW  ENGLAND 
A  Geological  Interpretation  and  Retrospect 

Cut  off  by  the  Hudson,  Champlain,  and  St.  Lawrence  valleys,  the 
New  England  section  of  North  America  is  one  of  the  most  distinctly 
marked  of  all  the  many  geographic  regions  of  the  continent.  It 
presents  a  variety  and  detail  of  physical  features  paralleled  only 
in  northern  Europe.  This  peculiarly  varied  surface  of  New  England 
has  been  the  result  of  a  long  combination  of  geological  events. 

The  New  England  district  has  been  more  frequently  and  for  a 
longer  aggregate  time  above  the  level  of  the  sea  than  any  other  part 
of  the  region  south  of  the  Great  Lakes.  This  has  resulted  in  the 
erosion  of  the  unchanged  later  rocks,  thereby  exposing  the  deep- 
lying  metamorphic  and  crystalline  rocks.  The  topography  and  the 
consequent  diversified  areas  of  fertile  soil  have  nowhere  more  com- 
pletely controlled  the  history  of  a  region  than  in  New  England.  The 
site  of  the  earliest  settlements,  and  the  later  growth  of  industries 
and  centers  of  population,  have  been  determined  and  controlled 
in  the  most  intimate  way  by  the  geological  history. 

To  the  visitor  coming  to  New  England  from  the  Mohawk  valley 
of  central  New  York  where  the  rock  strata  lie  horizontal,  or  from 
the  Appalachian  region  of  Pennsylvania  where  there  is  a  distinct 
order  to  the  folded  strata  of  the  parallel  mountain  ridges,  the  varied 
scenery  of  New  England  presents  a  peculiar  charm.  Usually  seen 
from  the  limited  point  of  view  of  valley  or  lowland,  it  produces  an 
impression  of  tumbled  hills  and  rock  ridges,  of  lakes  and  rivers, — 
without  order  or  system.  Something  of  its  charm  lies  in  this  element 
of  the  unexpected.  But  there  is,  perhaps,  an  even  greater  satisfac- 
tion and  pleasure  to  be  gained  in  seeing  the  country  more  discern- 
ingly as  revealing  a  harmony  and  order  of  successive  events  through 
geologic  time  which  have  made  it  what  it  is. 

The  trained  eye  of  the  geologist  or  geographer,  looking  over  the 
landscape  of  New  England,  sees  it  with  a  vision  extending  back  into 
time  long  before  history  began.  The  sculptured  forms  of  the  hills 
and  valleys  speak  to  him  of  processes  that  have  been  going  on  through 
geologic  time.  From  this  point  of  view  no  one  can  intimately  know 
and  comprehend  New  England  whose  acquaintance  with  it  does  not 
extend  back  at  least  a  few  million  years.  It  is  worth  while  to  at- 
tempt to  see  New  England  through  such  long-vision  glasses. 

Standing  on  a  hilltop  almost  anywhere  in  New  England  on  a  clear 
day,  and  looking  around  at  the  horizon,  one  notices  that  the  high- 
level  surfaces  of  one  hill  after  another,  approach  the  plane  of  the 
circular  skyline.  It  requires  but  little  imagination  to  recognize 
in  the  successive  hilltops  the  remains  of  a  once  even  and  continuous 
surface  of  what  was  once  a  great  plain,  from  which  the  valleys  of 

(24) 


OLD  NEW  ENGLAND  '25 

today  have  been  carved  out  by  the  erosive  action  of  flowing  water. 
This  is  most  easily  recognized  from  a  considerable  elevation.  Es- 
pecially in  the  broad  upland  high  level  areas  of  western  Massachu- 
setts at  Whitcombs  Summit  on  the  Mohawk  Trail  is  this  apparent. 

Southern  New  England  is,  in  truth,  a  'dissected  upland,'  gently 
slanting  upward  from  sea  level  in  the  south  and  east,  and  rising,  in 
northwestern  Massachusetts,  to  elevations  of  several  thousand  feet. 

About  a  score  or  more  million  years  ago,  in  what  geologists  call 
the  Cretaceous  period,  all  of  southern  New  England  had  been  worn 
down  by  the  eon-long  erosion  of  water  and  atmosphere  until  it  was 
for  the  most  part  a  plain  almost  at  sea  level.  Geographers  call 
this  a  'peneplain,'  bearing  the  same  relation  to  a  plain  as  a  peninsula 
does  to  an  island. 

This  plain  was  not  worn  down  evenly,  because  the  rocky  mass  that 
goes  to  make  up  the  crust  of  this  region  of  the  earth  varies  greatly 
in  its  resistance.  Those  isolated  resistant  masses  of  hard  rock,  like 
the  Blue  Hills,  Mt.  Wachusett,  and  Mt.  Monadnock,  are  called  in 
general  by  the  modern  geographer  'monadnocks.'  South  of  the 
Blue  Hills  there  are  few  of  these  in  New  England.  Durfee  Hill 
in  north-central  Rhode  Island,  the  highest  in  that  State,  is  one  of 
these  monadnocks  which  must  be  looked  on  as  old  mountain  masses 
worn  down  to  mere  stumps.  The  Blue  Hills  have  probably  had 
removed  from  their  slopes  and  summits,  by  the  slow  action  of  the 
water,  thousands  of  feet  of  rock.  Mt.  Everett,  and  Greylock  in 
the  Berkshires,  the  White  Mountains,  Katahdin,  and  the  Green 
Mountain  peaks  are  remnants  of  mountains  once  Alpine-high. 

Since  that  time  this  land  has  been  tilted  until  in  the  region  of 
North  Adams  the  whole  area  has  been  elevated  a  couple  of  thousand 
feet,  and  as  this  tilting  went  on  new  valleys  have  been  worn  by  the 
water.  Those  of  western  New  England  are  deeper  because  as  the 
land  has  been  more  elevated,  the  rivers  have  cut  more  deeply.  Some 
of  these  trenched  valleys  are  quite  canyon-like.  The  Deerfield 
valley  is  already,  startling  as  it  may  seem,  one  fourth  as  deep  as  the 
Grand  Canyon.  The  Naugatuck  valley,  near  Waterbury,  is  a  narrow, 
trenched  valley  which  has  been  cut  to  a  depth  of  five  hundred  feet 
below  the  general  level  of  the  surrounding  country. 

The  breadth  of  these  valleys  has  been  determined  by  the  relative 
resistance  of  the  rocks  to  wear.  The  upper  portion  of  the  Housatonic 
valley  in  Massachusetts,  where  it  is  broad  and  generally  known  as 
the  Berkshire  valley,  lies  along  a  belt  of  weak  limestones  which  have 
wasted  away  under  the  erosive  action  of  the  weather  and  water. 
The  lower  Housatonic  in  western  Connecticut  cuts  through  a  region 
of  hard  crystalline  rocks  and  here  its  sides  are  steep  and  bold. 
Through  this  region  the  Housatonic  descends  five  hundred  and  sixty 
feet,  affording  waterpowers  which  recently  have  been  largely  utilized. 
The  valley  of  Millers  River,  which  enters  the  Connecticut  river  in 
northern  Massachusetts,  varies  in  width  as  it  crosses  belts  of  harder 
or  weaker  crystalline  rocks.  Between  Athol  and  Orange,  where  the 
rocks  are  weak,  the  valley  is  wide;  above  and  below  where  its  course 
is  through  harder  rocks,  it  has  been  able  to  wear  only  a  narrow  gorge. 

The  Connecticut  river,  from  its  source  to  northern  Massachusetts, 
flows  through  a  region  of  hard  crystalline  rocks  in  which  it  has  during 


26  OLD  NEW  ENGLAND 


millions  of  years  worn  a  long  narrow  valley.  From  northern  Massa- 
chusetts southward  to  the  Sound,  a  distance  of  ninety  miles,  the 
valley  is  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  miles  in  width.  This  increased 
breadth  is  not  due  to  the  greater  size  of  the  river  but  to  the  relative 
weakness  of  the  rocks  through  which  it  flows.  The  rocks  of  the 
Connecticut  Basin  are  unlike  those  of  any  other  portion  of  New 
England.  They  consist  of  sandstones  and  shales  of  a  reddish  or 
brown  color,  due  to  small  quantities  of  iron.  The  brown  sandstone, 
so  generally  utilized  some  decades  ago  for  the  house  fronts  of  respecta- 
bility in  both  New  York  and  Boston,  is  a  Connecticut  sandstone,  for 
the  most  part  quarried  at  Portland.  The  soils  of  the  lower  Con- 
necticut valley  have  a  prevailing  reddish  tinge  because  of  the  rocks 
from  which  they  have  been  formed. 

The  Connecticut  lowland  is  not  primarily  the  valley  of  the  Con- 
necticut river,  but  consists  of  the  wide  open  confluent  valleys  of  a 
number  of  streams  of  which  the  Connecticut  is  the  master.  The 
lowland  extends  southward  to  New  Haven,  but  the  river  at  Middle- 
town  turns  eastward  and  flows  through  a  narrow  valley  in  the  hard 
crystalline  rocks  of  the  eastern  upland,  entering  the  Sound  at  Say- 
brook.  Seen  from  the  margin  of  the  upland,  this  Connecticut 
lowland  appears  a  long,  deep  trough.  The  crystalline  highlands 
mark  the  level  at  which  the  peneplain  extended  across  the  valley. 

Originally  the  lowland  was  a  geosyncline  or  down-folding  of  rock 
strata  forming  a  trough  which  in  Mesozoic  time  became  filled  with 
strata  of  relatively  soft  sandstone  and  shale.  At  the  time  these 
sediments  were  accumulating,  the  lowland  was  a  great  lake  or 
estuary  and  on  its  broad  mud  flats  reptilians  of  the  time  have  left 
the  so-called  'bird  tracks'  so  numerous  at  Turners  Falls,  of  which 
there  is  a  most  extraordinary  collection  in  the  Amherst  College 
Museum.  These  softer  rocks  have  been  worn  away  by  water  action 
more  rapidly  than  the  harder  rocks  of  the  uplands  to  form  the  present 
broad  trough  of  the  Connecticut  valley  lowland. 

The  terraces  which  are  so  characteristic  along  the  Connecticut 
and  Merrimack  valleys  are  also  to  be  noted  in  the  valleys  of  all  the 
major  streams  of  New  England.  They  mark  remaining  portions  of 
successive  flood  plains  which  the  river  formed  as  the  result  of  changes 
in  the  level  of  the  land.  They  are  not,  as  Hitchcock  supposed  and 
as  is  still  popularly  believed,  due  in  any  considerable  measure  to 
glacial  action  in  the  Glacial  time,  but  are  the  result  of  oscillations  of 
the  land  level,  successive  subsidence  and  elevation. 

The  floor  of  the  Connecticut  valley  lowland  is  relatively  level, — 
a  peneplain  of  the  second  generation.  From  the  valley  floor  stand 
out  ridges  and  masses  of  hard  trap  rock  like  Mt.  Tom,  near  North- 
ampton, and  the  Hanging  Hills  of  Meriden.  All  of  them  are  steep- 
faced  to  the  westward.  They  are  fragments  of  faulted  and  tilted 
lava  sheets  which  were  formed  interstratified  with  the  beds  of  shale 
and  sandstone.  Mt.  Carmel,  north  of  New  Haven,  is  probably 
a  volcanic  'neck,'  the  stump  of  the  ancient  volcano  from  which  some 
of  these  lava  sheets  were  poured  forth.  Near  Meriden,  on  the  slope 
of  Lamentation  Mountain,  is  a  locality  known  as  the  'ash  bed' 
where  may  be  seen  the  volcanic  ash  of  one  of  these  eruptions,  now 
hardened  into  rock.  Imbedded  in  it  are  fragments  of  scorea  and 


OLD  NEW  ENGLAND  27 

'volcanic  bombs,'  rounded  masses  which  fell  into  the  ash  bed  in  a 
half-molten  form. 

There  were  three  successive  flows  of  lava  of  which  the  second  was 
the  greatest,  having  a  thickness  of  500  feet.  Its  uptilted  fragments 
form  the  highest  of  the  mountains  of  the  Connecticut  valley.  These 
sheets  of  volcanic  trap  are  interstratified  with  sheets  of  shale,  sand- 
stone, and  conglomerate,  evidence  that  between  the  periods  of  vol- 
canic action  there  was  subsidence  and  deposition. 

After  this  period  further  great  movements  in  the  earth's  crust 
resulted  in  the  fracturing  of  these  strata  of  lava  and  sandstone  and 
tilting  them  to  the  angle  at  which  they  now  lie.  The  softer  shales 
and  sandstones  were  worn  away  and  the  edges  of  the  lava  sheets  left 
in  high  relief  where  they  constitute  the  characteristic  ridges  and  hills 
of  the  Connecticut  valley  extending  from  East  and  West  Rocks  near 
New  Haven  northward  to  Mt.  Holyoke  and  Mt.  Tom. 

The  region  of  Narragansett  Bay  is  similar  to  the  Connecticut 
valley,  a  geosynclinal  down-folding  in  which  during  the  Carboniferous 
period  there  was  deposition.  These  Carboniferous  strata  extending 
up  into  Massachusetts  contain  some  fossils  and  in  Rhode  Island 
considerable  beds  of  coal  which  have  at  various  times  been  exploited 
but  have  proved  too  hard  to  be  of  actual  commercial  value. 

The  Boston  Basin  is  also  a  region  in  which  are  some  stratified  rocks 
still  more  ancient,  probably  chiefly  Cambrian.  Near  Weymouth 
at  Hayward's  Quarry  is  a  famous  locality  where  fossil  trilobites, 
relatives  of  our  modern  horseshoe  crabs,  have  been  found,  eighteen 
inches  in  length. 

The  Taconic  and  the  Green  Mountains  are  an  extension  of  the 
Appalachian  Mountain  system,  probably  formed  at  the  same  time. 
Their  folded  and  highly  metamorphosed  strata  are  probably  Silurian 
or  earlier.  The  upper  portion  of  the  Connecticut  valley  occupies 
a  syncline  in  the  metamorphosed  schists.  The  course  of  the  river, 
like  that  of  most  of  the  major  streams  in  New  England,  was  deter- 
mined at  the  close  of  the  Cretaceous  period.  .The  misconception 
which  popularly  exists  that  stream  courses  have  been  largely  de- 
veloped since  the  Glacial  time  is  quite  incorrect.  Even  the  minor 
stream  valleys  in  the  hard  crystallines  of  New  England  are  of  vastly 
greater  age. 

The  ice  sheet  which  covered  New  England  during  the  Glacial  time 
was  thick  enough  to  cover  hills  as  well  as  valleys.  In  eastern  Massa- 
chusetts it  certainly  was  2000  feet  thick  and  its  front  lay  out  in  the 
sea  at  least  fifty  miles  to  the  east  of  Boston.  In  the  successive  ad- 
vances and  retreat  of  the  edge  of  the  ice  sheet,  it  scraped  up  loose 
soil,  wore  down  rock  surfaces,  deepened  valleys,  transported  boulders, 
gravel  and  detritus,  and  left  the  country  mantled  with  a  sheet  of 
glacial  drift  or  till.  It  blocked  stream  courses  and  formed  the  many 
lakes  and  ponds  which  dot  New  England.  .  Along  its  southern 
boundary  it  left  great  ridges  of  detritus,  known  as  terminal  moraines. 

In  southern  New  England  there  are  three  distinct  terminal  moraines 
that  may  be  distinguished.  The  outer  one  lies  along  Nantucket, 
Marthas  Vineyard,  and  the  hills  of  Long  Island.  The  second  ex- 
tends along  Cape  Cod,  the  Elizabeth  Islands,  and  from  Point  Judith 
across  southern  Rhode  Island  and  Connecticut.  The  third  line 


28       •  OLD  NEW  ENGLAND 


stretches  from  the  Manomet  hills,  below.  Plymouth,  westward  to  the 
Hudson  river.  But  the  popular  view  that  Nantucket,  Marthas 
Vineyard,  and  Cape  Cod  are  formed  merely  from  such  glacial  de- 
tritus is  incorrect.  Professor  Shaler  first  showed  that  underlying 
these  glacial  deposits  there  are  strata  of  much  earlier  age,  and  at 
Gay  Head  on  Marthas  Vineyard  the  highly  colored  strata  which 
give  the  name  are  as  old  as  the  Cretaceous. 

Throughout  eastern  New  England,  from  Maine  to  Connecticut, 
are  characteristic  lenticular  hills,  known  as  drumlins.  These  were 
probably  formed  under  the  ice  sheet  where  it  met  with  impediment 
in  its  progress,  which  caused  it  to  deposit  its  detritus.  Such  drumlins 
are  especially  noted  at  Ipswich,  Groton,  Boston  Harbor,  and  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Pomfret.  Near  the  margin  of  the  ice  sheet  there 
were  formed  irregular  hills  of  washed  and  partially  stratified  drift 
known  as  kames.  The  cliffs  at  Scituate  are  of  this  formation. 
Long  ridges  extending  generally  north  to  south,  of  glacial  material 
without  stratification,  known  as  eskers,  are  found  from  Maine  to 
Massachusetts.  These  mark  the  course  of  sub-glacial  streams  in  the 
bed  of  which  detritus  washed  from  the  glacier  was  deposited. 

With  the  accompanying  table  it  may  be  possible  to  briefly  sum- 
marize what  has  happened  in  New  England  these  last  hundred  million 
years  or  so.  During  the  Paleozoic  period,  New  England  was  a  moun- 
tainous region  of  Alpine  heights.  About  the  Boston  Basin,  especiall}- 
at  Weymouth,  we  have  a  portion  of  its  shore  with  the  trilobites  that 
inhabited  its  mud  flats  still  preserved.  The  age-long  action  of  frost 
and  water  wore  away  the  mountains.  During  the  Carboniferous 
period  along  the  shores  of  Narragansett  Bay,  which  then  extended 
up  into  Massachusetts,  were  marshlands  where  grew  a  primitive 
vegetation  of  cycads  and  horsetails  from  which  were  formed  the 
coal  beds  of  Rhode  Island.  At  the  close  of  the  Paleozoic  that  great 
earth  contraction  which  formed  the  Appalachian  wrinkles  resulted  in 
the  Taconic  and  Green  Mountains. 

With  the  dawn  of  the  Mesozoic  there  were  down-foldings  of  the 
earth's  crust  forming  the  long  trough  of  the  present  Connecticut 
valley,  accompanied  by  the  uplift  of  neighboring  areas.  Sediments 
from  the  upland  accumulated  in  the  troughs.  A  somber  vegetation, 
devoid  of  flowers,  spread  over  the  lands.  Primitive  reptiles  and  in- 
sects developed.  On  the  mud  flats  of  the  Connecticut  valley  the 
dinosaur,  the  phytosaur,  and  the  aetosaur  left  their  tracks  as  they 
hopped  or  crawled.  Ninety-nine  species  of  these  reptilians  have 
been  made  out  in  these  deposits  which  accumulated  to  a  depth  of 
10,000  feet.  The  great  accumulation  of  deposit  washed  from  the 
surrounding  highlands  overloaded  the  earth's  crust  and  weakened 
it,  so  that  volcanoes  broke  forth  and  lava-flows  overspread  the  region. 
This  occurred  at  three  successive  intervals. 

At  the  close  of  the  Jurassic,  further  earth  movements  resulted  in 
the  fracture  and  tilting  of  these  interstratified  beds  of  lava  and  sand- 
stones. During  the  following  Cretaceous  period  these  irregularities 
were  worn  down  by  the  slow  action  of  the  elements  until  all  southern 
New  England  was  reduced  to  base  level,  forming  a  peneplain  from 
which  stood  up  monadnocks  of  the  harder,  more  resistant  rock.  After 
the  close  of  the  Cretaceous  period  further  earth  contractions  resulted 


OLD   NEW  ENGLAND 


in  the  tipping  or  tilting  of  this  plain,  bringing  the  level  in  western 
Massachusetts  to  an  altitude  of  2000  feet  above  sea  level.  In  the 
following  Tertiary  period,  mammals  first  made  their  appearance. 
The  drainage  from  the  higher  slopes  now  began  to  wear  out  the  deep 
river  valleys  as  they  are  today.  Not  only  the  Connecticut  and  the 
Housatonic,  but  the  smaller  streams  gradually  had  their  courses 
determined  for  all  time,  and  as  the  tilting  gradually  became  accented, 
wore  their  way  deeper  into  the  rock.  From  the  eastern  brink  of  the 
Mohawk  Trail,  if  one  looks  over  the  land,  the  level  of  the  Cretaceous 
peneplain  and  the  work  that  the  Deerfield  and  other  streams  have 
accomplished  since  are  apparent.  Through  this  time,  while  the 
valleys  were  being  carved  out,  the  mastodon  (see  Northboro)  and 
many  other  creatures  that  would  startle  one  to  encounter  today, 
roamed  over  New  England. 

In  this  glance  backward,  the  coming  of  the  ice  sheet  which  lasted 
perhaps  100,000  years  is  but  an  incident,  the  historic  period  of  man 
almost  negligible. 

A  TABULAR  VIEW 
Of  what  has  been  doing  in  New  England  in  the  Past  Million  Years. 

LENGTH  IN    GEOLOGIC  NAME       ANIMALS  OF       STRATIGRAFHIC  OROGENIC 

YEARS  OF  THE  ERA  THE  TIME         (What  was  made)  (What  made  it) 

30,000    PSYCHOZOIC  Man  Terraces,  Lakes,  Subsidence 

Human  Waterfalls,  Elevation 

Harbors  Subsidence 


Glacial 

Glacial  Deposits 

3,000,000 

CENOZOIC 

Mammals 

Tertiary 

Mastodons 

Gentle  inclined 

uplift 

Q,  OOO.OOO 

MESOZOIC 

Reptiles 

Course  of  N.E. 

rivers     deter- 

mined 

Cretaceous 

Dinosaurs 

Gay  Head  Strata 

All  N.E.  a  pene- 

plain 

Faulting 

Jurassic 

Volcanoes     and 

lava-flows   in 

Central  N.E. 

Triassic 

Conn.        Sand- 

Central lowland 

stone 

a  brackish  es- 

Metamorphism 

tuary 

36,OOO,OOO 

PALEOZOIC 

Taconic       Mts. 

Carboniferous 

Amphibians 

Narragansett 

formed 

Basin     rocks 

deposited 

Devonian 

Fishes 

Western  N.E.  a 

land  area 

Silurian 

Invertebrates 

Boston  Basin 

Western  N.E.  a 

Strata 

sea 

Cambrian 

Trilobites 

Housatonic 

Volcanoes  in 

limestone 

Eastern  N.E. 

land  area 

IOO,OOO,OOO 

PROTEROZOIC 

Primitive 

Formation  of 

Mountain- 

invertebrates 

crystalline  rocks   building  forces 

ARCHEOZOIC 

Protozoa 

form  N.E. 

Alps. 

THE  NEW  ENGLAND  CLIMATE 

New  England  has  as  glorious  a  climate  as  any  region  in  the  world. 
"What  is  so  rare  as  a  day  in  June"  was  of  course  written  of  the 
New  England  climate.  It  has  inspired  tributes  from  orators,  humor- 
ists, poets,  pessimists. 

One  of  the  famous  products  of  New  England  is  its  weather,  and 
it's  never  out  of  mind.  There  is  no  monotony  about  it.  It  is  a 
constant  stimulus,  not  only  to  conversation,  but  to  the  boundless 
energy  of  the  New  Englander.  It  keeps  the  thermometer  on  the 
jump.  The  mercury  has  more  ups  and  downs  than  Wall  Street. 
It  undergoes  more  vertical  vicissitudes  than  the  lifts  of  all  the  sky- 
scrapers. But  in  the  coldest  weather,  mere  mercury  hibernates  in 
the  bulb.  Then,  only  alcohol  stays  on  the  job.  Again,  on  a  summer 
day  Boston  thermometers  will  aspire  to  Chicago  levels  until  a  'sea- 
turn'  and  then  the  east  wind  sends  the  silver  thread  scuttling. 

The  New  England  climate  is  a  serious  matter.  It  has  an  economic 
value.  It  helps  the  Ice  Trust.  In  winter  the  rivers  and  ponds  are 
sawed  up  and  huge  sky-blue  hunks  stored  away  in  great  ice-houses 
which  have  a  curious  propensity  to  burn  down.  If  the  ice  does  not 
burn  up  it  later  tinkles  in  the  festive  cocktail,  freezes  well-flavored 
cream,  enriches  the  Trust,  and  provides  occupation  in  the  gentle 
art  of  trust-busting  for  young  U.S.  Assistant  District  Attorneys. 

The  summer  climate  of  seashore  and  mountains  with  a  little  ad- 
mixture of  view  and  garden  truck  is  marketed  to  an  ever-increasing 
horde  of  summer  boarders. 

There  used  to  be  a  course  at  Harvard  on  'Appreciation  of  the 
Weather  Report.'  Most  probably  it  is  still  running.  The  Univer- 
sity evidently  felt  that  the  callow  undergraduates  from  the  South  and 
West  needed  some  preparation  for  a  thorough  appreciation  of  the 
blessings  to  which  they  were  being  subjected. 

Halliday  Witherspoon  works  off  his  grouches  on  the  weather.  In 
one  of  his  fits  of  depression  he  wrote: — "Somebody  has  said  that  if 
America  had  been  discovered  on  the  west  coast  that  New  England 
would  still  be  a  howling  wilderness.  I  believe  it.  And  nobody  but 
the  Pilgrim  Fathers  would  have  stuck  as  it  was.  ...  So  it  happened 
that  the  'Mayflower'  brought  exactly  the  right  sort  of  people.  I 
figure  that  our  early  settlers  had  kind  of  soured  on  themselves  and 
maybe  rather  liked  New  England  weather  than  not." 

One  thing  is  certain:  the  stranger  meeting  New  England  weather 
for  the  first  time  will  be  sure  to  recognize  it:  it  cannot  be  mistaken 
for  anything  else. 

New  England  weather  is  like  a  fascinating  woman.  Its  very 
caprice  makes  it  fascinating.  Then  why  complain  about  it?  Re- 
member the  old  proverb, — "Talk  of  weather  is  the  discourse  of 
fools."  Yet  that  old  bear,  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson,  declared  that  when- 
ever two  Englishmen  met,  their  conversation  was  first  and  always 
on  the  weather. 


THE    FLORA  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 

The  trees  of  New  England  are  its  crowning  glory.  Stripped  of 
its  foliage,  the  country  would  be  bare  and  bleak  indeed.  To  fully 
appreciate  how  large  a  part  of  New  England  is  still  wooded  one 
should  journey  across  it  by  balloon  or  aeroplane,  and  yet  the  gen- 
erally accepted  view  that  before  the  coming  of  the  white  man  the 
whole  country  was  completely  mantled  with  primeval  forests  is 
incorrect.  There  were  stretches  of  open  meadows  along  the  river 
valleys,  and,  as  today,  great  expanses  of  salt  marsh  along  the  coast. 
Verazzano  in  1524  describes  in  the  Narragansett  Bay  region  "open 
plains  twenty-five  or  thirty  leagues  in  extent  entirely  free  from  trees." 

Each  portion  of  New  England  has  its  characteristic  trees.  Enter- 
ing from  the  south  or  west  the  transition  from  the  plant  growth  of 
New  York  and  the  Middle  States  will  be  gradual.  The  chestnut, 
an  especially  beautiful  tree  when  in  bloom,  is  predominant.  The 
chestnut  blight  which  is  spreading  from  Pennsylvania  northward 
into  New  England  is  working  havoc  with  the  chestnuts,  and  the 
forestry  experts  tell  us  that  they  will  soon  be  a  thing  of  the  past. 
The  commercial  loss  in  many  areas  is  heavy,  as  one  in  every  six 
of  our  timber  trees  is  a  chestnut. 

The  elm  is  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  and  characteristic  of  New 
England's  trees.  It  stands  like  a  sentinel  in  the  meadows  or  arches 
the  village  street  in  a  friendly  way.  In  the  rich  alluvial  soil  of 
the  Connecticut  valley  it  grows  to  prodigious  size.  The  famous 
old  elm  at  Wethersfield,  twenty-six  and  a  half  feet  in  girth,  is  perhaps 
the  largest. example  of  plant  growth  east  of  the  Rockies.  Numerous 
other  magnificent  examples  of  elms  have  attained  a  circumference 
of  twenty-five  feet  and  a  height  of  over  ninety.  The  American 
elm  in  New  England  presents  a  great  variety  of  forms.  There  are 
the  vase  and  the  wineglass  types.  The  vine  elm  has  its  slender 
trunk  clothed  in  its  own  delicate  foliage  as  with  a  vine.  Others 
take  on  the  manner  of  growth  of  apple  or  oak  trees.  The  elm, 
too,  has  its  enemies, — the  elm  leaf  beetle,  which  eats  the  leaves, 
and  the  leopard  moth,  which  bores  into  the  young  twigs.  New 
Haven,  'The  Elm  City,'  is  now  almost  devoid  of  elms,  as  is  the 
Harvard  Yard,  whose  beauty  was  due  to  its  arching  elms. 

New  England's  broad-girthed  oaks  are  more  like  the  English  tree 
than  those  elsewhere  in  this  country.  The  white  oak  is  the  noblest 
of  the  family.  The  Waverley  oaks  near  Boston  are  the  best  known 
group  of  these,  calculated  by  Professor  Shaler  to  be  a  hundred  years 
old.  Beaman's  oak,  at  Lancaster,  Mass.,  is  a  notable  specimen 
of  the  white  oak,  twenty-nine  feet  in  circumference,  and  in  the  same 
town  is  the  largest  red  oak  in  the  country,  sixteen  feet  in  girth. 

Although  by  no  means  exclusively  a  New  England  tree  the  maple 
is  one  of  the  principal  hardwood  growths,  and  the  sugar  maple  of  the 
upper  Connecticut  valley  yields  Vermont's  most  popular  product. 

(31) 


32  THE  FLORA  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 

Through  the  middle  belt  of  New  England  the  white  pine,  the 
most  beautiful  of  its  family,  grows  more  happily  than  elsewhere. 
Old  Timothy  D  wight,  who  missed  nothing,  wrote  a  century  ago: — 
"The  white  pine  is  the  noblest  forest  tree  in  New  England,  and 
probably  in  the  world.  .  .  .  The  sound  of  the  wind  in  a  grove  of 
white  pines  has  all  the  magnificence  which  attends  the  distant  roar 
of  the  ocean."  It  is  the  most  valuable  timber  tree  of  New  England 
and  many  a  farmer  has  found  the  growth  of  pine  in  a  neglected 
wood  lot  or  overgrown  pasture  the  means  of  raising  his  mortgage. 
It  is  a  tree  of  rapid  growth  and  well  repays  planting.  In  Massa- 
chusetts large  areas  have  been  planted  to  white  pine  by  the  State, 
by  corporations  and  individuals.  A  few  of  the  primeval  pines  with 
a  girth  of  upward  of  fifteen  feet  still  stand  at  Carlisle,  near  Boston, 
and  in  the  Pisgah  primeval  forest  in  southwestern  New  Hampshire. 

The  white  or  canoe  birch  generally  associated  with  the  white  pine 
is  a  tree  of  feminine  attractiveness  which  makes  a  strong  appeal 
to  the  eye  of  the  artist.  The  gray  birches  are  weaker  sisters,  growing 
farther  south  and  on  sterile  soil,  but  even  more  languishingly  graceful. 
The  yellow  birch  is  sturdier  and  less  interesting. 

Northern  New  England  is  a  region  of  spruce,  whence  comes  the 
wood  pulp  for  our  papers.  During  the  spring,  the  rivers  of  Maine 
and  the  Connecticut  are  clogged  with  huge  drives  of  spruce  logs. 
Along  the  Maine  coast  is  Sarah  Orne  Jewett's  "country  of  the 
pointed  firs."  On  the  drumlins  and  hills  along  the  shores  of  Massa- 
chusetts Bay,  the  savin,  or  red  cedar,  vigorously  points  its  spires. 

The  mountain  laurel,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  plants  of  the  Ameri- 
can flora,  grows  in  a  belt  across  the  middle  of  New  England.  For  a 
few  weeks  in  early  summer  it  makes  the  woods  indescribably  lovely 
with  its  clusters  of  pink  and  white  blossoms. 

The  Cape  has  its  own  characteristic  plant  life,  the  scrub  pine, 
the  Christmas  holly,  the  cranberry,  and  the  bayberry,  which  yields 
a  fragrant  wax  from  which  the  early  settlers  made  candles,  an  industry 
now  revived. 

The  arbutus  is  the  most-sought-for  flower  in  the  spring.  It  is 
New  England's  mayflower,  so  named  by  the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth, 
although  other  flowers  bear  that  name  in  other  States.  It  comes 
almost  before  the  snow  is  off  the  ground.  There  is  such  demand  in 
the  cities  for  its  fragrant  perfumed  bunches  that  the  Portuguese 
children  have  gathered  it  almost  to  extermination  in  some  localities. 
Weedier  and  shabbier  except  when  in  bloom,  the  blue-flowered  chic- 
ory abounds  chiefly  on  the  outskirts  of  Boston. 

Many  of  New  England's  most  familiar  shrubs  and  plants  are 
immigrants.  The  buckthorn,  the  English  hawthorn,  the  barberry, 
as  well  as  the  Black-eyed  Susans  and  the  ox-eye  daisies  which  dot 
the  meadows  with  blossoms,  and  the  hordes  of  weeds  that  grow  about 
our  yards  and  barnyards,  are  almost  all  European  in  origin. 


ABORIGINES  AND  SLAVERY 

The  Indians  of  New  England  have  been  so  long  gone  as  to  be  almost 
forgotten.  In  a  few  spots,  at  Gay  Head,  Mashpee,  Orono,  and 
Kingston,  some  descendants  of  mixed  blood  still  survive. 

When  in  1524  Verazzano,  one  of  the  first  European  visitors  to  the 
New  England  coast,  sailed  into  Narragansett  Bay,  some  twenty 
canoes  full  of  natives  greeted  him.  Delighted  with  their  reception 
he  stayed  there  a  fortnight,  making  excursions  into  the  interior. 
He  describes  their  houses  of  split  logs,  nicely  thatched,  the  abund- 
ance of  copper  ornaments,  and  well  cultivated  fields. 

The  happy  state  of  the  aborigines  pictured  by  Verazzano  did  not 
last.  Shortly  before  1600  the  fierce  Mohicans  from  the  Hudson 
river  fought  their  way  through  New  England,  subduing  and  levying 
tribute  upon  the  tribes.  Some  of  them,  under  the  name  of  Pequots, 
finally  settled  in  southeastern  Connecticut.  But  the  voyagers  coast- 
ing these  shores  in  the  ensuing  years  found  the  shores  of  the  bays  and 
estuaries  well  peopled.  Gosnold,  in  1602  cruising  along  the  coast 
of  Cape  Cod  and  Marthas  Vineyard,  has  much  to  say  of  the  natives, 
of  their  apparent  prosperity,  and  gives  a  full  and  circumstantial 
account  of  their  customs. 

When  Martin  Pring  in  1603  sailed  into  Plymouth  harbor,  the 
natives  were  numerous.  One  hundred  and  twenty  of  them  visited 
his  men  at  one  time.  Champlain,  in  1605  coasting  as  far  south  as 
Cape  Cod  Bay,  tells  of  the  natives  and  their  well-tilled  gardens  where 
they  grew  corn,  beans,  squashes,  pumpkins,  and  tobacco.  In  the 
following  ten  years  Weymouth,  Captain  John  Smith,  and  others  left 
records  of  cruises  along  the  New  England  coast.  They  all  speak  of 
the  abundant  native  life.  Weymouth  kidnapped  five  Indians  and 
carried  them  to  England.  Such  practices  made  the  Europeans  un- 
popular with  the  natives.  In  the  chronicles  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers 
we  read  of  the  Cape  Cod  Indians:  "These  people  are  ill  affected 
towards  the  English  by  reason  of  one  Hunt,  a  master  of  a  ship,  who 
deceived  the  people  and  got  them,  under  color  of  trucking  with 
them,  twenty  out  of  this  very  place  where  we  inhabit,  and  seven  men 
from  the  Nausites,  and  carried  them  away,  and  sold  them  for  slaves, 
like  a  wretched  man  (for  twenty  pound  a  man)  that  cares  not  what 
mischief  he  doth  for  his  profit." 

In  1617  a  frightful  pestilence  swept  over  New  England,  exterminat- 
ing half  the  natives.  This  was  measles  or  smallpox,  or  both,  proba- 
bly contracted  from  contact  with  the  English.  Eastern  Massachu- 
setts was  depopulated  so  that  when  the  Pilgrims  arrived  at  Plymouth, 
where  Pring  and  Champlain  had  found  a  numerous  population,  the 
few  timorous  natives  left  were  slow  in  making  an  appearance.  The 
old  Indian  fields,  cleared  and  fallow,  lay  ready  to  their  hands. 

The  Indians  taught  them  how  to  plant  their  corn  in  hills  and  fer- 
tilize with  fish.  Bradford  relates  that  in  April,  1621,  "They  began 

(33) 


34  ABORIGINES  AND   SLAVERY 

to  plant  their  corne,  in  which  service  Squanto  stood  them  in  great 
stead,  showing  ye  manner  how  to  set  it  and  after  how  to  dress  and 
tend  it.  And  he  tould  them,  excepte  they  got  fish  and  set  with  it 
(in  these  old  grounds)  it  would  come  to  nothing."  Thomas  Morton 
in  his  "New  England's  Canaan"  says, — "You  may  see  in  one  town- 
ship a  hundred  acres  together  set  with  fish,  every  acre  taking  1000  of 
them,  &  an  acre  thus  dressed  will  produce  and  yield  as  much  corn  as 
3  acres  without  fish."  From  the  Indians  they  learned  how  to  store 
their  corn  in  cribs  set  on  posts,  how  to  preserve  the  corn  on  the  cob 
by  braiding  the  husks,  how  to  braid  the  corn-husks  into  mats,  and 
how  to  pound  the  corn,  for  hominy,  in  a  mortar,  and  many  ways  of 
durably  staining  and  dyeing  fabrics. 

The  settlers  received  from  the  Indians  as  gifts  of  their  long  cultiva- 
tion, maize,  squashes,  pumpkins,  beans,  and  tobacco.  The  art  of 
maple  sugar  making  had  long  been  cultivated  by  the  Indians,  and 
an  account  of  their  methods  was  published  in  the  Transactions  of  the 
Royal  Society  as  early  as  1634.  The  Indians  taught  the  colonists 
how  to  make  the  brain-tanned  deerskins,  so  soft  and  flexible  for  gar- 
ments. They  learned  from  the  Indians  the  use  of  hot  steam  baths 
and  the  sweating  hut  in  illness.  But  the  good  Puritans  did  not  take 
so  kindly  to  such  rigorous  and  cleansing  methods  of  restoring  health 
as  they  did  to  the  Indian  'medicine  man's'  herbs.  The  Indian 
doctor  was  early  called  upon  by  the  settlers  for  medical  aid.  Lobelia, 
witch  hazel,  cascara,  Indian  hemp  were  all  derived  from  the  native 
New  England  Indian  materia  medica. 

Wampum,  the  medium  of  exchange  with  the  Indian  tribes,  soon  be- 
came the  common  currency  of  the  white  settlers.  Governor  Winslow 
speaks  of  it  as  "their  goulde."  When  he  sent  the  spoils  of  King 
Philip  to  the  King  of  England,  he  described  them  as  "being  his 
Crowne,  his  Gorge,  and  two  Belts  of  their  own  making  of  their  goulde 
or  silver."  Not  only  did  the  settlers  quickly  adopt  the  Indian  mode 
of  scouting  and  concealment  in  warfare,  usages  which  have  since 
become  so  widespread,  but  they  learned  from  them  methods  of  hunt- 
ing and  trapping. 

The  opportunities  for  profit  in  the  new  country  created  a  demand 
for  labor  difficult  to  meet.  The  New  England  Indian  was  a  creature 
of  the  wild;  the  Puritans  wanted  to  make  him  a  laborer.  Soon  the 
colonists  were  fining  and  imprisoning  the  natives  for  petty  mis- 
demeanors, and  utilizing  their  forced  labor.  Excuses  which  would 
not  meet  modern  criticism  were  deemed  sufficient  to  compel  them 
to  service.  In  1634  a  special  grant  of  one  Indian  was  made  to 
Winthrop  and  another  to  his  son.  In  1637  Hugh  Peter,  hearing  of 
dividends  of  women  and  children  from  the  captives  of  the  Pequot 
War,  wrote  to  John  Winthrop,  Jr.,  that  he  would  like  "a  young 
woman  or  girl  or  boy,  if  you  think  good.  Also  some  boys  for  Ber- 
mudas." These  latter  of  course  were  merely  so  much  merchandise 
to  be  sold  for  profit. 

The  New  England  Indians  continued  to  be  enslaved  until  the 
eighteenth  century,  or  as  long  as  the  local  tribes  lasted.  As  the 
supply  failed,  Indians  were  imported  from  the  Carolinas  and  they 
in  turn  were  later  supplanted  by  negroes.  Though  the  records  show 
a  negro  boy  in  Hartford  as  early  as  1639,  importation  of  negroes  on  a 


ABORIGINES  AND   SLAVERY  35 

large  scale  did  not  begin  until  toward  the  end  of  the  seventeenth 
century.  In  1696  the  brigantine  "Sea  Flower"  of  Boston,  Thomas 
Winsor,  master,  imported  from  Africa  to  Rhode  Island  forty-seven 
negroes.  Fourteen  were  there  sold  at  thirty  pounds  per  head,  and 
the  rest  he  carried  by  land  "to  Boston  where  their  owners  lived." 
Thereafter  the  rum  and  'nigger'  traffic  of  Rhode  Island  prospered. 

Governor  Hopkins  stated  that  for  thirty  years  prior  to  1764 
Rhode  Island  annually  sent  eighteen  vessels  carrying  rum  to  the 
slave  coast.  The  trade  was  so  profitable  that  Boston  and  Salem 
merchants  naturally  engaged  in  it,  and  many  respectable  names  both 
in  history  and  in  present  day  affairs  owed  their  rise  to  prominence 
to  the  fortunes  so  acquired. 

Boston  was  a  considerable  mart  for  negroes.  In  the  "Boston 
News  Letter"  of  1736  were  advertised  "just  imported  from  Guinea 
a  parcel  of  likely  young  negro  boys  and  girls."  In  1762  were  ad- 
vertised a  "number  of  prime  Goree  and  Senegal  slaves."  A  writer 
in  the  "Boston  News  Letter"  in  1769  claimed  that  "upon  examining 
the  imports  of  negroes,  23.743  were  brought  into  this  province" 
during  the  decade  from  1756  to  1766. 

New  England  thrift  swelled  the  profits  of  the  trade.  We  see  an 
example  of  it  in  the  crafty  instructions  of  Captain  Simeon  Potter  of 
Bristol  to  his  supercargo  as  to  the  African  trade: — "Worter  ye  Rum 
as  much  as  possible  and  sell  as  much  by  the  short  mesuer  as  you 
can."  'The  Cradle  of  Liberty'  was  in  part  built  from  profits  of  the 
slave  trade  which  Peter  Faneuil  pursued  successfully  if  not  too 
scrupulously.  The  vessels  engaged  in  the  trade  were  mostly  of  small 
tonnage, — one  hundred  tons  and  less.  The  space  allowed  the 
negroes  during  the  voyage  was  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  wide  and 
three  feet,  nine  inches  high. 

All  classes  entered  into  the  trade.  A  respectable  elder  whose 
ventures  had  proved  successful  returned  thanks  on  Sunday  "that 
an  overruling  Providence  had  been  pleased  to  bring  to  this  land  of 
freedom  another  cargo  of  benighted  heathen,  to  enjoy  the  blessing 
of  a  Gospel  dispensation."  The  Rev.  Ezra  Stiles,  later  President 
of  Yale  College,  and  one  of  the  first  vigorous  advocates  of  emancipa- 
tion, in  his  early  days  "sent  a  barrel  of  rum  to  Africa  to  be  exchanged 
for  a  negro  slave,"  claiming  "it  is  a  great  privilege  for  the  poor 
negroes  to  be  taken  from  the  ignorant  and  wicked  people  of  Guiney 
and  placed  in  a  Christian  land." 

Slavery  flourished  in  portions  of  New  England  up  to  the  time  of 
the  Revolution  and  continued  to  exist  for  half  a  century  more.  In 
1756  there  were  3636  slaves,  one  to  every  thirty-five  whites.  In 
1774  the  number  had  been  doubled, — one  to  every  twenty-nine 
whites.  As  late  as  1800  there  were  4330  slaves  in  New  England.  In 
1774  the  Connecticut  "Gazetteer  "carried  the  following  advertisement : 

"TEN  DOLLARS  REWARD.  Run  away  from  the  subscriber  in  Can- 
terbury, a  Mulatto  slave.  He  is  a  slender  built  fellow,  has  thick  Lips, 
a  curled  mulatto  Head  of  Hair  uncut,  and  goes  stooping  forward." 

Not  until  1848,  when  slavery  had  proved  so  unprofitable  that 
there  were  but  six  slaves  left  in  the  State,  did  Connecticut  pass  an 
act  of  emancipation. 


THE  NEW  ENGLANDER 

The  stranger  to  New  England  will  naturally  be  desirous  to  see 
and  study  the  '  typical  New  Englander,'  for  the  reputation  of  that 
interesting  character  has  gone  all  over  the  land.  He  will  have 
heard  sung  the  praises  of  the  New  Englander, — his  character,  his 
conscience,  and  his  God.  But  as  the  type,  though  perhaps  not  so 
rare  as  the  Simon-pure  Yankee  dialect  o£  the  "Biglow  Papers,"  may 
be  difficult  to  discover  and  identify,  a  few  '  pointers '  may  not  be 
amiss. 

The  New  England  character  has  been  the  theme  of  orators  and 
essayists.  Dr.  Holmes  himself,  High  Priest  of  Bostonian  Brahmins, 
ascribed  it  to  a  diet  of  codfish  and  the  influence  of  the  east  wind. 
The  same  stock  which  the  New  England  climate  and  diet  has  tough-, 
ened  to  make  the  New  Englander,  has  in  the  enervating  shelter  of 
the  Blue  Ridge  degenerated  into  the  poor  white  'cracker'  of  the 
southern  mountains. 

Who  has  not  heard  of  the  New  England  conscience?  It  has  been 
even  more  exploited  and  advertised  than  Cotuit  oysters  or  Duxbury 
clams.  It  is  a  matter  of  pride,  an  assumption  of  superior  moral 
standards, — perhaps  an  atavistic  survival  of  the  Puritan  joy  of  mar- 
tyrdom and  love  of  'mortifying  the  flesh.' 

Providence  is  the  strong  support  of  the  New  Englander, — his 
Hope,  his  Faith,  in  ages  past.  However  nefarious  the  scheme,  it 
is  for  the  special  protection  of  Providence  he  prays.  A  capital  city 
has  been  named  in  gratitude  to  this  local  god. 

New  England  thrift,  which  flourishes  so  prodigally  in  this  climate, 
proves  less  thrifty  when  transplanted  to  more  generous  climes.  It 
is  in  part  a  pinching  of  the  penny  in  hand  and  in  part  seeing  two 
pennies  where  there  was  but  one  before.  "Take  care  of  the  pence," 
said  Ben  Franklin,  "and  the  pounds  will  take  care  of  themselves." 
New  England  thrift  has  not  changed  from  the  time  of  the  wooden 
nutmeg  and  the  sawdust  ham.  The  New  England  farmer  has  not 
changed  his  spots  although  he  has  learned  to  take  summer  boarders 
and  swap  horses  for  second-hand  Fords. 

The  New  Englander  is  an  individualist;  in  his  vigorous  virility, 
a  Radical.  The  first  New  Englanders  became  New  Englanders 
because  they  were  insurgents  and  couldn't  get  along  comfortably 
in  old  England.  In  his  pride  of  descent,  after  some  generations  of 
prosperity,  the  New  Englander  stiffens  into  a  Conservative,  devel- 
oping a  hard,  calcareous,  and  spiny  shell,  as  does  the  crab  after 
molting. 

An  individualist  in  religion,  the  New  Englander  lias  evolved 
Congregationalism,  Unitarianism,  Christian  Science,  the  Holy 
Ghost  and  Us  Society,  and  a  host  of  other  heterogeneous  heterodoxies 
which  once  established  have  a  tendency  to  develop  through  insti- 
tutionalism  to  'stand-patism.' 

(36) 


THE  NEW  ENGLANDER  37 

Matthew  Arnold  described  the  life  of  New  England  as  "unfeeling," 
but  what  did  he  mean  by  that,  and  how  could  he  tell?  He  also 
asserted  that  there  was  nothing  picturesque  in  this  part  of  America, 
both  of  which  remarks  give  little  evidence  of  "sweetness  and  light." 

The  New  Englanders  have  been  considered,  however,  by  other 
Americans  and  by  Europeans,  too,  as  provincial, — an  aspersion 
they  are  inclined  to  resent. 

New  England  is  not  to  blame  for  all  its  characteristics.  Some  of 
them  are  a  heritage.  The  New  England  breakfast  of  apple  pie  and 
cheese  is  native  to  Norfolk  and  Suffolk  Counties  in  old  England,  as 
is  also  the  Maine  dialect  pronunciation  "ro-ad"  and  "stun"  (stone). 
When  some  one  remonstrated  with  Emerson  for  living  in  what  has 
been  called  the  pie-belt  and  following  its  custom,  he  opened  his  blue 
eyes  in  wonder  and  exclaimed,  "Why,  what  is  pie  for  if  not  to  eat?" 

An  enthusiastic  Middle  Western  school  master,  writing  home  of 
his  first  trip  to  Boston,  said  he  could  feel  the  literary  atmosphere  the 
moment  he  stepped  off  the  train  at  the  Back  Bay  Station.  The 
Bostonian  would  probably  have  noted  only  that  the  atmosphere 
was  chill  and  smoky.  Much  of  this  sort  of  thing  passes  for  'liter- 
ary atmosphere.'  Throughout  the  country  Boston  is  best  known 
for  its  baked  beans,  as  is  Vermont  for  its  maple  sugar  or  the  South 
for  its  beaten  biscuit. 

As  for  the  accusation  that  the  New  Englander  exploits  a  line  of 
goods  known  as  'culture,' — that  is  to  confuse  New  England  with 
Cambridge,  Mass.,  or  New  Haven,  Conn;  which  is  again  to  confuse 
those  towns  with  Harvard  and  Yale  Colleges;  which  is  again  to 
confuse  the  majority  of  their  students  with  a  small  minority. 

New  England  is  a  manufacturing  community  with  a  large  foreign 
population.  Cambridge  and  New  Haven  are  industrial  towns 
whose  factory  populace  crave  no  more  in  the  'movies'  than  the 
people  of  any  town  in  the  Middle  West. 

To  know  the  New  Englander  of  today,  one  must  know  Fall  River 
as  well  as  Boston, — the  Finnish  community  of  Fitchburg  as  well  as 
the  old  families  of  Salem, — Jew  as  well  as  Gentile, — politician  as 
well  as  Puritan.  One  can't  sense  New  England  as  a  whole  in  a  Back 
Bay  drawing-room  or  get  its  local  flavor  from  the  windows  of  a  railway 
train. 

Once  a  New  Englander,  always  a  New  Englander.  Even  travel 
abroad  or  residence  elsewhere  may  modify  his  austerity  or  stimulate 
his  imagination  but  never  radically  alter  his  spirit.  Though  a 
generation  transplanted,  still  he  remains  a  New  Englander  in  spirit. 
He  sojourns  in  Europe,  in  the  West,  in  California,  in  more  salubrious 
climes,  but  in  due  time  the  yearning  for  her  rock-ribbed  hills  and 
dales  brings  him  home.  New  England  has  thousands  of  citizens 
today  who,  having  either  made  or  failed  to  make  their  fortunes  in 
the  West  or  elsewhere,  have  returned  to  dwell  in  their  New  England 
home  village. 


THE  LANGUAGE  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 

If  you  study  a  map  of  New  England  you  will  see  that  the  names  of 
the  towns,  the  counties,  and  the  political  divisions  generally,  the 
States  only  excepted,  are  English.  The  early  settlers,  remembering 
their  homeland,  plastered  New  England  with  the  names  of  places 
from  which  they  had  emigrated. 

Thoreau  in  his  "Week  on  the  Concord"  writes:  "The  white  man 
comes  with  a  list  of  ancient  Saxon,  Norman,  and  Celtic  names  and 
strews  them  up  and  down  this  river, — Framingham,  Sudbury, 
Bedford,  Carlisle,  Billerica,  Chelmsford, — and  this  is  new  Angle- 
land,  and  these  are  the  West  Saxons,  whom  the  red  men  call,  not 
Angle-ish  or  English,  but  Yengeese,  and  so  at  last  they  are  known 
for  Yankees." 

So  we  find  the  Roman  castra, — Colchester,  Worcester,  Lancaster, 
Gloucester,  Dorchester,  Manchester;  the  English  counties, — Essex, 
Kent,  Derby,  Norfolk,  Suffolk,  Hampshire,  Berkshire,  Somerset. 

The  map  of  New  England  brings  to  mind  grand  old  English 
cathedrals, — York,  Winchester,  Wells,  Salisbury,  Peterborough;  de- 
lightful little  hamlets, — Wilton,  Lyme,  Newport,  Woodstock,  Bolton. 
Biblical  names — Goshen,  Canaan,  Rehoboth,  Bethlehem,  and 
Lebanon — are  frequent.  Providence  and  Concord  remind  us  of 
Puritan  thought.  Winthrop  and  Brewster  perpetuate  the  names  of 
Puritan  leaders. 

In  the  State  of  Maine  one  finds  the  most  incongruous  agglomera- 
tion of  European  place  names.  In  strange  proximity  lie  Denmark, 
China,  Paris,  Naples,  and  Peru.  Some  of  the  towns  that  sprang  up 
later  were  named  for  English  statesmen  popular  in  America, — as 
Walpole,  Barre,  Pittsfield,  and  Sunderland.  A  few  town  names  have 
only  local  significance, — Fairfield,  Springfield,  Middleboro.  Only  a 
few  retain  the  Indian  names,  as  Kittery,  Ogunquit,  Norridgewock, 
and  Scituate. 

The  names  of  the  States  show  great  variety  of  origin.  Two  are 
Indian,  one  is  Latin,  another  good  old  English,  still  another  probably 
a  corruption  of  the  Dutch,  and  the  sixth  is  French  or  what  you  please. 

The  natural  features,  on  the  other  hand,  the  rivers, — Connecticut, 
Merrimack,  Housatonic,  Kennebec;  the  mountains, — Monadnock, 
Wachusett,  Hoosac,  Taconic;  the  bays, — Casco,  Passamaquoddy, 
Penobscot;  the  lakes, — Winnepesaukee,  Asquam,  Waramaug,  Moose- 
lookmeguntic,  Molechunkemunk,  Chaubunagoungamaug, — are  all 
the  original  Indian  names. 

Old  English  geographic  terms  survive  locally.  On  the  southern 
coast  of  Massachusetts,  in  the  region  of  Vineyard  Sound,  every 
channel  between  islands,  or  an  island  and  the  mainland,  through 
which  the  tide  rushes  is  called  a  'hole,' — Woods  Hole,  Robinsons 
Hole.  On  the  eastern  coast  of  Massachusetts  a  similar  channel  is 
called  a  'gut,'  as  Hull  Gut  and  Shirley  Gut.  Farther  north,  on  the 

(38) 


THE  LANGUAGE  OF  NEW  ENGLAND         39 

coast  of  Maine,  the  term  similarly  used  is  'thoroughfare,'  or  'reach,' 
as  Eggemoggin  Reach. 

The  word  'gulf  in  the  Miltonian  sense,  as  applied  to  an  'aweful 
chasm,'  a  deep,  rocky  valley,  survives  on  the  map  in  Vermont,  the 
only  place  where  it  is  known  today, — Williamstown  Gulf,  Otta- 
quechee  Gulf.  The  native  Vermonters  speak  colloquially  of  such  as 
a  'gulch,'  but  when  interrogated,  self-consciously  correct  themselves 
to  'gulf.'  In  the  California  of  the  'forty-niners,'  'gulch'  appears  as 
a  geographic  term  on  the  map,  and  is  perpetuated  in  literature  by 
Bret  Harte's  tale  of  Dead  Man's  Gulch. 

'Branch,'  as  applied  to  a  tributary  of  a  river,  is  a  good  old  English 
term,  surviving  generally  in  the  southern  States.  In  New  England 
it  is  to  be  found  only  in  parts  of  Vermont  and  Maine.  Similarly,  the 
term  'run'  for  a  small  stream  that  dries  up  in  summer  survives  in 
only  one  locality  in  New  England.  George  Herbert  Palmer  in  writ- 
ing of  Boxford,  Mass.,  says:  "Our  largest  current  is  the  Topsfield 
river;  in  the  second  grade  of  things  that  flow  we  put  our  many 
brooks;  and  that  which  runs  swiftly  a  part  of  the  year,  and  shows  a 
dry  bed  for  the  remainder,  we  fittingly  call  a  'run.'  I  do  not  know 
if  the  word  occurs  elsewhere  between  us  and  Bull  Run." 

All  the  'brooks'  of  America  are  in  New  England.  To  quote 
Professor  Palmer  again:  "West  of  New  York  everything  that  runs 
is  called  a  'creek.'  Brook,  as  a  spoken  word,  is  gone — the  most 
regrettable  loss  the  English  language  has  suffered  in  America.  With 
us  a  creek  does  not  run,  but  is  a  crack  or  inlet  of  the  sea." 

The  beautiful  term  'intervale,'  as  applied  to  the  meadowed  floor 
of  a  mountain  valley,  is  used  in  northern  New  England  and  particu- 
larly along  the  upper  Saco  river  in  the  southern  White  Mountains. 
There  it  also  gives  its  descriptive  name  to  a  specific  locality  famed 
as  a  summer  resort. 

Not  only  have  the  Indian  place  names  for  the  natural  features 
generally  survived  in  New  England,  but  the  New  England  Indian 
names  of  many  animals  and  plants  new  to  the  settlers  have  been 
adopted  into  the  English  language.  Some  of  the  most  characteristic 
are  skunk,  chipmunk,  woodchuck,  squash,  cascara.  Succotash, 
mugwump,  moccasin  are  also  Indian.  Many  expressions  adopted 
by  the  early  settlers  are  of  similar  origin, — Indian  file,  Indian  sum- 
mer, Indian  corn,  .'to  bury  the  hatchet,'  'the  happy  hunting 
grounds.' 

Colloquial  New  England  speech  shows  many  characteristic  sur- 
vivals of  Elizabethan  usage.  New  England  not  only  has  its  char- 
acteristic dialectical  peculiarities,  but  many  local  varieties.  Some 
of  these  show  traces  of  the  dialect  of  those  English  counties  from 
which  the  settlers  came,  which  in  turn  can  be  traced  back  to  Danish, 
Saxon,  or  Norman  sources. 

The  summer  boarder,  the  telephone,  and  the  schools  are  fast  elimi- 
nating these  local  colloquialisms.  The  dialect  of  "The  Biglow 
Papers"  is  now  difficult  to  localize;  yet  rural  research  will  reveal 
many  delectable  bits.  The  old  lady  who,  on  being  asked  if  she  were 
going  to  a  village  entertainment,  replied,  "No,  I  don't  never  go  to 
no  such  places,"  was  using  the  Elizabethan  double  negative  in  a  way 
perhaps  not  peculiar  to  New  England,  but  you  are  certain  she  meant 
what  she  said. 


THE  NEW  ENGLAND  VILLAGE 

In  strongest  contrast  to  the  rush  of  modern  American  life  is  the 
peace  of  the  oldtime  New  England  village.  In  its  perfection,  un- 
sullied by  modern  industrial  life,  it  is  about  the  most  beautiful  thing 
New  England  has  to  present.  A  century  ago  President  D wight  of 
Yale  wrote:  "A  succession  of  New  England  villages,  composed  of 
neat  houses,  surrounding  neat  school  houses  and  churches,  adorned 
with  gardens,  meadows,  and  orchards,  and  exhibiting  the  universally 
easy  circumstances  of  the  inhabitants,  is,  at  least  in  my  opinion,  one 
of  the  most  delightful  prospects  which  this  world  can  afford." 

The  New  England  village  with  unaccountable  spontaneity  achieves 
a  unique  charm  unlike  anything  to  be  seen  in  other  parts.  They 
have  always  something  in  common,  and  yet  the  types  are  most 
diverse.  They  take  form  naturally  from  the  topography, — nestling 
in  a  valley,  or  standing  placidly  on  a  plain,  or  boldly  on  a  breezy 
hilltop,  or  cuddling  about  the  margin  of  a  salt-water  cove. 

The  late  Frederick  Law  Olmsted  ascribed  their  beauty  to  the  fact 
that  there  was  "one  consistent  expression  of  character,  and  that 
character,  simple,  unsophisticated,  respectable.  What  was  the 
ancient  beauty  of  an  American  village,  with  its  bare,  bleak,  cheap 
utilitarian  structures,  its  cramped  dooryards,  its  meagre  and  com- 
mon ornaments,  its  fences  and  straight-lacedness?  "  The  answer 
Mr.  Olmsted  finds  in  the  perfect  adaptation  to  conditions  such  as 
was  exhibited  by  the  Clipper  Ship.  "By  far  the  highest  and  choic- 
est beauty,"  says  Mr.  Olmsted,  "is  that  of  inherent  and  compre- 
hensive character  and  qualities,  and  whatever  of  decoration  hides 
this,  or  withholds  attention  from  it,  however  beautiful  in  itself,  is 
in  itself  a  blemish." 

The  earliest  New  England  towns  did  not  grow  from  villages,  but 
began  definitely  as  trade  centers  with  urban  intentions.  Both  town 
and  village  in  some  instances  came  into  being  at  the  start,  the  town 
indeed  taking  precedence.  Salem  had  its  Salem  Village,  the  scene 
of  the  witchcraft,  now  known  as  the  town  of  Danvers.  Lynn  had  its 
Lynn  Village,  now  Lynnfield.  Charlestown  Village  is  now  Woburn. 
All  these  villages  were  some  miles  from  the  parent  town,  but  included 
in  the  township.  The  name  "village"  was  also  applied  to  the  chief 
center  of  population.  In  rural  communities  they  still  speak  of 
'going  to  the  village.'  The  name  survives  as  a  permanent  desig- 
nation in  the  case  of  Brookline  Village,  which  originally  was  known 
as  Muddy  River  Hamlet. 

The  seaport  towns  in  the  early  days  served  their  immediate  hinter- 
land. The  sea  was  the  source  of  wealth,  and  every  seaport  had  its 
fisheries  and  a  share  in  the  West  India  trade.  It  was  due  to  the  limi- 
tations of  land  transportation  that  Salem,  Newburyport,  Ports- 
mouth, and  Portland  long  remained  nearly  equal  in  population  and 
trade;  and  well  into  the  nineteenth  century  the  three  largest  towns 


THE  NEW  ENGLAND  VILLAGE  41 

of  Massachusetts  were  Boston,  Salem,  and  Nantucket.  The  latter, 
remote  on  its  island,  was  as  urban  in  type  as.  Salem. 

New  England  villages  were  generally  laid  out  on  a  definite  plan 
at  the  time  of  their  first  settlement.  The  Connecticut  valley  type 
had  as  a  distinctive  feature  a  broad,  central  street.  Deerfield  is 
a  surpassingly  fine  example  of  the  one-street  type  of  village.  Some- 
times in  Connecticut  towns  this  street  was  so  broad  as  to  be  the  town 
common.  This  is  true  also  of  Lynn,  where  the  ancient  common  is 
simply  a  broad,  main  thoroughfare  with  a  central  space  of  grass  and 
trees  between  the  two  roadways.  But  every  town  had  its  village 
common  or  green,  which  in  later  development  has  become  the  civic 
center.  Lexington  with  its  ancient  village  green  is  an  excellent 
example.  The  Green  early  became  the  center  of  community  life. 
Here  one  of  the  first  duties  of  the  authorities  was  always  to  erect 
a  whipping  post.  Later  came  the  meeting  house,  the  jail,  and  the 
school  house,  and  the  ordinary,  or  inn.  Here  the  townsmen  gathered 
in  meeting  house  or  town  hall  to  discuss  public  matters  and  exercise 
the  right  to  vote.  Here  the  train  band  and  militia  were  drilled,  the 
regulation  days  being  festive  occasions  drawing  people  together  for 
gossip  and  trade. 

The  early  Colonial  meeting  house  facing  the  village  green  was 
well  named.  It  was  not  merely  a  place  of  worship.  It  was  the 
communal  meeting  place,  the  Court  of  Justice,  the  civic  center. 
Here  at  least  annually  met  all  the  citizens,  rich  and  poor,  to  discuss 
questions  of  town  administration  and  to  elect  the  numerous  town 
officers. 

The  town  clerk  in  New  England  was  a  village  worthy  of  an  impor- 
tance not  quite  understood  in  the  other  States.  The  pound-keeper 
protected  the  townsmen's  fields  from  stray  cattle.  The  chimney- 
viewer  was  the  primitive  fire-marshal,  for  chimneys  catching  fire 
were  likely  to  ignite  the  thatch  of  adjacent  houses.  To  look  after 
other  important  interests,  there  were  fence-viewers,  deer-reeves, 
and  hog-reeves.  Where  the  town  meeting  has  survived  in  modern 
days,  it  is  not  unusual  as  the  annual  joke  to  elect  to  this  latter  office 
some  officious  citizen.  The  town  bull,  too,  was  not  the  least  valued 
of  the  community's  institutions. 

The  early  New  England  town  was  not  a  mere  place  of  abode  nor 
a  collection  of  ordinances.  The  freemen,  each  with  his  obligation 
to  the  community,  to  his  church,  formed  in  truth  a  community  with 
a  communal  sense  and  something  of  the  spirit  of  communism. 

The  average  citizen  came  in  contact  with  scarcely  any  portion  of 
the  government  machinery  outside  the  town  and  its  officers.  He 
was  born  to  citizenship  or  achieved  it  by  paying  taxes.  The  town 
registered  his  birth,  his  marriage,  and  his  death.  Residence  in  the 
town  and  admission  to  the  community  were  rigidly  and  jealously 
guarded.  Dorchester  in  1634  enacted  that  "no  man  within  the 
Plantation  shall  sell  his  house  or  lott  to  any  man  without  the  Plan- 
tation, whome  they  shall  dislike  off." 

Not  only  did  the  freeman  have  his  home  lot,  but  the  valuable 
right  of  commonage.  Woodlands  and  pasture  were  owned  in  com- 
mon. Boston  Common  was  a  public  cow  pasture  well  into  the 
nineteenth  century.  In  Dorchester,  the  ancient  Calf  Pasture  is  still 


42  THE  NEW  ENGLAND  VILLAGE 

public  land  and  known  by  its  original  name.  The  Stone  Horse 
Pasture,  Lynn  Woods,  jecalls  where  the  stallions  were  kept  apart. 

The  New  England  town  was  neither  purely  a  civic  organization 
nor  wholly  an  ecclesiastical  unit.  It  had  elements  of  both.  The 
Puritans  and  Pilgrims  came  from  England,  not  to  found  a  democ- 
racy nor  to  establish  a  state  where  there  should  be  freedom  of  wor- 
ship, but  to  establish  a  community  which  should  coincide  with 
their  own  religious  tenets.  Both  the  Bay  Colony  and  Connecticut 
were  religious  hierarchies. 

American  democracy  has,  however,  grown  from  the  humble  begin- 
ning of  the  New  England  town  meeting.  Mr.  Bryce  has  aptly 
termed  the  town  meeting,  "the  school  as  well  as  source  of  democ- 
racy." He  points  out  that  the  English  settlers  were  largely  towns- 
folk, accustomed  in  England  to  municipal  life  and  vestry  meeting. 

Thomas  Jefferson,  though  he  disliked  New  England,  admired  its 
fundamental  institution  and  wished  to  see  its  like  in  Virginia.  He 
wrote:  "Townships  in  New  England  are  the  vital  principles  of  their 
Governments  and  have  proved  themselves  the  widest  invention 
ever  devised  by  the  wit  of  man  for  the  perfect  exercise  of  self-gov- 
ernment and  for  its  preservation." 

De  Tocqueville  wrote  in  1835:  "The  average  state  of  the  town- 
ships of  New  England  is  in  general  a  happy  one.  No  trace  exists  of 
a  distinction  of  rank.  The  native  of  New  England  is  attached  to 
his  township  because  it  is  independent  and  free;  its  affairs  insure 
his  attachment  to  its  interest.  He  takes  a  part  in  every  occurrence 
in  the  place.  He  practices  the  art  of  government  in  the  small  within 
his  reach." 

In  the  larger  towns  today,  the  difficulty  of  getting  all  the  voters 
together  for  the  consideration  of  public  business  makes  the  system 
unwieldy.  For  this  reason  the  elections  are  usually  held  in  the 
several  villages,  made  precincts  for  the  purpose,  while  town  business 
is  transacted  in  town  meeting  as  before.  Boston  remained  a  town 
until  it  became  nearly  as  large  as  its  famous  and  wealthy  suburb  of 
Brookline  is  today.  The  latter,  though  distinctly  an  urban  com- 
munity, still  clings  with  pride  to  its  town  meeting. 

The  town  system  is  similar  throughout  the  northern  New  England 
States.  In  Connecticut  the  towns  are  even  more  important  as  politi- 
cal units.  In  the  election  of  representatives  to  the  legislature  they 
all  stand  on  a  parity,  a  small  town  of  a  few  hundred  inhabitants  hav- 
ing the  same  representation  as  the  largest  cities.  Connecticut  villages 
and  cities  are  also  incorporated  boroughs  within  the  townships. 
The  city  of  Hartford  for  instance  is  within  the  Hartford  township. 

But  the  community  unit,  the  township,  that  gave  New  England 
democracy  has  never  become  an  institution  in  other  sections,  where 
the  county,  lacking  the  same  intimate  identity  between  the  social 
and  political,  is  the  unit  of  government.  Hence  the  New  England 
town  meeting  as  a  social  institution  remains  unique,  its  only  modern 
parallel  the  correspondingly  pure  democracy  of  the  Swiss  Cantons. 


ROADS  AND   HIGHWAYS 

The  Mohawk  Trail,  that  excellent  automobile  road  over  the 
Hoosacs,  opened  in  1915,  follows  the  old  route  that  the  fierce  Mo- 
hawks took  on  their  raids  from  the  Hudson  into  the  Connecticut 
valley.  All  New  England  was  covered  with  a  network  of  Indian 
trails  which  had  been  worn  by  the  natives  in  the  centuries  before 
the  coming  of  the  white  men.  As  the  earliest  settlements  were 
along  the  coast,  communication  between  them  was  first  maintained 
by  water.  As  settlements  multiplied,  it  was  by  the  Indian  trails 
that  the  pioneers  made  their  way  from  one  settlement  to  another, 
and  it  was  along  the  Indian  trails  that  they  penetrated  to  the  inte- 
rior. The  most  available  of  these  in  time  became  the  Colonial 
Bridle  Paths  which  eventually  widened  into  roads. 

Many  of  our  present  highways  and  railroads  today  follow  in  gen- 
eral the  course  of  the  Indian  trails.  That  explains  why  many  of 
our  old  roads  are  so  steep  and  difficult  for  teams  and  automobiles. 
In  winter  the  Indian  trails  followed  along  the  solid  ice  of  rivers  and 
ponds  which  furnished  a  convenient  path.  The  summer  trails  often 
went  over  steep  ridges  to  avoid  the  dense  growth  of  the  lowlands. 

The  story  of  how  the  Colonial  Bridle  Paths  developed  from  the 
Indian  trails  would  make  an  interesting  volume  itself.  The  'Old 
Connecticut  Path'  first  became  known  to  the  English  from  the 
Indians  who  brought  corn  from  the  Connecticut  valley  to  sell  in 
Boston.  John  Oldham  was  the  first  to  traverse  it  and  over  it  trav- 
eled the  emigrants  from  Boston  to  settle  at  Windsor  and  Wethers- 
field.  Starting  from  Cambridge,  it  followed  the  Charles  river  to 
Waltham,  thence  it  went  through  Weston,  Hopkinton,  and  Grafton 
into  'the  Wabbaquasset  Country'  across  the  Connecticut  line  to 
Woodstock,  reaching  the  Connecticut  river  opposite  Hartford. 

The  'Connecticut  Trail,'  first  noted  by  Winthrop  in  his  journal 
in  1648,  left  the  Old  Connecticut  Path  at  Weston  and  ran  through 
Sudbury  Center,  Stow,  Lancaster,  and  Princeton,  through  West 
Brookfield,  Warren,  and  Brimfield,  to  Springfield.  It  avoided  the 
hills,  and  is  in  part  traversed  today  by  the  Massachusetts  Central. 

The  '  Bay  Path,'  most  famous  of  Colonial  highways  and  so  known 
since  1673,  started  at  Watertown  and  from  South  Framingham  ran 
through  Marlboro,  Lancaster,  Worcester,  and  Brookfield,  where  it 
joined  the  Connecticut  Trail  to  Springfield.  From  it,  at  Brookfield, 
turned  off  the  'Hadley  Path.' 

The  first  reference  to  a  road  in  New  England  appears  in  the  Con- 
necticut Records  in  1638,  when  it  was  ordered  that  a  road  be  made 
to  Windsor,  which  is  probably  the  oldest  in  the  State.  In  1673  the 
first  mail  upon  the  continent  of  America  was  dispatched  by  post 
riders  from  New  York  to  Boston  by  way  of  New  Haven,  Hartford, 
Springfield,  and  Worcester.  In  1679  the  Connecticut  General  Court 
ordered  that  once  a  year  the  inhabitants  should  clear  a  roadway 
a  rod  wide  on  the  "King's  Highway."  In  1684  "great  neglect  was 

(43) 


44  ROADS  AND  HIGHWAYS 

f owned  in  mayntaining  of  the  highways  between  towne  and  towne; 
the  wayes  being  incumbered  with  dirty  slowes,  bushes,  trees  and 
stones."  In  1687  John  Munson  of  New  Haven  was  granted  the 
monopoly  for  seven  years  of  transporting  persons  and  goods  between 
New  Haven  and  Hartford.  This  was  probably  the  earliest  regular 
established  transportation  line. 

Shortly  after,  in  the  more  thickly  settled  portions,  highways  began 
to  be  laid  out,  but  for  a  half-century  this  was  little  more  than  a 
reservation  of  the  land  for  them.  Wheeled  vehicles,  at  first  un- 
known, were  hardly  practicable  outside  the  towns  before  1700, 
though  in  Boston  John  Winthrop  had  a  coach  as  early  as  1685  and 
Governor  Andros  had  one  in  1687.  A  form  of  four-wheeled  vehicle 
known  as  '  the  chariot '  was  gradually  introduced  as  roads  developed, 
but  even  up  to  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  inhabitants 
of  the  remoter  regions  of  Connecticut  had  never  seen  a  wheeled 
vehicle,  and  there  are  many  records  of  crowds  gathered  in  some 
village  to  see  the  first  coach  or  chaise.  Such  things  were  regarded 
as  particularly  hard  on  the  horses.  One  narrative  relates  that  "  the 
horse  dragging  it  was  fagged  nearly  to  death."  Benevolent  farmers 
kept  oxen  yoked  in  'mud  time'  to  relieve  teams  that  had  mired. 

Taverns  came  early,  in  the  eighteenth  century  improved,  and 
some  of  them  before  the  Revolution  became  famous  for  their  hos- 
pitality. One  of  the  most  famous  was  the  Black  Horse  Tavern  at 
Hartford,  the  great  coaching  center  with  26  lines  of  coaches.  Tim- 
othy Dwight  wrote  a  century  ago:  "Every  innkeeper  in  Connecticut 
must  be  recommended  by  the  selectmen  and  civil  authority,  con- 
stables and  grand  jurors  of  the  town  in  which  he  resides;  and  then 
licensed  at  the  court  of  common  pleas.  Substantially  in  the  same 
manner  is  the  business  regulated  in  Massachusetts  and  New  Hamp- 
shire. In  consequence  of  this  system,  men  of  no  small  personal 
respectability  have  ever  kept  inns  in  this  country." 

The  Peases  were  a  famous  family  not  only  in  hotel  management, 
but  in  transportation.  John  Adams  wrote:  "Gated  and  drank  tea 
at  Peases — a  smart  house  and  landlord  truly."  Captain  Levi  Pease, 
born  at  Enfield  in  1 740,  was  the  most  famous  stage  driver  in  his  day. 
He  started  a  line  of  stage  routes  from  Boston  to  Hartford.  This  in 
turn  led  him  to  such  efforts  toward  the  improvement  of  roads  that 
he  has  generally  been  called  '  Father  of  the  American  Turnpike.' 

The  New  London  Turnpike  Company  was  chartered  in  1800  to 
build  and  maintain  a  road  between  Hartford  and  New  London. 
Other  turnpikes  followed  rapidly.  Privately  owned,  they  proved 
the  popular  investment  of  the  time.  They  were  constructed  gener- 
ally in  straight  lines  between  important  centers  without  regard  to 
gravity,  ascending  hills  and  crossing  swamps. 

The  invention  of  the  Scotchman  MacAdam  early  in  the  nineteenth 
century  brought  in  a  better  type  of  road,  eminently  satisfactory 
until  the  advent  of  the  motor  car.  The  invention  about  the  middle 
of  the  nineteenth  century  of  the  Blake  Stone  Breaker  by  Eli  Whitney 
Blake  of  New  Haven,  a  relative  of  the  cotton  gin  inventor,  did 
much  for  the  cause  of  good  macadam  roads.  In  the  ten  years 
between  1862  and  1872  the  direct  labor-saving  due  to  the  five  hun- 
dred breakers  then  in  use  was  computed  at  over  $50,000,000. 


ROADS  AND   HIGHWAYS  45 

It  was  the  bicycle,  together  with  a  growing  appreciation  for  the 
open  country,  taking  the  citizens  out  of  the  narrow  confines  of  their 
town  to  explore  the  countryside,  which  resulted  in  the  discovery  that 
good  roads  paid.  The  knowledge  that  bad  roads  were  wasteful  of 
energy  had  doubtless  long  been  common  in  the  horse  world.  But 
hard  pedaling  over  sandy  and  rutty  roads  did  much  to  make  it  com- 
prehensible to  human  intelligence  and  bring  men  to  a  willingness  to 
pay  taxes  for  good  roads. 

New  England  has  led  in  highway  improvement  and  Massachusetts 
has  shown  the  way.  The  Bay  State  had  the  first  Highway  Com- 
mission, and  Governor  Ames  inaugurated  the  policy  of  having  the 
State  financially  aid  in  road  building.  Up  to  1893  all  road  work  in 
New  England  was  done  in  hit-or-miss  fashion,  as  it  still  is  in  remote 
rural  districts  where  the  natives  turn  out  at  'road  working'  to 
avoid  paying  the  road  taxes  and  have  a  sociable  time. 

When  Nathaniel  Southgate  Shaler,  Professor  of  Geology  at  Har- 
vard, was  appointed  Chairman  of  the  Massachusetts  Highway 
Commission,  in  1893,  he  not  only  kept  it  wholly  out  of  politics,  but 
gave  it  a  standing  for  efficient  organization  and  scientific  improve- 
ment in  road  construction,  resulting  in  an  impetus  to  the  good  roads 
movement  which  it  has  never  gotten  over.  Moreover,  he  established 
at  Harvard  in  charge  of  his  nephew,  Walter  Page,  a  laboratory  for 
testing  road  materials  from  which  has  developed  the  national  office 
of  Public  Roads  at  Washington.  Since  then  Massachusetts  has 
expended  $8,500,000  on  nine  hundred  miles  of  State  Road. 

Waterbound  macadam  was  all  very  well  until  the  automobile 
came  along  and  tore  the  surface  to  pieces.  The  road  builders  were 
filled  with  consternation,  travelers  with  dust.  The  automobile  has 
necessitated  new  methods  of  road  building.  Waterbound  is  being 
largely  displaced  by  bituminous  macadam. 

New  Hampshire  several  years  ago  adopted  a  system  of  marking 
the  new  State  Trunk  Highways  so  that  they  might  be  the  more 
.readily  followed  by  means  of  uniform  colored  bands  on  telegraph 
poles  along  the  road.  New  Hampshire  has  continuously  developed 
this  policy.  As  each  State  Road  has  been  completed,  its  course  has 
been  marked  by  a  new  color.  Some  dozen  colors  in  all  are  thus 
utilized,  making  quite  unnecessary  the  usual  automobile  road  book 
directions  when  traveling  along  any  of  these  routes. 

It  was  some  years  before  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut  adopted 
a  similar  system.  In  these  States  a  tricolor  system  is  used.  East 
and  west  trunk  lines  are  marked  by  red  bands  on  telegraph  poles  and 
fence  posts,  north  and  south  routes  by  blue  bands,  and  diagonal 
routes  of  secondary  importance  by  yellow  bands.  This  tricolor 
system  is  under  consideration  for  adoption  in  Rhode  Island,  Vermont, 
and  Maine,  and  will  doubtless  be  put  into  effect  as  soon  as  appro- 
priations make  it  possible.  On  highways  so  marked  no  route  direc- 
tions are  needed  or  can  be  of  any  avail  in  following  the  course  of  the 
route. 


NEW  ENGLAND  ARCHITECTURE 

Not  the  least  of  the  charms  of  the  present-day  New  England 
lies  in  the  quaint  examples  of  Colonial  architecture  still  to  be  found 
along  its  byways  and  in  its  villages,  and  in  the  later  beautiful 
Georgian  structures  whose  harmony  of  proportion  and  beauty  of 
detail  are  the  inspiration  or  despair  of  modern  architects. 

New  England  architecture  of  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth 
centuries  is  eminently  satisfying.  It  fits  the  landscape;  it  seems 
characteristic  of  the  time  and  place.  Derived  and  adapted  it 
may  be,  but  its  worthiest  examples  are  not  mere  imitation  but  have 
a  certain  indigenous  quality.  Moreover,  to  the  careful  student 
a  progressive  development  through  Colonial  time,  an  always  human- 
ized relation  to  the  environment,  becomes  apparent. 

The  architecture  of  Colonial  America  presents  two  distinct  types, 
definitely  and  sharply  marked  off  from  one  another,  though  the 
distinction  has  been  too  generally  ignored.  Passing  by  the  log 
cabin  stage  as  a  mere  makeshift,  the  term  '  Colonial '  may  appro- 
priately be  applied  to  the  architecture  characteristic  of  the  earliest 
period  in  New  England  up  to  the  eighteenth  century. 

From  about  1720  we  find  a  marked  change  in  the  character  of 
architecture  in  trie  colonies.  More  settled  conditions  and  increased 
wealth  made  possible  the  adoption  of  a  new  style  of  architecture 
which  was  developing  in  England.  This  '  Georgian '  architecture, 
as  it  is  appropriately  and  generally  called,  the  New  Englanders 
adopted  and  adapted  to  their  own  ends.  The  Georgian  may  be 
interpreted  as  the  English  Renaissance. 

After  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century,  much  more  pretentious 
structures  were  erected  in  New  England,  but,  except  in  so  far  as  the 
Colonial  tradition  survived,  little  or  nothing  has  since  been  produced 
in  architecture  that  is  essentially  characteristic  of  the  region.  The 
waves  of  Neo- Classicism,  Gothic,  and  Romanesque  revivals  that 
have  swept  over  the  land,  though  variously  interpreted  by  men  of 
New  England  birth  and  training,  have  failed  to  absorb  or  assimilate 
anything  from  their  environment. 

If  architecture  is  "frozen  music"  as  has  been  said,  it  falls  into 
as  many  schools  as  music  itself.  That  of  early  New  England  would 
from  this  point  of  view  be  akin  to  folk  music,  rude  and  vigorous  in 
its  sturdy  adaptation  to  the  rough  conditions  of  the  life  of  the  time. 
Georgian  architecture,  on  the  other  hand,  rather  suggests  the 
balanced  measures  and  courtly  grace  of  the  days  of  the  minuet, — 
the  polished  artificiality  and  balance  of  rhythm  defined  in  Mozart 
and  his  school. 

However  this  may  be,  an  indigenous  architecture  is  always  the 
mirror  of  history  reflecting  in  permanent  form  the  conditions  of  life 
which  created  it.  There  can  be  no  understanding  of  early  New 
England  architecture  without  a  clear  picture  of  its  historic  back- 

(46) 


NEW  ENGLAND  ARCHITECTURE  47 

grounds,  without  comprehension  of  the  social  and  economic  life 
that  called  it  into  existence. 

Just  as  truly  as  the  first  log  cabin  stage  was  the  result  of  the  im- 
mediate pressing  need  for  shelter  such  as  could  be  shaped  from 
the  rude  materials  at  hand,  so  the  houses  of  the  seventeenth  century, 
built  after  the  fields  had  been  cleared  and  the  more  pressing  needs 
of  food  and  shelter  had  been  met,  were  the  result  of  traditions 
brought  from  England,  modified  by  local  necessities  or  conditions. 
A  typical  example  of  such  adaptation  to  a  local  need  is  seen  in  the 
seaport  towns,  where  the  dwellings  of  the  wealthy  ship-owners  almost 
invariably  have  glazed  cupolas  whence  the  proprietors  could  scan 
the  horizon  for  the  sails  of  their  returning  argosies. 

The  Colonial  architecture  of  the  seventeenth  century  was  evolved 
from  English  prototypes  adapted  to  local  conditions  in  the  new 
world.  It  evolved  characteristic  forms  in  New  England  as  the  result 
of  local  needs  and  conditions.  Its  structures  show  an  indigenous 
flavor,  a  stanch  resourcefulness  and  adaptiveness  with  local  varia- 
tions, the  result  sometimes  of  climatic  and  material  differences  in 
the  north  and  south  of  New  England,  on  the  sea-coast  or  in  the 
interior.  There  is  an  expression  of  rugged  comfort  about  the  dwell- 
ings. Utilitarian  aims  are  constantly  in  mind  in  the  plan  and 
arrangement. 

The  typical  seventeenth  century  dwelling,  while  a  model  of 
utilization  of  space,  would  hardly  have  met  with  the  approval  of 
the  modern  tenement  house  inspector.  The  number  of  bedrooms 
would  today  be  considered  totally  inadequate  for  the  large  families 
and  numerous  children.  As  many  as  three  slept  in  one  bed,  often 
with  several  beds  in  a  low-studded  room.  To  comprehend  the 
limitations  of  space  in  many  of  these  seventeenth  century  houses 
we  must  divest  them,  as  they  stand,  of  their  recent  additions. 

In  this  rigorous  climate  of  long  winters,  the  fireplace  became 
all  important, — the  hearthstone  had  a  significance  now  lost.  In 
a  common  type  of  seventeenth  century  dwelling,  the  chimney  was 
the  core  around  which  the  house  was  built.  It  supplied  not  only 
heat  and  light  but  on  its  crane  and  in  its  Dutch  oven  the  cooking 
was  done.  Around  the  great  open  fireplace  the  indoor  activities 
centered.  Here  the  family  gathered, — the  elder  in  the  inglenooks 
and  choicer  spots,  the  younger  in  the  more  remote  and  draughty 
places.  Here  the  lads  and  lasses  did  their  courting  through  a 
courting  stick, — a  long  wooden  tube  with  mouth  and  ear  pieces. 

The  most  obvious  characteristic  of  New  England  structures  is 
that  they  are  of  wood.  Except  for  Russia,  Scandinavia,  and 
Japan,  nowhere  else  does  wood  so  dominate.  General  Washington 
coming  to  New  England  from  the  South,  where  stone  and  brick 
prevailed,  marveled  at  the  houses  "being  built  almost  entirely  of 
wood  ...  as  the  country  is  full  of  stone,  and  good  clay  for  bricks." 

The  builders  had  the  English  half-timber  tradition.  The  rigorous 
New  England  winters  proved  the  necessity  of  protecting  such  poor 
plaster  as  was  then  made  and  many  of  the  earlier  houses  had  their 
clapboard  casing  added  at  a  later  period.  The  origin  of  the  name 
'  clapboard '  is  itself  significant,  for  the  earlier  form  was  '  clayboard.' 
As  lime-mortar  was  little  used,  clay  mixed  with  straw  was  the  sub- 


48  NEW  ENGLAND  ARCHITECTURE 

stitute  and  the  'clay-boards'  were  placed  over  this  to  prevent 
weathering.  This  was  equally  true  hi  America  and  England.  We 
find  the  first  cargo  from  Plymouth  was  of  split-pine  clapboards. 
The  "  Fortune,"  a  small  ship  of  fifty-five  tons,  arriving  from  England 
in  November,  1621,  was  "speedily  dispatcht  away,  being  laden 
with  good  clapboard  as  full  as  she  could  stowe,  and  2  hogsheads  of 
beaver  and  other  skins."  As  the  quality  of  plaster  has  improved  in 
England  the  necessity  for  clapboards  has  decreased.  Still  the 
clapboard  tradition  has  been  so  firmly  established  in  New  England 
that  frequently  brick  walls  are  still  so  encased. 

The  earliest  meeting  houses  in  New  England  were  crude,  cabin- 
like  affairs.  The  earliest  extant,  the  old  Ship  Church  of  Hing- 
ham,  1680,  so  called  because  its  timbers  were  framed  by  ship  car- 
penters, is  typical  and  characteristic  of  the  best  of  the  early  houses 
of  worship.  Its  square  form  gives  maximum  of  spaciousness  at 
minimum  expense  of  wall  surface.  The  outlines  with  the  truncated 
hipped  roof  are  of  severe  plainness  without  the  slightest  architectural 
pretension.  It  is  the  only  house  for  public  or  religious  purposes  of 
the  early  Colonial  period  in  New  England  that  has  survived. 

The  Georgian  architecture  of  old  England  was  of  course  carried 
out  in  stone.  Transplanted  to  New  England  the  local  tradition 
of  clapboard  or  wood  casing  was  followed.  The  change  of  material 
necessarily  resulted  in  a  repression  of  many  architectural  adornments 
and  a  concentration  of  ornament  about  the  entrance  doorway  and 
the  windows  with  an  elaboration  of  ornamental  detail  in  the  interiors. 
In  its  first  phases  in  New  England  up  to  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth 
century  the  Georgian  architecture  is  characterized  by  rather  heavy 
proportions,  and  by  segmental  curved  pediments  above  the  door- 
ways. The  old  Dummer  House  at  Byfield,  1715,  the  Warner 
House  in  Portsmouth,  1723,  and  the  Royall  House  at  Medford, 
1728,  are  excellent  examples  of  this  first  stage  of  the  development 
of  the  Georgian  in  New  England.  Belonging  to  this  period  too  is 
the  old  Boston  State  House,  1728,  a  structure  excellent  in  its  propor- 
tions and  pleasing  in  its  poise,  whose  stepped  gables  are  perhaps 
suggestive  of  the  old  Guild  Houses  of  Holland.  It  has  shared  in 
the  happy  tendency  of  recent  years  to  scrape  the  paint  off  old  Boston 
and  the  pleasing  tones  of  the  dull  hued  old  red  brick  add  not  a  little  to 
its  elderly  charm. 

Faneuil  Hall,  1 741 ,  designed  by  John  Smibert,  displays  the  Georgian 
architecture  in  its  more  fully  developed  characteristics.  Less 
appreciated  architecturally  because  of  the  difficulties  the  observer 
has  in  seeing  it,  surrounded  as  it  is  by  market  stalls,  it  is  further 
marred  by  successive  dirty  coats  of  paint.  Its  restoration  is  now 
being  agitated,  a  fearsome  thing  under  Mayor  Curley's  administra- 
tion. The  Newport  State  House,  1743,  designed  by  Richard  Mundy, 
and  Market  House,  1762,  of  Peter  Harrison  are  other  notable  examples 
of  this  period. 

Inigo  Jones,  the  first  to  introduce  the  mode  of  formal  classicism, 
had  spent  much  time  in  Italy  and  had  been  employed  to  design  a 
villa  at  Vicenza,  where  he  came  under  the  influence  of  Palladio. 
About  the  middle  of  the  century  Palladian  influence  became  more 
pronounced.  Exterior  curves  gave  way  to  straight  lines,  the  pro- 


NEW  ENGLAND  ARCHITECTURE  49 

portions  more  harmonious,  the  whole  showing  greater  poise.  The 
old  Lee  house,  1768,  at  Marblehead,  illustrates  this  phase. 

Under  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  who  during  the  period  of  his  edu- 
cation had  traveled  extensively  on  the  Continent,  the  rich  heritage 
of  the  Renaissance  transmitted  through  Palladio  blossomed  into 
new  adaptations  of  graceful  proportions  and  beauty  of  detail.  This 
development  of  Georgian  architecture  is  characterized  by  a  balanced 
formality  of  symmetry  with  refinement  of  classic  detail.  It  is  not 
the  cold  and  adamant  formality  of  the  later  classic  revival,  but  is 
a  living  and  local  adaptation  of  classic  forms  breathing  the  true  spirit 
of  the  Renaissance.  It  is  the  architecture  of  a  society  of  increased 
wealth  and  culture  reflecting  improved  economic  conditions  and 
the  development  of  social  life  and  amenities.  It  evidences  a  new 
order  of  society,  an  era  of  peace  and  prosperity.  About  the  time 
of  the  Revolution  the  influence  of  the  Brothers  Adam,  best  known 
for  their  influence  on  the  furniture  of  the  era,  penetrated  to  New 
England,  strongly  influencing  the  architects  of  the  time.  Charles 
Bulfinch  of  Boston  and  Samuel  Mclntire  of  Salem  both  elaborated 
the  Adam  tradition.  The  latter  by  attenuation  of  pillars  and 
pilasters  gave  a  new  grace  to  the  classic.  Bulfinch,  generally  re- 
garded as  one  of  the  most  probable  fathers  of  American  architecture, 
has  more  indelibly  left  his  stamp  upon  the  architecture  of  New  Eng- 
land than  any  one  other.  A  graduate  of  Harvard,  he  traveled 
extensively  in  Europe,  studying  architecture.  His  most  notable 
creation  is,  of  course,  the  State  House,  1795,  on  Beacon  Hill,  which 
in  all  its  lines  and  features  marks  the  transition  from  the  Adamesque 
Georgian  to  the  classic  revival.  Despite  the  massive  wings  which 
it  has  grown  of  late,  despite  successive  coats  of  paint  which  conceal 
the  harmonious  colors  of  the  red  brick  beneath, — making  all  al- 
lowance for  its  superb  position, — the  Bulfinch  State  House  is  still 
a  structure  of  dignity,  of  poise  and  beauty.  University  Hall  at 
Harvard  is  another  of  his  creations,  which  in  spite  of  severity  of  line 
accents  the  horrors  of  its  later  nineteenth  century  neighbors,  and 
casts  doubt  upon  the  authenticity  of  its  twentieth  century  parvenus. 

The  period  following  the  close  of  the  Revolution  on  the  whole 
marks  a  decline  in  taste.  The  loyalists,  who  had  been  in  large  part 
the  people  of  wealth  and  refinement,  were  discredited  or  driven 
out,  and  the  wealth  and  power  in  many  cases  was  in  the  hands  of 
persons  who  in  the  turmoil  had  come  up  rapidly  from  a  lower  social 
status.  These  nouveaux-riches,  who  owed  their  advancement  to 
their  radical  and  Revolutionary  enthusiasms,  built  with  less  dis- 
criminating taste. 

The  Georgian  tradition,  however,  had  become  deeply  ingrained 
and  was  perpetuated  by  the  carpenter  builders  of  New  England 
well  into  the  nineteenth  century.  In  the  dwellings  and  meeting 
houses  constructed  by  these  artificers,  for  the  most  part  nameless, 
they  showed  in  many  cases  a  rare  degree  of  taste  and  adaptability. 
Among  them  Isaac  Damon  of  Northampton,  some  of  whose  churches 
still  stand  at  Hartford,  may  well  be  designated  "architect." 

To  Russell  Warren  is  due  the  architectural  distinction  of  many 
of  the  residential  mansions  built  by  the  wealthy  residents  and  ship- 
owners of  Rhode  Island,  especially  of  Bristol.  A  distinctive  feature 


SO  NEW   ENGLAND   ARCHITECTURE 

of  his  work  is  the  well-proportioned  cornice  or  parapet  rail  and  the 
artistic  devices  lavished  on  the  decorations  of  the  doorways.  "Here 
in  a  charming  geometric  group,  pilasters,  fan-light,  panels,  and 
hood,  with  all  their  chaste  embellishment,  form  a  focal  centre." 

Asher  Benjamin  of  Greenfield  published  in  1796  a  compilation  of 
designs  and  drawings,  "The  Country  Builders'  Society,"  which  like 
the  pattern  books  of  Sheraton  and  Adam  in  furniture,  exerted  a 
wide  influence  on  the  carpenter  builders  of  the  tune. 

The  classic  revival,  largely  an  influence  direct  from  France, 
led  to  porticoes  and  pediments,  stiff  and  wooden,  obsequiously 
placed  in  front  of  buildings  or  court  houses  without  any  feeling  or 
adaptation.  The  classicism  of  the  revival  adopted  forms  without 
meaning.  It  reproduced  however  incongruously,  without  regard  to 
relations.  Doric  porticoes  and  colonnades  of  Corinthian  columns 
were  attached  to  public  buildings  because  the  appropriation  permitted, 
or  on  the  fronts  of  dwellings  because  the  owner  had  the  price. 

The  early  Gothic  revival  which  followed  the  neo-classicism  of 
the  first  part  of  the  nineteenth  century  produced  only  horrors. 
H.  H.  Richardson  with  his  transplantation  of  the  Romanesque 
forms  of  western  France  produced  buildings  perhaps  overmuch 
admired  in  his  time  but  which  cannot  be  denied  a  certain  satisfying 
quality  however  exotic.  Trinity  Church  in  Copley  Square  is  his 
chef  d'ceuvre,  but  his  prolificness  is  attested  by  Romanesque  churches, 
libraries,  and  railway  stations  throughout  New  England.  Richard- 
son's work  though  so  clearly  an  adaptation  displays  genuine  indi- 
viduality and  came  near  to  establishing  a  school. 

Since  his  day  New  England  has  witnessed  adaptations  and  repro- 
ductions of  almost  every  possible  kind  of  architecture,  exhibiting 
varying  degrees  of  success  and  failure.  In  the  period  following  the 
Civil  War,  the  French  Renaissance  as  interpreted  by  Government 
architects  and  imitated  by  their  fellows  ran  riot  in  granite  and  cast 
iron  fronts.  In  the  '7o's  and  '8o's,  Boston  had  an  epidemic  of 
Saracenic  architecture.  About  Copley  Square,  the  Old  South 
Church,  the  Hotel  Victoria,  the  curiously  domed  skyline  of  lower 
Huntington  Avenue  assumed  form  when  Mohammedan  influence 
prevailed. 

The  greater  architectural  efforts  in  New  England  during  the 
twentieth  century  have  followed  more  or  less  completely  either  the 
Roman  or  the  Gothic  tradition.  In  the  former  mode,  Guy  Lowell 
has  in  the  Boston  Museum  of  Fine  Arts  and  similar  buildings 
achieved  distinction.  But  the  Gothic  has  attained  an  even  greater 
success.  Its  chief  exponent  is  Ralph  Adams  Cram,  whose  ardor  has 
made  of  the  Gothic  a  propaganda  and  whose  genius  has  produced 
structures  of  beauty  with  something  of  the  spirit  of  the  times  from 
which  they  are  adapted.  R.  Clipston  Sturgis  in  his  notable  Gothic 
Group  for  the  new  Perkins  Institution  at  Watertown  has  shown  the 
same  facility  in  the  reproduction  of  Gothic  forms  that  he  has  in 
the  classic. 

Worthy  as  have  been  the  efforts  of  recent  generations,  New  Eng- 
land architecture  still  connotes  the  Colonial  and  the  Georgian. 


THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 

All  New  England  was  divided  into  four  parts  in  the  time  of 
the  Revolution.  To  the  original  four  colonies,  Vermont,  the  four- 
teenth, and  Maine,  the  twenty-third  State,  have  since  been  added. 

New  England  is  an  entity,  a  natural  physiographic  region,  and 
the  interests  of  its  people  are  one,  but  it  still  remains  divided  into 
six  parts.  There  is  little  cooperation  between  the  states  and  there 
is  lacking  a  feeling  of  unity  among  the  people.  "Wake  up,  New 
England,"  "Get  Together,  New  England,"  and  "Boom  New  Eng- 
land" are  slogans  which  have  been  sounded  without  very  much 
permanent  result. 

The  traditions,  local  prejudices,  the  prosperity  and  the  let-well- 
enough-alone  spirit  offer  large  obstacles  to  the  development  of  any 
unity  of  action.  No  actual  consolidation,  of  course,  is  possible  or 
has  ever  been  projected.  The  pride  of  the  people  in  their  home 
states,  the  entrenchment  of  privilege,  and  the  fact  that  local  leaders 
and  local  politicians  would  thereby  lose  control  of  their  bailiwicks 
make  such  a  plan  unthinkable  in  this  plutocratic  democracy. 

MAINE 

The  State  of  Maine  stands  at  the  very  top.  Nothing  east  of  the 
Mississippi  reaches  nearly  so  far  north.  The  'Man  from  Missouri' 
usually  thinks  of  Maine  as  a  knob  on  the  New  England  corner  of  the 
map,  sticking  up  into  Canada.  If  you  come  from  Massachusetts, 
they  are  likely  to  tell  you  up  in  Maine  that  "you  can  put  the  whole 
Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts  down  in  the  north  woods  so  that 
even  a  Maine  guide  couldn't  find  it."  This  seems  rather  a  reflection 
on  the  Maine  guides.  It  is,  however,  a  matter  of  sober  statistics. 
Maine  has  an  area  equal  to  the  five  other  New  England  States  com- 
bined with  a  total  population  about  that  of  Suffolk  County,  Mass. 
Its  size,  however,  is  less  than  that  of  any  State  in  the  Union  outside 
New  England,  excepting  only  Delaware,  Maryland,  New  Jersey,  and 
West  Virginia. 

The  Maine  coast  on  the  map  is  as  ragged  as  a  frayed  and  tattered 
garment,  but  for  the  yachtsman  it  is  a  paradise,  unrivaled  in  beauty. 
Though  only  278  miles  by  aeroplane  from  Kittery  Point  to  Quoddy 
Head,  its  coast  line  of  2400  miles  is  almost  as  long  as  all  the  rest  of  the 
east  coast.  There  are  almost  countless  islands.  Some  Maine  man 
has  said  that  there  are  13,000;  whether  he  dropped  or  added  a  cipher, 
or  counted  the  pebbles,  doesn't  much  matter.  Maine  has  1800  lakes 
and  5000  streams,  more  than  all  the  other  forty-seven  States  in  the 
Union.  One  tenth  of  the  total  area  is  covered  with  water.  No 
wonder  the  State  goes  dry  by  a  small  majority. 

Equidistant  between  the  equator  and  the  poles,  there  is  nothing 
equable  about  the  climate.  The  Penobscot  is  frozen  145  days  in  the 
year,  and  they  take  advantage  of  its  condition  to  saw  it  up  in  chunks 
and  consign  it  to  warmer  places. 

(sD 


52  THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 

The  Maine  winters  were  formerly  considered  a  liability,  but  the 
commercial  optimism  of  the  Mainiacs  is  endeavoring  to  realize  on 
them  as  an  asset.  A  Maine  man  reminds  us  that  the  winter  before 
the  war  broke  out,  Switzerland,  only  half  as  large  as  Maine,  had 
half  a  million  tourists  within  her  boundaries,  and  that,  though  the 
Maine  hills  are  not  so  high,  there  are  more  of  them.  As  there  is  no 
question  about  the  snow,  the  "Down  Easters"  are  out  for  the  winter 
business.  St.  Moritz,  they  say,  got  its  fame  through  advertising, 
and  they  propose  to  have  some  of  that  same  commodity  by  the 
same  popular  method. 

The  first  attempts  to  settle  New  England  were  made  in  Maine. 
DeMonts  in  1604,  Weymouth  the  following  year,  and  several  others 
after  one  sample  of  the  Maine  winter  became  discouraged  and  went 
back  home.  When  Captain  John  Smith  came  cruising  along  the 
coast  in  1608  he  found  almost  as  many  inhabitants  on  Monhegan 
as  there  are  now.  He  saw  them  sitting  on  the  rocks,  catching  cun- 
ners  and  rock  cod,  just  as  they  do  today.-  But  the  inhabitants  then, 
as  now,  found  it  one  of  the  best  countries  in  the  world  to  depart 
from,  and  none  of  these  settlements  proved  permanent. 

One  trouble  was  that  both  the  French  King  and  the  English 
King  laid  claim  to  the  land,  neither  bothering  to  recognize  the  red 
men.  As  soon  as  the  French  or  English  started  to  build  nice  com- 
fortable little  cottages,  the  others  would  come  and  rout  them  out. 
Some  descendants  of  the  first  French  who  settled  there  still  live  on 
Mount  Desert,  but  now  they  don't  even  know  how  to  pronounce 
their  names.  The  Des  Isles  call  themselves  the  "De  Sizzles." 
Even  the  fashionable  summer  residents  today  pronounce  the  island's 
name  as  suggesting  an  after-dinner  confection  instead  of  Champlain's 
first  impression  of  its  barrenness. 

Thirteen  years  before  the  "Mayflower"  discovered  Plymouth 
Rock,  a  little  colony  began  housekeeping  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saga- 
dahoc,  and  here  they  launched  the  "Virginia,"  the  first  American- 
built  ship.  And  a  very  proper  little  craft  she  was,  especially  when 
it  came  to  driving  out  the  French.  This  was  the  beginning  of  the 
Maine  shipbuilding  industry,  which  still  continues. 

The  'District  of  Maine'  was  long  held  in  a  tributary  state  by 
the  Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts,  yielding  the  latter  a  net 
revenue  of  millions  of  dollars.  In  1820  Maine  finally  achieved  her 
independence,  and  was  admitted  to  the  Union  as  the  twenty-third 
State.  Excepting  only  Michigan,  Florida,  and  West  Virginia,  this 
was  the  last  new  State  east  of  the  Mississippi. 

Maine  is  the  bonanza  farming  state,  it  appears  from  a  modest 
little  pamphlet  issued  by  Commissioner  Guptill  of  the  State  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture.  This  is  chuck  full  of  the  most  interesting  in- 
formation, unbelievable  though  true.  Here  one  reads  that  Maine 
exceeds  all  other  States  in  acreage  production  of  corn,  oats,  and 
potatoes.  The  Maine  farmer  gets  an  average  of  46  bushels  of  corn 
to  the  acre,  while  the  next  best  that  can  be  done  is  in  Michigan  with 
36  bushels,  and  the  average  of  the  whole  country  is  only  25.8.  In 
the  matter  of  oats  Maine  has  put  it  all  over  the  other  States.  Here, 
141,000  acres  devoted  to  this  crop  yielded  an  average  of  41  bushels, 
while  the  average  for  the  whole  country  was  only  29.7.  Michigan 


THE   STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND  53 

again  came  second  with  33.5.  The  average  potato  crop  of  the  whole 
State  is  260  bushels,  for  the  whole  country  it  is  only  109.5.  Maine 
stands  first,  Mr.  Guptill  further  tells  us,  in  the  number  of  apple  trees 
in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  land  in  improved  farms.  One  of 
Maine's  most  valuable  crops  grows  without  the  slightest  cultivation 
or  attention.  Its  blueberries  are  sold  in  baskets  or  in  tin  cans. 

Maine  is  just  beginning  to  discover  her  possibilities.  In  1899 
only  six  and  a  half  million  bushels  of  potatoes  were  raised;  ten  years 
later  twenty-nine  million  bushels.  Maine  people  say  that  whereas 
they  now  raise  only  a  paltry  thirty  million  they  might  raise  three 
hundred  million  bushels. 

Maine  raises  other  things, — hotel  prices,  statesmen,  and  boosters. 
The  boosters  have  a  tendency  to  raise  still  other  things  when  they 
get  away  from  their  home  State,  and  Maine  statesmen  are  usually 
inclined  to  raise  the  tariff.  Dingley  'got  away  with  it'  and  made 
himself  famous. 

Even  the  boys  and  girls  in  Maine  have  taken  to  raising  things. 
Last  year  there  were  250  boys  enrolled  in  30  Potato  Clubs.  The 
seventeen-year-old  boy  of  Aroostook  County  who  won  the  Potato 
Club  sweepstakes  in  1915  raised  potatoes  at  the  rate  of  459  bushels 
to  the  acre,  at  a  cost  of  17  cents  a  bushel.  The  winner  of  the  prize 
for  raising  potatoes  at  lowest  cost  turned  in  accounts  showing  a  net 
of  15^  cents  a  bushel.  This  combination  of  genius  on  the  part  of 
the  youth  to  lower  costs,  and  on  the  part  of  the  grown-ups  to  boost 
prices,  promises  great  things  if  Federal  investigation  can  be  staved 
off.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  Uncle  Sam  got  after  the  Potato  Trust  in 
this  region  last  winter  and  may  have  jarred  them  a  little.  There 
are  Girls'  Garden  Clubs  as  well.  If  the  winner  of  the  contest  this 
past  year,  Miss  Chrystal  Waddell,  aged  twelve,  raised  beets  as  is 
alleged,  at  the  rate  of  $659.60  an  acre,  what  will  she  do  when  she 
grows  up? 

Maine  exports  hay,  potatoes,  lime,  lobsters,  and  native-born 
inhabitants.  The  United  States  Census  tells  us  over  200,000  Maine- 
born  live  in  other  States.  Something  like  30,000  of  the  sons  and 
daughters  of  Maine  have  gone  to  the  Pacific  Coast.  No  other  State 
in  the  Union  has  contributed  so  many  worthy  citizens  to  other 
localities.  This  is  evidence  of  their  enterprise  and  desire  to  better 
conditions  in  other  parts  rather  than  of  any  dissatisfaction  with  their 
own  State. 

Every  one  who  ever  had  any  connection  with  Maine  is  inordi- 
nately proud  of  it,  especially  if  it  happens  to  be  through  birth. 
Although  the  natives  of  the  Pine  Tree  State  move  away,  they  never 
cease  to  boast  of  their  origin,  and  come  back  when  they  have  made 
their  pile  elsewhere,  to  be  buried  in  the  little  old  family  graveyard 
or  to  remodel  the  old  farmhouse  or  build  a  palatial  seaside  residence. 

NEW  HAMPSHIRE 

Where  is  New  Hampshire?  Every  schoolboy  knows,  and  yet  the 
question  is  now  before  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States  for 
decision.  For  more  than  a  century  the  dispute  has  gone  on  between 
New  Hampshire  and  Vermont  as  to  where  one  State  ends  and  the 


54  THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 

other  begins,  whether  the  thread  of  the  river  is  the  boundary  or  the 
west  bank,  and  what  part  of  that  bank. 

A  few  years  ago  a  workman  on  a  bridge  at  Bellows  Falls  fell  to 
the  rocks  below  and  was  killed.  The  personal  liability  laws  of 
Vermont  and  New  Hampshire  were  so  different  that  while  the  law- 
yers of  one  side  maintained  that  he  fell  in  Vermont,  those  on  the 
other  insisted  that  he  fell  in  New  Hampshire.  This  revived  dormant 
controversy,  and,  after  vain  attempts  of  a  commission  to  settle  the 
question,  Vermont  is  now  suing  New  Hampshire  before  the  Supreme 
Court  of  the  United  States. 

Millions  hang  upon  the  decision,  for  below  Bellows  Falls  between 
high  and  low  water,  on  the  west  side,  the  International  Paper  Com- 
pany has  built  great  mills  to  utilize  the  waterpower.  Both  New 
Hampshire  and  Vermont  have  laid  claim  to  the  taxes,  so  meanwhile 
the  Company  has  deposited  a  sum  in  a  bank  at  Bellows  Falls  to 
be  held  in  escrow. 

The  rival  claims  date  from  the  eighteenth  century.  "The  West- 
minster War"  of  1775  was  due  to  the  New  Hampshire  Government 
sending  an  armed  force  across  the  river  to  protect  the  New  Hampshire 
grantees. 

Vermont,  an  independent  republic  until  1791,  claimed  territory 
to  the  thread  of  the  river  and  at  times  parts  of  what  is  now  New 
Hampshire.  But  in  1782  its  legislature  accepted  the  west  bank  of 
the  river  as  the  eastern  boundary.  Then  the  question  arose, — Where 
is  the  west  bank  line, — at  low  water,  at  high  water,  or  at  the  top  of 
the  bank?  If  the  Supreme  Court  calendar  is  not  too  crowded,  we 
shall  in  a  few  years  know  where  Vermont  begins  and  New  Hampshire 
ends. 

New  Hampshire  is  known  as  the  'Granite  State,'  though  the 
three  bordering  States  quarry  and  manufacture  a  far  greater  amount 
of  that  commodity.  The  rivers  and  streams  are  the  most  indus- 
trious things  of  the  State,  turning  thousands  of  wheels  and  millions 
of  spindles  and  providing  a  bare  existence  for  hordes  of  Poles,  Rus- 
sians, Italians,  Syrians,  Greeks,  and  other  operatives.  One  of  the 
State's  first  efforts  in  the  production  of  statesmen  resulted  in  Daniel 
Webster,  but  she  continues  to  produce  them  in  ever  increasing  num- 
bers and  ever  diminishing  sizes. 

Concord  is  the  capital,  though  in  the  days  of  Jethro  Bass  much  of 
the  State's  business  was  done  at  Croydon  and  later  the  Boston  & 
Maine  R.R.  saved  the  legislature  all  cerebral  activity  by  attending 
to  that  in  its  Boston  offices.  For  several  decades  the  railroad  owned 
and  managed  the  State,  but  because  of  extravagant  and  careless 
methods  finally  lost  its  hold.  How  extravagant,  was  shown  in  a 
recent  legislative  inquiry  in  an  item  for  $35,000  paid  an  attorney  for 
a  "conversation,"  which  somebody  figured  out  was  at  the  rate  of 
$70  a  word, — a  pretty  high  rate,  though  Colonel  Harvey  is  said  to 
have  once  paid  the  Pope  $8  a  word  for  an  article  for  the  "North 
American  Review." 

The  White  Mountains  are  prominent  a  little  north  of  the  center 
of  the  State.  Now  that  they  have  been  skinned  of  their  timber, 
they  have  been  unloaded  upon  the  Government  by  thrifty  citizens 
for  a  'Forest  Reserve.'  The  Appalachian  Mountain  Club  has 


THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND  55 

built  gently  graded  paths  all  through  the  mountains,  so  that  inva- 
lids and  old  ladies  can  scale  the  most  precipitous  and  inaccessible 
peaks.  The  State  has  twenty-five  peaks  over  2500  feet  high,  and 
some  of  its  hotel  prices  are  even  higher,  but,  in  order  to  neglect 
none,  it  also  has  summer  resorts  at  a  dollar  a  day. 

The  'Old  Man  of  the  Mountains'  gave  its  name  to  the  Profile 
Notch  and  gave  inspiration  to  an  enthusiastic  New  Hampshirite 
to  write, — "Way  up  in  New  Hampshire  God  hung  a  gigantic  stone 
man  high  on  a  mountain  side,  to  indicate  that  there  He  makes  men." 
If  this  is  true,  this  is  the  earliest  case  of  hanging  on  record. 

New  Hampshire  was  early  a  pioneer  in  the  summer  resort  business 
and  today  shows  a  larger  turnover  on  the  capital  invested  than  any 
other  State.  400,000  summer  visitors  yield  her  an  annual  income 
of  $50,000,000, — her  most  prosperous  industry.  The  State  is  some- 
times advertised  as  'The  Switzerland  of  America'  because  of  its 
Presidential  Range  of  mountains.  Some  recent  booster  speaks  of 
the  State  as  the  "green  pharmacy  of  nature,  a  resting-place  for  the 
million,  as  well  as  for  the  millionaire."  There  is  something  about  the 
New  Hampshire  hills  that  produces  a  great  number  of  highly  suc- 
cessful farmers  who,  however,  migrate  in  the  winter  to  eke  out  an 
existence  in  Boston  or  New  York,  running  railroads  or  banks,  or 
manipulating  the  stock  market. 

VERMONT 

Vermont  and  Texas  are  two  States  that  have  something  in  common. 
Both  were  independent  countries  at  one  time,  with  a  more  or  less 
reputable  form  of  government.  Vermont  had  a  hard  time  breaking 
into  the  Union.  Congress  twice  refused  its  appeal  for  admission, 
though  the  Green  Mountain  Boys  had  rendered  valiant  service  at 
Bennington  and  in  the  capture  of  Ticonderoga  and  at  Crown  Point. 
In  fact  the  first  severe  blow  dealt  the  British  forces  was  at  Benning- 
ton. This  victory  led  to  Burgoyne's  surrender  and  established  the 
reputation  of  the  Continental  troops  so  that  France  recognized  our 
independence. 

Vermont  had  a  hard  time  of  it  in  those  years.  The  territory 
that  is  now  Vermont  was  claimed  by  both  Massachusetts  and  New 
York,  and  later,  when  New  Hampshire  was  set  off  from  Massachu- 
setts as  a  separate  royal  province,  New  Hampshire  made  even  more 
vehement  claims  of  sovereignty.  Governor  Benning  Wentworth,  in 
his  large-handed  way,  granted  to  prospective  land  exploiters  a  good 
part  of  Vermont,  always,  of  course,  reserving  a  portion  of  each  grant 
for  himself.  It  was  not  until  1791,  after  paying  New  York  $30,000 
blackmail  in  liquidation  of  all  her  claims,  that  Vermont  finally  broke 
into  the  Union  as  the  fourteenth  State. 

The  Green  Mountain  Boys  were  Connecticut  Yankees  transplanted. 
Vermont  might  well  be  considered  the  offspring  of  a  single  Connecti- 
cut county,  for  Ethan  Allen  and  a  good  part  of  his  'boys'  were 
natives  of  Litchfield  county.  When  a  government  was  established 
in  1777,  it  was  natural  that  the  State  should  take  the  name  of  'New 
Connecticut,'  but  a  year  later  some  poetically  minded  man  wished 
upon  the  State  a  Latin  name,  the  only  one  in  the  Union,  all  the  other 
States  having  good  Indian,  Mexican,  or  English  names. 


56  THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 

The  map  of  Vermont  is  thickly  spotted  with  the  names  of  Con- 
necticut towns  without  even  an  apologetic  'New.'  When  Massachu- 
setts men  transplanted  the  names  of  their  native  towns  to  New  Hamp- 
shire, they  had  the  modesty  to  at  least  prefix  a  'New'  to  'Boston '  or 
'Ipswich.'  The  first  Governor  and  forty-five  of  her  Governors  in  all 
have  been  natives  of  Connecticut.  Twenty-one  of  her  Supreme 
Court  judges  and  eleven  of  her  United  States  Senators  were  born  on 
Connecticut  soil. 

Vermont  is  a  wedge-shaped  State  with  its  narrower  end  toward  the 
south.  This  may  be  due  to  its  having  to  push  so  hard  to  get  into  the 
Union.  On  its  northern  boundary  is  Lake  Memphremagog,  with  a 
name  so  long  that  it  has  to  lap  over  into  Canada. 

Vermont  makes  four  fifths  of  the  maple  sugar  in  New  England, 
and  quite  as  large  a  proportion  of  its  tombstones.  The  sap  is  boiled 
every  Spring  in  the  upper  Deerfield  valley  and  in  almost  every  other 
part  of  the  State.  The  tombstones  hold  down  perpetually  the 
deceased  throughout  the  whole  U.S.A.  A  good  part  of  Vermont's 
mountain  ridges  are  of  solid  marble,  which  can  be  cut  into  memorial 
tablets  as  death  creates  a  demand. 

Vermont  originated  the  Morgan  mare  and  a  large  crop  of  Middle 
Western  statesmen.  All  of  her  native  sons  who  moved  to  the 
Middle  West  early  enough  seem  to  have  become  millionaires,  rail- 
road magnates,  or  at  least  United  States  Senators. 

Vermont  is  pre-eminently  a  dairy  state.  Taking  the  area  and 
population  into  account,  no  other  State  in  the  Union  is  in  the  same 
class  with  it.  Of  the  202  creameries  in  New  England,  107  are  in 
Vermont.  Even  such  distinguished  citizens  as  Theodore  Vail,  who 
only  play  at  farming,  maintain  a  dairy  to  uphold  their  reputation  in 
the  State. 

Vermont  is  public-spirited.  Its  people  have  pride  of  place.  Con- 
sidering its  wealth  and  sparse  population,  its  roads  are  perhaps  the 
best  in  the  Union.  It  was  the  first  State  to  have  an  educational 
survey,  and  the  committee  in  charge  wisely  turned  it  over  to  the 
Carnegie  Foundation,  thus  getting  a  thorough  job  instead  of  political 
jobbery. 

For  113  years  Walton's  Annual  Directory  and  Register  of  Vermont 
has  been  published.  This  brings  together  information  vital  to  all 
Vermonters  and  has  served  to  give  unity  to  the  interests  and  sym- 
pathy of  the  people.  In  all  that  century  the  great  and  wealthy 
Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts  has  not  yet  learned  to  do  the 
same. 

Vermonters  are  conservative  as  well  as  progressive.  Once  con- 
verted to  an  idea,  they  stick  to  it.  When  the  Republican  Party 
was  born,  it  appealed  to  the  voters,  and  since  then  the  State  has 
gone  Republican  'hell  bent  for  election.'  Only  once,  when  the 
still-born  Progressive  Party  came  forth,  did  they  show  even  a  doubt. 
In  1852  Vermont  went  prohibition  and  for  exactly  half  a  century 
remained  dry.  Even  today  most  of  the  rural  communities  are  dry 
enough,  though  public  opinion  is  sometimes  nicely  balanced.  The 
little  town  of  Glastonbury,  for  instance,  with  twenty-nine  inhabitants, 
at  the  last  election  voted  on  the  license  question,  yes,  2;  no,  3. 

Some  years  ago  a  master  at   Vermont  Academy  who  loved  the 


THE   STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND  57 

mountains  and  the  outdoors  undertook  to  impart  something  of  his 
own  enthusiasm  for  these  things  to  the  boys  under  him.  It  was  not 
long  before  he  had  them  taking  twenty-mile  hikes  across  country,  in 
their  week-end  vacations  traveling  halfway  across  the  State  to 
climb  some  new  peak.  Out  of  this  grew  the  Green  Mountain  Club, 
which  has  in  the  past  few  years  awakened  enthusiasm  for  pedestrian- 
ism,  inspired  hundreds  of  pairs  of  unused  legs  to  activity,  stimulated 
the  pride  of  the  whole  State,  and  built  some  150  miles  or  more  of 
mountain  trail  almost  through  the  length  of  the  state. 

The  man  was  James  P.  Taylor.  The  Green  Mountain  Club  did 
not  half  absorb  his  energies.  He  created  the  Greater  Vermont 
Association,  the  scope  of  which  is  as  wide  as  the  State.  Its  great 
result  has  been  to  awaken  pride  in  the  State  and  to  stimulate  every 
man,  woman,  and  child  Vermonter  to  work  for  the  common  weal. 
And  it  has  done  it.  Vermont  may  well  be  proud  of  having  the  only 
organization  of  this  kind  in  New  England. 

MASSACHUSETTS 

"God  save  the  Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts,"  proclaims  the 
Secretary  of  State  upon  every  official  occasion.  Of  course  it  isn't 
his  business  to  express  any  such  wish  for  neighboring  States  or  for 
the  whole  country,  so  he  doesn't  do  it.  The  careful  historian  would 
doubtless  tell  one  that  this  is  only  a  relic  of  Puritan  times,  wholly 
meaningless  today.  Yet  ministers  have  been  known  in  reading 
Thanksgiving  Day  proclamations  to  give  a  somewhat  sinister  and 
significant  turn  to  those  words  by  undue  accent  when  God  had  not 
in  his  infinite  wisdom  seen  fit  to  save  the  State  from  an  unworthy 
Governor.  But  this  self-centered  attitude  is  perhaps  characteristic 
of  all  Massachusettians. 

Massachusetts  is  first  in  so  many  things  that  a  list  of  them  all 
would  seem  like  a  reflection  on  the  rest  of  the  country.  The  achieve- 
ments of  the  old  Bay  State  are  so  great  and  varied  that  there  is 
some  reason  for  the  self-satisfaction  which  makes  her  rather  care- 
less of  rivalry  and  complacent  as  to  the  security  of  her  leadership. 

Massachusetts  leads  in  culture  with  a  capital  C,  not  the  German 
variety  with  a  K.  She  mothers  more  schools  and  colleges  of  national 
repute  than  any  other  State.  Not  that  she  has  so  many  colleges. 
Any  little  State  in  the  Middle  West  can  show  a  score  to  her  one. 
But  then  Harvard  is  in  Massachusetts.  The  State  spends  twenty 
millions  a  year  on  its  public  schools  and  in  spite  of  the  large  and  recent 
foreign  influx  has  only  a  little  over  five  per  cent  of  illiteracy.  But 
what  its  knowing  ones  know  makes  quite  unimportant  what  its 
ignoramuses  don't  know. 

Massachusetts  is  the  home  of  about  three  and  a  half  million  people, 
the  great  majority  of  whom  are  very  busy  making  things  for  the 
other  hundred  million  or  so  of  the  country.  It  probably  does  more 
in  proportion  to  its  size  and  says  less  about  it  than  any  other  State 
in  the  Union  and  yet  it  is  the  best  advertised  of  all.  It  'got  on  the 
job '  early,  and  has  kept  at  it  ever  since.  Even  the  people  in  Okla- 
homa and  Oregon  cannot  long  remain  unconscious  of  the  spotlight 
which  rests  upon  the  Bay  State. 


58  THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 

Massachusetts  has  the  most  interesting  history.  It  was  early 
appropriated  by  the  Puritan  and  Pilgrim  emigrants  who  came  here 
to  set  themselves  apart  from  other  men  who  were  not  so  good  and 
so  pious  as  they  were.  They  tried  hard  to  keep  out  all  wicked  inter- 
lopers. They  drove  out  the  Antinomians  and  the  Baptists,  they 
lashed  the  invading  Quakers,  men  and  women,  especially  the  latter, 
at  the  cart's  tail  from  town  to  town,  and  drove  them  in  dead  of  winter 
into  the  wilderness.  All  in  all,  the  State  has  done  queerer  things 
than  can  be  put  in  books,  but  it  never  burned  any  witches,  and  if 
you  dare  to  suggest  it  to  any  Massachusetts  man,  he  will  rise  up  in 
wrath.  They  hanged  them.  Brooks  Adams  in  his  "Emancipation 
of  Massachusetts"  remarks:  "Massachusetts  was  a  petty  state,  too 
feeble  for  independence,  yet  ruled  by  an  autocratic  priesthood  whose 
power  rested  upon  legislation  antagonistic  to  English  law."  The 
State  finally  broke  away  from  the  control  of  the  hierarchy  of  minis- 
ters who  "had  grown  arrogant  from  long  impunity." 

Massachusetts  was  the  chief  trouble  maker  for  King  George  III, 
"stuffy  old  drone  from  the  German  hive."  At  that  time,  Massa- 
chusetts had  the  two  only  citizens  on  whose  heads  George  III  thought 
it  worth  while  to  put  a  price.  But  John  Hancock  and  Samuel 
Adams  were  cautious  and  crafty  enough  to  save  the  King  from 
spending  his  money  so  foolishly. 

Massachusetts  once  seethed  with  Revolutionary  movements.  It 
had  the  habit,  like  a  South  American  Republic.  Shays'  Rebellion 
followed  close  upon  the  heels  of  the  war  with  Britain.  The  aboli- 
tion movement  started  here.  Massachusetts  gave  birth  to  Foreign 
Mission  Societies,  to  the  Societies  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to 
Animals  and  to  Children.  The  Pilgrim  Fathers  have  been  suffi- 
ciently exploited.  Of  the  Pilgrim  Mothers  little  has  been  said,  while 
other  mothers  are  more  famous.  Here  was  the  mother  of  all  Women's 
Clubs;  here  is  the  Mother  Church  of  the  Christian  Scientists.  Mas- 
sachusetts might  be  called  the  grandmother  of  Mormonism  for 
Joseph  Smith's  father  and  his  ancestors  lived  at  Georgetown,  Mass., 
before  he  moved  westward. 

Massachusetts  is  the  original  oriental  font  of  American  religions. 
Here  started  not  only  the  Simon-pure  brand  of  Unitarianism,  but 
also  the  now  widely  spread  and  happiness-securing  brand  of  Chris- 
tian Science.  New  Thought,  Esoteric  Buddhism,  the  Emmanuel 
Movement,  all  originated  in  the  Bay  State. 

One  of  the  chief  products  of  Massachusetts  is  statesmen.  They 
grow  wild  in  every  village,  but  are  easily  cultivated  and  transplanted. 
Sent  to  Washington  they  have  always  breathed  the  odor  of  sanctity 
and  protection.  Daniel  Webster,  though  born  in  New  Hampshire, 
hailed  from  Boston  and  drank  brandy  out  of  a  three-cornered  cup- 
board in  Marshfield.  In  one  of  his  perfervid  orations  on  his  native 
State  he  exclaimed, — -"Massachusetts,  there  she  stands!"  And  still 
she  stands — pat  in  most  things  in  spite  of  George  Fred  Williams, 
Charles  Sumner  Bird,  and  other  insurgents. 

Later  statesmen  have  carried  on  the  glorious  traditions,  and  Senator 
Henry  Cabot  Lodge,  the  Tsar  of  Nahant,  that  promontory  haunted 
by  the  well-attested  sea-serpent  which  any  one  who  has  taken 
enough  cordial  can  see  any  summer  day,  has  been  for  years  Senior 


THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND  59 

Senator  and  Chairman  of  Foreign  Relations.  During  recent  years 
he  has  shared  his  arduous  labors  with  other  millionaires, — Senator 
Crane  from  the  Berkshires,  who  makes  the  paper  for  the  govern- 
ment's money  and  Senator  Weeks  of  Hornb lower  &  Weeks,  the 
Boston  brokerage  firm.  His  place  is  coveted  by  'Honey  Fitz,'  the 
Anti-Good-Government-Association  Mayor  of  Boston,  who  is  ready 
to  carry  on  the  traditions  of  the  millions. 

Boston  is  the  Athens  of  America,  the  Hub  of  the  Universe,  and 
the  greatest  Irish  city  in  the  world.  Some  of  the  neighboring  mill 
towns  like  Lawrence,  Lowell,  and  Fall  River  ought  to  have  U.S. 
consuls  appointed  to  them.  Taken  in  all,  Massachusetts  is  the 
greatest  and  most  famous  State  in  the  Union,  and  the  self-praise 
which  'goes  a  great  ways'  has  been  genuinely  echoed  wherever  the 
fame  of  the  State  has  gone. 

RHODE   ISLAND 

Rhode  Island  is  a  small  body  of  water  almost  surrounded  by  land, 
and  a  large  part  of  its  land  is  entirely  surrounded  by  water.  The 
State  is  smaller  and  has  a  longer  shore  line,  excepting  Maine,  than 
any  other  State  in  the  Union.  It  has,  moreover,  the  longest  official 
name,  which  if  placed  on  the  map  would  stretch  across  the  Atlantic. 
The  "State  of  Rhode  Island  and  Providence  Plantations"  is  still 
the  official  title.  "But  where,"  asks  the  inquirer  after  truth,  "are 
the  Providence  Plantations?"  They  exist  in  the  preamble  of  the 
Constitution  and  in  certain  legal  forms  only.  Evidently  a  real 
estate  exploitation  which  never  materialized  was  here  forecasted. 

Some  of  its  territory  seems  to  have  drifted  far  away,  for  Block 
Island,  sixty  miles  to  the  southwest,  is  a  portion  of  the  county  of 
Newport.  Fisher's  Island,  on  the  other  hand,  though  only  three 
miles  from  the  Rhode  Island  mainland,  is  a  part  of  New  York  State. 
It's  a  wonder  the  Rhode  Islanders  did  not  swap  with  the  Dutch,  but 
the  latter  always  were  cautious. 

Rhode  Island  is  about  the  size  of  a  small  Western  ranch,  with 
an  extreme  length  of  forty-seven  and  a  half  miles.  It  is  the  most 
densely  populated  State  in  the  Union,  with  508  to  the  square  mile. 
Yet  one  fourth  of  the  State  is  woodland,  and  five  sixths  of  it  has  a 
population  of  less  than  fifty  to  the  square  mile.  Ninety  per  cent  of 
the  population  is  concentrated  in  one  sixth  of  its  area.  In  the  decade 
from  1899  to  1909,  Rhode  Island  had  a  greater  increase  (26.6%) 
than  any  other  eastern  State  except  New  Jersey. 

Narragansett  Bay  is  the  chief  asset  of  the  State,  making  possible 
both  Providence  and  Newport.  Verazzano,  its  first  European  ex- 
plorer, who  chanced  here  in  1520,  stayed  for  some  time  in  the  Bay 
in  friendly  converse  with  the  Indians  and  waxed  enthusiastic  over 
the  region  and  its  "five  small  islands  of  great  fertility  and  beauty 
covered  with  lofty  trees."  In  place  of  the  "lofty  trees"  we  now  have 
bare  rocks,  but  the  beauty  of  color  and  water  has  not  departed. 

Rhode  Island  has  always  been  different.  It  was  founded  by  the 
people  driven  out  of  the  Bay  Colony,  and  grew  through  an  influx 
of  Baptists,  Quakers,  Jews,  and  others  who  were  not  tolerated  in 
the  neighboring  regions.  "The  smallest  of  the  New  England  colo- 


60  THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 


nies  had  features  all  its  own,"  wrote  Francis  Parkman,  "the  rest 
were  substantially  one  in  nature  and  origin."  James  Bryce  says, — 
"Of  all  the  American  states,  Rhode  Island  is  that  one  which  best 
deserves  the  study  of  the  philosophic  historian."  She  ought  to  have 
her  historic  novelist,  too,  for  there  is  much  neglected  material  for 
romance.  The  "triangular  trade"  in  molasses,  rum,  and  niggers, 
the  eighteenth-century  feudal  life  of  her  lords  in  velvet  coats  on 
their  great  plantations  cultivated  by  slave  labor,  the  romance  of 
her  naval  heroes,  are  all  worthy  themes  unsung.  Eighteenth-cen- 
tury life  in  Rhode  Island,  especially  in  "South  County,"  had  much 
in  common  with  Virginia.  The  climate  and  soil,  the  flora,  wild 
rhododendrons  and  holly,  the  great  plantations,  must  have  floated 
up  from  the  southern  commonwealth  in  some  unrecorded  era. 

Rhode  Island's  Colonial  assembly  declared  its  independence  of 
Great  Britain  on  May  4,  1776,  two  months  prior  to  the  famous  Act 
in  Philadelphia.  Rhode  Island  fired  the  first  gun  against  the  domin- 
ion of  the  British  Crown;  the  first  blood  of  the  war  of  the  Revolu- 
tion was  spilled  in  Narragansett  Bay.  Four  years  before  Boston's 
'Tea  Party,'  six  years  before  the  Battle  of  Lexington,  the  men  of 
Newport  sank  his  Royal  Majesty's  armed  sloop  "Liberty,"  and  in 
1772  they  burned  H.  M.  S.  "Gaspee." 

Rhode  Island  was  the  first  State  to  create  a  navy  of  her  own. 
Its  command  was  turned  over  to  Abraham  Whipple,  who  fired  the 
first  cannon  in  the  Revolution,  June  15,  1775,  and  captured  the  first 
prize,  the  tender  of  the  British  frigate  "Rose"  then  off  Newport. 
The  State,  elated  by  its  success,  was  the  first  to  urge  upon  Congress 
the  establishment  of  a  Continental  navy,  and  Congress  designated 
Rhode  Island  to  execute  the  plans.  The  commander-in-chief  and 
three  fourths  of  all  the  officers  were  Rhode  Islanders.  The  State 
has  given  us  two  of  our  foremost  naval  heroes,  the  brothers  Oliver 
Hazard  Perry,  the  victor  of  Lake  Erie,  and  Matthew  Galbraith 
Perry,  who  opened  up  Japan. 

Rhode  Island  was  founded  as  a  "lively  experiment"  in  the  science 
of  government,  the  first  democracy  based  on  religious  freedom,  and 
absolute  separation  of  church  and  state.  This  was  too  fast  a  pace 
to  keep  up,  and  for  the  last  century  or  so  the  State  has  been  of  the 
most  conservative  tendencies. 

The  citizens  of  Rhode  Island  enjoy  a  limited  suffrage,  but  it  has 
been  their  custom  to  depute  minor  political  affairs  to  the  blind  boss 
Brayton,  and  its  national  affairs  have  been  generally  managed  by  its 
senior  senator.  With  such  training  it  is  no  wonder  that  the  late 
Senator  Aldrich  finally  became  the  General  Manager  of  the  U.S.A. 

If  Rhode  Island  is  not  soon  relieved  of  its  stigma  of  reaction,  it 
will  not  be  the  fault  of  the  present  "Governor  of  Rhode  Island  and 
Providence  Plantations."  Largely  to  his  credit  is  the  recent  record 
for  liberal  legislation  of  this  wealthy  little  Commonwealth.  There 
have  been  placed  upon  the  statute  books  a  parole  law,  a  juvenile 
court  law,  a  stronger  employers'  liability  law,  and  more  recently 
Governor  Beeckman  has  recommended  the  eliminatiQn  of  the  prop- 
erty qualification  for  suffrage. 


THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND  6 1 


CONNECTICUT 

Connecticut  extends  along  the  Sound  for  a  hundred  miles  on  the 
turnpike  between  the  great  'Commonwealth'  and  the  'Empire 
State.'  The  State  is  in  contact  with  Rhode  Island  for  forty-five 
miles  and  with  New  York  for  seventy-two.  Within  these  modest 
limits  lies  the  land  of  the  Connecticut  Yankee,  thrifty,  inventive, 
with  a  keen  eye  for  the  main  chance,  a  peddler  now  as  always. 
Before  the  Revolution  the  Connecticut  peddler  sold  his  goods  from 
Quebec  to  Mobile.  Today  not  a  country  in  the  world  escapes. 

The  etymology  of  Connecticut  is  interesting.  The  legend  runs 
that  it  is  derived  from  'connect'  and  'ticket,' — perennial  topics  of 
conversation  with  its  citizens,  especially  those  in  the  southwestern 
part  of  the  State  who  use  Connecticut  as  a  bedroom  and  live  in  New 
York.  The  usual  assumption  that  the  State  is  named  from  the 
river  seems  rather  paradoxical,  for  the  river  'connects'  nothing, 
though  it  certainly  does  'cut'  the  State  in  half. 

'The  Land  of  Steady  Habits'  takes  its  sobriquet,  the  'Nutmeg 
State,'  complacently,  knowing  that  without  the  thrift  and  inventive 
genius  which  gave  us  the  wooden  nutmeg  and  the  sawdust  ham,  the 
Connecticut  Yankee  could  never  have  produced  the  innumerable 
manufactures  that  now  carry  the  name  of  Connecticut  to  every 
country  on  the  face  of  the  globe. 

The  Connecticut  Yankee's  mind  is  inventive.  To  him  we  owe 
vulcanized  rubber,  the  cotton  gin,  the  Colt  revolver,  and  innumer- 
able other  things  handy  in  a  civilization  like  ours.  Connecticut 
holds  the  first  place  for  the  number  of  patents  issued  in  comparison 
with  the  total  population.  In  recent  years  there  has  been  issued 
annually  one  patent  to  every  thousand  inhabitants.  In  1912,  4251 
manufacturing  establishments  with  233,871  workers  produced  from 
$257,000,000  worth  of  raw  material  manufactured  products  worth 
$490,000,000.  Connecticut  produces  half  the  brass  of  the  country, 
two  thirds  of  the  clocks,  corsets,  firearms,  and  plated  ware. 

The  State  is  a  hive  of  industries,  and  since  the  war  boom,  of  muni- 
tions factories.  Bridgeport  now  prides  itself  on  being  the  American 
Essen.  Hartford  is  the  capital  of  the  State  and  of  the  insurance 
world.  Every  fire  alarm  is  heard  in  Hartford,  and  whenever  a 
wealthy  man  dies,  Hartford  weeps.  The  nineteen  fire  and  life  insur- 
ance companies  have  total  assets  of  about  $500,000,000. 

In  1614  Adriaen  Block  in  his  i6-ton  yacht  the  "Restless,"  which 
he  had  built  at  New  Amsterdam,  cruised  along  the  Connecticut 
shore,  poking  into  every  nook  and  cove,  and  sailed  up  the  "Quaneh- 
ta-cut"  river  as  far  as  Enfield,  where  he  found  a  village  of  the  Se- 
quins. Continuing  around  Cape  Cod,  he  met  another  Dutch  ship 
bound  for  Holland,  left  his  yacht,  took  passage  home  on  her  and 
organized  a  company  to  exploit  the  Connecticut  region. 

For  eighteen  years  this  company  monopolized  the  Connecticut 
river  trade  until  a  talkative  Dutch  skipper  in  Plymouth  harbor 
shortsightedly  told  the  Pilgrims  of  the  soft  snap.  It  was  no  time 
at  all  before  the  Pilgrims  sent  one  of  their  number  to  spy  out  the 
land,  and  that  doughty  adventurer  John  Oldham  came  along  soon 
after.  The  same  year  that  Harvard  College  was  founded  (but 


62  THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 


probably  not  for  that  reason)  there  was  a  great  exodus  of  Cambridge 
people  to  the  valley.  The  Dutch  failed  to  appreciate  their  new 
neighbors,  and  Knickerbocker's  History  describes  them  as  "a  squat- 
ting, bundling,  guessing,  questioning,  swapping,  pumpkin-eating, 
molasses-daubing,  shingle-splitting,  cider-watering,  horse-jockeying, 
notion-peddling  crew." 

Although  pre-eminently  a  manufacturing  State,  Connecticut  today 
produces  4,000,000  bushels  of  oysters,  and  $6,000,000  worth  of  to- 
bacco, an  average  yield  of  over  $300  to  the  acre.  Before  the  Revo- 
lution an  agricultural  state,  the  produce  of  her  soil  was  exported  to 
West  Indian  markets  in  her  own  bottoms.  Every  little  town  along 
the  coast  and  up  the  Connecticut  as  far  as  Windsor  not  only  had  a 
foreign  trade,  but  a  shipbuilding  industry.  The  War  of  1812  killed 
its  trade,  and  with  the  decline  of  agriculture  the  population  came  to 
a  standstill.  But  with  the  growth  of  factory  industries,  about  1850, 
immigration  began,  and  today  the  State  is  largely  populated  by 
Italians,  Greeks,  Russians,  and  the  nondescript  hordes  of  south- 
eastern Europe.  Poultney  Bigelow's  "  In  Darkest  Connecticut"  says : 
"The  Americans  have  disappeared  like  the  red  men.  The  overwhelm- 
ing majority  of  those  we  saw  by  the  roadside  here  were  Italians." 

Before  the  days  of  the  railway,  live  stock  which  provided  its  own 
transportation  on  the  hoof  was  an  important  export.  Great  herds 
of  mules  were  raised  and  driven  south  to  the  Virginia  markets. 
John  Randolph,  seeing  a  drove  of  mules  passing  through  Washing- 
ton, remarked  genially  to  Congressman  Tracy  of  Connecticut, — 
"Tracy,  there  go  a  lot  of  your  constituents."  "Y-es,"  said  Tracy. 
"Goin'  down  to  Virginia  to  teach  school." 

Not  only  did  Connecticut  supply  school  masters  and  school  mis- 
tresses who  went  all  over  the  country,  but  the  text  books,  too,  were 
of  Connecticut  origin.  In  addition  to  his  "Dictionary,"  Noah 
Webster  wrote  a  "Speller"  which  in  the  first  half-century  sold 
twenty  million  copies.  Jedediah  Morse  of  Woodstock  published  in 
1784  the  first  "American  Geography,"  which  after  mention  of  the 
" Great  American  Desert"  added  this  sage  remark: — "It  has  been 
supposed  that  all  settlers  who  go  beyond  the  Mississippi  will  be  for- 
ever lost  to  the  United  States." 

Connecticut  early  began  its  export  of  men  and  ideas.  Dartmouth 
College  is  a  Connecticut  institution  transplanted,  for  Eleazar  Wheel- 
ock  began  his  school  for  Indians  in  Williams  County  and  moved 
northward  to  New  Hampshire  as  pupils  became  scarce.  Connec- 
ticut has  given  citizens  and  soldiers  and  college  presidents  to  all  the 
Middle  Western  States.  The  first  Vermonters,  the  "Green  Moun- 
tain boys,"  were  nearly  all  Connecticutters,  from  Litchfield  County. 

Yale  is  the  daughter  of  Connecticut  and  the  'Mother  of 
Colleges.'  Yale  is  so  largely  patronized  by  the  sons  of  Yale  men 
that  her  prosperity  largely  depends  upon  the  rate  at  which  they 
propagate.  Perhaps  it  is  to  encourage  this  that  at  all  the  great 
Yale  celebrations  the  wives  and  children  are  so  much  in  evidence. 

All  this  was  recognized  on  the  facade  of  the  Connecticut  Building 
at  the  Chicago  Exposition  in  the  legend  above  the  entrance  to  the 
agricultural  exhibit  which  read,  "Connecticut's  best  crops  are  her 
sons  and  daughters." 


ROUTES 


HOW  TO  USE  THIS  HANDBOOK 

Towns,  places,  people  are  arranged  alphabetically  in  the  indexes. 
A  Town  and  City  Directory,  alphabetically  arranged,  lists  hotels, 
real  estate  dealers,  shops,  etc.,  of  interest  to  tourists. 

To  find  any  Route  consult  the  Key  Maps  on  the  inside  covers,  or 
the  Table  of  Contents.  The  routes  have  been  made  as  contin- 
uous as  possible  to  avoid  the  intricacy  of  hundreds  of  minor  routes. 

In  the  first  ten  routes  are  comprised  the  entrance  routes  and  those 
in  Connecticut.  In  the  second  decade  are  those  running  northward 
from  Connecticut,  the  great  east  and  west  routes  across  Massa- 
chusetts, and  the  minor  routes  radiating  from  Providence.  Routes 
in  the  2o's  have  to  do  with  Boston  and  the  shorter  excursions  there- 
from. The  3o's  are  the  remaining  longer  routes  from  Boston;  the 
4o's  are  New  Hampshire  and  Vermont  routes,  while  the  50*3  are 
Maine  routes.  The  longer  routes  are  divided  into  sections  between 
junction  points  with  other  routes,  each  section  having  its  mileage 
separately  given,  facilitating  combinations  of  sections. 

The  Key  Maps  on  the  front  and  back  covers  illustrate  the  general 
arrangement  of  the  routes.  The  colors  on  the  map  are  the  same 
as  the  color-markers  on  the  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts  along 
the  roads.  In  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut,  State  Highway 
Commissions  have  adopted  a  tricolor  system, — north  and  south, 
blue;  east  and  west,  red;  secondary  routes,  yellow.  In  New  Hamp- 
shire a  distinctive  color  is  used  for  each  State  Highway. 

The  text  of  the  route  descriptions  has  been  set  in  four  different 
types  enabling  the  reader  quickly  to  pick  out  routes  and  section 
headings,  towns  and  their  statistical  data.  Matters  of  antiquarian 
detail  and  of  lesser  interest  have  been  set  in  a  smaller  type  that  the 
hasty  reader  may  more  readily  pass  them  over.  Numerous  cross 
references  and  full  indexes  aid  in  following  a  subject. 

The  statistical  data  of  towns  in  boldface  italics  follows  a  fixed 
order.  The  altitude  (alt)  is  usually  taken  from  Gannett's  "Dic- 
tionary of  Altitudes  in  the  U.S."  (U.S.  G.  S.  Bull.  274).  Where 
not  there  given,  it  is  from  the  U.S.  G.  S.  Topographic  Atlas  Sheets. 
(Usually  the  altitude  of  the  railroad  station  or  the  town  center  is 
given.)  The  population  (pop)  is  in  every  case  from  the  U.S.  1910 
Census.  For  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  and  New  York  the 
State  Census  figure  of  1915  is  also  given.  For  lesser  towns  the 
population  is  that  of  the  township  (twp),  otherwise  for  the  in- 
corporated borough  or  city.  The  date  of  settlement,  or  else  of 
incorporation  (inc.),  and  the  Indian  name  are  usually  derived  from 
town  histories  or  verified  by  local  authorities.  Industrial  products 
(mfg.)  are  given  in  the  order  of  their  relative  importance.  The 
value  of  the  product  and  the  payroll  are  from  the  1910  U.S.  Census; 
in  Massachusetts  from  the  State  Report  for  1913. 

(64) 


R.  1.    NEW  YORK  TO  BOSTON.  233  m. 

Via  NEW  HAVEN,  HARTFORD,  SPRINGFIELD,  and  WORCESTER. 

The  main  entrance  to  New  England  from  the  south,  this  is 
the  chief  route  of  travel  between  New  York  and  Boston  and 
affords  an  almost  continuous  stretch  of  bituminous  macadam. 
The  country  traversed  is  of  great  and  varied  natural  beauty, 
including  the  shore  of  the  Sound,  'the  Connecticut  Valley,  and 
the  heart  of  Massachusetts,  a  region  of  great  wealth  and  in- 
dustrial activity.  Reference  to  the  key  maps  on  the  inside 
covers  and  to  the  Connecticut  and  Rhode  Island  route  maps 
will  suggest  many  variations  of  the  route  from  New  York 
to  Boston:  via  Danbury  and  Hartford,  Route  3  via  Pawling, 
Salisbury,  Pittsfield,  and  Springfield,  Routes  5  and  13;  from 
New  Haven,  via  the  shore,  New  London,  and  Providence,  Route 
2;  or  via  Durham  and  Middletown,  Route  la;  from  New 
London,  via  Norwich  and  Worcester,  Route  1 2 ;  from  Saunders- 
town,  via  Newport,  Route  2  n,  and  Route  32. 

The  route  follows  the  Old  Boston  Post  Road  from  New  Rochelle 
to  Springfield  with  only  slight  deviations.  The  road  naturally  was 
laid  out  on  the  course  of  the  old  Indian  trails,  which  the  early  settlers 
wore  into  bridle  paths.  From  Springfield  to  Boston  it  follows  the 
course  of  the  Old  Bay  Path.  The  first  mail  between  New  York  and 
Boston  was  carried  over  this  course  in  January,  1673.  As  the  chief 
line  of  communication  between  New  England  and  the  rest  of  the 
country,  it  played  a  thrilling  and  unique  part  in  Revolutionary  his- 
tory and  was  one  of  the  important  features  in  the  country's  early 
development.  In  1753  the  sites  of  the  milestones  on  the  Post  Road 
were  marked  by  Benjamin  Franklin,  then  Postmaster-general,  who 
measured  the  miles  by  the  revolution  of  his  wagon  wheels,  and  super- 
vised the  erection  of  some  of  the  stones.  Washington  followed  this 
road  when  he  took  command  of  the  Continental  Army  at  Cambridge 
in  1775  and  on  his  tour  of  New  England  in  a  coach  and  four  in  1789, 
just  after  his  inauguration.  It  has  been  marked  by  the  National  Society 
of  the  Sons  of  the  American  Revolution  with  arrows  and  notices, 
"Washington  Route."  Many  of  the  taverns  along  the  routes  preserve 
memories  and  relics  of  his  visits. 

Connecticut  and  Massachusetts  have,  following  the  earlier  lead  of 
New  Hampshire,  recently  instituted  a  system  of  marking  trunk  high- 
ways by  color  bands  on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts.  In  the 
two  former  states  a  tri-color  system  has  been  adopted, — red  designat- 
ing east  and  west  routes,  blue  north  and  south,  and  yellow  diagonal 
or  secondary  routes. 

Four  poles  are  banded  at  either  side  of  the  intersection  of  roads  to 
clearly  direct  the  traveler  along  the  main  route.  Between  intersec- 
tions color  bands  are  placed  to  define  the  route. 

This  system  of  color  bands  is  reinforced  by  arrow  direction  markers 
of  the  same  color  with  the  name  of  the  next  large  town  in  four-inch 
letters.  Occasionally  two  route  colors  are  carried  over  the  same 
section  of  the  road  for  short  distances.  For  illustrations  of  this 
system  see  map  on  front  cover  of  this  book. 

This  route  is  marked  by  red  bands  from  the  Connecticut  line  at 
Greenwich  to  New  Haven,  with  blue  bands  thence  to  Springfield,  and 
with  red  from  Springfield  to  Boston. 

(65) 


66  NEW   YORK— PELHAM   MANOR 

R.  1  §  1.     New  York  to  New  Haven.  74.5  m. 

Via  the  GRAND  CONCOURSE  AND  PELHAM  PARKWAY,  STAM- 
FORD, and  BRIDGEPORT.  STATE  ROAD  all  the  way.  Marked 
from  GREENWICH  to  NEW  HAVEN  with  red  bands  on 
posts  and  with  red  arrows. 

This  is  one  of  the  principal  motor  routes  in  America;  be- 
tween one  and  two  thousand  automobiles  pass  over  it  every 
day.  It  is  an  excellent  road,  stretches  of  block  pavement, 
asphalt,  and  oiled  macadam  alternating.  The  route  out  of 
New  York  as  here  described  follows  recently  constructed 
boulevards,  avoiding  the  Old  Post  Road  until  the  shore  is 
reached  at  New  Rochelle. 

The  Old  Boston  Post  Road  originally  commenced  at  the  Battery 
and  led  through  the  Bowery  and  along  what  is  now  Third  Avenue  to 
Harlem,  thence  through  Morrisania  and  East  Chester  to  New  Ro- 
chelle. As  this  district  is  now  practically  included  within  the  bounds 
of  New  York  City  there  are  many  streets  and  routes  laid  out  by  which 
New  Rochelle  is  to  be  reached,  which  are  preferable  to  the  rather 
sordid  modern  conditions  along  the  Boston  Road. 

Note.  The  following  is  the  best  exit  from  New  York  to  New 
Rochelle.  Other  ways  are  via  Boston  Road  following  more  nearly 
the  Old  Post  Road;  also  via  Queensboro  Bridge,  Flushing,  Broadway, 
and  the  North  Hempstead  Turnpike  to  Roslyn,  thence  along  the 
east  shore  of  Hempstead  Harbor  to  Sea  Cliff,  thence  by  ferry  to  New 
Rochelle  or  Rye,  or  via  the  north  shore  road  on  Long  Island  to  Port 
Jefferson  and  thence  by  ferry  to  Bridgeport. 

From  the  Plaza,  with  St.  Gaudens'  equestrian  statue  of  Gen- 
eral Sherman,  5Qth  St.  and  Fifth  Ave.,  or  Columbus  Circle,  5Qth 
St.  and  Eighth  Ave.,  the  winding  driveways  through  Central 
Park  are  followed,  keeping  to  the  left  of  the  Mall,  to  Webster's 
statue.  Thence,  keeping  to  the  right  of  the  reservoir,  follow 
Seventh  Ave.,  a  broad  boulevard,  to  i4$th  St.  Here  turn 
right  and  cross  Harlem  river  by  Central  Bridge,  with  a  sharp 
left  turn  into  Mott  Ave.  (5.0);  leaving  the  statue  of  General 
Franz  Sigel  on  left,  continue  on  Grand  Boulevard  and  Con- 
course; at  9.5  turn  right  into  Pelham  Ave.,  which  becomes 
Pelham  Parkway.  In  Poe  Park,  to  the  left  from  the  Con- 
course, is  the  Poe  Cottage,  where  the  poet  lived  (1846-49). 

In  the  struggle  to  live  within  his  means  and  to  find  pure  country 
air  for  his  invalid  wife,  he  moved  to  this  little  house  in  the  Bronx. 
Here  he  wrote  "Eureka,"  "Annabel  Lee,"  and  "Ulalume."  Although 
the  picture  of  a  raven  was  afterward  painted  on  the  gable  end  of  the 
house,  he  did  not  write  "The  Raven"  here,  but  in  an  old  house  in  West 
84th  St.  Opposite  the  cottage  is  a  bust  of  the  poet  erected  by  the 
Bronx  Society  of  Arts  and  Sciences. 

Above  is  St.  John's  College,  R.C.  The  route  leads  across 
Bronx  Park  where  are  extensive  zoological  and  botanical 
gardens  and  the  old  Lorillard  mansion.  (To  the  left,  White 
Plains  Road  and  Boston  Road  are  alternatives  to  New  Ro- 


R.  I   §  I.     NEW  YORK  TO   NEW   HAVEN  67 

chelle,  the  latter  being  the  shortest  route  and  offering  an  ex- 
cellent surface.)  The  Pelham  Parkway,  with  asphalt  block 
pavement,  is  the  only  road  in  New  York  City  restricted  solely 
to  motor  travel.  It  turns  left  into  the  Shore  Road,  across  the 
head  of  East  Chester  Bay,  and  so  connects  Bronx  Park  with 
Pelham  Bay  Park.  The  latter  is  the  largest  park  in  Greater 
New  York  and  has  over  seven  miles  of  waterfront  on  the 
Sound  and  Pelham  Bay. 

The  battle  of  Pell's  Point  in  the  Revolutionary  War  took  place 
within  the  present  confines  of  Pelham  Bay  Park.  On  the  left  of  the 
highway  connecting  the  Shore  Road  with  City  Island  a  large  boulder 
bears  a  tablet  with  the  following  inscription:  "Glover's  Rock.  ...  In 
memory  of  the  550  patriots  who,  led  by  Col.  John  Glover,  held  Gen. 
Howe's  Army  in  check  at  the  battle  of  Pell's  Point,  Oct.  18,  1776, 
thus  aiding  Washington  in  his  retreat  to  White  Plains.  Fame  is  the 
perfume  of  heroic  deeds." 

The  retreat  was  by  way  of  the  Split  Rock  Road,  which  leaves  the 
Shore  Road  to  the  left  just  beyond  the  City  Island  highway.  The 
split  rock  lies  west  of  the  road  to  which  it  gives  its  name  and  attracts 
attention  as  the  site  of  the  former  house  of  Anne  Hutchinson;  recall- 
ing her  turbulent  experiences  in  Boston,  her  expulsion  from  the  Massa- 
chusetts Bay  Colony,  and  finally  the  massacre  by  the  Indians  of  her- 
self and  her  family. 

In  the  Sound,  off  Pelham  Bay  Park,  are  City  Island,  a  rendezvous 
for  yachtsmen,  Travers  Island,  the  home  of  the  New  York  Athletic 
Club,  and  Glen  Island,  long  a  popular  excursion  resort.  To  the  south 
is  Fort  Schuyler  on  Throg's  Neck;  the  Havemeyer  and  Collis  P. 
Huntington  estates  are  near  the  end  of  the  Neck,  and  along  the  shore 
is  the  Westchester  Country  Club.  Within  the  club  grounds  stands 
the  famous  old  Ferris  house,  occupied  by  Lord  Howe  and  his  officers, 
one  of  whom  rode  his  horse  through  the  hall  from  front  door  to  back,  to 
prove  his  lord-and-mastery.  Mrs.  Charity  Ferris  is  said  to  have  pre- 
vented a  bombardment  of  the  house  by  walking  up  and  down  the 
veranda,  and  she  remained  at  home  during  the  British  occupancy, 
ostensibly  to  cook  for  the  officers,  in  reality  putting  valuable  informa- 
tion into  Washington's  hands  by  means  of  a  little  darkey  whom  she 
sent  to  the  village  on  'errands.'  In  the  distance  rises  the  great  steel 
arch,  joined  in  1915,  of  the  new  Hell  Gate  railroad  bridge,  by  which  a 
through  route  from  Boston  to  the  West  and  South  will  be  afforded 
via  New  York  without  change. 

16.0    PELHAM  MANOR.    Pop  1115  (1915).    Settled  1654. 

The  name  recalls  the  Pell  family  whose  classic  mansion  with 
its  stately  portico  still  stands  in  Pelham  Bay  Park.  It  was 
in  1654  that  Thomas  Pell  bought  from  the  Indians  this  large 
tract  of  about  9000  acres.  Yet  Pelham  Manor  has  only 
recently  begun  to  wear  an  urban  air.  It  is  a  highly  restricted 
settlement  in  spite  of  rapid  development,  and  the  houses  and 
grounds  show  expenditure  of  great  wealth.  The  country  here 
is  naturally  a  beautiful  one  with  wooded  hills,  rocky  ledges, 
and  parklike  areas  studded  with  magnificent  trees. 

The  route  continues  along  the  Shore  Road  across  a  narrow 
strip  of  Pelham  Manor  and  into  New  Rochelle,  curving  at  its 


68  PELHAM   MANOR— NEW   ROCHELLE 


end  to  the  left  into  Echo  Ave.  and  again  to  the  right  into  Main 
St.  Shortly  after  reaching  Main  St.,  at  its  junction  with 
Huguenot  St.,  is  a  monument  bearing  a  tablet  inscribed: 

"This  tablet  is  erected  to  indicate  the  'Old  Post  Road'  extending 
from  New  York  to  Boston,  originally  an  Indian  trail;  opened  by  Royal 
Commission  in  1672  as  the  road  to  New  England.  It  was  known  in 
Colonial  days  as  'The  King's  Highway.'  On  that  portion  called 
Huguenot  Street  within  this  city  are  located  the  sites  of  the  first  church, 
school,  tavern,  and  dwellings  of  the  ancient  village  of  New  Rochelle. 
Over  this  road  Paul  Revere  carried  the  news  of  the  battle  of  Lexing- 
ton and  General  Washington  hastened  to  take  command  of  the  Ameri- 
can Army  at  Cambridge  in  1775.  One  of  the  first  recognized  mail 
routes  in  the  colonies,  its  dust  was  hallowed  by  the  tread  of  Patriots' 
feet  all  through  the  war  of  the  Revolution." 

18.0  NEW  ROCHELLE.  Alt  72  ft.  Pop  28,867  (1910),  31,758  (1915). 
Westchester  Co.  Settled  1689.  Mfg.  scales  and  delicate 
weighing  machines,  speedometers,  motion  picture  films; 
printing.  Ferry  to  Sea  Cliff,  L.I. 

This  'city  in  the  country'  occupies  a  beautiful  stretch  of 
land  with  a  perfect  harbor  protected  by  the  long  peninsula  of 
Davenport  Neck  and  is  a  favorite  yachting  center  with  four 
yacht  clubs.  The  region  is  one  of  rapid  expansion  and  new 
houses.  Near  the  railroad  is  the  extensive  plant  of  the  Knicker- 
bocker Press.  The  Thanhouser  moving  picture  films  are  made 
here,  on  Main  St.  near  the  junction  of  Echo  Ave.  The  New 
York  element  for  the  most  part  occupies  several  residential 
parks,  among  which  are  Rochelle,  Neptune,  Beechmont,  Resi- 
dence, and  Wykagyl. 

The  College  of  New  Rochelle,  for  girls,  is  located  here;  the 
buildings  cover  more  than  a  block  between  Castle  Place  and 
Liberty  Ave.  Leland  Castle,  the  main  building,  was  erected 
about  1858  by  Smith  Leland  and  is  decorated  with  frescoes 
and  colored  marbles. 

New  Rochelle  is  a  favorite  haunt  for  Thespians.  Mrs. 
Vernon  Castle  is  a  native,  while  George  Randolph  Chester, 
the  creator  of  "Get  Rich  Quick  Wallingford,"  Eddie  Foy,  the 
Broadway  comedian,  and  Marc  Klaw,  the  theatrical  manager, 
reside  here.  John  Mason,  for  many  years  with  Mrs.  Fiske, 
and  more  recently  a  star  in  his  own  right,  and  also  Charles  H. 
Niehaus,  the  sculptor,  have  homes  in  the  neighborhood. 
Stella  Mayhew,  the  musical  comedy  star,  is  the  honorary  third 
assistant  'Chief'  of  the  Fire  Department. 

Overlooking  Echo  Bay  on  the  point  by  Hudson  Park  are 
many  of  the  estates  of  the  Iselin  family,  who  are  mainly  re- 
sponsible for  the  local  interest  in  yachting,  centering  in  the 
New  Rochelle  and  Larchmont  Yacht  Clubs.  They  likewise 
provided  funds  for  the  erection  of  St.  Gabriel's  Church,  R.C. 
Frank  X.  Leyendecker,  who  does  "Vogue"  covers  and  Arrow 
Collar  ads,  has  a  handsome  estate  on  Mt.  Tom  road.  Other 


R.   I   §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN 


69 


illustrators  identified  with  the  town  are  Coles  Phillips,  designer 
of  original  magazine  covers;  Kemble,  whose  'coons'  have 
delighted  a  generation;  and  the  late  Frederick  Remington, 
painter  of  cowboys  and  Indians,  who  lived  in  the  oldfashioned 
house  in  Remington  Place. 

A  monument  in  Hudson  Park  on  the  waterfront  marks  the 
place  where  the  first  Huguenot  settlers  landed  from  La 
Rochelle,  France.  This  bears  a  tablet  on  which  are  inscribed 
"  French  Huguenot  Family  Names  identified  with  the  History 
of  New  Rochelle  prior  to  1750";  many  of  these  are  borne  by 
residents  of  New  Rochelle  today. 


THE   TOM  PAINE   HOUSE,    NOW   THE  HUGUENOT  MUSEUM 

Some  miles  back  from  the  shore,  at  the  entrance  to  Wykagyl  Park, 
on  North  Ave.,  laid  out  in  1693,  anfl  beyond  Beechmont  Park,  stands 
the  house  of  'Tom'  Paine,  now  the  headquarters  and  museum  of  the 
Huguenot  Association  of  New  Rochelle.  This  is  on  his  farm,  pre- 
sented to  him  in  1784  by  the  State  of  New  York  for  his  services  in  the 
cause  of  American  liberty.  It  had  formerly  been  the  estate  of  a  Tory 
and  was  therefore  confiscated.  Before  the  house  stands  the  monu- 
ment placed  over  his  grave  in  1839,  surmounted  by  a  bust.  On  the 
same  land  stands  the  first  school  house  in  the  town,  more  than  a 
century  old. 

Thomas  Paine  was  the  son  of  an  English  Quaker  and  came  to  this 
country  in  1774.  In  1776  he  wrote  a  pamphlet  entitled  "Common 
Sense,"  urging  the  separation  of  the  colonies  from  the  mother  country. 
This  won  him  the  friendship  of  Washington,  Franklin,  and  other 
patriots.  His  pamphlet  "The  Crisis"  began  with  the  celebrated  line, 
''These  are  the  times  that  try  men's  souls."  Anathematized  by  the 
patriots  for  religious  views,  then  liberal,  which  would  today  be  con- 
sidered conservative,  he  was  refused  burial  in  consecrated  ground  and 


70  NEW    ROCHELLE— RYE 

was  buried  on  his  farm.  William  Cobbett,  the  English  political 
economist,  a  great  admirer  of  Paine,  in  i8ig  caused  Paine's  remains 
to  be  exhumed  and  carried  to  England.  His  resting  place  is  now 
unknown,  though  some  bones  and  clothing  were  brought  back  many 
years  ago. 

Some  distance  from  the  town  center  was  the  farm  of  Benjamin 
Fannel,  or  Faneuil,  one  of  the  earliest  settlers.  Benjamin  had  a 
brother  Andrew  in  Boston,  a  bachelor  and  wealthy  merchant,  who 
sent  word  that  he  would  like  one  of  his  numerous  nephews  to  come  and 
learn  his  business  and  become  his  heir,  with  the  one  proviso  that  he 
must  remain  single.  The  oldest  son  went,  but  disappointed  his  uncle 
by  getting  married.  Another  son,  Peter,  who  followed,  lived  up  to 
the  requirement,  became  his  uncle's  heir,  and  in  due  course — through 
thrifty  rascality  and  trade  in  rum  and  niggers — the  most  wealthy, 
powerful,  and  luxurious  merchant  in  Boston.  When  he  was  'fat  and 
forty'  he  fell  a  victim  to  feminine  charms,  but,  unsuccessful  in  his 
wooing,  remained  a  bachelor.  It  was  this  Peter  Faneuil  who  in  1741 
gave  Boston  her  marketplace  and  the  Hall  which  became  the  'Cradle 
of  Liberty.' 

In  1689  Jacob  Leisler,  a  resident  of  this  region,  became  interested 
in  the  persecuted  Huguenots,  who  had  been  driven  out  of  France  in 
1685  by  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes.  He  bought  from  John 
Pell,  the  manor-lord  of  Pelham,  6000  acres  of  land,  "to  have  and  to 
hold  .  .  .  unto  the  said  Jacob  Leisler  .  .  .  forever  yielding  and  paying 
unto  the  said  John  Pell,  his  heirs  and  assigns,  lords  of  the  said  Manor 
of 'Pelham  .  .  .  one  fat  calf  on  every  four  and  twentieth  day  of  June, 
yearly  and  every  year  forever — if  demanded." 

A  bronze  statue  on  North  Ave.  near  the  Paine  House  does  tardy 
honor  to  Leisler,  who  unjustly  suffered  death  by  hanging  in  1691;  the 
attainder  of  treason  against  this  victim  of  political  jealousy  was  after- 
ward removed  and  his  innocence  declared. 

The  first  Huguenot  settlers  came  here  in  1686  or  1687,  followed  by 
a  considerable  number  brought  from  the  West  Indies  the  next  year. 
It  was  still  popularly  known  in  Revolutionary  times  as  the  'French 
Towne.'  Dr.  Dwight,  writing  in  1818,  says:  "The  old  French  houses, 
long  buildings  of  stone,  of  one  story,  with  few  and  small  windows,  and 
high,  steep  roofs,  are  very  ill-suited  to  the  appearance  of  this  fine 
ground.  Nor  is  the  church,  built  by  the  same  people  in  the  same 
style,  at  all  more  ornamental.  There  are,  however,  several  good 
English  houses." 

The  towns  of  Larchmont,  Mamaroneck,  Rye,  and  Port 
Chester,  through  which  the  road  now  takes  us,  form  practically 
one  continuous  community  of  New  York  country  residents. 
Yacht  clubs  are  very  numerous  along  the  shore  here,  taking 
advantage  of  the  many  harbors. 

19.7  LARCHMONT.  Alt  42  ft.  Pop  1958  (1910),  2060  (1915). 
Westchester  Co. 

This  is  a  modern  town  wellknown  to  yachtsmen.  Its  yacht 
club  ranks  high  in  wealth  and  the  character  of  the  yachts 
representing  it  and  is  the  headquarters  for  social  gayety. 

On  the  right  upon  entering  the  village  is  the  massive  stone 
chimney  of  the  Disbrow  House,  built  in  1677  and  destroyed 
by  a  fire  about  thirty  years  ago,  in  which  Cooper's  hero  of 
"The  Spy,"  Harvey  Birch,  is  supposed  to  have  been  secreted. 


R.  I   §  I.     NEW   YORK  TO  NEW  HAVEN  71 

This  locality,  formerly  known  as  Munroe's  Neck,  became  the 
property  in  1845  of  a  Mr.  Collins,  who  called  it  Larchmont 
from  a  group  of  larch  trees  which  he  planted.  Larchmont 
Manor  is  to  the  south  of  the  road  on  a  broad  promontory 
ending  in  Umbrella  Point  on  the  west  side  of  the  harbor. 

Heathcote  Hill,  to  the  north  of  the  Post  Road,  is  now  cov- 
ered with  dwellings,  but  is  rich  in  both  historic  and  literary 
associations.  It  was  named  from  Colonel  Heathcote,  who 
built  a  large  brick  mansion  burned  before  the  Revolution. 
The  post-Revolutionary  Heathcote  Hall  is  now  a  road  house. 

In  1776  it  was  the  scene  of  a  surprise  attack  by  a  Delaware  regiment 
upon  the  Queen's  Rangers,  a  battalion  of  Loyalist  Americans,  who 
were  worsted.  This  is  interesting  as  an  occasion  where  Americans 
fought  Americans.  The  dead  were  buried  near  the  hill  in  a  common 
grave,  "Rider  and  horse. — friend  and  foe, — in  one  red  burial  blent." 

A  great-grandson  of  Colonel  Heathcote's,  Judge  DeLancey,  who 
succeeded  to  the  estate,  had  two  daughters,  one  of  whom  married 
John  MacAdam,  the  inventor  of  the  road  which  bears  his  name,  and 
the  other,  James  Fenimore  Cooper. 

Cooper  lived  for  some  time  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  and  here  were 
written  his  first  two  novels,  "Precaution"  (1820)  and  "The  Spy." 
The  scenes  of  the  latter  are  almost  wholly  in  this  'Neutral  Ground,' 
which  lay  between  New  Rochelle  and  Stamford,  where  were  respec- 
tively the  lines  of  the  British  and  the  Continental  armies. 

21.5  MAMARONECK.  Pop  5607  (1910),  7290  (1915).  Westchester 
Co.  Settled  1676.  Mfg.  raincoats. 

The  name  is  Indian  and  is  said  to  mean  "place  of  the  winged 
heart."  The  spelling  has  been  changed  seven  times  since  the 
white  men  began  to  use  it.  The  government  has  undertaken 
harbor  improvements  which  will  afford  shipping  facilities. 

Here  at  'Sunny  Gables,'  Blanche  Ring,  the  popular  actress, 
spends  her  leisure  days.  Beyond  the  village  to  the  right  is 
the  classic  Jay  mansion  with  tall  white  columns.  The  Jays 
were  Huguenots  who  bought  this  property  in  1745,  and  here 
John  Jay,  the  great  statesman  and  jurist,  spent  his  youth. 
Orienta  Point,  a  broad  peninsula  projecting  into  the  Sound, 
is  a  residential  region.  Here  is  Oaksmere,  Mrs.  Merrill's 
School  for  Girls. 

From  the  Mamaroneck  river  to  Rye  and  on  to  Port  Chester 
the  road  is  paved  with  asphalt  blocks. 

25.0  RYE.  Alt  49  ft.  Pop 3964  (1910), 5339  (1915).  Westchester  Co. 
Settled  by  the  Dutch  1640.  Indian  name  Apawamis.  A 
fashionable  New  York  residential  town.  Ferry  from  Oakland 
Beach  to  Sea  Cliff,  L.I. 

The  village  green  and  the  historic  Episcopal  parish  date 
from  1702.  At  the  junction  of  the  Post  Road  and  Purchase  St., 
near  the  colonial  Public  Library,  is  a  building  with  the  sign, 
"Village  of  Rye,  Municipal  Hall."  Originally  a  Post  Road 
tavern,  successively  known  as  The  Square  House,  Pennfield's, 


72  RYE— PORT   CHESTER 

and  during  the  Revolution,  Haviland's  Inn,  among  its  guests 
were  John  Adams,  on  his  way  to  attend  the  Continental 
Congress  of  1774,  Washington  on  his  New  England-  journey 
in  1789,  who  said,  "We  proceeded  to  a  tavern  kept  by  a  Mrs. 
Haviland,  at  Rye,  who  keeps  a  very  neat  and  decent  inn," 
and  Lafayette,  who  slept  here  on  his  way  from  New  York  to 
Boston  in  1824.  Christ  Church,  established  in  1695,  when 
the  Puritans  of  Massachusetts  and  New  Haven  looked  askance 
at  the  word  "Church,"  has  in  its  possession  a  chalice  and 
cover  of  silver  presented  by  Queen  Anne.  James  Fenimore 
Cooper  attended  its  service  for  a  time.  Rye  Seminary,  a 
boarding  school  for  girls,  is  one  of  the  oldest  schools  on  the 
Connecticut  shore.  Rye  and  Oakland  Beaches,  on  the  shore 
near  the  village  Park,  are  popular  local  resorts. 

The  Dutch  bought  this  region  from  the  Indians  in  1640,  but  it  re- 
mained a  debatable  land  and  some  Greenwich  men  about  1660  settled 
on  Manursing  Island.  In  1662,  at  the  Restoration,  they  made  this 
record  of  their  allegiance:  "That  inhabitants  of  Minnussing  Island  .  .  . 
therefore  doe  proclayme  Charles  the  Second  ovr  lawful  lord  and  king; 
.  .  .  We  doe  agree  that  for  ovr  land  bought  on  the  mayn  land,  called 
in  the  Indian  Peningoe,  and  in  English  Biaram  land,  lying  between 
the  aforesaid  Biaram  river  and  the  Blind  Brook,  bounded  east  and 
west  with  those  two  rivers,  and  on  the  north  with  Westchester  path, 
and  on  the  south  with  the  sea,  for  a  plantation,  and  the  name  of  the 
towne  to  be  called  Hastings."  A  most  religious  community  at  first, 
even  before  the  Revolution  it  had  fallen  from  grace  and  was  a  famously 
rakish  horse-racing  resort. 

Not  until  1671  was  it  safe  to  settle  on  the  mainland.  Then  Manurs- 
ing Island,  now  a  region  of  aristocratic  homes,  was  practically  de- 
serted. Some  of  the  new  settlers  of  the  mainland  came  from  Rye, 
England,  and  named  their  new  village  "Rye  within  the  Bounds  of 
Hastings." 

Leaving  Rye  the  road  forks  right  at  flagpole,  crosses  R.R., 
a  mile  further  on  leads  under  R.R.,  and  left  with  trolley  to 

26.7  PORT  CHESTER.  Pop  (Rye  twp)  12,809  (1910),  15,129  (1915). 
Westchester  Co.  Settled  by  1732.  Mfg.  bolts,  nuts,  gaso- 
line motors,  and  wood  molding. 

This  is  the  last  town  in  New  York  State,  the  boundary  line 
being  the  Byram  river.  It  is  a  region  of  parklike  expanses, 
great  oaks,  and  beautiful  residences,  and  has  been  a  favorite 
ground  for  real  estate  exploiters.  The  Methodist  Church, 
built  of  white  concrete,  is  a  remarkable  edifice  with  a  Russian 
cast  of  countenance. 

In  Colonial  times  it  was  known  as  Rye  Port,  as  a  ferry  was  operated 
here  even  in  1739  for  service  to  Oyster  Bay  on  the  Long  Island  shore. 
Up  to  1837  it  was  called  Saw  Pit  Landing,  from  the  shipyard  in  one 
part  of  the  settlement.  During  the  Revolution  the  Tories,  who  were 
numerous  in  these  parts,  endeavored  to  supply  New  York  with  food 
at  the  time  of  the  British  occupation,  but  their  attempts  were  brought 
to  nothing  by  the  activities  of  the  'whaleboat  men'  from  nearby  rivers 


R.   I   §  I.     NEW   YORK  TO   NEW   HAVEN  73 

and  brooks.  The  place  was  of  little  importance  until  the  railroad  was 
put  through  in  1848,  when  there  was  quickly  established  a  manufact- 
uring interest  which  remains  to  this  day. 

The  Byram  river  is  the  Connecticut  boundary,  finally  established 
only  after  almost  interminable  disputes  between  the  Dutch  and  Eng- 
lish and  later  between  the  Colonies  and  the  States.  Tradition  has  it 
that  the  river  was  originally  called  'Buy-Rum'  from  certain  trans- 
actions between  the  early  inhabitants  and  the  Indians.  Though  from 
here  on  the  country  is  a  part  of  New  England  and  under  Connecticut 
jurisdiction  it  is  still  a  region  of  New  Yorkers.  As  Poultney  Bigelow 
says:  "The  shore  line  of  Connecticut  is  a  marine  esplanade  of  costly 
residences  built  by  men  from  the  big  cities  and  the  factories  to  whom 
the  history  of  Connecticut  is  as  strange  as  that  of  ancient  Chaldea." 

"The  Coast  of  Yankee  Land  extends  from  Quoddy  Head  to  the 
Byram  river."  As  is  evidenced  by  the  narratives  of  the  early  settlers, 
Verazzano,  Gosnold,  Smith,  and  others,  this  coast  was  an  almost 
continuous  succession  of  Indian  villages,  thickly  populated  before  the 
pestilence  that  swept  them  away  just  preceding  the  settlement.  In 
Colonial  times  nearly  every  strategic  point  was  the  scene  of  fierce 
encounters  with  the  Indians.  Today  there  is  an  almost  uninter- 
rupted stretch  of  summer  seaside  residences  and  pleasure  resorts, 
and  each  portion  of  the  coast  has  its  own  particular  charm.  Hardly  a 
mile  of  all  this  thousand  miles  of  shore  but  is  now  held  at  real  estate 
prices  for  residences  and  hotels.  It  has  become  the  great  summer 
refreshment  place  of  the  nation,  attracting  colonies  from  Pittsburgh, 
Chicago,  St.  Louis,  and  beyond. 

Nearly  every  town  has  a  touch  of  civic  pride.  Each  has  its  soldiers' 
monument,  for  every  village  and  hamlet  took  its  share  in  the  Civil 
War  as  in  the  Revolution.  And  not  a  town  but  has  its  public  library, 
generally  memorials  of  some  son  or  daughter  who  feels  pride  in  the 
ancestral  home. 

Passing  from  New  York  into  Connecticut  we  leave  the  region  where 
the  county  is  the  administrative  unit  of  local  government.  In  New 
England  it  is  the  township.  Thomas  Anburey,  an  officer  under 
General  Burgoyne,  coming  here  as  a  captive,  notes: 

"Most  of  the  places  you  pass  through  in  Connecticut  are  called 
townships,  which  are  not  regular  towns  as  in  England,  but  a  number  of 
houses  dispersed  over  a  large  tract  of  ground,  belonging  to  one  cor- 
poration, that  sends  members  to  the  General  Assembly  of  the  States. 
About  the  centre  of  these  townships  stands  the  meeting-house  or  church, 
with  a  few  surrounding  houses;  sometimes  the  church  stands  singly. 
It  is  no  little  mortification,  when  fatigued,  after  a  long  day's  journey, 
on  enquiring  how  far  it  is  to  such  a  town,  to  be  informed  you  are  there 
at  present;  but  on  enquiring  for  the  church,  or  any  particular  tavern, 
you  are  informed  it  is  seven  or  eight  miles  further." 

The  Post  Road  generally  follows  its  oldtime  route,  but  in  portions 
has  varied  its  course,  particularly  as  bridges  made  possible  a  shorter 
route.  Following  the  Indian  trails  it  originally  went  around  ob- 
stacles. Then  the  county  roads  were  laid  out  more  regularly  on  prop- 
erty lines.  The  turnpikes,  beginning  about  1800,  were  generally  laid 
out  on  the  geometric  axiom  that  "a  straight  line  is  the  shortest  distance 
between  two  points,"  and  without  much  respect  for  gravity  went  to 
the  very  hilltops  in  pursuance  of  this  principle.  Within  the  last 
quarter  of  a  century  has  co_me  the  state  road,  built  by  practical 
engineers  who  recognize  gravitation  as  a  human  factor,  and  calculate 
grades  in  per  cents.  The  present  road,  then,  follows  only  in  general 
the  Indian  Trail  and  the  Post  Road.  From  this  point  it  is  marked  by 
red  bands  on  poles  and  posts  at  all  doubtful  points. 


74  GREENWICH 

29.7  GREENWICH.  Pop  (borough)  3886,  (twp)  16,463.  Fairfield 
Co.,  Conn.  Settled  1640.  Indian  name  Moakewego.  Mfg. 
belting,  woolens,  tinners'  hardware. 

This  beautiful  town  boasts  fifty  millionaires  and  is  second 
in  wealth  among  all  the  towns  of  the  country.  It  claims,  too, 
the  highest  land  within  a  mile  of  shore  between  Maine  and 
New  Jersey.  Beautiful  hills,  wooded,  rocky  dells,  and  an  in- 
teresting and  diversified  coast  line  broken  by  deep  harbors, 
early  made  this  a  favorite  place  of  residence  with  wealthy  New 
Yorkers.  From  an  oldfashioned  New  England  village  with 
an  historical  background  it  has  in  fifty  years  developed  into 
an  up-to-date,  bustling,  critical  city  of  wealth  with  all  the 
appurtenances  thereto.  The  cotton  merchant  who  did  most 
to  promote  the  present  prosperity  of  the  town  is  generously 
commemorated  in  the  Bruce  mansion,  Bruce  Art  Museum, 
and  Bruce  Memorial  Park,  the  latter,  on  the  shore  south  of  the 
railroad,  diversified  with  rocks,  salt  pools,  and  green  lawns. 
In  it  is  the  rock  cave  known  as  Addington  House,  which  during 
the  Revolution  was  used  as  a  place  of  concealment. 

Magnificent  estates  crown  its  hills  and  line  its  shores.  Belle 
Haven  is  the  abode  of  New  York  brokers  and  bankers.  In- 
dian Harbor,  Smith  Cove,  and  Greenwich  Cove  are  lined  with 
residences.  Field  Point,  well  out  from  the  shore,  is  perhaps 
the  most  exclusive  section.  Northward,  Rock  Ridge,  Edge- 
wood  Park,  and  Round  Hill  (500  ft)  are  dotted  with  resi- 
dential parks,  some  a  thousand  acres  in  extent. 

The  Post  Road  continues  along  the  ridge  through  a  resi- 
dential section;  the  business  center  is  on  the  lower  slope  to  the 
south.  Behind  the  Soldiers'  Monument  is  the  Congregational 
Church,  opposite  which  is  Millbank,  a  large  country  estate, 
once  the  home  of  'Bill'  Tweed,  the  political  boss  of  the  '6o's, 
now  the  home  of  Mrs.  A.  A.  Anderson,  the  philanthropist. 

North  Street,  the  old  'North  Way,'  runs  for  miles  along  the 
crest  of  a  ridge  and  leads  to  some  of  the  more  magnificent 
estates,  which  rival  those  of  Lenox  and  Newport.  Bordering 
on  it  are  the  estates  of  Frederic  W.  Lincoln,  Mrs.  Wm.  A. 
Evans,  the  house  a  copy  of  the  Petit  Trianon,  the  Zabruskie 
and  Grey  Villas,  and  Ely  Court,  all  of  which  have  a  broad 
view  over  the  Mianus  valley.  In  the  valley  are  the  estates  of 
John  Flagler,  Raymond  Boiling,  and  Emil  Boas.  On  Lake  Ave., 
running  north  from  the  Presbyterian  Church  along  another  ridge, 
are  the  estates  of  Wm.  Rockefeller,  Percy  A.  Rockefeller,  Isaac 
Phelps  Stokes,  John  R.  French,  and  Rosemary  Hall.  Six  miles 
out  is  the  i2oo-acre  estate  of  Edmund  C.  Converse,  the  steel 
magnate,  which  is  reputed  to  have  cost  $12,000,000. 

Greenwich  has  a  number  of  interesting  and  out-of-the-ordi- 
nary  private  schools.  The  Brunswick  School,  for  boys,  is  a 


R.   I   §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN  75 

model  of  its  kind.  The  Ely  School  for  Girls,  formerly  of 
New  York,  occupies  the  estate  known  as  Ely  Court  on  North  St. 
Rosemary  Hall  is  another  girls'  school.  Wabanaki,  the  Wood- 
craft School,  an  open-air  school  maintained  by  Mrs.  Charles 
Tarbell  Dudley  on  the  Stokes  estate,  is  now  building  a  model 
open-air  school  on  land  recently  purchased  from  the  estate  of 
Mr.  Ernest  Thompson  Seton  on  the  Round  Hill  Road.  The 
Fairhope  Summer  School  is  conducted  by  Mrs.  J.  F.  Johnson, 
who  has  developed  novel  and  promising  educational  methods, 
in  the  Greenwich  Academy  building  on  Maple  Ave. 

Putnam  Cottage  with  a  cannon  in  front  of  it  stands  on  the 
Post  Road  opposite  the  Episcopal  Church.  It  is  the  old  Knapp 
Tavern  dating  from  1731  and  since  1906  in  care  of  the  D.A.R. 
Within  are  Colonial  relics  and  portraits  of  'Old  Put.'  Just 
beyond  are  the  steps  recut  in  the  rocky  slope  when  the  D.A.R. 
erected  a  monument  in  1902  to  mark  the  site  of  Putnam's 
leap,  the  whole  locality  being  reserved  as  Putnam  Hill  Park. 

It  was  at  this  tavern,  the  legend  runs,  in  1779  on  the  morning  after 
a  dance  to  which  he  had  taken  pretty  Mistress  Bush  behind  him  on 
his  pillion,  that  Putnam  was  startled  by  the  cry  that  the  British 
cavalry  were  at  hand.  Dropping  his  razor  he  dashed  down  stairs, 
leaped  to  his  horse  and  was  away,  with  the  enemy  in  hot  pursuit. 
Hard  pressed,  he  left  the  main  road  and  raced  down  a  breakneck  rocky 
slope  in  which  were  cut  a  flight  of  steps.  However  this  may  be, 
Putnam,  who  was  in  command  of  the  Continentals  here,  was  sur- 
prised by  Tryon's  raiders.  In  his  own  words  he  reports,  "A  detach- 
ment from  the  enemy,"  including  1700  British  regulars  and  Hessians, 
"marched  from  their  lines  for  Horseneck  with  an  intention  of  surpris- 
ing the  troops  at  that  place  and  destroying  the  salt  works."  The 
next  day,  however,  Putnam  hastily  brought  up  reinforcements  from 
Stamford,  drove  out  the  British,  took  thirty-five  men  prisoners,  and 
captured  two  baggage  wagons. 

Cos  COB  (31 .2),  on  low  level  land  bordering  the  Mianus 
river,  was  formerly  known  as  Strickland  Plains,  and  now 
bears  the  name  of  Chief  Coscob  of  the  Indian  village,  where 
in  early  times  an  all-day  fight  broke  the  Indian  power.  Up 
the  river  is  the  estate  of  Ernest  Thompson  Seton,  which  he  has 
made  into  a  park  of  remarkable  beauty,  and  in  which,  as  one 
might  surmise,  the  animals  of  the  wild  find  a  pleasant  home. 
Here  too  lives  Julian  Street,  whose  flitting  ''Travels  at  Home" 
are  tinged  with  seriousness  of  insight. 

At  Riverside,  east  of  the  Mianus,  on  the  railroad  south  of 
the  Post  Road,  is  Thrushwood,  the  home  of  Irving  Bacheller, 
the  novelist.  The  beautiful  white  building  is  the  yacht  club. 

Sound  Beach,  also  shoreward  of  the  Post  Road,  is  the  Green- 
wich 'Old  Town,'  the  site  of  the  first  settlement.  From  the 
railway  a  residential  section  extends  south  on  a  long  J-shaped 
headland  running  two  miles  into  the  Sound,  and  enclosing 
Greenwich  Cove  in  its  sheltering  arm. 


76  GREENWICH— STAMFORD 

Settled  in  1640  from  Watertown,  Mass.,  this  location  had  previously 
been  the  site  of  an  important  Mohican  village.  The  English  settlers 
grew  indignant  at  the  Puritanical  government  forced  upon  them  by 
the  New  Haven  colony  and  in  1642  placed  themselves  under  the  Dutch 
government  of  the  New  Netherlands.  For  twenty-two  years  Green- 
wich remained  a  Dutch  patroonship  and  served  as  a  Gretna  Green  for 
eloping  couples  as  well  as  a  harbor  for  refugees  from  the  Connecticut 
Blue  Laws. 

In    1644    Captain  John    Underbill,    an   adventurer   who    had    been 
banished  from  the  Bay  Colony,  in  the  service  of  the  Dutch,  attacked 
the  stockaded  Indian  village  in  Strickland  Plain  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Mianus  river.     Between  six  hundred  and  a  thousand  braves  perished. 
The  twelve  survivors  captured  were  sold  into  slavery. 
"And  the  heart  of  Boston  was  glad  to  hear 
How  he  harried  the  foe  on  the  long  frontier, 
And  heaped  on  the  land  against  him  barred 
The  coals  of  his  generous  watch  and  ward. 
Frailest  and  bravest!  the  Bay  State  still 
Counts  with  her  worthies  John   Underbill." — WHITTIER. 
The  bodies  were  heaped  together  and  covered  with  rubbish,  forming 
mounds  long  visible  near  Cos  Cob,  from  which  have  been  taken  many 
arrow  and  javelin  heads  and  tomahawks. 

About  a  mile  from  Cos  Cob  on  the  Post  Road  is  Laddin's 
Rock  Park,  the  private  property  of  Mr.  William  L.  Marks, 
through  whose  courtesy  it  is  daily  open  to  the  public.  Laddin's 
Rock  is  a  steep  precipice  where  it  is  said  that  an  old  Dutchman, 
Cornelius  Labden,  coming  through  the  woods  on  horseback, 
was  pursued  by  three  Indians  on  foot,  and  rather  than  be 
captured  rode  his  horse  at  full  speed  over  the  precipice. 

35.0  STAMFORD.  Pop  25,128,  (twp)  28,386.  Fairfield  Co.  Settled 
1641.  Indian  name  Rippowams.  Mfg.  Yale  locks,  Blick- 
ensderfer  typewriters,  dye  stuffs,  extracts,  machinery, 
bronzes,  pottery,  chocolate,  furs,  camphor,  pianos,  insulated 
wire,  etc.  Daily  steamer  to  New  York. 

Stamford  is  an  important  industrial  center  and  has  for 
many  years  been  a  residential  town  for  New  York  business 
men.  The  residential  and  manufacturing  centers  are  so  far 
segregated  that  wealthy  New  York  commuters  live  here  for 
years,  scarcely  seeing  a  factory.  A  spacious  civic  center, 
dignified  public  buildings,  wealthy  residents,  and  beautiful 
estates  make  Stamford  with  her  seven  hills  and  her  varied 
shore  line  one  of  the  favorite  places.  The  recent  electrifica- 
tion of  the  New  Haven  R.R.  between  New  York  and  New 
Haven  with  over  eighty  trains  a  day  from  the  metropolis  and 
beyond  has  made  it  even  more  desirable  as  a  place  of  residence 
for  New  York  business  men.  Although  the  city  has  Con- 
necticut's traditional  diversity  of  industries,  Stamford  is  in 
other  respects  more  of  a  New  York  community.  Atlantic 
Square  on  which  face  the  beautiful  new  Town  Hall  and  the 
new  Federal  Building  has  been  the  business  center  since  the 
earliest  days. 


R.   I    §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN  77 

Among  the  artistic  and  literary  residents  are  Gutzon  Borglum, 
the  sculptor;  Henry  Miller,  the  actor,  whose  model  dairy  at 
Sky  Meadows  and  Sound  View  Farm,  are  famous;  William 
Long,  author  of  many  books,  who  inspired  from  Theodore 
Roosevelt  polemics  against  nature  fakers;  and  Bliss  Carman, 
author  of  "Songs  from  Vagabondia"  and  "Pipes  of  Pan." 

Shippan  Point,  extending  far  into  the  Sound,  was  the  site 
of  a  settlement  as  early  as  1640.  It  was  from  here  that  Major 
Benjamin  Tallmadge  by  a  night  raid  across  the  Sound  sur- 
prised and  captured  a  superior  British  force  at  Lloyds  Neck, 
L.I.  This  same  Tallmadge,  now  a  Colonel,  the  following  year 
caused  the  arrest  of  Major  Andre.  Shippan  Point  is  today  a 
place  of  beautiful  shore  residences,  the  Stamford  Yacht  Club, 
and  Miss  Low  and  Miss  Heywood's  School  for  girls. 

Toward  the  north  the  hill  country,  with  widespreading 
oaks,  is  thickly  taken  up  with  parklike  private  estates.  Straw- 
berry Hill  and  Ravonah  Manor  to  the  north  and  Hubbard 
Heights  to  the  west  are  favorite  sections.  Here  among  others 
is  the  intentionally  uncultivated  4co-acre  wildwood  estate  of  the 
distinguished  New  York  surgeon  and  naturalist  whose  cross- 
fertilization  of  nut  trees  has  produced  wonderful  results.  The 
hinterland,  with  ridges  rising  to  500  feet  running  north  and 
south,  between  which  flows  the  Rippowam  river,  is  one  of 
luxurious  country  seats  with  little  farmhouses  and  bungalows 
of  New  York  folk. 

The  rural  terrain  to  the  north  is  traversed  by  five  main 
highways  leading  off  toward  North  Stamford  and  New  Canaan, 
the  Long  Ridge,  High  Road,  Newfield,  Springdale,  and  Glen- 
brook  Roads,  two  of  which  are  traversed  by  auto-bus.  Stam- 
ford has  a  number  of  small  parks,  some  in  the  heart  of  the  city, 
but  its  pride  is  Halloween  Park  on  the  seashore,  which  in  ad- 
dition to  the  usual  park  features  has  boat  and  canoe  houses, 
bath  houses,  athletic  fields,  and  tennis  courts. 

The  segregated  manufacturing  center  on  the  harbor  front  seems  to 
manufacture  everything  from  pianos  and  play-o-graphs  to  motors  and 
mineral  grinders.  The  chief  industry  is  that  of  the  Yale  &  Towne 
Mfg.  Co.,  whose  extensive  works,  employing  5000  hands,  are  south  of 
the  railroad  and  near  the  station.  Here  are  manufactured  Yale  Locks  of 
every  kind  from  a  tiny  padlock  to  the  massive  bank  lock,  as  well  as 
builders'  hardware,  door  closers,  etc.  The  business,  removed  from 
Shelburne  Falls  (R.  15),  was  established  in  Stamford  in  1868  by  Linus 
Yale,  Jr.,  the  inventor,  and  Henry  R.  Towne.  Since  the  death  of 
the  former  in  1868  the  latter  has  controlled  and  directed  the  business 
and  has  been  a  pioneer  in  modern  scientific  management.  Among 
other  industries  are  the  Blickensderfer  Mfg.  Co.,  of  typewriter  fame, 
the  Atlantic  Insulated  Wire  and  Cable  Company,  and  the  Stollwerk 
Chocolate  works,  the  only  branch  of  this  foreign  corporation  located 
in  the  U.S.  The  Stamford  Foundry  Company  has  been  making 
stoves  and  furnaces  here  since  1830. 

In  1640  Captain  Turner  of  the  New  Haven  Colony  purchased  the 


78  STAMFORD— DARIEN 


land  hereabouts  from  the  Indians  for  a  consideration  of  sundry  coats, 
hats,  blankets,  wampum,  etc.  Various  deeds  were  duly  executed  and 
signed  by  the  local  Sagamores  with  their  '  marks.'  The  first  settle- 
ment was  made  in  1641  by  a  party  of  twenty-nine  from  Wethersfield, 
who  immediately  got  into  'hot  water'  with  their  New  Haven  neigh- 
bors. But  they  had  come  from  a  contentious  community  and  were 
well  able  to  weather  the  storm  of  protest  they  raised,  though  a  few  of 
less  hardihood  moved  to  Long  Island  to  enjoy  a  more  peaceful  life  under 
the  Dutch  rule. 

In  1657  the  town  issued  an  edict  against  "the  cursed  sect  of  heretics 
risen  in  the  world  which  are  commonly  called  Quakers,"  two  of  whom 
wandering  through  this  country  about  this  time  have  left  us  the  fol- 
lowing account  of  their  experiences:  "Came  yt  Evneing  to  a  town 
Caled  Stamford  in  Conacktecok  Colny — it  being  a  prety  large  bvt 
dark  town;  not  a  frind  living  in  all  yt  provence; — they  being  all  Rigid 
prespetrions  or  independents  ...  so  we  went  to  an  Inn.  I  asked  ye 
woman  of  ye  hows  if  yt  she  woold  be  willing  to  sufer  a  meeting  to  be 
in  her  hows.  She  said  yes,  she  would  not  deny  no  sivel  Company 
from  coming  to  her  hows  .  .  .  and  therfor  I  sent  those  frinds  yt  war 
with  us  to  go  and  invite  ye  peopel  to  come  to  our  inn,  for  we  ware  of 
those  people  Caled  quekers,  and  we  had  somthing  to  say  to  them," 
but  the  authorities  got  wind  of  the  meeting,  broke  it  up  and  drove 
them  out  of  town. 

For  more  than  two  hundred  years  Stamford  was  hardly  more  than 
a  hamlet  in  the  midst  of  an  agricultural  district,  yet  played  its  part  in 
local  and  Colonial  affairs.  On  the  memorable  Dark  Day,  May  17, 
1780,  great  fear  fell  on  the  Connecticut  Legislature,  then  in  session; 
and  in  anticipation  of  the  approach  of  the  Day  of  judgment  an  ad- 
journment was  moved.  Colonel  Abraham  Davenport,  "a  man  of 
stern  integrity  and  generous  benevolence,"  who  had  for  twenty-five 
years  been  in  the  State  Legislature,  arose  and  spoke:  "I  am  against 
an  adjournment.  The  Day  of  Judgment  is  either  approaching,  or  it 
is  not.  If  it  is  not,  there  is  no  cause  for  an  adjournment.  If  it  is,  I 
choose  to  be  found  doing  my  duty.  I  wish,  therefore,  that  candles 
may  be  brought."  The  brave  old  man  calmed  the  fears  of  the  legisla- 
tors and  the  session  continued.  Whittier  made  this  incident  the 
theme  of  a  poem  and  the  Davenport  Hotel  perpetuates  the  name. 

In  1838  Stamford  was  a  small  hamlet  of  but  700.  The  era  of  rail- 
road construction  a  decade  later  was  the  signal  for  a  remarkable  in- 
dustrial and  residential  development,  as  with  many  towns  along  this 
shore.  The  opening  of  the  first  factory  of  the  Yale  Lock  Company  in 
1868  marked  another  important  step  in  Stamford's  industrial  progress. 

Stamford  was  formerly  the  home  of  a  number  prominent  in  the 
theatrical  profession,  among  them  Lester  Wallack,  whose  place  was 
at  The  Cove,  A.  M.  Palmer,  whose  place  was  at  Stillwater,  and  the 
Frohmans,  on  Noroton  Hill. 

Note-  Eight  miles  to  the  north  of  Stamford  lies  the  quiet  vil- 
lage of  NEW  CANAAN.  This  is  one  of  the  modern  artistic  and  literary 
shrines  of  Connecticut.  Its  village  Green,  old  Colonial  houses,  meeting 
house  steeples,  and  Old  Mill  are  a  lure  to  which  many  lovers  of  peace 
and  quiet  respond  as  year-round  or  summer  residents.  There  is  a  lake, 
Wampanaw  by  name,  for  the  'compleat  angler,'  Indian  Rocks  have 
geological  fascination  for  the  would-be  scientist,  and  a  bit  of  bohemian 
flavor  and  democracy  lends  the  finishing  touch  of  romantic  effect. 

From  the  Square  in  Stamford  the  route  leaves  the  Town 
Hall  at  the  right,  following  the  red  markers.  To  the  north 
on  the  railroad  is  Glenbrook,  a  suburb  of  Stamford.  The  road 


R.   I   §  I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN  79 

crosses  the  Noroton  river  to  NOROTON  (38.0),  a  typical  New 
England  village.  Here  is  the  Wee  Barn  Country  Club  with 
its  famous  golf  course.  Bordering  the  road  is  the  Spring 
Grove  Cemetery.  The  systematic  arrangement  of  the  rows  of 
tombstones  of  the  old  soldiers  at  once  attracts  attention. 

The  country  is  hilly  and  wooded  with  outcropping  ledges. 
A  half  mile  to  the  right  is  the  old  Gorham  Tide  Mill  near  the 
shore,  to  which  the  farmers  for  centuries  brought  their  grain 
to  be  ground.  Beyond  is  Noroton  Neck,  long  a  region  of  sea- 
side residences.  The  houses  along  the  road  here  are  so  evenly 
distributed  that  it  is  difficult  to  tell  where  one  town  begins 
and  another  ends. 

39.5     DARIEN.    Alt  66  ft.    Pop  (twp)  3946.    Fair  field  Co.    Inc.  1820. 

Mfg.  pins,  pianos,  combs,  keys,  dairy  machinery,  etc. 
This  town  boasts  that  for  its  size  it  is  the  wealthiest  town  in 
Connecticut,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  estates  would 
justify  the  acceptance  of  this  claim.  Men  of  wealth  make  this 
their  year-round  home,  and  as  one  cleverly  expresses  it, 
"Whenever  I  am  in  town  you  will  find  me  out  here  in  the 
country."  Its  rural  inhabitants  have  been  accustomed  to 
pronounce  the  name  Dairy  Ann,  and  dairy  machinery  is  still 
made  in  the  village. 

The  present  square-towered,  porticoed  Congregational  Church, 
erected  in  1837,  bears  on  its  facade  a  D.A.R.  tablet  worth  reading. 
It  tells  how  while  services  were  going  on  in  an  earlier  church  on  the 
site,  in  1781,  a  band  of  Tories  surrounded  it  and  took  fifty  of  the  men 
prisoners.  With  their  venerable  pastor  at  their  head,  the  prisoners 
were  marched  to  boats  and  taken  to  Lloyds  Neck  on  Long  Island  and 
thence  to  the  Provost  Prison  in  New  York,  where  some  of  them  died. 
The  aged  pastor  would  have  shared  the  same  fate  had  he  not  been 
supplied  with  comforts  and  necessaries  by  the  mother  of  Washington 
Irving.  One  of  the  prisoners,  Peter  St.  John,  who  survived  the  brutali- 
ties, thus  relates  in  doggerel  verse  his  experience  of  the  Provost  Prison: 
"I  must  conclude  that  in  this  place 

We  found  the  worst  of  Adam's  race; 

One  of  our  men  found,  to  his  cost, 

Three  pounds  York  money  he  had  lost; 

His  pockets  picked,  I  guess  before 

We  had  been  there  one  single  hour." 

The  whaleboat  men  of  this  town  had  been  active  and  daring  during 
the  Revolution  in  their  attacks  upon  vessels  in  the  Sound,  carrying 
supplies  to  New  York,  and  making  raids  on  the  Tories  on  Long  Island, 
until  they  were  "hoist  upon  their  own  petard"  as  above  related. 

East  of  Darien  is  the  musical  and  literary  shore  colony  of 
Tokeneke,  exploited  by  a  corporation,  which  now  includes  in 
its  representative  membership  such  wellknown  people  as 
David  Bispham,  the  singer,  Richard  Le  Gallienne,  the  poet,  a 
retired  evangelist  of  world  fame,  a  Broadway  matinee  idol, 
playwrights,  and  a  sprinkling  of  men  whose  hobby  is  business. 

The  countryside  from  the  top  of  the  rocky  peninsula  to  the 


8o  DARIEN— NORWALK 

hills  of  the  hinterland  is  dotted  with  homes.  To  the  south  of 
the  Post  Road  nearer  the  shore  is  Rowayton,  prettily  situated 
at  the  head  of  Five  Mile  river.  Here  it  is  alleged  some  artists 
have  sequestered  themselves. 

43.S  NORWALK.  Pop  24,211.  Fairfield  Co.  Settled  1650.  Mfg. 
corsets,  shirts,  silks,  hats,  laces,  automobile  tires,  air  com- 
pressors, and  builders'  hardware. 

The  attractive  city  of  Norwalk  is  the  first  of  the  larger  Con- 
necticut towns  on  this  road  to  present  the  characteristic  New 
England  appearance,  with  the  three  white  meeting  houses  on 
the  elm-shaded  Green.  The  city  has  many  fine  specimens  of 
old  Colonial  domestic  architecture,  among  which  is  the  Royal 
James  Inn,  with  a  dignified  portico  and  lofty  wing.  Formerly 
there  were  as  many  Norwalks  as  Oranges  or  Newtons,  but 
in  1913  the  present  municipality  was  formed,  which  combined 
not  only  Norwalk,  South,  East,  and  West,  but  Rowayton  and 
Winnipauk.  It  is  a  public-spirited  community  with  a  live 
Chamber  of  Commerce  which  heralds  it  as  'The  Gem  City' 
and  as  'A  City  of  Parts.' 

Coming  into  the  town  the  Hospital  is  on  the  right.  At  the 
foot  of  the  hill  on  West  Ave.,  opposite  the  State  Armory  is  a 
beautiful  drinking  fountain  inscribed  by  the  D.A.R.  to  Nathan 
Hale,  with  his  last  words,  "I  regret  that  I  have  but  one  life 
to  lose  for  my  country."  In  the  disguise  of  a  Dutch  school 
master  he  took  a  boat  from  Norwalk  across  to  Long  Island, 
the  enemy's  country,  on  the  mission  which  resulted  in  his  cap- 
ture and  death. 

The  route  follows  the  trolley  past  the  Library  and  the  old 
Norwalk  Hotel,  built  in  1775,  a  famous  hostelry  in  the  old 
coaching  days,  when  it  was  known  as  the  Connecticut  House. 
Leaving  the  center  of  Norwalk  our  road  crosses  the  Norwalk 
river  and  ascends  the  Mill  Hill.  On  the  right  is  the  Town 
Hall,  built  in  1835,  a  squat,  red  brick  building  with  a  cupola, 
which  looks  like  a  little  old  school  house,  and  at  the  next  turn 
is  the  Green  mentioned  above. 

North  of  Norwalk  the  artists  have  congregated  at  Silver 
Mine,  and  here  lives  Solon  Borglum,  the  sculptor,  brother  of 
the  Stamford  artist.  On  the  outskirts  of  the  town  is  the 
Hillside  School  for  Girls,  some  of  the  buildings  of  which  have 
been  used  for  school  purposes  for  a  half-century. 

South  Norwalk,  south  of  the  Post  Road  on  the  main  line  of 
the  railroad,  on  the  good  harbor  furnished  by  the  broad 
estuary  of  the  Norwalk  river,  is  naturally  a  modern  industrial 
center,  whose  products  show  a  most  surprising  variety.  The 
secretary  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  gives  first  on  the  list 
the  interesting  combination  of  "oysters,  corsets,  and  air  com- 


R.   I   §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN  8 1 

pressors."  The  nationally  known  Cluett-Peabody  Company 
has  a  plant  here.  Here,  too,  is  the  R.  &  G.  Company,  known 
to  the  readers  of  women's  magazines.  The  Norwalk  Iron 
Works  Company  makes  air  and  gas  compressors.  Oystering 
is  an  industry  of  some  importance.  The  harbor  and  the  coast 
off  shore  are  studded  with  islands  which  add  to  its  beauty. 

Toward  the  Sound  there  are  beautiful  residential  sections. 
Roton  Point,  formerly  an  excursion  resort,  is  a  beautiful  spot 
with  rocky  headlands  and  sandy  beaches.  Here  is  the  Norwalk 
Yacht  Club,  and  further  out  on  Wilson's  Point  is  the  Knob 
Outing  Club.  Overlooking  the  Sound  is  the  half-timber  Eliza- 
bethan summer  residence  of  James  A.  Farrell,  president  of  the 
Steel  Trust.  The  so-called  Yankee  Doodle  House,  constructed 
1763,  was  the  home  of  the  Revolutionary  Colonel  Thomas 
Fitch,  locally  known  as  'Yankee  Doodle'  Fitch,  who  is  said  to 
have  incited  the  famous  verses. 

East  Norwalk  is  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  harbor,  with  a 
yacht  club,  country  club,  and  several  residential  sections  of  its 
own.  The  Roger  Ludlow  monument  marks  the  spot  where 
Ludlow  made  the  treaty  with  the  Indians  for  the  purchase  of 
the  territory  of  Norwalk. 

The  name  "Norwalk"  is  derived  from  Norowake  or  Norwaake,  an 
Indian  chief,  though  another  and  more  fanciful  explanation  is  that  the 
original  purchase  of  land  from  the  Indians  extended  a  day's  north  walk 
from  the  salt  water.  Roger  Ludlow  negotiated  this  bargain,  the 
'price'  including  the  usual  assortment  of  coats,  hatchets,  hoes,  also 
"  10  seizers,  10  juseharps,  and  some  3  kettles  of  six  hands  about." 
There  were  some  Huguenots  among  the  first  settlers;  in  a  record  pre- 
served of  the  date  of  1678  there  is  evidence  of  both  a  desire  for  educa- 
tion and  a  commendable  thrift,  and  "it  was  voted  and  agreed  to  hier 
a  scole  master  to  teach  all  the  childring  in  the  towne  to  learn  to  Reade 
and  write;  &  that  Mr.  Cornish  shall  be  hierd  for  that  service  &  the 
townsmen  are  to  hier  him  upon  as  reasonable  terms  as  they  can." 

It  was  at  the  mouth  of  the  Norwalk  river  that  Tryon  landed  his 
forces  July  10,  1779,  a  few  days  after  the  destruction  of  Fairfield.  A 
tablet  on  a  hilltop  north  of  the  town  marks  the  spot  where  according 
to  tradition  Tryon  watched  the  burning  of  Norwalk. 

Washington  has  left  us  a  description  of  the  Norwalk  of  his  time  in 
his  diary:  "At  Norwalk  ...  we  made  a  halt  to  feed  our  Horses.  To 
the  lower  end  of  this  town  Sea  Vessels  come,  and  at  the  other  end  are 
Mills,  Stores,  and  an  Episcopal  and  Presbiterian  Church.  .  .  .  The 
superb  Landscape,  however,  which  is  to  be  seen  from  the  meeting 
house  of  the  latter  is  a  rich  regalia.  The  Destructive  evidences  of 
British  cruelty  are  yet  visible  both  in  Norwalk  and  Fairfield,  as  there 
are  the  chimneys  of  many  burnt  houses  standing  in  them  yet.  The 
principal  export  ...  is  Horses  and  Cattle  .  .  .  salted  Beef  and  Port- 
Lumber  and  Indian  Corn  to  the  West  Indies." 

The  route  leaves  Norwalk  by  Westport  Ave.  and  follows  the 
red  markers  past  the  peat  swamp,  where  in  the  early  days 
robbers  lurked  to  rob  the  mail  coaches.  Just  within  the  West- 
port  town  line,  near  the  Country  Club,  an  old  well  marks  the  site 


82  NORWALK—F  AIRFIELD 

where  stood  the  tavern  kept  by  Major  Ozias  Marvin,  a  Revolu- 
tionary officer.  The  present  house  is  owned  and  occupied  by  his 
great-great-grandson,  John  J.  Marvin  2d.  On  Nov.  n,  1789, 
Washington  noted  in  his  diary:  "lodged  at  a  Maj.  Marvin's, 
9  miles  farther;  which  is  not  a  good  house,  though  the  people 
of  it  were  disposed  to  do  all  they  could  to  accommodate  me." 
The  Saugatuck  river  is  navigable  for  a  greater  distance 
than  any  other  stream  in  Fairfield  County,  and  as  there  was 
no  fordable  place  nearer  the  coast  than  Westport,  the  Post 
Road  here  runs  well  inland.  The  old  post  road  leaves  the 
present  road  through  the  village  at  Nash's  Corner,  and  con- 
tinues along  King's  Highway  to  the  upper  bridge  which  spans 
the  Old  Ford  where  the  British  crossed  on  their  way  to  sack 
Danbury  in  1777. 

46.8  WESTPORT.  Pop  (twp)  4259.  Fairfield  Co.  Settled  1645. 
Mfg.  cotton  twine,  buttons,  mattresses,  starch,  and  em- 
balming fluid. 

This  oldtime,  thriving  village  wears  an  air  of  quiet  leisure 
and  has  been  chosen  as  a  place  of  residence  by  a  colony  of  well- 
known  artists  and  literary  folk.  The  old  farms  in  the  sur- 
rounding country  are  rapidly  becoming  country  homes  of 
taste  and  culture.  The  former  sea  trade  ceased  with  the  War  of 
1812,  from  which  time  date  its  cotton  and  hat  industries.  In 
1805  John  Scribner  here  set  up  the  first  carding  machine 
operated  in  America. 

Opposite  Ludlow  Road  stands  the  Stringham  House,  one  of 
the  oldest  and  the  most  charming  houses  of  Westport.  Fol- 
lowing the  Washington  route  arrows,  we  come  to  the  ivy- 
covered  Trinity  Church.  To  the  left  is  the  simple  and  unique 
Colonial  house  of  Ebenezer  Jesup,  one  of  the  men  who  en- 
gaged in  sea  trade  prior  to  1812.  The  Jesup-Sherwood  Me- 
morial Library  is  the  gift  of  the  late  Morris  K.  Jesup,  the 
patron  of  natural  history  and  numerous  geographical  expedi- 
tions, as  a  memorial  to  his  two  grandfathers. 

At  Compo  St.,  opposite  the  Westport  Sanitarium,  stands  a 
granite  boulder  marking  the  site  of  the  first  skirmish  between 
the  English  and  the  Colonists  after  Tryon  landed  his  forces. 
A  bronze  statue  of  the  Minute  Man,  the  work  of  the  sculptor 
Daniel  Webster,  marks  the  place  where  the  Colonists  lay  in 
wait  for  the  English  on  their  return  from  Danbury,  and  the 
guns  at  the  point  on  the  beach  mark  the  British  place  of  land- 
ing. The  bathing  pavilion,  owned  by  the  town,  is  the  center 
of  amusement  and  town  pride.  Along  the  shore  roads,  as  on 
Compo  St.,  are  beautiful  gardens,  and  notably  the  estates  of 
Mr.  Lewis,  Mr.  Schleat,  and  the  perfect  example  of  formal 
Colonial  architecture  owned  by  Mr.  William  P.  Eno.  Here 


R.    I   §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN  83 

also  are  the  Bedford  estates.    Across  the  broad  lawns  before 
Mrs.  Bedford's  mansion  are  elaborate  sunken  gardens. 

From  Westport  the  route  continues  inland.     On  the  left 
is  the  tapering  spire  of  the  old  colonial  Congregational  Church 
at  Green's  Farms,  a  village  which  bears  the  name  of  one  of  the 
first   settlers.    Across  Sasco  Brook,   the    boundary  between 
Westport  and  Southport,  to  the  right,  opposite  the  Pequot 
Poultry  Farm,  stands  a  granite  monument  backed  by  willows, 
commemorating  the  great  swamp  fight  of  1637  in  which  the 
remnant  of  the  Pequots  who  had  fled  from  Mystic  were  sur- 
rounded by  Captain  John  Mason  and  his  men  in  what  he  calls 
a  "hideous  swamp,"  since  drained.     Twenty  were  killed,  but 
one  hundred  and  eighty,  mostly  women  and  children,  were 
captured  and  divided  between  the  Massachusetts  and  Con- 
necticut men  as  slaves,  many  being  sold  in  the  West  Indies. 
"Here  on  this  field  the  dusky  savage  felt 
The  iron  heel  of  Angle  and  of  Celt; 
For  English  Mason  and  Irish  Patrick  came, 
And  made  the  Pequot  nothing  but  a  name." 

SOUTHPORT  (51.0)  is  the  business  center  and  most  settled 
portion  of  the  town  of  Fairfield.  Sasco  Hill,  named  from  the 
Indian  Sasqua,  overlooks  the  harbor.  The  Pequot  Library  on 
the  Marquand  estate,  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Elbert  Munroe,  is  par- 
ticularly rich  in  rare  Americana.  The  Wakeman  Memorial, 
endowed  by  Miss  Frances  Wakeman,  is  a  handsome  building 
with  quarters  for  several  boys'  and  girls'  clubs. 

52.5  FAIRFIELD.  Pop  (twp)  6134.  County-seat  of  Fairfield  Co. 
Settled  1639.  Indian  name  Uncoa.  Mfg.  chemicals,  wire, 
rubber  goods,  aluminum,  automobile  lamps,  and  flat  silver 
and  tin  ware. 

Fairfield,  named  from  its  fair  fields,  in  Colonial  times  one  of 
the  four  largest  towns  in  Connecticut,  is  today  a  beautiful 
residential  town.  In  the  village  and  on  the  hills  are  many 
handsome  and  elaborate  estates  of  wealthy  New  York  families. 
Near  the  station  the  route  turns  to  the  right,  passing  the 
Memorial  Library  and  a  stone  fountain.  Just  north  of  the 
station  is  the  old  barrel-roofed  stone  powder  house.  Beyond 
the  Library  is  a  stone  set  by  "David  Barlow,  cidevant,  farmer, 
1791."  In  front  of  the  Town  Hall  stands  a  boulder  with  a 
bronze  tablet  recording  Tryon's  Raid,  July  7,  1779,  when  the 
Hessian  Yagers  returning  from  the  pillage  of  New  Haven 
burned  two  hundred  houses. 

"Tryon  achieved  the  deeds  malign, 

Tryon,  the  name  for  every  sin. 
Hell's  blackest  fiends  the  flame  surveyed 
And  smiled  to  see  destruction  spread; 

While  Satan,  blushing  deep,  looked  on, 
And  infamy  disowned  her  son." 


FAIRFIELD 


The  Town  Green  is  the  center  today  as  in  the  past.  Fronting  it 
stands  the  old  Sun  Tavern,  where  Washington  'baited  his  horses' 
and  tarried  all  night  Oct.  16,  1789,  on  his  Grand  Tour.  On  the  Green 
itself  stands  the  ancient  whipping  post,  now  serving  as  a  bulletin 
board.  The  town  records  show  how  one  and  another  offender  was 
sentenced  to  be  whipped  twenty  or  thirty  lashes,  or  to  be  confined  in 
the  stocks  three  hours  a  day.  Unseemly  carriage,  profanation  of  the 
Sabbath,  witch  work,  and  unlicensed  use  of  tobacco,  as  well  as  other 
crimes,  were  expiated.  On  the  west  side  of  the  Green  was  a  pond  in 
which  Mercy  Disbrow  and  Elizabeth  Clausen,  reputed  witches,  were 
thrust  to  determine  whether  or  not  they  were  daughters  of  Belial. 
The  records  tell  us  "that  they  buoyed  up  like  a  cork,"  positive  evi- 
dence to  the  onlookers  that  they  had  sold  themselves  to  the  devil. 


THE   HISTORIC   BURR   MANSION,    FAIRFIELD 

Benson's  Tavern  of  stage  coach  days,  now  a  private  house, 
still  stands  on  the  main  street.  This  was  a  favorite  stop.  The 
stage  changed  horses  at  Stamford  but  at  Fairfield  was  supper. 
Famous  travelers  have  sat  about  its  board, — Macready,  Edwin 
Booth,  and  Fanny  Kemble.  Souvenirs  of  distinguished  men 
decorate  the  walls  of  the  dining  room  and  in  the  living  room  is 
Peter  Parley's  chair. 

The  ivy-mantled,  gothic  St.  Paul's  Church  now  stands 
where  the  gaol  stood  until  the  burning  of  the  town.  The 
Norman  Church  opposite  is  on  the  site  of  the  original  log 
meeting  house  of  1640  and  five  successive  edifices. 

Southeast  of  the  Green  on  the  road  to  the  beach  lies  the 
ancient  God's-Acre,  entered  by  a  beautiful  stone  lich-gate. 
The  oldest  stone  bears  the  date  of  1687.  The  Silliman  monu- 


R.   I   §  I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN  85 

ment  commemorates  the  distinguished  family  which  in  suc- 
cessive generations  gave  many  sons  to  public  and  university 
life.  Here,  too,  are  buried  members  of  the  Burr  family. 

The  present  fine  old  Burr  mansion  on  the  main  street  is  the 
successor  of  the  one  burned  by  the  drunken  troops  in  spite  of 
Tryon's  written  protection  in  the  Sack  of  1779.  The  present 
homestead,  by  John  Hancock's  request,  was  patterned  some- 
what on  the  Hancock  mansion  at  Boston,  since  torn  down. 

In  Colonial  days  the  Burr  family  was  most  notable  in  these  parts. 
The  Burr  mansion  in  its  palmy  days  was  the  center  of  hospitality 
and  about  it  cluster  the  local  traditions.  It  was  built  about  1700  by 
Chief  Justice  Peter  Burr,  one  of  the  earliest  graduates  of  Harvard, 
and  stood  somewhat  back  from  the  village  main  street  under  a  canopy 
of  elms,  a  manorial  structure.  Its  oldfashioned  garden  with  an 
ancient  arbor-vitae  hedge,  dates  to  Colonial  days. 

Washington,  Franklin,  Lafayette,  John  and  Samuel  Adams,  and  Dr. 
Dwight  were  frequent  guests,  and  here  Trumbull  and  Copley  painted 
full  length  portraits,  still  preserved,  of  their  host  and  hostess.  After 
the  Battle  of  Lexington  in  June,  1775,  Governor  John  Hancock,  fleeing 
from  British  justice,  followed  his  affianced  bride,  Dorothy  Quincy,  the 
celebrated  belle  of  Boston,  who  sought  refuge  in  the  house  of  Thaddeus 
Burr.  The  gossips  say  that  while  John  was  in  Philadelphia  attending 
the  Continental  Congress,  Aaron  Burr,  a  handsome  youth  of  twenty, 
came  to  visit  his  cousin  Thaddeus.  There  at  once  began  a  flirtation 
which  greatly  disturbed  Hancock's  peace  of  mind,  as  his  letters  plainly 
show.  But  for  the  intervention  of  Aunt  Lydia  Hancock  it  might  have 
resulted  disastrously,  but  Aaron  was  packed  off  to  Litchfield  to  enter 
the  law  school  of  Judge  Reeve  (R.  6).  John  and  Dorothy  were  later 
married  here  in  the  old  house. 

On  the  Post  Road  is  the  Sherman  House,  the  spacious  resi- 
dence of  Judge  Roger  M.  Sherman,  nephew  of  the  Roger  who 
signed  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  He  willed  it  to  the 
Prime  Ancient  Society  for  a  parsonage.  It  is  known  as  The 
House  of  Sixty  Closets,  the  title  given  a  story  about  the  por- 
traits of  the  Judge  and  his  wife  which  still  hang  in  the  east 
drawing  room.  Today  it  is  the  home  of  the  Rev.  Frank  S. 
Child,  the  loyal  historian  of  the  countryside. 

There  are  many  fine  old  estates  in  Fairfield  and  the  neighbor- 
hood. Mailands,  situated  on  Osborn  Hill,  an  old  signal  sta- 
tion of  the  Indians,  is  the  extensive  country  seat  of  Mr.  Oliver 
G.  Jennings.  Verna  Farm  is  the  country  place  of  Hon.  Lloyd 
C.  Griscom,  former  Ambassador  to  Italy.  Round  Hill,  another 
Indian  signal  station,  is  a  commanding  eminence  belonging  to 
Mr.  Frederick  Sturges.  Sunnie  Holme  is  the  country  estate 
of  Miss  Annie  B.  Jennings,  and  has  gardens  that  are  among  the 
most  beautiful  and  elaborate  in  the  State.  The  house  of 
Hermann  Hagedorn,  a  poet  and  dramatist  taking  honorable 
place  among  the  younger  writers,  is  at  Sunny  top  Farm,  a  hill 
not  far  distant  from  the  place  where  the  first  President  Dwight 
wrote  poetry,  cultivated  strawberries,  and  conducted  his  re- 


86  F  AIRFIELD— BRIDGEPORT 

markable  school.  Waldstein  is  the  home  of  Mrs.  Mabel  Os- 
good  Wright,  President  of  the  State  Audubon  Society,  and 
author  of  numerous  works  of  fiction  and  books  on  nature. 

A  generous  friend  has  recently  given  to  the  State  Audubon 
Society  a  Bird  Sanctuary, — some  fifteen  acres  of  diversified, 
well-wooded  park  land  situated  on  the  edge  of  the  village, 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  Sound.  Near  the  entrance  is 
the  rustic  cottage  of  the  curator  and  opposite  is  the  quaint 
museum  filled  with  several  hundred  specimens  of  our  native 
birds.  The  Fairfield  Historical  Society  has  an  interesting 
collection  of  antiquities  and  rare  books  in  its  hall.  It  has 
published  some  fifteen  brochures  on  local  history. 

Fairfield  Beach,  extending  for  three  miles,  is  one  of  the  most 
attractive  along  this  coast.  Near  the  beach  is  the  Fairfield 
Fresh  Air  Home,  which  cares  for  more  than  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  city  children  each  summer  season.  Here,  too,  is 
the  Gould  Vacation  Home  for  self-supporting  women,  a  beauti- 
ful Colonial  estate  endowed  by  the  Gould  sisters.  Grover's 
Hill  projects  boldly  into  the  sea  on  the  east  of  Ash  Creek. 
This  was  the  site  of  a  fort  in  Revolutionary  times;  today  it  is 
a  private  estate,  Shoonhoven  Park,  containing  some  of  the 
finest  country  residences  in  Connecticut.  Ash  Creek  in  Colo- 
nial days  had  several  tide  mills  upon  it.  Here  it  was  the  British 
landed  the  night  they  captured  General  Silliman,  whose  house 
was  on  Holland  Hill.  To  the  east  is  Black  Rock  Harbor. 

In  1777  nine  Tories  crossed  the  Sound  by  boat  and  captured  the 
Continental  General  Silliman  and  his  son,  who  was  then  quartered  in 
his  own  house,  and  took  them  to  Oyster  Bay.  In  retaliation  a  few 
months  later  a  band  of  twenty-five  Southport  men  crossed  to  Oyster  Bay 
and  seized  the  Tory  Judge  Jones  and  a  young  man  named  Hewlett, 
while  a  dance  was  going  on  in  the  Judge's  house,  and  brought  them 
back  as  prisoners,  where  Mrs.  Silliman  entertained  them.  Later  the 
four  prisoners  were  exchanged. 

In  the  suburbs  of  Bridgeport  on  Fairfield  Ave.  at  the  corner 
of  Brewster  St.  is  a  milestone  inscribed  "XXM  to  NH,"  which 
being  interpreted  indicates  that  it  is  twenty  miles  to  New  Haven. 
Just  beyond  is  the  Protestant  Orphan  Asylum  and  the  Bur- 
roughs Home  for  Widows. 

Where  the  road  passes  under  the  railway  occurred  the  wreck 
of  the  Federal  Express,  fourteen  killed  and  forty  injured, 
July  n,  1911.  In  the  short  stretch  of  track  between  here  and 
North  Haven  the  New  Haven  Road  has  succeeded  in  wrecking 
five  trains  in  five  years,  with  a  loss  of  fifty-seven  lives  and  two 
hundred  injured. 

Passing  under  the  railway  we  come  to  the  winter  quarters  of 
the  Barnum  and  Bailey  circus,  now  owned  by  the  Ringling 
Brothers,  which  occupy  several  acres.  The  winter  quarters 
of  Buffalo  Bill's  Wild  West  Show  were  formerly  somewhere 


R.   I   §  I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN  87 

within  the  city  limits.  The  old  house  of  P.  T.  Barnum, 
America's  greatest  showman,  is  almost  opposite  Clinton  Ave. 
In  front  of  the  house  stands  a  statue  of  a  sea  god. 

Barnum  made  his  great  hit  in  1849  when  he  paid  $150,000  to  Jenny 
Lind  for  150  concerts,  a  figure  that  was  something  stupendous  for  the 
time.  Another  of  his  stars,  General  Tom  Thumb,  was  born  in  Bridge- 
port in  1832  and  weighed  nine  pounds  at  birth,  but  after  his  seventh 
month  he  ceased  to  jjrow,  and  remained  through  life  but  twenty-eight 
inches  high.  In  1863  he  married  Miss  Lavinia  Warren  of  Middleboro, 
Massachusetts,  who,  like  himself,  was  a  dwarf  (R.  31).  Barnum  starred 
General  and  Mrs.  Tom  Thumb  through  Europe,  where  they  were  re- 
ceived by  "all  the  crowned  heads."  One  of  the  Ringlings  married  a 
daughter  of  Barnum  and  inherited  the  circus  business. 

Barnum  was  a  great  benefactor  of  Bridgeport  and  through 
the  city  we  find  evidence  of  it, — Barnum  Public  School,  the 
Barnum  Building,  and  Barnum  Ave.,  so  that  Bridgeport  is  a 
sort  of  Barnum  Museum  itself.  Barnum  Institute  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Historical  and  Scientific  Society,  contains  col- 
lections, and  is  used  for  lectures.  But  his  greatest  gift  was 
Seaside  Park,  a  beautiful  tract  on  the  shore,  in  which  there  is, 
properly  enough,  a  statue  of  the  great  circus  man  himself. 

At  the  corner  of  Park  Ave.  opposite  St.  John's  Episcopal 
Church  is  a  beautiful  memorial  fountain  to  Nathaniel  Wheeler, 
the  originator  of  the  Wheeler  &  Wilson  Sewing  Machine. 

57.0    BRIDGEPORT.    Pop  102,054  (1910);  more  than  one  third  for- 
eign-born, Irish,  Hungarian,  German,  English.     One  of  the 
County-seats  of  Fairfield  Co.     Settled  1659.    Indian  name 
Pequonnock.    Port  of  entry.    Mfg.  firearms,  munitions,  sub- 
marines, machine  shop  products,  general  hardware,  corsets, 
graphophones,   electric  fixtures,   brass  and   bronze   goods, 
sewing  machines,  automobiles,  and  typewriters.     Value  of 
Product  (1909),  $28,909,000;  1915,  ???     Steamboat  daily  for 
New  York,  and  ferry  to  Port  Jefferson,  L.I. 
Bridgeport   today  brings  to  mind  war, — munitions,  shells, 
rifles,  and  an  ever-increasing  number  of  Bridgeport  million- 
aires, who  will  take  the  shine  all  off  Pittsburgh.     Bridgeport 
has  gone  sky-high  on  war  orders.     In  November,  1915,  it  was 
reported  that  Bridgeport  had  $200,000,000  of  war  orders,  with 
25,000  operatives  at  work  making  munitions.     In  six  months 
the  population  is  said  to  have  increased  from  102,000  to  150,000. 
The  Remington  Arms-Union  Metallic   Cartridge  Company  in 
the  latter  part  of  1915  erected  a  mile  and  a  quarter  of  new 
factory  buildings;  and  1200  buildings  for  two,  four,  and  six 
families,   at  a  cost  of  $8,000,000.     The  Lake  Torpedo  Boat 
Company  at  the  same  time  was  expanding  and  to  get  space 
dredged  the  channel  of  Johnsons   Creek   for  the   length  of 
1000  feet  and  width  of  200  feet  and  filled  in  the  marsh  for 
building   sites.     All   the   factories   were   running   twenty-four 
hours  on  eight-hour  shifts,  for  the  strikes  of  the  operatives  had 


BRIDGEPORT— STRATFORD 


won  them  the  eight-hour  day.  Even  the  corset  factories  were 
running  over  time  to  supply  the  domestic  trade,  for  the  supply 
from  France  had  been  cut  off.  The  city  fathers  were  worried 
at  providing  for  this  rapid  growth.  A  new  city  plan  had  just 
been  developed,  but  the  rapid  and  unexpected  development  of 
the  northeastern  part  of  the  city  had  put  the  carefully  devised 
plan  of  John  Nolen  all  out  of  key. 

Before  the  world  went  insane,  Bridgeport  was  a  manufactur- 
ing city  of  great  promise,  with  rather  more  than  the  usual  Con- 
necticut variety  of  industries.  It  had  already  justified  the 
title  of  'The  Industrial  Capital  of  Connecticut,'  now  it  claims 
to  be  'The  Essen  of  America.'  How  much  of  the  mushroom 
growth  of  1915  will  prove  to  be  permanent  and  beneficial 
remains  to  be  seen. 

Bridgeport  is  a  port  of  entry  with  a  daily  steamboat  line  to 
New  York,  as  well  as  a  good  coasting  trade.  The  harbor  is 
formed  by  the  estuary  of  the  Pequonnock  river  and  the  inlet 
of  Yellow  Mill  Pond.  Between  these  lies  the  peninsula  of  East 
Bridgeport,  the  site  of  many  factories.  The  manufacturing 
belt  also  extends  westward  along  the  railroad,  behind  which 
are,  successively,  the  wholesale,  the  retail,  and  the  residential 
districts  of  the  city. 

Old  Mill  Green,  once  the  village  center,  is  two  miles  up  the 
river,  east  of  the  ford  where  the  Post  Road  used  to  cross.  It 
is  a  widened  section  of  the  Post  Road,  Boston  Ave.,  at  East 
Main  St.  At  its  eastern  end  is  the  immense  Remington  Arms 
plant.  Near  here  are  a  few  relics  of  the  old  hamlet  of  pre- 
Revolutionary  days.  In  the  park  is  one  of  the  milestones  which 
marked  the  King's  Highway  of  1687,  the  Old  Post  Road,  now 
North  and  Boston  Aves.,  which  was  laid  out  on  the  line  of  the 
old  Indian  trail.  At  the  corner  of  East  Main  St.  and  Boston 
Ave.  there  is  found  still  standing  an  old  house  built  in  1700  by 
William  Pixley.  Six  generations  of  the  name  occupied  the 
house  which  was  Harpin's  Tavern  and  about  1840  became  the 
residence  of  Rev.  William  Silliman. 

'The  Park  City'  is  Bridgeport's  middle  name.  It  is  a  center 
for  athletic  and  outdoor  organizations;  among  these  are  the 
Bridgeport  Yacht  Club,  overlooking  Black  Rock  Harbor;  the 
Park  City  Yacht  Club,  on  Yellow  Mill  Harbor;  the  Roof  tree 
Club,  at  Lordship  Manor;  the  Sea  Side  Club;  the  Brooklawn 
Country  Club;  there  is  also  an  eighteen-hole  golf  course  at 
Beardsley  Park,  north  of  the  city.  Seaside  Park,  to  the  west 
of  the  harbor  entrance,  contains  several  monuments  and  is 
bordered  by  some  of  the  city's  handsomest  residences. 

When  the  first  settlers  came  here  the  Peguesset  Indians  of  this  locality 
had  a  village  of  more  than  a  hundred  wigwams  on  Golden  Hill,  which  is 
now  the  best  residential  section  of  Bridgeport.  In  1685  portions  of 


R.   i   §  I.     NEW  YORK  TO   NEW  HAVEN  89 

the  towns  of  Fairfield  and  Stratford,  on  either  side  of  the  Pequonnock 
river,  were  united  to  form  a  new  community.  In  1694  the  little 
settlement  was  known  as  Stratfield,  the  combination  of  Stratford  and 
Fairfield,  portions  of  which  were  separated  to  form  the  new  town. 
During  the  Revolutionary  period,  Bridgeport,  like  its  neighbor  New 
Haven,  was  a  privateering  center. 

Modern  Bridgeport  dates  its  career  from  the  bridging  of  the  Pequon- 
nock river  in  1798.  The  Post  Office  was  immediately  opened  and  the 
mail  from  New  York  was  brought  in  the  four-horse  coach  which 
arrived  at  the  close  of  the  day  when  it  set  out  from  New  York.  In 
1790  it  had  a  population  of  one  hundred  and  ten. 

The  industries  of  Bridgeport  began  with  the  Salt  Works  in  1800, 
and  after  the  opening  of 'the  railroad  in  1849  its  growth  as  an  industrial 
center  was  rapid.  The  sewing  machine  factories  of  Elias  Howe  and 
of  Wheeler  and  Wilson  were  among  the  first  manufacturing  plants 
opened  here,  the  former  dating  from  1863.  This  still  continues  to  be 
one  of  the  principal  industries  of  Bridgeport,  and  today  the  Singer 
Company  has  one  of  its  great  plants  here.  In  the  manufacture  of 
corsets  Bridgeport  leads  the  country,  more  than  10,000  dozen  a  week 
being  made  by  Warner  Brothers  alone.  The  Lake  Torpedo  Boat 
Company  and  the  Remington  Arms-Union  Metallic  Cartridge  Com- 
pany are  the  leading  war  babies.  Locomobiles,  Columbia  Grapho- 
phones,  Ives  mechanical  toys,  and  the  electrical  specialties  of  the 
Bryant  and  the  Harvey  Hubbell  Companies  are  other  interesting 
products.  Automobile  specialties  are  turned  out  in  great  variety  by 
several  factories.  This  is  the  home  of  the  Weed  Anti-Skids  and  the 
Raybestos  brake-linings. 

The  oyster  industry  of  Bridgeport  is  represented  by  three  of  the 
largest  propagators  and  growers  in  the  world.  The  steady  growth  of 
the  industry  dates  from  half  a  century  ago  when  oysters  were  first 
planted  in  the  Gut  outside  Bridgeport  Harbor.  Connecticut  was  one 
of  the  first  States  to  encourage  the  cultivation  of  oysters  through 
private  ownership  of  the  grounds;  property  in  these  underwater  flats 
is  recorded  and  taxes  levied  as  with  dry  land  real  estate.  Along  this 
coast  are  natural  oyster  beds  which  have  been  extended  by  planting. 
In  1902,  70,000  acres  were  under  cultivation,  65,000  of  which  were 
privately  planted  and  5000  natural  beds.  Large  fleets  of  boats  are 
kept  busy  working  and  watching  the  grounds,  and  contribute  greatly 
to  the  life  and  importance  of  Bridgeport  Harbor.  In  the  Bridgeport 
and  Stratford  'setting  grounds'  the  'spat,'  or  free-swimming  young 
oysters,  which  come  largely  from  Chesapeake  Bay,  are  planted  on  the 
flats  previously  strewn  with  oyster  shells  to  which  they  become 
attached,  or  'set.'  In  about  two  years  they  have  grown  to  market 
size.  They  are  then  placed  in  brackish  water  to  bleach  and  bloat  to 
satisfy  the  depraved  taste  of  most  consumers,  who  don't  know  the 
joy  of  'eating  'em  alive.' 

60.5  STRATFORD.  Pop  5712.  Fairfield  Co.  Settled  1639.  Indian 
name  Cupheag. 

This  quiet  country  village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Housatonic 
river  is  in  striking  contrast  to  its  busy  neighbor,  Bridgeport. 
Its  name  was  bestowed  upon  it  by  emigrants  from  Shake- 
speare's birthplace.  Many  of  the  houses  and  magnificent  elms 
antedate  the  Revolution. 

The  Blakeman  Memorial  Library,  as  the  tablet  states,  com- 
memorates Rev.  Adam  Blakeman  and  Deacon  John  Birdseye, 
who  established  the  first  settlement.  The  Weatoque  Country 


90  STRATFORD— MILFORD 

Club,  a  recent  organization  with  a  fine  new  club  house,  offers 
the  usual  non-resident  short  term  membership  to  visitors.  There 
is  a  nine-hole  golf  course,  tennis,  etc.  The  Housatonic  and 
the  Pootatuc  Yacht  Clubs  also  add  to  Stratford's  gayety. 

Inland  on  the  rising  ground  of  Putney  Heights  and  Oronoque, 
and  also  on  Stratford  Point,  which  extends  into  the  Sound,  are 
summer  homes  of  people  both  of  moderate  resources  and  of 
extreme  wealth.  There  are  pleasant  drives  up  the  Housatonic 
and  into  the  hinterland  beyond  the  Oronoque. 

In  1651  the  witch  epidemic  reached  here  with  the  result  that  poor 
Goody  Basset  was  hanged.  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson,  namesake  of  his 
celebrated  uncle,  was  the  first  Episcopal  rector  here,  from  1723  until 
i754>  when  he  resigned  to  become  the  first  President  of  King's, 
now  Columbia,  College.  He  lies  buried  here  at  Christ  Church. 
During  the  Revolution  the  church  was  closed,  as  the  minister  insisted 
on  reading  the  usual  prayer  for  the  king  after  the  Battle  of  Lexington 
and  dismissed  his  flock  when  they  protested. 

Two  of  the  most  famous  post  riders  were  Stratford  men, — Andrew, 
who  died  at  the  age  of  89,  and  Ebenezer  Hurd,  who  for  fifty-six  years 
before  the  Revolution  rode  fortnightly  from  New  York  to  Saybrook, 
never  missing  a  trip. 

Between  Stratford  and  Milford  are  several  little  inns  scattered  along 
the  road.      The  milestones  were   set  by  order  of  Postmaster-general 
Benjamin  Franklin.     Close  to  Milford,  on  the  left  of  the  road,  is  a  large 
rock,  on  which  is  incised  the  word  "Liberty,"  and  the  date,  "1766." 
This  was  done  by  Peter  Pierrott,  a  Huguenot  inhabitant  of  the  town. 
The  boulder  was  popularly  known  as  'Hog  Rock,'  from  the  gircum- 
stances  narrated  in  the  following  lines  from  an  old  ditty: 
"Once  four  young  men  upon  ye  rock 
Sate  down  at  shuffle  board  one  daye; 
When  ye  Deuill  appearde  in  shape  of  a  hogg, 
And  frightened  ym  so  they  scampered  awaye 
And  left  Olde  Nick  to  finish  ye  playe." 

65.0  MILFORD.  Pop  (twp)  4366  (summer  13,000).  New  Haven 
Co.  Settled  1639.  Indian  name  Wopowage.  Mfg.  straw 
hats,  vacuum  cleaners,  gas  meters,  car  trimmings,  and  auto 
windshields;  oysters  and  garden  seeds. 

The  long  elm-shaded  Green  bordering  on  the  Post  Road  for 
half  a  mile,  the  Colonial  meeting  houses  with  old  homesteads 
clustered  about,  and  the  mossy  stone  dam  of  the  mill  pond 
render  Milford  inimitably  quaint.  The  name  is  derived  from 
the  town  in  England  whence  the  early  settlers  came,  and  also 
from  the  ford  across  the  Wepawaug  where  the  first  grist  mill 
in  the  New  Haven  Colony,  erected  in  1639,  was  operated  for 
more  than  250  years. 

The  first  bridge  was  built  in  1640  on  the  site  of  the  stone 
Memorial  Bridge  with  the  tower,  built  in  1889  to  commemorate 
the  town's  25oth  anniversary.  It  is  a,  counterpart  of  one  in 
Milford,  England.  The  knocker  on  the  tower  door  is  from 
the  house  on  whose  porch,  in  1770,  George  Whitefield  preached; 
and  the  tablet  at  the  foot  of  the  tower  is  in  memory  of  Governor 


R.    I   §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN  91 

Robert  Treat.  The  present  mill  at  the  end  of  the  bridge,  built 
to  honor  the  275th  anniversary,  in  1914,  is  on  the  site  of  the  orig- 
inal Fowler's  Mill  established  in  1639,  and  the  millstone  by  it 
is  reputed  to  be  the  first  used  there,  roughly  dressed  by  the 
miller  to  serve  until  another  came  from  England.  The  old 
homestead  on  the  island  by  the  mill,  until  recently  in  possession 
of  a  descendant  of  the  first  miller,  William  Fowler,  is  now 
owned  by  Simon  Lake. 

The  first  tavern,  built  here  in  1644,  is  still  standing  on  the 
Old  Post  Road  just  west  of  the  First  Church.  In  1789  Wash- 
ington stopped  here  and  wrote  in  his  diary: 

"  From  the  Housatonic  ferry  it  is  about  3  miles  to  Milford.  .  .  . 
In  this  place  there  is  but  one  Church,  or  in  other  words,  but 
one  steeple — but  there  are  Grist  and  Saw  Mills,  and  a  hand- 
some Cascade  over  the  Tumbling  dam." 

A  little  way  down  Wharf  St.  to  the  right  is  the  Stephen 
Stow  House,  built  about  1670  by  Major  Samuel  Eells.  In 
1777  the  Stows  cared  for  250  sick  American  soldiers  who  were 
brought  from  a  British  prison  ship  in  New  York  Harbor  and 
suddenly  cast  upon  the  Milford  shore.  In  spite  of  watchful 
nursing  forty-six  of  the  unfortunates  died,  as  well  as  Mr. 
Stow,  and  were  buried  in  a  common  grave  in  the  old  grave- 
yard, where  a  shaft  of  Portland  freestone  commemorates 
them.  Pond  House,  erected  by  George  Clark,  the  first  to  be 
built  outside  the  Palisades  and  dating  from  1700,  is  on  the 
Bridgeport  Turnpike. 

Simon  Lake,  the  inventor  of  the  even  keel  submersible  sub- 
marine, lives  at  Milford.  His  "Argonaut,"  built  in  1897,  was 
the  first  craft  of  this  kind  to  navigate  the  open  sea  success- 
fully. He  has  been  retained  by  the  governments  of  England, 
Germany,  and  Russia  to  design  and  supervise  the  construc- 
tion of  many  submarines,  and  is  a  member  of  many  foreign 
societies  of  naval  architects  as  well  as  of  American  naval 
associations.  A  considerable  number  of  the  U.S.  submarines 
have  been  built  by  him  at  his  works  in  Bridgeport. 

Wilcox  Park,  formerly  known  as  Harbor  Woods,  is  a  part  of 
the  large  Indian  grant  containing  some  of  the  springs  which 
the  red  men  valued  so  highly. 

At  the  harbor  mouth  is  Fort  Trumbull  Beach  where  for- 
merly stood  an  earthwork  of  the  Revolutionary  period.  On 
its  site  is  The  Elms,  the  residence  of  Thomas  J.  Falls.  On  the 
westerly  side  of  the  harbor  is  the  Milford  Yacht  Club  House. 
The  shipbuilding  industry  flourished  until  the  harbor  silted  up 
in  the  beginning  of  the  last  century.  The  oyster  beds  have 
afforded  a  profitable  business  since  1752,  and  the  Sealshipt 
Oyster  Company,  which  has  wharves  and  packing  house  here, 


92  MILFORD 

is  reputed  a  profitable  stock  selling  scheme.  The  eighteen  miles 
of  shore  is  a  succession  of  beaches  and  popular  summer  resorts. 
Half  a  mile  off  shore  is  Charles  Island,  where  that  most  noted 
of  buccaneers,  Captain  Kidd,  is  reported  to  have  buried  at 
least  part  of  his  treasure.  As  it  is  readily  accessible  at  low 
tide  by  means  of  a  sand  bar,  hosts  of  people  spend  a  holiday  on 
the  island,  some  digging  vainly  for  pieces  of  eight,  but  most  of 
them  more  joyously  engaged. 

The  settlers  of  Milford  came  from  New  Haven  in  1639  by  the  In- 
dian trails,  driving  their  cattle  before  them,  while  their  other  posses- 
sions were  carried  around  by  boat.  The  land  was  purchased  from  the 
Indians  for  the  customary  barter  of  coats,  blankets,  hatchets,  hoes, 
knives,  mirrors,  and  a  kettle,  in  return  for  which  the  Indians  gave  the 
English  a  turf  and  a  twig,  seizin  in  token  of  the  surrender  of  the  soil 
and  all  that  grew  thereon. 

The  settlers  built  a  community  house  facing  the  Green,  where  they 
all  dwelt  for  a  time.  Their  earliest  records  of  1640  contain  the  fol- 
lowing resolutions,  put  forth  with  Puritan  seriousness,  unconscious  of 
their  sublime  egotism: 

"Voted,  That  the  earth  is  the  Lord's,  and  the  fulness  thereof. 
Voted,  That  the  earth  is  given  to  the  saints. 
Voted,  That  we  are  the  saints." 

There  was  Puritan  seriousness,  too,  in  their  observance  of  the  law. 
In  1649  Mr.  Birdseye  was  discovered  in  the  shameful  act  of  kissing  his 
wife  on  Sunday,  which  was  in  violation  of  the  law.  He  was  tried  on 
Monday  and  sentenced  to  the  whipping  post.  But  he  escaped  from 
the  town  officers,  ran  to  the  Housatonic,  swam  across,  and  from  the 
Stratford  side  shook  his  fists  at  his  pursuers.  His  wife  followed  later, 
and  they  lived  ever  after  in  Stratford,  where  they  begot  numerous 
descendants. 

Goffe  and  Whalley,  the  regicides,  were  concealed  at  Milford  at 
two  separate  times.  They  were  two  of  the  judges  who  signed  the 
death  warrant  of  Charles  I  and  both  were  related  to  Cromwell,  in 
whose  army  they  had  held  important  positions.  In  1660,  after  the 
restoration  of  the  House  of  Stuart  to  the  English  throne,  they  fled  to 
Boston  and  thence  to  New  Haven,  whither  they  were  pursued  by  the 
royal  messengers.  Thanks  to  the  sympathy  of  the  Deputy-governor 
Leete  and  the  New  Haven  magistrates,  they  were  concealed  in  the  old 
mill  at  Milford  for  two  days  until  a  place,  now  known  as  the  Judges' 
Cave,  was  prepared  for  them  at  West  Rock,  where  they  remained 
three  months  (p  93).  As  winter  approached  they  were  again  taken 
to  Milford  and  lived  two  years  in  secrecy  in  a  cellar,  dug  out  of  a  solid 
rock,  of  the  Tompkins  House,  which  formerly  stood  on  the  southeast 
corner  of  the  Central  School  grounds.  The  house  still  exists  but  has 
been  moved  from  its  former  site  (see  Hadley). 

The  mills  of  Milford  in  Colonial  times  were  of  considerable  im- 
portance; there  were  three  mill  dams  which  supplied  valuable  power. 
The  town  owned  large  flocks  of  sheep  and  for  nearly  a  century  paid 
part  of  their  expenses  with  the  profits.  Milford  also  carried  on  coast 
trade  and  commerce  until  1821.  Straw  hats,  oysters,  gas  meters, 
vacuum  cleaners,  hardware,  and  seeds  are  Milford's  products  today. 
Recently  it  has  become  the  distributing  center  for  the  Gulf  Refining 
Company. 

Note.  On  leaving  Milford  the  road  straight  ahead  at  the 
end  of  the  Park  leads  to  New  Haven  along  the  shore  via 


R.   I   §  i.     NEW  YORK  TO   NEW   HAVEN  93 

Woodmont  and  Savin  Rock,  the  latter  a  summer  amusement 
park  with  a  White  City.  Continuing  on  New  Haven  Ave., 
over  the  Memorial  Bridge  we  turn  into  Gulf  St.  South,  skirt- 
ing the  shore,  where  there  is  an  excellent  view  of  the  bay  and 
Charles  Island.  The  residence  of  Mr.  Clark  Wilcox  is  at  the 
left,  and  The  Piers,  the  residence  of  Mr.  Nicholas  Pond,  is  in 
front.  Turning  east  over  a  fair  country  road  the  route  enters 
Bay  View,  where  is  Schermerhorn  House,  a  fresh-air  resort 
maintained  by  Trinity  Church  of  New  York.  At  the  sign- 
board "  Morningside "  the  road  turns  sharp  right  and  follows 
the  shore  along  Far  View  Beach,  Bruwell's  Beach,  Debonair 
Beach,  to  Merrimans,  passing  on  the  right  the  beautiful  Italian 
villa  of  Mr.  Poli  and  a  succession  of  cottages,  and  continues 
through  Woodmont  and  Savin  Rock. 

The  direct  route  to  New  Haven  via  the  State  Road  turns 
left  at  the  end  of  the  Park  in  Milford  with  red  markers  through 
the  township  of  Orange,  this  portion  of  which  is  known  as 
West  Haven.  West  Rock  soon  comes  in  sight,  which,  like 
East  Rock,  on  the  other  side  of  New  Haven,  is  a  conspicuous 
landmark  for  miles  along  the  coast.  The  summits  of  both  of 
these  rocks  have  been  made  into  parks. 

Both  East  and  West  Rocks  are  abrupt  cliff-like  terminations  of  lava 
sheets,  which  in  the  case  of  West  Rock  continues  northward  as  a  long 
ridge.  Adriaen  Block,  the  Dutch  navigator,  sailing  along  this  coast 
from  New  Amsterdam  in  1614,  first  noted  these  landmarks,  and  be- 
cause of  their  reddish  appearance  he  named  the  place  Rodenberg,  or 
Red  Hill. 

These  lava  sheets  are  intrusive;  that  is,  as  molten  lava  they  flowed 
in  between  layers  of  sandstone  when  at  a  depth  below  the  surface 
(p  24).  Inspection  of  the  West  Rock  cliff  above  and  below  shows,  in 
places,  the  hard  baked  sandstone  indurated  by  the  great  heat.  The 
trap  of  these  rocks  is  very  dense,  of  the  kind  known  to  petrographers  as 
dolorite.  Its  thickness  is  about  200  ft.  On  the  face  of  the  cliff  the 
columnar  structure  is  plainly  visible,  due  to  the  contraction  of  the 
central  portions  of  the  lava  sheet  after  the  upper  and  lower  portions 
had  solidified. 

West  Rock  (405  ft)  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  Sound  and  the 
country  to  the  west  of  New  Haven.  Here  is  the  so-called 
'Judges'  Cave,'  a  cluster  of  rocks  in  which  Goffe  and  Whalley 
were  concealed  in  1661.  The  most  direct  road  to  the  Judges' 
Cave  lies  from  the  center  of  the  city  by  Whalley  Ave.  to  West- 
ville,  thence  past  Springside  Home  to  the  Park.  Whalley 
Ave.,  Dixwell  Ave.,  and  Goffe  St.,  all  leading  from  Broadway 
toward  West  Rock  and  the  Judges'  Cave,  are  named  after  the 
three  regicides.  An  excellent  road  with  a  gentle  slope  winds 
through  the  Park  to  the  cave  and  precipice.  On  the  face  of 
one  of  the  great  boulders  forming  the  cave  is  a  bronze  tablet 
bearing  the  inscription: 


94  MILFORD— NEW   HAVEN 

"Here  May  15,  1661,  and  for  some  weeks  thereafter  Edward  Whalley 
and  his  son-in-law,  William  Goffe,  members  of  Parliament,  General 
officers  in  the  army  of  the  Commonwealth  and  signers  of  the  death 
warrant  of  King  Charles  I,  found  shelter  and  concealment  from  the 
officers  of  the  Crown  after  the  restoration. 

"Opposition  to  tyrants  is  obedience  to  God." 

Marvelwood,  south  of  West  Rock,  is  a  fine  wooded  estate  of 
600  acres  belonging  to  Mr.  J.  M.  Griest.  The  group  of  hem- 
locks to  the  left  of  the  house  were  set  out  by  Donald  G.  Mitchell, 
known  to  the  world  as '  Ik  Marvel,'  the  gentle  author  of  "Dream 
Life"  and  "Reveries  of  a  Bachelor."  His  residence,  Edge- 
wood,  is  not  far  away,  on  Forest  St.,  Westville.  Edgewood 
Park,  at  the  end  of  Edgewood  Ave.,  is  a  pleasant  spot  between 
West  Rock  and  Yale  Athletic  Field,  with  elaborate  gardens. 

Nearer  New  Haven,  on  the  left,  is  Yale  Athletic  Field,  the 
huge  Yale  Bowl,  with  a  seating  capacity  for  67,000  spectators. 
Its  external  appearance  is  not  so  impressive  as  would  be  ex- 
pected from  these  figures,  owing  to  its  being  excavated  from  or 
half  sunk  in  the  ground.  The  true  size  is  only  apparent  when 
it  is  seen  from  within.  Yale  had  the  Bowl  ready  for  the  dedi- 
cation in  November,  1914,  when  Harvard  supplied  'punch' 
(Score  36-0).  On  October  21  an  historical  pageant  will  be  held 
here  to  celebrate  the  2ooth  anniversary  of  the  coming  of  Yale 
to  New  Haven. 

We  enter  New  Haven  by  way  of  Davenport  and  College 
Sts.  At  the  corner  of  the  Green  stands  the  Hotel  Taft  oppo- 
site the  entrance  to  Yale  College  Grounds. 

74.5  NEW  HAVEN.  Pop  133,605  (1910);  one  fourth  foreign-born, 
Irish,  Italian,  German,  Russian,  Swede.  County-seat  of  New 
Haven  Co.  Settled  1638.  Indian  name  Quinnipiac.  Port 
of  Entry.  Seat  of  Yale  University.  800  manufacturing  es- 
tablishments: Value  of  Product,  $51,000,000;  Payroll, 
$16,000,000.  Mfg.  firearms  and  ammunition,  rubber  goods, 
hardware,  clocks,  plumbers'  supplies,  tooth  paste,  corsets, 
underwear,  automobile  bodies  and  carriages,  auto  specialties, 
machine  shop  products,  wire,  etc.  Steamships  to  New  York; 
ferry  to  Port  Jefferson,  L.I. 

New  Haven,  the  seat  of  Yale  University  and  a  great  indus- 
trial center,  second  only  to  Bridgeport  in  the  value  of  its 
factory  products,  has  long  been  the  principal  city  of  Connecti- 
cut, though  Hartford  rivals  it  closely  in  population  and 
Bridgeport  with  its  recent  mushroom  growth  has  perhaps 
surpassed  it.  It  is  built  on  a  level  sandy  plain  between 
East  Rock  and  West  Rock,  which  stand  up  like  sentinels  on 
either  side,  giving  a  setting  unique  among  American  cities. 
The  city  lies  about  four  miles  from  the  Sound,  and  its  harbor 
has  a  twenty-foot  channel  with  considerable  coastwise  com- 
merce. The  head  offices  of  the  New  Haven  railroad  are  lo- 
cated here,  six  divisions  of  which  radiate  north,  east,  and  west. 


R.   I   §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN  95 

The  city  centers  at  the  Green,  altogether  its  most  striking 
and  interesting  physical  feature.  Aside  from  Boston  Common 
it  presents  the  most  characteristic  New  England  scene  to  be 
found  in  any  large  city.  The  Green  is  a  sixteen-acre  square, 
around  which  was  the  original  settlement.  Until  recently  it 
was  shaded  by  such  magnificent  elms  as  gave  New  Haven  the 
name  of  'The  Elm  City.'  The  elms  have  now  largely  disap- 
peared, killed  by  elm-leaf  beetles  and  neglect.  On  the  Green 
stand  the  three  oldest  churches  of  the  community,  built  about 
one  hundred  years  ago,  interesting  types  of  New  England 
meeting  house  architecture.  Here  on  a  Sunday  morning  the 
gathering  of  the  people  to  the  three  churches  while  the  bells 
are  'ringing  them  in'  still  presents  the  oldtime  New  Eng- 
land scene.  The  pulpits  of  two  of  these  churches  have  since 
Colonial  times  been  influential  in  religious  thought  in  New 
England.  The  streets  of  the  original  city  immediately  sur- 
rounding the  Green  are  laid  out  in  squares,  and  from  this 
central  portion  'radiate  the  streets  to  the  outlying  districts. 
West  of  the  Green  are  the  principal  buildings  of  Yale  Uni- 
versity. South  and  east  are  the  more  important  civic  build- 
ings and  the  business  district. 

The  Green  has  been  the  historical  center  of  New  Haven's  life  and 
history,  the  heart  of  New  Haven,  for  nearly  300  years.  As  soon  as 
the  forest  was  cleared,  the  punishment  of  offenders  was  attended  to. 
With  Puritan  conscientiousness  and  rigor  the  whipping  post  and  the 
stocks,  the  jail  and  the  court  house  were  first  built.  The  year  after 
their  landing  the  first  meeting  house  was  erected,  where  the  flagpole 
now  stands,  and  then  the  school  house.  Planned  as  a  market  place 
the  Green  was  for  200  years  used  as  a  Common  for  pasturing  cattle. 
'  With  the  first  enthusiastic  flush  of  the  Revolution  the  Liberty  Pole 
was  set  up  here  in  1774,  and  when  the  news  of  Lexington  arrived 
Benedict  Arnold,  a  druggist  of  the  town,  drew  up  his  little  army  and 
demanded  of  the  Royal  authorities  the  keys  of  the  powder  house. 
Here  Washington  on  his  way  to  take  command  of  the  Continental 
Army  at  Cambridge  reviewed  the  patriotic  company  of  Yale  students, 
and  Lafayette  reviewed  the  State  Militia. 

The  three  churches,  the  United,  Center,  and  Trinity,  now  standing 
on  the  Green  were  erected  in  the  year  1814.  The  Center  Church, 
modeled  after  St.  Martins-in-the-Fields  in  London,  was  erected  on 
the  site  of  the  burial  ground.  In  the  crypt  beneath  (open  to  the 
public  on  Saturday  afternoons  and  at  other  times  by  applying  to  the 
sexton)  are  140  tombstones  dated  before  1797.  The  other  tomb- 
stones were  removed  to  Grove  Street  Cemetery.  Just  back  of  Center 
Church  is  a  monument  to  John  Dixwell,  the  regicide,  who  for  many 
years  lived  in  New  Haven  and  was  buried  on  the  Green.  At  the 
southeast  corner  of  the  Green  is  the  Bennett  Fountain,  designed  after 
the  monument  of  Lysicrates  at  Athens. 

In  the  northwest  part  of  the  Green  opposite  the  present  Phelps 
Gateway  and  between  Center  and  Trinity  Churches  stood  until 
1889  the  State  House,  a  Greek-temple-like  structure  erected  in  1763, 
which  shared  with  Hartford  for  more  than  a  hundred  years  the  primacy 
of  the  State.  "It  was  standing  when  I  was  in  college  and  makes  the 
background  for  the  first  picture  of  my  class,"  says  Ex-president  Taft. 


NEW   HAVEN 


To  the  south  of  the  Green  on  Church  St.  is  the  new  million- 
dollar  Federal  Building  of  classic  architecture.  At  the  north- 
east corner  of  Elm  and  Church  Sts.  is  the  new  Court  House, 
another  example  of  a  Roman  temple.  On  Church  St.,  on  the 
way  up  from  the  railway  station,  we  pass  the  Connecticut 
Savings  Institution,  still  a  third  modern  Roman  temple.  The 
first  impression  the  visitor  today  gets  of  New  Haven  is  that 
the  gods  have  showered  temples,  gleaming  white  and  brand- 
new,  upon  this  ancient  academic  and  industrial  city.  They 
are,  however,  excellent  examples  of  their  type. 


1  Trinity  Ch. 

2  Center     " 
^  United     " 

4  Federal  Bldg. 

5  Court  Ho. 


6  Pierpont  Ho. 

7  Ives  Libra  ry 

8  Hist.  Soc. 

9  Grove  St.  Cem. 
10  Battle  site 


11  Trowbridge  Ho. 

12  Pierson-Sage  Sq. 

13  Yale  Campus 

14  R.R.  Station 


North  of  the  Green  the  most  prominent  building  is  the  new 
Ives  Memorial  Library,  a  distinguished  example  of  modern 
Colonial  architecture.  It  is  the  design  of  Mr.  Cass  Gilbert, 
and  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Mary  Ives.  On  Elm  St.  facing  the  Green 
is  the  Pierpont  House,  1764,  used  as  a  British  hospital  in  1779. 
Now  the  home  of  the  Rev.  Anson  Phelps  Stokes,  Secretary  of 
Yale,  it  is  filled  with  Yale  memorabilia  and  rare  prints.  Just 
to  the  east  is  the  Jarvis  House  of  1767.  The  house  of  the  Rev. 
James  Pierpont,  a  founder  of  Yale,  is  now  occupied  by  The 
Graduate  Club  of  Yale.  The  Jones  House,  37  Elm  St.,  was 
built  in  1755  on  the  site  of  the  original  house  of  Theophilus 
Eaton.  The  Tory  Tavern,  87  Elm  St.,  has  recently  been  pur- 
chased by  the  Elihu  Club. 


R.   I   §  I.     NEW  YORK  TO  NEW  HAVEN  97 

In  the  old  cemetery  on  Grove  St.  are  buried  Roger  Sherman, 
signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence;  Lyman  Beecher, 
theologian  and  preacher;  Noah  Webster,  compiler  of  the 
dictionary;  Charles  Goodyear,  inventor  of  vulcanized  rubber; 
Eli  Whitney,  inventor  of  the  cotton  gin;  and  many  other  men 
of  prominence.  Whitney  first  came  to  New  Haven  in  1789 
and  took  his  degree  at  Yale  in  1792.  In  1793  he  hit  upon  the 
cotton  gin  idea  while  practicing  law  in  Savannah.  Losing 
money  in  his  endeavor  to  prevent  infringements  of  his  patent 
he  returned  to  New  Haven  in  1798  and  took  up  the  firearms 
manufacture.  The  Eli  Whitney  homestead,  on  Huntington  St., 
near  Whitney  Ave.,  is  now  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station. 

The  New  Haven  Colony  Historical  Society  Building,  on  Grove 
St.,  at  the  foot  of  Hillhouse  Ave.,  contains  interesting  relics  of 
Colonial  days.  Here  are  preserved  Benjamin  Franklin's  Ley- 
den  jars,  the  table  on  which  Noah  Webster  wrote  his  diction- 
ary, a  silver  spoon  that  belonged  to  Commodore  Isaac  Hull, 
Benedict  Arnold's  account  book,  medicine  chest,  mortar  and 
pestle,  and  the  sign  "B.  Arnold  Druggist  /  Book-Seller  &c  / 
From  London  /  Sibi  Totique."  The  Benedict  Arnold  house 
was  on  Water  St.  Webster  began  his  dictionary  there,  but 
later  moved  to  the  Trowbridge  house,  the  oldest  in  the  town 
(1642),  on  the  corner  of  Grove  and  Temple  Sts. 

Hillhouse  Avenue  leads  to  the  most  desired  residential 
quarter,  and  the  Hillhouse  family  mansion.  The  Avenue  was 
laid  out  by  James  Hillhouse,  a  wealthy  merchant  and  U.S. 
Senator,  who  when  Roger  Sherman  was  Mayor  in  1784  insti- 
tuted many  civic  improvements.  Resembling  an  Indian  he 
was  popularly  known  as  'The  Sachem,'  which  sobriquet  is  pre- 
served in  Sachem  St.  and  the  former  Sachem  Woods,  now 
Pierson-Sage  Square,  occupied  by  the  Sloan  and  the  Osborn 
laboratories  of  the  university.  The  streets  were  then  given 
their  present  names,  and  the  elms  which  have  given  the  city 
its  second  name  were  then  planted. 

In  the  summer  of  1637  there  arrived  in  Boston  a  company  of  about 
250  men,  women,  and  children,  who  had  been  recruited  in  England  by 
Theophilus  Eaton  and  the  Rev.  John  Davenport  for  the  purpose  of 
founding  a  Puritan  settlement  in  America.  Eaton  and  Davenport 
had  been  schoolmates.  Eaton  had  become  wealthy  trading  with  the 
Baltic  countries.  As  the  pressure  on  the  Puritans  in  England  in- 
creased they  conspired  to  leave  England  unbeknownst,  for  Eaton  was 
rich  and  his  goods  would  surely  have  been  confiscated  had  the  plan 
been  suspected.  In  Boston  inducements  were  held  out  by  the  local 
real  estate  magnates  of  the  time,  as  they  would  be  today,  but  Eaton 
there  heard  of  a  fair  region  of  Quinnipiac  which  Boston  men  had  hit 
upon  in  their  pursuit  of  the  Pequots.  In  the  spring  of  1638  the  whole 
party,  joined  by  some  Boston  recruits,  sailed  around  the  Cape,  and  on 
a  Friday  in  April  their  craft  was  moored  by  the  shore.  Saturday  they 
landed  and  made  ready  for  the  Sabbath  rest.  A  tablet  now  marks  the 


98  NEW  HAVEN 

spot  where  the  party  landed.  On  their  first  Sunday  Davenport  preached 
on  "Temptations  of  the  Wilderness"  beneath  an  oak  tree  which  stood 
at  what  is  now  the  corner  of  College  and  George  Sts.,  where  later 
Lyman  Beecher's  father,  a  descendant  of  one  of  the  first  settlers, 
opened  his  blacksmith  shop.  The  old  Lyman  Beecher  House,  261 
George  St.,  was  built  in  1764. 

The  town  was  laid  out  in  nine  equal  quadrilaterals  with  a  central 
open  square  for  a  market  by  John  Brockett,  a  young  surveyor  whose 
love  of  a  Puritan  maiden  had  led  him  to  cross  the  seas.  The  dwellings 
ranged  from  mere  huts  to  grand  mansions,  as  befitted  the  varying  rank 
and  wealth  of  the  newcomers.  Eaton's  house  was  a  huge  one  with 
nineteen  fireplaces,  furnished  with  carved  tables  and  '  Turkey '  carpets, 
altogether  more  luxurious  than  we  usually  picture  the  habitations  of 
these  first  settlers.  Eaton  thriftily  bought  of  the  Indians  the  land 
now  covered  by  New  Haven  and  the  surrounding  towns  for  "one 
dozen  coats,  one  dozen  spoons,  one  dozen  hoes,  one  dozen  hatchets, 
one  dozen  porengers,  two  dozen  knives,  and  four  cases  of  French 
knives  and  scissors."  The  plantation  retained  its  Indian  name, 
Quinnipiac,  until  1640,  when  the  present  name  was  adopted.  The 
government  had  nothing  of  democracy  to  hamper  its  efficiency.  It 
was  a  veritable  ecclesiastical  hierarchy  whose  rigor  is  today  com- 
memorated in  the  legend  of  the  Blue  Laws  (see  Hartford,  R.  i)  and  whose 
first  act  was  to  erect  the  instruments  of  punishment  on  the  Green. 
"The  wprde  of  God  was  adopted  as  the  onely  rule  to  be  attended  unto 
in  ordering  the  affayres  of  government  in  this  plantation."  Character- 
istic of  Puritan  inflexibility  and  sternness  was  the  magistrate,  Richard 
Malbon,  who  sat  at  the  trial  of  his  daughter,  Martha,  and  condemned 
her  to  be  flogged  at  the  whipping  post,  which  act  was  carried  out  in 
the  market  place.  Indicative,  too,  of  the  stern  manner  in  which 
justice  was  dispensed  is  the  story  of  how  one  of  the  settlers  having 
been  found  murdered  in  the  woods,  an  Indian  was  captured;  his  guilt 
sufficiently  established,  he  was  laid  over  a  log  and  his  head  chopped 
off  and  placed  on  a  pole  in  the  market  place. 

Eaton  was  a  merchant  and  his  aim  was  gain.  Trade  was  at  once 
begun  with  the  Barbadoes  and  trading  posts  established  on  the  Dela- 
ware. A  ship,  richly  freighted,  dispatched  to  England,  was  never 
heard  from,  but  the  legend  telling  of  the  specter  of  the  ship  sailing 
into  the  harbor  in  the  teeth  of  a  gale  inspired  Whittier's  poem. 

New  Haven  remained  strictly  Puritan  and  at  the  Restoration  its 
authorities  did  not  hesitate  to  give  aid  and  comfort  to  the  regicides, 
Goffe,  Whalley,  and  Dixwell.  His  Majesty's  Governor  a  little  later 
was  treated  with  contempt  by  many  of  the  townsfolk,  who  made  a 
handsome  living  by  smuggling.  The  evasion  of  the  navigation  laws 
and  customs  duties  was  regarded  as  a  virtue  rather  than  a  crime.  On 
July  5,  1770,  a  British  force  landed  at  West  Haven  and  at  Lighthouse 
Point.  The  militia  including  a  company  of  Yale  students  fought  a 
pitched  battle  with  them  at  the  corner  of  Broadway  and  York  St. 
The  British  occupied  the  town,  camping  on  the  Green.  Dr.  Daggett, 
the  President  of  the  College,  was  taken  captive  and  forced  to  act  as 
guide.  When  all  but  dead  from  fatigue  and  repeated  bayonet  wounds, 
he  was  asked,  "Will  you  fight  again?"  He  is  said  to  have  answered, 
"I  rather  believe  I  shall  if  I  have  an  opportunity."  When  he  was 
forced  to  pray  for  the  King,  it  was  as  follows:  "O  Lord,  bless  Thy 
servant,  King  George,  and  grant  him  wisdom,  for  Thou  knowest,  O 
Lord,  he  needs  it."  The  intent  was  to  burn  the  town,  but  the  next 
day,  after  destroying  much  shipping,  they  re-embarked  and  went  to 
Fairfield.  A  monument  on  Allingtown  Heights,  southwest  of  the  city, 
commemorates  the  humanity  of  the  British  commander,  Adjutant 
William  Campbell,  who  protected  the  helpless  and  prevented  any 


R.   I   §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN  99 

needless  destruction,  but  was  shot  in  the  midst  of  his  kindly  work. 
On  his  monument  are  the  words:  "Blessed  Are  The  Merciful." 

YALE  UNIVERSITY  is,  of  course,  the  chief  interest  in  New 
Haven  both  to  visitors  and  residents,  for  the  features  of 
student  and  academic  life  add  much  that  is  picturesque,  spec- 
tacular, and  recreative  to  the  life  of  the  city.  Among  North 
American  colleges  the  third  in  age  and  second  perhaps  in 
standing,  she  still  justifies  the  title  of  'Mother  of  Colleges.' 
Yale's  conservatism  and  the  growth  of  other  institutions  have 
resulted  in  her  dropping,  in  the  last  twenty  years,  from  second 
place  in  numbers  to  twentieth.  The  University  in  its  various 
departments  enrolls  3300  students.  Among  her  16,000  living 
graduates  are  a  former  Chief  Magistrate,  hosts  of  U.S.  Sena- 
tors and  Representatives,  many  Governors,  Mayors,  Legisla- 
tors, and  College  Presidents  in  every  State  in  the  Union.  The 
claim  that  she  "trains  men  for  public  service"  is  attested  by 
Theodore  Roosevelt,  a  Harvard  alumnus,  who  has  said  that  in 
every  work  he  ever  undertook  for  civic  or  legislative  better- 
ment he  always  found  a  Yale  man  shoulder  to  shoulder  with 
him,  ready  to  do  his  full  share  of  the  work.  Yale  men  claim 
with  justice  a  more  democratic  spirit  than  prevails  at  Harvard, 
her  older  and  closest  rival.  The  Yale  view  of  the  contrast  is 
well  expressed  in  the  following  interchange  of  toasts.  Samuel 
C.  Bushnell  of  Boston,  a  Yale  alumnus,  recently  wrote: 

"Here's  to  the  city  of  Boston, 

The  home  of  the  bean  and  the  cod, 
Where  the  Cabots  speak  only  to  Lowells, 
And  the  Lowells  only  with  God." 

He  sent  this  to  Dean  Jones  of  Yale  College,  who  after  con- 
sulting the  Yale  motto,  "Lux  et  Veritas,"  wrote  back: 
"Here's  to  the  town  of  New  Haven, 
The  home  of  the  Truth  and  the  Light, 
Where  God  talks  to  Jones 
In  the  very  same  tones 
That  he  uses  with  Hadley  and  Dwight." 

The  sixty  or  more  buildings  of  Yale  University  lie  mostly  to 
the  north  and  west  of  the  Green.  Guides  may  sometimes  be 
found  at  the  Phelps  Gateway. 

Facing  the  Green,  where  formerly  stood  the  lamented  'Old 
Fence'  across  which  for  two  centuries  the  College  from  her 
bower  of  trees  looked  out  upon  the  Green,  is  now  a  long  row  of 
modern  buildings  of  varied  and  doubtful  architecture,  mostly 
college  dormitories.  In  the  center  of  this  long  fagade  rises  the 
Phelps  Gateway.  To  the  right  on  Elm  St.  is  Battell  Chapel. 
The  College  Catalog  blandly  explains  that  "the  privileges  of 
The  Church  of  Christ  in  Yale  University  are  extended  to 
students,"  and  then  goes  on  to  explain  that  daily  attendance 
at  services  is  required.  At  the  opposite  end,  on  Chapel  St., 


100  NEW   HAVEN 

is  Osborn  Hall,  a  squat  rotunda-like  affair  of  brownstone  in- 
tended for  lectures.  Entering  through  Phelps  Gateway  we 
are  on  the  college  Campus,  stretching  the  length  of  which  is 
the  'New  Fence,'  where  the  events  of  'Tap  Day'  center.  To 
the  left  stands  Connecticut  Hall,  long  known  as  Old  South 
Middle  (1750),  a  plain  brick  building  of  beautiful  proportions, 
the  only  one  of  the  Old  Brick  Row  remaining.  At  the  left 
of  the  campus  is  Vanderbilt  Hall,  a  beneficence  of  the  family, 
which  still  retains  in  it  a  suite  of  rooms  for  their  occasional  use. 

At  the  extreme  northwest  corner  of  the  campus  is  the  Art 
School  whose  galleries  contain  the  Jarves  collection  of  early 
Italian  painting,  the  most  notable  collection  of  Italian  primi- 
tives in  this  country.  In  the  Trumbull  Gallery  are  over 
fifty  paintings  by  Trumbull,  Connecticut's  earliest  and  most 
distinguished  painter,  mostly  representing  events  of  the 
American  Revolution.  Beneath  the  building  is  the  artist's 
tomb  with  the  inscription:  "Colonel  John  Trumbull,  Patriot 
and  Artist,  Friend  and  Aid  of  Washington,  lies  beside  his  wife 
beneath  this  Gallery  of  Art.  Lebanon  (Conn.),  i75o-New 
York,  1843"  (adm.  free  in  term;  summer,  250.). 

On  the  north  side  of  the  campus  is  the  old  library  in  the 
style  of  King's  College  Chapel  at  Oxford,  connected  with 
which  to  the  left  are  later  incongruous  additions.  The  ivy 
here  has  been  planted  by  the  graduating  classes,  and  on 
Commencement  Day  the  venerable  survivors  of  classes  whose 
ivies  were  planted  fifty  years  before  gather  round  and  sing 
their  Latin  ivy  odes.  On  the  campus  are  statues  of  the  first 
Yale  president  and  other  worthies.  At  the  northeast  angle 
of  the  campus  are  Dwight  Hall,  headquarters  of  the  College 
Y.M.C.A.,  and  Wright  Hall,  a  dormitory.  On  the  opposite 
corner  is  the  Peabody  Museum  of  Natural  History  (adm.  free 
daily  and  Sun.  aft.),  in  which  the  mineralogical  and  paleonto- 
logical  collections  are  especially  noteworthy.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  Elm  St.,  to  the  left,  is  the  Gymnasium  and  swimming 
pool.  To  the  right  on  Elm  St.  is  the  block  of  dormitories 
known  as  Berkeley  Oval,  and  just  beyond  the  quadrangle  of 
the  Divinity  School.  Still  farther  along  Elm  St.  beyond  the 
Methodist  Church  is  the  Law  School,  a  detached  city  block 
seemingly  with  nothing  to  lean  against.  At  the  corner  of 
College  and  Grove  Sts.  are  the  Bicentennial  Buildings, — 
Memorial  Hall,  containing  the  Civil  War  Memorial,  to  the 
left  of  which  is  Woolsey  Hall  with  a  great  organ  and  to  the 
right  the  great  Dining  Hall. 

The  buildings  of  the  Sheffield  Scientific  School  are  opposite 
and  continue  to  the  east.  The  great  block  of  buildings  facing 
College  and  Elm  Sts.  and  enclosing  Vanderbilt  Square  have 


R.  I  §  I.  NEW  YORK  TO  NEW  HAVEN  IOI 

all  been  donated  by  Frederick  Vanderbilt.  They  are  of  that 
modification  of  the  French  chateau  architectural  style  which 
has  become  naturalized  along  upper  Fifth  Ave.  The  corner 
is  occupied  by  St.  Anthony  Hall,  otherwise  known  as  'T 
Company,'  a  Sheff  Greek  Letter  Fraternity. 

Behind  on  either  side  of  Hillhouse  Ave.  are  the  more  im- 
portant Laboratory  and  Lecture  Buildings  of  Sheff.  On  Hill- 
house  Ave.  in  the  center  to  the  left  is  the  Electrical  Engineer- 
ing Laboratory  and  opposite  the  Mason  and  Mechanical  En- 
gineering Laboratory.  A  white  sandstone  building  on  the 
left  bears  on  its  front  the  inscription  "Leet  Oliver  Memorial 
Anno  Domini  M CM VII."  The  student  whose  name  is  here 
commemorated  some  years  ago  after  Commencement  Day 
festivities,  as  a  faculty  member  tersely  expressed  it,  "ran  his 
motor  car  off  a  nearby  bridge  and  broke  his  neck."  His 
mother  gave  $350,000  for  this  building  in  memoriam.  Yale 
seems  to  have  suffered  a  number  of  such  misfortunes.  The 
Walter  Husted  Scholarship  commemorates  another  student 
who  was  similarly  killed  in  a  motor  accident,  and  the  George 
Benedict  Sherman  Scholarship  was  founded  by  the  mother  of 
a  student  who  was  killed  by  falling  off  West  Rock. 

Yale  men  are  proud  of  their  traditions,  by  which  they  seem 
to  mean  their  ancient  ways  of  doing  things.  So  the  Yale 
"News"  and  the  Yale  "Lit"  still  appear  with  the  artificially 
florid  heading  of  Victorian  time.  The  student  life,  especially 
in  the  clubs  and  fraternities,  cherishes  traditions.  A  better 
understanding  of  Yale  may  be  gained,  therefore,  by  some  under- 
standing of  the  customs  and  clubs  than  by  looking  at  the  bare 
walls  of  lecture  halls  and  dormitories.  The  ambition  of  every 
Yale  man,  apart  from  the  making  of  the  athletic  teams,  is  to 
be  taken  into  one  of  the  three  great  senior  societies.  'Tap 
Day '  is  the  most  eventful  day  in  the  life  of  the  Yale  man.  At 
five  o'clock  on  the  second  Thursday  in  May  the  members  of 
the  three  senior  societies  who  have  been  in  solemn  conclave 
during  the  afternoon  issue  one  by  one  solemnly  from  their 
'tombs'  and  proceed  direct  to  the  'New  Fence'  on  the 
campus.  Here  are  assembled,  lolling  about  the  lawn  with 
suppressed  anxiety,  all  the  members  of  the  Junior  Class.  Now 
all  visitors  are  excluded,  but  formerly  an  assemblage  of  under- 
graduates, pretty  girls,  fathers  and  mothers  looked  down  from 
the  windows  of  the  dormitories  about.  One  by  one  each  mem- 
ber of  a  senior  society  wends  his  way  through  the  crowd  until 
he  spies  the  man  he  is  looking  for.  He  brusquely  slaps  him 
on  the  shoulder  with  a  "go  to  your  room,"  and  thus  announces 
to  the  undergraduate  world  and  admiring  friends  that  this 
man  has  made  a  'success'  of  his  undergraduate  career. 


102  NEW   HAVEN 

Each  of  the  senior  societies  has  fifteen  members,  and  each 
holds  weekly  meetings  on  Thursday  night.  All  the  societies, 
both  the  academic  and  Sheff,  have  society  houses  which  are 
called  'tombs,'  usually  windowless  and  wearing  an  air  of 
mystery.  The  Sheff  fraternities  have  dormitories  or  luxurious 
club  houses  as  well,  often  named  after  their  patron  saint,  and 
vying  with  each  other  in  the  weirdness  of  their  architecture. 

The  Skull  and  Bones  is  the  oldest  and  was  long  the  fore- 
most of  the  senior  societies.  The  'Bones  Tomb'  on  High 
St.  is  a  sepulchral,  windowless,  ivyclad  building  with  iron 
doors.  'Bones'  men  are  usually  leaders  in  athletics  or  re- 
ligious activities. 

The  Scroll  and  Keys  tomb  is  at  Wall  and  College  Sts. 
'Keys'  has  the  reputation  of  recruiting  its  men  from  the 
wealthy  and  aristocratic.  In  recent  years  it  has  rather  come 
to  supplant  'Bones'  in  social  primacy.  Here  at  12.30  A.M. 
every  Friday  morning  on  the  breakup  of  the  weekly  meeting, 
sleepers  in  the  neighborhood  are  roused  by  the  lusty  singing  of 
the  Troubador  Song. 

The  Wolf's  Head,  the  third  senior  society,  is  socially 
somewhat  like  the  Pi  Eta  at  Harvard.  Its  tomb,  rather 
Dutch  in  architecture,  is  out  on  Prospect  St.,  but  a  new  tomb 
is  about  to  be  erected  on  College  St. 

York  Street  was  formerly  the  scene  of  the  tumultuous  fresh- 
man sophomore  rush  which  followed  the  time-honored  torchlight 
procession  and  the  wrestling  matches  on  the  campus.  This 
series  of  events,  the  night  before  college  opened,  was  the  real 
Yale  'Commencement'  and  night  of  convivial  reunion.  On 
York  St.  is  the  'Deke'  House,  a  junior  society  famous  for  its 
singing.  At  High  and  Grove  Sts.,  opposite  the  Egyptian  gate- 
way to  the  old  cemetery,  a  costly  Greek  marble  temple,  its 
two  columns  surmounted  by  Ionic  capitals,  is  the  tomb  of  the 
Sheff  society,  The  Book  and  Snake.  Its  dormitory,  The 
Cloister,  a  little  below  and  opposite  on  Grove  St.  at  the 
corner  of  Hillhouse  Ave.,  is  an  attractive  brownstone  house 
whose  luxurious  deep  bay-window  seats  give  some  suggestion 
of  the  strenuous  life  led  by  the  'Sheff  frat'  man.  The  Colony 
Club,  on  Hillhouse  Ave.,  may  sound  feminine  to  a  New  Yorker, 
but  at  Yale  it  indicates  a  Sheff  society  with  a  luxurious  Colonial 
brick  dormitory  with  columned  portico.  Their  tomb,  Ber- 
zelius,  is  on  the  corner  of  Whitney  Ave.,  Trumbull,  and 
Temple  Sts.  York  Hall,  on  Wall  near  College  Sts.,  looks  like 
an  imitation  of  the  Palace  of  the  Doges,  but  is  really  the 
headquarters  of  a  Sheff  society. 

The  Elizabethan  Club,  on  College  St.  between  Elm  and 
Wall,  occupies  an  inconspicuous  building.  It  is  unique  among 


R.    I   §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   NEW   HAVEN  103 

Yale  institutions  in  that  here  a  taste  for  literature,  art,  and 
afternoon  tea  may  be  openly  avowed  without  fear  of  philistine 
contempt  or  charges  of  priggishness. 

When  Yale  began  and  where  is  a  little  difficult  to  say.  The  intent 
was  early,  for  John  Davenport,  the  first  minister,  believed  a  college 
necessary  in  a  State  "whose  design  is  religion,"  and  the  famous  Ezekiel 
Cheever  was  early  imported  from  London  "for  the  better  training  up 
of  youth  in  this  town,  that  through  God's  blessing  they  may  be  fitted 
for  public  service."  In  1657  there  died  in  London  an  Edward  Hopkins 
who  had  been  Governor  of  Connecticut  and  amassed  a  fortune  in 
colonial  trade.  In  his  will  he  left  £1400  and  a  "negar"  for  the 
"breading  up  of  hopeful  youths  in  New  England."  The  money  was 
divided  between  Hadley,  Harvard,  where  it  still  supports  "Deturs," 
and  New  Haven,  where  the  Hopkins  Grammar  School  still  survives. 

But  for  more  than  half  a  century  New  Haven  not  only  sent  her 
future  ministers  to  be  trained  at  Harvard  College,  but  every  person 
"whose  hart  was  willing"  contributed  a  peck  of  "college  corn,"  sent 
yearly  to  Cambridge  for  their  support. 

In  1700  ten  clergymen  met  at  Branford  and  donated  forty  books 
toward  the  founding  of  a  college  that  they  might  "educate  ministers 
in  our  own  way."     The  next  year  this  Collegiate  School  was  chartered, 
and  the  trustees  decided  to  locate  it  at  Saybrook,  then  a  convenient 
point  of  access  midway  on  the  water  route  from  Hartford  to  New 
Haven.     Thus  it  came  about  that  Yale  was  founded  by  Connecticut 
Harvard  graduates  who  wanted  a  ministerial  training  establishment 
nearer  home.     This  is  still  celebrated  in  the  song: 
"Old  Harvard  was  old  Harvard 
When  Yale  was  but  a  pup." 

In  1702,  before  the  new  college  had  had  a  student,  it  celebrated  its 
first  Commencement,  at  which  degrees  were  conferred  upon  five  Harvard 
graduates.  Its  first  president,  Abraham  Pierson,  was  the  minister  at 
Killingworth,  a  few  miles  away,  where  the  students  went  for  instruc- 
tion (R.  2).  When  Pierson  died  in  1707  the  senior  class  went  to 
Milford  to  study  with  the  new  rector,  who  was  minister  there.  The 
students  complained  of  Saybrook  as  being  a  dull  town,  and  in  1716 
some  of  them  went  to  Guilford  and  others  to  Wethersfield.  Of 
course  a  college  split  up  in  this  way  was  under  difficulties  and  something 
had  to  be  done.  Hartford  and  New  Haven  both  made  bids  for  the 
college,  but  the  latter's  was  the  highest,  eight  acres  given  by  the  town 
and  about  forty  more  contributed  by  individuals.  The  greatest  op- 
position, however,  was  raised  by  the  rivals,  and  when  an  attempt  was 
made  to  remove  the  library  from  Wethersfield,  where  it  then  was,  the 
sheriff  had  to  be  called  in.  After  the  books  were  loaded  on  the  carts  the 
wheels  were  removed,  the  bridges  broken  down,  and  consequently  many 
books  were  lost.  The  students  at  Wethersfield,  a  "  very  vicious  and  tur- 
bulent set  of  fellows,"  set  up  a  rival  college,  and  bad  feeling  ran  high 
until  1726,  when  Mr.  Williams  of  the  Wethersfield  college  was  elected 
president  of  the  New  Haven  institution,  thus  uniting  their  fortunes. 

Elihu  Yale,  a  man  of  great  wealth  in  London,  was  through  the  in- 
fluence of  Mr.  Dummer,  the  agent  for  the  colony  in  England,  induced 
to  aid  the  new  colony.  David  Yale,  his  father,  had  been  one  of  the 
first  settlers  in  New  Haven  in  1638,  and  Elihu  had  been  born  in  Bos- 
ton. As  a  young  man  he  went  to  India  and  in  course  of  time  became 
Governor  of  Madras,  where  his  extortionate  methods  with  the  natives 
won  him  a  great  fortune  as  well  as  great  opprobrium.  Elihu  Yale 
sent  to  the  College  some  books,  a  picture  of  the  King  of  England,  and 
a  quantity  of  East  India  goods  which  were  sold  for  its  benefit.  Thus 
cheaply  he  achieved  an  immortal  fame  as  a  benefactor,  though  in 


104  NEW  HAVEN 

Madras  he  is  still  remembered  as  a  tyrant  and  a  grafter.     The  epitaph 
on  his  tombstone  in  the  Wrexham  churchyard  is  frank: 

"Under  this  tomb  lyes  interred  Elihu  Yale,  of  Plas  Gronow,  Esq.: 
born  sth  of  April,  1648,  and  dyed  the  8th  of  July,  1721,  aged  73  years. 
"Born  in  America,  in  Europe  bred, 

In  Africa  travel'd,  and  in  Asia  wed, 

Where  long  he  liv'd  and  thriv'd;   at  London  dead. 

Much  good,  some  ill  he  did;  so  hope  all  even, 

And  that  his  soul  through  mercy's  gone  to  heaven. 

You  that  survive  and  read,  take  care 

For  this  most  certain  exit  to  prepare, 

For  only  the  actions  of  the  just 

Smell  sweet  and  blossom  in  the  dust." 

The  first  building  for  the  College  was  erected  at  New  Haven  in  1717, 
and  at  its  dedication  the  following  year  the  trustees  adopted  this 
minute:  "We,  the  trustees,  do  with  one  consent  determine  and  ordain 
that  our  college  house  shall  be  called  by  the  name  of  its  munificent 
patron  and  shall  be  named  Yale  College."  This  college  house  stood 
about  where  was  the  old  college  row,  torn  down  a  few  years  ago,  in 
spite  of  the  protest  of  Yale  men,  to  make  room  for  the  present  "archi- 
tectural excrescences,"  as  a  devoted  alumnus  has  termed  them. 

To  the  clergy  who  controlled  the  college,  theology  was  the  basis  of 
the  "arts  and  sciences."  Every  effort  was  made  to  preserve  the 
doctrinal  purity  of  Calvinism  unsullied.  In  1722  Rector  Cutler  was 
dismissed  because  of  a  leaning  toward  Episcopacy.  In  1744  two 
students  on  returning  to  college  were  suspended  for  attending  during 
vacation  a  church  other  than  Congregational.  Refusing  to  confess, 
they  were  expelled  and  their  fellow  students  forbidden  from  even 
speaking  to  them  from  fear  of  corruption, — so  zealously  were  the 
morals  of  Yale  youth  guarded.  Corporal  punishment,  the  system  of 
fines,  and  the  practice  of  printing  students'  names  according  to  social 
rank  disappeared  about  the  time  of  the  Revolution. 

Among  Yale's  more  famous  alumni,  not  already  mentioned,  have 
been  John  C.  Calhoun,  the  statesman  and  orator;  S.  F.  B.  Morse,  in- 
ventor of  the  telegraph;  Jonathan  Edwards,  Calvinist  theologian; 
Timothy  Dwight,  first  President  of  Yale  of  that  name,  who  a  century 
ago  wrote  the  first  guide  book  of  New  England.  'One  reads  of  the  long 
list  of  poets  and  authors  Yale  has  sent  forth.  Among  them  were 
Fenimore  Cooper,  who  entered  Yale  at  the  age  of  thirteen  and  was 
rusticated  during  his  junior  year,  when  he  joined  the  Navy,  and  Ed- 
mund Clarence  Stedman,  who  entered  college  at  fifteen  and  at  seven- 
teen was  suspended  for  irregularities. 

Of  course  New  Haven  swarms  with  the  variety  of  savants  common  to 
university  towns.  Among  those  who  are  better  known  to  the  multi- 
tude are:  W.  H.  Taft,  twenty-seventh  President  of  the  United 
States;  Arthur  T.  Hadley,  the  modest  President  of  Yale;  Irving  Fisher, 
who  figures  as  a  political  economist  among  his  brethren,  but  to  the 
magazine-reading  world  is  the  man  who  knows  all  about  the  cost  of 
living;  William  L.  Phelps,  who  discovered  that  the  novel  is  a  profitable 
field  for  academic  courses;  Hiram  Bingham,  the  South  American 
explorer,  excavator  of  Inca  cities  and  revealer  of  the  Monroe  Doctrine 
as  an  obsolete  shibboleth;  Timothy  Dwight,  the  second  of  that  name 
to  be  President  of  Yale  University;  Eli  Whitney,  like  ex-President 
Dwight  in  that  he  is  also  the  third  of  his  name,  a  financier  if  not 
an  inventor,  and  president  or  vice  president  of  several  important  New 
Haven  companies. 

New  Haven  is  more  than  a  university  town  and  owes  its 
greatness  as  much  to  Eli  Whitney  as  to  Eli  Yale,  for  her  im- 


R.  I  §  I.  NEW  YORK  TO  NEW  HAVEN  105 

portance  as  an  industrial  center  dates  from  Whitney's  govern- 
ment contract  of  125  years  ago  for  the  manufacture  of  fire- 
arms. The  use  of  'interchangeable  parts,'  now  fundamental 
in  the  construction  of  all  kinds  of  machinery,  is  due  to  Whitney. 
Because  of  this  and  his  invention  of  the  cotton  gin,  Barnard 
says  in  his  "American  Industrial  History"  that  Whitney's  in- 
ventive genius  "changed  the  industrial  history  of  a  nation." 

New  Haven  has  remained  a  center  for  the  manufacture  of 
small  arms.  The  mammoth  plant  where  Winchester  guns  and 
cartridges  are  made  employs  over  17,500  people.  Including 
proving  ground  and  terminals  it  covers  781  acres.  More  than 
25,000,000  rounds  of  ammunition  are  fired  here  every  year  in 
testing  their  output.  The  Marlin  Firearms  Corporation  makes 
sporting  guns  of  high  quality.  Both  companies  are  now  busy 
night  and  day  on  large  war  orders  for  the  Allies. 

Clock-making  is  an  industry  which  developed  and  has 
prospered  especially  in  Connecticut.  The  earlier  clocks  were 
fashioned  entirely  of  wood.  Eli  Terry  may  perhaps  be  re- 
garded as  the  founder  of  the  modern  clock  industry.  He  was 
the  first  to  make  parts  to  gauge  and  patented  a  model  clock 
in  1797.  At  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century  he  was 
manufacturing  clocks  by  the  thousand.  The  clock  now  on 
the  Center  Church  was  made  in  New  Haven  in  1814.  The  New 
Haven  Clock  Company,  established  in  1817,  is  today  one  of  the 
largest  establishments  in  the  city.  Its  president  is  Walter 
Camp,  wellknown  throughout  the  country  as  an  authority 
on  athletics.  New  Haven's  clocks  go  all  over  the  world. 

Rubber  shoes  and  other  goods  were  first  manufactured  in 
New  Haven  in  1842.  The  first  license  to  manufacture  rubber 
shoes  under  his  new  process  of  vulcanization  was  granted  by 
Charles  Goodyear  to  Leverett  Candee.  Mr.  Candee  enlisted 
the  financial  aid  of  Henry  and  Lucius  Hotchkiss,  prominent 
local  merchants  whose  family  is  still  actively  identified  with 
the  New  Haven  Rubber  Industry.  The  first  rubber  shoes 
were  received  with  many  doubts  and  suspicions  and  it  was  a 
long  time  before  the  public  could  be  convinced  that  a  new 
article  was  being  marketed  which,  far  from  being  a  luxury, 
would  become  an  indispensable  necessity.  In  1848  a  new  im- 
petus was  given  to  the  business  by  decisions  upholding  the 
validity  of  the  Goodyear  patent  and  confirming  the  licensees 
in  their  rights.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that  in  this  litigation 
Daniel  Webster  represented  the  licensees,  of  which  at  this 
time  there  were  a  number,  including  the  Goodyear  India 
Rubber  Glove  Mfg.  Co.  and  the  Goodyear  Metallic  Rubber 
Shoe  Company  of  Naugatuck.  Webster  received  a  fee  of 
$10,000,  which  at  that  time  was  deemed  colossal. 


106  NEW   HAVEN— WALLINGFORD 

When  the  United  States  Rubber  Company,  the  second  of  the 
large  industrial  corporations,  was  organized  in  1892  the  Candee 
Company  was  one  of  the  most  important  units  around  which 
the  'rubber  trust'  was  formed.  Today  this  company  em- 
ploys over  54,000  people  and  its  annual  business  exceeds 
$100,000,000. 

The  manufacture  of  hardware  is  represented  by  several 
firms,  the  most  important  being  Sargent  &  Company,  started 
in  1834,  and  now  grown  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  industrial 
plants  in  the  world.  They  have  4000  employees  and  turn 
out  60,000  different  articles  sold  almost  entirely  to  the  hard- 
ware trade.  The  H.  B.  Ives  Company,  established  in  1872 'by 
Hobert  B.  Ives,  who  is  still  head  of  the  company,  is  another 
large  manufacturer  of  builders'  hardware. 

The  New  Haven  Chamber  of  Commerce,  founded  in  1794,  is 
the  second  oldest  in  the  country  and  has  taken  an  active  part 
in  extending  the  industries  of  the  city  and  broadening  the  mar- 
kets for  other  products.  It  occupies  a  fine  new  building  south 
of  the  Green  and  at  673  Chapel  St.  maintains  a  free  exhibit  of 
"Made  in  New  Haven  Products"  together  with  an  informa- 
tion bureau  and  a  reading  room  with  files  of  papers. 


R.  1  §  2.    New  Haven  to  Hartford.  37.0  m. 

Via  MERIDEN.    STATE  ROAD  throughout. 

This  shortest  and  most  direct  route,  marked  with  blue  bands 
on  poles,  follows  the  Old  Boston  Post  Road  along  the  levels  of 
the  Quinnipiac  river.  An  alternate  route  passes  through 
Durham,  Middletown,  and  Wethersfield  (p  no). 

From  the  Green  we  follow  Elm,  Orange,  Lawrence,  and 
State  Sts.  At  the  bridge  over  Mill  River  is  the  best  view  of 
East  Rock,  crowned  by  the  Soldiers'  Monument.  It  is  said 
that  the  regicides  hid  beneath  this  bridge  on  one  occasion 
while  their  pursuers  crossed  above. 

Skirting  East  Rock  Park,  just  beyond  the  car  barns  where 
the  trolley  forks,  turn  right  over  the  R.R.  and  cross  the  Quin- 
nipiac river.  From  here  to  Wallingford  is  a  level  run  parallel 
with  the  trolley.  This  is  the  old  Turnpike  and  a  straight  road 
of  oiled  macadam  and  bituminous  concrete.  (Exit  from  New 
Haven  may  also  be  made  from  the  Green,  following  Whitney 
Ave.  to  the  north  of  East  Rock,  joining  the  Turnpike  at 
North  Haven.)  We  pass  through  the  village  of  Montowese, 
which  perpetuates  the  name  of  the  Indian  Sachem  from 
whom  these  lands  were  purchased  in  1638,  and  follow  the 
blue  markers  to 


R.   I   §   2.     NEW   HAVEN   TO   HARTFORD  107 

8.5    NORTH  HAVEN.    Pop  (twp)  2254.     New  Haven  Co.     Settled 

1638.  Mfg.  bricks  and  carriage  woodwork. 
The  clay  deposits  here  underlying  the  meadows  have  fur- 
nished materials  for  brick-making  since  1720.  In  the  early 
days  of  the  New  Haven  Colony  this  was  known  as  North 
Farms.  In  the  coaching  days,  before  the  railroad,  the  town 
was  of  some  importance  as  a  posting  station.  An  old  ceme- 
tery occupies  a  portion  of  the  village  green.  The  oldest  epitaph 
is  of  one  who  "dyed  Augye  21,  1736": 

"Reder  stop  your  space  &  stay 
&  harken  unto  what  I  say, 
Our  lives  but  cobwebs  tho'  near  so  gay, 
And  death  ye  brome  yt  sweeps  away." 

The  road  follows  the  level  plain  of  the  valley  of  the  Quin- 
nipiac  and  parallels  the  railroad.  The  railroad  cuttings  here 
show  the  rock  to  be  a  red  sandstone,  friable  and  weathered. 
On  the  upland  are  grown  grapes  and  peaches. 

As  we  approach  Wallingford,  and  about  a  mile  west  of  the 
little  village  of  Quinnipiac,  among  the  low  rounded  and  wooded 
hills  is  Mt.  Carmel.  The  rock  composing  these  hills  is  of 
volcanic  origin  but  different  from  the  trap  ridges  hereabouts. 
Professor  William  Morris  Davis,  the  Harvard  geographer  who 
has  unraveled  the  geological  history  of  this  region,  has  identi- 
fied here  the  stump  of  an  ancient  volcano.  He  says:  "Mt. 
Carmel  and  the  Blue  Hills,  southwest  of  Wallingford,  have  a 
peculiar  interest  from  marking  the  site  of  great  dikes  or  '  necks ' 
of  lava.  In  all  probability  they  are  the  roots  of  the  volcano 
or  volcanoes  from  which  the  lava  sheets  of  the  Meriden  dis- 
trict were  erupted." 

The  region  about  Waltingf ord  is  a  characteristic  '  sand  plain ' 
where,  at  the  close  of  the  Glacial  Period,  the  waters  from  the 
melting  ice  sheet  spread  out  widely  over  the  country,  deposit- 
ing the  material  in  a  low  delta,  often  with  sharply  defined  and 
steep  margins.  The  barren  acres  of  cleanly  washed  sand 
support  scarcely  any  vegetation  except  scrub  pine  and  oak. 

The  road  to  the  left,  two  miles  before  reaching  Wallingford, 
leads  in  a  half  mile  to  the  old  Oakdale  Tavern  (1769)  whose 
proprietor  advertises  it  as  "The  only  Inn  in  New  England 
where  Washington  did  not  stop."  The  blue-marked  road  does 
not  pass  through  but  leaves  somewhat  to  the  east  the  town  of 

13.5     WALLINGFORD.     Alt    76  ft.      Pop   (twp)   11,155,  (borough) 

8690.     New   Haven  Co.     Settled   1667.     Mfg.   silver   and 

plated  ware,  brass   and  rubber  goods,  and  fireworks. 

The  business  center  of  the  town  lies  on  a  ridge  to  the  right 

of  the  direct  route.     It  is  a  busy  town  of  varied  industries,  with 

a  large  population  of  Italians  and  Poles.     On  the  edge  of  the 

rolling  country  to  the  east  is  The  Choate  School  for  Boys. 


108  WALLINGFORD— BERLIN 

Wallingford  orchards  market  a  quarter  million  baskets  of 
peaches,  a  million  peach  trees,  and  a  half  million  apple  trees 
annually. 

The  town  bears  the  name  of  the  English  village  from  which  some  of 
its  settlers  came.  It  was  the  center  of  Revolutionary  protest,  and  at 
a  meeting  in  1767  protesting  the  Stamp  Act  it  was  resolved,  "Whereas 
it  appears  from  ancient  Records  and  other  Memorials  of  Incontesti- 
ble  Validity  that  our  Ancestors  with  a  great  Sum  Purchased  said 
township,  with  great  Peril  possessed  and  Defended  the  Same,  we  are 
Born  free  (having  never  been  in  bondage  to  any),  an  inheritance  of 
Inestimable  Value."  And  a  fine  of  one  pound  sterling  was  imposed 
on  any  who  should  use  the  objectionable  stamped  paper.  One  of 
Wallingford's  citizens,  Dr.  Lyman  Hall,  was  a  signer  of  the  Declaration 
of  Independence,  and  the  town  remained  throughout  the  Revolution 
a  hotbed  of  patriotism. 

Here  Washington  spent  the  night  in  1789,  making  the  following 
entry  in  his  Diary: 

"Left  New  Haven  at  6  o'clock  and  arrived  at  Wallingford  (13  miles) 
by  half  after  eight  o'clock,  when  we  breakfasted,  and  took  a  walk 
through  the  town.  ...  At  this  place  we  see  the  white  Mulberry  grow- 
ing, raised  from  the  seed,  to  feed  the  Silkworm.  We  also  saw  samples 
of  lustring  (exceeding  good)  which  had  been  manufactured  from  the 
Cacoon  raised  in  this  Town,  and  silk  thread  very  fine.  This,  except 
the  weaving,  is  the  work  of  private  families." 

In  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century  a  branch  of  the  Oneida 
Community  was  located  here,  but  its  property  was  afterward  taken 
over  for  the  Masonic  Home. 

Beyond  Wallingford  to  the  northwest  are  the  Hanging  Hills 
of  Meriden.  The  three  sharp  peaks  (1000  ft)  with  a  gentle 
slope  to  the  northward  are  tilted  and  faulted  trap  ridges.  The 
central  peak,  Castle  Craig,  has  a  round  observation  tower. 
Northeast  is  the  long,  wooded  Lamentation  Mountain,  another 
trap  ridge,  so  called  from  the  tradition  that  an  early  settler 
was  lost  on  the  mountain  and  never  found,  which  caused  his 
friends  to  lament.  The  excellent  roads  of  this  region  are 
largely  due  to  the  abundant  supply  of  hard  trap  rock. 

Yalesville  to  the  west,  formerly  Tylers  Mills,  was  renamed 
in  honor  of  Charles  Yale,  who  had  won  a  fortune  making  tin- 
ware and  selling  it  in  the  South.  He  established  here,  about 
1810,  a  pioneer  factory  for  pewter  and  britannia  wares. 

Three  miles  from  Wallingford  we  pass  with  a  sharp  turn 
under  the  railroad  bridge  and  join  the  old  turnpike  which  runs 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Quinnipiac,  passing  the  village  of  Tracy, 
a  suburb  of  Meriden.  We  enter  the  city  by  Old  Colony  and 
Cook  Aves.,  passing  on  the  west  Hanover  Park,  a  popular 
pleasure  resort  with  a  casino  and  a  large  lake. 

20.0  MERIDEN.  Alt  ISO  ft.  Pop  27,265  (1910),  loc.  est.  40,000 
(1915);  nearly  one  third  foreign-born.  New  Haven  Co. 
Settled  1661.  Mfg.  silver,  nickel,  britannia  and  plated 
ware,  granite  and  agate  enamel  ware,  cut  glass,  firearms, 
cutlery,  lamps  and  electric  fixtures,  and  other  metal  goods. 
Value  of  Product,  $16J16,000;  Payroll,  $5,428,000. 


R.   I   §  2.     NEW   HAVEN   TO   HARTFORD  109 

The  'Silver  City'  is  well  named,  for  it  produces  more  than 
half  the  plated  ware  manufactured  in  the  State  and  a  good  deal 
of  solid  silver  as  well.  It  is  essentially  an  industrial  city,  but 
with  well-shaded  streets,  attractive  public  buildings,  and 
beautiful  parks.  The  City  Park  and  Brookside  Park  are  near 
the  center  of  the  town.  Hubbard  Park,  on  the  outskirts,  the 
gift  of  one  of  Meriden's  leading  citizens,  is  an  attractive 
reservation  of  1000  acres  at  the  foot  of  the  Hanging  Hills. 

Meriden,  originally  a  portion  of  Wallingford,  was  settled  by  Captain 
Andrew  Belcher,  who  named  it  for  his  home  in  Warwickshire,  England. 
This  was  about  a  mile  east  of  the  present  business  center,  which  was 
then  a  swampy  region  known  as  "Pilgromes  Harbor"  because  Goffe 
and  Whalley,  the  regicides,  fleeing  from  Milford,  here  lay  hidden  for 
several  days.  The  coming  of  the  railroad  in  1830  met  with  such  op- 
position that  it  was  obliged  to  avoid  the  town  and  was  built  along  the 
valley  of  Harbor  Brook.  Since  then  the  town  has  moved  to  it.  Exactly 
half  way  between  Hartford  and  New  Haven,  this  was  in  coaching 
days  a  favorite  stopping-place.  Most  famous  of  its  inns  was  the  old 
Half  Way  House,  formerly  located  at  the  junction  of  Broad  and  East 
Main  Sts.,  which  in  consequence  of  its  convivial  hospitality  and  loca- 
tion was  called  the  'Merry  Den.' 

The  manufacture  of  pewter  and  britannia  ware  was  begun  here  by 
Samuel  Yale  in  1794.  One  of  the  earliest  trusts  was  formed  in  1854 
by  the  combination  of  most  of  the  firms  in  the  Meriden  Britannia 
Company.  In  1898  with  sixteen  others  it  was  absorbed  by  the  In- 
ternational Silver  Company,  which  has  its  general  offices  and  some  of 
its  principal  plants  in  Meriden,  with  factories  in  other  Connecticut 
cities  and  Canada.  This  company  manufactures  the  famous  "1847 
Rogers  Bros."  brand  of  silverware.  Its  Meriden  plants  employ  7000 
skilled  workmen  and  turn  out  a  product  valued  at  $15,000,000.  Meri- 
den is  the  home  of  the  mechanical  piano  player.  The  Angelus  Player 
Piano,  a  pioneer  of  its  kind,  and  a  development,  the  Vocalion,  are 
both  made  here.  The  Edward  Miller,  the  Bradley  &  Hubbard,  and 
the  Handel  plants  turn  out  millions  of  lamps  and  electrical  fixtures. 
Charles  Parker  &  Co.  are  large  manufacturers  of  hardware,  and  the 
firm  of  Parker  Brothers  have  been  making  guns  since  1862.  Cut  glass 
is  made  by  the  I.  D.  Bergen,  the  Meriden  Cut  Glass,  and  the  Silver 
City  Cut  Glass  companies. 

Leaving  the  center  of  the  town  by  North  Colony  St.  we 
pass  the  old  Goffe  House,  built  in  1711;  on  a  slope  to  the  left  is 
the  State  School  for  Boys.  A  mile  and  a  half  beyond  the  town 
we  cross  the  line  between  New  Haven  and  Hartford  counties. 
To  the  northwest  is  the  manufacturing  town  of  New  Britain. 

26.0    BERLIN.     Alt  64  ft.     Pop  3728.     Hartford  Co.     Settled  1686. 
Mfg.  structural  iron,  pressed  brick,  paper  boxes,  and  bags. 
A  small  industrial  town  and  railroad  junction,  Berlin  pre- 
sents an  ungracious  appearance,  though  the  street  along  the 
Old  Post  Road  evidences  age  and  respectability.     Here  was 
born  in  1787  Emma  Hart  (Willard),  and  here  she  began  her 
career  as  a  teacher  at  the  age  of  seventeen.     Famous  as  an 
educator,  she  is  less  known  as  the  author  of  "Rocked  in  the 
Cradle  of  the  Deep." 


HO  BERLIN— HARTFORD 

Berlin  has,  moreover,  played  an  important  part  in  the  devel- 
opment of  Connecticut  industries  and  trade.  About  1740 
there  came  to  Berlin  from  County  Tyrone,  Ireland,  William 
and  Edward  Patterson,  skilled  in  the  art  of  shaping  tin  plate 
into  small  ware.  Establishing  a  workshop  they  produced 
quantities  of  pans,  pails,  and  dippers,  which  they  peddled  in 
hand-carts  and  by  pack-horses  through  the  surrounding  coun- 
tryside, where  their  goods  were  eagerly  bought  as  luxuries. 
Thus  originated  the  Connecticut  tin  peddler  who  carried  his 
Yankee  products  in  gayly  painted  wagons  from  Quebec  to  the 
Mississippi.  The  infant  industry  throve  so  that  Dr.  Dwight 
tells  us,  in  1815  "ten  thousand  boxes  of  tinned  plates  were 
manufactured  into  culinary  utensils  in  the  town  of  Berlin  in 
one  year."  But  the  lusty  'infant'  was  clamoring  for  'pro- 
tection' a  century  later.  Iron  bridges  were  the  chief  output 
of  Berlin  for  years,  till  the  works,  acquired  by  the  trust,  were 
diverted  to  other  uses. 

The  Turnpike  trends  northeasterly;  it  leaves  the  trap  ridge 
and  passes  through  low,  rolling  country.  Beyond  Newington 
Junction  (31.0)  to  the  east  are  the  wooded  heights  of  Glaston- 
bury.  On  the  outskirts  of  Hartford  is  Trinity  College  on 
a  ridge  to  the  left.  Route  10  from  Saybrook  and  Middletown 
joins  this  route,  entering  Maple  Ave.  from  Wethersfield  Ave. 
on  the  right. 
37.0  HARTFORD  (R.  1,  p  111). 

Alternate  route,  New  Haven  to  Hartford.  41.0  m. 

Via  DURHAM,  MIDDLETOWN,  and  WETHERSFIELD.     STATE 

ROAD  marked  in  yellow  to  Durham,  thence  in  blue. 

This  route,  though  four  miles  longer  and  over  an  excellent 
macadam  but  less  traveled  road,  is  well  worth  taking  because 
of  the  beautiful  old  towns  through  which  it  passes,  contrasting 
strongly  with  the  industrial  towns  on  the  direct  route. 

Leaving  New  Haven  by  way  of  Elm  and  State  Sts.  the 
route  crosses  Mill  River  to  East  Haven,  and  passes  immediately 
beneath  East  Rock,  continuing  along  Middletown  Ave.  across 
the  Quinnipiac  by  iron  bridge;  leaving  the  trolley  to  the  right  it 
continues  straight  to 

9.5     NORTHFORD.    Alt  76  ft.     (In  the  town  of  North  Branford.) 

Its  Indian  name  was  Paug,  and  here  about  1720  the  farmers 
of  Branford  established  a  summer  settlement  during  the  crop- 
growing  season,  returning  to  Branford  in  the  winter.  The 
first  permanent  settlement  here  was  in  1775.  In  posting  days 
there  were  several  taverns  here,  and  it  was  an  industrial  town 
with  fulling  mills  and  tanneries.  Today  combs,  tin  and 
wooden  articles  are  manufactured. 


R.    I   §  2.     NEW   HAVEN  TO   HARTFORD  III 

Beyond  Northford  the  route  follows  the  yellow  markers  to 
the  right.  To  the  south  is  Totoket  Mountain.  To  the  north  as 
it  crosses  the  boundary  line  into  Middlesex  County  is  Pista- 
paug  Pond  and  Mountain.  After  nine  miles  of  almost  straight 
road  it  enters  Durham  Center  and  turns  left  along  the  principal 
elm-shaded  street,  which  follows  the  crest  of  a  ridge  with  fine 
views  off  on  either  side.  The  broad  expanse  of  Durham  Mead- 
ows are  on  the  left  of  the  small  bridge  over  Mill  Brook. 

20. 5  DURHAM.  Alt  529  ft.  Pop(twp)997.  Middlesex  Co.  Settled 
1698.  Indian  name  Coginchaug,  "the  long  swamp."  Mfg. 
cash  and  safe  deposit  boxes. 

The  village  with  its  one  main  street  is  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful and  best  preserved  of  eighteenth  century  village  communi- 
ties, unspoiled  by  the  influx  of  modern  industries  or  foreign 
population.  In  1774  its  population  was  1076;  in  1810,  noi;  in 
1910,  997, — but  like  so  many  New  England  villages  it  has 
given  liberally  to  the  nation  of  its  sons.  Austin,  the  capital 
city  of  Texas,  is  named  for  a  native  of  Durham,  Moses  Austin, 
who,  in  1820,  inaugurated  a  scheme  for  the  colonization  of 
Texas.  Durham  established  the  first  public  library  in  Con- 
necticut in  1733. 

On  the  main  street  still  stands  the  pleasant  maple-shaded 
old  Swathel  Inn,  an  important  posting  hostel  in  old  stage 
coach  days,  where  Washington  was  entertained.  A  carved 
stone  in  its  cellar  bears  the  date  of  its  construction,  "June 
15,  1730."  To  the  north  is  Bear  Rock,  from  which  there  is  a 
fine  view.  This  was  a  favorite  hunting  ground  of  the  Matta- 
besett  Indians,  and  many  Indian  relics  have  been  found.  In 
1905  twenty  arrow  heads  were  dug  up  in  a  spring  here. 

The  main  street  of  Durham  continues  straight  on  as  a  State 
Road,  Durham  Ave.,  through  a  well  cultivated  peach-growing 
country.  The  yellow  bands  on  the  poles  mark  the  way  to 

30.0    MIDDLE! OWN  (R.  10). 

37.0    HARTFORD.    Alt  38  ft.    Pop  98,915  (1910),  115,000  (loc.  est. 
1915);    about   one  fourth  foreign-born;    one    half   foreign 
parentage,    including   Irish,    Germans,    Russians,    Italians, 
Swedes,  and  English.    State  capital,  County-seat  of  Hartford 
Co.    Indian  name  Suckeag.    Port  of  Entry.     Insurance  and 
banking     center,     tobacco    market.      Mfg.    firearms,    ma- 
chinery, hardware,  silver  plate,  typewriters,  rubber   tires, 
and  electrical  goods.    Insurance  assets,  about  $500,000,000; 
Value  of  Products  (1915),  $60,680,000;  Payroll,  $20,000,000. 
Hartford,  a  beautiful  and  historic  city  of  wealth,  has  been 
well  called  'The  Queen  City  of  New  England.'    Built  on  land 
rising  from   a  curving  bend  of  the   Connecticut,   its   broad 
shaded  streets,  substantial  public  buildings,  prosperous  resi- 
dences, accessible  well-kept  parks  lead  the  visitor  to  decide 


HARTFORD 


it  the  second  most  beautiful  of  American  cities,  his  own  civic 
pride,  of  course,  reserving  his  home  town  for  first  place.  As 
in  the  seventeenth  century,  "Hartford  is  a  gallant  town,  and 
many  rich  men  in  it."  There  is  less  of  newness  and  a  more 
prosperously  settled  look  about  its  streets  than  is  generally 
characteristic  of  our  cities,  as  befits  the  two  and  a  half  cen- 
turies of  historic  and  literary  associations. 


1  City  Hall  Square 

2  Charter  Oak  Site 

3  BushnellPark 


4  Capitol 

5  Keney  Memorial 

6  Trinity  College 


7  Elizabeth  Park 

8  Goodwin  Park 
q  Riverside  Park 


Occupying  a  commercially  strategic  position  on  the  lower 
Connecticut  valley,  fifty  miles  from  the  Sound,  its  present 
importance  was  first  established  by  river  trade  and  has  been 
maintained  by  the  railroads,  which  radiate  in  five  directions. 
Today  Hartford  is  not  only  the  capital  city  of  Connecticut, 
but  an  important  center  of  the  insurance  business,  a  city  of 
important  manufacturing  industries,  and  a  tobacco  market. 

City  Hall  Square,  the  heart  of  the  city,  was  originally  the 
'Meeting  House  Yard,'  or  Green,  and  of  greater  extent.  The 


R.   I   §  2.     NEW   HAVEN   TO   HARTFORD  113 

trolleys  now  center  at  the  forum  of  the  colonists,  where  they 
assembled  yearly  to  elect  their  officers,  and  here  were  wit- 
nessed and  celebrated  many  historic  events.  The  Square 
presents  interesting  traditions  of  oldtime  and  modern  archi- 
tecture. The  stately  old  brick  City  Hall,  completed  in  1796 
with  funds  raised  in  part  by  a  lottery,  was  used  as  the  State 
Capitol  for  nearly  a  hundred  years.  It  is  one  of  the  best 
examples  of  the  work  of  Bulfinch,  New  England's  first  and 
greatest  architect.  In  it  was  held  the  Hartford  Convention 
during  the  War  of  1812  at  which  the  secession  of  New  England 
from  the  Union  was  more  than  hinted  at. 

On  Main  St.  a  block  south  is  the  old  Center  Church,  a  fine 
example  of  meeting  house  architecture  with  a  Christopher 
Wren  spire.  This  'First  Church'  was  organized  in  1632  in 
Cambridge.  The  present  beautiful  edifice  was  completed  in 
1807  and  the  interior  has  been  little  changed.  The  early 
settlers  lie  in  the  ancient  burying  ground.  The  epitaph  of 
Samuel  Stone,  a  divine  who  died  in  1663,  begins, 

"New  England's  glory  and  her  radient  crowne 
Was  he,  who  now  on  softest  bed  of  downe, 
Till  glorious  resurrection  morn  appeare, 
Doth  safely,  sweetly  sleepe  in  Jesus  here." 

Opposite  the  church  is  the  castellated  front  of  the  Wads- 
worth  Athenaeum,  built  in  1842  on  the  site  of  the  founder's 
house,  where  Washington  and  Rochambeau  had  their  first 
conference.  On  the  Green  is  a  statue  of  Nathan  Hale.  Within 
are  valuable  libraries,  an  historical  museum,  a  bird  collection, 
and  an  art  collection,  including  canvases  by  Stuart,  Trumbull, 
West,  and  Sargent.  The  beautiful  Morgan  Art  Gallery  next 
the  Athenaeum  was  completed  in  1913  and  presented  to  the 
city  by  J.  Pierpont  Morgan  as  a  memorial  to  his  father,  Junius 
Spencer  Morgan,  a  native  of  Hartford.  Hartford's  handsome 
new  Municipal  Building  was  dedicated  in  November,  1915. 
Colt  Memorial  forms  the  connecting  link  between  the  Athe- 
naeum and  the  Morgan  Memorial  and  contains  memorials  of 
the  Colt  family,  including  a  collection  of  firearms  gathered 
by  Colonel  Samuel  Colt. 

Adjacent  are  the  buildings  of  the  ^Etna  Fire  and  ^Etna 
Life  Insurance  Companies,  and  nearby  are  the  Phoenix,  Hart- 
ford, and  Connecticut  Mutual.  The  Travelers  Insurance 
Building  stands  on  the  site  of  Zachary  Sanford's  tavern,  and 
it  was  here  in  1687  when  Governor  Andros  called  in  session 
the  General  Court  for  the  purpose,  so  it  was  mooted,  of  de- 
priving them  of  their  charter  of  liberties,  that  the  candles  were 
suddenly  extinguished  and  the  charter  spirited  away.  Just 
across  the  Park  river,  on  Charter  Oak  Place  off  Main  St.,  a 
tablet  marks  the  site  of  the  Charter  Oak  in  the  hollow  of 


114  HARTFORD 

which  the  charter  was  secreted.  The  tree  stood  on  the  Gover- 
nor Wyllis  homestead,  and  was  thirty-three  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence when  it  was  blown  down  in  1856.  Mark  Twain  asserted 
that  he  had  since  seen  made  from  the  wood:  "a  walking  stick, 
dog  collar,  needle  case,  three  legged  stool,  boot  jack,  dinner 
table,  ten  pin  alley,  tooth  pick,  and  enough  Charter  Oak  to 
build  a  plank  road  from  Hartford  to  Salt  Lake  City." 

At  the  further  end  of  Main  St.  in  Tunnel  Park  at  the 
junction  of  High  St.  and  Windsor  Ave.  is  the  Keney  Memorial 
Tower,  with  a  chime  clock.  On  the  river  nearby  is  the  beauti- 
ful Riverside  Park. 

In  the  center  of  the  city  is  Bushnell  Park,  a  beautiful  undulat- 
ing tract  of  fifty  acres  bordering  the  Park  river,  and  reclaimed 
in  1859  from  an  unsightly  spot  through  the  good  citizenship 
of  the  great  preacher  Horace  Bushnell  (d.  1876).  It  is  en- 
tered through  a  turreted  gateway,  a  memorial  to  soldiers 
of  the  Civil  War.  The  city's  outdoor  sculpture  exhibit  here 
includes  J.  Q.  A.  Ward's  statue  of  General  Israel  Putnam. 

Adjoining  are  the  Capitol  Grounds,  formerly  the  Campus  of 
Trinity  College.  The  State  Capitol,  a  conspicuous  object  in  all 
views  of  the  town,  is  of  Upjohn  Gothic  architecture,  com- 
pleted in  1880  at  a  cost  of  over  $3,300,000.  Within  are  Civil 
War  trophies,  and  statues  and  busts  of  Connecticut  worthies. 
The  dome  (250  ft)  commands  an  extensive  view. 

Facing  the  Capitol  Grounds  are  the  new  State  Arsenal  and 
Armory  of  granite,  completed  in  1910,  and  the  Connecticut 
State  Library,  completed  in  1914  at  a  cost  of  $1,500,000.  The 
latter  is  a  beautiful  and  dignified  example  of  Italian  Renaissance 
architecture.  The  archives  include  many  ancient  and  im- 
portant documents  and  charters,  the  oldest  bearing  the  auto- 
graph of  King  Charles  II.  In  Memorial  Hall  at  the  south 
end  hangs  Stuart's  celebrated  full  length  portrait  of  Washing- 
ton, and  beneath  in  a  cabinet  is  preserved  the  famous  charter 
which  for  a  time  was  secreted  in  the  Charter  Oak.  In  the  floor 
of  Memorial  Hall  there  is  a  central  tile  panel  showing  a  col- 
lection of  seals  used  by  the  State  of  Connecticut  at  various 
periods.  Here  is  the  Mitchelson  numismatic  collection  com- 
plete for  all  U.S.  coinages  and  issues. 

The  Hartford  Theological  Seminary,  founded  in  1733  at 
Windsor  and  transferred  to  Hartford  in  1865,  is  near  the 
Capitol  on  Broad  St.  It  has  a  famous  theological  library  of 
100,000  volumes  and  includes  the  Kennedy  School  of  Missions 
and  the  School  of  Religious  Pedagogy.  A  tract  of  thirty 
acres  has  been  purchased  in  the  western  part  of  Hartford,  to 
which  it  will  move  from  its  present  quarters. 

Above  Bushnell  Park  on  Asylum  Ave.  to  the  right  is  the 


R.    I   §  2.     NEW   HAVEN   TO   HARTFORD  115 

Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  founded  in  1817  by  Dr.  Gallaudet  who 
inaugurated  the  education  of  deaf  mutes. 

Farmington  Avenue,  a  handsome  residential  road,  is  rich  in 
literary  associations.  A  mile  and  a  quarter  from  the  center 
of  the  city  Mark  Twain's  house  stands  on  a  knoll  beside  an 
oak  grove  well  back  from  the  Avenue,  and  with  its  kitchen  and 
laundry  toward  the  street.  The  author  maintained  that  by 
this  unusual  arrangement  he  had  solved  the  servant  problem 
for  so  long  a  time  as  policemen  should  continue  to  wear  their 
uniforms  with  grace  and  sauntering  superiority.  The  house, 
gabled  and  vine  embowered,  is  built  of  many  kinds  of  colored 
brick  in  elaborate  and  fantastical  design.  Next  to  the  south, 
while  they  lived  there,  joined  by  a  well-worn  footpath,  is  the 
spacious  dwelling  where  Charles  Dudley  Warner  (1829-1900) 
lived  while  editor  of  the  "Hartford  Courant." 

Samuel  Langhorne  Clemens,  who  endeared  himself  to  the 
American  people  as  Mark  Twain,  after  the  success  of  his  "In- 
nocents Abroad"  came  to  Hartford  in  1871  and  lived  first  in 
a  "rambling  Gothic  cottage"  just  off  Forest  St.  Adjoining 
was  the  "little  red  brick  cottage  embowered  in  green"  where 
Warner  then  lived,  with  the  garden  at  the  back,  which  in- 
spired his  first  book,  "My  Summer  in  a  Garden."  It  was 
here,  too,  that  he  wrote  his  "Backlog  Studies."  Nearby  was 
the  slate-roofed  cottage  among  the  trees  and  shrubs  where 
Mrs.  H.  B.  Stowe  came  to  live  in  the  early  '7o's  and  which  re- 
mained her  home  until  her  death  in  1896,  and  here  came  her  ad- 
mirers from  all  quarters  to  pay  homage.  Near  the  top  of  Van- 
derbilt  Hill,  on  Farmington  Ave.,  is  the  residence  of  Ira  Dimock, 
erected  by  Cornelius  Vanderbilt  2d,  son  of  Cornelius  ist. 

The  Trinity  College  buildings,  designed  by  Surges  of  Lon- 
don in  early  English  style,  stand  out  on  Rocky  Hill  to  the 
south  of  the  city.  The  earliest  Episcopalian  college,  it  was 
chartered  in  1823  as  Washington  College,  and  became  Trinity 
in  1845.  The  steep  side  of  the  quarry  behind  the  buildings 
shows  clearly  the  interesting  structure  of  the  hill,  consisting 
of  trap  rock  overlying  the  horizontal  red  sandstones. 

Hartford  has  been  lavishly  supplied  with  parks  of  unusual 
beauty  through  the  foresight  and  generosity  of  her  citizens. 
They  number  twenty-one  and  aggregate  1335  acres.  Keney 
Park,  an  extensive  wild  tract  of  land  of  680  acres  in  the  north 
of  the  city,  is  the  gift  of  Henry  Keney.  Elizabeth  Park,  to 
the  west,  famous  for  its  rose  gardens,  floral  displays,  and  at- 
tractive landscaping,  is  the  gift  of  Charles  M.  Pond,  and 
named  for  his  wife.  Goodwin  Park  (200  acres),  Colt  Park 
(106  acres),  the  gift  of  Colonel  Colt's  widow,  and  Pope  Park 
(90  acres)  are  to  the  south.  Charter  Oak  Park,  so  called,  is  a 


Il6  HARTFORD 

trotting  park  and  fair  grounds.  There  are  also  charming 
drives  to  Tumbledown  Brook  and  Talcott  Mountain. 

The  first  settlement  on  the  site  of  Hartford  was  made  in  1633  by 
the  Dutch  from  New  Amsterdam  who  built  a  two  gun  fort  "The 
Hirse  of  Good  Hope"  at  the  junction  of  the  Park  and  Connecticut 
rivers,  to  this  day  known  as  Dutch  Point.  Two  years  later  appeared 
on  the  scene,  much  to  the  disgust  of  the  Dutch,  a  whole  congregation 
from  Newtowne  (now  Cambridge),  Mass.,  led  by  Thomas  Hooker, 
that  "rich  pearl  which  Europe  gave  to  America."  They  came  over- 
land, driving  their  cattle  before  them,  but  sent  their  goods  by  sea. 
At  first  they  called  their  settlement  Newtowne.  A  year  later  it  re- 
ceived its  present  name  in  honor  of  Hooker's  companion,  Samuel 
Stone,  whose  birthplace  was  Hertford,  England.  The  discrepancy  in 
spelling  does  not  imply  a  similar  difference  in  pronunciation,  for  in 
England  the  "er"  in  "clerk"  is  pronounced  as  "ar"  in  "dark." 

Hartford  immediately  became  a  place  of  significance  and  the  meeting 
place  of  the  first  General  Court  of  the  Connecticut  Colony.  Here  in 
1639  the  planters  of  the  neighboring  settlements  assembled  and  adopted 
"The  Fundamental  Orders,"  the  first  written  constitution  in  history. 

Under  the  influence  of  the  stern  Puritan  pastors  the  laws  of  this 
time  prescribed  the  death  penalty  for  idolatry,  witchcraft,  blasphemy, 
rebellion,  and  numerous  similarly  heinous  offenses. 

The  famous  version  of  the  Blue  Laws  which  makes  such  interesting 
reading  was  due  to  Samuel  Peters,  an  Episcopal  minister  whose 
stanch  loyalty  to  the  crown  so  provoked  the  'Sons  of  Liberty'  that  he 
was  mobbed,  threatened  with  tar  and  feathers,  and  driven  out  of  town. 
With  vengeance  in  his  heart  he  published  anonymously  in  London  in 
1781,  "A  General  History  of  Connecticut,  Including  a  Description  of 
the  Country,  And  many  curious  and  interesting  Anecdotes."  In 
this  he  gave  the  long  accepted  but  spurious  version  of  the  Blue  Laws. 

Some  of  these,  as  he  gave  them,  stipulated  that  "No  woman  shall 
kiss  her  child  on  the  Sabbath  or  Fasting  Days,"  "No  minister  shall 
keep  school,"  "No  one  shall  travel,  make  beds,  cook,  sweep  house, 
shave,  or  cut  hair  on  the  Sabbath,"  "No  one  shall  read  the  common 
prayer,  keep  Christmas  or  Saints'  Days,  make  minced  pies,  dance, 
play  cards,  or  play  on  any  instrument  of  music  except  it  be  the  drum, 
trumpet,  or  a  Jewsharp." 

Peters  presented  a  somewhat  distorted  and  biased  portrait  of  the 
Connecticut  Puritans,  who,  he  said,  "out-pop'd  the  Pope,  out-king'd 
the  King,  and  out-bishop'd  the  Bishops." 

'Blue  Laws,'  as  a  matter  of  fact,  were  common  to  all  the  Colonies. 
For  example,  Massachusetts  in  1647  banished  Quakers  under  penalty 
of  death  if  they  returned,  while  New  Haven  more  mercifully  never 
threatened  Quakers  with  death,  but  gave  them  the  choice  of  im- 
prisonment, banishment,  whipping,  and  branding,  with  the  thrifty 
proviso  that  the  expense  was  to  be  paid  by  the  victim. 

Puritan  seriousness  interfered  with  the  enjoyment  of  a  joke  as 
appears  in  a  Connecticut  record  of  1648,  as  follows:  "The  Court  ad- 
judgeth  Peter  Bussaker  for  his  filthy  and  profane  expressions  (namely, 
that  he  hoped  to  meete  some  of  the  members  of  the  church  in  hell 
ere  long,  and  he  did  not  but  question  that  he  should)  to  be  committed 
to  prison,  there  to  be  kept  in  safe  custody,  till  the  sermon,  and  then  to 
stand  the  time  thereof  in  the  pillory,  and  after  to  be  severely  whipped." 

Forty  years  before  Salem  became  interested  in  the  hunting  down  and 
exterminating  of  witches  the  Land  of  Steady  Habits  entered  upon 
such  a  campaign.  In  1662  quite  an  epidemic  of  witch-hanging  broke 
out  in  Hartford.  Among  those  caught  in  the  net  at  this  time  were 
Nathaniel  Greensmith  of  Hartford  and  his  wife,  who  lived  on  the 


R.   I   §   2.     NEW   HAVEN   TO   HARTFORD  117 

present  Wethersfield  Ave.  He  was  a  well-to-do  farmer,  though  he 
had  been  occasionally  convicted  of  theft,  assault,  and  lying,  and  his 
wife  Rebecca  was  described  by  Rev.  John  Whiting  as  a  "lewd,  ig- 
norant, and  considerably  aged  woman."  They  each  seemed  to  sus- 
pect the  other  of  familiarity  with  Satan,  and  as  a  result  of  this  and 
other  suspicions  were  hanged  in  1662  on  Gallows  Hill  about  where 
Trinity  College  now  stands,  from  which  the  crowd  in  the  meadows 
could  witness  the  show. 

Washington  came  to  Hartford  from  the  Hudson  by  way  of  Litch- 
field  with  a  guard  of  twenty-two  dragoons  in  September,  1780,  to 
confer  with  Rochambeau,  whose  aide-de-camp  wrote  of  Washington 
on  this  occasion:  "This  most  illustrious  man  of  our  century.  His 
majestic,  handsome  countenance  is  stamped  with  an  honesty  and  a 
gentleness  which  correspond  well  with  his  moral  qualities.  He  looks 
like  a  hero;  ...  he  is  very  cold,  speaks  little,  but  is  frank  and  courteous 
in  manner;  a  tinge  of  melancholy  affects  his  whole  bearing,  which 
renders  him,  if  possible,  more  interesting."  It  was  during  Wash- 
ington's absence  at  this  time  that  Benedict  Arnold  betrayed  West 
Point  to  the  enemy,  and  it  was  the  patrol  of  farmers  formed  to  insure 
Washington's  safe  journey  to  Hartford  on  this  occasion  who  were 
directly  responsible  for  the  capture  of  Major  Andre. 

Some  time  after  the  Revolution  Hartford  became  perhaps  the  chief 
literary  center  of  the  country  because  of  the  'Hartford  Wits,'  an  in- 
fluential group  of  literary  men  who  were  the  publicists  of  the  Feder- 
alist Party.  They  were  a  group  of  nine  young  Yale  graduates  who 
banded  together  for  the  cultivation  of  letters  and  for  a  time  resided 
in  Hartford.  John  Trumbull,  Timothy  Dwight,  and  Joel  Barlow 
were  the  leaders.  Timothy  Dwight  wrote  an  epic  in  twelve  books, 
"The  Conquest  of  Canaan,"  and  his  "Travels  in  New  England,"  the 
first  guide  book  to  this  region,  is  good  reading.  In  addition  to  celebri- 
ties previously  mentioned  are  John  Fiske,  historian,  Gideon  Welles, 
Secretary  of  the  Navy  under  President  Lincoln,  and  Frederick  Law 
Olmsted.  Hiram  P.  Maxim,  the  inventor  of  the  Maxim  silencer,  and 
son  of  the  inventor  of  the  Maxim  gun,  is  a  native  of  the  city  and  one 
of  the  most  prominent  residents  of  the  present  day. 

Up  to  the  nineteenth  century  Hartford's  commerce  was  her  chief 
source  of  wealth,  but  the  advent  of  the  railroads  brought  a  change, 
and  manufacturing  and  insurance  have  since  been  the  chief  source  of 
income.  The  manufacture  of  woolens  commenced  with  the  erection 
of  the  first  woolen  -mill  in  New  England  in  1788.  In  1846,  or  there- 
abouts, the  Rogers  process  of  electro-silver  plating  was  invented  and 
patented  here.  Not  long  afterward  the  manufacture  of  firearms  be- 
came another  leading  industry.  This  was  due  to  the  efforts  of  Colonel 
Samuel  Colt,  born  at  Hartford,  July  19,  1814.  He  was  hardly  more 
than  a  lad  when  he  sailed  before  the  mast  to  Calcutta  and  back.  On 
the  voyage  he  worked  out  the  idea  of  his  famous  revolver  and  made  a 
wooden  model  of  it.  Upon  his  return  he  was  unable  to  secure  the 
interest  or  financial  backing  necessary.  To  obtain  funds  he  toured 
the  country  delivering  lectures  on  chemistry.  In  1858,  60,000  re- 
volvers were  made.  Today  the  Colt  Patent  Firearms  Company  is 
one  of  the  leading  firms  in  this  city,  manufacturing  revolvers,  auto- 
matic pistols,  and  automatic  machine  guns.  Connecticut  produces 
four  fifths  of  the  total  value  of  ammunition  of  the  United  States,  and 
one  fourth  of  the  value  of  firearms.  Underwood  and  Royal  Type- 
writers, the  machine  tools  of  the  Pratt  and  Whitney  Company,  church 
organs,  engines,  harnesses,  and  horseshoe  nails  are  local  products. 

In  the  business  world  Hartford  ranks  first  of  all  as  an  insurance 
center.  The  origin  of  the  insurance  business  dates  from  Colonial 
days,  when  the  merchant  traders  whose  ships  sailed  to  the  West  Indies 


Il8  HARTFORD— EAST   WINDSOR 


and  the  Spanish  Main  realized  the  value  of  having  their  cargoes 
underwritten  or  insured  against  the  depredations  of  the  buccaneers 
and  pirates  who  thronged  the  seas.  In  1794  the  following  card  ap- 
peared in  the  "Hartford  Courant": 

"HARTFORD  FIRE  INSURANCE  OFFICE. 

The  subscribers  have  this  day  opened  an  office  for  the  purpose  of 
insuring  Houses,  Household  Furniture,  Goods,  Wares,  Merchandise 
etc.  against  Fire. 

Sanford  and  Wadsworth. 

Hartford,  loth  March,  1794." 

In  1810  a  charter  was  secured  by  the  Hartford  Fire  Insurance  Com- 
pany with  a  capital  of  $150,000.  It  is  now  the  second  oldest  stock 
fire  insurance  company  in  America. 

The  growth  of  this  business  continued  steadily  until  now  there  are 
a  dozen  or  more  companies  that  have  been  born  and  brought  up  here. 
Among  these  are  the  Hartford  Fire,  which  issued  a  policy  as  early  as 
1794,  Hartford  Life,  /Etna  (fire),  JEtna,  Life,  Phoenix  Fire,  Phoenix 
Mutual  Life,  Travelers,  National  Fire,  Connecticut  General  Life, 
Connecticut  Mutual  Life,  and  Connecticut  Fire.  The  assets  of  the 
Hartford  companies  total  about  $500,000,000.  Since  the  beginning 
of  fire  insurance  in  this  city,  $340,000,000  have  been  paid  out.  The 
San  Francisco  Fire  occasioned  payments  of  $18,000,000  by  Hartford 
companies.  More  than  5000  people  in  Hartford  live  by  insurance. 

The  main  route  follows  the  east  bank  of  the  Connecticut 
from  this  point  to  Springfield.  For  the  route  along  the  west 
bank  see  Route  10. 

R.  1  §  3.  Hartford  to  Springfield.  27.0  m. 

Via  ENFIELD.  STATE  ROAD  with  blue  markers. 

From  City  Hall  go  east  on  Central  Row  and  State  St.  and 
north  on  the  Boulevard  to  the  river  and  the  magnificent  new 
$3,000,000  nine  arch  stone  bridge,  completed  in  1908,  on  the 
site  of  the  old  wooden  toll  bridge  burned  in  1895.  From  the 
bridge  down  stream  is  the  great  plant  of  the  Colt  Firearms  Com- 
pany, above  are  Riverside  Park  and  the  Keney  Memorial  Tower. 

From  EAST  HARTFORD  (1.8)  a  trunk  line  State  Road  marked 
in  red,  Route  3,  runs  eastward  to  Willimantic,  Putnam,  etc. 
The  route  to  Springfield  turns  north  following  the  trunk  line 
State  Road,  marked  in  blue,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Connec- 
ticut, and  generally  parallel  with  and  half  a  mile  from  the  river 
bank.  It  is  a  succession  of  village  streets  almost  completely 
lined  with  houses  and  tobacco  farms. 

East  Hartford  was  the  home  of  a  man  who  more  than  any  other 
had  to  do  with  the  settlement  of  Connecticut  valley.  He  was  Wah- 
quinnacut,  a  leader  of  the  Podunks,  who  went  to  Boston  and  Plymouth 
in  1631  to  urge  the  English  to  come  to  settle  in  his  beautiful  valley  with 
its  rich  meadows  and  abundant  fur  and  fish.  The  Podunks  had  a 
stronghold  on  Fort  Hill  to  the  east  of  the  present  Main  St.,  and  lived 
peaceably  enough  with  the  white  settlers  until  King  Philip's  War. 
A  few  of  them  continued  to  live  near  the  Podunk  river  until  the  middle 
of  the  eighteenth  century. 

Two  miles  to  the  east  is  the  little  factory  hamlet  of  Burnside,  at  the 
falls  of  the  Hockanum  river,  where  since  1784  paper  has  been  made 


R.   I   §  3-     HARTFORD   TO   SPRINGFIELD  1 19 

on  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  East  Hartford  Mfg.  Co.,  makers  of 
fine  writing  papers. 

Originally  this  was  known  as  Pitkins  Falls,  from  a  family  of  that 
name  which  early  established  a  fulling  mill  here.  Colonel  Joseph 
Pitkin  had  an  iron  forge  here,  but  in  1750,  when  the  British  trade  regu- 
lations stopped  iron  working  in  the  Colonies,  he  transformed  it  into  a 
factory  for  the  manufacture  of  gunpowder  by  a  grim  sort  of  justice, 
to  be  used  against  the  home  government  in  1775. 

6.0    SOUTH  WINDSOR.    Alt  70  ft.    Pop  (twp)  2251.    Hartford  Co. 
Settled  1640.    Tobacco. 

The  village  was  formerly  part  of  East  Windsor,  and  East  Windsor 
Hill  Post  Office  today  is  in  South  Windsor. 

During  the  Revolution  many  prisoners  of  war  were  sent  here  for 
safe  keeping,  among  them  William  Franklin,  Royal  Governor  of  New 
Jersey,  and  son  of  Dr.  Franklin.  Governor  Franklin  was  quartered 
at  the  house  of  Lieutenant  Diggin,  about  a  mile  south  of  the  Congre- 
gational Church,  where  he  lived  in  princely  style.  He  was  extremely 
fond  of  sour  punch,  and  in  a  retired  bower  near  Podunk  Brook  he  pre- 
pared and  served  his  favorite  beverage  to  his  French  visitors,  for 
Lafayette  after  the  abandonment  of  the  project  for  invading  Canada 
made  his  headquarters  here  in  the  house  of  Mr.  Porter.  The  ancient 
elms  still  bordering  the  road  were  planted  by  British  and  Hessian 
prisoners  at  the  suggestion  and  under  the  direction  of  Lafayette. 

John  Fitch,  the  inventor  of  the  first  steamboat,  was  born  here  in 
1743.  The  Fitches  were  early  settlers  in  Windsor.  John's  unhappy 
childhood  under  a  grim  taskmaster  of  a  father  was  followed  by  an 
equally  unhappy  life.  Apprenticed  to  Timothy  Cheney  to  learn 
clock-making,  he  was  kept  at  ignoble  tasks  instead  of  being  taught 
the  trade.  In  the  Revolution  his  efforts  to  serve  his  country  were 
unappreciated.  As  early  as  1785  he  constructed  a  brass  model  of  a 
small  paddle-wheel  steamboat  which  he  tried  out  with  entire  success. 
In  1788  he  obtained  patents  from  four  States  and  in  1791  from  the  U.S. 
Federal  Government,  covering  the  application  of  steam  as  a  motive 
power  for  marine  purposes.  His  first  boat,  built  in  1787,  maintained  a 
speed  of  eight  miles  an  hour  over  a  course  of  one  mile  and  later  made  a 
whole  day's  run  of  eighty  miles  at  Philadelphia.  Fitch  predicted  that 
in  time  to  come  the  Atlantic  would  be  crossed  in  steamboats.  He  was 
too  early  for  his  time,  however,  and  misfortune  followed  him.  On 
the  trial  trip  of  a  new  boat  with  three  paddle-wheels  and  a  tubular 
boiler,  the  boiler  burst.  He  went  to  France  to  introduce  his  invention, 
but,  the  French  Revolution  coming  on,  his  enterprise  proved  a  failure. 
After  vain  attempts  to  interest  capitalists,  and  a  period  of  wandering 
in  the  Ohio  river  country  during  which  he  was  taken  captive  by 
Indians  and  his  health  impaired  by  exposure,  he  died  a  suicide  in  1798 
in  Kentucky.  The  site  of  his  birthplace  is  marked  by  a  monument 
on  the  old  King's  Highway,  a  quarter  mile  east  of  the  route. 

At  East  Windsor  Hill  near  the  northern  limits  of  South 
Windsor  on  the  right  side  of  the  road  near  the  old  cemetery 
was  the  birthplace  of  Jonathan  Edwards,  the  celebrated 
divine  of  the  eighteenth  century,  who  discovered  that  "hell 
is  paved  with  infants'  skulls." 

8.0    EAST  WINDSOR.     Alt  86  ft.     Pop  (twp)  3362.     Hartford  Co. 

Settled  1638.    Mfg.  silks  and  woolens. 

Two  miles  north  of  Podunk  River  is  the  old  Grant  family 
house,  with  a  highboy  doorway.  This  was  the  ancestral  home 


120  EAST  WINDSOR— SPRINGFIELD 

of  Gen.  U.  S.  Grant's  forefathers.  The  old  brick  buildings  on 
the  same  side  of  the  street  were  formerly  occupied  by  the 
Theological  Seminary,  now  removed  to  Hartford. 

At  Warehouse  Point  (13.5)  in  1638  William  Pynchon  built 
a  warehouse  at  the  foot  of  the  falls,  where  furs  and  merchan- 
dise were  loaded  on  sea-going  vessels.  The  site  has  been 
located  by  antiquaries  about  a  hundred  yards  below  the 
present  ferry.  Rye  gin  is  extensively  made  here. 

On  the  wide  Toll  Bridge  from  Warehouse  Point  to  Windsor  Locks 
is  the  quaint  sign  of  the  ancient  East  Windsor  Ferry: 
"Each  ox  or  other  neat  kine  .o6J^c 
Each  sheep  swine  or  goat  7  mills    'No  Trust'" 

17.5  ENFIELD.  Alt  78  ft.  Pop  (twp)  9719.  Hartford  Co.  Settled 
1681.  Mfg.  carpets  and  coffin  hardware. 

The  situation  on  a  level  terrace  of  the  Connecticut  commands 
a  broad  view.  The  Shaker  village  in  the  valley  to  the  east 
was  established  here  in  1788.  Near  it  is  the  village  of  Haz- 
ardville,  where  there  are  extensive  powder  mills.  Settled  by 
people  from  Salem,  Enfield  remained  within  the  jurisdiction  of 
Massachusetts  until  1752  because  of  a  mistake  of  the  early 
surveyors  in  setting  the  boundary  line  of  Massachusetts  too 
far  south. 

As  we  cross  Fresh  Water  Brook  on  the  left  is  the  manufac- 
turing town  of  THOMPSONVILLE  (18.5)  with  long-established 
carpet  works  and  factories  for  the  production  of  printing 
presses.  The  father  of  local  manufacturing  interests  is  Orrin 
Thompson,  who  served  an  apprenticeship  in  a  New  York 
carpet  store,  returned  to  his  home  town,  set  up  a  factory  for 
manufacturing  carpets  in  1828,  and  so  founded  an  industry 
which  thrives  to  this  day. 

Just  beyond  Conchusett  Farm  (20.5)  the  road  crosses  the 
Massachusetts  State  Line  at  which  is  State  Line  Park. 

22.2  LONGMEADOW.  Alt  64  ft.  Pop  1084  (1910),  1782  (1915). 
Hampden  Co.  Mfg.  brick  and  tile. 

The  long,  narrow  village  Green  is  to  the  right.  The  church 
on  the  Green  has  a  bell  cast  in  1810  by  Paul  Revere.  At  the 
end  of  the  village,  with  a  brown  sandstone  mile  post  in  front,  is 
the  romantic  old  Ely  Mansion,  built  about  1774  by  Deacon 
Nathaniel  Ely,  Jr.,  from  brick  baked  in  front  of  the  site. 

Here  were  spent  five  years  of  the  boyhood  of  the  Dauphin  of  France, 
as  Eleazar  Williams  later  supposed  himself  to  be.  To  the  deacon 
came  for  their  education  in  1800  two  young  kinsmen,  Eleazar  and  John 
Williams,  grandsons  of  Eunice  Williams  of  Deerfield  (R.  10).  John 
showed  every  evidence  of  Indian  blood  and  failed  to  profit  by  his 
associations  and  study.  Eleazar  was  a  lovable  boy,  courtly  and  noble 
in  his  bearing.  Not  until  much  later,  as  the  result  of  accumulated 
evidence,  did  he  come  to  believe  himself  the  lost  son  of  Louis  XVI 
and  Marie  Antoinette.  Much  of  his  later  life  was  spent  as  a  mission- 
ary with  the  Oneida  Indians,  with  whom  he  became  a  strong  influence. 


R.    I    §  3.     HARTFORD    TO    SPRINGFIELD  12 1 

Leaving  Longmeadow  there  is  a  view  ahead  of  Springfield, 
with  Mt.  Tom  and  the  Holyoke  range  to  the  north.  To  the 
left  is  the  white  tower  of  the  new  City  Hall.  On  entering 
Springfield  on  Pecousic  Ave.,  Forest  Park  lies  to  the  right, 
with  a  monument  to  President  McKinley  and  the  Barney 
mausoleum  and  residence.  At  the  fork  bear  to  the  right, 
across  the  Mill  river  into  Main  St.,  the  center  of  the  city,  meet- 
ing Route  13  from_theJ3erkshires  and  the  West. 


THE  ROMANTIC   OLD    ELY  MANSION,    LONGMEADOW 

27.0  SPRINGFIELD.  Alt  100  ft.  Pop  88,926  (1910),  102,103  (1915); 
28,000  foreign-born.  County-seat  of  Hampden  Co.  Settled 
1636.  Indian  name  Agaam  or  Agawam,  "meadow."  Distrib- 
uting center.  Waterpower  from  Mill  River.  Mfg.  firearms, 
skates,  paper,  toys,  foundry  and  machine-shop  products,  tex- 
tiles, machinery,  automobiles,  motorcycles,  railroad  cars;  meat 
packing.  Value  of  Product  (1913),  $43,509,000;  Payroll, 
$9,948,000. 

Springfield,  the  chief  city  of  western  Massachusetts,  rivals 
Hartford  in  population,  wealth,  civic  pride,  and  the  natural 
beauty  and  advantages  of  its  situation.  Many  examples  of 
fine  architecture  give  the  city  a  dignity  which  is  well  main- 
tained by  its  spacious  parks,  beautifully  shaded  streets,  and 
the  excellence  of  its  educational  and  public  institutions.  Dur- 
ing the  past  few  years  there  has  been  a  good  deal  of  agitation 
for  the  reclamation  of  the  picturesque  waterfront,  now  marred 
by  railway  tracks. 

The  city  is  built  on  a  sandy  plain  along  the  east  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  and  on  a  series  of  terrace-like  slopes  which  rise 
to  an  altitude  of  about  150  feet  above  the  sea.  The  situation 
at  the  junction  of  the  Boston  &  Albany  and  the  New  York, 
New  Haven,  &  Hartford  railroads  makes  it  the  important 
distributing  center  for  the  middle  Connecticut  valley  region. 


SPRINGFIELD 


Large  slaughter-houses  and  meat-packing  plants  are  situated 
here,  and  there  is  a  wide  diversity  of  local  industries;  but  to 
the  outer  world  Springfield  brings  to  mind  the  historic  Arsenal, 
Smith  &  Wesson  Revolvers,  and  Barney  &  Berry  Skates. 

Court  Square,  shaded  by  many  noble  old  elm  trees,  is  the 
civic  and  historic  center.  The  plot  was  bought  in  1820  for 
$3000  by  a  group  of  citizens,  and  was  presented  to  Hampden 
County.  Here  in  the  Colonial  days  stood  the  stocks  and  the 
whipping  post.  Next  the  meeting  house  was  the  old  Parsons 
Tavern,  where  Washington  drank  his  flip.  "Reached  Spring- 
field by  4  o'clock,"  he  wrote  in  his  Diary  under  the  date  of 
Oct.  21,  1789,  "and  while  dinner  was  getting,  examined  the 
Continental  Stores  at  this  place.  .  .  .  Gen.  Shepherd,  Mr. 
Lyman  and  many  other  Gentlemen  sat  an  hour  or  two  with 
me  in  the  evening  at  Parsons's  Tavern,  where  I  lodged,  and 
which  is  a  good  House." 

In  the  Square  stands  the  sturdy  bronze  figure  of  Sergeant 
Miles  Morgan,  with  bell-mouthed  gun  over  his  shoulder  and 
hoe  in  hand,  who  came  from  Bristol,  England,  in  1636,  and 
later  settled  in  Springfield.  He  became  the  progenitor  of  the 
multi-millionaire  New  York  financiers.  The  Court  House 
(1874),  at  the  southwest  corner  of  the  Square,  was  one  of  the 
first  buildings  designed  by  Henry  H.  Richardson,  the  famous 
architect.  The  First  Congregational  Church,  a  fine  example 
of  the  old  New  England  meeting  house,  built  in  1819,  is  the 
fourth  edifice  of  this  congregation,  organized  in  1637.  The 
copper  weathercock  which  surmounts  the  spire  was  made  in 
England,  and  has  looked  down  upon  the  town  for  over  a  cen- 
tury and  a  half. 

The  new  Municipal  Buildings,  facing  Court  Square,  consti- 
tute one  of  the  finest  architectural  groups  in  the  country.  It 
consists  of  two  classic  structures  of  Indiana  limestone,  with 
colonnades  of  ten  forty-foot  Corinthian  columns,  completed 
in  the  fall  of  1913  at  a  cost  of  $2,000,000.  In  the  building  on 
the  right  are  the  city  offices,  and  on  the  left  the  Auditorium, 
with  a  seating  capacity  of  4200.  Between  them  stands  the 
Campanile,  or  clock  tower  (300  ft),  from  which  there  is  an 
extensive  view  of  the  Connecticut  valley.  The  twelve  bells 
in  the  tower  chime  the  '  Cambridge  Quarters '  of  Handel  and 
are  also  used  for  ringing  carillons. 

Main  Street,  a  prosaic  business  thoroughfare,  is  the  industrial 
artery  of  the  city.  It  follows  the  course  of  the  old  Indian 
trail  along  which  were  built  the  log  huts  of  the  first  settlers. 
Some  of  the  most  notable  buildings  fronting  on  it  are  the 
Post  Office  and  Customs  House,  the  Third  National  Bank 
Building,  the  Union  Trust  Company,  and  the  Massachusetts 


R.   I   §  3-     HARTFORD   TO    SPRINGFIELD  123 

Mutual  Life  Insurance  Company.  North  of  the  Square  is  the 
shopping  district,  and  south  is  the  State  Armory. 

The  "  Springfield  Republican  "  has  a  national  reputation.  On 
the  front  of  the  building  at  Main  St.  and  Harrison  Ave.  is 
a  bronze  relief  of  Samuel  Bowles  by  Daniel  Chester  French. 
The  paper  was  established  in  1824  by  Samuel  Bowles,  whose 
son  (d.  1878),  grandson  (d.  1915)  of  the  same  name,  and 
great-grandson,  Sherman  Bowles,  have  carried  on  his  tradi- 
tions of  editorship.  At  first  a  weekly,  in  1844  it  became  a 
daily,  and  in  1878  the  first  Sunday  issue  appeared.  In  1849 
Dr.  J.  G.  Holland  became  the  editor  and  gave  the  "Republican" 
a  literary  flavor  it  long  retained.  He  bought  an  interest,  and 
his  intimate  association  with  it  extended  through  seventeen 
years.  Holland's  home  where  he  wrote  the  best  of  his  his- 
toric romances,  "The  Bay  Path,"  was  at  115  High  St.  His 
grave  in  the  Springfield  Cemetery  is  marked  with  a  bronze 
bas-relief  by  Saint-Gaudens. 

The  railroad  is  carried  across  Main  St.  on  a  massive  stone 
arch  of  fine  architectural  lines.  The  station  building  was  de- 
signed by  H.  H.  Richardson,  but  has  an  inefficient  track  ar- 
rangement and  inadequate  platform  facilities.  Opposite  the 
station,  on  a  blank  brick  wall,  during  the  summer  of  1915, 
was  displayed  this  flamboyant  legend  in  lines  sixty  feet  long, 
and  letters  two  feet  high: 

"Some  one  has  said  that  when  the  Creator  had  made  all  the  good 
things  there  still  remained  some  work  to  do;  so  he  made  beasts  and 
reptiles  and  poisonous  insects,  and  when  he  had  finished  there  were  some 
scraps  left;  so  he  put  all  these  together,  covered  it  with  suspicion, 
marked  it  with  a  yellow  streak,  and  called  it  a  Knocker. 

"This  product  was  so  fearful  to  contemplate  that  he  had  to  make 
something  to  counteract  it;  so  he  took  a  sunbeam,  put  in  it  the  heart  of 
a  child,  the  brains  of  a  man,  wrapped  these  in  civic  pride,  covered  it 
with  brotherly  love,  gave  it  a  mask  of  velvet  and  a  grasp  of  steel  and 
called  it  a  Booster." 

At  either  end  of  the  gigantic  legend  are  two  marvelous  bits 
of  'still  life';  a  twenty-foot  peach  basket  out  of  which  roll 
brilliant  peaches  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  a  cantaloupe 
twenty  feet  in  diameter,  enticingly  cut  open. 

Hampden  Park,  a  one-time  race  track,  is  now  a  baseball 
ground.  It  originated  from  a  horse  show  held  here  in  1852 
and  was  opened  with  an  oration  by  Henry  Ward  Beecher. 
Four  bridges  span  the  river,  the  most  ancient  of  which  is  the 
Old  Toll  Bridge,  a  covered  wooden  structure  originally  built 
in  1805  by  Isaac  Damon  with  funds  raised  in  part  by  lottery 
and  rebuilt  in  1816.  The  project  was  considered  a  great  en- 
gineering enterprise  and  met  with  violent  opposition.  In  town 
meeting  one  of  the  local  bigwigs  solemnly  declared,  "  Gentlemen, 
you  might  just  as  well  undertake  to  bridge  the  Atlantic!'' 


124  SPRINGFIELD 

State  Street  extends  across  the  city  from  the  river,  its  con- 
tinuation eastward  being  known  as  Boston  Road.  It  is  a 
broad  and  dignified  thoroughfare,  delightfully  shaded  and 
bordered  by  some  of  the  city's  most  notable  institutions. 

The  new  City  Library  on  State  St.  was  the  gift  of  Andrew 
Carnegie  ($200,000)  and  378  Springfield  citizens  ($155,000). 
It  is  a  beautiful  and  stately  example  of  Italian  Renaissance 
architecture  in  Vermont  marble,  designed  by  Edward  L. 
Tilton.  At  present  the  Library  contains  200,000  books  and 
has  capacity  for  half  a  million.  It  has  an  enviable  reputation 
for  the  liberality  and  efficiency  of  its  management. 

In  Merrick  Park,  adjoining  the  Library  grounds,  stands  Saint- 
Gaudens'  vigorous  and  masterly  statue  "The  Puritan,"  osten- 
sibly a  representation  of  Deacon  Samuel  Chapin.  As  Supreme 
Court  Jiistice  Hughes  together  with  his  friend  were  being 
shown  about  the  sculptor's  studio  at  Cornish  by  Mrs.  Saint- 
Gaudens,  they  paused  before  the  statue  of  "The  Puritan," 
typical  in  garb  and  pose  of  the  austerity  and  sternness  of  the 
type.  Gazing  up  into  his  hard-lined  face,  the  friend  broke 
the  silence  with  the  platitude,  "Ah,  that  was  the  kind  of 
men  that  made  America."  Judge  Hughes  came  back  quickly: 
"Thank  God  they  made  only  a  little  part  of  it." 

The  Art  Museum,  adjacent  to  the  Library,  is  in  the  same 
general  style  of  architecture.  In  panels  on  the  end  walls  are 
set  in  metal  letters  the  names  of  the  world's  great  artists,  in- 
cluding those  of  China  and  Japan.  The  George  Walter 
Vincent  Smith  collection  of  Oriental  porcelains,  cloisonnes, 
bronzes,  jades,  lacquers,  etc.,  occupy  many  rooms.  There 
are  also  interesting  Mohammedan  manuscripts  and  an  excel- 
lent collection  of  ancient  Oriental  rugs.  Mrs.  Smith's  collec- 
tion of  laces  and  embroideries  fills  many  cases.  Springfield's 
advanced  position  in  the  art  world  is  largely  due  to  the  in- 
fluence and  inspiration  of  George  W.  V.  Smith,  a  traveler  and 
connoisseur  who  had  exceptional  opportunities  for  bringing 
together  an  unusual  collection  of  Japanese  and  Chinese  art. 
On  his  offering  to  bequeath  his  collections  to  the  City  Library 
Association  a  building  was  provided  by  the  subscriptions  of 
the  public-spirited  citizens.  The  Science  Museum,  a  low 
building  with  a  Doric  portico,  back  of  the  Art  Museum,  con- 
tains natural  history  collections.  At  49  Chestnut  St.  is  the 
house  in  which  George  Bancroft,  the  historian,  lived  during 
his  three  years'  residence  in  Springfield,  1835-38. 

Nearly  opposite  the  Library  and  Museum  is  a  notable  group 
of  school  buildings, — the  new  million-dollar  High  School  of 
Commerce,  the  great  Technical  High  School,  one  of  the  largest 
in  New  England,  and  the  Central  High  School.  Throughout 


R.    I   §  3-     HARTFORD   TO    SPRINGFIELD  125 

the  city  the  school  buildings  are  conspicuous.  Springfield 
early  took  rank  in  the  educational  world  through  the  influence 
of  Dr.  Thomas  M.  Balliet,  who  from  1888  to  1904  was  in 
charge  of  the  school  system,  and  put  Springfield  on  the  map  of 
the  educational  world. 

The  American  International  College,  located  since  1888  on 
upper  State  St.,  trains  foreign  young  men  and  women  of  twenty 
nationalities  in  American  ideals  and  gives  them  a  command 
of  the  English  language.  The  Y.M.C.A.  Training  College, 
where  secretaries  and  gymnasium  instructors  are  prepared  for 
their  special  work,  is  the  only  one  of  the  kind.  The  Mac- 
Dufne  School  occupies  the  homestead  of  the  father  of  the  late 
Samuel  Bowles  on  Crescent  Hill. 

The  Church  of  the  Unity,  on  State  St.,  opposite  the  Library, 
which  is  adorned  with  some  splendid  Tiffany  windows,  and  the 
North  Congregational  Church,  two  blocks  north  on  Salem  St., 
are  the  work  of  H.  H.  Richardson.  In  the  parish  house  of 
Christ  Church,  Chestnut  St.  near  State,  is  another  notable 
work  of  art,  the  painted  glass  window  of  Mary  at  the  Tomb, 
by  John  La  Farge.  The  Holy  Family  Church,  on  Eastern 
Ave.,  a  fine  example  of  the  Early  English  Perpendicular,  con- 
tains carvings  by  Kirchmayer  of  Oberammergau. 

The  old  Rockingham  House,  a  relic  of  stage  coach  days, 
still  stands  at  the  corner  of  State  and  Walnut  Sts.  Opposite 
it,  in  Benton  Park,  is  a  curious  guide  stone,  erected  in  1763 
by  Joseph  Wait,  a  Brookfield  merchant  who  lost  his  way  here 
in  a  blinding  snow-storm.  Masonic  emblems  are  carved  on 
the  stone,  which  is  scarred  by  bullets  fired  by  General  Shepard's 
troops  at  Shays'  insurgent  forces,  and  bears  the  inscription, 
"For  the  benefit  of  travellers,"  above  which  appears  the 
motto,  "Virtus  est  sua  merces." 

The  United  States  Arsenal,  established  by  Congress  in  1794, 
occupies  a  part  of  74  acres  on  the  left  of  State  St.  The  spacious 
and  well  kept  grounds  are  entered  at  the  south  corner  and  are 
open  to  the  public  during  working  hours.  (Passes  must  be 
procured  at  the  office.)  The  venerable  buildings  are  of  simple 
and  agreeable  proportions,  standing  on  a  slight  elevation. 
The  main  building  is  a  reproduction  of  the  East  India  house 
in  London  and  was  built  in  1846.  Its  low  four-square  tower 
commands  a  view  of  the  Connecticut  valley  that  elicited  such 
enthusiastic  praise  from  Thackeray.  Toward  the  north  is  the 
Mt.  Holyoke  range,  with  Mt.  Tom  in  the  foreground  and  the 
Connecticut  winding  between  fertile  meadows;  to  the  south  is 
the  lovely  Pecousic  valley  and  the  old  village  of  Longmeadow; 
eastward  are  the  hills  of  Wilbraham;  and  to  the  west  the  Berk- 
shire Hills;  the  city  itself  is  almost  hidden  in  masses  of  foliage. 


126  SPRINGFIELD 

To  the  southeast  are  the  barracks,  guard  house,  middle  and 
eastern  arsenal.  To  the  north  is  the  long  building  occupied  by 
the  ordnance  storekeeper,  general  offices,  and  milling  depart- 
ment; and  fronting  Federal  St.  are  the  machine,  polishing, 
carpenter,  and  paint  shops.  The  main  arsenal  has  a  storage 
capacity  of  50x3,000  Springfield  rifles;  with  the  other  buildings 
the  capacity  is  1,000,000.  The  U.S.  Watershops,  where  the 
forging  and  heavier  work  on  the  Springfield  rifles  is  done,  are 
about  a  mile  southeast  of  the  Armory.  The  plant  normally 
employs  1300  workmen  and  has  a  capacity  of  140,000  Spring- 
field rifles  a  year. 

When  on  their  wedding  journey  from  Pittsfield,  Longfellow  and  his 
second  wife  visited  the  Arsenal.     The  polished  rifle  barrels  arranged  in 
tiers  against   the   walls  prompted    Mrs.  Longfellow  to   compare  them 
to  organ  pipes.     It  was  this  that  later  inspired  the  lines: 
"This  is  the  arsenal.     From  floor  to  ceiling, 

Like  a  huge  organ,  rise  the  burnished  arms; 
But  from  their  silent  pipes  no  anthem  pealing 

Startles  the  villages  with  strange  alarms. 
Ah!  what  a  sound  will  rise,  how  wild  and  dreary, 

When  the  death-angel  touches  those  swift  keys; 
What  loud  lament  and  dismal  Miserere 

Will  mingle  with  their  awful  symphonies!" 

Maple  Street,  shaded  by  elms  and  maples,  leads  to  Crescent 
Hill,  which  commands  another  inspiring  view  of  the  city  and 
the  valley.  Along  this  street  are  many  handsome  modern  and 
Colonial  residences  with  ample  and  tasteful  grounds.  The 
palatial  million-dollar  stone  residence  of  Daniel  B.  Wesson  was 
recently  sold  to  the  Colony  Club  for  $60,000.  The  Cynthia 
Wesson  Memorial  Hospital,  on  High  St.,  with  its  projecting  cor- 
nice, suggests  a  Florentine  palazzo.  Off  Maple  St.  is  also  the 
Springfield  Cemetery,  wherein  is  the  grave  of  Mary  Pynchon 
Holyoke,  a  daughter  of  William  Pynchon,  marked  with  a 
stone  bearing  this  quaint  inscription: 

"HERE  LYETH  THE  BODY  OF  MARI 
THE  WIFE  OF  ELIZUR  HOLYOKE 
WHO  DIED  OCTOBER  26  1657. 

"  Shee  yt  lyes  here  was  while  shee  stood 
A  very  glory  of  womanhood 
Even  here  was  sowne  most  precious  dust 
Which  surely  shall  rise  with  the  just." 

At  the  southern  entrance  to  the  city  is  Forest  Park,  a  beauti- 
fully wooded  and  picturesquely  watered  land  of  over  500 
acres.  The  park  was  begun  in  1884  by  a  gift  of  sixty-five 
acres  of  land  from  0.  H.  Greenleaf.  To  this  Everett  Barney, 
the  skate  manufacturer,  added  104  acres  from  his  adjoining 
estate,  and  there  have  been  several  subsequent  additions.  It 
contains  some  beautiful  gardens,  an  elaborate  collection  of 
lotus  and  other  Oriental  plants,  and  a  zoological  collection. 


R.   I   §  3.     HARTFORD   TO   SPRINGFIELD  127 

Through  the  Barney  estate  flows  Pecousic  Brook  forming 
fantastic  water  gardens.  The  Barney  &  Berry  Skate  factory 
is  near  at  hand  and  conspicuous  from  the  railroad. 

The  Annual  Music  Festival,  now  held  in  the  new  Municipal 
Auditorium,  dates  from  1889  and  is  one  of  the  principal  musical 
events  of  western  New  England.  It  brings  to  Springfield  the 
world's  famous  operatic  and  concert  stars. 

The  National  Dairy  Show  will  be  held  from  October  1 2th  to 
2ist  on  the  grounds  of  the  Eastern  States  Agricultural  and 
Industrial  Exposition,  West  Springfield  (R.  10). 

Industrial  conditions  of  Springfield  are  more  settled  than 
in  most  industrial  centers.  The  city  is  practically  free  from 
slums,  and  even  the  factory  operatives  have  homes  of  their  own 
with  space  for  gardens  and  outdoor  life.  The  modern  principle 
of  wage  regulation  and  a  short  working  day  was  laid  down  by 
the  first  settlers  of  Springfield,  who  provided  that,  "All  teames 
consisting  of  4  cattill  with  one  man,  shall  not  take  above  6 
shillings  a  day  wages:  From  May  till  October  to  work  eight 
hours,  and  the  other  part  of  the  year  six  hours  for  theyre  day's 
worke." 

The  city's  best  known  manufactured  products  include  re- 
volvers and  automatic  pistols,  made  by  Smith  &  Wesson,  es- 
tablished in  1857;  the  Barney  &  Berry  Skates,  made  here  since 
1864,  the  Hendee  Manufacturing  Company's  Indian  Motor- 
cycle, Knox  Tractors,  the  Bosch  Magneto,  Milton  Bradley's 
kindergarten  supplies,  the  Tabor-Prang  Art  Company's  publica- 
tions, G.  &  C.  Merriam's  Webster's  Dictionaries,  and  the  Orange 
Judd  Company's  agricultural  publications.  Among  other  in- 
dustrial firms  of  importance  are  the  Wason  Mfg.  Co.  (steel 
R.R.  and  trolley  cars),  the  Package  Machinery  Company, 
Cheney  Bigelow  Wire  Works,  and  the  U.S.  Envelope  Com- 
pany. Springfield,  too,  is  an  insurance  center  second  only  to 
Hartford  in  New  England.  The  two  most  important  firms 
are  the  Massachusetts  Mutual  Life  Insurance  Company  and 
the  Springfield  Fire  and  Marine  Insurance  Company. 

When  John  Oldham  and  his  companions  in  1633  pushed  westward 
over  the  Indian  trail  they  reached  "the  Long  River,"  where  Spring- 
field now  is.  There  they  found  a  village  of  the  Agawam  Indians, 
whose  Sachem  "used  them  kindly"  and  gave  them  some  beaver. 
The  following  year  William  Pynchon  and  his  son  probably  visited 
this  region.  Pynchon,  a  man  of  gentle  birth,  had  been  a  landed 
proprietor  at  Springfield,  England,  and  was  the  founder  in  1630 
of  Roxbury,  Mass.  He  was  too  broad  and  open-minded  to  get  on 
comfortably  with  the  Bay  Colony  leaders,  and  after  a  brief  period 
of  uneasiness  determined  to  move  west.  In  the  summer  of  1635  he 
sent  two  men  to  the  Connecticut  valley  to  prepare  a  house  at  the 
place  called  Agawam.  This  first  house  was  built  on  the  site  of  West 
Springfield,  but  when  Pynchon  and  his  company  arrived  in  the  spring 
of  1636  he  was  advised  by  the  friendly  Indians  that  at  high  water  that 


128  SPRINGFIELD 


region  was  overflowed  and  consequently  their  settlement  was  estab- 
lished on  the  east  bank.  This  was  made  a  month  before  the  'Hooker- 
ites,'  who  reached  Connecticut  by  another  route,  the  old  Connecticut 
Path,  settled  at  Hartford. 

William  Pynchon  was  an  unusual  man  for  his  time.  He  wrote  a 
book,  "The  Meritorious  Price  of  Our  Redemption,"  which  was  pub- 
lished in  England.  The  General  Court  at  Boston,  suspecting  hetero- 
dox opinions,  tried  the  Book  and  it  was  condemned  and  executed  by 
public  burning  in  the  Boston  Market  Place  (1650), — a  holy  orgy  that 
must  have  delighted  those  narrow-minded  bigots  who  thought  they 
were  thus  serving  God.  This  intolerance  of  the  lovers  of  'religious 
liberty'  finally  drove  Pynchon  back  to  England  in  1652. 

His  son,  John  Pynchon,  however,  remained  the  leading  spirit  of 
the  settlement.  His  account  books,  still  preserved  in  the  city  library, 
record  that  from  1652  to  1657  he  bought  from  the  Indians  and  shipped 
to  London  9434  beaver  skins,  320  otter  skins,  and  other  skins  and  furs 
in  great  quantity.  The  fur  trade  with  the  Indians  afforded  huge 
profits,  even  to  hundreds  per  cent,  and  suggests  that  the  desire  for 
gain  was  as  potent  then  as  now. 

Springfield  has  the  distinction  of  having  discovered  the  first  re- 
corded case  of  witchcraft  in  New  England.  Hugh  Parsons  was  a 
somewhat  cantankerous  carpenter  whose  sharp  tongue  had  made  him 
enemies.  Goody  Parsons,  his  wife,  no  more  sweet-tempered  than  her 
husband,  made  enemies  on  her  own  account.  She  was  afflicted  with 
occasional  attacks  of  what  we  would  today  call  insanity,  which  con- 
vinced her  neighbors  of  her  social  intimacy  with  the  devil.  At  her 
trial  in  1651  she  and  her  husband  mutually  accused  each  other  of 
witchcraft,  but  both  were  acquitted  of  that  charge.  This  episode  has 
been  utilized  in  Holland's  story  "The  Bay  Path."  It  was  ten  years 
later  that  witchcraft  broke  out  at  Hartford  and  Wethersfield,  and 
forty  years  before  the  epidemic  reached  Salem. 

The  Agawam  Indians  lived  amicably  with  the  settlers,  and  even  at 
the  outbreak  of  King  Philip's  War  (1675)  protested  friendship.  Their 
fort  on  Long  Hill,  a  mile  south  of  the  settlement,  stood  on  a  plateau 
at  the  head  of  a  ravine  near  the  present  Forest  Park.  They  yielded 
to  Philip's  machinations,  and,  plotting  to  attack  the  settlement, 
secretly  admitted  300  hostiles  to  their  fort.  The  plot  was  revealed 
by  Toto,  a  domesticated  Indian  in  the  household  of  the  Walcott_ family 
at  Windsor.  A  messenger  was  immediately  dispatched  to  Springfield 
to  warn  the  inhabitants,  and  Lieutenant  Cooper  and  Thomas  Miller 
rode  out  to  the  fort  as  scouts.  As  they  approached,  both  were  fired 
upon, — Miller  was  killed,  and  Cooper,  though  mortally  wounded,  suc- 
ceeded in  keeping  his  seat  until  he  reached  one  of  the  fortified  houses, 
where  he  fell  dead.  The  Indians  immediately  fell  upon  the  settlement, 
which  then  consisted  of  about  forty  dwellings  mostly  with  thatched 
roofs.  Pynchon  and  his  train-band  were  then  away  in  Hadley,  and 
the  settlers  took  refuge  in  the  three  fortified  garrison  houses.  That  of 
Major  John  Pynchon,  built  in  1660,  was  of  brick  with  walls  two  feet 
thick,  and  stood  an  interesting  relic  of  Colonial  times  until  torn  down 
by  his  descendants  in  1831.  Most  of  the  houses  and  all  of  the  barns 
and  mills  were  burned.  So  great  was  the  terror  that  the  inhabitants 
were  inclined  to  abandon  the  settlement,  but  Major  Pynchon  and  the 
Bay  State  Governor  stood  strong  for  its  maintenance  as  an  outpost, 
and  the  male  inhabitants  were  enrolled  as  state  militia. 

The  danger  was  so  great  that  all  that  winter  no  one  at  Longmeadpw 
attempted  to  come  to  Springfield  to  church.  Early  _  the  following 
spring  a  party  of  sixteen  men  on  horseback  with  their  women  and 
children  riding  on  pillions  started  from  Longmeadow  to  attend  church 
at  Springfield  under  the  escort  of  Captain  Nixon  and  a  party  of  soldiers. 


R.   I   §  3.     HARTFORD   TO    SPRINGFIELD  129 

At  the  foot  of  Long  Hill  where  the  road  crosses  Pecousic  Brook  they 
were  attacked.  The  escort  fled  precipitately,  but  later,  when  it  was 
learned  how  few  were  the  Indians  that  caused  this  ambush,  the  mili- 
tary escort  came  in  for  sharp  censure.  The  Captain's  conduct  was 
characterized  as  "a  matter  of  great  shame,  humbling  to  us,"  and  in- 
spired the  couplet: 

"Seven  Indians,  and  one  without  a  Gun, 
Caused  Captain  Nixon  and  forty  men  to  run." 

When  the  Rev.  Robert  Breck  was  called  to  the  First  Congregational 
Church  in  1734  theological  controversy  had  another  inning  at  Spring- 
field. It  became  known  to  the  Orthodox  ministers  that  he  had  once 
had  the  temerity  to  say:  "What  will  become  of  the  heathen  who 
never  heard  of  the  Gospel  I  do  not  pretend  to  say;  but  I  cannot  but 
indulge  a  hope  that  God,  in  his  boundless  benevolence,  will  find  a 
way  whereby  those  heathen  who  act  up  to  the  light  they  have  may 
be  saved."  This  shocking  heresy  caused  an  uproar  of  protest  against 
,  the  installation  of  Breck.  One  of  the  most  bitter  of  his  opponents  was 
the  great  Jonathan  Edwards,  author  of  the  inviting  picture  of  a  hell 
paved  with  the  skulls  of  unbaptized  infants,  and  other  pleasing  studies 
in  Calvinism.  The  controversy  raged  for  two  years,  but  Breck's 
friends  stood  by  him  bravely,  with  the  result  that  he  was  eventually 
installed  as  pastor  of  the  church. 

The  hard  times  following  the  Revolution  created  much  discontent 
among  the  poor  farmers  and  bankrupt  merchants  of  the  Connecticut 
valley,  and  caused  one  uprising  which  threatened  for  a  time  to  have 
serious  consequences.  Led  by  Daniel  Shays,  a  farmer  of  the  town  of 
Pelham,  near  Amherst,  this  was  known  as  "Shays'  Rebellion."  He 
had  been  a  captain  in  the  Continental  Army,  and  conspicuous  for 
personal  bravery  at  Bunker  Hill  and  Stony  Point.  In  1786  the  Shays 
forces  made  a  demonstration  at  Springfield  in  front  of  the  Court  House, 
the  purpose  being  to  prevent  the  meeting  of  the  Court  of  Common 
Pleas.  But  there  was  no  fighting,  and  the  effort  failed.  On  Jan. 
25,  1786,  Shays  and  his  followers,  to  the  number  of  about  1900, 
advanced  on  the  Arsenal,  which  had  been  occupied  by  General  William 
Shepard  with  about  1000  men,  but  at  the  first  fire  of  the  regulars  the 
insurgents,  who  had  advanced  along  the  Boston  road  to  about  the 
present  line  of  Federal  St.,  broke  and  fled,  leaving  three  dead.  This 
was  the  end  of  the  insurrection  in  any  organized  form. 

John  Brown  of  Harper's  Ferry  fame  lived  at  31  Franklin  St.  from 
1846  to  1849.  Springfield  contemporaries  describe  him  as  a  mild-man- 
nered, smooth-faced  man,  with  heavy  black  hair  brushed  straight  back 
from  his  forehead.  He  was  already  very  bold  and  bitter  in  his  de- 
nunciation of  slavery  and  was  sure  to  speak  at  every  meeting  in  the 
city  at  which  that  subject  was  discussed.  He  organized  the  'Spring- 
field Gileadites'  to  resist  the  capture  of  fugitive  slaves,  and  did  much 
to  make  Springfield  an  important  station  on  the  famous  'Underground 
Railway'  from  Southern  Slavery  to  Canadian  Freedom. 

Many  writers  of  more  than  local  fame  have  lived  a  part  or  all  of 
their  lives  in  Springfield.  Dr.  Holland,  whose  connection  with  the 
"Republican"  has  already  been  mentioned,  first  published  in  that 
paper  the  "Timothy  Titcomb  Papers,"  "  Gold  Foil,"  his  "History  of 
Western  Massachusetts,"  and  a  "Life  of  Lincoln."  George  Bancroft 
wrote  the  second  volume  of  his  "History  of  the  United  States"  in  the 
law  offices  of  Judge  Bosworth  on  Elm  St.,  and  the  Rev.  Dr.  Washing- 
ton Gladden  published  several  of  his  books  and  edited  the  "Sunday 
Afternoon"  while  he  was  pastor  of  the  North  Congregational  Church 
(1874-82).  But  the  best  known  literary  achievement  associated  with 
Springfield  undoubtedly  is  Webster's  Dictionary,  first  published  in 


130  SPRINGFIELD— PALMER 

1828.  When  Webster  died,  in  1843,  George  and  Charles  Merriam 
bought  the  copyright  of  the  Dictionary,  which  is  still  published  here  by 
the  G.  &  C.  Merriam  Company. 

Route  13  enters  Springfield  from  the  Berkshires  by  way  of 
the  Westfield  valley,  and  Route  10  continues  up  the  Connecti- 
cut by  the  east  and  the  west  banks. 

R.  1  §  4.  Springfield  to  Worcester.  51.0  m. 

Via  PALMER  and  SPENCER.  STATE  ROAD,  with  red  markers. 

This  is  a  section  of  one  of  the  principal  east  and  west  trunk 
lines  through  New  England  from  the  Hudson  valley  via  Pitts- 
field  to  Boston.  Carrying  the  traffic  of  two  important  trunk 
lines  it  is  perhaps  traversed  by  more  vehicles  than  any  one 
other  route  in  the  heart  of  New  England.  The  splendid  State 
Road  all  the  way  is  unmistakable,  marked  by  red  bands  on 
the  telegraph  poles. 

A  few  miles  from  Springfield  the  route  enters  the  hills  of  the 
ancient  crystalline  highlands  and  follows  the  deep  narrow 
valley  of  the  Quaboag,  the  waterpower  of  which  is  utilized  in 
a  series  of  small  industrial  towns,  then  follows  through  a 
farming  country  with  shoe  towns  to  Worcester. 

Leave  Springfield  by  State  St.,  past  the  Library  and  the 
Arsenal,  and  at  the  fork  of  the  two  trolley  lines  follow  the 
red  bands  on  the  telegraph  poles.  The  barren  sand  plain 
covered  with  scrub  growth  on  either  side  of  the  highway  was 
originally  called  Springfield  Plain. 

Just  outside  of  Springfield,  Athol  Junction  on  the  B.  &  A.  R.R. 
marks  the  western  terminus  of  those  twin  streaks  of  rust,  formerly 
the  Hampden  Railroad,  which  though  only  fourteen  miles  long  cost 
more  than  $3,300,000,  the  most  expensive  road  per  mile  ever  built  in 
New  England.  It  has  stood  for  years  completely  equipped  but  never 
used, — one  more  monument  to  the  folly  of  Mellen  management.  The 
Hampden  Railroad  was  built  by  the  Woronoco  Construction  Company 
operating  in  connection  with  the  Hampden  Investment  Company, 
both  of  which  were  controlled  and  financed  by  those  who  formerly 
had  to  do  with  other  New  Haven  jobberies.  Large  loans  were  made 
on  Mellen's  verbal  promises  'rubber  stamped'  by  the  B.  &  M.  directors. 
Its  purpose  was  to  shorten  by  a  few  miles  the  direct  route  and  bring 
the  Central  Massachusetts  into  use,  and  at  the  same  time  pay  for 
obligations  attaching  to  an  unsuccessful  New  York  enterprise,  or,  as 
they  say,  to  kill  two  cows  with  one  locomotive. 

Beyond  St.  Michael's  Cemetery  a  road  leads  to  the  left  to 
Indian  Orchard,  an  industrial  center;  among  its  numerous 
plants  The  Chapman  Valve  Manufacturing  Company  is  of 
national  significance.  The  village  received  its  name  from  the 
fact  that  after  the  attack  in  1676  on  Springfield  600  Indians 
bivouacked  here  for  the  night.  The  highway  skirts  Five  Mile 
Pond  and  beyond  Ludlow,  the  site  of  extensive  twine  and  yarn 
mills,  reaches  the  Chicopee  river,  which  furnishes  valuable  water- 


R.    I   §  4-     SPRINGFIELD    TO   WORCESTER  131 

power.  Washington  wrote  in  his  Diary  of  this  part  of  the 
route:  "A  little  before  the  road  descends  to  Chicopee  river, 
it  is  hilly,  rocky,  and  steep,  and  continues  so  for  several  miles; 
the  country  being  stony  and  barren  with  a  mixture  of  pine  and 
oak  till  we  come  to  Palmer." 

10.0     NORTH    WILBRAHAM.      Alt   86  ft.     (In    Wilbraham    twp.) 

Hampden  Co.  Mfg.  paper  and  wood  pulp. 
In  stage  coach  days  this  was  a  favorite  stopping  place  after 
the  long  climb  up  from  the  Connecticut  valley.  Near  the 
North  Wilbraham  Station  is  the  old  Bliss  Tavern,  another  of 
Washington's  stopping  places.  On  the  floor  of  the  former  bar 
room,  which  was  patronized  freely  by  the  Revolutionary 
soldiers,  are  pointed  out  the  scars  of  the  musket  butts. 

Note.     About  two  miles  to  the  south  lies 

WILBRAHAM.  Pop  (twp)  2332  (1910),  2521  (1915).  Settled  1730. 
Indian  name  Minnechaug,  "berry-land." 

This  little  town,  originally  called  Springfield  Mountain,  is 
strung  along  at  the  foot  of  the  Wilbraham  Mountains,  which 
rise  sharply  behind  the  town  to  a  height  of  900  feet,  and  the 
broad  meadows  before  it  give  the  place  a  setting  of  remarkable 
beauty.  The  country  hereabout  is  one  of  the  best  peach  dis- 
tricts in  New  England.  The  State  Game  Farm  specializes  in 
pheasants,  but  also  raises  some  quail  and  wild  turkeys,  and 
makes  shipments  of  eggs  for  breeding.  In  1915  about  5000 
birds  were  put  forth.  Wilbraham  Academy,  now  a  boys' 
school,  had  its  beginnings  in  1817  as  one  of  the  first  Methodist 
coeducational  schools. 

Between  North  Wilbraham  and  Palmer  the  road  leaves  the 
river  and  runs  through  a  narrow  valley  in  the  hills.  There  are 
several  dangerous  railroad,  crossings  and  bridges.  For  several 
miles  on  either  side  of  Palmer  we  have  constantly  in  sight  a 
newly  constructed  railroad  road-bed,  deep  cuttings,  and  high 
embankments,  constructed  at  enormous  expense  but  without 
rails  or  other  equipment.  This  Southern  New  England  R.R. 
was  planned  to  reach  tidewater  at  Providence  or  New  London, 
but  was  finally  killed  by  the  machinations  of  railroad  directors 
who  controlled  New  England's  destinies. 

Just  before  entering  Palmer  a  great  elm  is  passed,  under 
which,  according  to  the  inscription,  Washington  addressed  the 
townspeople  in  1775. 

15.5  PALMER.  Alt  332  ft.  Pop  (twp)  8610  (1910),  9468  (1915). 
Hampden  Co.  Settled  1716.  Mfg.  carpets,  copper,  tin,  and 
sheet  iron  products,  cotton  goods,  and  wire. 

Palmer  though  an  industrial  town  has  a  mellow,  almost 
elderly  appearance.  Its  mills  and  factories  are  strung  along 
the  course  of  the  stream  wherever  waterpower  is  available. 


132  PALMER— BROOKFIELD 

The  hills  rise  abruptly  above  the  narrow  valley  to  a  height  of 
from  700  to  900  feet.  Bald  Peak  to  the  south  is  the  highest, 
but  Mt.  Dumpling  to  the  north  is  striking  in  its  abruptness. 
At  the  State  Fish  Hatchery  here  nine  kinds  of  game  fish  are 
reared,  among  them  trout,  salmon,  perch,  pike,  and  bass. 

The  enormous  pine,  known  as  'Bear  Tree,'  next  the  Catholic  parish 
house  is  17  ft  in  circumference  and  100  ft  high.  Tradition  accounts 
for  its  name  with  the  tale  that  Thomas  King,  the  son  of  the  earliest 
settler,  shot  a  bear  in  this  tree  on  his  way  to  church  and  was  brought 
to  task  for  violating  the  Puritan  Sabbath. 

Emigrants  from  Ireland  settled  here  at  'The  Elbows'  in  1727  when 
the  town  was  renamed  for  Chief  Justice  Palmer.  In  1748  the  town 
was  called  Kingston  to  perpetuate  the  name  of  the  first  settler,  and  at 
various  times  it  bore  the  names  of  Kingstown,  Kingsfield,  and  New 
Marlborough. 

Just  beyond  Palmer  a  side  valley  opens  to  the  south,  through 
which  runs  the  railroad  to  New  London.  On  the  slope  of 
Chicopee  Mountain  is  the  State  Farm  and  Alms  House,  a  col- 
lection of  'institution-like'  buildings  with  a  factory  chimney. 

The  highway  follows  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Quaboag 
river  and  affords  picturesque  views  of  the  river  with  its  dams 
and  small  factories.  Of  this  road,  Washington  says  in  his 
Diary,  "From  Palmer  to  Brookfield,  to  one  Hitchcock's  is  17 
miles;  part  of  which  is  pretty  good,  and  part  (crossing  the 
hills)  very  bad;  but  when  over,  the  ground  begins  to  get 
tolerably  good  and  the  country  better  cultivated."  This 
portion  of  the  valley  is  especially  narrow  and  deep.  Cook's 
Mountain  (1000  ft)  is  an  abrupt  hill  on  the  right.  Just  beyond 
West  Warren  (24.5)  is  isolated  Mark's  Mountain  (noo  ft). 

26.7  WARREN.  Alt  596  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4188  (1910),  4268  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Originally  called  Western.  Inc.  1740.  Mfg. 
cotton  goods,  paper,  and  machine  shop  products. 

The  most  conspicuous  object  in  the  town  here  is  the  yellow 
brick  Town  Hall.  Two  miles  of  factories  extend  along  the 
valley,  the  principal  plant  being  that  of  the  International 
Steam  Pump  Works.  Perhaps  the  town's  most  interesting 
institution  is  that  surviving  from  earlier  times,  "The  Warren 
Thief-Catching  Society,"  formed  in  the  days  following  the 
Revolution  to  assist  in  the  maintenance  of  law  and  order.  It 
has  in  its  later  days  become  a  social  institution,  restricting  its 
membership  to  those  who  can  show  reasonably  law-abiding 
tendencies  for  several  generations. 

The  Quaboags  were  the  aboriginal  tribe,  and  when  they  were  as- 
sailed by  other  stronger  tribes  they  appealed  to  Massasoit  for  help  and 
he  came  to  live  with  them  as  sachem  until  his  death  in  1661.  During 
his  regime  the  locality  was  known  as  Squapauke,  or  Squabaug,  mean- 
ing "red  water  place,"  in  reference  to  the  peculiar  color  of  the  ponds 
which  are  so  frequent  in  this  vicinity.  The  land  was  first  known  to  the 
white  men  in  1647,  when  the  Indians  made  a  request  to  the  colonists 


R.   I   §  4-     SPRINGFIELD   TO   WORCESTER  133 

for  help  against  the  attacks  of  the  bloodthirsty  members  of  other 
tribes,  probably  the  Narragansetts  and  Monhegans.  Nathan  Reed, 
a  native  of  the  town,  was  the  first  man  to  apply  for  a  patent  under 
the  Constitution  for  the  first  machine  for  making  nails.  He  also  was 
among  the  first  to  apply  steam  to  locomotives. 

Crossing  R.R.  the  route  proceeds  along  the  fairly  level  road 
with  hills  rising  to  1000  feet  on  the  right  and  the  Quaboag  river 
about  two  miles  to  the  left. 

30.0  WEST  BROOKFIELD.  Alt  604  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1327  (1910), 
1288  (1915).  Worcester  Co.  Settled  1665.  Mfg.  corsets. 

Here  George  and  Charles  Merriam  carried  on  their  print- 
ing and  publishing  business  in  a  brick  building  opposite  the 
Library,  erected  by  their  father  a  century  ago,  and  here  they 
issued  several  hundred  thousand  volumes  before  moving  their 
plant  to  Springfield.  In  the  Library,  presented  to  the  town  by 
the  Merriams,  is  an  interesting  historical  collection.  A  short 
distance  beyond  is  the  Town  Hall,  and  at  the  further  end  of 
Quaboag  Park  stands  Hitchcock's  Tavern  (Ye  Old  Tavern), 
which  opened  in  1765  and  has  never  since  closed  its  doors. 
The  oil  paintings  of  the  first  proprietors  may  be  seen  at  the 
rooms  of  the  West  Brookfield  Historical  Society  at  the  Library. 
Here  Washington  and  Lafayette  were  guests.  Just  beyond  is 
the  house  in  which  Professor  Phelps,  the  father  of  Elizabeth 
Stuart  Phelps  Ward,  used  to  live.  Lucy  Stone  Blackwell, 
one  of  the  earliest  woman  suffragists,  was  born  on  Coy's  Hill. 

Foster  Hill,  east  of  the  village,  was  the  site  of  the  first  settle- 
ment. The  tavern  of  Sergeant  John  Ayres  which  stood  on 
the  top  of  the  hill  was  once  the  object  of  Indian  attack  which 
lasted  for  several  days.  The  present  road  winds  around  the 
hill,  but  the  Old  Post  Road  went  over  the  top  past  Indian 
Rock  Farm  where  sites  of  the  first  houses  are  marked  by 
tablets.  There  is  also  a  boulder  marked  "Whitefield  Rock, 
1740,"  in  memory  of  George  Whitefield,  the  evangelist,  who 
addressed  the  townspeople  here  in  1741.  The  old  D wight 
Tavern  stood  a  little  further  down  the  road. 

The  road  from  here  follows  the  red  markers  through  a  broad 
open  valley  whose  rich  farm  lands  early  attracted  settlers. 
Before  entering  Brookfield  on  the  right  stands  the  Brookfield 
Inn,  a  relic  of  Colonial  days. 

33.0    BROOKFIELD.    Alt  606ft.    Pop  (twp)  2204  (1910),  2059  (1915). 

Worcester  Co.    Settled  1665.     Indian  name  Quaboag.     Mfg. 

shoes,  paper  goods,  and  woolen  and  cotton  goods. 

The  village  of  Brookfield  lies  in  the  midst  of  broad  meadows 

on  a  slight  elevation  overlooking  them  and  the  surrounding 

ponds.     The  Common,  presented  to  the  town  by  Seth  and 

Solomon  Bannister   in    1773,  was    the  rallying   place  of   the 

patriots.     The  Town  Hall  and  Memorial  Library  have  since 


134  BROOKFIELD— LEICESTER 

been  given  to  the  town  by  other  members  of  the  Bannister 
family.  Brookfield  was  at  one  time  the  home  of  Rufus  Put- 
nam (see  Rutland,  R.  19),  whom  Washington  declared  to  be 
the  best  engineer  in  the  whole  of  his  army. 

In  1660  the  General  Court  granted  to  some  Ipswich  petitioners  "a 
place  near  Quaboag  ponds  provided  they  have  twenty  familyes  there 
resident  within  3  yeares  &  they  have  an  able  minister  settled  there 
within  the  same  term."  The  Indians  made  compliance  with  these 
terms  impossible  and  it  was  not  until  1665  that  any  attempt  at  settle- 
ment was  made. 

From  1665  to  1675  whites  and  reds  led  a  peaceful  existence,  and  many 
of  the  latter  were  followers  of  John  Eliot,  but  Philip  and  the  restless 
Nipmucks  in  1675  induced  most  of  them  to  join  an  attack  upon  the 
little  settlement.  Four  or  five  settlers  were  killed  at  Mendon  in  July, 
and  the  powers  at  Boston  sent  Captain  Hutchinson,  son  of  Anne,  and 
a  company  of  men  to  confer  with  the  Indians  and  bring  about  an 
amicable  settlement,  but  they  were  ambushed,  several  were  killed  in- 
cluding Captain  Hutchinson,  and  the  settlement  attacked.  Among 
the  attacking  party  were  many  of  John  Eliot's  Christian  Indians,  and 
of  them  Captain  Wheeler  wrote:  "The  next  day  being  August  3rd 
they  continued  shooting  and  shouting  and  proceeded  in  their  former 
wickedness,  blaspheming  the  name  of  the  Lord  and  reproaching  us,  his 
afflicted  servants,  scoffing  at  our  prayers  as  they  were  sending  in  shot 
upon  all  quarters  of  the  house  and  many  of  them  went  to  the  town's 
meeting  house,  who  mocked,  saying,  'come and  pray  and  sing  psalms.'" 
The  relieving  forces  finally  came  to  the  rescue  of  the  beleaguered  settlers, 
but  not  until  many  of  the  houses  as  well  as  their  live  stock  had  been 
destroyed,  and  it  was  necessary  to  temporarily  abandon  the  town. 

Leaving  Brookfield  the  road  crosses  Dunn  Brook,  which 
flows  into  Quaboag  Pond.  Just  before  entering  East  Brook- 
field  (621  ft),  Furnace  Pond  is  passed  on  the  left,  and  Teneriffe 
Hill  (880  ft)  rises  to  the  right. 

Spencer  is  seen  from  a  long  distance  as  we  approach  it. 
Like  all  these  New  England  hill  manufacturing  towns  its  most 
conspicuous  features  are  the  huge  Catholic  Churches,  two  in 
number,  one  for  the  French,  the  other  for  the  Irish.  Just 
outside  the  town  in  the  Bemis  Memorial  Park  are  two  monu- 
ments, one  marking  the  location  of  the  first  frame  house  in 
.Spencer,  built  by  Samuel  Bemis  in  1721,  the  other  in  honor  of 
Edmund  Bemis,  who  served  at  Louisburg. 

40.0  SPENCER.  Alt  900  ft.  Pop  (twp)  6740  (1910),  5994  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Settled  1713.  Mfg.  shoes,  boxes,  and  wire. 
Spencer,  though  high  on  the  hills  and  far  from  the  main  rail- 
way, is  a  thriving  shoe  town  with  a  large  foreign  population.  On 
Main  St.  opposite  the  Hotel  Massasoit  a  granite  marker  indi- 
cates the  site  of  the  old  Jenks  Tavern  and  the  fact  that  in 
1776  Washington  stopped  there  overnight.  Opposite  the  Town 
Hall  is  the  handsome  Howe  memorial  with  bronze  medallions 
of  the  three  inventors  and  a  bronze  relief  of  the  house  in  which 
they  were  born  in  the  south  of  the  town.  Tyler  Howe  (b.  1800) 


R.   I   §  4-     SPRINGFIELD    TO    WORCESTER  135 

invented  the  spring  bed,  William  Howe  (b.  1803),  his  brother, 
was  the  inventor  of  the  truss  frame  used  in  bridges  and  roofs, 
and  Elias'Howe  (b.  1819),  a  nephew  of  the  former,  was  the 
inventor  of  the  sewing  machine.  Elias  spent  many  years  en- 
deavoring to  popularize  and  protect  his  invention.  His  visits 
to  England,  his  financial  support  of  the  Federal  Government 
in  the  Civil  War,  and  his  eventual  success  and  acquirement  of 
a  large  fortune  make  an  interesting  romance  in  the  history  of 
industry.  The  Pope  Mansion,  built  in  1745,  was  the  lodging 
place  of  the  colonel  of  a  Hessian  regiment  of  Burgoyne's  army 
when  on  the  way  to  Boston  as  a  prisoner  of  war. 

The  pioneer  of  the  boot  industry  in  Spencer  was  Josiah 
Green,  who  before  1812  used  to  peddle  the  shoes  he  had  made, 
in  Boston.  The  War  of  1812  stimulated  his  business  and  it 
grew  to  large  proportions.  The  Proutys  have,  however,  for 
three  generations  dominated  the  shoe  industry  in  this  town, 
and  still  operate  here  one  of  the  largest  shoe  factories  in  the 
country,  employing  1500  hands.  .  A  mile  from  Spencer  is  Wire 
Village,  where  for  nearly  a  century  there  have  been  wire  mills. 

In  the  old  coaching  days  Spencer  was  a  famous  stopping  place.  It 
had  three  taverns  which  did  a_  thriving  business.  The  oldest  was  built 
in  1754  by  John  Flagg,  and  in  1775  it  came  into  the  hands  of  Isaac 
Jenks,  who  made  it  famous.  It  was  described  by  a  traveler  in  1788: 
"The  chambers  were  neat,  the  beds  good,  the  sheets  clean,  the  supper 
passable;  cider,  tea,  punch,  and  all  for  fourteen  pence  per  head." 

East  of  Spencer,  Moose  Hill  (1050  ft),  a  gently  swelling 
drumlin  bare  of  trees,  is  crowned  by  the  Sibley  residence.  The 
rounded  drumlin  hills  in  this  region  usually  have  their  summits 
cleared  while  their  lower  slopes  are  wooded.  This  bears  evi- 
dence to  the  fact,  early  discovered  by  New  England  settlers, 
that  these  drumlins  afforded  good  plow  lands.  The  red- 
marked  State  Road  between  Spencer  and  Leicester  crosses  the 
highest  land  east  of  the  Connecticut  valley,  but  the  only  steep 
hill  is  just  before  entering  Leicester. 

45.0    LEICESTER.    Alt  1080  ft.    Pop  (twp)  3237  (1910),  3322  (1915). 

Worcester  Co.    Settled  1713.    Indian  name  Towtaid.    Mfg. 

woolens  and  worsteds. 

This  pleasant  old  town  is  now  almost  wholly  residential,  al- 
though there  are  some  factories  in  villages  connected  with  the 
town.  This,  the  central  village,  is  located  in  a  sightly  situation 
on  the  top  of  a  high  hill.  The  Mansion  House  on  Mt.  Pleasant 
was  built  in  1772  by  Joseph  Henshaw  and  in  1795  became  the 
property  of  James  Swan,  who  set  up  an  estate  of  such  mag- 
nificence as  to  dazzle  all  beholders.  However,  his  wealth  failed 
and  he  withdrew  to  France,  where  he  was  imprisoned  for  debt 
hi  Paris  for  thirty-two  years  and  one  day,  all  of  which  he 
spent  in  the  same  room  in  the  Debtors'  Prison. 


136  LEICESTER— WORCESTER 


Leicester  was  purchased  from  Sachem  Orakaso  for  fifteen  pounds 
by  "Nine  Gentlemen  from  Roxbury"  in  1686.  Seven  years  later, 
when  the  settlement  was  finally  established,  there  was  a  solitary  hermit 
by  the  name  of  Arthur  Casey  found  in  a  cave  which  he  had  made  in 
the  side  of  the  hill  that  to  this  day  bears  his  name.  As  late  as  1740, 
pits  were  dug  for  the  capture  of  wolves.  In  1777  a  colony  of  seventy 
Jews  from  Newport,  disliking  the  warlike  atmosphere  of  their  Rhode 
Island  home,  settled  here  for  a  time,  but  returned  to  Newport  at  the 
close  of  the  war. 

The  first  representative  to  the  General  Court  was  Judge  John 
Menzies,  who  served  three  terms  without  pay,  and  when  his  successor 
was  chosen  the  town  voted  that  he  "should  be  paid  the  same  as  Judge 
Menzies,  and  no  other." 

The  Old  Post  Road,  sometimes  called  the  Great  Post  Road,  or  the 
County  Road,  which  ran  between  Boston  and  Albany,  went  through 
the  town,  although  its  course  has  been  greatly  changed  in  the  last  few 
years.  Over  this  road  the  volunteers  from  the  western  part  of  the 
State  marched  through  the  night  to  Lexington,  and  the  people  of  the 
town  kept  their  houses  lighted  and  their  doors  open  to  cheer  them  on 
their  way.  One  of  the  patriots,  Thomas  Earle,  had  a  home-made  gun 
which  General  Washington  admired  so  that  Earle  made  a  duplicate  of 
it  and  walked  to  New  York  to  present  it  to  his  commander-in-chief. 

Leicester  Academy,  established  in  1784,  was  one  of  the  earliest  and 
most  notable  of  the  New  England  academies,  for  here  were  introduced 
many  educational  innovations. 

From  Leicester  the  road  descends  gradually  to  Worcester,  in 
the  southern  part  of  which  was  located  Jones's  Tavern,  a 
famous  oldtime  coaching  place.  Main  Street  in  Worcester  fol- 
lows the  course  of  the  Old  Post  Road  as  far  as  Lincoln  Square. 

51.0     WORCESTER.    Alt  482  ft   (City  Hall).    Pop  145,986  (1910), 
160,117    (1915);    about   one   third   foreign-born.      Seat  of 
Worcester  Co.      Settled  1713.      Indian  name  Quinsigamond , 
"pickerel  fishing  place."    Mfg.  wire,  machine  tools,  grinding 
wheels,  drop  forges,  carpets,  leather,  corsets,  shoes,  looms, 
envelopes,  skates,  vacuum  cleaners,  electric  cars,  elevators. 
Value  of  Product  (1913),  $89,707,000;   Payroll,  $19,887,000. 
Worcester,  the  'Heart  of  the  Commonwealth,'  as  it  loves  to 
call  itself,   is  second  only  to  Boston  among  Massachusetts 
cities  and  third  among  New  England  cities.     Both  as  an  in- 
dustrial and  educational  center  it  manifests  vigorous  enter- 
prise and  great  diversity,   with  products  ranging  from  en- 
velopes to  organs,  and  providing  instruction  in  such  diverse 
subjects  as  child  psychology  and  mechanical  engineering.     In 
the  past  two  decades  it  has  doubled  in  wealth  and  population 
and  tripled  the  value  of  its  products.     This  development  has 
been  greatly  stimulated  by  the  activity  of  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  which  publishes  the  "Worcester  Magazine"   dis- 
tributing 30,000  copies  annually,  sending  one  to  every  U.S. 
consul   as  well  as  to  purchasing  agents  all   over  the  world. 
The  city  has  spread  from  its  original  level  site  upon  the  sur- 
rounding higher  land,  and  now  boasts  that  like  Rome  it  is 


R.   I   §  4-     SPRINGFIELD    TO    WORCESTER  137 

built  on  its  Seven  Hills.  The  numerous  parks  aggregate  noo 
acres  in  area.  As  the  first  city  in  the  country  to  purchase  and 
set  aside  land  for  park  purposes  Worcester  deserves  the  com- 
pliments of  the  nation.  The  Blackstone  river  provides  some 
power  for  manufacturing  purposes. 

The  largest  industry  is  that  of  the  American  Steel  &  Wire  Com- 
pany. Its  plant  has  three  divisions :  the  North  Works,  on  Grove 
St.;  the  Central  Works,  on  Kansas  St.;  and  the  South  Works, 
on  Millbury  St.  The  industry  dates  from  1834,  when  Ichabod 
Washburn  and  Benjamin  Goddard  first  started  the  manufac- 
ture of  wire  with  half  a  dozen  men.  It  was  the  hoop  skirt  that 
made  his  fortune.  During  the  height  of  the  fashion  he  made 
thirty  tons  of  hoop  skirt  wire  a  week.  About  6000  hands  are 
employed  and  the  maximum  output  for  a  single  year  approxi- 
mates 200,000  tons  with  a  value  of  over  $12,000,000.  The 
Crompton  &  Knowles  Loom  Works  has  the  largest  plant  of 
its  kind,  and  its  success  is  based  on  the  inventive  skill  of  its 
founders.  The  Norton  Company  is  the  largest  manufacturer 
of  abrasives  and  grinding  wheels  in  the  world.  The  Royal 
Worcester  Corset  Company  is  another  important  industry. 
Seventy-five  per  cent  of  the  drop-forged  automobile  crank 
shafts  and  eighty  per  cent  of  all  the  bicycle  chains  made  in 
America  are  Worcester  productions.  The  first  envelopes  made 
in  America  were  folded  here,  and  the  industry  continues. 

The  Old  Common,  in  the  center  of  the  city,  was  the  training 
ground  of  the  Minute  Men.  In  the  center  is  a  marble  memorial 
to  Colonel  Timothy  Bigelow,  a  Revolutionary  officer,  and  a 
Soldiers'  Monument.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  Common  is  the 
City  Hall,  a  dignified  granite  building  in  front  of  which  is 
Daniel  Chester  French's  statue  of  Worcester's  famous  adopted 
son,  the  late  Senator  George  Frisbie  Hoar.  It  was  near  the 
site  of  this  statue  that  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was 
first  read  to  the  people  in  the  State  of  Massachusetts. 

At  the  north  end  of  Main  St.  is  the  County  Court  House, 
standing  somewhat  back  upon  a  granite  terrace  on  which  is  a 
statue  of  General  D evens,  a  Worcester  lawyer  who  won  his 
military  laurels  in  the  Civil  War  and  later  became  Attorney- 
general  of  the  United  States.  Close  by  is  a  tablet  marking 
the  site  of  the  school  where  John  Adams  taught.  Opposite 
is  the  Exchange  Hotel  where  Washington  put  up. 

On  Elm  St.  near  Main  St.,  a  tablet  on  the  wall  of  Poli's 
Theatre  marks  the  site  of  the  Stearns  Tavern,  famous  in  pre- 
Revolutionary  times.  Further  up  this  street  are  many  fine 
old  houses,  among  them  the  Lincoln,  Bullock,  and  Thayer 
mansions,  and  the  Burnside  and  Foster  houses. 

Lincoln  Square,  which  perpetuates  the  name  of  the  Lincoln 


138  WORCESTER 

family,  among  Worcester's  most  prominent  citizens,  was  long 
the  center  of  trade  and  of  civic  and  religious  life.  On  the 
north  side  of  the  square  is  the  old  Salisbury  mansion,  a  fine 
type  of  Colonial  house  whose  liberal  breadth  gives  it  a  hos- 
pitable appearance,  now  the  property  of  the  Art  Museum. 

On  Salisbury  St.  to  the  left  above  Lincoln  Square  is  a  group 
of  fine  buildings  including  the  Armory,  the  Worcester  Society 
of  Antiquity,  a  library  chiefly  of  town  histories  and  genealogies, 
and  the  Women's  Club.  The  Art  Museum,  close  by,  is  third 
in  the  United  States  in  endowment.  Its  collections  contain 
some  especially  choice  examples  of  European  and  American 
art,  among  which  are  works  by  Copley,  Herrera,  Inness,  Mo- 
reelse,  Raeburn,  and  Gilbert  Stuart,  as  well  as  rare  engravings, 

and  the  Bancroft  Japanese 
collection.  The  summer  loan 
exhibitions  of  the  work  of 
American  artists  are  notable. 
The  new  building  of  the 
American  Antiquarian  Soci- 
ety, at  the  corner  of  Salisbury 
St.  and  Park  Ave.,  founded 
in  1812,  was  erected  from 
funds  left  by  the  late  Stephen 
Salisbury.  It  contains  a 
priceless  collection  of  Ameri- 
SALISBURY  HOUSE,  WORCESTER  cana  and  is  especially  rich 

in  files  of   old   newspapers. 

On  this  same  street,  opposite  Massachusetts  Ave.,  is  a  tablet 
marking  the  site  of  the  house  of  George  Bancroft,  the  Ameri- 
can historian.  On  the  summit  of  the  hill,  in  Bancroft  Park, 
which  includes  the  old  Bancroft  farm,  is  Bancroft  Tower,  from 
which  there  is  an  extensive  view  including  Mt.  Wachusett  and 
Mt.  Monadnock  to  the  north. 

Worcester  has  seven  important  educational  institutions. 
Clark  University,  a  mile  and  a  half  south  of  the  center  of  the 
city  on  Main  St.,  was  founded  in  1887  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
search. Its  President  is  Dr.  G.  Stanley  Hall,  the  psychologist 
and  educational  authority,  under  whose  regime  the  University 
has  attained  a  high  reputation  for  its  investigation  of  child 
psychology.  Clark  College  for  undergraduates  was  opened 
in  1902.  The  College  of  the  Holy  Cross,  a  Jesuit  institution, 
with  a  preparatory  school,  founded  in  1843,  is  on  Mt.  St. 
James,  or  Packachoag  Hill.  Worcester  Polytechnic  Institute, 
one  of  the  leading  technical  schools  of  the  country,  on  Boynton 
St.  opposite  Institute  Park,  was  founded  in  1865  by  a  gift  of 
$100,000  from  John  Boynton,  and  was  opened  in  1868.  Its 


R.   I   §  4-     SPRINGFIELD    TO    WORCESTER  139 

President  is  Dr.  Ira  N.  Hollis,  who  was  formerly  in  the  Navy  and 
later  professor  of  engineering  at  Harvard  College.  It  special- 
izes in  the  scientific  management  of  manufacturing  industries: 
the  course  requires  both  theory  and  practice,  books  and  shop- 
work;  time  cards,  payrolls,  and  lost  motion  in  employees  as 
well  as  in  machines  are  among  its  subjects  of  study  and  re- 
search. The  Worcester  Boys'  Trade  School  in  Armory  Square, 
supported  by  State  and  city,  is  the  largest  and  best  school  of  its 
kind  in  the  country  on  a  free  basis.  Worcester  Academy,  on 
Providence  St.,  is  a  large  boys'  preparatory  school.  The 
State  Normal  School  and  its  ally  the  Kindergarten  Training 
School  are  on  Normal  St.  and  Eastern  Ave. 

An  annual  institution  in  Worcester  is  the  Music  Festival, 
held  every  year  since  1858,  for  a  larger  number  of  years  than 
any  other  annual  festival  in  the  country. 

Elm  Park,  at  the  junction  of  Highland  and  Pleasant  Sts.,  was 
the  first  tract  of  land  purchased  with  public  funds  for  park 
purposes  by  any  municipality  in  the  United  States.  Green 
Hill  Park,  off  Lincoln  St.,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  natural  pleasure 
grounds  in  the  State;  it  was  formerly  a  private  estate,  and  the 
mansion  house  is  a  social  center,  rented  for  parties  and  lectures 
at  a  nominal  charge. 

Worcester  and  the  country  within  a  radius  of  fifteen  miles  have 
given  to  the  world  Eli  Whitney,  inventor  of  the  cotton  gin;  Ichabod 
Washburn,  who  made  the  first  piano  wire  drawn  in  America;  Erastus 
Bigelow,  inventor  of  the  carpet  machine;  Thomas  Blanchard,  in- 
ventor of  the  machine  lathe  for  turning  irregular  forms;  George 
Crompton,  inventor  of  the  power  loom  for  weaving  fancy  cottons; 
Charles  Thurber,  who  invented  the  first  typewriter,  1843;  J.  C. 
Stoddard,  who  invented  the  first  steam  calliope;  Asa  Hapgood,  who 
invented  the  upper  berth  in  the  sleeping  car;  Osgood  Bradley,  who 
established  the  first  car  works  still  in  existence  in  America.  Among 
Worcester's  famous  residents  was  Elihu  Burritt,  the  learned  black- 
smith, who  knew  more  than  fifty  languages  ancient  and  modern,  but 
deserves  greater  fame  as  the  organizer  of  the  first  international  peace 
conference,  Brussels,  1848.  John  B.  Gough,  though  born  in  England, 
reached  his  greatest  depths  of  degradation  in  Worcester  and  likewise 
began  the  reformation  which  resulted  in  his  remarkable  career  as  a 
successful  temperance  lecturer.  As  a  scientific  and  literary  center  the 
city  today  is  the  home  of  Dr.  W.  E.  Storey,  the  mathematician;  Dr. 
A.  G.  Webster,  the  scientist;  Harry  Worcester  Smith,  the  financier 
and  horseman;  Eben  Francis  Thompson,  the  translator  of  Omar 
Khayyam;  William  B.  Scofield,  the  sculptor-poet;  and  Harry  H. 
Chamberlin,  the  poet.  Edward  Everett  Hale,  Thomas  Wentworth 
Higginson,  Eli  Thayer,  who  saved  Kansas  to  the  Union,  and  Clara 
Barton,  founder  of  the  Red  Cross,  have  also  lived  in  Worcester. 

The  first  grant  of  land  in  this  part  of  the  Blackstone  valley  was 
made  in  1657,  and  the  town,  called  Quinsigamond,  was  laid  out  in 
1688.  On  the  outbreak  of  King  Philip's  War  it  was  abandoned,  and 
though  the  settlers  made  several  attempts  to  return  it  was  not  until 
1713  that  settlement  became  permanent.  By  1722  Worcester  was  in- 
corporated as  a  town,  receiving  its  name  from  Worcester,  England, 
whence  some  of  its  first  inhabitants  came.  The  rugged  turnpike  was 


140  WORCESTER— SHREWSBURY 

opened  all  the  way  to  Boston  and  travel  was  fairly  frequent,  but  packs 
of  wolves  roamed  close  to  the  town  as  late  as  1734.  In  1755  a  small 
band  of  exiles  from  Acadie,  the  'land  of  Evangeline,'  was  located 
here.  After  the  Revolution,  in  the  feeble  strife  of  Shays'  Rebellion, 
traces  of  which  have  followed  us  hither  from  Springfield,  the  town  was 
taken  by  the  insurgents,  who  closed  the  courts  and  held  sway  for  a 
short  time.  Brissot  de  Warville,  the  French  traveler,  visiting  Worces- 
ter in  1788,  says:  "This  town  is  elegant  and  well  peopled.  The 
printer,  Isaiah  Thomas,  has  rendered  it  famous  throughout  the  Conti- 
nent of  America.  He  has  printed  a  large  part  of  the  works  which  ap- 
pear, and  it  is  acknowledged  that  his  editions  are  correct  and  well 
edited.  Thomas  is  the  Didot  of  the  United  States."  Dwight  a  few 
years  later  indorsed  this  opinion. 

Route  12  from  New  London  to  Peterboro  and  Concord, 
N.H.,  and  Route  19  from  Providence  to  Manchester,  Vt.,  and 
Fort  Ticonderoga  pass  through  Worcester,  and  Route  n,  from 
Stafford  Springs  and  Southbridge,  terminates  here. 


R.  1  §  5.  Worcester  to  Boston.  44.0  m. 

Via  MARLBORO.  STATE  ROAD  with  red  markers. 

The  route  from  Worcester  to  Boston  traverses  an  undulating 
region,  largely  given  over  to  agriculture  and  residential  es- 
tates, Marlboro  being  the  one  industrial  town  of  importance. 
Routes  19  and  24  combined  afford  a  pleasant  variant. 

The  State  Road  follows  closely  the  course  of  the  Old  Boston  Post 
Road  which  was  built  in  1808  by  John  Pease,  who  obtained  the  first 
State  charter  for  a  turnpike.  Before  that  time  the  Post  Road  was  a 
county  road  which  followed  the  original  course  of  the  Indian  trails 
regardless  of  bounds  or  compass.  The  new  turnpike  was  built  almost 
parallel  to  the  old  road  and  in  Shrewsbury  about  a  mile  from  it. 
Notwithstanding  the  increased  tolls  it  was  such  an  improvement  over 
the  old  that  it  soon  became  the  more  traveled,  and  numerous  taverns 
sprang  up  along  its  course. 

Leaving  Worcester  City  Hall  the  route  follows  Front  St. 
under  R.R.  On  the  right  is  the  new  Union  Station  erected 
in  1913  at  a  cost  of  $1,500,000.  Providence  St.  to  the 
right  leads  to  Worcester  Academy,  a  large  boys'  preparatory 
school  originally  founded  by  the  Baptists  in  1832.  At  Wash- 
ington Square  the  road  bears  left  with  trolley  past  the  tall 
square  granite  tower  of  the  old  railway  station,  erected  in 
1875.  Beyond  the  road  widens  appreciably  and  is  divided  by 
a  grass  plot  through  which  the  trolley  runs.  The  road  ascends 
a  long  grade.  On  Millstone  Hill  to  the  left  are  the  beautiful 
buildings  and  grounds  of  the  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane. 
This  was  the  first  State  Asylum  in  the  country,  its  establish- 
ment following  the  suggestion  of  Horace  Mann  in  1829  that 
the  State  should  care  for  the  insane,  who  previously  had  been 
confined  in  county  jails.  Lake  Quinsigamond  is  crossed  by  a 
causeway  at  about  its  middle.  The  lake  is  a  strip  of  water 
about  six  miles  long  with  an  area  of  over  1000  acres  and  a 


R.   I   §   5-     WORCESTER    TO    BOSTON  141 

maximum  depth  of  ninety  feet.  It  is  a  popular  canoeing  place, 
and  on  its  shores  are  many  summer  homes  and  camps.  On 
the  Shrewsbury  side  is  the  White  City,  a  local  amusement 
resort.  The  Harvard- Yale  boat  races  were  held  here  (1860- 
69)  in  the  days  when  'Prexy'  Eliot  was  a  member  of  the 
crew.  Now  the  only  racing  is  by  the  crews  of  local  clubs  and 
high  schools.  The  road  ascends  Shrewsbury  Hill  (600  ft).  To 
the  north  there  is  a  fine  view  of  Mt.  Wachusett  (2000  ft)  with 
a  house  on  the  summit.  On  the  left  is  the  large  estate  of  C.  H. 
Hutchins,  president  of  the  Crompton  &  Knowles  Loom  Works. 

5.5  SHREWSBURY.  Alt  700  ft.  Pop  2794.  Worcester  Co.  Settled 
1717.  Mfg.  leather. 

Though  primarily  a  residential  suburb  of  Worcester,  with 
large  farms  on  its  borders,  there  still  lingers  here  some  manu- 
facturing. On  the  Common  in  the  center  of  the  town  is  a 
little  brick  school  house  which  has  been  in  use  since  1830,  and 
at  the  opposite  end  a  boulder  in  front  of  the  Town  Hall  com- 
memorates the  march  of  128  men  from  the  town  in  response  to 
the  alarm  at  Lexington.  In  the  church  beside  the  old  school 
house,  John  B.  Gough,  the  noted  temperance  lecturer  of  the 
nineteenth  century,  delivered  his  first  lecture.  For  many 
years  all  events,  social  and  political,  were  held  in  the  vestry 
of  the  old  church,  which  later  became  the  Lyceum  when  that 
institution  became  popular. 

Further  on,  a  tablet  on  the  right  marks  the  site  where 
"Luther  Goddard,  a  noted  clock  maker,  established  the  first 
factory  for  the  making  of  American  watches,  about  1790." 
The  leather  factory  across  the  road  has  been  in  continuous 
operation  since  1803. 

Near  the  foot  of  the  hill  stands  General  Artemas  Ward's 
house.  Ward  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution  was  in  com- 
mand of  the  Massachusetts  troops  until  the  arrival  of  Wash- 
ington. It  was  Ward  who  suggested  and  executed  the  fortifica- 
tion of  Dorchester  Heights.  After  the  Battle  of  Bunker  Hill  he 
was  severely  censured  for  his  failure  to  send  troops  to  the  sup- 
port of  Prescott,  but  he  really  showed  wisdom  and  caution  in 
not  risking  the  whole  of  the  provincial  for«es  at  Bunker  Hill. 

Half  a  mile  beyond  at  a  fork  in  the  roads  stands  Farrar's 
Tavern,  the  most  historic  of  the  three  old  taverns  of  the  town. 
It  originally  belonged  to  John  Farrar,  whose  little  daughter 
when  Washington  first  stopped  there  exclaimed  in  disappoint- 
ment: "Why,  he  is  nothing  but  a  man!"  The  inn  was  later 
bought  by  Levi  Pease,  the  'Father  of  the  Stage  Coach'  and 
the  most  famous  innkeeper,  stage  driver  and  owner  of  the 
coaching  days.  He  it  was  who  in  1783  opened  the  first 
coach  line  from  Boston  to  Hartford,  which  was  later  extended 


142  SHREWSBURY— MARLBORO 

through  to  New  York.  Before  long  he  made  the  journey  from 
Boston  to  Worcester  in  one  day  and  through  to  New  York  in 
six.  The  fare  was  at  first  fourpence,  and  later  threepence  a 
mile,  making  the  charge  between  $18  and  $20  through  to 
New  York.  It  was  through  his  influence  and  his  example  that 
the  turnpike  roads,  a  great  improvement  over  the  old  highway, 
were  instituted.  He  drove  the  coach  until  old  age  forced  him 
to  retire,  just  before  his  death  in  1824. 

Shrewsbury  was  settled  by  people  from  Marlboro  in  1717  under  a 
grant  which  provided  that  "they  number  forty  families,  build  them- 
selves houses  and  settle  an  orthodox  minister  within  three  years." 
In  the  eighteenth  century  there  were  some  eccentric  characters  in  the 
town.  'Old  Brazil'  (Basil  Mann)  was  an  Indian  who  had  spent  his 
early  days  as  a  pirate.  Another  was  one  Tombolin  about  whom  many 
rhymes  and  doggerels  were  made: 

"Tombolin  had  no  breeches  to  wear, 

So  he  got  his  mother  to  make  him  a  pair 

Flesh  side  out  and  wool  side  in, 

They're  warmer  so,   says  Tombolin." 

Richard  Grimes  of  Hubbardston  used  to  come  over  to  Shrewsbury 
for  convivial  purposes,  and  his  memory  has  been  perpetuated  in  the 
verses  of  Albert  C.  Green,  the  first  of  which  follows: 

"Old  Grimes  is  dead,  that  good  old  man, 

We  ne'er  shall  see  him  more, 

He  used  to  wear  a  long-tailed  coat 

All  buttoned  down  before." 

During  stage  coach  days  there  were  three  good  inns  here.  Probably 
the  oldest  of  these  was  Baldwin's,  where  in  1727  General  Artemas 
Ward  was  born.  It  later  became  the  rendezvous  of  sympathizers  with 
Shays'  Rebellion,  who  used  the  lawn  in  front  as  a  drill  ground. 

10.0  NORTHBORO.  Alt  311  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1713  (1910),  1797 
(1915).  Worcester  Co.  Settled  1700.  Mfg.  shoddy,  woolens 
and  worsteds,  foundry  and  machine  shop  products. 

The  highway  to  Boston  is  the  main  street  of  the  village  and  is 
lined  on  either  side  by  fine  old  homes  and  spreading  elms. 
This  old  town  on  the  Assabet  river  is  given  over  largely  to 
dairy  farming  and  the  raising  of  apples,  industries  which  have 
attracted  a  considerable  number  of  French  Canadians. 

In  1884  a  portion  of  the  skeleton  of  a  mastodon  was  un- 
earthed about  six  feet  below  the  surface  on  the  property  of 
W.  U.  Maynard,  not  far  from  the  Shrewsbury  line.  This  is 
the  first  and  only  proof  of  the  existence  of  the  mastodon  in 
the  country  east  of  the  Hudson  (p  29). 

About  two  miles  beyond  the  town  a  tablet  on  the  right 
marks  the  site  of  the  Goodnow  Garrison  House.  A  large 
boulder  with  one  side  suitably  engraved,  on  the  sidehill  about 
300  yards  southeast  of  the  site,  marks  the  spot  where  Mary 
Goodnow  was  killed  by  Indians. 

In  August,  1707,  two  women,  Mrs.  Fay  and  Mary  Goodnow,  were 
culling  herbs  in  the  meadow  when  a  party  of  twenty-four  Indians 


R.    I   §  5-     WORCESTER    TO    BOSTON  143 

approached  them  from  the  woods.  Mrs.  Fay  made  her  escape  to  the 
garrison  and  aided  the  sentinel  on  duty  to  defend  it  until  the  arrival 
of  the  townsmen  who  were  at  work  in  the  fields.  The  following  day 
in  a  furious  conflict  at  Sterling  nine  of  the  Indians  were  killed.  In  the 
pack  of  one  was  found  the  scalp  of  Mary  Goodnow,  whose  lameness 
had  prevented  her  escape  on  the  previous  day.  Soon  afterward  her 
body  was  found  and  buried  here. 

The  route  lies  through  a  verdant  farming  country.  To  the 
north  is  the  village  of  Chapinville,  part  of  Northboro,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Assabet  river  and  Stirrup  Brook.  On  the 
left  appear  the  stone  arches  of  the  Metropolitan  aqueduct. 
The  road,  marked  in  red,  ascends  a  gently  sloping  hill  (400  ft) 
and  follows  the  shore  of  Lake  Williams.  On  the  shore  to  the 
right  is  the  old  Gates  Tavern  established  in  1662,  the  oldest 
commercial  house  in  the  country. 

The  original  house  was  built  in  1662  but  was  burned  by  the  Indians 
in  1676.  The  present  building  was  erected  the  following  year  by 
Lieutenant  Abraham  Williams  and  called  Williams  Tavern  except 
for  a  period  during  the  nineteenth  century  when  it  was  called  the  Gates 
House.  It  became  one  of  the  three  stopping  places  between  Boston 
and  Worcester  when  the  second  stage  coach  line  in  the  country  was 
established  in  1772.  For  some  years  the  front  parlor  served  as  the 
court  room  and  in  the  cellar  are  two  brick  cells  where  prisoners  were 
confined.  Captain  Edward  Hutchinson,  who  was  mortally  wounded 
by  the  Indians  at  Brookfield,  was  brought  here  to  die.  His  was 
the  first  grave  in  the  old  churchyard.  The  Due  de  la  Rochefoucauld 
stopped  here  for  five  days  during  an  illness,  and  in  his  diary  pays 
tribute  to  the  kind  treatment  he  received.  Washington  on  his  trium- 
phal tour  of  1789  was  entertained  here  by  the  town  authorities. 

15. S    MARLBORO.     Alt  400  ft.    Pop  14,579  (1910),  15,250  (1915). 

Middlesex  Co.     Settled  1656.     Indian  names  Ockoocangan- 

sett  and  Whipsuppenicke.    Highest  city  in  the  State.    Mfg. 

shoes,  shoe  dies,  boxes,  foundry  and  machine  shop  products; 

printing  and  publishing.    Value  of  Product  (19 13),  $9, 48 1,000; 

Payroll,  $2,027,000. 

This  busy  little  city  with  its  attractive  streets  and  hand- 
some public  buildings  is  said  to  be  the  world's  sixth  shoe 
town.  It  is  the  most  western  city  of  the  Massachusetts  shoe 
belt  and  the  Rice  &  Hutchins,  Ashby-Crawford,  John  A.  Frye, 
O'Keefe,  and  Howe  Shoe  Companies  have  factories  here  which 
turn  out  approximately  20,000  pairs  a  day.  In  1905  the  value 
of  the  shoe  output  was  $7,468,000. 

Entering  the  city  from  the  west,  on  the  left  at  the  corner  of 
Main  and  Pleasant  Sts.  is  the  Rev.  Aaron  Smith  house.  The 
Library  stands  on  the  site  of  the  house  of  Rev.  Asa  Packard, 
father  of  the  celebrated  entomologist  of  Brown  University. 
Opposite  the  Soldiers'  Monument  in  Monument  Square  is 
the  G.A.R.  Hall,  in  front  of  which  is  the  John  Brown  bell, 
brought  from  Harper's  Ferry,  which  he  planned  to  ring  to 
signal  the  rising  of  the  slaves.  In  1861  it  was  seized  by  Fed- 
eral soldiers  from  Marlboro,  who  left  it  at  Williamsport,  Va., 


144  MARLBORO— SOUTH  SUDBURY 

where  it  remained  until  the  G.A.R.  reunion  at  Washington, 
1892.  Some  of  the  veterans  recalled  the  incident  and  went  to 
Williamsport  in  search  of  it.  Finding  it  intact  they  shipped 
it  home  in  triumph. 

Ockoocangansett  Hill  to  the  north  is  said  to  have  been  an 
Indian  burying  ground  and  'planting  field.'  To  the  southeast 
is  Pine  Hill  on  the  shores  of  Reservoir  Number  Five  of  the 
Metropolitan  Water  System. 

At  some  time  previous  to  1665  the  apostle  Eliot  had  secured  a  grant 
of  land  from  the  General  Court  to  the  Indians,  quaintly  enough,  where 
some  of  his  converts  built  a  village  called  Ockoocangansett,  on  the  hill 
still  known  by  this  name.  It  was  one  of  the  seven  principal  'praying 
towns'  of  Rev.  John  Eliot's  Indians.  Daniel  Gookin  wrote  in  1676: 
"This  village  contains  about  ten  families,  and  consequently  about 
fifty  souls.  It  hath  several  good  orchards  on  it  planted  by  the  In- 
dians. Their  ruler  here  was  Onomog  who  is  lately  deceased."  Fol- 
lowing the  prevailing  custom  of  the  time  the  first  meeting  house  was 
built  upon  a  hill.  In  March,  1676,  the  Rev.  Asa  Packard  says,  "On 
the  Sabbath  when  Mr.  Brimsmead  was  in  sermon,  the  worshipping 
assembly  was  suddenly  dispersed  by  an  outcry  of  'Indians  at  the  door' 
.  .  .  but  the  God  whom  they  were  worshipping  shielded  their  lives  and 
limbs,  excepting  the  arm  of  one  Moses  Newton.  In  a  few  minutes 
they  were  sheltered  in  their  fort,  with  the  mutual  feelings  peculiar  to 
such  a  scene."  From  the  garrison  house  they  witnessed  the  destruc- 
tion of  their  homes,  though  powerless  to  act.  Following  this  event  the 
town  was  deserted  for  a  time,  but  the  following  year  the  settlers  re- 
turned. After  the  abandonment  of  Brookfield  this  was  the  western- 
most town  till  the  Connecticut  was  reached.  Some  of  the  early 
spellings  of  the  town,  "Marlberg"  and  "Marlbridge,"  would  indicate 
that  the  name  was  derived  from  the  presence  of  marl  in  the  neighborhood. 
The  route  follows  Main  St.  past  the  City  Hall,  on  the  right, 
and  one  of  the  large  shoe  factories.  At  the  end  of  the  street 
the  road  to  the  right  leads  to  Southboro  where  the  Southboro 
Arms  is  located.  Our  route  follows  a  branch  trolley  line  to  the 
left  as  indicated  by  the  red  bands  on  the  telegraph  poles. 

The  road  emerges  from  the  woods  and  crosses  a  drowsy  little 
brook  into  a  sylvan  opening  studded  with  enormous  oaks. 
"A  region  of  repose  it  seems, 
A  place  of  slumber  and  of  dreams, 
Remote  among  the  wooded  hills." 

In  the  midst  of  a  sparsely  settled  tract  far  from  other 
houses,  back  from  the  road,  which  some  years  ago  was  altered 
to  afford  dooryard,  stands  The  Wayside  Inn  (20.6)  in  the  town 
of  Sudbury.  A  famous  old  tavern  in  Colonial  days,  Longfellow 
by  his  "Tales  of  a  Wayside  Inn"  has  made  it  better  known 
than  any  other  American  hostelry. 

"As  ancient  is  this  hostelry 
As  any  in  the  land  may  be, 
Built  in  the  old  Colonial  day, 
When  men  lived  in  a  grander  way, 
With  ampler  hospitality." 


R.   I   §  5-     WORCESTER    TO    BOSTON  145 

Here  are  shown  the  historic  chambers  occupied  by  Washing- 
ton, Lafayette,  and  Longfellow,  furnished  in  the  style  of  the 
period.  The  interesting  old  tap  room  retains  its  original  form. 
The  proprietor  since  1897,  Edward  R.  Lemon,  is  an  anti- 
quarian who  has  here  brought  together  an  interesting  collec- 
tion of  oldtime  furniture,  utensils,  books,  and  prints. 

About  1700  David  Howe  received  a  grant  of  130  acres  here  and  began 
the  erection  of  a  house.  The  Howes,  who  came  of  good  English  stock, 
lost  their  fortune  and  took  to  inn-keeping.  Colonel  Ezekiel  Howe 
succeeded  in  1746  and  reigned  as  landlord  for  half  a  century.  He 
hung  out  the  sign  board  with  the  red  horse,  and  Howe's  Tavern  be- 
came the  Red  Horse  Tavern.  During  the  French  and  Indian  Wars, 
as  it  was  on  the  main  route  from  Boston  to  Albany,  it  was  frequently 
the  halting  place  for  troops.  In  1706  Adam  Howe  became  the  pro- 
prietor and  in  1836  was  succeeded  by  Lyman  Howe,  who  died  in  1860, 
when  the  old  house  ceased  to  be  a  tavern,  after  a  record  of  160  years 
under  four  landlords.  It  was  the  last  Howe  who  greeted  Longfellow 
when  he  came  to  the  inn. 

"Grave  in  his  aspect  and  attire; 
A  man  of  ancient  pedigree, 
A  Justice  of  the  Peace  was  he, 
Known  in  all  Sudbury  as  'The  Squire.'" 

The  poet's  first  visit  was  in  1840  of  which  he  writes:  "The  stage 
left  Boston  at  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  reaching  the  Sudbury 
tavern  for  breakfast,  a  considerable  portion  of  the  route  being  travelling 
in  total  darkness,  and  without  your  having  the  least  idea  who  your 
companion  inside  might  be." 

The  cheer  he  met  brought  him  frequently  thereafter,  and  he  made 
this  the  scene  of  the  Canterbury  Tales  of  American  literature.  The 
narrators  of  the  "Tales"  have  been  identified  as  the  poet's  friends  who 
gathered  here  with  him:  Henry  Wales  was  the  "Student  of  old  books 
and  ways";  Luigi  Monti,  American  consul  at  Palermo,  the  young 
Sicilian,  "in  sight  of  Etna  born  and  bred";  Professor  Treadwell,  the 
"Theologian,  from  the  school  of  Cambridge  on  the  Charles";  T.  W. 
Parsons,  translator  of  Dante,  was  the  poet;  and  Ole  Bull,  the  famous 
violinist,  was  the  blue-eyed  Norseman  who  sang  "The  Saga  of  King 
Olaf"  and  played  his  Stradivarius,  "a  marvel  of  the  lutist's  art." 

Beyond  the  Inn,  by  the  roadside  a  tablet  marks  the  site  of 
the  old  Parmenter  garrison  house,  built  before  1686.  To  the 
south  Nobscot  Hill  (602  ft),  a  mountainous,  wooded  mass, 
rises  precipitately.  On  its  slopes  is  a  famous  spring  whose 
waters  are  extensively  bottled. 

23.0  SOUTH  SUDBURY.  Alt  130  ft.  Pop  (Sudbury  twp)  1120 
(1910),  1206  (1915).  Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1638.  Indian 
name  Musketaquid. 

South  Sudbury  is  probably  the  most  important  of  the  Sud- 
bury villages.  On  Green  Hill  to  the  northeast  are  two 
monuments  commemorating  the  massacre  of  1676.  The 
earlier  was  erected  by  President  Wadsworth  of  Harvard  Col- 
lege, whose  father  was  captain  of  the  ambushed  troops.  In 
1852,  the  second  of  these,  a  granite  shaft,  was  erected  bear- 
ing this  inscription:  "This  monument  is  erected  by  the  Com- 


146  SOUTH    SUDBURY— WESTON 

monwealth  of  Massachusetts  and  by  the  town  of  Sudbury  in 
grateful  remembrance  of  the  service  and  sufferings  of  the 
founders  of  the  state  .  .  .  who  fell  near  this  spot  .  .  .  while  de- 
fending the  frontier  settlement  against  the  allied  Indian  forces 
of  Philip  of  Pokanoket." 

Sudbury  Center  lies  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  north.  A  mile 
to  the  north  of  this  is  Whitehall,  the  summer  home  of  Ralph 
Adams  Cram,  the  Boston  architect,  whose  cult  is  the  Gothic, 
and  who  has  demonstrated  his  genius  notably  at  Princeton 
and  West  Point.  Like  the  surrounding  towns  Sudbury  is 
rapidly  being  transformed  from  an  agricultural  community 
into  a  region  of  gentlemen's  suburban  estates.  Joe  Chandler, 
restorer  of  the  Old  South  Church  and  the  Old  State  House, 
lives  here. 

Some  men  of  Watertown  complaining  of  the  "straightness  of  ac- 
commodation and  want  of  meadow"  were  granted  land  here  in  1638. 
The  first  settlement  was  on  the  east  side  of  Sudbury  river,  in  what  is 
now  Wayland.  On  the  outbreak  of  King  Philip's  War,  the  day  after 
the  Indians  had  burned  the  deserted  houses  at  Marlboro  they  attacked 
Sudbury,  then  a  frontier  town,  killed  several,  and  burned  a  number  of 
houses  and  barns.  In  the  graphic  words  of  Mather,  "Mischief  was 
done  and  several  lives  cut  off  by  the  Indians."  Captain  Wadsworth 
with  seventy  men  who  had  been  sent  to  the  aid  of  Marlboro  learned 
that  the  Indians  had  turned  on  Sudbury.  Marching  post  haste  in 
that  direction  he  was  led  into  an  ambush  on  Green  Hill  near  the  site 
of  the  monument.  The  woods  were  set  on  fire,  the  little  band  sur- 
rounded, and  only  about  twelve  of  them  escaped.  Many  of  those 
captured  were  subjected  to  horrible  tortures.  In  1776  Sudbury  was 
the  most  populous  town  in  Middlesex  County  and  took  a  prominent 
part  in  the  pre-Revolutionary  events.  More  Revolutionary  soldiers 
lie  buried  in  Sudbury  cemetery  than  in  any  other  in  the  State. 

From  South  Sudbury  the  route  lies  across  the  marshy 
meadows  of  the  Sudbury  river.  To  the  south  of  the  road  and 
just  west  of  the  river  is  Heard 's  Island,  a  low  drumlin  with 
Heard's  Pond  on  one  side  and  the  river  on  the  other.  The  old 
homestead  here,  built  in  1714,  now  the  residence  of  Edmund 
H.  Sears,  has  been  carefully  restored.  The  doorway  is  from 
Oliver  Wendell  Holmes'  birthplace.  Before  this  stands  one  of 
the  largest  elms  in  Massachusetts.  At  a  distance  of  five  feet 
from  the  ground  it  measures  21  feet  in  circumference,  and  its 
pendant  branches  touch  the  ground  at  a  distance  of  65  feet  from 
the  trunk,  thus  covering  a  space  130  feet  in  diameter. 

26.0  WAYLAND.  Alt  128  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2206  (1910),  2033  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1638. 

Once  a  rich  agricultural  town,  most  of  the  valuable  farms  have 
been  taken  up  in  the  last  decade  for  the  homes  of  Boston  pro- 
fessional and  business  men. 

The  Library  was  the  first  free  public  library  in  Massachu- 
setts. It  was  founded  in  1848,  though  a  circulating  library 


R.    I    §   5-      WORCESTER    TO    BOSTON  147 

association  had  been  formed  as  early  as  1795.  One  of  the 
founders  of  the  library  was  President  Francis  Wayland  of 
Brown  University,  for  whom  the  town  was  named  in  1835. 
The  Unitarian  Church,  in  the  Bulfinch  style,  built  in  1815,  has 
not  been  modernized,  and  still  retains  its  old  bell  cast  by  Paul 
Revere,  double  windows,  and  huge  shoe  scrapers  on  the  en- 
trance porch.  Across  the  street  is  the  little  white  building 
formerly  the  law  office  of  Judge  Mellen,  the  last  presiding 
judge  of  the  Court  of  Common  Pleas.  At  his  death  in  1875 
his  office  was  sealed  and  has  never  been  opened  since. 

The  Wayland  Inn  since  its  establishment  in  1771  has  con- 
stantly kept  its  latch  string  out.  It  was  patronized  by  Wash- 
ington on  his  way  to  take  command  of  the  Continental  Army 
in  1775.  For  a  time  it  was  called  the  Pequod  House.  On 
Bow  Road  just  outside  the  village  stood  the  Parmenter 
Tavern.  The  farm  is  still  in  the  family,  no  deed  ever  having 
been  passed  since  1638  when  it  was  granted  to  John  Parmenter. 
Here  too  were  located  most  of  the  early  houses,  because  the 
General  Court  in  1635  ordered  that  no  dwelling  be  built  over 
half  a  mile  from  the  meeting  house  in  any  new  plantation. 
The  old  Morse  House  of  1758  is  a  splendid  example  of  the 
square  homestead  with  the  huge  center  chimney. 

Another  notable  estate  in  Wayland  is  that  of  Francis  Shaw, 
The  Five  Paths,  on  Overthrow  Hill,  comprising  some  thousand 
acres.  The  house  is  an  exact  copy  of  one  of  Bulfinch's  finest 
Colonial  mansions  built  by  him  near  Boston.  On  one  of  the 
highest  hilltops  of  Wayland  is  Perkins  Farm,  the  summer 
home  of  the  Misses  Loring  of  Boston,  covering  about  five 
hundred  acres,  from  whose  beautiful  house  half  of  Massachu- 
setts is  visible.  The  house  has  stood  for  over  a  hundred  years. 

From  Wayland  the  route  follows  the  red  markers  through  a 
country  of  beautifully  diversified  stretches  of  meadow  with 
meandering  streams  alternating  with  wooded  hills  and  rocky 
ledges.  The  road  is  lined  with  an  ever  increasing  number  of 
residences  of  Boston  people. 

Among  these  is  the  fine  century-old  Hayward  house,  stand- 
ing back  from  the  road  on  rising  ground  surrounded  by  wide- 
spreading  lawns  dotted  with  noble  oaks,  which  once  sheltered 
the  Indians.  The  winding  avenue  is  shaded  by  great  lindens. 
Mrs.  Hayward,  its  present  mistress,  is  more  widely  known  as 
'Beatrice  Herford,'  whose  monologues  have  achieved  an  in- 
ternational fame. 

29.5     WESTON.     Alt  161  ft.     Pop  (twp)  2106  (1910),  2342  (1915). 

Middlesex  Co.    Settled  1630.    Mfg.  organs. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  of  the  old  towns  about  the 
fringe  of  greater  Boston  and  has  become  a  favorite  residential 


148  WESTON— BOSTON 

region  with  numerous  beautiful  estates  upon  its  outskirts. 
The  stone  church  in  the  village  square  has  a  bell  cast  by  Paul 
Revere  in  1801.  Not  far  from  the  square  is  the  Sears  place, 
the  Italian  gardens  of  which  can  be  glimpsed  from  the  road. 
Nearly  all  the  quaint  Colonial  houses  have  been  remodeled  by 
Boston  business  and  professional  men  for  residences. 

The  most  interesting  of  the  ancient  buildings  in  the  town 
is  the  old  Golden  Ball  Tavern  on  Central  Ave.,  erected  in  1751 
by  Colonel  Elisha  Jones.  He  was  an  ardent  Tory  in  constant 
communication  with  the  headquarters  of  General  Gage  in 
Boston,  who  frequently  came  here  with  his  staff  for  convivial 
suppers.  It  was  here  that  John  Howe,  one  of  Gage's  spies, 
disguised  as  a  Yankee  farmer,  was  discovered  by  the  patriotic 
townspeople,  but  with  the  inn-keeper's  aid  escaped.  On  this 
trip  he  went  as  far  as  Worcester,  returning  by  way  of  Concord, 
where  he  learned  of  the  military  stores  that  had  been  gath- 
ered there.  He  informed  General  Gage  that  any  attempt  to 
send  artillery  over  the  Weston  Road  would  be  disastrous. 
Howe's  information  was  the  direct  cause  of  the  Lexington  and 
Concord  fights. 

The  early  settlement  at  Weston  was  known  as  the  Farms  or  the 
Farm  Lands.  The  site  at  the  junction  of  Charles  River  and  Stony 
Brook  was  originally  selected  by  Winthrop  for  the  capital  city  of  the 
Bay  Colony  and  a  palisaded  wall  was  begun,  but  fearing  attacks  from 
the  French  the  work  was  stopped  and  the  present  site  of  Boston  was 
selected  instead.  From  Weston  the  Old  Connecticut  Path  to  the 
Connecticut  Valley  plunged  into  the  wilderness. 

The  pleasantest  and  most  direct  of  the  various  routes  into 
Boston  is  by  way  of  Commonwealth  Ave.  From  the  Vil- 
lage Square,  turn  sharp  right  into  Newton  St.  which  runs 
across  a  pleasant  hill  country  overlooking  the  Charles  river. 
The  road  passes  over  the  western  slopes  of  Doublet  Hill  (360 
ft)  on  which  is  an  equalizing  reservoir  of  the  Metropolitan 
Water  Board.  On  South  Ave.  turn  left,  crossing  the  Charles 
river  by  the  old  Weston  stone  bridge  which  is  to  be  rebuilt  in 
1916.  The  Charles  river  here  is  a  favorite  canoeing  resort. 
To  the  right  upstream  are  the  Riverside  Recreation  Ground 
and  the  boathouses  of  numerous  canoe  clubs. 

Half  a  mile  to  the  left,  on  the  western  side  of  the  river,  a 
wood  road  leads  to  Norumbega  Tower,  erected  by  Eben  N. 
Horsford,  professor  of  chemistry  at  Harvard,  who  made  a 
fortune  from  Acid  Phosphate,  a  simple  chemical  compound 
sold  as  a  proprietary  article.  As  the  elaborate  inscription  on 
the  tower  indicates,  Horsford  believed  this  to  be  the  site  of 
a  Norse  settlement  of  about  the  year  1000,  mentioned  in  the 
Saga  of  Eric  the  Red. 

Commonwealth  Ave.,  laid  out  about  twenty-five  years  ago, 


R.    I   §   5-     WORCESTER   TO    BOSTON  149 

runs  in  graceful  sweeping    curves  from   the  Weston    bridge 
through  the  Newtons  into  the  heart  of 

44.0    BOSTON  (R.  20). 

From  Weston  the  State  Highway,  with  red  markers,  con- 
tinues along  the  course  of  the  Old  Post  Road  to  WALTHAM 
(33.0),  on  Route  21. 

Note.  The  North  Shore,  avoiding  Boston,  is  reached  via 
Route  21,  following  Trapelo  Road  and  Pleasant  St.,  through 
Medford  and  Middlesex  Fells  to  Stoneham,  Saugus,  and  Lynn, 
there  joining  Route  36. 

From  Waltham  the  Post  Road  continues  on  Main  St.  to 

36.0     WATERTOWN.     Alt  19  ft.     Pop  12,875  (1910),  16,515   (1915). 

Middlesex    Co.     Settled    1630.     Indian    name    Pequasset. 

Mfg.  woolen  and  knit  goods,  rubber  boots,  paint,  soap,  stoves, 

and  machine  shop  products. 

The  stone  bridge  over  the  Charles  commemorates  the  visit 
of  the  Norsemen,  whose  mounds,  earthworks,  and  foundations 
Professor  Horsford  believed  are  found  in  the  town,  both  above 
the  bridge  at  Norumbega  and  below  near  Mt.  Auburn  Ceme- 
tery. The  sole  relics  of  the  town's  early  days  are  the  old  bury- 
ing grounds,  one  on  Grove  St.,  first  used  in  1642,  the  other  at 
the  site  of  the  First  Parish  Church.  Harriet  G.  Hosmer,  the 
sculptor,  was  a  native  of  the  town.  The  Government  Arsenal 
is  the  most  notable  institution  here. 

One  of  the  oldest  towns  of  the  Bay  Colony,  at  first  called  Salton- 
stalls  Plantation,  this  was  the  source  of  many  other  settlements,  for 
its  discontented  inhabitants  soon  finding  themselves  crowded  estab- 
lished Wethersfield,  Conn.,  called  the  mother  of  towns. 

Here  occurred  the  first  recorded  American  protest  against  taxation 
without  representation,  in  1632,  when  the  inhabitants  objected  to 
paying  for  the  erection  of  a  fort  in  Cambridge  without  having  had  a 
voice  in  the  matter.  The  Provincial  Congress  met  in  the  First  Parish 
Church,  April-July,  1775. 

From  the  Square  in  Watertown,  various  routes  lead  into 
Boston,  i,  via  North  Beacon  St.  along  the  river  into  Brighton 
and  Allston  and  Commonwealth  Ave.;  2,  via  Arsenal  St.  and 
Central  Square,  Cambridge,  into  Cambridge  and  across  Harvard 
Bridge,  Boston;  3,  via  Mt.  Auburn  St.  and  Harvard  Square. 

The  second  route  passes  the  U.S.  Arsenal,  occupying  about 
one  hundred  acres,  between  Arsenal  St.  and  the  river.  Car- 
riages for  the  largest  pieces  of  artillery  are  manufactured  here. 
Permission  to  enter  must  be  obtained  at  the  Commandant's 
office.  Just  below  is  the  notable  group  of  Gothic  buildings  of 
the  Perkins  Institution  for  the  Blind. 

The  third  route  follows  Mt.  Auburn  St.,  which  diverges  from 
Watertown  Square  to  the  left  of  the  other  two,  passing  Mt. 
Auburn  Cemetery  and  Harvard  University,  reaching  Boston 
by  Harvard  Bridge  (R.  20). 


R.  2  §  1.     NEW  HAVEN  to  BOSTON.        167.5  m. 
Via  NEW  LONDON  and  PROVIDENCE.     STATE  ROAD  throughout. 

Of  the  four  chief  routes  from  New  York  to  Boston  this  Shore 
Route  is  perhaps  of  second  importance  after  the  Springfield 
Route,  as  it  was  second  in  historical  development.  Following 
the  shore  of  the  Sound  and  Narragansett  Bay,  it  offers  many 
attractions,  and  passes  a  succession  of  summer  resorts  of  which 
Watch  Hill,  Narragansett  Pier,  and  Newport  are  best  known. 

The  road  follows  the  "Pequot  Path,"  an  ancient  Indian  trail  along 
which  the  Colonists  pursued  the  Indians  in  the  Pequot  War  in  1637. 
It  was  first  used  by  the  post  riders  from  Boston  to  New  York  because 
of  obstructions  on  the  main  post  road  through  Springfield  and  Hart- 
ford. In  1693  a  weekly  post  from  Boston  to  New  York  was  established 
through  Saybrook.  Through  the  Revolution  this  was  known  as  the 
"Lower  Road,"  or  "Old  Post  Road,"  to  distinguish  it  from  the  "Upper 
Road,"  followed  by  Route  i,  through  Hartford  and  Springfield,  and 
the  "Middle  Road,"  Route  3,  through  Hartford  and  Pomfret.  The 
"Lower  Road"  was  generally  used  by  travelers,  not  as  a  'through' 
route,  but  as  the  way  from  New  York  to  Rhode  Island. 

R.  2  §  1.  New  Haven  to  New  London.  52.5  m. 

Via  GUILFORD  and  SAYBROOK.  STATE  ROAD  with  red  markers. 

The  main  road  usually  runs  inland  through  the  larger  vil- 
lages. But  frequently  by  taking  a  road  nearer  the  shore,  which 
is  not  likely  to  be  so  well  surfaced,  we  get  more  enticing  views 
of  the  sea,  its  coves  and  headlands.  The  beautiful  south  shore 
holds  countless  pictures  in  every  mile.  Along  no  similar 
stretch  of  road  in  America  are  there  so  many  houses  of  the 
Colonial  period.  Branford,  Guilford,  and  Saybrook,  settled 
before  1644,  have  escaped  the  influx  of  manufacturing  and 
consequent  foreign  population,  and  preserve  much  of  their 
ancient  character. 

The  Connecticut  shore  from  Branford  on  is  a  characteristic  stretch 
of  country.  It  is  what  geographers  call  a  drowned  coast,  clearly  show- 
ing evidence  of  subsidence  and  of  the  silting  up  of  valleys  along  the 
shore  front  to  form  salt  marshes.  The  coast  is  an  ever  changing 
panorama  of  rocky  headlands  and  islets,  protecting  smooth  sand 
beaches.  Along  the  route  nubbly  hillocks  of  hard  granite  and  gneiss, 
sometimes  with  quarries  opened  in  their  sides,  are  often  shrouded  in  a 
dense  growth  of  oak,  cherry,  and  deciduous  trees.  Intermittently  we 
cross  areas  of  salt  marshes  traversed  by  winding  tidal  creeks  or  broad 
estuaries.  The  salt  marshes  afforded  the  early  settlers  a  ready  supply 
of  salt  hay,  which  was  valued  by  them  more  highly  than  it  is  now. 
Today  they  afford  a  brilliant  sequence  in  coloring  from  the  brilliant 
greens  of  early  Spring  to  the  umbers  and  browns  of  late  Fall. 

From  the  New  Haven  Green  turn  east  on  Chapel  St.  (i.o), 
through  the  least  attractive  portion  of  this  city,  cross  the 
mouth  of  Mill  River,  and  at  Ferry  St.  with  trolley  turn  sharply 
to  the  right,  crossing  the  Quinnipiac  by  the  iron  drawbridge, 


R.  2  §  i.  NEW  HAVEN  TO  NEW  LONDON  151 

and  at  Forbes  Corners,  by  the  brick  church,  turn  left  on  Main 
St.,  following  the  red  markers.  The  road  straight  ahead  leads 
to  Morris  Cove. 

4.3    EAST  HAVEN.    Pop  (twp)  1795.    New  Haven  Co.    Settled  1638. 

On  the  broad  village  Green  shaded  with  giant  buttonwood 
trees  is  a  venerable  stone  church.  In  the  early  days  East 
Haven  was  a  resort  of  the  Indians  for  clams  and  oysters,  and 
as  early  as  1665  the  colonists  here  established  iron  works. 

From  East  Haven  we  bear  left  at  the  Green,  leaving  the 
trolley.  To  the  north  is  Lake  Saltonstall  in  a  quietly  attrac- 
tive country,  where  the  Yale  boat  races  were  formerly  rowed. 
To  the  south,  Short  Beach  with  its  rocky  islands  and  little 
bays  is  a  favorite  place  for  shore  dinners.  This  region  is 
noted  for  its  fine  shell  roads. 

7.5  BRANFORD.  Pop  (twp)  6047,  (borough)  2560.  New  Haven  Co. 
Settled  1644.  Indian  name  Totoket.  Mfg.  malleable  and  gal- 
vanized iron,  steel  castings,  pipe  fittings,  and  drawn  wire. 

Branford  is  an  ancient  village  whose  shores  have  been  trans- 
formed into  a  long-drawn-out  summer  resort,  lined  with  hotels 
and  cottages,  including  Indian  Neck,  Double  Beach,  Crescent 
Bluff,  Short  Beach,  and  Stony  Creek. 

As  we  enter  Branford  on  the  left  is  the  Blackstone  Memorial 
Library,  a  handsome  building  of  Tennessee  marble,  in  classic 
Greek  style,  erected  in  1896  by  Timothy  Blackstone,  a  native 
of  the  town  and  former  president  of  the  Chicago  and  Alton 
Railroad.  Interesting  frescoes  by  O.  D.  Grover  of  Chicago,  por- 
traying the  development  of  book  printing,  decorate  the  interior 
of  the  dome.  The  village  Green  is  fringed  by  huge  elms.  The 
site  of  the  Russell  Parsonage,  where  Yale  College  was  founded, 
is  on  Montowese  St.,  to  the  right.  Near  the  shore  is  the 
large  plant  of  the  Malleable  Iron  Fittings  Company  (p  800) . 

The  town  was  named  from  Brentford,  England.  When  in  1665  the 
colonies  of  Hartford  and  New  Haven  were  united,  the  disgusted  citizens 
of  Branford,  who  had  bitterly  opposed  this  union,  with  obstinacy 
collected  their  household  effects,  and,  headed  by  their  pastor,  moved 
in  a  body  to  Newark,  N.J. 

Between  Branford  and  Guilford  the  main  route  runs  inland 
at  some  distance  from  the  shore.  Along  the  shore  between 
Branford  and  Guilford  are  several  villages  at  intervals  of  a 
mile  or  two.  Pine  Orchard  comprises  several  cottage  colonies, 
some  handsome  estates,  summer  hotels,  and  the  eighteen-hole 
course  of  the  Pine  Orchard  Golf  Club.  Horse  Pasture  Hill,  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  back  from  the  shore,  affords  a  fine  view. 

Stony  Creek  is  a  little  fishing  village  and  summer  resort 
nestling  among  the  inlets  of  the  Sound.  The  Thimble  Islands, 
reported  to  number  365,  lie  off  the  mouth  of  the  harbor.  To 


152  BRANFORD— MADISON 

Money  Island  there  clings  a  legend  of  a  treasure  buried  by 
Captain  Kidd.  Summer  residences  dot  the  isles,  and  a  casino 
here  is  a  center  of  the  social  life. 

Leetes  Island,  an  island  only  at  high  tide,  has  the  summer 
colonies  of  Harrison  Point,  Little  Harbor,  Great  Harbor,  and 
others  overlooking  the  Sound.  Here  the  British  landed  in 
1781,  burning  one  house  and  two  barns.  There  are  granite 
quarries  in  the  vicinity,  and  hereabout  is  found  the  red  and 
yellow  ocher  from  which  the  Indians  made  their  colors. 

Just  before  reaching  Guilford  we  cross  the  base  of  the 
peninsula  of  Sachem's  Head.  At  the  tip  of  the  rocky  penin- 
sula, where  there  is  a  splendid  little  harbor,  is  a  summer 
colony  including  a  summer  hotel,  a  yacht  club  house,  and  a 
casino.  Here  are  the  cottage  colonies  of  Chimney  Corner  and 
Vineyard  Point  with  Mulberry  Point  a  mile  and  a  half  east- 
ward. The  peninsula's  name  is  accounted  for  by  the  legend 
that  during  the  Pequot  War  in  1637,  when  the  Pequots  were 
exterminated,  the  Mohegan  Sachem  Uncas  after  the  battle 
of  Bloody  Cove  Beach  pursued  a  Pequot  chief  who  was  at- 
tempting to  escape  by  swimming  to  a  bluff  opposite,  and  shot 
him,  placing  the  head  in  the  fork  of  an  oak  tree,  where  it  re- 
mained for  many  years.  From  Sachem's  Head  in  1777  Colonel 
Meigs  led  an  expedition  in  whaleboats  against  Sag  Harbor, 
L.I.,  which  burned  all  the  British  vessels,  bringing  about 
British  reprisals  at  Sachem's  Head  a  month  later. 

16.0  GUILFORD.  Pop  (twp)  3001,  (borough)  1608.  New  Haven 
Co.  Settled  1639.  Indian  name  Menuncatuk.  Mfg.  school 
furniture,  iron  castings,  wagon  wheels,  canned  goods,  ex- 
tract of  birch. 

Guilford  is  an  ancient  town  of  quaint  Colonial  houses  and 
quiet  elm-shaded  streets.  Old  Guilford  claims  with  ap- 
parent justice  more  than  a  hundred  pre-Revolutionary  houses. 
Entering  the  village,  the  route  bears  left  round  the  pretty, 
tree-studded  Green.  On  the  site  of  the  old  Fitz-Greene  Halleck 
House,  opposite  the  Green,  stands  the  present  Hotel  Halleck 
with  stores  below.  Fitz-Greene  Halleck,  one  of  the  first 
American  poets,  was  a  native  of  this  town  and  served  as  a 
clerk  in  the  village  store  until  called  to  the  counting  room  of 
the  Astors,  and  after  almost  half  a  century  as  a  social  lion  in 
New  York  returned  here  to  spend  his  last  days  under  his  native 
elms.  In  the  Alderbrook  Cemetery  on  the  Madison  Road,  a 
mile  from  the  Green,  his  granite  monument  bears  the  simple 
inscription,  "Fitz-Greene  Halleck,  1790-1867,"  with  a  couplet 
from  his  "Marco  Bozzaris": 

"One  of  the  few,  the  immortal  names 
That  are  not  born  to  die." 


R.  2  §  I.  NEW  HAVEN  TO  NEW  LONDON  153 

The  Old  Stone  House  on  Whitfield  St.,  a  quarter  mile  south 
of  the  Green,  built  in  1639  by  the  Rev.  Henry  Whitfield,  is 
said  to  be  the  oldest  stone  house  in  the  United  States  outside 
St.  Augustine,  Fla.  It  is  preserved  by  the  State  as  a  historical 
museum,  and  is  well  worth  seeing  (adm.  free).  It  contains  a 
twelve-foot  fireplace,  fine  old  furniture,  and  historical  relics. 
Notable  among  other  ancient  houses  of  the  town  is  the  Grace 
Starr  house,  the  second  oldest,  built  before  1668,  on  Crooked 
Lane,  otherwise  State  St.,  and  the  Acadian  House  on  Union  St., 
which  connects  Crooked  Lane  and  Boston  St.  Here  the  town 
sheltered  destitute  Acadian  peasants  set  ashore  in  Guilford 
from  a  British  ship  in  the  autumn  of  1755  after  the  destruc- 
tion of  Grand  Pre,  N.S.  One  may  still  see  the  cellar  where 
Goffe  and  Whalley  were  con- 
cealed in  June,  1661,  beneath 
Governor  Leete's  storehouse, 
while  the  King's  officers  were 
searching  for  them  in  New 
Haven. 

Near  the  northern  corner  of  the 
Guilford  Green  was  the  homestead 
of  Eli  Foote,  who  married  Roxana, 
daughter  of  General  Andrew  Ward 
of  Nutplains,  whom  Washington 
left  to  keep  the  campfires  burning 
at  Trenton  while  he  withdrew  his 
forces.  General  Ward  was  a  son  of 
Colonel  Andrew  Ward,  a  long-  THE  OLD  STONE  HOUSE 

lived,   thrifty   soul   who  when  he 

served  in  the  French  War  took  his  grog  rations  in  silver  and  brought  home 
six  tablespoons  engraved  "  Louisbourg."  The  second  of  General  Andrew 
Ward's  ten  grandchildren,  named  for  her  mother,  Roxana,  married 
the  famous  Lyman  Beecher  of  Litchfield,  and  became  the  mother  of 
Harriet  Beecher  Stowe  and  Henry  Ward  Beecher.  Nutplains — so 
called  because  of  the  abundance  of  hickory  and  walnut  trees — is  a 
serenely  beautiful  hamlet  a  mile  and  a  half  northeast  of  Guilford  in  the 
valley  of  Kuttawoo  Brook,  or  East  River. 

Leaving  Guilford,  just  west  of  the  Alderbrook  Cemetery  on 
the  right  is  the  famous  'Black  House.'  Its  Huguenot  owner 
painted  it  black  when  he  learned  the  news  of  the  execution  of 
Louis  XVI,  and  it  was  never  repainted  until  a  few  years  ago. 
The  East  river  separates  the  townships  of  Guilford  and 
Madison  and  gives  its  name  to  the  village  of  East  River  (19.0). 

21.0    MADISON.    Pop  (twp)  1534.    New  Haven  Co.    Settled  1639. 

Mfg.  school  apparatus. 

Madison  is  a  quiet  old  village,  the  center  of  a  number  of 
beach  resorts.  The  main  street  is  lined  by  a  quadruple  row  of 
huge  elms  and  bordered  by  fine  old  houses,  many  of  which 
date  from  Colonial  times.  The  town  buildings  are  grouped 
about  the  village  Green. 


154  MADISON— WESTBROOK 

Boston  Street  is  a  broad,  shady  thoroughfare  lined  with  old 
houses.  The  oldest  still  standing  are  the  James  Meigs-Bishop 
house  (1690),  Noah  Bradley  homestead  (1680),  Deacon  John 
Grave  house  (1680),  now  the  residence  of  Miss  Mary  E.  Red- 
field,  Captain  Grifnn-Scranton  house  (1759),  and  the  Deacon 
John  French-Captain  Meigs  house  (1675).  When  the  first 
meeting  house  was  erected  here  in  1705,  "between  John  Grave's 
house  and  Jonathan  Hoit's,"  John  Grave  was  chosen  to  beat 
the  drum  "for  twenty  shillings  a  year." 

After  the  Deerfield  Massacre  some  of  the  Colonists  moved 
from  that  dangerous  region  to  Madison,  then  East  Guilford, 
among  them  Ebenezer  Field,  whose  family  had  suffered  se- 
verely, many  having  been  "captivated"  and  taken  to  Canada. 
David  Dudley  Field,  one  of  the  four  famous  brothers  of  this 
family,  was  born  at  Madison.  A  century  ago  the  village  was 
the  center  of  a  thriving  coasting  trade  and  shipped  cargoes  to 
Nantucket,  New  York,  and  the  South. 

From  East  River  Beach  extend  Crescent,  Middle,  Hammon- 
asset,  and  Sea  Farm  Beach  colonies,  more  than  five  miles  of 
splendid  shore  line.  Tuxis  Island  lies  off  the  shore  directly 
opposite  Madison  and  between  Hogshead  and  Webster  Points. 
From  Webster  Point  the  mile-long  stretch  of  Hammonasset 
Beach  runs  out  to  the  point  of  that  name. 

Three  miles  beyond  Madison  is  the  Hammonasset  river,  the 
boundary  between  New  Haven  and  Middlesex  counties,  on 
which  is  a  fishing  preserve. 

25.0  CLINTON.  Pop  (twp)  1274.  Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1667. 
Indian  name  Hammonasset. 

Clinton,  with  three  miles  of  shore  front  and  a  back  country 
of  forest-covered  hills,  is  the  center  of  a  thriving  summer 
colony  largely  from  New  York,  Hartford,  and  Springfield.  It 
is  the  home  of  "Pond's  Extract "  distilled  from  the  witch-hazel, 
a  shrub  which  abounds  in  the  region  round  about.  To  the 
Indians  known  as  Hammonasset,  it  was  named  from  Kenil- 
worth,  England,  corrupted  to  Killingworth,  a  form  which  sur- 
vives in  the  town  to  the  north,  from  which  Clinton  was  set 
apart  in  1838.  One  of  Longfellow's  "Tales  of  a  Wayside 
Inn,"  "The  Birds  of  Killingworth,"  is  reminiscent  of  this. 

On  the  Green  there  is  a  column  surmounted  by  a  pile  of 
books,  marking  the  site  where  the  earliest  classes  of  Yale  Col- 
lege were  instructed  by  the  first  President,  Rev.  Abraham 
Pierson,  who  was  pastor  of  Killingworth.  Though  the  College 
was  officially  at  Saybrook  (pp  103,  1 58),  he  required  his  students 
to  come  to  him  here.  Beyond  the  Green  on  the  left  is  a  large 
Colonial  house  with  the  John  Stanton  Collection  of  Connecticut 
Antiquities.  Before  the  Morgan  School,  also  on  the  left,  are 


R.  2  §  I.    NEW  HAVEN  TO  NEW  LONDON  '155 

statues  of  Charles  Morgan,  founder  of  the  School,  and  Abraham 
Pierson,  Yale's  first  President. 

The  old  Redfield  house  was  built  in  1706  and  is  now  occu- 
pied by  the  seventh  generation,  direct  descendants  of  John  and 
Priscilla  Alden,  celebrated  by  Longfellow.  It  has  subcellars 
where  valuables  were  hidden  during  the  British  raids.  The 
Jared  Eliot  homestead  stands  on  the  site  of  the  original  house, 
built  by  the  son  of  the  Indian  apostle  (Natick,  R.  24) .  The  Rev. 
Jared  Eliot  was  an  unusual  man  for  his  time,  whose  first  essay 
attracted  Benjamin  Franklin's  attention  so  that  he  purchased 
fifty  copies.  He  taught  the  people  how  to  drain  swamps  and 
introduced  mulberry  trees  and  silk  culture.  His  most  dis- 
tinguished pupil  was  the  Rev.  Samuel  Johnson,  Jr.,  nephew  of 
the  great  Dr.  Johnson,  whom  Bishop  Berkeley  considered 
"one  of  the  finest  wits  in  America."  Johnson  afterward 
became  the  first  President  of  King's  College,  later  Columbia, 
and  he  did  much  to  introduce  the  Church  of  England  service 
in  Connecticut.  His  favorite  pupil  was  Fitz-Greene  Halleck. 

Grove  Beach,  two  miles  beyond  Clinton,  is  a  summer  colony. 
The  bluff,  one  of  the  highest  on  this  shore,  gives  a  splendid 
view.  Duck  Island  breakwater  here  is  the  largest  on  the  Con- 
necticut coast.  Beyond  Grove  Beach  the  route  crosses  the 
Menunketesuck  and  the  Patchogue  rivers. 

29.5     WESTBROOK.     Pop  (twp)  951.     Middlesex  Co.    Settled  1644. 

Indian  name  Menunketeset. 

The  village  is  half  a  mile  from  the  Sound,  but  there  are 
several  summer  colonies  along  its  shore  line, — Menunketesuck 
Point,  Quotonsett  Beach  with  the  Quotonsett  Golf  Club, 
Stannard  Beach,  Money  Point,  and  Kelsey  Point.  Money 
Point  is  another  of  the  numerous  places  where  Captain  Kidd's 
treasure  is  searched  for,  with  no  known  profit. 

This  was  the  site  of  a  permanent  Indian  village  of  the  Nehantic 
tribe,  as  is  indicated  by  the  large  number  of  arrow  heads  yet  found. 
The  first  settlers,  the  three  Chalker  brothers,  built  their  houses  on  the 
little  hill  at  the  foot  of  which  flows  a  brook,  the  dividing  line  between 
Saybrook  and  Westbrook  since  1840,  that  crosses  the  Post  Road. 
The  oldest  house  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  road,  so  modernized  as  to 
have  lost  any  appearance  of  age.  Before  1700  there  was  an  iron- 
works at  Pond  Meadow  where  ore  obtained  in  Mine  Swamp  was 
smelted  and  made  into  anchors  and  nails. 

The  inventor  of  the  submarine,  David  Bushnell,  a  native  of  West- 
brook,  was  born  in  1742.  At  the  age  of  twenty-seven  he  entered  Yale 
at  a  time  when  most  students  were  entering  at  the  age  of  fourteen  and 
fifteen,  and  graduated  in  1775,  on  the  eve  of  the  Revolution.  He 
conceived  the  possibility  of  destroying  Britain's  fleets  by  an  invention 
of  his  which  he  called  the  "American  Turtle."  In  1777  he  informed 
the  Connecticut  Governor,  Trumbull,  Washington's  'Brother  Jona- 
than,' and  the  original  of  'Uncle  Sam'  as  he  is  depicted,  that  he  was 
prepared  to  build  an  "American  Turtle"  that  would  blow  up  the  Brit- 


156  WESTBROOK— OLD    SAYBROOK 

ish  Navy.      First  he  had  to  convince  the  doubters  that  it  would   be 
possible  to  explode  gunpowder  under  water. 

Its  construction  was  carried  out  at  Saybropk  Ferry.  The  Turtle 
was  made  of  oak,  just  large  enough  to  hold  within  a  man  to  operate  the 
paddle  wheels.  The  magazine  which  carried  150  pounds  of  powder 
was  detachable,  to  be  screwed' against"  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  before 
exploding.  The  Turtle  was  completed  and  actually  sank  a  vessel  in 
New  London  harbor,  and  so  terrorized  the  British  that  they  offered 
a  reward  for  Bushnell,  dead  or  alive.  As  a  matter  of  fact  Bushnell  was 
taken  prisoner,  but  the  captors  did  not  know  his  identity,  and  he, 
feigning  to  be  of  weak  mind,  easily  outwitted  them  and  escaped.  Why 
the  Turtle  was  not  made  more  use  of  remains  a  mystery.  Its  remains 
were  long  treasured  on  the  Bushnell  Farm  in  Westbrook.  Robert 
Fulton  later  invented  a  submarine  as  he  did  a  steamboat,  on  ideas 
derived  from  others. 

33.0     OLD  SAYBROOK.  Pop  (twp)  1516.  Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1635. 

Old  Saybrook  today  is  a  quiet,  elm-shaded  village  with  an 
air  of  conservative  oldtime  wealth.  The  streets  of  the  town 
wear  an  old-world  look,  with  their  many  interesting  old  houses 
and  historic  landmarks.  But  in  early  Colonial  history  it  played 
a  leading  role,  and  had  the  Puritan  Revolution  in  England  re- 
sulted otherwise  it  might  today  be  the  leading  city  of  the  State 
with  Oliver  Cromwell  the  great  man  of  its  past.  Through 
Colonial  days,  when  the  river  navigation  was  important,  Say- 
brook  occupied  a  strategic  position,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Con- 
necticut river,  and  later  was  prominent  in  the  East  India 
trade.  Its  importance  was  early  increased  by  becoming  the 
'half-way  stop'  for  the  Boston  Post. 

Near  the  Inn  is  an  ancient,  red  sandstone  milestone,  recording 
the  distance  to  Hartford  as  forty-one  miles.  The  white, 
square-towered  old  church  bears  on  its  front  a  bronze  plate  in- 
forming the  reader  that  it  was  organized  in  "The  Great  Hall 
of  the  Fort"  in  the  summer  of  1646. 

The  Hart  Mansion  was  built  in  1783  by  Captain  Elisha 
Hart,  whose  seven  daughters  here  entertained  Washington 
Irving,  Fitz-Greene  Halleck,  and  other  notables.  Famous 
beauties  of  their  time,  two  of  them  married  Commodores  Isaac 
and  Joseph  Hull  of  War  of  1812  renown.  A  third,  Jeannette,  fell 
in  love  with  the  South  American  patriot  Bolivar  when  he  was 
entertained  here,  till  her  father  put  a  stop  to  the  romance. 
The  Whittlesley  house  was  defended  by  William  Tully  against 
eight  Tories  at  the  time  of  the  Revolution.  "Ye  Old  Saybrooke 
Inn"  was  the  home  of  Captain  Morgan,  a  mariner  of  "genial 
earnestness,"  whose  portrait  Dickens  has  preserved,  with  name 
slightly  disguised,  as  his  hero  Captain  Jorgan  in  "A  Message 
from  the  Sea." 

Old  Saybrook  is  the  center  of  many  summer  colonies.  Say- 
brook  Manor  lies  back  from  the  Sound  on  high  land,  a  region  of 
residential  parks.  Saybrook  Park,  on  the  Connecticut,  is  a 


R.  2  §  i.     NEW  HAVEN  TO  NEW  LONDON  157 

center  of  motor  boating.  Saybrook  Heights  overlooks  the 
Cove,  famous  as  a  fishing  ground.  The  Connecticut  river 
shad  industry  furnishes  a  livelihood  for  many  here.  The  fish 
are  taken  as  far  up  the  river  as  Middletown  and  shipped  to  all 
parts  of  the  country. 

It  is  worth  while  to  make  a  circuit  by  excellent  roads  to  Say- 
brook  Point  around  South  Cove  back  to  Old  Saybrook.  Be- 
side the  road  leading  to  the  Point,  on  the  site  of  the  first  wind- 
mill which  ground  grist,  lies  the  original  millstone,  said  to 
have  been  brought  over  from  Holland. 

Saybrook  Point,  facing  the  harbor  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  was  in  days  of  the  West  India  trade  a  place  of  swarm- 
ing wharves.  Here  is  the  picturesque  Black  Horse  Tavern  in 
spite  of  its  200  years,  stanch  in  hand-hewn  beams,  burnt 
oystershell  plaster,  and  chimney  of  English  bricks. 

A  granite  boulder  marks  the  site  of  the  Saybrook  parsonage 
where  the  assembled  ministers  of  the  region  met  in  1701  and 
founded  the  college  since  known  as  Yale.  Here  the  first 
solemn  Commencements  were  held  with  simple  theological 
ceremony. 

From  the  Point  the  State  Road  crosses  the  mouth  of  South 
Cove  on  a  half-mile  long  spile  bridge.  Lynde's  Point,  at  the 
river's  mouth,  has  a  number  of  attractive  summer  cottages. 
Timothy  D wight  more  than  a  century  ago  found  "Lynde's 
Point  an  estate  of  great  value,  belonging  to  a  gentleman  of 
that  name.  The  surface  is  beautiful,  and  the  soil  rich.  It  is 
also  nearly  surrounded  by  water,  and  therefore  freed  from  the 
expense  of  an  artificial  enclosure.  .  .  .  Very  few  landed  estates 
in  this  country  are  equally  productive,  or  equally  pleasing  to 
the  eye."  At  the  extreme  point  of  land  is  the  tall,  hexagonal 
white  lighthouse,  and,  beyond,  the  government  jetties  keep  the 
channel  open.  Just  to  the  east  lies  Fenwick  with  many  charm- 
ing summer  residences  and  shaded  streets.  At  Cornfield 
Point  is  a  magnificent  estate  which  has  several  times  been 
considered  for  the  summer  'White  House.'  Off  shore  is  the 
Cornfield  Point  lightship.  From  here  we  make  a  circuit  due 
north  two  miles  to  Saybrook. 

Saybrook  derived  its  name  from  Lord  Saye  and  Sele  and  Lord 
Brooke,  leading  stockholders  of  the  company  which  also  included 
Hampden  and  Pym.  The  King's  grant  to  the  Earl  of  Warwick  was 
purchased  to  found  a  Puritan  Colony  and  refuge  in  America.  The 
generous  terms  of  His  Majesty's  charter  gave  them  the  territory  "Lying 
west  from  Narragansett  River,  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles  on  the 
seacoast,  and  from  hence  in  latitude  and  breadth  aforesaid  to  the 
South  Sea." 

In  1635  John  Winthrop,  son  of  Massachusetts'  famous  Governor, 
was  deputed  to  build  a  fort  at  Saybrook  Point.  Lieutenant  Lion 
Gardner,  a  skilled  English  engineer,  was  sent  over  by  the  titled  pro- 
prietors to  take  charge  of  the  laying  out  of  the  town  and  the  building 


158  OLD   SAYBROOK— OLD    LYME 

of  the  fort,  the  site  of  which  can  still  be  distinguished  on  a  little  emi- 
nence commanding  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  palisade  was  built 
across  the  neck  of  land,  and  between  it  and  the  fort,  house  lots  were 
assigned  to  those  "gentlemen  of  distinction  and  figure"  who  were  ex- 
pected to  come  out.  Macaulay  gives  this  account  of  how  Cromwell 
and  Hampden  actually  embarked  but  were  prevented  from  sailing: 

"Hampden  determined  to  leave  England.  Beyond  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  a  few  of  the  persecuted  Puritans  had  formed  in  the  wilderness 
of  the  Connecticut  a  settlement.  .  .  .  Lord  Saye  and  Lord  Brooke  were 
the  original  projectors  of  this  scheme  of  emigration.  Hampden  had 
been  early  consulted  respecting  it.  ...  He  was  accompanied  by  his 
kinsman,  Oliver  Cromwell,  over  whom  he  possessed  great  influence.  .  .  . 
The  cousins  took  their  passage  on  a  vessel  which  lay  in  the  Thames, 
and  which  was  bound  for  North  America.  They  were  actually  on 
board  when  an  order  of  council  appeared,  by  which  the  ship  was  pro- 
hibited from  sailing.  .  .  .  Hampden  and  Cromwell  remained;  and  with 
them  remained  the  Evil  Genius  of  the  house  of  Stuart." 

In  1639  Gardner,  discouraged  with  conditions,  moved  to  the  island 
east  of  Long  Island  which  has  since  borne  his  name.  The  same  year 
Colonel  Fenwick,  accompanied  by  his  wife,  Lady  Fenwick,  was  sent 
out  from  England  as  governor  of  the  Plantation.  Lady  Fenwick 
died  here  five  years  after  and  was  buried  a  few  yards  southwest  of  the 
fort  on  an  eminence  still  known  as  Tomb  Hill.  Her  tombstone,  since 
removed,  is  still  to  be  seen  in  the  Point  Cemetery.  When  the  planta- 
tion was  sold  to  the  Colony  of  Connecticut,  Fenwick  returned  to 
England  and  later  figured  in  history  as  one  of  the  judges  of  Charles  I. 

The  fort  long  stood  guard  at  the  river's  mouth.  It  successfully  re- 
sisted attacks  of  the  Dutch,  and  round  it  the  waves  of  Pequot  and 
Narragansett  warfare  surged  through  half  a  century.  Moving  tales 
of  siege,  ambush,  captivity,  and  torture  are  told  of  events  about  it. 
Through  Colonial  times  the  fort  continued  to  command  the  important 
river  navigation.  It  closed  the  river  to  the  Dutch  in  1675  and  pre- 
vented the  fleet  of  Sir  Edmund  Andros  from  entering.  A  toll  was 
levied  on  all  vessels  entering  the  river,  which  Springfield  vessels  re- 
fused to  pay.  The  Bay  Colony  retaliated  by  levying  a  heavy  toll  on 
all  Connecticut  vessels  entering  Boston  Harbor  until  this  brought 
about  reciprocity. 

The  collegiate  school  of  Connecticut  which  fifteen  years  after  its 
organization  received  the  name  of  Yale  College  continued  here  more 
or  less  intermittently  until  1716.  Up  to  this  time  most  of  the  Com- 
mencements were  here,  though  until  1708  the  teaching  was  largely  at 
Killingworth.  The  home  of  the  , future  Yale  College  during  this 
period  was  a  long,  low,  one-story  structure  between  the  fort  and  the 
palisade.  The  removal  of  the  College  was  indignantly  resisted  by  the 
people  of  Saybrook,  who  continued  to  hold  the  library.  After  the 
first  Commencement  at  New  Haven  the  aid  of  the  Governor  was  in- 
voked and  the  sheriff  sent  with  a  warrant  to  seize  the  books.  Not 
only  did  he  find  the  house  where  the  books  were  kept  barred,  and  meet 
with  resistance,  but  when  they  had  been  loaded  in  carts  the  bridges 
were  broken  down  and  other  obstacles  raised,  so  that  when  the  remnant 
of  the  library  reached  New  Haven  250  of  the  books  were  missing. 
Something  of  the  conditions  of  the  roads  and  travel  at  this  time  are  re- 
flected by  Madame  Knight's  account  of  her  horseback  journey  from 
Boston  to  New  York  in  1704.  She  writes: 

"Wee  advanced  on  the  town  of  Seabrook.  The  Rodes  all  along  this 
way  are  very  bad.  Incumbered  with  Rocks  and  mountainos  passages, 
which  were  very  disagreeable  to  my  tired  carcass.  In  going  over  a 
Bridge,  Under  which  the  River  Run  very  swift,  my  hors  stumbled,  and 
very  narrowly  'scaped  falling  over  into  the  water;  which  extremely 


R.  2  §  i.  NEW  HAVEN  TO  NEW  LONDON  159 

frightened  me.  But  through  God's  goodness  I  met  with  no  harm, 
and  mounting  agen,  in  about  half  a  miles  Rideing  came  to  an  ordinary, 
was  well  entertained  by  a  woman  of  about  seventy  and  advantage, 
but  of  as  sound  Intellectuals  as  one  of  seventeen." 

Up  to  1707  there  were  none  but  Congregational  churches,  which  all 
taxpayers  supported.  Later,  as  other  churches  were  established,  it 
became  possible  to  'sign  off'  with  the  consent  of  the  town  govern- 
ment if  one  belonged  to  another  approved  church.  Presbyterians, 
however,  were  not  permitted  this  freedom.  They  must  support  the 
Congregational  church  as  well  as  their  own.  On  one  occasion  when 
the  town  clerk  refused  to  draw  up  such  a  paper  for  a  citizen  whose 
taxable  value  was  considerable,  the  citizen  drew  the  document  him- 
self, which  read  with  a  touch  of  sarcasm:  "I  hereby  renounce  the 
Christian  religion  that  I  may  join  the  Episcopal  Church." 

From  the  center  of  Old  Saybrook  the  State  Road  turns  left 
at  the  fountain,  continues  on  the  main  street,  and  half  a  mile 
beyond  turns  right  at  the  fork.  We  cross  the  broad  mouth  of 
the  Connecticut  by  a  steel  toll  bridge  (35-50  cts.),  1800  ft  long, 
built  by  the  State.  The  extended  view  includes  Calves  Island, 
Saybrook  Light,  Tautummahead,  a  summer  colony  of  New 
Yorkers  on  the  east  bank,  and  Saybrook  Park  on  the  west. 
To  the  right  of  the  State  Road  and  its  red  markers  is  the 
greater  part  of  the  beautiful  village  of 

34.5     OLDLYME.     Pop  (twp)  1181.    New  London  Co.    Settled  1645. 

Old  Lyme  is  an  ancient  and  prosperous  village,  beautifully 
situated  opposite  the  old  town  of  Saybrook  on  higher  land, 
whence  came  the  first  settlers.  It  has  always  remained  a  resi- 
dential town  of  wealth  and  refinement,  and  perhaps  no  town 
in  the  State  has  retained  more  of  its  oldtime  character.  Some 
one  has  indicted  this  region  in  the  following  terms:  "Charm- 
ing old  Lyme,  mother  of  lawyers,  judges,  statesmen,  diplomats, 
and  multi-millionaire  financiers." 

The  varied  attractions  of  seaside  and  inland  scenery,  the 
Connecticut  river,  a  good  bathing  beach  on  the  Sound, 
charming  lakes,  wooded  drives,  and  walks  have  made  it  the 
delight  of  artists,  so  that  it  is  the  home  of  an  artist  colony 
and  the  Lyme  Art  School,  which  has  its  headquarters  in  the 
Boxwood  Manor  School.  Henry  W.  Ranger  was  the  pioneer 
of  the  artist  colony  (1899);  later  came  Louis  Paul  Dessar, 
Frank  Du  Mond,  Childe  Hassam,  and  others.  The  September 
art  exhibitions  in  the  Memorial  Library  are  notable.  Before 
he  came  to  the  White  House,  President  Wilson  spent  three 
summers  in  Lyme. 

From  the  Connecticut  bridge,  following  the  red  markers, 
we  reach  the  beautiful  meeting  house,  a  replica  completed  in 
1910  of  the  old  church  built  in  1817  in  the  style  of  Sir  Christo- 
pher Wren  on  the  site  of  the  original  meeting  house  of  1668. 
The  main  route  forks  left  with  red  markers  (p  162). 


l6o  OLD   LYME 

Detour  by  the  Shore  Route  through  Niantic  to  New  London. 

From  Old  Lyme  Church  the  road  runs  to  the  right,  following 
the  windings  of  the  marshy  shore  to  Black  Hall  (3.0),  for  six 
generations  the  seat  of  the  famous  Griswold  family,  and  one  of 
the  best  examples  in  the  country  of  a  family  estate  kept  up  in 
the  fashion  of  an  old  English  manor. 

Matthew  Griswold  received  a  grant  here  from  George  Fenwick  in 
1645,  and  was  the  first  settler  in  what  was  then  East  Saybropk  in  1667. 
He  himself  became  Governor  of  the  State  as  did  many  of  his  descend- 
ants. Some  interesting  stories  of  his  courtship  survive.  He  courted 
a  young  woman  in  Durham  who  had  another  string  to  her  bow, — the 
town  physician,  whom  she  rather  preferred, — but  was  unwilling  to 
loose  the  first  string  until  she  was  sure  of  the  other.  One  day  Matthew 
brought  matters  to  a  head  by  demanding  an  immediate  reply  to  his 
oft  repeated  proposal.  Again  he  got  the  answer  that  she  would  like  a 
little  more  time,  to  which  he  replied,  "Madame,  I  will  give  you  a  life- 
time." It  is  said  she  died  a  spinster. 

His  experience  with  his  cousin,  Ursula  Wolcott,  a  guest  at  Black 
Hall,  with  whom  he  became  smitten,  was  quite  different.  She  loved 
Matthew  and  suspected  that  he  loved  her.  One  day,  meeting  on  the 
stairs,  she  asked,  "What  did  you  say,  Cousin  Matthew?"  "I  did 
not  say  anything,"  he  replied.  Several  times  the  question  and  reply 
were  repeated,  until  one  day  to  his  customary  reply  Ursula  added 
tartly,  "It  is  time  you  did."  So  she  became  Mrs.  Griswold  and  dis- 
pensed hospitality  at  Black  Hall.  Her  eight  spirited  daughters, 
known  as  the  'Black  Hall  Boys,'  achieved  some  notoriety  in  that  con- 
servative age,  for  they  seem  to  have  been  the  prototypes  of  the  modern 
athletic  girl. 

The  shore  from  Black  Hall  is  a  succession  of  summer  re- 
sorts,—Howard  Beach,  Brighton-by-the-Sea,  Hawkes  Nest, 
Sound  View,  Hatchetts  Point,  and  Giants  Neck,  the  latter  the 
seat  of  the  younger  or  New  York  branch  of  the  Griswolds. 

Just  before  crossing  Four-Mile  River  Bridge  is  the  birth- 
place of  Chief  Justice  Morrison  Waite,  and  at  Maple  Wait  a 
famous  well  located  by  Benjamin  Franklin.  From  the  sharp 
rise  of  Dorr  Hill  the  road  descends  into  Bride  Brook  valley, 
an  early  boundary  between  Lyme  and  New  London. 

The  marsh  lands  were  valued  for  their  hay  crop,  and  there  was  a 
valuable  strip  of  them  in  dispute  as  to  which  town  they  belonged. 
Not  worthy  of  a  law  suit,  it  was  decided  to  "leave  it  to  the  Lord," 
and  the  method  whereby  the  Lord  was  to  announce  his  decision  was 
in  giving  the  victory  to  the  two  champions  that  fought  for  each  town. 
The  champions  of  Lyme  were  William  Ely  and  Matthew  Griswold, 
not  "  What-did-you-say-Cousin-Matthew,"  but  another.  The  Lord 
decided  it  in  favor  of  Lyme,  and  the  boundary  has  ever  since  been  at 
the  Niantic  river. 

The  name  of  Bride  Brook  is  accounted  for  by  a  romantic  story. 
Two  lovers  would  wed,  but  no  minister  was  available.  It  was  not 
lawful  for  them  to  go  to  New  London  nor  for  the  New  London  magis- 
trate, John  Winthrop,  to  marry  them  in  Lyme,  so  the  lovers  stood  on 
one  side  of  the  stream,  the  Governor  on  the  other,  and  the  matrimonial 
knot  was  tied  across  the  running  water. 

The  Thomas  Lee  House  beyond  the  brook  was  built  in  1680 


R.  2  §  I.  NEW  HAVEN  TO  NEW  LONDON  161 

and  recently  purchased  by  the  local  historical  society  for  preser- 
vation. The  resident  hostess,  at  the  Andrew  Griswold  place 
nearly  opposite,  opens  the  house  to  visitors  and  serves  tea  if 
desired.  With  its  heavy  timbers,  ancient  paneling,  and  period 
furniture  it  is  a  rare  picture  of  the  earliest  Colonial  days. 

Among  the  many  romances  clustering  about  this  venerable  house  is 
that  of  the  wooing  of  Betty  Lee  by  Captain  Reynold  Marvin.  Betty's 
father  was  opposed  to  the  match,  but  one  day  when  Betty  was  en- 
gaged as  was  Nausicaa  on  the  appearance  of  Ulysses  the  eccentric 
militia  captain  rode  up,  reigned  in  his  horse,  and  without  preface  an- 
nounced, "Betty,  the  Lord  has  commanded  me  to  marry  you." 
Whereupon  Betty  looked  modestly  down  and  said,  "The  Lord's 
will  be  done."  Marvin  published  the  banns  by  posting  on  the  church 
door  the  following  verse: 

"Reynold  Marvin  and  Betty  Lee 

Do  intend  to  marry, 
And  though  her  dad  op-pos-ed  be, 

They  can  no  longer  tarry." 

They  were  married,  lived  happily,  and  brought  up  a  large  family. 
This  same  Marvin  continued  to  write  verse,  as  witness  this  epitaph 
which  he  wrote  for  his  father's  tombstone: 

"This  Deacon,  aged  sixty-eight, 

Is  freed  on  earth  from  sarvin. 
May  for  a  crown  no  longer  wait 
Lyme's  Captain  Reynold  Marvin." 

Just  beyond  the  Lee  house  is  the  Little  Boston  School, 
famous  of  yore  as  a  seat  of  learning.  Here  came  young  men 
who  had  made  deep  sea  voyages  as  mates  of  vessels  to  spend 
the  winter  term  studying  navigation  and  surveying  and  the 
higher  mathematics  under  a  famous  old  master,  Samuel  Corn- 
stock,  whose  son,  Dr.  John  Comstock,  wrote  the  first  text- 
book on  physics  in  this  country. 

At  the  small  Pataguanset  river  a  road  runs  south  to  Black 
Point,  now  the  seat  of  three  large  summer  colonies,  once  the 
reservation  of  the  Niantic  Indians,  who  originally  owned  all 
the  territory  from  the  Connecticut  river  to  the  Thames.  Be- 
tween Black  Point  and  Millstone  Point  lies  Niantic  Bay.  In 
the  angle  formed  by  the  river  and  bay  lies  Niantic  Plain, 
once  known  as  the  Soldier's  Bounty,  because  it  was  bestowed 
on  one  of  Captain  Mason's  men  for  his  services  in  the  Pequot 
War.  The  upper  part  of  this  plain,  owned  by  the  State  as  a 
camp  ground  for  its  militia,  is  considered  one  of  the  best  mili- 
tary fields  in  the  country.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Niantic  river 
is  the  village  of  Niantic  (10.0). 

Across  the  Niantic  river  the  road  runs  over  a  sandy  bar  and 
a  bridge,  still  called  the  Rope  Ferry  from  the  ancient  manner 
of  crossing,  into  the  town  of  Waterford  (13.0),  on  Jordan 
Creek.  Goshen  Point  to  the  south  was  formerly  the  seat  of 
the  Rogerene  Quakers.  By  way  of  Bank  St.  it  enters  the 
center  of  NEW  LONDON  (17.0). 


162  OLD   LYME— NEW    LONDON 

From  Old  Lyme  the  shorter  Trunk  Line  State  Road,  with 
the  red  markers,  follows  the  trolley  north  through  historic 
Lyme  Street.  It  runs  inland  via  Laysville  and  East  Lyme 
along  the  course  of  the  Old  Post  Road,  which  still  has  some  of 
the  old  milestones  set  when  Benjamin  Franklin,  as  Postmaster- 
general  of  the  Colonies,  so  much  improved  the  post  roads. 

The  Street,  or  Olde  Lyme  Street,  as  the  main  street  of  the  vil- 
lage is  called,  with  its  fine  old  historical  houses  under  cathedral 
arches  of  ancient  elms,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  rural  streets 
in  New  England  or  elsewhere.  Just  beyond  the  church  is  the 
Ludington  place,  once  the  home  of  Samuel  Parsons  Holden. 
Nearby  is  the  McCurdy  mansion,  built  in  1730,  where  both 
Washington  and  Lafayette  have  been  entertained.  A  mile 
beyond  the  church,  where  the  elms  give  place  to  maples,  is  the 
William  Noyes  House  (1818),  with  a  fine  portico,  the  residence 
of  Miss  Florence  Griswold,  literally  a  museum  of  visiting 
artists  who  have  decorated  its  interior  even  to  the  door 
panels.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  homes  of  many  artists  of  the 
Lyme  colony.  A  little  beyond  is  the  residence  of  Judge  Walter 
Chadwick  Noyes,  once  the  home  of  Rev.  Moses  Noyes,  the 
first  minister  in  Lyme.  Will  Howe  Foote  has  a  white  house 
nearby  with  grounds  sloping  down  to  the  Lieutenant  river. 
Harry  Hoffman  has  an  attractive  hilltop  house. 

Beyond  Laysville  (37.7)  is  Rogers  Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water  surrounded  by  wooded  hills.  On  the  high  ground  over- 
looking the  lake  are  many  estates  and  summer  residences. 
For  several  miles  the  road  runs  through  a  wooded,  uninhabited 
country,  where  Yale  University  has  a  large  tract  used  as  a 
school  of  surveying.  The  Morton  F.  Plant  State  Game  Pre- 
serve (40.0)  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  road,  which  then  skirts  the 
lower  end  of  Pataguanset  Lake.  A  side  road  and  branch  trolley 
turns  south  to  Niantic. 

4S.S    FLANDERS    VILLAGE  (East  Lyme  twp). 

This  was  probably  so  called  because  it  was  an  early  cloth- 
weaving  center.  Here  are  several  eighteenth  century  houses, 
one  of  them  being  the  Caulkins  Tavern,  where  Washington 
and  Lafayette  both  have  stopped  for  refreshments.  Eastward 
from  this  point  the  road  crosses  the  Niantic  river,  a  tidal  estu- 
ary whose  shores  are  thickly  set  with  summer  colonies.  At  the 
head  of  the  river  is  Golden  Spur  Park,  a  summer  colony  with 
a  casino,  boating,  and  fishing  attractions.  The  Silver  Buckle  is 
an  ancient  tavern  here.  The  Oswegatchie  House  at  Sandy 
Point  farther  down  the  river  is  a  great  social  center. 

From  the  Niantic  river  the  road  runs  over  Fog  Plain  to 
New  London,  entering  on  Bank  St. 


R.  2  §  I.    NEW  HAVEN  TO  NEW  LONDON  163 


52.5     NEW  LONDON.     Pop  19,659.      One  of  the  County -seats  of 
New   London    County,   the   other   being   Norwich.     Settled 
1646.      Indian    name    Nameaug.      Port    of    Entry.     Mfg. 
silks,  machinery,  machine  tools,  cotton  gins,  printing  presses, 
bed   comfortables,  brass  and  copper  tubing;    shipbuilding. 
Value  of  Product  (1909),  $4,483,000.    Steamboats  to   Nor- 
wich, New  York,  Sag  Harbor,  and  Greenport  daily;   Block 
Island,   Fisher's  Island,   Watch   Hill,  and  shore  resorts  in 
summer.    Southern  terminus  of  Grand  Trunk  R.R. 
New  London,  three  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Thames, 
has  a  wonderful  situation  on  hills  rising  from  the  harbor.    The 
Thames  river,  really  an  estuary  and  a  beautiful  example  of  a 
drowned  river  valley,  is  tidal  and  navigable  to  Norwich,  four- 
teen miles  above.     The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  sheltered  on 
the  coast,  with  water  for  vessels  of   twenty-five  foot  draft. 
Contemplated  improvements  will  enable  vessels  of  thirty-five 
foot  draft  to  be  accommodated.     The  Connecticut  Legislature 
has   appropriated   a  million   dollars   for   a   State-owned  pier, 
rapidly  approaching  completion.     On  account  of  its  strategic 
situation,  New  London  is  the  headquarters  of  the  U.S.  Artillery 
District  embracing  the  forts  which  command  the  eastern  en- 
trance of  Long  Island  Sound.     Two  miles  above  the  bridge  is  a 
U.S.  Naval  Station  occupying  about  eighty  acres,  now  used  as 
a  base  for  submarines.     The  Harvard-Yale  boat  race  the  last 
of  June  attracts  thousands  of  visitors.      The  course  extends 
four  miles  upstream  above  the  railroad  bridge.     The  adjoining 
shore  resorts  make  it  a  vacation  center  and  in  summer  the 
beautiful  harbor  is  filled  with  yachts.     Frequent  ferry  service 
connects  Fisher's  Island,  a  summer  suburb  and  site  of  Fort 
Wright. 

On  Bank  St.  to  the  left  entering  the  town  is  the  old  Colonial 
Shaw  mansion,  built  in  1756  by  the  labor  of  Acadian  peasant 
exiles.  In  the -burning  of  the  town  by  the  British  this  house  was 
saved  by  tapping  a  pipe  of  vinegar  in  the  garret.  "In  the 
stress  of  wartimes,  Mistress  Lucretia  Shaw  filled  her  home  with 
cots  for  our  soldiers."  In  1907  it  was  purchased  by  the  New 
London  County  Historical  Society  for  its  permanent  home. 
Within  there  is  an  exhibition  of  historical  relics  (25  cts;  free 
Wed.  aft.).  The  White  Room  contains  the  mahogany  four- 
poster  in  which  Washington  slept. 

The  center  of  civic  life  is  the  Parade  at  the  foot  of  State  St., 
with  a  parklet  and  a  Soldiers  and  Sailors'  Monument.  On 
Main  St.,  about  a  mile  from  the  Parade,  by  the  side  of  a  rocky 
glen  at  the  head  of  Winthrop  Cove  where  Briggs  Brook  comes 
tumbling  down,  is  the  Old  Town  Mill,  with  its  great  over- 
shot wheel  still  in  use;  one  of  the  most  picturesque  antiquities 
in  Connecticut.  The  original  was  built  in  1650  by  John 
Winthrop  the  younger,  founder  of  the  town,  who  held  the  ex- 


1 64  NEW   LONDON 

elusive  privilege  of  grinding  corn  for  the  colony.     Necessary 
repairs  from  time  to  time  have  not  changed  its  appearance. 

On  Meeting  House  Hill  in  the  northwest  part  of  the  city  is 
"Ye  Ancientiest  Buring  Ground,"  laid  out  as  early  as  1645 
and  restored  in  1855.  An  old  fractured  slab  of  red  sandstone 
bears  this  inscription:  "An  epitaph  on  Captaine  Richard 
Lord,  deceased  May  17,  1662,  Aetatis  svae  51. 

"...  Bright  starre  of  ovr  chivallrie  lies  here 
To  the  state  a  covnsellorr  fvll  deare 
And  to  ye  trvth  a  friend  of  sweete  content 
To  Hartford  towne  a  silver  ornament 
Who  can  deny  to  poore  he  was  reliefe 
And  in  composing  paroxyies  he  was  chiefe 
To  Marchantes  as  a  patterne  he  might  stand 
Adventring  dangers  new  by  sea  and  land." 
A  stone  marks  the  grave  of  Miss  Sarah  Knight  who  in  later  life  kept 

an  inn   near   Norwich.     Many  inscriptions  record   pathetic  memories 

of  the  old  whaling  days  and  those  lost  at  sea. 

In  a  corner  of  the  burying  ground,  where  it  was  moved  in 
1901,  there  now  stands  the  little  old  red  school  house  where 
Nathan  Hale  taught  before  he  served  his  country  as  a  spy. 
It  is  used  as  a  museum  for  Revolutionary  relics,  open  to  the 
public  two  afternoons  a  week  during  the  summer  months. 

In  the  chancel  of  St.  James'  Episcopal  Church  at  the  corner 
of  Federal  St.  are  "the  ashes  of  Samuel  Seabury,  the  first 
Anglican  bishop  in  the  United  States."  At  the  outbreak  of 
the  Revolution  he  remained  loyal  to  the  crown,  and  protesting 
his  "abhorrence  of  all  unlawful  congresses  and  committees," 
was  promptly  jailed.  At  the  head  of  State  St.  stands  the  old 
Court  House,  a  wooden  building  of  pleasing  architecture 
bearing  upon  its  pediment  the  date  1784.  Opposite  is  the 
Public  Library,  built  in  1890  of  Milford  granite  and  brown- 
stone,  from  the  design  of  H.  H.  Richardson.  On  Jay  St.  is  the 
old  Huguenot  house,  covered  with  Virginia  creeper,  with  a 
quaint  old  gambrel  roof.  Near  it  on  Hempstead  St.  is  the 
venerable  Hempstead  home.  Built  in  1678,  it  was  fortified  to 
resist  Indian  attacks. 

The  Connecticut  College  for  Women,  chartered  in  1911 
and  opened  in  1915,  occupies  an  elevated  tract  of  340  acres  on 
the  northern  limits  of  the  town  bordering  the  Thames  and 
overlooking  the  Sound.  The  townspeople  raised  by  sub- 
scription $135,000.  Morton  F.  Plant  of  Groton  has  given  a 
million  dollars  for  endowment,  and  additional  funds  for  Plant 
House  and  Blackstone  House,  dormitories  in  the  Tudor  style. 

The  obsolete  Fort  Trumbull,  of  massive  masonry,  is  now 
the  U.S.  Revenue-Cutter  Service  School  of  Instruction.  Just 
below  is  Pequot  Point  with  a  casino  and  the  attractions  of 
good  fishing  and  bathing.  Many  of  the  residents  of  the  Pequot 


R.  2  §  i.  NEW  HAVEN  TO  NEW  LONDON  165 

Colony  spend  the  whole  year  there  and  even  the  summer 
visitors  stay  until  late  in  the  fall. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  on  the  extremity  of  Fisher's 
Island,  is  the  Race  Rock  lighthouse,  built  by  the  late  F.  Hop- 
kinson  Smith.  The  lighthouse  and  the  region  round  about 
form  the  principal  scene  for  his  novel  "Caleb  West."  The 
original  of  Captain  Joe  in  this  story  was  Thomas  A.  Scott, 
who  died  in  1907.  He  attained  fame  and  wealth  through  the 
successful  handling  of  his  wrecking  apparatus,  which  is  always 
ready  to  succor  ships  aground  and  in  distress.  At  the  present 
time  the  T.  A.  Scott  Company  has  a  fleet  of  about  fifty  tug  boats 
and  lighters,  and  has  in  its  employ  several  hundred  men.  It 
takes  large  contracts  for  bridge  and  construction  work  all 
along  the  Atlantic  coast.  It  is  the  contractor  for  $250,000 
of  work  on  the  State  pier  now  building.  The  Thames  Tow 
Boat  Company,  the  first  to  tow  a  barge  east  of  Cape  Cod,  has 
been  in  business  here  since  1865.  It  has  one  of  the  largest 
ship  railways  in  New  England. 

New  London  has  had  many  vicissitudes  in  her  history. 
After  a  long  period  of  sleepiness  the  town  has  in  recent 
years  had  an  industrial  awakening.  Among  the  older  manu- 
facturers are  the  Brainerd  &  Armstrong  Company,  established 
in  1867,  and  still  under  the  original  management.  Their  three 
large  plants  employ  a  thousand  operatives  and  produce  wash 
silks,  embroidery  silks,  and  satin  linings.  Palmer  Brothers  ship 
bed  comfortables  all  over  the  world.  The  Brown  Cotton  Gin 
Company  builds  cotton  machinery  and  Babcock  Printing 
Presses  come  from  here. 

On  State  St.,  the  Mohican  Hotel  was  built  by  Frank  Munsey 
for  his  publishing  business,  but  he  has  since  transformed  it 
into  an  up-to-date  hotel. 

New  London,  including  Groton,  was  settled  in  1645  by  John  Win- 
throp  the  younger,  son  of  Governor  Winthrop  of  Massachusetts,  under 
the  Indian  name  of  Nameaug,  or  Pequot  Harbor.  In  1658  the  Con- 
necticut Assembly  resolved:  "Whereas  this  court  considering  .  .  .  that 
they  might  thereby  leave  to  posterity  the  memory  of  that  renowned  city 
of  London,  from  whence  we  had  our  transportation,  have  thought  fit, 
in  honor  of  that  famous  city,  to  call  the  said  Plantation,  New  London." 
The  Mohegan  river  was  at  the  same  time  renamed  the  Thames. 

New  Londoners  were  mariners  from  the  first,  not  mere  fishermen, 
and  shipbuilding  was  carried  on  here  from  the  middle  of  the  seven- 
teenth century.  In  the  palmy  days  of  the  West  India  trade,  from 
1720  till  the  Revolution,  New  London  was  a  bustling  seaport,  export- 
ing the  local  products  of  the  country  round  about,  corn,  hams,  pork, 
butter,  and  cheese,  and  importing  the  sugar,  molasses,  and  rum  of  the 
West  Indies.  With  the  closing  of  the  Colonial  Era  the  West  India 
traffic  passed. 

In  the  Revolution  this  was  the  chief  port  of  the  Connecticut  navy  of 
twenty-six  vessels  and  many  privateers,  and  New  London  ware- 
houses were  packed  with  spoils  from  British  prizes.  The  American 


1 66  NEW    LONDON— GROTON 


fleet  which  raided  the  Bahamas  was  outfitted  here,  and  here  were 
brought  their  prisoners  and  plunder.  In  retaliation,  on  Sept.  5,  1781, 
the  British  fleet  appeared  off  the  town  with  a  large  force  of  troops  in 
command  of  the  renegade,  Benedict  Arnold.  On  the  rock  where  the 
British  landed  now  stands  the  "stone  castle,"  the  residence  of  former 
Governor  Thomas  M.  Waller.  Forts  Trumbull  and  Griswold  had 
been  hastily  prepared  under  the  command  of  Colonel  William  Led- 
yard.  Fort  Trumbull  was  taken  with  a  rush,  and  Ledyard  gathered 
his  men  at  Fort  Griswold  across  the  river.  Arnold's  part  in  this  was 
especially  atrocious,  as  he  was  born  only  thirteen  miles  from  here  in 
Norwich.  He  had  won  distinction  at  Quebec,  Plattsburg,  and  Sara- 
toga, and  the  eulogy  of  Washington.  From  the  heights  of  Meeting 
House  Hill  he  watched  the  destruction  of  the  houses  of  his  boyhood 
acquaintance  and  the  attack  on  Fort  Griswold  on  the  Groton  Heights. 
A  contemporary  native,  one  Zab.  Rogers,  writing  a  friend  the  day  after 
the  sack,  says:  "I  have  the  Unhappiness  to  acquaint  you,  Genl. 
Arnold  with  about  1500  or  2000  Men  Landed  Here  Yesterday  Morn- 
ing &  have  Burnt  this  Town  from  the  Court  House  to  Nathl.  Shaw 
House  which  was  Sav'd  &  from  Giles  Mumfords  House  to  Capt. 
Richards  store.  .  .  .  They  have  Burnt  Your  House  &  All  Your  Stores 
at  Groton  &  Most  of  the  Houses  on  the  Bank." 

The  trade  of  the  port  was  almost  destroyed  by  the  Revolution  and 
an  epidemic  of  yellow  fever  in  1798  further  reduced  the  population. 
The  whaling  days  brought  a  revival,  and  again  the  harbor  and  the 
wharves  swarmed  with  vessels  unloading  or  outloading.  In  the  early 
forties  of  the  nineteenth  century,  when  the  industry  was  at  its  prime, 
150  whalers  hailed  from  New  London,  and  an  annual  revenue  of  $2,000,- 
ooo  poured  into  the  coffers  of  the  town.  Seventy-one  ships  and  barks, 
one  brig,  and  six  schooners  were  owned  here  at  that  time,  and  3000 
men  were  employed.  New  London  whalers  gathered  their  harvests 
among  the  islands  of  the  Pacific,  in  the  Arctic,  and  south  of  Good  Hope. 


R.  2  §  2.     New  London  to   Providence.  70.0  m. 

(ALTERNATE  ROUTES  via  NORWICH,  NOOSENECK  HILL,  WATCH 

HILL,  and  NARRAGANSETT  PIER.) 

Via  STONINGTON,  WESTERLY,  and  WICKFORD. 

From  New  London  to  Providence  and  Boston  there  are 
several  alternatives  to  the  Shore  Road,  all  over  modern  State 
Highways.  (See  Conn,  and  R.I.  maps.) 

Note.  Route  12,  with  blue  markers,  leads  north,  up  the 
valley  of  the  Thames  to  Norwich  (13.0),  thence  up  the  valley 
of  the  Quinebaug  to  Central  Village.  Here  leaving  R.  12, 
a  State  Road,  marked  by  red  bands  to  the  Rhode  Island  line, 
leads  eastward,  via  Wauregan,  Coventry,  and  Washington. 
From  Washington  a  State  Road  leads  southward  to  Westerly. 
The  group  of  mill  villages  making  up  the  Rhode  Island 
townships  of  Coventry  and  West  Warwick  are  known  as  the 
'Valley  Villages'  and  contain  a  combined  population  of  about 
22,000,  with  a  sparsely  settled  region  to  the  north  and  south. 
From  Washington  the  route  runs  through  the  busy  but  un- 
attractive villages  of  Pawtuxet  valley,  over  Sockanosset  Hill, 


R.  2  §  2.    NEW  LONDON  TO  PROVIDENCE  167 

past  the  Rhode  Island  "State  Institution"  whence  the  view 
is  worthy  of  appreciation,  and  by  way  of  Reservoir  Ave. 
enters  Providence,  66.4  m.  from  New  London. 

The  State  Road,  marked  in  red  as  far  as  Westerly,  takes  us 
along  the  shores  of  a  broken,  hilly  country  indented  by  estu- 
aries, and  dotted  with  ponds  and  swamps,  the  scene  of  the  early 
Indian  wars.  Today  many  prosperous  industrial  towns  and 
some  of  the  most  populous  and  popular  of  the  summer  shore 
resorts  are  along  this  coast. 

The  guide  boards  from  New  London  eastward  are  frequently  mis- 
leading as  to  distances,  the  mileages  as  stated,  especially  on  the  older 
ones,  apparently  having  reference  to  the  route  via  Narragansett  Pier, 
which  for  a  number  of  years  was  the  only  continuously  built  State 
Road.  It  is  puzzling  to  the  tourist  who  is  proceeding  correctly  on 
his  way  to  be  confronted  by  a  board  that  assures  him  he  is  from  five 
to  ten  miles  farther  from  his  destination  than  he  was  at  the  previous 
stopping  place. 

Leaving  New  London  by  the  Groton  Ferry  at  the  foot  of 
State  St.,  upstream  is  the  railroad  bridge,  1423  ft  long,  from 
Winthrop  Neck  to  Groton  shore.  It  has  the  longest  double 
track  draw  (503  ft)  in  the  world,  it  is  claimed.  The  present 
bridge  will  be  utilized  for  highway  purposes  when  the  new 
R.R.  bridge  is  completed. 

"Ye  ferry  over  Great  River,  .  .  .  being  a  scow  with  both  sails  and 
oars,  was  leased  to  Gary  Latham,"  the  first  settler  on  "Groton  Bank." 
In  1705  the  rents  of  the  ferry  were  assigned  to  the  support  of  the 
grammar  school  to  pay  part  of  the  master's  "Yearly  sallery,  provided 
nevertheless,  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  town  on  Lords  days,  Thanks- 
giving days,  and  days  of  humiliation,  shall  be  ferriage  free." 

0.5  GROTON.  Pop  (twp)  6495,  (borough)  1895.  Inc.  1704.  Base 
for  U.S.  submarine  fleet.  Mfg.  marine  engines;  shipbuilding. 

This  historic  town  after  a  long  period  of  peaceful  rest  has 
of  recent  years  shared  in  the  industrial  revival  of  New  London, 
which  her  frontage  on  a  wonderful  harbor  justifies. 

On  Groton  Heights  rises  the  Monument  (134  ft),  a  granite 
shaft  built  in  part  with  the  proceeds  of  a  lottery.  A  marble 
tablet  placed  above  its  entrance  is  inscribed:  "In  Memory  of 
the  Brave  Patriots/  who  fell  in  the  massacre  of  Fort  Griswold, 
near  this  spot,/  on  the  6th  of  September,  A.D.  i78i,/  when 
the  British,  under  the  command  of  the  Traitor,/  BENEDICT 
ARNOLD,/  burnt  the  towns  of  New  London  and  Groton,  and 
spread/  desolation  and  woe  throughout  this  region." 

The  battle  ground  south  of  the  monument  has  been  pre- 
sented by  the  Federal  Government  to  the  State.  Here  was 
the  scene  of  the  fiercest  fighting  in  Connecticut  during  the 
Revolution.  The  defenders  gathered  from  the  country  round 
about,  and  when  at  night  the  firing  ceased  only  one  male 
member  of  the  old  church  was  left  alive.  The  house  at  the 


1 68  GROTON— MYSTIC 

foot  of  the  hill  is  marked  as  the  one  to  which  the  wounded 
were  carried. 

From  the  top  of  the  monument  there  is  a  splendid  view  over 
"breezy  ridges  and  sunny  valleys."  New  London  and  the 
Navy  Yard  are  to  the  west  and  north,  the  hills  of  Groton  and 
Fort  Hill  to  the  north  and  east,  and  to  the  south  the  mouth 
of  the  Thames  with  its  forts,  lighthouses,  hotels,  and  cottages. 

Under  the  shadow  of  the  monument  is  the  home  of  the  Anna 
Warner  Bailey  Chapter  D.A.R.,  an  interesting  resting  place 
filled  with  relics  of  the  past.  Just  to  the  north  stands  the 
Bill  Memorial  Library  constructed  of  Stony  Greek  granite 
trimmed  with  Maynard  red  freestone.  In  the  immediate 
neighborhood  is  the  Groton  Heights  Public  School,  also  the 
gift  of  Frederic  Bill  to  the  town. 

Detour  to  Eastern  Point  and  Poquonock.  6.0  m. 

From  the  lower  street,  or  ferry,  the  righthand  road  leading 
south  follows  the  river  to  the  junction  of  Eastern  Point  Road, 
at  the  fountain  erected  in  memory  of  Captain  William  Latham 
of  Fort  Griswold  fame,  whose  ancient  homestead  stands  on  the 
hill  opposite. 

On  the  Groton  shore  opposite  New  London  were  launched 
in  1903  and  1904  the  Northern  Pacific  steamships  "Minnesota" 
and  "Dakota,"  each  of  33,000  tons  displacement,  the  largest 
steamers  ever  built  in  America.  They  were  built  for  the  then 
promising^  Pacific  trade  with  China  and  Manchuria,  since 
wrecked  by  our  feeble  and  futile  diplomacy  and  lack  of  foreign 
policy.  The  "Dakota's"  rusting  skeleton  now  lies  on  the 
rocks  off  the  Japan  coast,  saved  from  the  humiliating  fate  of  its 
American  sister  ships  on  the  Pacific,  due  to  the  crass  ignorance, 
however  well  meaning,  of  Senator  LaFollette's  Seaman's  Bill. 
The  site  of  their  launching  is  now  occupied  by  the  rapidly 
expanding  New  London  Ship  &  Engine  Company,  who  make 
Diesel  engines  that  are  used  in  U.S.  submarines.  Here,  too, 
are  the  plants  of  the  Electric  Boat  Company  and  the  Vanadium 
Metals  Company. 

Eastern  Point  (3.0),  at  the  entrance  of  New  London  harbor, 
opposite  the  Pequot  Colony,  is  one  of  the  yachting  centers  of 
America.  The  Griswold,  one  of  the  most  luxurious  hotels  on 
the  coast,  the  frequent  visits  of  naval  officers  from  the  war- 
ships customarily  stationed  here,  the  Shenecossett  Golf  Links, 
and  the  other  usual  means  of  recreation  combine  to  make 
Eastern  Point  one  of  the  gayest  spots  in  Connecticut  during 
the  summer.  On  the  shore  to  the  east  of  the  Point  is  the  well- 
kept  estate  and  the  huge  stone  mansion  of  Morton  F.  Plant. 
The  conservatory  and  the  Italian  gardens  have  a  well-deserved 
reputation.  From  Eastern  Point  a  circuit  may  be  made  re- 


R.  2  §  2.    NEW  LONDON  TO  PROVIDENCE  169 

joining  the  direct  route  at  the  village  of  Poquonock  (6.0), 
where  the  road  turns  right,  crossing  the  Poquonock  river. 

From  Groton  the  shorter  route  follows  the  State  Road, 
marked  in  red,  direct  to  Poquonock  Bridge  (3.2).  Just  be- 
yond the  bridge  on  the  right  is  the  Town  Hall  of  Groton, 
located  in  the  geographical  center  of  the  township. 

The  road  climbs  the  long  grade  of  Fort  Hill  from  the  summit 
of  which,  at  the  second  burying  ground,  is  a  fine  view.  To  the 
southeast  lies  the  little  seaside  village  of  Noank  on  Mystic 
Harbor,  a  shipbuilding  center;  to  the  east  lie  Stonington  and 
Watch  Hill;  below  is  the  Mystic  river,  with  Fisher's  Island 
beyond;  and  to  the  west,  Groton,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Thames, 
with  the  Hotel  Griswold  and  the  Groton  monument. 

Between  the  two  burying  grounds  on  this  hill  stood  the  fort  of 
Sassacus,  sachem  of  the  Pequots.  The  main  fort,  a  few  miles  to  the 
northeast,  on  Pequot  Hill,  overlooking  the  Mystic  river,  consisted  of  a 
long  palisade  having  two  entrances,  within  which  were  the  wigwams. 
It  was  attacked  by  Captain  John  Mason  in  1637  with  ninety  men  of 
Hartford,  Windsor,  and  Wethersfield,  and  400  Indian  allies  under 
the  Sachem  Uncas.  Surprised  before  daylight,  the  wigwams  were  set 
on  fire.  The  pious  Captain  reported:  "But  God  was  above  them,  who 
laughed  his  enemies  and  the  enemies  of  His  People  to  scorn,  making 
them  as  a  firey  oven.  .  .  .  And  thus  in  little  more  than  one  hour's 
space  was  their  impregnable  Fort  with  themselves  utterly  destroyed 
to  the  number  of  600  or  700,  as  some  of  themselves  confessed.  There 
were  only  seven  taken  captive,  and  about  seven  escaped." 

Cotton  Mather,  the  celebrated  Boston  divine,  writing  contem- 
poraneously, thus  vividly  describes  the  scene:  "The  greatness  and 
violence  of  the  fire,  the  flashing  and  roaring  of  the  arms,  the  shrieks 
and  yells  of  men,  women,  and  children  within  the  Fort,  and  the  shout- 
ings of  Indians  without,  just  at  the  dawning  of  the  morning,  exhibited 
a  grand  and  awful  scene.  ...  It  was  a  fearful  sight  to  see  them  frying 
in  the  fire,  and  the  streams  of  blood  quenching  the  same,  and  horrible 
was  the  stink  and  scent  thereof;  but  the  victory  seemed  a  sweet  sacri- 
fice, and  they  gave  the  praise  thereof  to  God." 

Sassacus  from  his  camp  on  Fort  Hill,  hearing  of  the  attack,  sent 
300  of  his  warriors,  too  late  to  assist,  but  causing  the  Colonial  forces 
great  loss  in  their  retreat.  But  the  pursuit  of  the  Pequots  continued; 
one  band  half  famished  were  surrounded  in  a  swamp  in  Groton.  Of 
the  hundred  taken,  the  men  were  dispatched,  and  the  women  and 
children,  eighty  in  number,  were  distributed  as  slaves  among  the 
troops.  Of  those  taken  to  Massachusetts,  some  were  sold  in  the 
West  Indies.  (See  p  33.) 

8.0    MYSTIC  (Stonington  twp}.     New  London   Co.      Settled  1650. 
Mfg.  book-binders'   machinery,  gas   engines,  silks,  velvets, 
and  woolens,  menhaden  oil,  and  fertilizer. 
The    Mystic   river,   which   runs   through   the  village,   was 
formerly  the  boundary  line  between  the  colonies  of  Connecti- 
cut and  Massachusetts,  and  is  now  the  boundary  of  the  town- 
ships of  Groton  and  Stonington.     The  upper  reaches  of  the 
river  are  very   beautiful  with   wooded,    curving   shores   and 


170  MYSTIC— WESTERLY 

green  meadows.  The  roads  on  either  side  following  the 
curves  lead  up  a  narrow  valley  through  meadows  and  vales 
to  the  top  of  Lantern  Hill.  The  view  is  superb,  including 
Montauk  Point  to  the  south,  and  east  and  west  the  Rhode 
Island  and  Connecticut  shores.  The  mouth  of  the  Mystic 
river  is  studded  with  islands,  one  of  which,  the  Isle  of  Quish, 
is  the  scene  of  Arthur  Henry's  "An  Island  Cabin."  Fisher's 
Island  Sound  from  Ram  Island  to  Fisher's  Island  is  only  two 
miles  across,  and  through  here  the  tide  races. 

The  natural  attractions  of  the  region  have  drawn  summer 
colonies  to  Old  Mystic,  Lord's  Point,  Wamphassett,  Willow 
Point,  and  Mason's  Island,  the  southwest  corner  of  the  town. 
An  artist  colony  has  developed  here  in  recent  years,  with  an  an- 
nual exhibition  in  August,  usually  in  the  assembly  room  of  the 
Broadway  School.  On  one  of  the  rugged  cliffs  facing  the  river 
is  Fort  Rachel,  where  during  the  War  of  1812  a  force  of 
twenty  men  drove  off  a  British  ship  of  war  and  prevented  the 
capture  of  the  town.  Mystic  is  the  home  of  Packer's  Tar 
Soap  (p  800),  Lathrop's  Gasoline  Marine  Engines,  and  the 
Standard  Machinery  Company,  one  of  the  oldest  makers  of 
book-binders'  machinery. 

In  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century  Mystic  was  a  busy,  bustling 
place  of  shipbuilding  and  launched  some  of  the  finest  ships  that  ever 
rounded  the  Horn.  The  firm  of  George  Greenman  &  Co.  built  125 
sloops,  brigs,  barks,  and  clippers  for  the  Southern  and  California  trade, 
and  employed  a  hundred  calkers,  joiners,  carpenters,  and  blacksmiths. 
Another  firm,  Irons  &  Grinnell,  who  began  operations  in  1840,  built 
in  all  scores  of  vessels,  including  a  number  of  Spanish  gunboats. 

12.5  STONINGTON.  Pop  (twp)  9154,  (borough)  2083.  New  Lon- 
don Co.  Settled  1649.  Mfg.  silk,  machinery,  velvet,  and 
thread.  Steamers  to  Watch  Hill. 

Stonington,  a  quaint  old  town  of  quiet  streets,  and  a  popu- 
lar summer  resort,  is  situated  on  a  narrow  rocky  point.  The 
first  settlers  came  from  Rehoboth,  Mass.,  and  evidently  fell 
from  grace,  for  according  to  Dr.  Dwight,  who  wrote  in  1801, 
"Stonington  and  all  its  vicinity  suffers  in  religion  from  the 
nearness  of  Rhode  Island."  In  August,  1814,  the  town  was 
bombarded  for  three  days  by  a  British  fleet,  and  sixty  tons  of 
iron  were  thrown  into  it.  Iron  relics  of  1814  are  yet  to  be 
seen  about  the  town. 

Until  1815  the  chief  industry  of  Stonington  Borough  was  the  coast 
trade  and  sealing,  which  after  1830  was  superseded  by  whaling.  For 
a  time  Stonington  Borough  was  New  Bedford's  rival.  The  com- 
fortable houses  of  the  old  shipmasters,  one  or  two  shipyards  and  a 
fishing  fleet  are  all  that  remain  to  remind  us  of  those  days. 

Beyond  Stonington  the  route  passes  through  the  village  of 
Wequetequock  River  and  the  salt  marshes  bearing  round  the 
foot  of  Hinckley  Hill,  on  the  left  just  outside  Westerly.  The 


R.  2  §  2.    NEW  LONDON  TO  PROVIDENCE  171 

road  crosses  the  Pawcatuck  river,  the  boundary  between 
Connecticut  and  Rhode  Island,  where  the  red  markers  cease 
to  be  used. 

77.5  WESTERLY.  Pop  10,175.  Washington  Co.,  R.I.  Settled 
1665.  Indian  name  Kichamaug.  Mfg.  cotton  and  woolen 
goods,  thread,  and  printing  presses;  extensive  greenhouses. 

Westerly  is  the  center  of  the  granite  industry  of  Rhode 
Island,  employing  about  2000  men.  This  prosperous  town  is 
situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Pawcatuck  river. 
A  tablet  on  the  river  bridge  reminds  us  that  this  is  "the  Indian 
wading  place,  called  Kitchamaug."  Wilcox  Park  and  the 
'  civic  center '  of  public  buildings  in  the  very  heart  of  the  town 
are  pleasant  features. 

In  1671  a  division  of  the  Newport  church  moved  here  and  embraced 
the  tenets  of  the  Seventh-Day  Baptists.  For  this  reason  some  of  the 
stores  close  on  Saturday  and  open  on  Sunday.  The  "Westerly  Daily 
Sun,"  established  by  the  late  Governor  Utter  of  Rhode  Island,  is  the 
only  paper  in  the  country  that  publishes  a  Sunday  evening  edition 
instead  of  a  Saturday  one. 

The  Westerly  granite  is  a  fine-grained  rock  which  occurs  along  the 
Eastern  Connecticut  Shore  and  extends  into  Rhode  Island.  Two 
varieties  occur:  a  finely  grained  crystalline  gray  rock  showing  minor 
variations  in  color  and  texture — th£  Westerly  granite  of  commerce; 
and  a  light  red,  coarse  granite.  The  fine  and  even  texture  of  the  gray 
variety  makes  it  especially  adapted  for  carved  work,  sculptural  monu- 
ments, Gothic  crosses,  etc. 

The  main-traveled  route  is  described  on  the  next  page.  See 
Rhode  Island  map. 

Note.  The  shortest  route  to  Providence  (43.9  m.  from 
Westerly)  turns  inland  following  High  St.  and  continuing 
through  Ashaway,  Hope  Valley,  and  several  more  primitive 
hamlets.  Many  miles  of  this  road  lead  through  an  apparently 
wild  and  uninhabited  forest  country  that  one  would  scarcely 
expect  to  find  in  Rhode  Island,  the  "most  thickly  settled  of 
all  the  States  of  the  Union."  It  is  a  region  growing  in  favor 
with  those  who  appreciate  the  charm  of  primitive  scenes  and 
a  comparative  freedom  from  the  congestion  of  traffic  that 
exists  on  the  better  known  ways.  This  route  leads  over 
Nooseneck  Hill,  commanding  an  extended  view  to  Washing- 
ton. Here  it  joins  the  road  from  Moosup  (R.  12,  note). 

Detour  to  Watch  Hill  and  Haversham.  12.5  m. 

A  route  eight  miles  longer  than  the  main  route  described 
below,  leads  south  on  Elm  St.  along  the  beautiful  waterfront 
drive. 

WATCH  HILL  (6.0),  on  a  promontory  boldly  jutting  into 
the  ocean  at  the  southwestern  extremity  of  Rhode  Island.  It 
is  a  popular  summer  resort. 


172  WESTERLY 

Its  attractions  include  an  ocean  beach,  still  waters  for  sailing 
and  bathing,  and  a  most  equable  climate,  and  also  a  public 
library,  good  golf  links,  and  several  large  hotels.  The  villas 
of  many  wealthy  western  and  southern  people  adorn  Sunset 
Hill  and  the  neighboring  shores.  The  residence  of  Mrs.  Mary 
Thaw  Thompson,  daughter  of  Mrs.  William  Thaw  of  Pitts- 
burgh, has  the  appearance  of  a  medieval  castle,  and  the  gardens 
have  been  painstakingly  devised  to  heighten  the  effect  of  age. 

To  the  east  runs  Narragansett  Beach,  and  to  the  west,  more 
protected,  is  Napatree  Beach.  Near  at  hand,  Napatree  Point, 
shaped  like  a  sickle,  stretches  westward  a  mile  and  a  half  to 
Fort  Mansfield.  Far  to  the  southeast  we  see  Block  Island, 
and  to  the  southwest  Fisher's  Island  and  Stonington;  Montauk 
Point,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  Long  Island,  lies  along  the 
southern  horizon.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  fact  that 
watch-fires  were  kindled  here  as  a  signal  during  the  Revolution. 

The  roads  about  Watch  Hill  are  in  fine  condition,  so  that  it 
makes  a  good  touring  center.  It  is  perhaps  the  most  conven- 
ient point  from  which  to  reach  Block  Island,  by  taking  the 
steamer  which  leaves  New  London  and  calls  at  Watch  Hill. 

From  Watch  Hill  the  route  skirts  the  foot  of  the  hills  which 
overlook  the  great  salt  ponds  and  lagoons  that  lie  back  of  the 
beaches,  along  this  shore,  joining  the  main  route,  beyond  the 
hamlet  of  Haversham  (12.5). 

From  Westerly  the  direct  road  bears  right  on  Granite  St. 
and  again  right  at  top  of  hill,  coming  into  the  Queen  Anne 
Post  Road,  meeting  Watch  Hill  Detour  (4.5).  Along  the  ocean 
front  across  these  protected  waters  are  numerous  summer 
settlements,  like  Ocean  View,  Weekapaug,  and  Quonochon- 
taug.  Opposite  Weekapaug  (22.0)  we  turn  inland,  and  half 
a  mile  beyond  bear  east  again  upon  the  Old  Post  Road.  Three 
and  a  half  miles  further  along,  near  the  road  that  leads  down  to 
Quonochontaug  Beach,  on  the  right  stands  a  monument  to 
General  Stanton,  the  first  senator  from  Rhode  Island. 

Four  miles  beyond,  on  the  right,  the  route  curves  by  the 
interesting  country  estate  known  as  the  King  Tom  farm,  with 
its  historic  mansion,  originally  built  by  a  spendthrift  Indian 
monarch,  and  tiny  lake,  between  which  is  the  large  flat-topped 
boulder  called  Coronation  Rock.  About  half  a  mile  more 
brings  us  to  Charlestown  P.O.  (29.7)  in  the  hamlet  locally 
known  as  Cross's  Mills.  To  the  south  lies  Pawauget,  or 
'Charlestown  Pond,'  as  the  modern  race  of  pale-faces  calls  it, 
the  largest  of  the  many  salt  water  lagoons  along  this  south 
shore.  Charlestown  Beach,  which  is  seen  in  the  distance, 
separates  it  from  the  ocean.  The  remains  of  an  old  fort  said 
to  have  been  successively  held  by  the  Indians,  the  Dutch,  and 


R.  2  §  2.     NEW   LONDON   TO   PROVIDENCE  173 

the  English  occupy  an  enclosure  upon  a  commanding  knoll 
above  the  water,  not  far  from  the  village  crossroads.  A  large 
boulder  erected  near  the  middle  of  the  old  fort  bears  this  in- 
scription: "Fort  Ninigret,  Memorial  of  the  Narragansett  and 
Niantic  Indians,  the  Unwavering  Friends  and  Allies  of  our 
Fathers,  Erected  by  the  State  of  Rhode  Island." 

After  the  Great  Swamp  Fight  at  South  Kingston  in  1675  the  remnant 
of  the  Narragansetts  joined  the  more  peaceable  Niantics  and  were 
subsequently  established  upon  what  became  known  as  the  Charlestown 
Reservation.  As  late  as  1822  407  remained,  and  158  in  1838.  In 
1881  the  reservation  was  sold  for  the  benefit  of  the  Indians  and  they 
were  placed  on  the  same  footing  as  other  citizens.  The  State  still 
cares  for  the  old  burial  ground  of  the  Narragansett  sachems,  on  the 
summit  of  Burial  Hill.  During  the  last  century  the  remnants  of  the 
tribe  have  intermarried  with  the  ex-slaves  who  were  liberated  by  the 
abolition  of  human  bondage  in  Rhode  Island,  but  the  several  hundred 
negroid  descendants  still  retain  many  of  the  characteristics  of  the  red 
men.  Their  annual  festival,  known  as  "August  Meeting,"  is  attended 
by  many  interesting  ceremonies. 

One  mile  beyond  Cross's  Mills,  on  the  left,  is  the  old  Gen- 
eral Stanton  Inn,  a  quaint  structure  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
and  three  miles  farther  on  is  the  post  office  of  Perryville  (33  7) , 
which  bears  the  name  of  the  famous  Rhode  Island  family 
that  gave  the  nation  two  of  its  greatest  naval  heroes.  Off 
to  the  left  of  the  Post  Road,  beyond  Matunuck,  was  the  home 
of  Commodore  Oliver  Hazard  Perry,  who  at  the  age  of 
twenty-seven  won  the  great  victory  of  Put-in-Bay  on  Lake 
Erie  in  1813. 

Beside  him  on  that  bloody  day  was  his  young  brother,  Matthew, 
who  later  won  greater  fame  through  his  tact  and  diplomacy  in  opening 
up  the  ports  of  Japan  to  the  outer  world.  The  Perry  family  had  been 
mariners  for  generations.  The  father  of  the  two  commodores,  Chris- 
topher Perry,  took  to  the  water  at  an  early  age,  and  it  was  under  his 
command,  aboard  a  United  States  frigate,  that  his  son  Oliver  began 
his  naval  career  as  a  midshipmite.  Oliver's  first  command  was  the 
United  States  frigate  "Revenge,"  which  was  wrecked  in  a  dense  fog 
on  the  coast  near  Watch  Hill,  but  on  his  demanding  a  court-martial  he 
was  not  only  exonerated  but  praised  for  his  able  conduct  under  the 
most  difficult  circumstances. 

The  route  continues  through  a  region  of  tumbled  morainic 
hills,  ponds,  and  salt  marshes,  with  fine  views  of  the  shore 
and  Point  Judith.  About  two  miles  north  of  Perryville  lies 
Worden's  Pond,  the  largest  in  this  region,  and  partly  surrounded 
by  swamps  that'  are  still  densely  wooded  and  practically  impene- 
trable except  by  canoeists.  It  was  in  the  neighborhood  north 
of  Worden's  Pond  that  the  Great  Swamp  Fight,  which  ended 
King  Philip's  War,  took  place  in  1675.  A  tall  granite  shaft 
marks  the  place  where  the  Narragansetts,  under  their  chief, 
Canonchet,  were  crushed  by  the  men  of  Salem,  under  Governor 
Josiah  Winslow.  The  horrors  committed  by  the  pious  Puri- 
tans are  said  to  have  exceeded  the  cruelties  of  the  Indians 


174  WESTERLY— WAKEFIELD 

themselves.  Between  Worden's  Pond  and  the  Post  Road  is  a 
marvelous  region  of  wild  rhododendron  groves  surrounding 
more  than  a  score  of  little  lakes. 

A  mile  beyond  Perryville,  a  road  turning  sharp  to  the  right 
(35.0)  leads  to  the  little  seaside  hamlet  of  Matoonoc,  or  Matu- 
nuck,  Beach,  in  the  center  of  an  almost  unbroken  twenty  mile 
sweep  of  beach.  At  this  corner,  on  the  right,  is  the  interesting 
fountain  in  memory  of  Wager  Weeden,  and  on  a  knoll  across  the 
road  is  the  house  where  during  the  latter  years  of  his  life  the 
generosity  of  one  of  his  Providence  friends  provided  Edward 
Everett  Hale  with  a  summer  home  overlooking  Point  Judith, 
Block  Island,  and  the  southern  shore  nearly  to  Watch  Hill. 

This  was  especially  appreciated  by  him,  and  in  his  "Tarry-at-Home 
Travels"  he  says:  "I  like  to  live  in  New  England  and  I  like  to  live 
in  the  South.  .  .  .  Providence  has,  therefore,  chosen  for  me  this  summer 
home  of  mine  so  far  south  as  one  can  go  and  stay  in  New  England." 
Hale  was  a  lineal  descendant  of  John  Hull  and  Judith  Sewall,  and 
further  on  lets  us  into  something  of  the  inner  life  of  the  potentates  of 
their  time,  and  reveals  a  solution  for  the  much-disputed  origin  of  the 
name  Point  Judith. 

"Dear  old  John  Hull, — the  same  who  coined  the  first  silver  money 
for  Massachusetts  and  showed  Cromwell  and  King  Charles  and  the 
Sachems  of  New  England  that  Massachusetts  had  the  sovereign  rights 
of  coining  money, — this  same  John  Hull  had  a  daughter  Judith.  If 
you  are  well  up  in  your  Hawthorne,  you  know  that  the  night  Samuel 
Sewall  (afterward  Chief  Justice,  the  same  .who  hanged  the  witches) 
married  Judith  Hull,  John  Hull,  her  father,  put  her  into  one  scale  of 
the  balance  and  poured  pine-tree  shillings  into  the  other,  enough  to 
weigh  her  down.  One  hundred  twenty-five  pounds  sterling,  the  girl 
weighed,  if  you  will  trust  me  who  have  read  the  same  in  the  manuscript 
ledger  of  her  new  husband.  This,  according  to  Hawthorne,  was  her 
dower.  Well,  this  same  John  Hull  and  his  some-time  son-in-law 
Sewall  went  into  a  fine  speculation  in  the  southwestern  part  of  Rhode 
Island  and  bought  the  Pataquamscut  Purchase  from  the  Indians.  .  .  . 
Well,  dear  old  John  Hull  wanted  to  give  this  outlying  point  a  name 
and  he  gave  Judith  Hull's  name,  before  she  was  Judith  Sewall." 

Continuing  on  past  the  Matunuck  road,  the  way  leads  on 
through  South  Kingston.  This  township,  like  Charlestown  on 
the  west  and  Narragansett  on  the  east,  is  crossed  by  the 
morainic  line  of  tumbled  kames  (p  24)  stretching  from  Point 
Judith  to  Groton,  spotted  with  ponds  and  swamps  in  the  old 
glacial  kettle  holes  and  bordered  by  lagoons  and  long  stretches 
of  smooth  white  beach. 

The  elder  Winthrop  thus  described  this  Narragansett  country  in 
1634:  "The  country  on  the  west  of  the  bay  of  Narragansett  is  all 
champain  for  many  miles,  but  very  stony  and  full  of  Indians."  This 
region  was  exploited  by  two  rival  land  companies  fathered  in  Boston 
by  John  Hull  and  Humphrey  Atherton.  In  1657  "what  was  known 
as  the  Pettaquamscott  purchase  was  made  by  John  Hull  and  his 
companions."  This  included  Point  Judith.  The  Atherton  company 
a  little  later  secured  land  about  Wickford. 

All  this  'South  County'  is  a  region  of  marked  individuality  and 
charm.  Facing  the  warm  ocean  and  the  Gulf  Stream  it  has  a  more 


R.  2  §  2.    NEW  LONDON  TO  PROVIDENCE  175 

equable  climate  than  any  other  portion  of  New  England,  and  here, 
among  pines  and  scrub  oak,  wild  rhododendron  and  holly  bloom, 
and  the  luxuriant  flora,  is  very  suggestive  of  the  South.  Perhaps  it  was 
natural  that  here  in  Colonial  days  the  life  and  customs  should  more 
closely  resemble  that  of  the  Virginia  plantations  than  the  Puritan 
farms.  The  land  was  owned  by  a  comparatively  small  number  of 
families  who  lived  in  almost  feudal  manner.  Estates  of  five,  six,  and 
even  ten  miles  square  existed  with  great  flocks  and  herds,  and  produc- 
ing great  crops  for  export, — cultivated  by  slave  labor,  Indian  and 
negro.  The  planters  had  great  wealth  and  spacious  mansions  and  lived 
luxuriously, — lordly  gentlemen  in  velvet  coats.  In  1730  the  township 
of  South  Kingston,  of  which  the  present  population  is  5497,  contained 
960  whites,  333  negroes,  and  193  Indians.  We  find  evidence  of  the 
rigor  with  which  the  numerous  slaves  were  controlled  in  the  law: 
"No  negroes  or  Indians,  freemen  or  slaves,  are  to  be  abroad  at  night 
on  penalty  of  not  exceeding  fifteen  stripes."  These  good  old  days 
have  passed,  but  the  fields  are  still  smiling  and  the  lakes  and  bay  are 
as  beautiful  as  of  yore,  and  much  more  appreciated,  while  in  the  wilds, 
reached  only  by  cart  track,  enthusiastic  devotees  of  the  country  have 
built  many  camps  and  bungalows  beside  the  still  waters  of  its  forest- 
bordered  lakes,  and  along  the  shore  are  summer  resorts  of  every  sort. 

Between  Matunuck  and  Wakefield,  four  and  a  half  miles 
beyond,  the  road  looks  out  over  broad  stretches  of  salt  pond 
and  sea,  and  leads  past  numerous  fine  country  estates  of  Provi- 
dence citizens,  on  many  of  which  the  old  Colonial  mansions 
have  been  restored  to  present  usefulness,  while  the  ones  newly 
built  are  generally  in  keeping  with  local  traditions, 

39.7  WAKEFIELD.  Pop  (South  Kingston  twp)  5176  (1910),  5497 
(1915).  Washington  Co.  Settled  1670.  Mfg.  cotton  and 
woolen  goods. 

The  village  lies  partly  on  the  hills  overlooking  the  long 
stretch  of  Point  Judith  Pond.  A  mile  north  of  Wakefield 
Station  and  part  of  the  same  settlement  is  the  busy  manufac- 
turing village  of  Peacedale  with  woolen  and  worsted  mills  and 
an  interesting  natural  history  museum.  Two  miles  beyond, 
in  the  quaint  old  village  of  Kingston  Hill,  is  the  rapidly  growing 
State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Mechanic  Arts.  The  main  route 
to  Wickford  and  Providence  continues  on  the  State  Road  (p  1 77) . 

Both  this  route  and  the  detour  below  contain  many  good 
stretches  of  tarvia  (p  800). 

Detour  to  Narragansett  Pier,  Saunderstown,  (Ferry  to  New- 
port) and  Wickford.     14.5  m. 

Another  road  to  Providence — perhaps  the  most  popular 
drive  in  the  State — leads  through  Narragansett  Pier  by  a 
route  which  is  3.7  miles  longer.  To  follow  this  turn  to 
the  right  from  the  Tower  Hill  road  half  a  mile  beyond  the 
center  of  Wakefield,  and  leaving  the  trolley  and  crossing  the 
railroad,  proceed  by  the  shore  of  Silver  Lake,  turning  shortly 
to  the  left  (2.3).  The  road  ahead  leads  to  Point  Judith  and 
the  Country  Club. 


176  NARRAGANSETT   PIER 

2.5     NARRAGANSETT  PIER.    Pop  1250  (1910),  1431  (1915).    Wash- 
ington Co.    Settled  1700. 

Narragansett  Pier,  a  fashionable  summer  watering  place 
with  huge  hotels  and  a  large  cottage  colony,  is  a  gay  place 
during  the  short  'season'  in  July  and  August.  The  mile-long 
beach  of  firm  sand  is  the  center  of  life,  and  here  at  high  noon 
many  a  Venus  may  be  seen  rising  from  the  water.  The 
smooth  beach,  the  color  and  beauty  of  the  summer  seascape 
continue  to  attract,  and  without  ever  having  obtained  the 
social  status  of  Newport  or  Bar  Harbor  the  Pier  has  for  more 
than  thirty  years  held  its  own  as  an  exalted  New  England 
summer  version  of  Atlantic  City. 

"The  first  thing  that  a  new-comer  to  Narragansett  Pier  does,"  writes 
Brander  Matthews,  "is  ask  for  the  Pier  itself;  and  he  is  always 
surprised  when  he  is  told  that  Narragansett  has  no  Pier.  Science 
informs  us  that  there  is  no  soda  in  soda  water  and  no  lead  in  lead 
pencils;  so,  also,  is  there  no  Pier  at  Narragansett  Pier." 

Narragansett  Pier  was  so  named  from  two  piers  erected 
here  late  in  the  eighteenth  century  to  provide  a  port  for  south- 
ern Rhode  Island.  The  region  at  that  time  was  one  of  agri- 
cultural and  maritime  wealth,  and  vast  plantations.  In  1856 
a  Philadelphia  family  came  to  this  lonely  waste  and  boarded 
at  a  farmhouse.  Then  there  was  nothing  but  a  little  straggling 
village  and  the  ramshackle  wharf  where  coal  barges  unloaded. 
The  following  year  a  few  friends  came  with  them,  and  the  farm 
was  called  the  Narragansett  Boarding  House.  Ten  years  later 
there  were  four  hotels,  and  in  the  decade  following  1870  the 
Pier  came  to  be  a  more  compact  mushroom  town  with  inns 
and  hotels  of  varying  size  and  comfort.  During  the  last 
quarter  of  a  century  it  has  been  'the  Trouville  of  America.' 

The  New  Casino  stands  on  a  point  of  land  thrust  out  from 
the  end  of  the  beach,  with  Italian  gardens  extending  from  the 
pavilion  to  the'sea.  The  old  Casino  was  burned  down  in  1900, 
but  its  stone  arch,  a  picturesque  reminder,  recently  restored, 
still  spans  the  ocean  road. 

Back  of  the  beach  behind  the  lagoon  amid  great  trees 
is  Canonchet,  the  celebrated  estate  of  the  Sprague  family, 
but  the  historic  mansion,  where  so  much  of  comedy  and 
tragedy  was  enacted  during  several  decades,  has  been  de- 
stroyed by  fire.  A  splendid  view  of  the  bay  from  Providence 
to  Point  Judith,  and  including  Fall  River,  Jamestown,  and 
Newport,  is  obtained  from  Narragansett  Heights. 

Ocean  Road  runs  through  rocky  open  country  commanding 
views  over  the  bay  and  open  sea  to  Point  Judith,  five  miles  to 
the  south.  The  finest  estates  are  on  the  Rocks  on  the  way 
out  to  the  Point,— Hazard  Castle,  a  stalwart  stone  structure 
with  its  tall  tower  rising  from  a  thick  growth  of  trees,  and 


R.  2  §  2.    NEW  LONDON  TO  PROVIDENCE  177 

Dunmere  with  a  little  lake  and  gardens  overlooking  the  sea. 
A  pleasant  walk  follows  along  the  Rocks  close  to  the  shore. 
The  Point  Judith  Country  Club  is  on  a  ridge  overlooking  the 
ocean  and  commands  a  beautiful  view.  The  polo  tourna- 
ments held  here  in  July  and  August  are  the  most  important 
social  events  in  the  summer.  To  the  west  of  the  Point  the 
Federal  Government  has  built  extensive  and  costly  break- 
waters for  a  harbor  of  refuge,  still  incomplete,  though  exten- 
sively used  by  coastwise  vessels. 

From  Narragansett  the  road  runs  north,  curves  right  and 
crosses  the  Pettaquamscott  by  an  ancient  covered  bridge 
(4.0)  and  ascends  the  ridge  of  Boston  Neck.  In  the  valley 
to  the  west  lies  the  little  hamlet  of  Bridgeton.  Turning  right 
and  crossing  trolley  (8.0)  the  route  bears  left  and  then  forks 
right  (9.1)  into  SAUNDERSTOWN  (9.3),  a  summer  place  of  much 
beauty  and  quiet  charm,  with  several  hotels  and  many  cottages. 

Note.  Saunderstown  to  Newport,  Providence,  Boston,  or 
Cape  Cod.  The  ferry  from  Saunderstown  to  Jamestown  on 
Conanicut  Island  (R.  32),  thence  across  the  island  by  the  road, 
and  again  by  ferry  to  Newport,  offers  perhaps  the  most  interest- 
ing route  from  here  to  Providence  or  Cape  Cod  (see  maps). 
Between  Saur  derstown  and  Jamestown  the  ferry  passes  Dutch 
Island,  which  is  owned  by  the  U.S.  Government  and  occupied 
by  the  extensive  works  of  Fort  Greble.  Just  south  of  Saunders- 
town on  the  left  is  the  great  weather-beaten  house  of  "the 
unfortunate  Hannah  Robinson,"  once  the  finest  mansion  for 
miles  around,  and  beyond  Saunderstown  to  the  north  is  Barbers 
Height  (200  ft),  commanding  a  glorious  outlook.  To  the 
west  of  Barbers  Height  in  the  valley  at  the  head  of  the  Petta- 
quamscott, on  a  dam  near  the  outlet  of  Pausacaco  Pond,  still 
stands  the  house  in  which  the  famous  artist  Gilbert  Stuart 
was  born  in  1755.  It  was  long  used  as  a  snuff  mill  and  later 
as  a  grist  mill. 

The  Narragansett  Detour  continues  by  Hamilton  village 
(12.6)  with  a  right  and  left  turn  across  the  Nannacatucket 
river,  crossing  the  trolley  and  the  R.R.  near  Wickford  Sta- 
tion. Just  beyond  the  iron  bridge  bear  right  on  Bridge  St. 
and  left  on  Main  St.  into  Wickford  (14.5). 

From  Wakefield  the  direct  road  follows  the  line  of  the  old 
Indian  'Pequot  Trail'  along  the  crest  of  Tower  and  Mc- 
Sparren  Hills,  commanding  far-reaching  views  of  Narragan- 
sett Bay  from  Point  Judith  past  Beavertail  to  Newport  and 
Sakonnet  Light.  Along  the  foot  of  the  ridge  the  Petta- 
quamscott river  with  its  chain  of  lakes  winds  through  a 
green  expanse  of  salt  marshes.  Across  the  valley  to  the  east 


178  NARRAGANSETT   PIER— EAST    GREENWICH 

is  Boston  Neck,  a  bold  ridge  bordering  the  water.  The  Neck 
was  the  home  of  the  Hazards,  a  famous  family  in  this  region 
during  the  eighteenth  century,  of  whom  there  were  so  many  of 
the  name  of  Tom  that  each  had  his  separate  sobriquet.  To 
'Shepard  Tom'  South  County  is  indebted  for  much  of  its 
fascinating  literature,  the  wellknown  "Johnny  Cake  Papers" 
perhaps  being  the  most  famous  contribution. 

Tower  Hill,  indeed,  has  much  Colonial  history.  Here,  two  centuries 
ago,  dwelt  the  scholarly  Dr.  McSparren,  first  minister  of  the  first 
Episcopal  Church  in  New  England,  and  here  at  an  earlier  date  George 
Fox,  the  great  Quaker  preacher,  gathered  many  of  his  faith  in  the 
house  of  Jireh  Bull  on  the  hill,  where  the  company  of  Friends  regularly 
met  until  the  house  was  burned  by  the  Indians  in  1676.  It  was  this 
outrage  that  led  in  retaliation  to  the  Great  Swamp  Fight  nearby 
which  broke  the  power  of  the  Narragansetts. 

The  route  continues  along  the  State  Road  over  McSparren 
Hill,  turning  left  (46.5)  and  right  into  Shadylea  and  across 
R.R.  at  Belleville  Station  (50.0).  Passing  through  Coalition 
Corners  (50.2)  the  route  joins  the  Detour  from  Narragansett 
Pier  on  Main  St.  (50.8). 

51.0  WICKFORD.  Pop  (North  Kingston  twp)  4048  (1910),  3931 
(1915).  Washington  Co.  Settled  1637.  U.S.  Shellfish 
Hatchery.  Steamer  to  Newport  (R.  32). 

A  village  of  about  1500  permanent  inhabitants  and  with 
several  times  as  many  summer  residents,  Wickford  is  the 
principal  village  in  the  town  of  North  Kingston.  This  ancient 
and  attractive  village,  replete  with  traditions  of  the  past 
when  her  far-flung  fleets  brought  to  her  the  wealth  of  the 
Indies,  lies  on  the  shore  of  a  deeply  indented  bay,  and  the 
waters  so  much  enter  into  the  life  and  outlook  that  it  has  been 
fantastically  called  the  'Venice  of  America.'  Its  old  houses 
and  quiet  streets  are  full  of  local  color  to  reward  the  artist. 
At  the  edge  of  the  village  is  the  curious  square  church  of 
St.  Paul's.  This  "old  Narragansett  Church,"  originally  built 
on  McSparren  Hill  in  1707,  was  removed  to  its  present  site 
in  1800.  Within  is  a  tablet  commemorating  Gilbert  Stuart. 

Not  far  north  of  Wickford  is  the  Great  Grave  where  forty 
soldiers,  victims  of  the  Great  Swamp  Fight  in  King  Philip's 
War,  were  buried,  and  here,  close  to  the  line  of  the  trolley  and 
fronting  the  bay,  is  the  Babbitt  farmhouse,  a  low-spreading 
structure  with  massive  hewn  oaken  beams  within.  This  is 
the  Richard  Smith  Blockhouse,  at  Cocumcussuc,  built  about 
1680  by  Richard  Smith,  Jr.,  partly  from  the  materials  and 
upon  the  original  foundation  of  the  old  garrison  house  which 
had  been  burned  by  the  Indians  during  King  Philip's  War. 
The  roof  is  apparently  of  later  construction  than  the  rest  of 
the  house.  The  original  trading  post,  built  in  1637  by  Richard 


R.  2  §  2.    NEW  LONDON  TO  PROVIDENCE  179 

Smith,  was  burned  in  King  Philip's  War.  The  present  struc- 
ture continued  to  be  occupied  by  his  descendants  until  through 
intermarriage  it  came  to  the  Opdykes,  a  family  of  Dutch  ori- 
gin who  long  prospered  in  this  neighborhood. 

The  road  north,  into  East  Greenwich  and  beyond,  follows 
in  a  large  part  the  old  Pequot  Trail  through  North  Kingston, 
and  crosses  the  Potowomut  river.  To  the  right  is  Potowomut 
Neck  on  which  are  fine  country  estates,  and  the  birthplace  of 
General  Nathanael  Greene,  second  in  command  to  Washing- 
ton in  the  War  of  the  Revolution,  is  close  by.  The  State 
Road  rounds  the  head  of  Green  Cove  and  enters 

57.5  EAST  GREENWICH.  Pop  (twp)  3420  (1910),  3604  (1915). 
Kent  Co.  Settled  1641.  Mfg.  cotton  and  woolen  goods. 

This  is  a  pleasant  old  town  overlooking  Cowesett  Bay,  with 
an  oldfashioned  conservative  atmosphere.  As  one  strolls 
along  the  quiet,  shaded  streets  one  gains  the  impression  of 
cool  white  walls,  green  blinds,  and  .brass  knockers. 

Upon  the  hill  above  the  intersection  of  the  two  principal 
streets  are  the  finest  of  the  old  houses,  standing  beneath 
venerable  trees  which  were  there  when  Generals  Sullivan, 
Greene,  and  Lafayette  walked  these  same  streets.  Just  south 
of  the  Corners  is  a  handsome  white  Court  House  with  a  cupola, 
built  in  Colonial  times.  This  and  the  General  Varnum  house 
are  perhaps  the  best  examples  of  Colonial  architecture  in  the 
town.  The  chief  inn  opposite  still  has  the  old  village  tavern 
sign,  a  wooden  bunch  of  grapes. 

The  Greene  Memorial  House,  marked  by  a  plate  upon  its 
front,  stands  on  the  northern  side  of  Division  St.,  half  a  mile 
up  the  hill  to  the  east  of  Main  St.,  and  was  built  about  1684, 
but  successive  generations  have  added  to  it  here  and  there,  so 
that  now  it  is  a  large,  rambling,  oldfashioned  structure,  the 
older  portion  in  the  center  being  marked  by  a  large  stone 
chimney.  This  was  the  home  of  Governor  Silas  Greene,  the 
birthplace  of  General  Francis  Greene  of  Gettysburg  fame,  and 
former  Police  Commissioner  Greene  of  New  York. 

The  old  county  jail  at  the  corner  of  Marlborough  and  Queen 
Sts.  has  been  transformed  into  a  dwelling.  Southwest  in  a 
commanding  position  are  the  buildings  of  the  East  Greenwich 
Academy,  a  famous  Methodist  school  established  1802,  and 
the  Quaker  Meeting  House,  no  longer  used. 

A  trading  post  and  an  inn  were  erected  in  this  neighborhood  in  1641. 
Here  the  Massachusetts  and  Plymouth  forces  met  before  the  Great 
Swamp  Fight  in  1675. 

The  greatest  of  the  sons  of  East  Greenwich  was  Nathanael  Greene, 
who  in  the  Revolution  stood  next  to  Washington  in  ability  and  author- 
ity, and  on  whom  Washington  leaned  with  confidence  and  affection. 
He  was  born  on  Potowomut  Neck  in  1742,  and  sprang,  like  so  many 
fighting  men,  of  Quaker  stock. 


l8o  EAST    GREENWICH— PROVIDENCE 

Beyond  East  Greenwich  the  route  follows  the  trolley  in  general 
northward  along  the  line  of  the  Old  Pequot  Trail. 

On  the  shore  of  Greenwich  Bay  is  an  old  Indian  shell  heap, 
several  hundred  feet  in  extent,  where  the  Indians  manufac- 
tured wampum  from  the  blue  part  of  the  clam  shells.  There 
are  a  number  of  Indian  burial  grounds  in  this  vicinity,  in  which 
the  bodies  are  always  found  buried  in  a  sitting  posture. 

The  beautiful  elm-bordered  street  passes  close  to  the  little 
stations  of  Cowesett  and  Chippewanoxett.  At  Apponaug  (60.3) 
the  route  turns  square  to  the  right  at  four  corners  near  the 
substantial  Town  Hall  and  Court  House. 

One  mile  southwest  of  the  Town  Hall  is  a  boulder  known  as 
Drum  Rock,  so  hidden  in  the  bushes  that  it  needs  a  guide  to 
find  it.  It  is  so  poised  that  it  can  be  rocked  by  the  hand  with- 
out overturning,  making  a  deep  bell-like  sound.  This  was 
used  by  the  Indians  as  an  alarm  signal. 

Beyond  the  Apponaug  Town  Hall  the  popular  route  to 
Providence  turns  left  with  trolley  (see  next  page). 

Note.  The  poorer  road  straight  ahead  leads  to  the  city  via 
Pontiac  and  the  State  Institutions,  and  the  fine  road  to  the  left 
connects  with  the  Nooseneck  Hill  Road  in  the  populous  center 
of  the  'Valley  Villages.' 

I 

Detour  via  Old   Warwick   to   Providence.  14.0  m. 

The  right  fork  which  runs  under  the  steam  railroad  tracks 
at  Apponaug  Station  leads  to  Nausauket  and  numerous  summer 
colonies,  passing  through  OLD  WARWICK  (3.0).  Today  this  is 
but  a  village,  although  at  one  time  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
third  town  of  importance  in  Rhode  Island.  At  a  crossroad  is 
the  old,  almost  cubical,  dilapidated  Assembly  House  with  the 
date  1726  over  the  door;  and  the  old  inn  where  the  British 
General  Prescott  was  taken  the  day  following  his  capture 
still  exists.  The  name  of  Warwick  is  due  to  this  land  having 
been  granted  to  the  Earl  of  Warwick  in  1631. 

The  shores  about  here,  from  East  Greenwich  all  the  way  to 
Providence,  are  closely  lined  with  summer  settlements, — from 
south  to  north,  Nausauket,  Buttonwoods,  and  Oakland  Beach 
on  Greenwich  Bay,  and  Long  Meadow,  Bay  Side,  River  View, 
Shawomet,  Conimicut,  Lakewood,  and  Pawtuxet  on  the  east 
shore  of  Narragansett  Bay. 

Warwick  Neck,  extending  to  the  south  and  separating  Green- 
wich Bay  from  the  broader  Narragansett  Bay,  is  a  fashionable 
place  of  summer  residence,  with  some  fine  estates.  A  promi- 
nent landmark  on  the  Neck,  visible  from  almost  every  hill  in 
Rhode  Island,  is  the  stone  tower  on  the  estate  of  the  late  Sena- 
tor Aldrich,  who  was  popularly  known  as  the  '  General  Man- 


R.  2  §  2.    NEW  LONDON  TO  PROVIDENCE  181 

ager '  of  the  United  States.     To  the  east  of  the  Neck  is  Rocky 
Point,  a  popular  excursion  resort,  famous  for  its  clambakes. 

The  Detour  leads  on  up  the  shore  into  Providence  via  Aliens 
Ave.,  and  Eddy  St.  to  Exchange  Place  (14.0). 

From  Apponaug,  unless  we  wish  to  make  the  detour  through 
these  shore  settlements,  we  follow  the  trolley  to  the  left,  pass- 
ing Gorton's  Pond  and  Greenwood  Station,  where  there  is  a 
sharp  and  somewhat  dangerous  turn  to  the  right  and  another 
to  the  left,  just  beyond  the  railroad  bridge,  and  passing  through 
Hill's  Grove  and  Lincoln  Park  we  bear  to  the  left  with  branch- 
ing telegraph  lines  into  Elmwood  Ave.,  and  continue  through 
Norwood  and  over  the  Pawtuxet  river  through  the  Auburn 
district  of  the  suburban  city  of  Cranston.  Crossing  Park  Ave. 
we  enter  the  city  of  Providence  and  presently  pass  Roger 
Williams  Park,  which  must  be  visited  later  (p  192). 

The  original  portion  of  the  park  (about  one  quarter  of  its 
present  area)  was  deeded  to  the  city  in  1871  by  Betsy  Williams, 
a  direct  descendant  of  Roger  Williams.  Her  house,  built  in 
1775,  stands  in  the  grounds,  and  the  Williams  family  burying 
ground  is  close  by.  A  small  portion  of  the  park  lake  with  the 
bandstand  and  casino  are  visible  on  the  right,  and  the  Anna 
H.  Man  gates  guard  the  main  entrance.  A  mile  beyond  the 
park  is  Columbus  Triangle  with  its  monument,  and  another 
mile  farther  Elmwood  Ave.  leads  into  Broad  St.  at  Trinity 
Square.  We  proceed  down  Broad  St.  and  on  through  Wey- 
bosset  St.  to  Market  Square,  or  turn  left  on  Dorrance  St.  to 
Exchange  Place,  the  civic  center. 

70.0  PROVIDENCE.  Pop  224,326  (1910),  247,660  (1915);  70,000 
foreign-born.  State  Capital,  and  County-seat  of  Providence 
Co.  Settled  1636.  Port  of  Entry.  Second  largest  city  in 
New  England.  Important  manufacturing  center.  Mfg.  jew- 
elry and  silverware,  bronze,  textiles,  tools,  engines,  files, 
stoves,  cigars,  chemicals,  etc.  Value  of  Product,  $120,380,000; 
Payroll,  $30,099,000.  Steamers  to  New  York,  Philadelphia, 
Baltimore,  Norfolk,  and  foreign  ports;  and  in  season  to  Block 
Island  and  all  Narragansett  Bay  points. 

Providence,  the  city  of  Roger  Williams  and  the  capital  of 
the  State,  is  situated  on  the  Providence  river  (the  northern 
arm  of  Narragansett  Bay)  at  its  confluence  with  the  Seekonk 
and  at  the  head  of  deep  water  navigation.  Its  commanding 
position  at  the  head  of  the  bay  and  its  central  situation  in  the 
midst  of  the  great  industrial  population  have  given  it  the  name 
of  'The  Southern  Gateway  of  New  England.'  It  has  been 
stated  that  the  Providence  Metropolitan  District  ranks  sixth 
among  American  communities  in  the  amount  of  products  of 
its  factories  and  fifth  in  the  size  of  its  annual  payroll  to  the 


1 82  PROVIDENCE 

operatives.  It  has  some  3000  factories  and  plants,  employing 
about  50,000  operatives. 

This  is  the  first  city  in  the  country  in  the  manufacture  of 
woolens  and  worsteds,  jewelry  and  silverware,  the  latter  two 
combined  producing  $35,000,000  worth  of  manufactured  goods 
and  employing  12,000  people.  A  twenty-mile  circuit  with  the 
Providence  City  Hall  as  center  encloses  the  largest  textile 
manufacturing  district  on  the  continent.  Chief  among  these 
concerns  are  the  mills  owned  by  B.  B.  and  R.  Knight.  The 
late  Robert  Knight  was  the  largest  individual  cotton  mill 
owner  in  the  world,  controlling  in  Rhode  Island  alone  about  a 
score  of  mills  together  with  their  surrounding  villages.  Provi- 
dence is  said  to  have  the  largest  mechanical  tool  factory  (Brown 
and  Sharpe  Company),  the  largest  file  factory  (Nicholson  File 
Company),  the  largest  engine  factory  (Corliss  Engine  Com- 
pany), the  largest  screw  factory  (American  Screw  Company), 
and  the  largest  silverware  factory  (the  Gorham  Mfg.  Co.)  in 
the  world,  and  the  quality  of  the  water  in  the  small  fresh  water 
rivers  near  at  hand  makes  it  a  national  center  for  the  bleaching 
and  finishing  of  fabrics. 

Few  cities  in  the  country  have  more  landmarks  of  prime 
historic  interest  or  such  a  collection  of  notable  examples  of 
Colonial  architecture.  The  museums  and  libraries  are  particu- 
larly interesting,  and  several  of  the  parks  unusually  attractive. 
It  is  the  seat  of  Brown  University,  one  of  the  oldest  and  best- 
known  American  colleges.  The  populous  suburbs  constitute 
a  'metropolitan  district,'  ranking  eleventh  among  America's 
communities  and  second  in  New  England,  with  a  population 
of  over  half  a  million. 

Providence  was  founded  in  1636  by  Roger  Williams,  the  first  suc- 
cessful apostle  in  America,  if  not  in  the  world,  of  the  theory  of  Freedom 
of  Conscience  and  of  the  separation  of  Church  and  State,  and  the  first 
to  assert  the  right  of  the  native  Indians  to  their  lands.  Banished 
from  Massachusetts  owing  to  his  advanced  ideas,  he  settled  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Seekonk  river,  near  the  spot  now  marked  by  a  tablet  on 
the  shore  of  Omega  Pond,  but  warned  from  there  by  the  Governor  of 
Plymouth  he  dropped  down  the  river  in  a  canoe  with  five  companions. 
As  they  passed  a  cove  near  the  present  India  Street  Bridge  they  were 
hailed  by  some  Indians  assembled  on  Slate  Rock,  with  the  words, 
"What  Cheer,  Netop  [friend]?"  This  rock  now  lies  buried  under 
Roger  Williams  Square,  near  Power  St.  Continuing  on  round  Fox 
Point,  and  through  the  broad  "Salt  River,"  where  the  business  dis- 
trict of  the  city  now  stands,  the  little  company  paddled  up  the  Moshas- 
suck  and  landed  at  a  bubbling  spring  which  is  said  to  have  decided 
Roger  Williams  to  choose  the  site;  it  still  runs  in  the  basement  of  a 
house  on  North  Main  St.,  near  St.  John's  Church,  as  a  tablet  indicates. 

Roger  Williams  named  the  new  settlement  Providence,  "In  grateful 
remembrance  of  God's  merciful  Providence  to  me  in  my  distress." 
He  received  from  the  Sachems  Canonicus  and  Miantonomoh  a  grant, 
now  in  the  City  Hall,  to  the  lands  of  "  Moshassuc,"  but  aggression  and 
ill-will  on  the  part  of  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut,  both  of  whom 


R.  2  §  2.    NEW  LONDON  TO  PROVIDENCE  183 

claimed  ownership  to  the  shores  of  Narragansett  Bay,  made  it  necessary 
for  him  in  1644  to  go  to  England  to  obtain  a  royal  charter  for  the  new 
colony.  While  there  he  published  his  famous  Indian  Dictionary,  or 
"Key  into  the  Language  of  America,"  and,  it  is  said,  partly  supported 
himself  by  reading  Dutch  to  John  Milton.  Previous  to  this,  however, 
the  men  of  Providence  had  in  1638  drawn  up  their  celebrated  "Com- 
pact," little  realizing  that  it  was  destined  to  revolutionize  the  whole 
science  of-  civilized  government.  The  ancient  parchment,  now  treas- 
ured in  the  City  Hall,  is  perhaps  the  most  precious  in  existence,  for 
"under  it  the  doctrine  of  religious  liberty  was  given  to  the  world." 

Though  the  settlers  of  Rhode  Island  had  always  maintained  friendly 
intercourse  with  the  Indians,  the  struggling  settlement  was  nearly  de- 
stroyed during  King  Philip's  War,  when  it  became  the  battle  ground 
upon  which  the  two  neighboring  colonies  fought  the  red  man. 

By  the  time  of  the  Revolution  Providence  had  developed  into  a 
thriving  commercial  city,  especially  in  regard  to  the  China  and  India 
trade.  The  names  of  many  of  the  streets— Pound,  Sovereign,  Shilling, 
Dollar,  Benevolent,  Friendship,  Peace- — reflect  this  early  commercial 
importance  and  also  a  strong  Quaker  element. 

"There  grew  up  several  families  in  Providence- — notably  that  of 
the  four  Brown  brothers,  Nicholas,  Joseph,  John,  and  Moses— who 
showed  a  commercial  grasp  and  daring  in  the  East  India  trade  which 
made  them  leaders  in  the  community;  the  Brown  family  alone  em- 
ployed eighty-four  vessels  in  operations  reaching  all  parts  of  the  world." 
Among  their  other  activities  they  practically  controlled  the  spermaceti 
market  and  the  candle  manufacturers  of  all  the  colonies  in  the  days 
when  candles  were  the  only  means  of  illumination. 

The  British  schooner  "Gaspee"  chasing  a  Providence  packet  boat 
ran  aground  at  what  is  known  as  Gaspee  Point  (p  192).  John  Brown 
and  his  brothers  planned  the  capture  of  the  schooner.  A  party  of  men 
led  by  Abraham  Whipple  approached  the  stranded  "Gaspee"  with' 
muffled  oars  under  cover  of  the  darkness,  seized  and  carried  off  the 
crew,  and  burned  the  vessel.  This  incident  was  planned  in  James 
Sabin's  old  tavern,  and  the  room  has  since  been  cut  out  and  trans- 
ferred intact  to  the  Talbot  House,  209  Williams  St.  History  records 
the  following  letter:  "You,  Abraham  Whipple  on  the  loth  day  of 
June  1772,  burned  His  Majesty's  vessel,  the  Gaspee,  and  I  will  hang 
you  at  the  yard  arm";  and  the  reply:  "Sir  James  Wallace — Always 
catch  a  man  before  you  hang  him."  Thus,  say  Providence  folk,  was 
spilled  the  first  blood  of  the  Revolution. 

This,  however,  was  not  the  only  act  to  indicate  that  the  independent 
spirit  of  the  founder  still  prevailed  in  the  community,  for  the  "People 
of  Providence  in  Town  Meeting  Assembled"  was  the  first  authorized 
body  to  recommend  the  permanent  establishment  of  a  Continental 
Congress,  May  17,  1774,  and  the  General  Assembly  of  Rhode  Island 
on  June  15  of  the  same  year  appointed  Samuel  Ward  and  Esek  Hop- 
kins as  delegates  thereto. 

As  commemorated  by  the  tablet  on  the  Chamber  of  Commerce 
building,  the  people  of  Providence  effectively  protested  against  unjust 
taxation  by  burning  British-taxed  tea  on  the  night  of  March  2,  1775, 
and  by  deliberate  act  of  the  General  Assembly  on  May  4,  1776,  just 
two  months  before  the  Declaration  of  Independence  at  Philadelphia, 
Rhode  Island,  in  her  own  "Independence  Hall"  which  still  stands  as 
the  Sixth  District  Court  House  in  Providence,  "struck  the  name  of 
the  King  from  the  Charter  of  her  liberties,"  and  boldly  stood  forth  as 
a  free  and  independent  State. 

The  versatile  Esek  Hopkins  was  the  first  Admiral  and  Commander- 
in-chief  of  the  American  Navy,  though  Rhode  Island  had  some  time 
previously  blazed  the  way  by  providing  for  a  navy  of  its  own  with 


1 84  PROVIDENCE 

Abraham  Whipple  in  command.  He  promptly  captured  as  his  first 
prize  the  tender  of  the  British  frigate  "Rose,"  then  off  Newport,  and 
fired  the  first  cannon  at  the  Royal  Navy,  June  15,  1775. 

Although  at  one  time  early  in  the  nineteenth  century  Providence 
possessed  more  ships  than  did  even  the  city  of  New  York,  the  commerce 
of  the  port  declined  greatly  after  the  War  of  1812,  but  the  textile  in- 
dustries of  Providence  had  grown  with  such  amazing  rapidity  that  she 
turned  aside  from  the  ocean  to  tend  her  looms  and  spinning-frames. 
It  is  said  that  cotton  manufacturing  in  America  began  in  Providence 
in  1788  when  Peck,  Dexter,  and  Anthony  set  up  the  first  spinning- 
jenny.  Soon  afterward  Moses  Brown  secured  the  services  of  Samuel 
Slater,  who  in  1790  set  up  from  memory  a  replica  of  the  new  spinning 
machinery  of  Arkwright  in  the  old  stone  mill  on  the  Pawtucket  river 
(p  194).  This  laid  the  foundations  of  America's  textile  industries. 
"Forty  years  later  the  Brown  family  had  sold  its  last  trading  vessel 
and  identified  itself  with  the  manufacture  of  cotton  goods."  Today 
Rhode  Island  leads  in  the  production  per  head  of  textiles. 

And  now  again  Providence  bids  fair  to  become  a  world  port.  The 
City,  State,  and  Federal  Government  have  cooperated  to  deepen  and 
straighten  the  channel,  piers  have  been  built,  and  transatlantic  liners 
sail  to  the  very  gates  of  the  city.  In  the  near  future  Providence  will 
have  direct  rail  connection  with  the  Pacific  Coast.  It  is  several  days 
nearer  to  Panama  than  is  San  Francisco,  and,  with  the  exception  of 
Key  West,  is  the  nearest  of  the  U.S.  Atlantic  Coast  cities  to  the  entire 
east  coast  of  South  America,  while  the  population  and  industries 
within  easy  reach  by  automobile  truck  delivery  are  exceeded  on  the 
western  hemisphere  only  by  those  within  equal  distance  of  New  York 
and  Philadelphia  (i.e.,  over  5,000,000  people  within  80  miles). 

Explorations  in  Providence. 

The  city  is  laid  out,  or  rather  has  developed  itself,  in  some- 
what the  form  of  an  eccentric  spider's  web,  or  a  wheel  with 
somewhat  bent  and  crooked  spokes  extending  from  Exchange 
Place,  the  civic  center,  in  about  every  direction.  From  this 
point  radiate  the  State  Road  and  Highway  systems  of  Rhode 
Island  and  parts  of  Connecticut  and  Massachusetts,  and  about 
sixty-three  car  lines  have  their  terminus  here.  Most  of  the 
important  highways  are  overcrowded  and  much  too  narrow, 
though  many  millions  are  now  being  spent  on  improvements. 

CIVIC   CENTER   AND    CAPITOL   HILL. 

The  open  square  of  Exchange  Place,  in  the  heart  of  the  city, 
with  its  beautiful  Mall  and  City  Hall  Park,  is  at  present  the 
finest  entrance  plaza  in  America.  On  the  north  side  is  the 
Union  Station,  which  is  used  by  an  average  of  35,000  to 
40,000  passengers  per  day.  It  cost  about  $4,500,000,  and  has 
been  called  by  railroad  experts  "the  most  efficient  operating 
station  ever  built  in  America."  On  the  west  is  the  City  Hall, 
which  with  recent  improvements  has  cost  about  $1,300,000, 
and  on  the  east  is  the  new  Federal  Building  erected  in  1908 
at  a  cost  of  approximately  the  same  amount.  Statues  of  Colonel 
Henry  H.  Young,  Chief  of  Scouts  under  General  Sheridan,  and 


R.  2  §  2.     NEW   LONDON   TO   PROVIDENCE 


185 


of  General  Burnside,  the  Bajnotti  Fountain,  and  the  Soldiers' 
and  Sailors'  Monument,  adorn  the  square. 

North  of  the  station  and  beyond  a  future  public  garden,  in 
a  commanding  situation  on  Capitol  Hill,  is  the  State  House,  a 
masterpiece  by  McKim,  Mead  &  White.  It  is  a  huge  Renais- 


sance structure  of  Georgia  marble  surmounted  by  one  of  the 
few  marble  domes  in  the  world  (235  ft,  fine  view).  The  pur- 
pose for  which  the  colony  was  founded  is  expressed  in  the  in- 
scription over  the  south  portico, — "To  set  forth  a  lively  experi- 
ment that  a  most  flourishing  civil  State  may  stand  and  best  be 
maintained  with  full  liberty  in  religious  concernments."  In 
the  State  Chamber  are  the  famous  full-length  portrait  of 


1 86  PROVIDENCE 

Washington  by  Gilbert  Stuart,  and  portraits  of  General 
Nathanael  Greene  and  Commodore  Oliver  Hazard  Perry  by 
Gari  Melchers.  The  State  House  grounds  cover  twenty-seven 
acres,  and  the  building  was  completed  in  1903  at  a  cost  of 
$3,200,000.  Providence  has  been  the  sole  capital  of  Rhode 
Island  since  1900;  before  that  time  it  divided  the  honor  with 
Newport. 

Beyond  the  State  House,  and  likewise  surrounded  by  exten- 
sive grounds,  is  the  fine  State  Normal  School.  The  building 
cost  $500,000.  West  of  the  Normal  School  is  the  great  plant  of 
the  Brown  and  Sharpe  Company,  manufacturers  of  fine  machin- 
ery and  measuring  instruments,  occupying  over  twenty-four 
acres  of  floor  space  and  employing  about  5500  operatives. 
Their  products  go  to  all  parts  of  the  civilized  world. 

THE    EAST    SIDE    TOUR. 

Returning  to  Exchange  Place  we  take  Dorrance  St.,  passing 
the  City  Hall  on  the  right,  and  crossing  Westminster  St.,  the 
chief  business  thoroughfare,  we  turn  left,  into  Weybosset.  On 
the  left  is  the  Arcade,  built  1828,  a  portico  of  huge  Ionic  columns 
with  shops,  which  leads  through  to  Westminster  St.  We  pass 
through  'Turks  Head,'  with  its  tall  office  buildings,  where 
Weybosset  and  Westminster  Sts.  converge,  into  Market  Square, 
called  the  widest  bridge  for  its  length  in  the  world. 

On  the  right,  the  picturesque  line  of  old  warehouses  is  a 
visible  reminder  of  the  early  days  of  maritime  activity.  Be- 
hind these  buildings,  on  South  Main  St.,  is  the  Joseph  Brown 
house  (1774),  now  occupied  by  the  oldest  bank  in  New  Eng- 
land, the  Providence  National.  Its  round  gable  is  a  distinc- 
tive type  of  Rhode  Island  architecture. 

Straight  ahead  is  the  Old  Market  House  (1773),  now  occu- 
pied by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  bearing  a  tablet  commem- 
orating the  burning  of  British-taxed  tea,  March  2,  1775.  Pass- 
ing to  the  left  of  the  building,  we  turn  into  North  Main,  or 
'Cheapside,'  which  with  South  Main  formed  the  original 
'Towne  Streete'  of  the  settlement.  It  was  a  shore  road,  its 
western  side  washed  by  the  waters  of  the  Great  Salt  Bay. 
The  houses  of  Roger  Williams  and  his  companions  were  built 
on  the  eastern  side,  their  orchards  running  up  the  hillside. 

Just  before  reaching  the  tunnel  entrance  we  pass  the  new 
Textile  building  of  the  School  of  Design,  on  our  right,  and  over 
the  tunnel  is  the  main  building  of  the  institution. 

The  First  Baptist  Meeting  House,  founded  by  Roger  Will- 
iams, is  the  oldest  Baptist  Church  and  one  of  the  finest  ex- 
amples of  Colonial  architecture  in  the  country.  The  present 
building  dates  from  1775,  and  from  the  belfry  the  curfew  is  still 
rung  every  evening  at  nine.  The  church  was  built  from  one  of 


R.  2  §  2.    NEW  LONDON  TO  PROVIDENCE 


187 


the  alternative  plans  drawn  by  the  English  architect  James 
Gibbs  for  the  church  of  St.  Martin's-in-the-Fields,  London. 
Joseph  Brown,  who  with  William  Sumner  was  its  architect, 
was  one  of  the  'Four  Brothers'  who  accomplished  so  much  for 
the  material  prosperity  of  Providence.  He  also  designed  his 
own  house,  previously  mentioned,  now  the  home  of  the  Provi- 
dence National  Bank,  and  that  of  his  brother  John  at  52 
Power  St.  On  Commencement  Day  the  graduates  of  Brown 
march  down  College  Hill  to  receive  their  diplomas  in  this  church. 

Just  beyond  the  overhead  tracks,  to  the  right,  on  Meeting 
St.  is  a  small  brick  building,  the  first  free  school  in  Provi- 
dence (1768)  and  the  first  open-air  school  in  America.  A 
block  further  on  is  the  Old  State  House  (Independence  Hall, 
1762),  where  the  Rhode  Island  Colonial  Assembly  declared  its 
independence  of  Great  Britain 
on  May  4,  1776,  two  months 
prior  to  the  famous  act  in 
Philadelphia. 

A  tablet  on  the  right,  at  the 
corner  of  Howland  St.,  marks 
the  site  of  Roger  Williams' 
house.  Another  tablet  on  the 
left  announces  that  the  Roger 
William  Spring  still  flows  in  the 
basement  of  the  house  No.  244, 
corner  of  Alamo  Lane.  St. 
John's  Church  was  built  in 
1810.  Curving  upgrade  on 

North  Main  St.  we  come  into  Benefit  St.,  where  we  turn  sharply 
to  the  right.  This  street,  laid  out  for  the  "benefit "  of  those  who 
had  houses  on  the  sidehill,  ran  through  their  orchards  and 
graveyards.  We  pass  several  dignified  old  houses  with  good 
doorways.  At  the  corner  of  Bowen  St.,  on  our  left,  is  the  Sulli- 
van Dorr  house  (1809),  rich  in  Colonial  detail  and  mural 
decorations.  Roger  Williams  was  buried  in  the  yard.  It  was 
built  by  the  father  of  Thomas  W.  Dorr,  hero  and  victim  of 
Dorr's  Rebellion. 

As  champion  of  the  people's  party  in  the  struggle  for  equal  suffrage 
against  the  limited  suffrage  clause  in  the  charter  of  1662  Dorr  was 
elected  Governor  by  irregular  and  illegitimate  voting.  Refused  recog- 
nition by  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  State  and  by  President  Tyler, 
Dorr  and  a  few  enthusiasts  mustered  to  arms  and  vainly  attempted  to 
seize  the  arsenal.  Convicted  of  high  treason  and  sentenced  to  life  im- 
prisonment, Dorr  was  released  shortly  after  and  soon  restored  to  citizen- 
ship. His  cause  triumphed  in  the  main,  though  its  details  are  still 
a  source  of  party  strife. 

We  pass  the  Old  State  House  on  our  right,  and  on  the  left, 
the  Golden  Ball  Inn,  now  the  Mansion  House,  opened  1784. 


THE   SULLIVAN  DORR    HOUSE 


1 88  PROVIDENCE 

President  Washington  and  Thomas  Jefferson  made  it  their 
headquarters  on  August  21,  1790,  while  General  Lafayette  was 
entertained  here  in  1784  and  again  forty  years  later.  To  the 
right,  on  Thomas  St.,  are  the  quaint  little  Art  Club  and  the 
Fleur  de  Lis  Studios.  On  our  left,  at  the  corner  of  Angell  St., 
is  the  Supreme  Court  House. 

Again  passing  the  First  Baptist  Meeting  House,  on  the  right 
is  the  Rhode  Island  School  of  Design  with  a  notable  museum 
and  a  school  of  applied  art.  It  owns  practically  all  of  the  square 
bounded  by  Waterman,  Benefit,  North  Main,  and  College  Sts. 
It  has  about  noo  students,  and  nearly  100,000  persons  a  year 
visit  its  galleries.  At  n  Waterman  St.  is  the  main  building, 
containing  noteworthy  collections  of  Japanese  pottery,  textiles, 
paintings,  casts,  etc.  Reached  through  this  building,  but 
facing  on  Benefit  St.,  is  Colonial  House,  a  fireproof  Georgian 
mansion  built  to  hold  the  superb  Charles  L.  Pendleton  collec- 
tion of  antique  furnishings.  It  is  absolutely  unique  as  a 
museum,  reproducing  perfectly  the  luxurious  home  of  an 
eighteenth-century  gentleman.  Beyond  Colonial  House  is 
Memorial  Hall,  which  belongs  to  the  School  of  Design. 

On  our  left,  at  the  corner  of  Waterman  St.,  we  pass  the  Uni- 
versity Club.  On  the  left,  corner  of  College  St.,  is  the  Handi- 
craft Club  with  an  interesting  courtyard.  On  two  opposite 
corners  are  the  County  Court  House  and  the  Athenaeum.  The 
latter,  founded  1753,  is  one  of  the  few  remaining  proprietary 
libraries  in  the  country.  It  has  a  small  collection  of  paintings, 
including  portraits  by  Reynolds  and  Van  Dyke,  and  "The 
Hours,"  Malbone's  celebrated  miniature  executed  in  1801. 
Poe  and  Mrs.  Whitman  carried  on  their  literary  courtship  in 
.the  alcoves  of  the  Athenaeum.  In  the  Art  Room  is  a  portrait  of 
Mrs.  Whitman  by  Cephas  Thompson. 

Sarah  Helen  Whitman,  the  Rhode  Island  poetess,  is  chiefly  cele- 
brated on  account  of  her  romance  with  Poe,  who  declared  her  to  be 
"pre-eminent  in  refinement  of  art,  enthusiasm,  imagination,  and 
genius."  After  the  death  of  his  wife  he  met  Mrs.  Whitman  and  a 
conditional  engagement  took  place,  which  she  later  reluctantly  broke 
because  of  his  habits.  Poe  died  soon  after  and  Mrs.  Whitman  wrote  a 
volume  in  his  praise.  On  one  of  their  visits  to  the  Athenaeum  in  1848 
Mrs.  Whitman  showed  him  a  charming  poem  called  "Ulalume,"  in 
the  "American  Review"  for  December,  1847.  When  Poe  smilingly 
admitted  that  he  himself  was  the  author,  the  librarian  brought  the 
magazine,  and  Foe's  signature  to  the  verse  was  secured. 

This  is  the  heart  of  the  Colonial  district  for  which  Provi- 
dence is  famous,  and  of  which  a  prominent  Boston  archi- 
tect recently  wrote:  "The  group  on  College  Hill  remains 
the  most  truly  aristocratic  and  most  beautiful  examples  of 
a  style  that  in  New  England  has  never  elsewhere  flowered 
to  so  full  a  fruition  of  intelligence,  aristocracy,  and  beauty." 


R.  2  §  2.    NEW  LONDON  TO  PROVIDENCE  189 

While  the  mansions  give  evidence  of  the  generous  hospitality 
and  wealth  of  Colonial  days,  the  distinction  of  Providence  rests 
in  its  preservation  of  so  many  examples  of  all  grades  of  the 
Colonial  from  those  of  simplest  design  to  the  most  elaborate. 
A  remarkable  feature  of  Providence  is  that  "fashion  has 
never  drifted  from  its  original  moorings.  Wealth  and  the 
delight  of  old  associations,  quaintness  and  modern  elegance 
combine  to  beautify  today  the  same  sites  that  were  claimed 
by  the  aristocracy  of  the  city's  childhood."  The  steepness  of 
the  slopes  has  saved  the  residence  district  and  diverted  business 
along  the  valleys  and  out  over  the  more  level  West  Side. 

The  detached  red  brick  houses  of  Colonial  architecture  with 
marble  trimmings  and  white  wooden  pillars  usually  stand  well 
back  from  the  street.  "I  see,"  said  James  Russell  Lowell 
when  in  Providence,  "you  have  fifty  feet  of  self-respect  be- 
tween your  houses  and  the  street." 

Continuing  along  Benefit  St.  we  cross  Hopkins  St.  Here 
at  No.  9,  in  a  plain  and  unpretentious  house  built  in  1742,  lived 
Stephen  Hopkins,  nine  times  Governor  of  Rhode  Island,  Chief 
Justice,  and  Signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and 
here  on  April  6,  1776,  Washington  was  his  guest.  On  Benevo- 
lent St.,  at  the  left,  is  the  Hope  Club,  and  next  above,  the 
Crawford  Allen  House  (1820).  The  First  Congregational 
Church,  occupying  the  corner  formed  by  Benevolent  and 
Benefit  Sts.,  was  built  in  1816.  At  the  corner  of  Benefit  and 
Power  Sts.  (52  Power)  is  the  John  Brown  House  (1786),  re- 
ferred to  by  John  Quincy  Adams  as  "the  most  magnificent 
and  elegant  private  mansion  that  I  have  ever  seen  on  this 
continent."  The  house  was  designed  for  John  Brown  by  his 
brother  Joseph.  It  is  now  the  residence  of  the  capitalist  Marsden 
J.  Perry,  whose  collection  of  Shakespeariana  is  only  rivaled  by 
that  of  the  British  Museum.  Next  beyond,  at  357  Benefit  St., 
is  the  John  Carter  Brown  House  (1791).  Turning  left  into 
Williams  St.  we  pass  (No.  66)  the  Carrington  House  (1813), 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  mansions  on  the  hill.  Just 
beyond,  we  turn  left  through  a  lane,  and  again  left  into  Power 
St.,  and  right  into  Brown.  On  the  righthand  corner  is  the 
T.  P.  Ives  House  (1804)  with  an  interesting  portico. 

The  Annmary  Brown  Memorial  is  a  plain  white  marble 
building  containing  ancient  and  modern  paintings,  personal 
and  family  relics,  and  a  notable  exhibit  of  early  printing,  wood 
engraving,  and  illuminated  books.  Mr.  Alfred  W.  Pollard 
of  the  British  Museum  considers  that  this  collection  offers  a 
better  idea  of  the  development  of  early  printing  than  any  other 
in  the  world. 

At  the  end  of  the  street  is  the  Middle  Campus  of  Brown 


1 90  PROVIDENCE 

University.  Here  is  the  John  Carter  Brown  Library,  said 
to  contain  the  very  finest  collection  of  Americana  in  the  world. 
The  building  was  designed  by  Shepley,  Rutan  &  Coolidge. 

The  college  was  founded  at  Warren  in  1764  under  the  name 
of  Rhode  Island  College,  and  removed  to  Providence  in  1770. 
Nicholas  Brown  and  others  of  that  family  greatly  aided  the 
college,  and  in  1804  the  name  was  changed  in  their  honor.  We 
turn  left  into  George  St.,  and  right  into  Prospect,  past  the 
Front  Campus.  The  college  has  beautiful  memorial  gates, 
and  among  the  interesting  buildings  are  University  Hall  (1770), 
which  served  as  a  hospital  for  the  Franco-American  army  dur- 
ing a  great  part  of  the  Revolution;  Hope  College  (1822);  the 
John  Hay  Memorial  Library  of  white  marble  on  the  left;  the 
John  Carter  Brown  Library,  already  mentioned,  and  the  Carrie 
Clock  Tower,  erected  in  1904  by  an  Italian,  Paul  Bajnotti,  in 
memory  of  his  wife,  who  was  one  of  the  Brown  heiresses. 

Turning  right  into  Waterman  St.,  past  the  Historical 
Society  (No.  66)  and  Edward  Dexter  House  (1796),  the  second 
building  beyond,  we  enter  a  newer  residential  district.  We 
turn  right  into  Hope  St.  (President's  house  on  right,  on  corner 
of  Manning),  left  into  Young  Orchard  Ave.,  left  into  Cooke 
St.,  left  into  Angell  St.,  left  into  Hope  St.,  and  left  into 
Waterman  St.,  which  we  follow  for  about  one  mile.  Just  be- 
fore reaching  Red  Bridge  we  turn  left  on  East  River  St.,  and 
curve  to  the  right  downgrade  along  the  Seekonk  shore  and 
past  Blackstone  Park.  Blackstone  Park  with  a  picturesque 
ravine  and  native  foliage  but  no  artificial  attractions  runs 
along  the  shore  for  a  mile  and  a  half.  We  curve  left  upgrade 
on  Irving  Ave.,  and  immediately  right  on  Loring  Ave.,  which 
swings  around  to  the  left  into  Grotto  Ave.,  on  which  we  turn 
to  the  right,  then  left  into  Lincoln  Ave.,  and  to  the  right  on 
Blackstone  Boulevard  in  a  new  residential  district. 

On  the  right  is  Butler  Hospital  for  nervous  and  mental  dis- 
orders. It  is  richly  endowed,  and  its  grounds  (120  acres), 
laid  out  by  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  are  open  to  the  public. 
The  pathway  through  the  'grotto'  to  the  Seekonk  river  is 
particularly  attractive. 

We  turn  right  into  Rochambeau  Ave.,  which  bisects  Swan 
Point  Cemetery.  About  three  fifths  of  a  mile  further  on  we 
turn  left,  going  out  through  the  main  gates,  and  turn  southward 
along  the  Boulevard  (becoming  Butler  Ave.),  past  the  Lincoln 
School  on  the  left.  We  turn  right  into  Orchard  Ave.,  left  into 
Wayland,  and  right  into  Angell  St.  Beyond  the  Dexter 
Asylum  stone  wall  we  turn  sharp  right  into  Stimpson  Ave., 
which  curves  to  the  left,  and  then  turn  right,  on  Hope  St. 
Opposite  is  Miss  Wheeler's  School,  for  girls.  We  pass  on  the 


R.  2  §  2.    NEW  LONDON  TO  PROVIDENCE  IQI 

right  Dexter  Asylum,  founded  in  1828,  an  almshouse  for  those 
who  have  been  former  taxpayers.  It  is  the  oldest  charitable 
institution  in  the  city,  and  remarkable  in  being  one  of  the  few 
great  public  benefactions  in  the  world  that  is  self-sustaining 
for  running  expenses.  Its  attractive  and  highly  cultivated 
farm  of  some  twenty  acres,  formerly  far  out  in  the  country,  is 
now  surrounded  by  a  fashionable  residence  district. 

Just  beyond  on  the  right  is  the  side  entrance  to  the  Moses 
Brown  School,  which  has  a  spacious  and  beautiful  campus. 
Moses  Brown  was  famous  among  the  founders  of  American 
cotton  manufacturing,  and  an  influential  member  of  the  Society 
of  Friends,  by  whom  the  school  was  established.  Further 
on  we  pass  the  East  Side  High  School  (the  other  four  high 
schools  are  on  the  west  side  of  the  city)  and  Hope  Reservoir. 
Here  we  turn  right  into  Olney  St.,  which  brings  us  to  another 
of  the  new  residential  districts.  At  the  end  of  the  street  we 
turn  right  into  Arlington  Ave.,  and  again  right  into  Lloyd, 
passing  between  Dexter  Asylum  grounds  on  the  left  and  Moses 
Brown  Front  Campus  on  our  right.  Crossing  Hope  St.,  we  next 
turn  left  into  Prospect  St.,  passing  the  Christian  Science  Church 
on  our  left,  then  left  into  Angell  St.,  and  left  into  Brown  St. 

On  Angell  St.  near  Brown  St.  is  Churchill  House,  the  home 
of  the  Women's  Club.  East  of  the  college  campus,  Brook  St., 
in  a  depression,  follows  the  valley  of  a  former  stream  along 
which  were  the  quarters  of  the  numerous  slaves,  and  today 
many  negro  dwellings  still  exist  in  this  region. 

At  the  right,  on  Meeting  and  Gushing  Sts.,  are  the  five 
buildings  of  the  Women's  College  in  Brown  University.  We 
turn  left  into  Bowen  St.,  cross  Prospect  St.,  proceed  down  the 
hill,  and  turn  left  into  Congdon  St.  From  Prospect  Terrace 
with  its  fine  elms,  on  the  right,  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  city 
below  the  slope  of  College  Hill  and  out  over  the  West  Side. 
We  continue  down  Congdon  St.,  turn  right  into  Angell,  and 
cross  Benefit  St.  diagonally  to  the  left,  turning  down  Water- 
man St.,  across  Post  Office  Square  to  Exchange  Place. 

THE  WEST   SIDE  TOUR. 

For  Roger  Williams  Park  and  the  objects  of  interest  on  the 
West, Side  we  start  northwest  on  Dorrance  St.,  turn  left  into 
Fountain  St.,  and  cross  La  Salle  Square  diagonally  to  the 
right,  into  -Broadway.  The  interesting  district  of  'Little 
Italy'  may  be  reached  by  any  cross  street  to  the  right  from 
Broadway.  One  mile  further  on  we  turn  left  into  Tobey  St., 
left  into  Westminster,  and  right  into  Parade,  past  Dexter 
Training  Ground.  At  the  State  Armory  on  Cranston  St.,  said 
to  contain  the  largest  hall  in  New  England,  we  turn  left  and 


192  PROVIDENCE 

immediately  right  into  Dexter,  left  into  Sprague,  and  right 
into  Elmwood  Ave.,  which  we  follow  to  Roger  Williams  Park, 
noting  the  Columbus  Statue  on  the  way  and  a  glimpse  of  the 
great  silverware  and  bronze-casting  establishment  of  the 
Gorham  Manufacturing  Company  beyond. 

Roger  Williams  Park  is  one  of  the  finest  city  parks  in  the 
country.  It  comprises  432  acres  of  forest  and  hills  with  a 
natural  chain  of  lakes,  and  about  nine  miles  of  drives.  The 
original  portion  of  this  park  was  deeded  to  the  city  by  Betsy 
Williams,  a  direct  descendant  of  Roger  Williams.  Her  house, 
built  1775,  stands  in  the  grounds  and  contains  articles  of 
historic  interest.  There  are  also  a  casino,  a  natural  history 
museum,  with  valuable  collections,  tennis  courts,  and  amuse- 
ments for  children. 

Entering  the  park  gates  we  swing  to  the  right  past  the  Casino, 
the  Williams  Statue,  and  the  Betsy  Williams  Cottage;  turn 
right  downhill  and  immediately  to  the  right  across  a  bridge. 
Beyond  a  second  bridge  we  curve  left,  passing  the  boathouse 
on  left,  and  cross  another  bridge  to  the  island,  where  there  are 
lovely  rose  gardens  to  be  explored.  Keeping  the  Superintend- 
ent's house  and  gardens  on  our  right,  we  curve  left  and  cross  a 
fourth  bridge,  immediately  turning  right  along  the  park  boule- 
vard. Seven  tenths  of  a  mile  further  on  we  turn  left  into  Nor- 
wood Ave.  We  turn  right  into  Broad  St.,  which  we  follow,  keep- 
ing left  at  a  fork  just  beyond,  past  the  entrance  to  Rhodes  Place 
with  its  enormous  dance  hall  and  canoe  clubs  and  boathouses, 
to  the  bridge  in  old  Pawtuxet.  To  the  right  are  the  falls  of 
the  Pawtuxet  river.  Pawtuxet  Neck  is  across  the  cove  to  the 
left.  The  road  straight  ahead  leads  to  Metropolitan  Park 
Reservations  on  the  bay,  and  the  historic  Gaspee  Point  (p  183). 
We  turn  back  two  blocks,  right  into  Sheldon  St.,  left  into 
Fort  Ave.,  jog  left  into  Ocean  St.,  and  immediately  right 
into  Narragansett  Boulevard  around  Stillhouse  Cove,  which  is 
now  a  part  of  the  Metropolitan  Park  System.  On  the  right  is 
the  Rhode  Island  Yacht  Club,  and  beyond  are  the  Edgewood 
and  Washington  Park  Yacht  Clubs.  Edgewood  is  a  fashion- 
able residence  district  between  Roger  Williams  Park  and  the 
bay.  One  mile  further  and  two  blocks  to  the  right  is  Edge- 
wood  Beach,  the  busiest  bathing  place  in  the  State.  We  turn 
right  into  New  York  Ave.,  curving  left  around  base  of  Fort 
Independence  (1775).  There  is  a  magnificent  view  from  the 
top  of  the  fort;  in  the  foreground  is  the  new  City  Quay  and 
the  largest  precipitation  plant  and  sewage  disposal  establish- 
ment in  the  country,  more  interesting  to  the  tourist  than  might 
be  imagined.  To  the  north  is  the  State  Pier  and  a  fine  pros- 
pect over  the  harbor;  directly  opposite,  Kettle  Point  and  Bar- 


R.  2  §  3-     PROVIDENCE  TO  BOSTON  193 

rington  Parkway;  and  to  the  south,  Narragansett  Bay  and  its 
many  islands,  and  boats  by  the  thousands. 

Returning  via  New  York  Ave.,  we  turn  right  into  Aliens 
Ave.,  past  warehouses  and  piers.  A  mile  and  a  half  beyond 
we  turn  left  into  Blackstone  St.,  right  into  Eddy,  and  left 
through  the  gates  of  Rhode  Island  Hospital,  the  second 
largest  in  New  England.  We  pass  through  the  extensive  and 
beautiful  hospital  grounds,  turn  left  into  Lockwood  St.,  and 
right  into  Plain  St.  to  Hayward  Park.  Curving  left  around 
the  park,  we  take  Beacon  Ave.  to  Broad  St.  with  the  Y.M.C.A. 
on  the  left.  We  turn  right,  passing  St.  Francis  Xavier  Acad- 
emy, and  just  before  reaching  the  Beneficent  Congregational 
Church,  erected  in  1810  and  familiarly  known  as  'Round  Top,' 
we  turn  sharp  left  into  Weybosset  by  reverse  fork.  At 
Cathedral  Square  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  SS. 
Peter  and  Paul,  and  the  statue  of  Thomas  A.  Doyle,  for  eigh- 
teen years  Mayor  of  Providence,  to  whose  efforts  the  city 
water  and  sewer  systems  are  due.  We  turn  right,  across  West- 
minster St.,  through  Jackson,  right  into  Washington  past  the 
Y.W.C.A.  on  the  righthand  corner;  on  the  left  is  the  fine  new 
building  of  the  Order  of  Elks,  and  next  to  it  the  Providence 
Public  Library,  housed  in  an  Italian  Renaissance  building 
erected  in  1900  at  a  cost  of  $500,000.  Straight  ahead  is  Ex- 
change Place. 

From  Providence,  State  Roads  lead  to  Taunton  and  Plym- 
outh, Route  16;  Fall  River,  New  Bedford,  and  Buzzards  Bay, 
Route  17;  Newport,  Route  18;  and  Woonsocket,  Worcester, 
and  Vermont,  Route  19. 


R.  2  §  3.  Providence  to  Boston.  45.0  m. 

Via  PAWTUCKET,  NORTH  ATTLEBORO,  WALPOLE,  and  DEDHAM. 

This  route,  following  State  Roads,  marked  in  blue  from  the 
Massachusetts  line,  just  outside  Pawtucket,  goes  by  way  of 
North  Attleboro,  a  prosperous  jewelry  town,  and  continues 
through  farming  country  to  Walpole  and  Norwood,  a  book- 
making  town;  thence  through  historic  and  residential  Ded- 
ham,  and  by  the  parkways  to  Boston.  An  optional  route 
leads  through  Mansfield  and  Sharon  (p  202). 

The  direct  route  from  Providence  to  Pawtucket  via  North 
Main  St.  and  Pawtucket  Ave.  is  rendered  disagreeable  by  the 
cobblestones,  car  tracks,  and  heavy  traffic.  The  following, 
via  the  Blackstone  Boulevard,  is  but  little  further  and  will  be 
found  much  more  attractive. 

From  Exchange  Place  pass  between  the  Federal  Building 
and  Central  Fire  Station,  crossing  Post  Office  Square,  and  con- 


1 94  PROVIDENCE— NORTH  ATTLEBORO 

tinue  directly  ahead  through  Waterman  St.,  going  up  the  hill 
and  passing  Brown  University  on  the  right,  to  the  intersec- 
tion of  Butler  Ave.  Turn  to  the  left  on  Butler  Ave.  and  con- 
tinue past  Blackstone  Park  into  Blackstone  Boulevard.  Pass 
Butler  Hospital  grounds  and  the  Swan  Point  Cemetery  on  the 
right,  enter  East  Ave.  and  follow  it  over  the  long  steep  hill  to 
Main  St.,  in  the  center  of  Pawtucket. 


4.5  PAWTUCKET.  Pop  51,600  (1910),  55,335  (1915);  one  third 
foreign-born.  Providence  Co.  Settled  1670.  Indian  name, 
"at  the  little  falls."  Mfg.  thread,  cotton  and  woolen  goods, 
textile  and  other  machinery,  tennis  rackets,  paper,  spools, 
soap,  celluloid,  and  clocks;  bleaching  and  dyeing. 

Pawtucket,  a  thriving  city  of  diversified  manufacturing  in- 
terests, is  on  the  Blackstone  river,  which  below  the  falls  here 
is  known  as  the  Pawtucket,  or  Seekonk.  J.  &  P.  Coats,  Inc., 
thread  plant  is  the  largest  concern  in  the  city,  employing 
about  2000  hands.  The  Lorraine  Manufacturing  Company, 
the  Jenckes  Spinning  Company,  the  Royal  Weaving  Com- 
pany, the  Hope  Webbing  Company,  the  United  States  Finish- 
ing Company,  and  the  Goff  braid  mills  are  textile  manu- 
facturers or  dyers.  Fales  &  Jenks  and  Potter  &  Johnston 
manufacture  textile  machinery.  The  Phillips  Insulated  Wire 
Company  and  the  Slater  mills  are  also  large  plants.  The 
Narragansett  Machine  Company  was  the  pioneer  in  this 
country  in  the  manufacture  of  gymnasium  apparatus. 

Under  the  Main  Street  stone  bridge  are  the  falls  which  gave 
the  city  its  name.  President  Dwight  said  at  the  beginning  of 
the  last  century:  "Directly  under  the  bridge  commences  a 
romantic  fall  which,  extending  obliquely  down  the  river,  fur- 
nishes a  number  of  excellent  mill-seats.  Of  this  advantage  the 
inhabitants  have  availed  themselves.  There  is  probably  no 
spot  in  New  England,  of  the  same  extent,  in  which  the  same 
quantity  or  variety  of  manufacturing  business  is  carried  on." 

The  most  interesting  old  landmark  in  Pawtucket  is  the  stone 
Slater  Mill  where  in  1793  Samuel  Slater  established  the 
cotton  industry  of  America.  Slater  Memorial  Park,  two  miles 
east  of  Main  Street  bridge,  is  an  attractive  pleasure  ground 
containing  the  historic  Daggett  mansion.  Central  Falls,  ad- 
joining Pawtucket  on  the  north  and  to  all  appearances  a 
part  of  it,  is  a  congested  little  city  of  23,708  people,  and  Valley 
Falls  with  5000  to  6000  more  is  just  beyond. 

The  first  settler  of  Pawtucket  is  said  to  have  been  Joseph  Jenks,  an 
iron  manufacturer.  Six  years  later  the  little  hamlet  was  the  scene  of 
an  Indian  raid  in  which  Captain  Pierce  and  his  seventy  men  were 
killed.  The  town  was  set  off  from  Rehoboth  in  1812. 

Samuel  Slater,  "the  father  of  cotton  manufacture  in  America," 
came  to  Pawtucket  in  1790,  and  with  the  help  of  David  Wilkinson 


R.  2  §  3-     PROVIDENCE  TO  BOSTON  IQ5 

and  Sylvanus  Brown  constructed  in  the  Slater  Mill,  still  standing  on 
the  Blackstone,  the  first  successful  cotton-spinning  machinery  made  in 
America.  In  1814  John  Thorpe,  a  Pawtucket  mechanic,  invented  the 
power  loom.  Stephen  Jenks  made  arms  for  the  Continental  troops 
during  the  Revolution  and  in  1811  took  a  contract  from  the  govern- 
ment to  make  10,000  muskets.  President  Madison  at  his  second 
inauguration  on  March  4,  1813,  wore  a  suit  of  woolen  cloth  made  in  a 
Pawtucket  factory.  It  was  the  first  time  that  a  high  public  official 
had  worn  a  suit  of  American-made  goods,  and  the  news  was  spread 
broadcast  to  boom  Pawtucket  industries. 

Continue  down  Main  St.  through  the  heart  of  the  business 
section  of  Pawtucket.  As  we  cross  the  bridge  we  have  a  good 
view  of  the  falls  and  gain  a  striking  impression  of  the  industrial 
activity  of  the  place  from  the  huge  mills  which  line  both  sides 
of  the  river.  The  sole  fatality  of  Dorr's  Rebellion  of  1842 
(p  187)  occurred  during  a  riot  on  the  Main  Street  bridge.  The 
Slater  mill  is  conspicuous,  upstream  on  the  left. 

After  crossing  the  bridge,  fork  left  with  trolley  and  follow 
Broadway  across  R.R.  and  Massachusetts  State  Line,  where 
blue  markers  indicate  the  route  to 

12.S  NORTH  ATTLEBORO.  Alt  195  ft.  Pop  (twp)  9562  (1910), 
9398  (1915).  Bristol  Co.  Settled  1640.  Mfg.  jewelry, 
paper  boxes,  and  machinery. 

In  the  midst  of  a  pleasant  rolling  country  North  Attleboro, 
in  spite  of  its  numerous  factories,  is  a  pleasant  little  town 
steadily  planning  for  progress  in  attractiveness  as  well  as  in 
business.  With  Attleboro  (p  202)  it  forms  a  part  of  the 
largest  jewelry  center  of  the  United  States,  with  over  sixty 
firms  engaged  in  this  industry. 

The  Richards  Memorial  Library  is  a  cozy,  ivy-covered 
building;  the  Oldtown  Congregational  Church,  and  the  Bap- 
tist Church  on  the  Common,  are  of  the  simple,  dignified  meet- 
ing house  style.  On  Main  St.  diagonally  opposite  the  old 
burial  ground  is  the  site  of  the  Woodcock  Garrison,  where 
John  Woodcock,  the  first  white  settler,  built  his  home  in 
1669.  About  1770  the  Woodcock  Garrison  was  purchased  by 
Israel  Hatch  and  kept  open  for  many  years  as  a  public  house. 
Here  stopped  Washington,  President  Monroe,  and  Lafayette. 
A  signboard  used  on  the  Hatch  House,  and  many  family  relics, 
are  still  carefully  preserved. 

This  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  Commonwealth,  having  been 
settled  in  1640,  and  was  known  originally  as  the  Rehoboth  North 
Purchase  (1643),  which  included  Attleboro  and  Cumberland  and 
Pawtucket.  The  first  Attleboro  burial  ground,  where  the  earliest 
settlers  were  buried,  and  the  region  of  the  bloody  Pierce's  Fight  in 
King  Philip's  War  (1676)  are  both  in  North  Attleboro. 

There  are  many  Attleboros,  due  to  the  development  of  centers  of 
population  and  industry  around  waterpowers.  The  old  Foxboro  poet 
and  peddler  Daddy  Martin,  narrating  the  growth  of  the  town,  recog- 
nized this  feature: 


196  NORTH    ATTLEBORO— NORWOOD 

"The  shoddy  mill  is  running  still, 

South  Attleboro  is  growing. 
A  new  house  built,  another  will 

Ere  long  be  upward  going." 

Washington  Street  is  the  old  Post  Road  which  followed  the  course  of 
the  Indian  trail.  It  has  been  the  chief  route  of  travel  north  and  south 
from  Massachusetts  to  Narragansett  Bay  for  hundreds  of  years. 

When  in  1802  the  Turnpike  was  built,  the  curious  rock  formation 
of  Red  Rock  Hill  was  uncovered.  It  attracted  the  attention  of  Pro- 
fessor Hitchcock  of  Amherst  and  finally  led  to  the  geological  survey 
of  the  whole  State.  This  was  the  first  government  survey  of  an  entire 
State  ever  made. 

Following  the  blue  markers  through  Plainville  (14.0)  the 
route  turns  right  at  the  four  corners  into 

19.0  WRENTHAM.  Alt  240  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1743  (1910),  2414  (1915). 
Norfolk  Co.  Settled  1673.  Mfg.  straw  hats  and  tools. 

Wrentham  is  a  quiet  village  with  a  lovely  Green  in  the 
midst  of  a  lake-studded  region.  The  beautiful  ponds  in  the 
vicinity  were  once  the  favorite  resort  of  the  Indians  of  Massa- 
soit  and  King  Philip.  The  best  known  are  King  Philip's 
Pond  and  Wollomonapoag. 

For  many  years  Helen  Keller  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  John  Macy 
(Miss  Sullivan)  have  made  their  home  here  in  a  simple  village 
house.  Miss  Keller,  deaf  and  blind  since  babyhood,  under  the 
tutelage  of  her  wonderful  teacher,  now  Mrs.  Macy,  and 
further  inspired  by  Mr.  Macy,  has  become  through  her  writ- 
ings and  lectures  a  figure  of  national  interest. 

Wrentham  and  the  neighboring  town  of  Franklin  originated  from  an 
offshoot  of  the  settlement  at  Dedham.  An  early  settlement  at  Wol- 
lomonapoag was  incorporated  in  1673  and  called  Wrentham  because 
some  of  the  families  came  from  the  English  town  of  that  name. 

The  industry  of  straw  weaving  was  started  here  more  than  a  century 
ago.  In  1798  one  Mrs.  Naomi  Whipple  with  characteristic  New 
England  enterprise  unbraided  some  European  hats  and  learned  the 
secret  of  making  straw  braid.  From  this  beginning  Wrentham  bonnets 
soon  acquired  a  wide  reputation,  partly  because  they  were  exploited 
by  the  young  ladies  of  Day's  Academy,  a  'female  academy'  here, 
which  at  this  time  had  an  extensive  patronage. 

The  route  now  passes  through  a  hilly  and  rather  fertile 
country,  though  much  overgrown  with  underbrush.  In  the 
Pondville  district  we  pass  the  large  duck  farm  of  the  Weber 
brothers,  extending  for  many  acres  on  both  sides  of  the  road. 
There  are  often  as  many  as  20,000  ducks  here. 

25.7  WALPOLE.  Alt  177  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4892.  Norfolk  Co.  Settled 
1647.  Mfg.  leather,  rubber  goods,  machinery,  paper  prod- 
ucts, and  hospital  supplies. 

The  pretty  tree-shaded  village  Green  with  a  bandstand  and 
fountain  lies  between  the  old  Unitarian  meeting  house,  on  the 
left,  and  the  Methodist,  on  the  right,  of  later  date.  The 


R.  2  §  3.     PROVIDENCE  TO  BOSTON  197 

Public  Library,  given  by  Andrew  Carnegie,  F.  W.  Bird,  and 
Mary  Bird,  is  a  handsome  little  building  nearby. 

Settlers  came  to  the  neighborhood  from  Dedham  in  1647,  and  for 
many  years  Walpole  was  a  part  of  the  older  town.  It  was  incorporated 
in  1724  and  named  in  honor  of  Sir  Robert  Walpole,  then  at  the  height 
of  his  fame  as  a  statesman  in  England. 

Note.  At  East  Walpole,  three  miles  east,  is  the  plant  of 
Bird  &  Son,  important  makers  of  the  wellknown  Neponset 
building  papers,  shingles,  and  roofing  materials,  established  in 
1795.  The  Bird  family  has  always  been  prominent  in  the 
town  and  has  done  much  to  promote  its  welfare.  Charles 
Sumner  Bird,  the  present  head  of  the  firm,  one  of  the  leaders 
of  the  Progressive  Party,  has  long  been  a  prominent  figure  in 
the  public  life  of  the  State.  Other  concerns  at  East  Walpole 
are  the  American  Glue  Company,  and  Hollingsworth  &  Vose 
Company,  manufacturers  of  paper. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill  (28.5),  just  before  entering  Norwood, 
is  Hawes  Brook  and  an  ancient  mill  pond.  At  the  top  of  a 
rather  steep  hill,  on  the  corner  of  Chestnut  St.,  is  the  home  of 
Herbert  Plimpton,  of  the  Plimpton  Press.  The  view  here, 
to  the  southeast,  is  bounded  by  the  Sharon  hills,  five  or  six 
miles  away.  In  the  valley  are  the  marshes  of  the  Neponset 
river  with  the  ink  mills  of  Geo.  Morrill  &  Co.,  one  of  a  chain 
of  plants  from  Boston  to  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Just  beyond  is  Berwick  Park,  presented  to  the  town  by 
James  Berwick.  A  club  house  and  athletic  grounds  are  es- 
pecially for  the  use  of  the  employees  of  the  Norwood  Press,  in 
which  Mr.  Berwick  has  a  large  interest.  Opposite  the  park  is 
Mr.  Berwick's  estate  with  some  rich  flower  gardens  and  a 
long,  low  house  with  a  French  roof.  Beyond  Berwick  Park, 
to  the  southeast,  are  the  brick  buildings  of  the  Norwood  Press, 
easily  recognized  by  the  clock  tower.  Just  before  reaching 
Main  St.  we  pass  the  George  Morrill  Library. 


300     NORWOOD.    Alt  149 ft.    Pop  (twp)  8014  (1910),  10,977  (1915). 
Settled  1730.    Mfg.  ink,  leather,  iron  products;  book-making. 

Norwood  has  been  for  many  years  a  book-making  center. 
.Here  are  located  the  Norwood  and  the  Plimpton  Presses,  two 
of  the  largest  in  the  country,  and  the  activities  of  the  town  are 
centered  about  these  establishments.  The  Norwood  Press,  on 
Main  St.,  makes  a  specialty  of  scientific  and  text  books,  using 
twelve  tons  of  paper  a  day  in  the  manufacture  of  700,000  books 
a  year,  and  employing  over  600  people.  The  Plimpton  Press, 
opposite  the  railway  station,  established  by  Herbert  M. 
Plimpton  of  Norwood,  also  does  complete  book  work  of  almost 


198  NORWOOD— DEDHAM 

every  description.  The  other  industries  of  the  town,  ink 
factories  and  tanneries,  are  related  to  book-making.  The 
tannery  of  the  Smith  Company  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world. 
These  industries  call  for  a  good  deal  of  highly  skilled  labor, 
reflected  in  the  generally  prosperous  aspect  of  the  place  and 
the  number  of  well-to-do  homes.  Norwood  has  made  a  num- 
ber of  striking  innovations  in  town  government  and  'hires'  a 
Town  Manager  to  look  after  its  affairs.  He  is  required  to  be 
a  technical  engineer,  and  is  the  purchasing  agent. 

A  mile  out  of  Norwood  we  reach  a  stretch  of  new  road  from 
which  there  is  a  splendid  view  of  Purgatory  Swamp,  Ponka- 
pog,  and  the  Blue  Hills,  with  Great  Blue  Hill  to  the  left. 
The  new  country  home  of  Cameron  Forbes,  former  Governor- 
general  of  the  Philippines,  has  been  recently  built  on  the  hill- 
side among  the  cedars  and  birches. 

34.0  DEDHAM.  Alt  119ft.  Pop  (twp)  9284  (1910),  11,043  (1915). 
County-seat  of  Norfolk  Co.  Settled  1636.  Indian  name 
Tist.  Mfg.  woolens,  carpets,  and  pottery. 

Dedham  is  one  of  the  pleasant  residential  and  historic  towns 
in  Boston's  vicinity.  The  beauty  of  the  environs  has  attracted 
prominent  Boston  families  ever  since  its  "twenty-two  proprie- 
tors from  Watertown  and  Roxbury"  took  possession  in  1636. 

Along  High  St.,  leading  westward  from  Dedham  Square 
through  the  center  of  the  village,  are  most  of  the  interesting 
buildings.  On  the  corner  of  Church  St.  to  the  left,  the  low 
brick  structure  with  arched  portal  is  the  home  of  the  Dedham 
Historical  Society,  one  of  the  oldest  and  best  in  the  vicinity  of 
Boston,  with  a  large  library  and  collection.  A  few  rods  to  the 
west,  and  opposite,  is  the  Dr.  Nathaniel  Ames  house,  built 
in  1772.  Just  off  High  St.,  in  Ames  St.,  is  the  site  of  the 
Woodward  Tavern,  where  the  Suffolk  Convention  of  Sept.  6, 
1774,  was  held.  Three  days  later,  the  famous  Suffolk  Re- 
solves, partly  drawn  up  here,  were  adopted  at  an  adjourned 
meeting  in  the  Vose  house  at  Milton  (R.  30). 

Ames  Street  leads  across  the  river  to  the  right.  A  most 
interesting  landmark,  the  old  'Powder  House,'  stands  on  a 
high  ledge,  just  back  of  the  Boat  House,  across  the  Charles, 
close  to  the  street.  It  was  built  by  the  town  in  1766  "on  a 
Great  Rock  in  Aaron  Fuller's  Land."  Here  is  the  four-arch 
bridge;  by  the  Pumping  Station,  further  up,  is  the  three-arch 
Cart  Bridge,  and  almost  in  Needham,  the  one-arch  bridge. 

At  the  Church  Green  on  High  St.  is  a  tablet  which  marks 
the  site  of  the  first  free  public  school  to  be  maintained  by 
general  taxation  of  which  there  is  a  record,  established  by  a 
vote  in  town  meeting  assembled,  Jan.  i,  1644-45.  A  stone 
nearby  bears  the  following  inscription: 


R.  2  §  3.     PROVIDENCE  TO  BOSTON  199 

"The  Pillar  of  Liberty  Erected  by  the  Sons  of  Liberty  in  this  Vicinity. 

Laus  Deo  Regi  et  Imunitatm 
Autoribusq,  maxime  Patrono 
Pitt,  qui  Rempub.  rursum  evulsit 

Faucibus  Orci." 

This  monument  is  the  only  one  extant  which  was  erected  by 
that  early  patriotic  association,  the  Sons  of  Liberty;  the  in- 
scription was  incised  July  n  or  12,  1766.  A  wooden  bust,  on 
a  wooden  column  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  of  the  'Great  Com- 
moner,' Pitt,  formerly  surmounted  this  stone.  On  the  Green 
stands  the  meeting  house  of  the  First  Church.  This  is  the 
third  building,  somewhat  remodeled,  on  the  site  of  the 
original  edifice  (1638).  In  this  house  all  the  civil  and  religious 
meetings  of  the  town  were  held  until  the  building  of  the  first 
town  house  nearby  in  1828.  At  this  point,  just  beyond  Ames 
St.  on  the  right,  is  the  handsome  Samuel  Haven  house,  built 
in  1795.  The  beautiful  elms,  brought  from  England,  were  set 
out  by  Judge  Haven  in  1789.  Opposite  these  houses  and  the 
Church  Green  is  the  modern  granite  Court  House,  the  second 
since  Dedham  became  the  shire  town  of  the  county  (1793). 
The  Registry  Building  opposite  was  completed  in  1905  at  a 
cost  of  $350,000.  The  Ames  homestead,  where  Fisher  Ames 
was  born  and  died,  formerly  on  this  site,  has  been  moved  back 
to  the  banks  of  the  Charles  river  and  remodeled.  It  is  now 
called  Three  Rivers  and  is  the  summer  home  of  F.  J.  Stimson, 
'J.  S.  of  Dale,'  ambassador  to  the  Argentine  Republic. 

On  the  right  of  High  St.,  beyond  the  Orthodox  Church, 
is  the  fine  old  Dexter  house,  built  about  1762  by  Samuel 
Dexter.  This  is  one  of  the  finest  examples  of  Colonial  archi- 
tecture in  the  vicinity  of  Boston,  a  third  story  has  been 
added.  General  Washington  spent  the  night  of  April  4, 
1776,  here  on  his  way  to  New  York  after  the  evacuation  of 
Boston. 

Continuing  westward  toward  Needham  we  pass  the  pump- 
ing station,  also  the  house  where  Arthur  Foote,  the  composer, 
lived  before  moving  to  Brookline.  A  little  to  the  left  on 
Chestnut  St.  is  the  home  of  George  Fred  Williams,  the  'Sage 
of  Dedham,'  the  original  Bryanite  of  Massachusetts,  who 
recently  achieved  further  distinction  as  the  'Albanian  Byron' 
while  Minister  to  Greece  and  Montenegro. 

On  High  St.,  west  of  Chestnut  St.,  is  the  Dowse  house, 
better  known  as  the  Quincy  house  from  its  occupancy  by 
Edmund  Quincy.  It  was  built  about  1800  by  Edward 
Dowse,  a  Boston  merchant  who  amassed  a  fortune  in  the 
China  trade.  James  Russell  Lowell,  who  often  visited  Quincy 
here,  christened  the  place  Bankside,  and  wrote: 


200  DEDHAM 

"You  are  still  lovely  in  your  new-leaved  green; 
The  brimming  river  soothes  his  grassy  shore, 
The  bridge  is  there,  the  rock  with  lichens  hoar, 
And  the  same  shadows  on  the  water  lean, 
Outlasting  us." 

Further  on  we  pass  the  polo  grounds  at  Karlstein,  also  some 
fine  old  houses.  One  across  the  Charles,  occupied  by  the  late 
Albert  W.  Nickerson,  on  Motley's  Pond,  is  easily  the  finest 
and  largest  house  in  Dedham.  It  is  nearly  on  the  site  of  John 
Lothrop  Motley's  boyhood  home.  Village  Avenue  is  a  fine 
residential  street.  At  Court  and  Church  Sts.  stood  the  house 
in  which  Horace  Mann  had  his  law  offices  (1828-35). 

In  East  Dedham,  which  lies  to  the  northeast  of  the  Square, 
a  mile  off  the  main  route,  is  the  site  of  the  first  mill  built  for 
the  waterpower  furnished  by  Mother  Brook,  produced  by  the 
pioneer  canal  of  the  continent  (1639).  This  first  instance  of 
the  utilization  of  waterpower  in  New  England  is  worth  con- 
sideration. East  Brook  flows  through  East  Dedham  into  the 
Neponset  river,  which  lies  about  sixty  feet  below  the  drainage 
basin  of  the  Charles  river  at  Dedham.  The  connection  of 
the  Charles  river  and  East  Brook  by  this  canal  furnished  a 
head  of  power  that  has  been  profitably  used  ever  since.  The 
original  mudsill  at  the  entrance  still  remains.  In  all,  be- 
tween Dedham  and  Hyde  Park  there  are  three  mill  privileges 
depending  on  the  water  of  Mother  Brook,  as  the  canal  is 
called. 

The  Dedham  Pottery,  formerly  the  Chelsea  Pottery,  is  a 
brick  building  back  from  High  St.,  west  of  Boyden  Square,  East 
Dedham.  It  is  operated  by  a  son  of  the  inventor,  William  A. 
Robertson.  The  process  is  a  secret  one, — producing  a  rather 
heavy  blue  and  white  ware  with  a  decided  crackle,  the  only 
successful  imitation  of  the  old  Chinese  crackle  ware. 

To  the  right  of  Dedham  Square,  at  the  junction  of  Eastern 
Ave.  and  East  St.,  is  the  Fairbanks  house,  the  oldest  in  Ded- 
ham, a  part  of  which  is  said  to  have  been  built  soon  after 
Jonathan  Fairbanks  came  to  Dedham  in  1637.  Years  ago  an 
Indian  arrow  projected  from  the  roof,  and  whence  it  came  no 
one  knows.  One  day  it  was  pulled  out  in  re-shingling  and 
disappeared.  By  some  this  is  thought  to  be  the  oldest  frame 
homestead  in  America.  It  has  ever  since  been  in  the  family, 
except  during  1896-1903,  and  is  now  its  'historic  home.'  On 
East  St.  is  the  famous  Avery  Oak,  older  than  the  town. 
The  trunk  of  the  huge  tree  is  over  sixteen  feet  in  circumference. 
The  builders  of  the  frigate  "Constitution"  tried  to  buy  this 
oak  and  offered  seventy  dollars,  a  very  large  sum  for  that  time, 
but  the  owner  would  not  sell.  It  is  now  the  property  of  the 
Dedham  Historical  Society. 


R.   2   §  3-     PROVIDENCE  TO  BOSTON 


Note.  This  eastward  road,  Route  21,  goes  to  Ponkapog,  a 
very  beautiful  lane  through  the  woods  of  Green  Lodge  and 
arches  of  thickly  set  willows. 

Dedham  dates  from.  September,  1635,  the  same  day  that  Concord 
was  incorporated.  It  was  settled  by  twenty  proprietors,  who  moved 
here  from  Watertown  and  Roxbury. 

They  gave  their  new  home  the  quaint  name  of  Contentment,  only 
to  change  it  to  that  of  the  English  town  of  Dedham,  Essex,  in  1636. 


THE  FAIRBANKS   HOUSE,    1636,    THE    OLDEST    WOODEN   HOUSE    IN   AMERICA 

Major   Lusher,   one   of   these   pioneers,    was   a   representative   to   the 
General  Court,  whose  influence  is  summed  up  by  a  local  bard: 
"When  Lusher  was  in  office,  all  things  went  well; 
But  how  they  go  since  it  shames  us  to  tell." 

The  first  white  man  who  fell  in  King  Philip's  War  was  shot  in  Ded- 
ham woods,  though  the  village  was  never  attacked.  Fisher  Ames,  a 
statesman  of  the  Revolution,  was  born  here  in  1758. 

The  highway  over  which  we  have  been  traveling  between  Providence 
and  Boston  formed  a  part  of  the  Post  Road  from  Portsmouth,  N.H., 
to  the  Virginias,  over  which  the  Dedham  authorities  claim  that  mail 
service  was  never  suspended  from  May  i,  1693,  when  the  first  letters 
were  carried  through,  until  the  railroad  took  over  the  service. 

From  Dedham  the  direct  route  to  Boston  follows  Washington 
St.  to  Forest  Hills  (39.0),  turning  left  under  the  Elevated  and 
R.R.  viaducts,  and  along  the  Arborway  (R.  21),  Jamaicaway, 
Riverway,  and  Fenway  to  Commonwealth  Ave.  and  Copley 
or  Park  Squares.  An  alternate  route,  almost  as  direct,  turns 
right  from  High  St.  on  Ames  St.,  crossing  the  Charles  river, 
and  continuing  on  Spring  St.  and  Center  St.,  to  Jamaica 
Pond,  where  it  joins  Jamaicaway  and  the  above  route. 

45.0     BOSTON  (R.  20). 


202  PAWTUCKET— CANTON 

Note.  From  Pawtucket  an  alternative  route  leads  via 
Cottage  St.  to  Mansfield,  Sharon,  and  Boston  (53.5).  This 
route  is  devious  and  the  roads  are  not  especially  good. 

12.0  ATTLEBORO.  Alt  137  ft.  Pop  (twp)  16,215  (1910),  18,480 
(1915).  Bristol  Co.  Settled  1694.  Mfg.  jewelry,  clocks, 
buttons,  and  cotton  goods. 

The  Attleboros,  with  Providence,  constitute  the  largest 
jewelry  center  in  the  United  States,  the  jewelry  district  of 
New  Jersey  and  New  York  ranking  second.  The  Attleboros 
have  about  one  hundred  jewelry  factories  and  ten  silversmith 
establishments,  employing  5000  men.  In  1905  the  total  fac- 
tory products  were  worth  $5, 544, 285,  more  than  half  jewelry. 

Attleboro  was  named  for  the  English  Attleboro,  whence  some  of  the 
early  settlers  had  come,  and  a  small  stream  here  is  called  Bungay  after 
a  river  in  the  English  town.  The  first  manufacturer  of  jewelry  was  a 
Frenchman  who  had  a  small  shop  here  late  in  the  eighteenth  century. 
In  1810  Colonel  Obed  Robinson  made  jewelry  at  Robinsonville,  a  suburb, 
and  later  this  became  the  firm  of  Daniel  Evans  and  Son,  manufac- 
turers of  gilt  buttons,  etc.  About  1845  plated  jewelry  became  im- 
portant, and  this  was  the  foundation  of  its  present  varied  and  artistic 
output  of  gold,  silver,  and  enamel. 

At  Mansfield  (23.0),  on  Route  23,  turn  left  at  the  Tavern 
and  cross  R.R.,  following  trolley  to  Foxboro  (26.5),  and  there 
turn  right  at  the  Green  to 

32.0  SHARON.  Alt  234  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2310  (1910),  2468  (1915). 
Norfolk  Co.  Settled  1637.  Mfg.  cutlery  and  trowels. 

Sharon  is  a  quiet  village  in  the  pine  woods  on  a  hilly  plateau. 
Its  bracing  air  has  made  it  popular  as  a  health  resort,  and  a 
summer  residence  for  Boston  and  Providence  business  men. 
Lake  Massapoag,  a  pretty  pond,  is  at  Sharon  Heights.  Cobb's 
Tavern  on  Bay  St.  is  a  hostelry  of  stage  coach  days,  where 
Daniel  Webster  often  stopped  to  relax. 

The  road  follows  the  trolley  through  the  woodland  to 

35.8  CANTON.  Alt  113  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4797  (1910),  5623  (1915). 
Norfolk  Co.  Inc.  1797.  Mfg.  cotton  and  woolen  goods, 
jackets,  patent  leather,  carriage  cloth,  stove  polish,  fire  hose, 
fish  lines,  shovels,  and  iron  goods. 

This  pleasant  manufacturing  village  is  the  older  part  of  the 
town  of  Stoughton,  divided  in  1797,  though  strangely  enough 
it  then  took  a  new  name.  Paul  Revere,  the  hero  of  Lexing- 
ton, here  set  up  the  first  copper  rolling  mill  in  the  country 
(1801),  and  a  foundry  for  casting  bells,  many  of  which  still 
hang  today  in  the  old  meeting  houses. 

Beyond  Canton  the  road  passes  through  Ponkapog  (38.8), 
joining  Route  32,  leading  to  BOSTON  (53.5)  by  way  of  Great 
Blue  Hill  and  Mattapan. 


R.  3.     NEW  YORK  to  BOSTON.  252.5  m. 

Via  WATERBURY,  HARTFORD,  WILLIMANTIC,  and  WOONSOCKET. 

This  route,  though  little  used  today  as  a  direct  route  from 
New  York  to  Boston,  offers  a  pleasing  variation  and  many 
attractions  and  interests.  It  is  an  historic  route,  known  in 
Colonial  times  as  the  'Middle  Road,'  and  more  recently  as  the 
'Air  Line,'  because,  except  for  minor  variations,  it  follows  the 
straightest  route  between  the  two  terminal  cities.  It  follows 
State  Roads  throughout,  which  in  Connecticut  and  Massachu- 
setts are  marked  in  red  or  blue  (p  64). 


R.  3  §  1.     New  York  to  Hartford.  127.0  m. 

Via  WHITE  PLAINS,  DANBURY,  and  WATERBURY. 

In  New  York  State  the  route  runs  through  the  historic, 
region  about  White  Plains,  and  the  Kensico  district,  a  country 
of  gentlemen's  estates  now  being  transformed  by  gigantic 
reservoirs,  extending  into  Connecticut.  Thence  the  route 
passes  through  typical  Connecticut  industrial  towns  with  in- 
tervening stretches  of  inter- 
esting rocky  country. 

From  the  Connecticut  State 
line,  near  Mill  Plain,  Conn.,  to 
Newtown,  the  route  is  indi- 
cated with  red  markers  on  poles 
and  fences;  thence  by  blue  to 
Woodbury,  with  red  from  there 
to  Milldale,  with  blue  to  Plain- 
ville  and  Farmington,  and 
thence  red  to  Hartford;  or 

from  Plainville  with   red   via          THE  VAN  CORTLANDT  MANSION 
New  Britain  to  Hartford. 

From  the  Plaza  or  Columbus  Circle  the  route  runs  north- 
ward through  Central  Park  and  over  the  Grand  Boulevard  and 
Concourse.  Routes  i  and  5  turn  eastward,  to  the  right,  at  Pel- 
ham  Ave.  (9.5);  the  latter  route  is  alternative  from  this  point 
to  Hart's  Corners  (21.2).  To  the  left  is  Jerome  Reservoir  on 
the  site  of  the  famous  old  race  course.  At  the  end  of  the  Con- 
course (10.0)  the  route  jogs  left  and  right  into  Jerome  Ave. 
across  a  long  concrete  viaduct  over  Mosholu  Parkway  which 
leads  to  the  left  to  Van  Cortlandt  Park  (1132  acres).  Here 
is  the  old  Van  Cortlandt  mansion  (1748),  which  was  Washing- 
ton's headquarters  at  one  period  of  the  Revolution.  It  is  now 
a  Revolutionary  museum  in  charge  of  the  Colonial  Dames. 

Woodlawn  Cemetery  and  the  Empire  City  Race  Track  are 
(203) 


204  NEW   YORK— BEDFORD 

on  the  right  of  Central  Ave.,  on  which  the  route  leads 
northward  through  Hart's  Corners  (21.2).  Near  the  cross- 
roads occurred  one  of  the  encounters,  and  an  amusing  one, 
that  preceded  the  Battle  of  White  Plains.  General  Spencer, 
with  2000  troops,  had  gone  forth  to  check  the  enemy's  ad- 
vance, and  the  meeting  took  place  on  the  old  York  road. 
They  greeted  the  oncoming  Hessians  with  a  full  discharge  of 
musketry,  and  punished  them  severely;  but  were  so  overcome 
with  stage-fright  at  their  successful  attempt  that  they  fled  to 
the  hills  near  Chatterton's.  The  episode  was  dubbed  "the 
rout  of  the  bashful  New  Englanders." 

From  the  end  of  Central  Ave.  the  route  turns  right  on 
Central  Park  Ave.,  crossing  the  Bronx  River  Parkway  Reser- 
vation into  Main  St. 

23. 5  WHITE  PLAINS.  Alt  201  ft.  Pop  19,287  (1915).  County- 
seat  of  Westchester  Co.  Settled  1683.  Indian  name  Quar- 
ropas. 

White  Plains,  in  the  valley  of  the  Bronx,  is  a  beautiful  resi- 
dential suburb  of  New  York,  with  broad,  elm-shaded  streets 
and  well-kept  lawns.  In  the  village  are  the  Westchester 
County  buildings,  Muldoon's  Hygienic  Institute,  and  the 
Bloomingdale  Hospital  for  the  Insane  (1821).  Here  also  are 
the  Century  Country  Club,  the  Knollwood  Golf  and  Country 
Club,  and  the  Westchester  County  Fair  Association. 

Halfway  between  the  main  town  and  North  White  Plains 
stands  a  unique  monument, — the  actual  mortar  used  here  in 
the  battle,  mounted  upon  a  solid  base  bearing  this  inscription: 

"This  mortar  and  this  remnant  of  the  Revolutionary  entrenchments 
of  October,  1776,  mark  the  final  stand  by  General  Washington  at  the 
end  of  his  long  retreat;  the  abandonment  by  General  Howe  of  his 
purpose  to  capture  the  American  army,  and  the  revival  of  the  hopes 
for  national  independence." 

At  North  White  Plains  is  the  old  Miller  house,  occupied  by 
Washington  as  his  headquarters  before  the  Battle  of  White 
Plains  and  again  in  the  summer  of  1778.  Near  here  is  'Mt. 
Misery'  of  old  days,  identified  with  the  battle.  Just  to  the 
north  are  the  Kensico  Hills  and  the  great  Kensico  Reservoir. 
South  of  the  town  is  the  Gedney  Farm  Country  Club,  and 
nearby  the  Gedney  Farm  Hotel,  an  all-the-year-round  hostelry 
with  many  attractions.  The  country  is  attractive,  consisting 
of  rolling  wooded  hills  and  meadow  lands  in  the  valleys  of  the 
Bronx  and  the  Mamaroneck.  Near  the  village  are  Silver, 
Kensico,  and  Rye  lakes.  The  entire  section  along  the  Bronx 
river  is  being  developed  as  part  of  the  Bronx  River  Parkway. 

From  Main  St.  the  route  leads  north  on  Broadway,  past 
Battle  Hill  Park,  occupying  the  highest  section  of  White 
Plains,  overlooking  Bronx  Parkway.  This  was  formerly  known 


R.   3   §    I.     NEW   YORK   TO   HARTFORD  205 

as  Chatterton's  Hill,  and  was  the  scene  of  the  Revolutionary 
engagement. 

Just  beyond  White  Plains  is  the  'millionaire  district'  of 
Purchase,  where  many  beautiful  homes  are  found,  among  them 
Ophir  Farm  of  Hon.  Whitelaw  Reid,  and  the  home  of  W.  A. 
Read.  There  is  a  more  modest  but  charming  house  which 
belonged  to  the  late  Charles  Frohman,  and  has  opened  its 
hospitable  doors  to  many  a  struggling  actor.  A  garden  club 
promotes  the  raising  of  wonderful  flowers. 

Known  to  the  Indians  as  Quarropas  on  account  of  the  quantity  of 
corn  raised  about  here,  the  Dutch  traders  called  it  White  Plains  from 
the  thickets  of  white  balsam.  Connecticut  Puritans  coming  from  Rye 
were  the  first  settlers  in  1683.  The  town  was  the  scene  of  several  im- 
portant events  of  the  Revolution.  In  the  summer  of  1776  the  Third 
Provincial  Congress  convened  in  the  Court  House.  The  site  of  this 
building  on  South  Broadway  is  marked  by  a  tablet  in  front  of  the 
Armory.  In  October  of  the  same  year  Washington  concentrated  his 
army  near  White  Plains  after  Lord  Howe  had  landed  at  Throg's  Neck. 
Washington's  right  wing  was  lined  up  on  the  Bronx  river  and  he 
hastily  threw  up  earthworks  at  Chatterton's  Hill  on  the  west  bank. 
Howe  attacked  on  October  28  with  a  force  of  4000.  In  the  ensuing 
conflict  the  Americans  finally  withdrew  in  good  order,  and  the  severe 
losses  of  the  British  prevented  them  from  following.  Washington 
retired  to  North  Castle  and  fortified  himself  more  securely.  In  1779 
a  Continental  force  under  Aaron  Burr  was  encamped  here  for  a  time, 
and  in  1781  a  part  of  the  forces  of  Lauzun  and  Rochambeau  occupied 
the  region  during  some  months. 

The  route  bears  right,  passing  (27.0)  the  Kensico  Dam,  and 
follows  along  the  shore  of  the  reservoir,  crossing  a  long,  high 
concrete  bridge  with  a  fine  view  of  the  reservoir  and  dam. 
The  concrete  road  straight  ahead  (30.5)  leads  to  Mt.  Kisco. 
Bear  right  to 

31.5    ARMONK.     Alt  3fO  ft.     Pop  300.     Westchester  Co.     Indian 
name,  "fishing  place." 

This  is  a  quiet  residential  and  farming  region.  The  road 
bears  right,  then  left,  passing  Byram  Lake  on  the  left,  to 

39.5     BEDFORD.     Alt  280  ft.     Pop   (twp)   5629.     Westchester   Co. 

The  residential  colony  of  Bedford  Hills  lies  to  the  west. 
Bedford  is  a  part  of  the  Torquams  tract,  bought  from  the 
Indians  in  1640  by  Captain  Nathaniel  Turner. 

The  tract  extended  for  about  eight  miles  along  Long  Island  Sound, 
and  for  sixteen  miles  into  the  then  wilderness.  On  the  outskirts  of 
the  village,  in  February,  1644,  a  force  of  English  and  Dutch  troops 
commanded  by  Captain  John  Underbill,  the  redoubtable  Indian  fighter 
from  New  England,  fell  upon  an  Indian  encampment  and  slaughtered 
some  500  of  the  savages,  leaving  their  bodies  lying  in  the  snow.  This 
massacre  is  believed  to  have  occurred  at  the  base  of  what  is  still  called 
Indian  Hill,  about  a  half  mile  east  of  Bedford  Court  House.  As  late 
as  1765  mounds  at  the  base  of  this  hill  were  pointed  out  as  the  graves 
of  the  butchered  red  men.  The  first  settlement  here  was  established 


206  BEDFORD— DANBURY 

in  1680,  the  permission  being  granted  by  the  town  of  Stamford  (also 
within  the  Turner  tract)  to  twenty-two  men  who  bought  from  Katonah, 
Rockaway,  and  other  Indian  chiefs  for  £46  6d  a  tract  of  7673  acres, 
which  became  known  as  'Bedford  Three  Miles  Square.'  Nearly  all 
of  these  pioneers  were  sons  of  founders  of  the  Massachusetts  Bay 
Colony. 

The  route  circles  around  the  end  of  Cross  River  Reservoir 
into  the  village  of  Cross  River  (45.0). 

Note.  A  mile  and  a  half  beyond  the  village,  an  alternative 
route  to  Danbury  turns  to  the  right,  through  South  Salem, 
with  its  ancient  tavern,  and  Ridgefield  (R.  6).  A  hard, 
winding  road  leads  off  from  the  highway  to  the  left  through 
the  Titicus  Reservation  to  the  top  of  Titicus  Mountain  (969  ft) 
and  the  popular  motor  inn,  the  'Port  of  Missing  Men.'  It 
commands  a  beautiful  view  over  the  surrounding  country. 

Continue  straight  ahead  past  Waccabuc  Lake  on  the  right, 
through  the  Titicus  Hills,  a  region  of  charming  scenery,  where 
the  road  attains  a  maximum  of  620  feet.  At  Salem  Center 
(51.0)  is  North  Salem  Academy  (inc.  1790),  one  of  the  oldest 
schools  in  the  State.  A  half  mile  to  the  west  is  the  Titicus 
Reservoir,  three  miles  long,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  region. 
The  road  turns  sharp  right,  following  the  Titicus  valley  to 

52.5     NORTH  SALEM.     Alt  500  ft.    Pop  (twp)  1096  (1915).     West- 

chester  Co. 

The  route  turns  to  the  left,  passing  Peach  Lake  on  the  left, 
to  the  East  Branch  Reservoir,  where  the  route  turns  sharply  to 
the  right,  joining  the  route  from  Brewster  and  Beacon  along 
the  valley  of  Still  River,  and  crossing  the  Connecticut  boundary. 
From  this  point  the  route  follows  the  Connecticut  Trunk  Line 
State  Highway,  and  is  clearly  marked  by  red  bands  on  poles 
and  fences. 

60.0     MILL  PLAIN,  Conn.    Alt  464  ft.    Pop  (Danbury  twp)  23,502. 

f 'airfield  Co. 

The  route  continues  to  follow  the  valley  of  the  Still  river, 
entering  Lake  Ave.,  which  crosses  a  bridge  into  West  St.,  con- 
tinuing to  the  City  Hall,  corner  of  Main,  in 

64.0  DANBURY.  Alt  371  ft.  Pop  20,234;  about  one  fifth  foreign- 
born.  One  of  the  county-seats  of  Fairfield  Co.  Settled  1684. 
Mfg.  hats,  hat-making  machinery,  metal  novelties,  electric 
light  fixtures,  iron  making  tools,  ball  and  roller  bearings,  and 
laundry  machinery. 

Danbury  is  the  greatest  center  of  the  fur  felt  hat  industry  in 
the  United  States.  About  fifty  factories  are  engaged  in  this 
industry,  turning  out  a  product  valued  at  over  $6,000,000, 
which  is  about  17  per  cent  of  the  total  value  of  the  city's  manu- 
factures and  about  16  per  cent  of  the  total  value  of  all  hats 
produced  in  the  United  States.  The  materials — furs  for  the 


R.   3   §   I.     NEW   YORK    TO   HARTFORD  207 

felt — are  largely  imported,  but  fur  cutting  and  the  manufac- 
ture of  machinery  and  accessories  is  carried  on  here.  Metal 
novelties  and  lighting  fixtures,  manufactured  by  the  Rogers 
Silver  Plating  Company,  are  other  important  products. 

The  hat  industry  was  begun  here  in  1780,  and  during  the 
Revolution  Zadoc  Benedict,  one  of  the  pioneer  hatters,  turned 
out  as  many  as  three  hats  a  day.  From  1840  to  1850  silk  hats 
were  largely  made  here,  but  that  branch  has  now  been  given 
up  and  the  chief  product  is  soft  and  stiff  hats.  The  hat  plants 
of  the  Von  Gal  Company,  E.  A.  Mallory  and  Sons,  and  the  Lee 
Hat  Factory  are  among  the  largest  and  best  equipped.  The 
Loewe  firm  has  been  widely  advertised  because  of  the  celebrated 
Danbury  Hat  Case,  which  has  figured  in  the  public  prints  for 
the  past  thirteen  years.  The  industry  calls  for  skilled  labor, 
and  is  an  unhealthy  one  because  of  the  danger  of  mercurial 
poisoning  and  fetid  steam  atmosphere  in  which  the  employees 
work.  Of  recent  years  the  hat  manufacturers  of  Danbury 
have  led  in  remedying  these  conditions,  so  that  a  great  im- 
provement is  noted  in  conditions  affecting  the  health  of  em- 
ployees. It  is  one  of  the  most  completely  unionized  crafts. 
In  1902  the  Loewe  firm  declared  for  an  open  shop.  A  strike 
began,  was  followed  by  a  boycott,  the  firm  suffered,  and  in 
successive  courts  was  able  to  prove  damages  to  the  amount  of 
$80,000.  This  has  been  carried  from  court  to  court  until,  in 
1915,  it  was  finally  decided  by  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United 
States  and  a  judgment  of  $300,000  brought  against  the  186 
hatters  who  conspired,  as  a  result  of  which  their  houses  have 
been  sold  at  auction  to  meet  the  judgment.  Such  has  been  the 
fate  of  the  mad  hatters  of  Danbury. 

The  original  settlers  of  Danbury  came  from  Norwalk  in  1684,  and 
three  years  later  it  was  named  in  honor  of  a  town  in  Essex,  England. 
In  1766  a  large  amount  of  supplies  for  the  Continental  Army  were 
stored  here.  In  April,  1777,  Governor  William  Tryon  of  New  York 
raided  the  town  (p  81),  and  destroyed  the  supplies  and  much  prop- 
erty. During  his  retreat  he  was  attacked  and  defeated  at  Ridgefield 
by  General  David  Wooster,  who  was  killed  in  the  conflict  and  succeeded 
by  Benedict  Arnold.  A  monument  to  Wooster  was  erected  in  Dan- 
bury  in  1854.  Enoch  Crosby,  a  native  of  Danbury,  is  said  to  be  the 
original  of  Harvey  Birch,  the  hero  of  Cooper's  "Spy"  (p  70).  This 
was  also  the  home  of  James  Montgomery  Bailey  (1841-94),  the 
'Danbury  News  Man,'  whose  humorous  sketches  published  in  the 
"News"  made  both  him  and  his  town  justly  famous. 

Note.  A  Trunk  Line  State  Highway  (R.  6),  marked  by 
blue  bands,  runs  north  from  Norwalk  to  Litchfield  and  Tor- 
rington,  entering  Danbury  from  the  south  on  Park  Ave.,  and 
leaving  northward  on  Main  St. 

From  the  Danbury  City  Hall  and  Soldiers'  Monument, 
turning  left,  the  route  follows  Main  St.  past  the  Library  on  the 


208  DANBURY— WATERBURY 

left,  and  turns  sharply  to  the  right  on  White  St.,  passing  the 
State  Normal  School  on  the  left.  Bear  right  at  fork  of  road 
after  leaving  trolley.  The  route  as  far  as  Newtown  follows 
the  State  Road,  marked  by  red  bands  on  poles  and  posts. 

73.5  NEWTOWN.  Alt  396  ft.  Pop  434.  Fair  field  Co.  Inc.  1711. 
Mfg.  buttons,  lace,  and  fire  hose. 

At  the  Stone  Church  the  route  turns  left  under  the  R.R., 
downgrade  through  the  hamlets  of  Sandy  Hook  (75.0)  and 
Rocky  Glen,  crossing  the  Housatonic  river  (R.  9)  at  Bennetts 
Bridge,  where  an  island  divides  the  river.  The  Housatonic 
valley  is  here  a  narrow  gorge,  with  an  average  width  of  about 
a  mile,  which  has  been  worn  through  the  hard  resistant  rock 
to  a  depth  of  500  feet  below  the  surrounding  hilltops. 

From  Newtown  to  Woodbury  the  route  runs  northward 
from  Bridgeport  and  is  marked  by  blue  bands  on  poles  and 
posts.  The  road  leads  over  Georges  River  and  follows  the 
valley  of  the  Pomperaug,  parallel  with  the  New  England  R.R. 

81.S     SOUTHBURY.    Alt  200  ft.    Pop  (twp)  1233.    New  Haven  Co. 
Inc.  1787.    Mfg.  steel  traps,  organ  springs,  tacks,  and  paper. 
The  route   continues  to   follow  the  blue  markers  up  the 
valley  with  the  ridge  of  East  Hill  (580  ft)  to  the  west. 

855     WOODBURY.     Alt  300  ft.     Pop  (twp)   1860.     Litch field  Co. 

Named  1674.  Mfg.  pocket  knives,  and  shears. 
From  Woodbury  through  Waterbury  to  Milldale,  the  State 
Highway,  marked  by  red  bands  on  poles  and  posts,  is  a  portion 
of  the  east  and  the  west  Trunk  Line,  running  westward  from 
Middletown.  The  route  follows  the  old  Middlebury  Road, 
running  to  the  south  of  Quassapaug  Pond  to  Middlebury  (91.0), 
a  quiet  country  village.  Beyond  the  Green  on  the  right  is  the 
Westover  School,  a  fashionable  school  for  girls.  The  route 
now  turns  right,  to  the  east  again,  and  follows  the  State  Road, 
with  red  markers,  along  the  Middlebury  Road,  crossing  the 
Naugatuck  and  entering  Main  St.  and  crossing  Route  7. 

96.5  WATERBURY.  Alt  260  ft  (R.R.).  Pop  73,141;  one  fourth 
foreign-born,  mostly  Irish,  Italian,  French  Canadian,  Russian, 
and  French.  New  Haven  Co.  Settled  1677.  Indian  name 
Mattatuck.  Mfg.  brass,  copper,  german  silver,  wire,  pins, 
clocks,  and  watches.  Value  of  Product,  $50,350,000;  Pay- 
roll, $13,170,000. 

This  is  sometimes  known  as  'The  Brass  City,'  for  it  is  the 
center  of  the  brass  industries  of  Connecticut  and  perhaps  the 
largest  brass  producer  in  the  world.  According  to  its  aggres- 
sive and  enterprising  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Waterbury  has 
"Something  on  Everybody."  By  this  they  mean  that  on 


R.   3    §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   HARTFORD  209 

every  person  who  wears  clothing,  some  button,  hook,  eye, 
fastener,  or  other  attachment  is  to  be  found,  manufactured  in 
this  town.  Up  to  the  time  that  the  war  boom  deranged 
statistics  and  resulted  in  a  frantic  expansion  of  industrial 
towns,  Waterbury  was  the  fourth  city  in  population  in  the 
State,  and  the  third  in  the  value  of  its  manufactures. 

Waterbury  is  a  fine  old  city,  beautifully  situated  in  the  heart 
of  the  Naugatuck  valley,  where  it  is  joined  by  Mad  River. 
In  the  center  of  the  city  is  the  beautiful  Green,  facing  which  is 
the  Hotel  Elton,  whose  progressive  proprietor  originated  the 
"Ideal  Tour"  and  made  the  Naugatuck  valley  one  of  the 
gateways  of  New  England.  Opposite  is  the  Mattatuck  His- 
torical Building,  with  collections  illustrating  the  early  history 
of  Connecticut.  Waterbury  has  a  fine  new  City  Hall  of 
pleasing  Georgian  architecture  with  well-designed  fountains 
and  bas  reliefs.  Its  railway  station  is  marked  by  a  tower  re- 
producing the  Torre  del  Mangia  of  Siena.  Opposite  the 
station  is  Library  Park,  iconoclastically  created  on  the  site  of 
an  old  burying  ground.  Facing  upon  it  is  the  Silas  Bronson 
Library,  munificently  endowed  by  the  New  York  business 
man  of  Waterbury  origin  whose  name  it  bears.  Here  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce  displays  to  passing  travelers,  in  electric 
lights  of  red,  white,  and  blue,  its  aggressive  but  justifiable  slogan. 

A  tract  of  land  ten  by  eighteen  miles  was  purchased  from  the  Indi- 
ans for  the  sum  of  nine  pounds  by  a  group  of  men  from  Farmington. 
In  1708  the  colony  voted  fifteen  pounds  to  build  two  forts  here  and  the 
town  arranged  for  the  expense  of  the  construction  of  a  third.  Rocham- 
beau  and  his  French  forces  remained  in  encampment  here  through  a 
winter  during  the  Revolution.  The  site  of  this  encampment  is  now 
marked  by  a  monument. 

The  waterpowers  of  the  Naugatuck  and  Mad  rivers  were  early  put 
to  use.  In  1680  Stephen  Hopkins  built  a  grist  mill,  which  was  oper- 
ated for  1 60  years  on  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  Scoville  Mfg. 
Co.  The  most  important  early  industry  here  was  button  making, 
established  in  1850  by  Joseph  Hopkins.  This  led  in  1802  to  the 
making  of  brass  buttons  and  the  introduction  of  the  brass  industry. 
The  town  presented  Lafayette  on  his  visit  here  in  1824  with  a  set  of 
gold  buttons.  During  the  Civil  War  most  of  the  brass  buttons  used 
on  Federal  uniforms  were  here  made. 

The  variety  of  brass  articles  produced  in  the  factories  of 
Waterbury  is  almost  endless.  The  cheap  watch  made  Water- 
bury  famous,  and  the  New  England  Watch  Company  still 
turns  out  600,000  watches  yearly.  The  Ingersoll  Watch 
Company,  whose  factories  are  also  here,  turns  out  an  enormous 
number  of  watches.  Copper  coins  for  South  American  coun- 
tries and  the  blanks  for  United  States  nickels  are  here  made. 
Waterbury  can  deal  in  many  superlatives.  It  produces  more 
brazed  and  seamless  tubing  than  any  other  city,  has  the  largest 
button  industry  and  the  largest  clock  factory  'in  the  world.' 
Both  German  silver  and  silver  ware  are  manufactured  here. 


2  io  WATERBURY— FARMINGTON 

The  International  Silver  Company  is  a  successor  of  the  original 
Rogers  Bros. 

From  the  Green  the  route  follows  East  Main  St.  south,  and 
at  Hamilton  Park  turns  square  left  on  the  Meriden  road. 
The  route  is  clearly  marked  by  red  bands  on  poles  and  posts. 
Skirting  the  Waterbury  Reservoir,  which  lies  to  the  north,  the 
road  descends  the  long  slopes  of  Southington  Mountain,  from 
the  700  to  the  200  foot  level,  through  the  villages  of  Marion 
(103.5)  and  Milldale  (104.5). 

Here  the  State  Road  straight  ahead,  with  red  bands,  leads 
to  Middletown.  The  Hartford  route  turns  square  left,  follow- 
ing blue  bands  on  poles  and  posts  to  Plantsville  (102.4)  ar>d 

108.5  SOUTHINGTON.  Alt  149  ft.  Pop  3714.  Hartford  Co. 
Settled  1697.  Mfg.  hardware,  pocket  cutlery,  tinners' 
tools,  wood  screws,  carriage  hardware,  rolled  iron,  wire, 
and  paper  bags. 

This  typical  industrial  town  on  the  Quinnipiac  river,  which 
supplies  some  of  the  waterpower,  manufactures  the  greatest 
variety  of  hardware.  The  name  is  a  contraction  of  South 
Farmington,  of  which  it  was  originally  a  part.  In  1724  it  be- 
came an  independent  parish  under  the  name  of  Panthorn. 

113.5  PLAINVILLE.  Alt  191  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2882.  Hartford  Co. 
Settled  1640.  Mfg.  knit  underwear,  saddlers'  hardware, 
homes,  watchmakers'  tools,  spun  and  cast  brass  goods. 

This  is  an  outlying  industrial  village  on  the  borders  of 
Forestville  and  Bristol,  to  the  west,  between  the  Quinnipiac 
and  the  Pequabuck  rivers. 

Note.  At  Plainville,  the  east  and  west  State  Highway, 
marked  by  red  bands  from  Thomaston,  runs  east  via  New 
Britain  to  Hartford.  From  Plainville,  this  road  ascends,  pass- 
ing through  a  gap  in  the  north  and  south  trap  ridge.  To  the 
north  is  Rattlesnake  Mountain. 

4.5    NEW  BRITAIN.     Alt    200  ft,  R.R.     Pop    (twp)    43,916;   one 
third  foreign-born,  Irish  and  Swedish.    Hartford  Co.    Settled 
1687.     Mfg.  hardware  specialties,  locks,  cutlery,  iron  beds, 
metal  furniture,  cotton  and  woolen  underwear,  and  hosiery. 
New  Britain  is  the  center  of  the  hardware  manufacturing 
of  New  England,  and  is  sometimes  called  the  'Hardware  City.' 
It  has  had  a  rapid  growth  in  the  last  two  decades,  due  to  the 
prosperity  of  its  industries.     It  was  one  of  the  first  cities  in  the 
country  to  build  a  municipal  subway  for  electric  light,  tele- 
phone, and  telegraph  wires.     A  State  Normal  School  was  early 
established,  largely  through  the  efforts  of  Henry  Barnard. 

New  Britain  is  the  home  of  the  Corbin  Locks;  the  plant 
employs  6000  hands.  Landers,  Frary  &  Clark  have  manu- 
factured cutlery  here  for  half  a  century. 


R.   3   §    I.     NEW   YORK   TO   HARTFORD 


Though  early  settled,  this  territory,  originally  a  part  of  Farmington, 
was  made  part  of  Berlin,  and  not  incorporated  as  a  separate  town  until 
1850.  There  are  a  few  old  houses  antedating  the  Revolution,  notably 
the  Hart  house  on  Kensington  St.  and  the  Nathan  Booth  house  on 
Arch  St. 

The  pioneer  of  New  Britain's  industry  was  James  North,  who  made 
brass  buckles,  andirons,  etc.  His  five  sons  each  entered  into  different 
trades.  One  made  bells  and  clocks,  peddling  his  products  from  his 
saddle  bags.  Elihu  Burritt,  'the  learned  blacksmith,'  is  perhaps  the 
most  distinguished  product  of  New  Britain.  Born  herein  1811,  at  the 
age  of  sixteen  he  was  apprenticed  to  a  blacksmith,  and  while  practicing 
his  trade  mastered  Greek  and  Hebrew  by  evening  studies,  and  at  the 
age  of  thirty  he  could  read  nearly  fifty  languages.  In  1837  he  removed 
to  Worcester,  took  to  lecturing,  became  an  ardent  advocate  of  universal 
peace,  and  traveled  extensively  in  America  and  Europe.  He  died  at 
New  Britain  in  1879. 

From  New  Britain  the  route  continues  to  follow  the  State 
Highway,  marked  by  red  bands,  entering  Hartford  (15.0)  by 
New  Britain  Ave.  and  Washington  St. 

From  Plainville  the  main  route  continues  to  follow  the  blue 
banded  posts  and  poles  along  the  valley  of  the  Pequabuck 
river,  skirting  Rattlesnake  Mountain  (700  ft),  on  the  right. 

118.0  FARMINGTON.  Alt  245  ft.  Pop  897,  (twp)  3748  Hartford 
Co.  Settled  1640.  Mfg.  cutlery,  rules,  levels,  and  paper. 

Farmington  is  a  beautiful  old  town  with  wide  elm-lined 
streets  and  some  fine  old  houses  which  give  evidence  of  the 
former  importance  and  wealth  of  the  place.  The  Thomas 
Cowles  house  was  designed  by  a  young  officer  of  Burgoyne's 
army  while  he  was  held  a  prisoner  here.  On  top  of  the  hill  is 
the  munificent  estate  of  the  late  A.  A.  Pope,  the  house  being 
the  best  and  purest  evolution  of  the  Mt.  Vernon  type,  with  an 
extensive  formal  garden.  At  the  entrance  is  an  "Odds  and 
Ends  Shop,"  established  by  Miss  Theodate  Pope  for  charity. 
At  the  south  end  of  Main  St.  is  the  Lodge,  owned  by  the  pupils, 
past  and  present,  of  Miss  Porter's  School,  and  maintained  for 
the  benefit  of  working  girls  who  come  here  throughout  the 
year,  although  chiefly  for  the  summer  months. 

Farmington  was  on  one  of  the  chief  Colonial  highways  between  New 
York  and  Boston.  The  inhabitants  were  prosperous,  for  in  addition 
to  agricultural  pursuits  they  owned  vessels  engaged  in  East  Indian 
trade.  The  first  settlers  named  the  village  from  the  English  town. 
They  were  attracted  here  by  the  fertility  of  the  meadows,  although  it 
was  already  inhabited  by  the  Tunxis  Indians,  who  had  given  their 
name  to  the  river,  Tunxis,  meaning  "crane."  The  settlers  got  on 
fairly  peaceably  with  the  Indians.  In  1657,  however,  John  Hartford 
and  all  his  family  were  burnt  to  death  in  his  house,  which  had  been 
fired  by  the  Indians.  As  a  penalty  for  this  the  Indians  were  required 
to  pay  eighty  fathoms  of  wampum  a  year  for  seven  years. 

Farmington  was  the  home  of  Governor  John  Treadwell,  who  was 
prominent  in  public  life  during  the  Revolutionary  period  and  in  the 
administrative  affairs  of  Yale  during  that  time.  It  was  the  home, 


FA RMINGTON— MANCHESTER  CENTER 


too,  of  the  Porters.  Noah  Porter,  President  of  Yale,  and  Samuel 
Porter,  who  spent  much  time  and  thought  on  the  earlier  editions  of 
Webster's  Unabridged  Dictionary,  were  brothers  of  Miss  Sarah  Porter, 
whose  school  has  made  Farmington  famous.  Miss  Porter  opened  her 
school  for  girls  in  1844,  and  "in  its  long  history  it  has  probably  exerted 
a  greater  influence  on  American  womanhood  than  any  other  educa- 
tional institution  except  perhaps  Mt.  Holyoke  under  Miss  Lyon." 

Farmington  overlooks  the  broad  and  fertile  valley  of  Farmington 
River,  which  is  here  joined  by  the  Pequabuck.  The  rich  alluvial  soils 
of  this  valley  a  little  further  on  are  largely  given  over  to  the  production 
of  wrapper  tobacco. 

From  Farmington  the  route  turns  right,  following  the  red 
markers  on  Farmington  Ave.,  which  ascends  the  hills  to  West 
Hartford  (123.0). 

This  community  is  chiefly  occupied  in  tobacco  farming, 
market  gardening,  and  the  growing  of  flowers  under  glass. 
Brick  and  bent  pipe  are  also  manufactured  here,  and  a  large 
quantity  of  ice  is  annually  stored  for  the  outside  market. 

Noah  Webster  was  born  here  in  1758.  His  fame  largely  rests  on 
his  Dictionary,  but  he  was  a  potent  force  in  the  life  of  the  young  repub- 
lic during  its  formative  years.  He  left  Yale  in  his  Junior  year  to  join 
the  Revolutionary  army.  Later  he  studied  the  law,  but  elected  to 
teach  school,  and  devised  his  famous  spelling  book  and  grammar, 
published  at  Hartford,  which  marked  a  great  advance  in  school  text- 
books. In  that  bitter  campaign,  waged  so  fiercely  against  the 
second  election  of  Washington,  he  espoused  his  cause,  and  the_  result 
was  in  no  small  measure  due  to  the  speeches  he  made  in  stumping  the 
country.  A  pamphlet  he  wrote  in  1784  was  the  first  definite  proposal 
for  a  constitution  to  take  the  place  of  the  "Articles  of  Confederation." 
The  following  year  he  made  the  first  advocacy  for  copyright  laws. 
His  love  of  precision  in  the  use  of  words  was  well  displayed  when  his 
wife,  to  her  horror,  discovered  him  kissing  a  pretty  kitchen  maid;  to 
his  wife's  cry  of  "Noah,  I  am  surprised!"  the  lexicographer  immedi- 
ately corrected,  "No,  my  dear,  you  are  astonished;  I  am  surprised." 

The   route  continues  on  Farmington  Ave.   into   Hartford, 
passing  on  the  right  the  State  Capitol  and  then  along  Asylum 
St.  to  the  City  Hall.     Route  8  enters  from  the  left. 
127.0    HARTFORD  (R.  1,  p  111). 


R.  3  §  2.     Hartford  to  Boston.  125.5  m. 

Via  WILLIMANTIC,  PUTNAM,  WOONSOCKET,  and  FRAMINGHAM 

or  DOVER.     STATE  ROAD  throughout. 

This  route,  the  Middle  Road  of  Colonial  times,  traverses  the 
eastern  Connecticut  highland  through  the  industrial  districts 
of  Manchester,  the  home  of  Cheney  Silks,  and  Willimantic,  the 
thread  city.  Thence  it  passes  through  the  northwestern  part 
of  Connecticut,  hilly  land  sparsely  settled.  From  the  north- 
western portion  of  Rhode  Island  with  its  mill  centers  we  may 
turn  east  to  Providence  (85.0),  or  continue  over  an  interest- 
ing route  through  southern  Massachusetts  direct  to  Boston. 


R.   3   §   2.     HARTFORD    TO    BOSTON  213 

The  route  leaves  Hartford  (R.  i)  by  the  magnificent  new 
stone  bridge  over  the  Connecticut  and  passes  through  East 
Hartford.  From  East  Hartford  turn  right  from  the  route 
to  Springfield  with  branch  trolley,  following  the  Connecticut 
Trunk  Line  State  Road,  marked  with  red  bands  on  poles 
and  posts,  eastward  along  Burnside  Ave.  through  Burnside 
(4.0).  This  little  manufacturing  hamlet  lies  just  to  the 
south  of  the  State  Road  on  the  Hockanum  river,  which  fur- 
nishes waterpower  for  the  paper  industry  that  has  here  flour- 
ished since  Revolutionary  times. 

Note.  The  State  Road  branching  off  to  the  left  (6.5)  leads 
north  through  Tolland  and  Stafford  Springs  (R.  1 1)  to  Worcester. 

Halfway  between  Hartford  and  Manchester  we  pass  Laurel 
Park,  the  prettiest  spot  in  the  Hockanum  valley.  This  is  a 
region  of  natural  picturesqueness,  with  ravines  and  cliffs. 

In  this  region,  near  Manchester,  was  found  in  1884  a  considerable 
part  of  the  skeleton  of  a  dinosaur,  and  a  few  years  later,  in  the  same 
locality,  a  complete  skeleton  of  another  species,  so  perfect  as  to  afford 
the  Yale  paleontologist,  Professor  Marsh,  satisfactory  data  for  a  com- 
plete restoration  of  the  animal.  The  remains  of  still  a  third  species  of 
dinosaur  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity. 

8.8  MANCHESTER  CENTER.  Alt  170  ft.  Pop  (twp)  13,641. 
Hartford  Co.  Settled  1672.  Mfg.  silk,  woolens,  paper,  soap, 
and  needles. 

A  mile  to  the  north  is  the  village  of  Manchester.  The 
township  has  four  centers  of  population,  the  largest  community 
in  the  State  operating  under  a  town  government,  but  its  charter 
gives  it  most  of  the  powers  exercised  by  cities. 

SOUTH  MANCHESTER  lies  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  south 
of  Manchester  Center  and  the  State  Road.  Here  are  located 
the  great  silk  mills  of  the  firm  of  Cheney  Brothers,  which 
employ  4500  people. 

The  first  settlement  was  made  in  1672  near  Hop  Brook,  as  a  part  of 
Hartford.  The  settlement  at  the  Green  was  first  called  Five  Miles, 
and  later,  Orford  Parish.  The  exclusive  privilege  of  making  glass  in 
the  Connecticut  colony  was  granted  to  the  Pitkins  here.  The  pic- 
turesque ruins  of  their  glassworks  may  still  be  seen. 

Timothy  Cheney,  one  of  the  first  of  the  family,  was  a  maker  of 
wooden  clocks,  to  whom  John  Fitch  (p  119)  was  apprenticed  to  learn 
the  clock-making  trade.  Though  Cheney  made  reliable  clocks  Fitch 
thought  he  treated  him  unfairly. 

Mulberry  trees  were  first  planted  and  silkworm  culture  instituted 
in  Connecticut  in  1732,  both  at  Mansfield  and  at  Cheshire.  President 
Stiles  of  Yale  was  much  interested  in  silk  culture,  and  his  Commence- 
ment gown  in  1789  was  Connecticut  grown  and  manufactured.  The 
Legislature  encouraged  silk  production  by  offering  a  bounty  on  the 
raising  of  mulberry  trees  and  raw  silk.  Half  an  ounce  of  mulberry 
seed  was  distributed  to  each  parish.  In  1785  the  Connecticut  Silk 
Society  was  incorporated  in  New  Haven  to  encourage  silk  culture 
and  manufacture.  Mansfield,  to  the  north  of  Willimantic,  became 


214  MANCHESTER  CENTER— POMFRET 

the  center  of  the  industry,  and  in  1793  her  inhabitants  received  a 
bounty  on  265  pounds  of  raw  silk.  In  1829  a  silk  company  built  a 
factory  at  Mansfield  to  produce  sewing  silk.  In  1836  Frank  and 
Ralph  Cheney,  descendants  of  Timothy  Cheney,  laid  the  foundation 
of  the  largest  silk  industry  in  the  State  at  South  Manchester,  beginning 
to  manufacture  silk  thread  from  imported  raw  material.  There  are 
forty-seven  silk  manufactories  in  the  State,  with  a  total  production  of 
$21,000,000  in  1909. 

The  Bon  Ami  Company,  manufacturers  of  the  soap  which,  like  a 
newly  hatched  chick,  "hasn't  scratched  yet,"  have  their  factory  here. 
There  are  also  paper  mills,  woolen  mills,  a  needle  factory,  and  a  knitting 
factory.  The  Alcott  grass  garden,  in  which  individual  grasses  from  all 
parts  of  the  world  are  grown,  was  the  property  of  Frederick  W. 
Taylor,  of  scientific  management  fame. 

The  State  Road  continues  straight  through  Manchester 
Green  (10.0).  Highland  Park,  two  miles  east  of  Manchester, 
is  a  beautiful  bit  of  country.  The  Bolton  Hills  (590  ft)  about 
here  make  this  one  of  the  most  charming  regions  of  New 
England. 

Note.  The  left  fork,  with  red  markers,  is  an  alternate  route 
via  Coventry  to  Willimantic;  it  is  of  about  equal  length  but 
less  attractive. 

The  main  route  forks  right,  and  is  marked  with  red  bands, 
through  the  romantic  Bolton  Notch  (13.0),  descending  a  steep 
grade.  The  town  of  Bolton  lies  a  mile  or  so  south. 

18.5     ANDOVER.     Alt  320  ft.     Pop  (twp)  371  (1910).     Tolland  Co. 

Inc.  1848. 

The  Town  Hall  is  on  the  right.  The  fine  new  State  High- 
way of  macadam  pavement  continues  through  a  sparsely 
settled  region  eastward  to 

29.0  WILLIMANTIC.  Alt  247  ft.  Pop  12,206  (1910);  one  fourth 
foreign-born.  Windham  Co.  Settled  1822.  Indian  name, 
"good  lookout,"  or  "good  cedar  swamp."  Mfg.  spool  cotton, 
silk  twist,  silk  and  cotton  fabrics,  velvet,  and  silk  machinery. 

Willimantic  is  a  thriving  manufacturing  town  at  the  head- 
waters of  the  Shetucket  river,  formed  here  by  the  joining  of  the 
Willimantic  and  the  Natchaug.  It  is  one  of  the  chief  thread- 
making  centers  of  the  country.  Willimantic  is  the  geographic 
center  of  eastern  Connecticut  and  the  distributing  center  for 
the  farming  region  which  surrounds  it.  Manufacturing  is  car- 
ried on  in  the  outlying  villages,  South  Coventry,  Chaffee- 
ville,  North  Windham,  etc.  The  annual  factory  product  is 
valued  at  over  $5,000,000.  There  are  extensive  granite  quar- 
ries in  the  vicinity,  and  most  of  the  large  mills  are  built  of  this 
local  material. 

The  Willimantic  river  falls  a  hundred  feet  in  a  mile,  forming 
one  of  the  most  valuable  waterpowers  in  eastern  Connecticut. 


R.  3    §   2.     HARTFORD   TO   BOSTON  215 

Here  is  the  principal  plant  of  the  American  Thread  Company, 
which  employs  2500  persons.  Here  also  are  the  large  plants 
of  the  Quidnick-Windham  Manufacturing  Company,  makers 
of  prints  and  twills.  The  silk  industry  is  important,  including 
the  Holland  Mills  (silk  thread),  the  Windham  Silk  Company 
(dress  goods),  the  Chaffee  Company,  and  the  A.  G.  Turner 
Silk-Throwing  Mill.  The  Vanderman  Foundries  and  the  Willi- 
mantic  Machine  Company  build  silk  machinery. 

Windham  Center,  three  miles  east,  was  an  important  and 
prosperous  town  during  the  Colonial  period  and  still  has  some 
fine  old  houses.  The  legend  of  the  Frogs  of  Windham  has 
been  related  by  a  local  poet  in  a  batrachian  epic  of  thirty 
stanzas,  telling  of  a  battle  between  hordes  of  migrating  frogs. 

The  hill  country  of  northeastern  Connecticut  and  adjacent 
Rhode  Island  presents  points  of  sociological  interest.  A 
prosperous  region  in  Colonial  days,  it  has  gone  backward  and 
the  inhabitants  have  retrograded  rather  than  advanced.  This 
has  remained  a  sort  of  'backwater'  of  New  England  civiliza- 
tion, where  the  standards  of  living  have  been  very  low.  It  is 
averred  that  in  some  neighborhoods  food  for  the  entire  week  is 
cooked  at  one  time  and  eaten  thereafter  as  appetite  inclines. 
Recent  improvements  in  education,  agriculture,  better  roads, 
etc.,  have  done  much  to  change  these  conditions. 

Route  n,  from  Norwich  to  Stafford  Springs  and  Worcester, 
crosses  the  route  here. 

Leaving  Willimantic  we  cross  the  Natchaug  river  by  an  iron 
bridge.  The  State  Highway  traverses  a  sparsely  inhabited 
region  to  North  Windham  (34.0),  a  mere  hamlet,  and  follows 
the  valley  of  the  Natchaug,  crossing  the  river  before  entering 
the  village  of  Chaplin  (37.0).  The  route  continues  to  Phcenix- 
ville  (43.0),  where  it  leaves  the  Natchaug  valley  and  turns  east 
through  Abington  (48.0)  to 

51.0    POMFRET.     Alt  389  ft.     Pop   (twp)  1857  (1910).     Windham 

Co.    Settled  1687. 

Pomfret  is  a  pleasant  old  country  town  with  fine  old  houses 
and  churches  surrounded  by  rolling  hills,  famous  for  its  mem- 
ories of  Israel  Putnam.  The  Ben  Grosvenor  Inn  (1765)  faces 
the  Green.  Opposite  is  the  Pomfret  School,  for  boys,  founded 
in  1894.  Pomfret  has  become  increasingly  popular  as  a  sum- 
mer resort  on  account  of  its  fine  situation.  There  are  some 
attractive  country  places  in  the  vicinity.  Rathlin,  the  exten- 
sive estate  of  George  Lothrop  Bradley  of  Washington,  D.C., 
overlooks  the  Brooklyn  and  Abington  valleys.  Courtlands, 
the  home  of  Mrs.  Courtland  Hoppin,  and  Elsinore,  that  of  Mrs. 
Randolph  M.  Clark,  can  be  seen  across  the  picturesque  Para- 
dise valley;  while  Marcus  M.  Kimball  of  Boston  and  the 


216  POMFRET— WOONSOCKET 


Perkins  brothers  of  New  York  have  attractive  places  further 
to  the  east.  The  Thomas  S.  Harrison  place  on  the  main 
street  is  one  of  the  original  homesteads  modernized. 

The  early  settlers  came  from  Roxbury,  and  the  place  attained  con- 
siderable importance  in  Colonial  times.  It  was  an  important  stopping 
place  on  the  Middle  Road.  One  of  the  old  inns  is  still  standing  with 
very  little  change,  and  is  now  the  home  of  Dr.  S.  B.  Overlock,  at  the 
four  corners.  After  the  Revolution  the  town  sank  into  quiet  and  par- 
tial obscurity.  About  1875  the  sleepy  little  village  was  brought  into 
notice  by  some  Providence  people,  and  through  the  efforts  of  Dr. 
Alexander  H.  Vinton  and  the  Hoppin  family  it  has  been  transformed 
into  a  wide-awake  residential  resort.  The  countless  ridges  and  hills 
overlooking  the  pleasant  valley  of  the  winding  Quinebaug  afford  ideal 
sites  for  estates. 

General  Israel  Putnam  lived  and  was  buried  at  Brooklyn,  some  miles 
to  the  south.  On  the  failing  of  his  finances,  his  former  residence  was 
turned  into  an  inn  in  1767.  At  the  side  of  the  house  today  is  a  great 
bronze  equestrian  statue  of  the  General. 

On  the  road  between  Brooklyn  and  Pomfret,  on  a  craggy,  precipi- 
tous hill  with  a  tangled  forest,  is  the  historic  Wolf's  Den. 

One  morning  seventy  sheep  and  goats  were  reported  killed.  Putnam 
had  a  bloodhound  of  great  strength,  and  with  five  neighbors  he  agreed 
to  watch  until  the  wolf  was  killed.  It  was  in  the  winter  of  1742-43, 
when  a  light  snowfall  enabled  them  to  track  the  wolf  to  his  den,  that 
his  famous  exploit  occurred.  A  day  was  spent  in  fruitless  endeavor 
to  persuade  the  beast  to  come  out,  but  finally  Putnam  threw  off  his 
coat  and  waistcoat,  and  with  a  rope  around  his  body  and  a  gun  in  his 
hand  he  was  lowered  into  the  cave  until  he  saw  the  glaring  eyeballs. 
He  shot  the  wolf  and  was  pulled  out  with  it. 

The  road  from  Pomfret  north  to  Woodstock,  a  beautifully 
situated  village  in  a  mountainous  country,  is  a  fine  New 
England  elm-shaded  street  preserving  the  Colonial  flavor. 

56.5  PUTNAM.  Pop  6637  (1910);  one  third  foreign-born.  Wind- 
ham  Co.  Inc.  1855.  Mfg.  cotton  and  woolen  goods,  steam 
heaters,  and  castings. 

This  is  a  manufacturing  village,  utilizing  the  fine  water- 
power  of  the  Quinebaug  and  Mill  rivers,  and  named  for  General 
Putnam.  Route  12,  from  New  London  to  Worcester,  passes 
through  the  city. 

From  Putnam  the  route  follows  gravel  and  macadam  roads, 
with  red  markers,  through  a  sparsely  inhabited  country.  About 
three  miles  from  Putnam  we  cross  the  State  line  into  Rhode 
Island,  where  the  color  markers  cease,  and  pass  through  the 
hamlet  of  West  Gloucester,  skirting  Bowdish  Reservoir,  to 

70.0  CHEPACHET.  Alt  395ft.  Pop  (Gloucester  twp)  1491  (1915). 
Providence  Co.  Inc.  1731 

From  here  the  straight  road  continues  to  Providence  (85.0). 

The  road  to  Woonsocket  turns  to  the  left,  following  a  good 
State  Road.  At  Mapleville  (71.5),  bear  left,  and  at  fork,  right, 
crossing  R.R.,  through  the  hamlet  of  Oakland.  South  of  the 
village  of  Glendale,  which  we  avoid,  we  cross  a  wood  bridge 


R.   3    §   2.     HARTFORD   TO    BOSTON 


to  Nasonville  (74.5).  The  route  now  follows  the  trolley, 
skirting  a  series  of  lakes  through  Slatersville  (76.8),  entering, 
via  Main  St.,  the  city  of 

81. S  WOONSOCKET.  Alt  162  ft.  Pop  38,350  (1910),  40,075  (1915); 
three  fifths  foreign  extraction.  Providence  Co.  Settled 
1666.  Mfg.  cotton,  woolens,  yarn,  rubber  shoes,  and  ma- 
chinery. Value  of  Product,  $28,218,000;  Payroll,  $5,675,000. 

Woonsocket,  situated  at  the  most  valuable  waterpower  on 
the  Blackstone  river,  is  a  thriving  industrial  center  which  has 
long  been  famed  for  the  manufacture  of  worsteds,  rubber 
goods,  etc.  The  Woonsocket  of  the  present  day  is,  however,  a 
French  city.  Over  60  p?r  cent  of  the  population  is  French 
Canadian,  employed  in  the  numerous  mills.  They  almost 
control  the  politics,  and  one  of  Woonsocket's  French  citizens 
has  been  Governor  of  the  State. 

The  industrial  development  has  been  largely  modern,  al- 
though jnills  existed  from  early  times  at  the  falls  of  the  Black- 
stone.  There  are  over  thirty-five  large  manufacturing  plants 
here  besides  many  smaller  concerns.  The  cotton  and  woolen 
mills  have  a  wide  reputation,  and  it  is  one  of  the  largest  centers 
for  the  manufacture  of  woolen  and  worsted  yarns  by  the 
French,  Belgian,  and  Bradford  processes.  It  is  the  home  of 
American  Harris  tweeds.  The  rubber  mills  and  wringer 
works  are  among  the  largest  in  the  country.  Additional  water- 
power  is  obtained  from  the  tributaries  of  the  Blackstone,  the 
Mill  and  Peters  rivers. 

Probably  the  most  striking  buildings  of  Woonsocket  are  the 
Catholic  Churches.  The  Harris  Institute  was  given  to  the  city 
by  the  wellknown  manufacturer  of  the  worsteds  which  bear 
his  name.  It  contains  a  large  hall  and  a  library.  Woonsocket 
Hill  (588  ft)  is  one  of  the  highest  in  the  State  and  commands 
a  fine  view  of  the  busy  valley. 

The  Blackstone  river  is  the  best  developed  waterpower  in  the 
country  (see  R.  19,  Intro.).  It  is  named  for  William  Blackstone, 
the  first  settler  on  the  site  of  Boston,  who  retired  to  this  part 
of  Rhode  Island  in  1634  (see  Lonsdale,  R.  19). 

Two  miles  northwest  of  Woonsocket  is  the  busy  little  town 
of  Blackstone  (settled  1700)  with  important  cotton,  woolen, 
and  rubber  mills.  Further  up  the  river  are  Millville,  part  of 
the  town  of  Blackstone,  with  its  rubber  boot  plant;  the  textile 
village  of  Uxbridge;  Whitinsville  with  its  famous  cotton  ma- 
chinery plant  established  by  the  Whitin  family;  Northbridge, 
Millbury,  and  other  manufacturing  centers.  In  the  days  be- 
fore the  railroads  the  Blackstone  Canal  furnished  transporta- 
tion through  this  valley,  connecting  \Vorcester  and  Providence. 

The  Indians  applied  the  name  'Woonsocket'  to  the  hill  and  the  falls 
here.  The  first  white  settler  was  Richard  Arnold  of  Providence,  who 


218  WOONSOCKET— MILFORD 


arrived  in  1666  and  built  a  saw  mill  on  the  bank  of  the  Blackstone. 
It  became  largely  a  settlement  of  Quakers,  who  dwelt  to  the  south  and 
west  of  the  present  city,  and  some  of  the  old  meeting  houses  remain  to- 
day. South  of  the  city  is  a  large  quartz  hill  which  contains  iron  of 
the  purest  type,  but  the  extreme  hardness  of  the  deposit  has  prevented 
its  usefulness  on  account  of  the  absence  of  a  satisfactory  flux  in  this 
part  of  the  world. 

From  Monument  Square,  Route  19  leads  to  Worcester  via 
Blackstone  St.,  to  the  left. 

The  Boston  route  follows  Social  St.,  in  two  miles  crossing  the 
State  Line  into  Massachusetts,  leading  by  a  recently  con- 
structed State  Highway  to 

88.0    BELLINGHAM.     Alt  240  ft.     Pop    (twp)   1696    (1910),  1953 

(1915).  Norfolk  Co.  Inc.  1719.  Mfg.  woolens. 
Bellingham  lies  on  the  height  of  land  from  which  the  waters 
turn  northward  into  the  Charles  river  and  southward  into  the 
Blackstone.  The  town  derives  its  name  from  the  Earl  of 
Bellingham,  to  whom  the  land  was  granted  when  governor  of 
the  colony  by  Charles  II.  He  gave  his  own  name  to  the  town, 
and  that  of  his  benefactor  to  the  river  flowing  northward. 

Note.  From  the  Bellingham  Town  Hall  a  State  Road  leads 
to  the  right  through  Franklin  to  Wrentham  (9.0),  where  it 
joins  Route  2,  from  Providence  to  Boston.  The  distance  to 
Boston  by  this  route  is  35.0  m.  from  Bellingham. 

4.8  FRANKLIN.  Alt  301  ft.  Pop  (twp)  5641  (1910),  6440  (1915). 
Norfolk  Co.  Inc.  1778.  Mfg.  shoddy,  woolens,  felt,  pianos, 
and  straw  hats. 

Franklin  is  a  busy  town  of  diversified  manufactures  in  the 
midst  of  a  farming  country.  The  manufacture  of  straw  hats 
was  long  the  most  characteristic  industry  of  the  place,  as  both 
Franklin  and  Wrentham  were  early  centers  in  this  line. 

On  the  left  toward  the  Common  is  the  Ray  Memorial 
Library,  given  to  the  town  by  the  daughters  of  Joseph  Gordon 
Ray  as  a  memorial  to  their  father.  Architecturally  this  is  one 
of  the  most  significant  library  buildings  in  New  England  on 
account  of  the  consistency  with  which  the  Greek  ideal  has  been 
carried  out.  It  was  designed  by  H.  H.  Gallison  of  Boston. 
The  fine  frescoes  of  the  interior,  representing  Greek  scenes,  are 
by  Tommaso  Juglaris,  an  Italian.  The  books  presented  to  the 
town  by  Franklin  are  now  preserved  here.  Opposite  are  the 
buildings  of  Dean  Academy,  a  coeducational  school  founded 
and  endowed  in  1865  by  Dr.  Oliver  Dean,  a  citizen  of  the  town 
who  made  a  fortune  in  the  Amoskeag  Manufacturing  Com- 
pany at  Manchester,  N.H. 

The  town  was  originally  a  part  of  Wrentham,  and  its  early  history 
is  connected  with  that  place.  A  battle  with  the  Indians  took  place 
here  in  1676.  In  1778  the  town  was  separated  from  Wrentham  and 


R.   3   §   2.     HARTFORD   TO   BOSTON  219 

i 

named  in  honor  of  Benjamin  Franklin.  A  hint  was  conveyed  to 
Franklin,  at  that  time  in  Paris,  that  the  gift  of  a  church  bell  would  be 
very  acceptable.  Franklin  sent  a  gift  of  125  books,  observing  that 
the  people  were  probably  "more  fond  of  sense  than  sound." 

Between  Franklin  and  Wrentham  lies  a  rolling  farming 
country.  The  old  Colonial  homestead  in  Mann's  Plain  where 
Horace  Mann  was  born  in  1796  is  still  standing,  but  it  is  large- 
ly spoiled  by  the  'renovations'  of  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago. 

Passing  along  the  shores  of  Wollomonapoag  and  King 
Philip's  Ponds,  now  cheapened  by  the  names  of  Lake  Pearl 
and  Lake  Archer,  the  route  enters  Wrentham  (9.0),  joining 
Route  2  (p  196),  to  Boston,  35.0  m. 

From  the  Bellingham  Town  Hall,  turning  left  with  the  trolley 
on  macadam  road,  the  route  leads  to  South  Milford  (90.3). 
At  the  four  corners  continue  straight  through,  and  half  a  mile 
beyond  bear  right  with  trolley  to 

93.0  MILFORD.  Alt  266  ft.  Pop  (twp)  13,055  (1910),  13,642  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Settled  1667.  Indian  name  Quinshipaug. 
Mfg.  shoes,  straw  and  rubber  goods,  machinery;  granite. 

Milford,  the  first  of  the  'shoe  towns'  of  Massachusetts  to 
be  reached  in  coming  from  the  south,  is  a  thriving  community 
with  several  important  industries.  The  shoe  industry  was 
begun  here  in  1795  by  Arial  Bragg. 

Milford  pink  granite  is  a  fine-grained  granite,  beautiful  in 
color  and  texture,  for  building  purposes.  It  has  been  quarried 
here  for  nearly  a  century.  Two  firms  are  chiefly  engaged  in 
the  work,  Norcross  Bros,  and  the  Massachusetts  Pink  Granite 
Company.  Many  buildings  in  the  town  are  constructed  of  it, 
including  Memorial  Hall,  St.  Mary's  Church,  the  High  School, 
the  Universalist  Church,  and  the  new  Post  Office,  a  federal 
building  erected  in  1913-14.  A  conspicuous  shaft  erected  in 
St.  Mary's  Cemetery  by  Father  Cuddihy  as  a  replica  of  a 
famous  Irish  round  tower,  is  constructed  of  Milford  granite, 
as  is  also  the  Perry  Memorial  recently  erected  at  Put-in-Bay, 
Lake  Erie.  The  quarries  and  mills  have  brought  to  Milford 
a  large  foreign  population,  mainly  Italian,  but  including  many 
other  nationalities. 

Note.  Route  24,  following  East  Main  St.  through  Medway 
and  Dover,  leads  to  Boston  (125.5).  Westward  it  leads  to 
Hopedale  and  Grafton. 

From  Main  and  Exchange  Sts.,  Milford,  the  route  keeps  to 
the  right  with  the  trolley.  A  mile  from  the  town,  where  the 
trolleys  fork,  bear  to  the  left,  following  macadam  State  High- 
way into  Washington  St.,  which  passes  through  the  village  of 
Metcalf,  the  home  of  Kate  Sanborn,  the  writer  and  lecturer. 


MILFORD— FRAMINGHAM 


Half  a  mile  beyond,  from  Phipps  Hill,  we  see  to  the  right  Lake 
Wennakeening,  "a  pleasant  smile."  To  the  left  of  the  road 
is  the  great  Pittsfield  Poultry  Company's  plant.  Further  on, 
on  the  right  on  Highland  St.,  are  the  Winthrop  Nurseries, 
maintained  by  Miss  Mary  E.  Cutler,  a  lecturer  and  authority 
on  farming.  Adjoining  is  the  Wennakeening  Farm,  which 
has  been  in  the  Cutler  family  since  the  early  settlement.  On 
the  left  of  Washington  St.  is  the  Linda  Vista  farm,  the  mag- 
nificent estate  of  L.  E.  P.  Smith,  New  England  manager  of  the 
Metropolitan  Life  Insurance  Company. 

99.5  HOLLISTON.  Alt  200  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2711  (1910),  2788  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Inc.  1724.  Mfg.  woolen  goods,  copper  pumps, 
shoes,  army  blankets,  and  wax  paper;  dairy  products, 
nursery  stock. 

Holliston  is  a  prosperous  residential  country  town  with 
some  diversity  of  manufacturing  interests,  mostly  on  a  small 
scale.  Originally  part  of  Sherborn,  it  was  incorporated  in 
1724  and  named  after  Thomas  Hollis,  the  donor  of  Hollis  Hall, 
Harvard  College. 

Washington  Street  is  the  main  thoroughfare,  with  rows  of 
especially  fine  trees  and  a  number  of  handsome  residences. 
There  are  several  good  examples  of  those  classic  porticoes  so 
much  in  favor  at  the  beginning  of  the  last  century. 

At  East  Holliston  the  road  leaves  Washington  St.  and  follows 
Concord  St.  with  the  trolley  past  the  Travis  Farm,  the  ancient 
house  of  which  was  the  scene  of  the  first  town  meeting  in  1724. 
Along  the  road  many  of  the  eighteenth  century  farmhouses, 
white  with  green  blinds,  have  the  dates  of  erections  above 
their  doorways.  Concord  Street  passes  the  extensive  plant  of 
the  Boston  Ice  Company,  coming  into  Irving  Square,  joining 
Route  24,  which  leads  to  Boston  (125.5),  at 

105.0     FRAMINGHAM  (R.  24). 


(221) 


R.  4.     NEW   YORK   to   ALBANY.  147.5  m. 

Via  the  EAST  BANK  of  the  HUDSON. 

This  route  follows  the  course  of  the  Hudson  river  valley 
along  the  eastern  side  of  the  Hudson  river,  but  keeps  the  river 
in  view  for  only  short  distances.  It  is  a  hilly,  almost  moun- 
tainous region  through  which  the  gorge  of  the  Hudson  makes 
its  way, — a  land  rich  in  the  romance  of  its  history,  which  has 
long  been  a  residential  region  for  the  wealthy  of  New  York. 
It  follows  in  general  the  course  of  the  old  Albany  Post  Road. 

As  was  customary  in  the  history  of  roads,  the  old  Albany  Post  Road 
began  its  life  as  an  Indian  trail,  winding  along  near  the  Hudson  river 
and  making  a  more  or  less  indirect  course  to  Albany.  Gradually, 
as  it  came  to  be  used  by  the  white  people,  its  line  was  straightened, 
it  was  widened  for  the  use  of  wagons,  and  it  passed  from  a  path  into 
a  genuine  road.  In  1703  an  act  was  passed  by  the  Colonial  assembly 
for  "Regulateing  Clearing  and  preserving  Publick  Comon  highways 
thro'out  this  Colony,"  including  one  to  "Extend  from  Kings  Bridge 
in  the  County  of  Westchester  through  the  same  County  of  West- 
chester,  Dutchess  County,  and  the  County  of  Albany."  When 
Frederick  Philipse,  the  'Dutch  millionaire'  as  he  was  called,  built 
the  bridge  over  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek,  he  became,  as  manor  lord, 
responsible  for  the  maintenance  of  the  road  which  led  to  the  bridge, 
the  Albany  Post  Road.  About  1806  the  Highland  Turnpike  Company 
got  control  of  the  road,  improved  and  straightened  it,  put  up  toll  gates, 
and  it  entered  upon  what  may  be  called  its  professional  life,  being 
brought  into  fairly  permanent  shape  and  much  as  we  now  know  it. 
For  years  thereafter  it  was  known  to  many  as  the  Highland  Turnpike. 

The  route  appropriately  belongs  in  a  book  on  New  England 
because  from  it  branch  off  to  the  east  at  various  points  a  num- 
ber of  good  State  Roads  which  offer  several  pleasing  entrances 
to  New  England,  the  following  of  which  are  briefly  described: 

Tarry  town  to  Port  Chester;  connecting  with  Route  5,  to 
the  Berkshires,  Route  3,  to  Danbury  and  Hartford,  and 
Route  i,  to  Bridgeport  and  New  Haven. 

Beacon  to  Pawling  via  Fishkill. 

Poughkeepsie  to  Amenia  and  the  Berkshires. 

Rhinecliff  to  Lakeville,  Conn. 

Hudson  to  South  Egremont  and  the  Berkshires. 


R.  4  §  1.     New  York  to  Poughkeepsie.  73.5  m. 

Via  YONKERS  and  FISHKILL. 

This  section  of  the  route  follows  Riverside  Drive  and  North 
Broadway,  commanding  beautiful  views  of  the  Hudson  and 
the  Berkshires.  Beyond  Peekskill  it  follows  the  new  State 
Road  through  the  hills,  away  from  the  river. 

From  the  Plaza  or  Columbus  Circle,  the  winding  drives  of 
Central  Park  are  followed  keeping  left  of  the  Mall  and  the 

(222) 


R.  4   §    I.     NEW  YORK   TO    POUGHKEEPSIE  223 

Webster  statue  and  emerging  into  y2nd  St.,  which  is  followed 
into  Riverside  Drive,  past  the  Soldiers'  Monument  and  Grant's 
Tomb,  and  across  the  Viaduct  into  Broadway,  which  leads 
across  the  Ship  Canal. 

The  United  States  Ship  Canal  was  the  work  of  the  U.S.  Govern- 
ment, which  planned  its  construction  and  undertook  the  great  task 
of  putting  it  through  to  completion.  Before  the  year  1817  there  were 
two  small  brooks  running  where  now  the  line  of  the  center  of  the 
bridge's  swing  span  is,  and  these  streams  were  developed  by  Curtis 
and  John  Bolton  into  a  canal,  beside  which  they  established  their 
quarries  and  marble  mill.  This  little  canal  was  the  seed  from  which 
the  later  canal  on  so  much  larger  a  scale  sprang.  The  original  swing 
span  was  single,  and  not  until  igo6  was  this  replaced  by  the  double 
deck  swing  span  which  is  now  in  use. 

Cross  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek.  Irving  tells  us  in  his  Knick- 
erbocker History  of  the  legend  of  the  Dutch  trumpeter, 
Anthony  van  Corlear,  who  swore  he  would  swim  across  it 
"en  spijt  den  duyvile,"  but  drowned  in  the  attempt.  During 
the  Revolution  this  was  the  southern  boundary  of  the  "neutral 
ground"  (p  71). 

Forts  Washington  and  Lee  were  the  twin  guardians  of  the  Hudson 
river  at  the  time  of  the  Revolution.  The  former,  on  the  east  shore, 
stood  at  about  iSist  St.,  the  latter  on  the  Jersey  shore  directly  oppo- 
site. Washington  was  in  the  habit  of  crossing  between  them  at  what 
is  now  Fort  Washington  Point.  A  public  ferry,  called  Burdette's, 
operated  by  Peter  Burdette  of  Fort  Lee,  was  also  a  means  of  crossing, 
and  the  descendants  of  Burdette  are  still  living  in  the  town  of  Fort 
Lee.  It  was  in  1776  that  the  two  forts  figured  prominently  in  United 
States  history.  In  November,  soon  after  the  battle  of  White  Plains, 
Howe  opened  his  attack  upon  Fort  Washington  and  summoned  Colonel 
Magaw  to  surrender.  The  American  officer  thereupon  made  his 
famous  reply,  "Actuated  by  the  most  glorious  cause  that  mankind 
ever  fought  in,  I  am  determined  to  defend  this  post  to  the  very  last 
extremity."  Although  Howe  persisted,  the  British  losses  were  five  to 
one  when  they  finally  took  the  fort  and  its  entire  troops  on  November 
16,  sending  them  to  the  Sugar  House  and  other  dreadful  prisons  in 
New  York  City.  Washington  with  his  general  officers  stood  weeping 
on  the  opposite  shore  while  he  saw  the  fortress  fall.  The  abandon- 
ment of  Fort  Lee  was  now  inevitable,  and  one  of  the  most  tragic  hours 
of  the  whole  war  followed.  Camp  kettles  were  left  on  the  fires,  over 
four  hundred  tents  left  standing,  and  provisions  enough  to  last  3000 
men  for  three  months  were  abandoned.  What  little  baggage  could  be 
taken  in  wagons  was  hauled  off  while  the  American  troops  marched 
hurriedly  back  to  Hackensack,  barefooted,  ragged,  exposed  to  the  cold 
November  rain.  The  retreat  left  Fort  Lee  open  to  Cornwallis,  who 
came  down  the  west  shore,  and  both  forts  were  now  British  possessions. 

The  route  passes  through  Riverdale,  which  lies  on  a  rocky 
plateau  high  up  above  the  Hudson.  Here  is  the  Riverdale 
Country  School  for  Boys.  The  Palisades  on  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  Hudson  are  here  at  their  best.  They  extend  for  about 
fifteen  miles  with  a  height  of  200  to  500  feet,  and  consist  of 
a  basaltic  rock  with  a  columnar  formation.  This  trap  rock 
was  intruded  as  molten  lava  into  the  Triassic  sandstones  and 
developed  prismatic  jointing  on  cooling. 


224  NEW   YORK— DOBBS    FERRY 

A  mile  and  a  half  before  arriving  at  Yonkers  the  route  passes 
Mount  St.  Vincent,  a  convent  which  is  the  American  head- 
quarters of  the  Sisters  of  Charity.  The  buildings  include 
Forthill,  formerly  the  home  of  the  famous  actor  Edwin  Forrest. 

13.0     YONKERS.     Alt  10  ft,  R.R.     Pop  93,383  (1910),  90,948  (1915). 
Westchester   Co.     Settled   1646.     Mfg.   carpets,   hats,   ma- 
chine products,  rubber  goods,  electrical  supplies,  elevators, 
electric  motors,  and  sugar.     Value  of  Product,  $33,548,000. 
Yonkers  is  both  a  manufacturing  center  and  a  rapidly  grow- 
ing residential  suburb  of  New  York.     There  are  two  chief  resi- 
dential sections.     The  one  to  the  north  includes  Amackassin 
Heights  and  Glenwood.     Here  is  the  old  Colgate  mansion  and 
Greystone,  on  North  Broadway,  now  the  residence  of  Samuel 
Untermeyer,  but  formerly  the  home  of  Samuel  J.  Tilden,  the 
New  York  politician  who  made  such  a  stirring  campaign  for 


the  Presidency.  The  other  residential  region  lies  to  the  south 
and  includes  Ludlow,  Cortlandt  Terrace,  and  Park  Hill  ad- 
joining Riverdale.  St.  Joseph's  Theological  Seminary  (R.C., 
1896)  and  the  Halsted  School  for  Girls,  founded  in  1874,  are 
located  here. 

Two  blocks  west  of  Getty  Square  is  the  historic  Philipse 
Manor  House  (1642).  The  mansion  was  enlarged  to  its  present 
size  in  1745  and  was  confiscated  in  1779  during  the  Revolution 
because  its  owner,  Frederick  Philipse,  was  suspected  of  Tory- 
ism. It  was  later  used  as  the  City  Hall,  but  is  now  owned  by 
the  State  and  maintained  as  a  museum  for  Colonial  relics. 
Here  lived  the  pretty  Mary  Philipse,  who,  it  is  said,  was  Wash- 
ington's first  love. 


R.   4  §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   POUGHKEEPSIE  225 

On  the  site  of  Yonkers  stood  the  Indian  settlement  of  Nappecka- 
mack,  "rapid  water  settlement,"  centering  around  the  rock  at  the 
mouth  of  Nepperhan  Creek,  where  the  natives  worshiped.  In  1639 
it  was  included  in  the  "Keskeskick"  purchase  made  by  the  Dutch 
West  India  Company.  In  1646  it  was  granted  to  Adriaen  van  der 
Donck,  New  Netherland's  earliest  historian  and  jurist.  His  grant  was 
known  as  "Colen  Donck"  (Donck's  colony),  and  his  settlement  be- 
came known  as  "De  Jonkherr's  land"  (young  lord's  land).  The  latter 
was  taken  over  by  Frederick  Philipse  for  his  manor  of  Philipsburgh. 
Washington's  army  occupied  a  portion  of  the  land  early  in  the  Revo- 
lution and  fought  several  skirmishes  hereabouts. 

The  route  bears  left  across  Getty  Square  and  turns  right  on 
North  Broadway  upgrade.  At  three  corners  at  stone  gates 
(16.5)  bear  left.  The  gates  belong  to  the  quaint  old  mansion 
recently  remodeled  as  Long  Vue  Inn. 

17.5  HASTINGS.  Alt  12  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4552  (1910),  5461  (1915). 
Westchester  Co.  Mfg.  wire  cable  and  asphalt  blocks.  Part 
of  town  of  Greenburg. 

Here  are  the  great  works  of  the  National  Cable  and  Conduit 
Company,  where  wire  and  tubing  are  drawn  and  insulated  wire 
and  cables  made.  The  road  we  have  come  over,  from  New 
York  to  Dobbs  Ferry,  except  for  a  short  stretch  on  either  side 
of  Yonkers,  is  paved  with  asphalt  blocks  of  the  Hastings 
Pavement  Company,  whose  plant  is  located  in  Hastings. 

The  town  of  Hastings  was  once  the  estate  of  Peter  Post,  who  occu- 
pied a  little  stone  house  here  in  the  late  eighteenth  century.  He  was 
a  patriot  and  assisted  Colonel  Sheldon  in  surprising  a  party  of  Hes- 
sians by  giving  them  to  understand  that  the  Americans  were  in  one 
direction  whereas  they  were  in  reality  in  the  other  and  ready  to  dash 
forth  when  the  Hessians  passed.  The  success  of  the  ruse  left  every 
enemy  dead  except  one,  who  reported  Post's  act,  to  the  end  that  poor 
Post  was  beaten  within  an  inch  of  his  life.  After  the  Revolution  his 
house  became  a  wellknown  iavern  and  stood  for  many  years. 

Opposite  Hastings  is  Indian  Head,  the  highest  point  of  the 
Palisades.  A  half  mile  beyond,  on  the  opposite  shore,  is  the 
boundary  between  New  Jersey  and  New  York.  The  top  of  the 
Hudson  terrace  above  for  miles  and  miles  is  occupied  by  mag- 
nificent estates  commanding  beautiful  views  of  the  river. 

18.5  DOBBS  FERRY.  Alt  12  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3455  (1910),  4030 
(1915).  Westchester  Co.  Mfg.  gas  burners,  lager  beer. 

This  picturesque  little  village,  which  was  the  scene  of  much 
military  activity  during  the  Revolution  because  of  its  position 
on  the  Hudson,  contains  many  fine  country  places,  one  of 
which  was  once  Bob  Ingersoll's.  The  Livingston  Manor 
House,  where  Washington  had  his  headquarters  and  where 
in  1783  General  Washington  and  Sir  Guy  Carleton  met  for 
the  final  settlement  of  the  terms  on  which  England  recognized 
American  independence,  is  situated  here. 

The  room  is  preserved  where  the  evacuation  papers  were 


226  DOBBS    FERRY— TARRYTOWN 

signed,  and  also  the  rosewood  table  at  which  Lafayette  dined, 
which  used  to  be  stretched  diagonally  across  this  room  when 
many  distinguished  guests  were  gathered  at  its  groaning  board. 
In  front  of  this  house  is  the  Washington-Rochambeau  Monu- 
ment, erected  in  1894,  where,  as  the  inscription  states,  on 
July  6,  1781,  the  French  allies  under  Rochambeau  joined  the 
American  Army.  The  Misses  Masters  School  for  Girls  is  so 
identified  with  this  place  that  the  school  is  usually  referred 
to  by  its  patrons  as  'Dobbs  Ferry.' 

At  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  Jeremiah  Dobbs,  a  Delaware 
Swede,  set  up  a  ferry  maintained  by  the  family  for  a  century  and  more. 
Dobbs  Ferry  had  been  a  part  of  Philipse  Manor  and  consequently 
was  forfeited  in  the  Revolution.  In  1776  the  British  occupied  this 
point  and  in  the  following  year  General  Benjamin  Lincoln,  command- 
ing the  Continental  Division,  made  this  his  headquarters.  July  4, 
1781,  Washington  encamped  here  with  his  army. 

To  the  left  is  the  Ardsley  Country  Club  (20.5),  and  just 
beyond,  Nevis,  built  by  the  son  of  Alexander  Hamilton  and 
named  after  his  father's  birthplace  in  the  West  Indies. 

21.0  IRVINGTON.  Alt  9  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2319  (1910),  2379  (1915). 
Westchester  Co.  Named  in  honor  of  Washington  Irving. 

About  Irvington  are  a  considerable  number  of  castellated 
residences  of  half  a  century  ago.  Miss  Mason's  School  for 
Girls  occupies  one  of  these  buildings.  To  the  right  is  the 
notable  estate  of  the  late  Daniel  G.  Reed,  a  famous  Wall 
Street  operator.  This  was  formerly  Miss  Bennett's  School, 
now  at  Milford. 

Beyond  Irvington,  the  road  to  the  left  leads  to  Sunnyside, 
the  old  home  of  Washington  Irving.  The  house  is  covered 
with  ivy  grown  from  a  sprig  from  Abbotsford,  given  to  Irving 
by  Sir  Walter  Scott. 

The  Palisades  here  become  less  prominent  and  the  Hudson 
expands  into  the  lake-like  Tappan  Zee,  ten  miles  long,  and  three 
to  four  miles  wide.  Just  before  reaching  Tarrytown,  on  the 
left  is  Lyndhurst,  and  the  Repton  School  for  Boys,  the  estate 
of  Mrs.  Finley  J.  Shepard  (Helen  M.  Gould). 

24.5  TARRYTOWN.  Alt  7  ft.  Pop  (twp)  5600  (1910),  5752  (1915). 
Westchester  Co.  Settled  1645.  Mfg.  drills  and  automo- 
biles. Ferry  to  Nyack. 

Tarrytown  has  developed  from  a  long  straggling  village  on 
both  sides  of  Broadway,  which  was  part  of  the  old  Albany  Post 
Road,  to  a  residential  suburb.  The  residential  section  extends 
over  high  land  commanding  beautiful  views  of  the  Hudson. 
Northeast  of  the  town  is  Kaakout  (Dutch,  "Kigkuit,"  "look- 
out"), the  estate  of  John  D.  Rockefeller,  and  to  the  southeast 
in  a  beautiful  situation  high  on  the  hills  is  the  Hackley  School 


R.  4  §   I.     NEW   YORK   TO   POUGHKEEPSIE  227 

for  Boys.  Opposite  is  Nyack,  N.Y.,  reached  by  steam  ferry 
(3.0)  across  the  Tappan  Zee.  The  Knox  School,  the  Misses 
Metcalf's  School  for  Girls,  and  Marymount  are  located  here. 

Tarrytown  is  a  modification  of  its  former  name  "tarwen  dorp," 
"wheat  town,"  on  account  of  the  large  crops  of  wheat.  It  was  built 
on  the  site  of  the  Indian  village  Alipconk,  "place  of  elms,"  burned 
by  the  Dutch  in  1644.  Soon  after  it  was  settled  it  became  part  of  the 
great  Philipse  Manor  and  a  manor  house  was  built  at  Kingsland's 
Point,  north  of  the  present  town.  Dr.  Hamilton  Wright  Mabie  says, 
"There  is  probably  no  other  locality  in  America,  taking  into  account 
history,  tradition,  the  old  church,  the  manor  house,  and  the  mill, 
which  so  entirely  conserves  the  form  and  spirit  of  Dutch  civilization 
in  the  New  World."  Major  John  Andre  was  captured  on  the  Post 
Road  on  the  way  from  Tarrytown  in  1780.  A  marble  shaft  surmounted 
by  a  bronze  statue  of  a  Continental  soldier  marks  the  spot.  Wash- 
ington Irving  was  long  warden  of  Christ  Church  here. 

Note.  A  route  leads  southeast  from  Broadway,  forking  left 
from  trolley  to  Port  Chester.  At  Elmsford  Station  (3.5)  this 
route  crosses  Route  5  (p  236)  to  Mt.  Kisco,  Brewster,  Pawling, 
the  Berkshires,  and  Vermont.  At  White  Plains  (7.0)  the  route 
crosses  Route  3  (p  204)  to  Bedford,  Danbury,  Waterbury, 
Hartford,  and  Boston.  From  White  Plains  the  route  follows 
the  macadam  to  Port  Chester  (13.5)  on  Route  i  (p  72)  to 
Bridgeport,  New  Haven,  and  Boston. 

Beyond  Tarrytown  at  the  brick  church,  in  the  fork,  bear  left. 
The  righthand  road,  which  is  perhaps  the  more  attractive 
way,  leads  through  the  estate  of  John  D.  Rockefeller  to  Briar- 
cliff.  Just  beyond  on  the  right  is  Sleepy  Hollow  Cemetery, 
the  graveyard  of  the  Old  Dutch  Church,  which  was  built  in 
1699  with  bricks  brought  from  Holland.  It  is  traversed  by 
Pocantico  or  Mill  Brook  with  the  bridge  across  which  Ichabod 
Crane  rushed  when  pursued  by  the  Headless  Horseman. 
Both  Washington  Irving  and  Carl  Schurz  (1829-1906)  are 
buried  in  this  cemetery. 

To  the  left  of  the  church  and  bridge  lies  the  land  of  the 
earlier  Philipse  manor,  antedating  the  one  at  Yonkers.  The 
spreading  old  white  manor  house  still  stands.  In  its  yard  is 
the  well  with  the  long  balancing  sweep  described  by  Irving, 
and  until  recently  the  old  mill  stood,  a  ruin  beside  the  creek. 
The  actual  bridge  over  which  Ichabod  Crane  rode  long  ago 
fell  to  ruin,  being  a  flimsy  wooden  affair,  but  its  exact  span 
was  bridged  by  a  new  structure  in  1912,  the  gift  of  William 
Rockefeller,  as  a  permanent  memorial  to  Irving's  famous  tale. 
Nearby  is  Rockwood  Hall,  the  home  of  William  Rockefeller. 

The  route  next  passes  through  Scarboro  (27.5).  At  this 
point  a  good  road  leaves  the  river,  winding  up  among  the 
Pocantico  Hills  to  Briarcliff  Manor.  Mrs.  Dow's  School  is 
located  here. 


228  OSSINING— FISHKILL    VILLAGE 


29.5  OSSINING.  Alt  8  ft.  Pop  (twp)  11,480  (1910),  10,326  (1915). 
Westchester  Co.  Settled  1700.  Mfg.  stoves,  metal  ware, 
porous  plasters,  underwear,  and  marine  engines 

The  village  is  finely  situated,  overlooking  the  Tappan  Zee. 
It  is  a  residential  town  for  people  of  moderate  means.  Here 
are  a  number  of  wellknown  private  schools, — The  Dr.  Hoi- 
brook  School  for  Boys,  Mt.  Pleasant  Academy,  and  the  Ossin- 
ing  School  for  Girls.  Ossining  has  most  varied  industries, 
including  Rand  McNally's  press  and  the  Alcock  Porou; 
Plaster  plant.  On  the  river  front  is  the  famous  Sing  Sing 
State  Prison,  which  has  been  the  scene  of  so  much  disgraceful 
political  corruption  and  the  courageous  effort  of  Thomas  Mott 
Osborne  to  reform  the  institution  and  introduce  modern  methods 
in  spite  of  the  determined  opposition  of  the  political  gangsters. 

This  locality  derives  its  name  from  the  Sin-Sinck  Indians.  For- 
merly known  as  Sing  Sing,  its  name  was  changed  in  1901  to  differ- 
entiate the  town  from  the  penitentiary.  The  territory  about  here  was 
a  part  of  Philipse  Manor,  first  settled  about  1700. 

Two  miles  beyond  Ossining,  the  road  crosses  Croton  River, 
the  waters  of  which  are  stored  and  diverted  by  a  dam  a  few 
miles  above  and  conducted  by  the  Croton  Aqueduct  to  New 
York.  Near  Ossining  this  is  carried  across  a  ravine  by  a  stone 
arch  with  an  8o-foot  span.  Just  beyond  the  Croton  river, 
Croton  Point  extends  out  into  the  Hudson  for  a  distance  of 
one  and  a  half  miles,  ending  in  Tellers  Point.  It  was  off  here 
that  the  British  man-of-war  "Vulture"  lay  at  anchor,  await- 
ing the  return  of  Andre  from  his  conference  with  Benedict 
Arnold  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  A  party  of  Americans, 
seeing  the  "Vulture"  lying  within  range,  brought  down  a 
cannon  from  Verplanck's  Point  and  used  it  so  well  that  the 
vessel  was  compelled  to  drop  down  stream.  This  prevented 
Andre  from  returning  on  board,  so  he  crossed  at  King's 
Ferry  to  Verplanck's  Point  arid  made  the  attempt  to  reach 
New  York  by  land  which  resulted  in  his  capture. 

The  route  passes  through  Harmon  (32.5),  a  new  residential 
town  in  the  course  of  development,  and  just  beyond  reaches 

33.5     CROTON-ON-HUDSON.     Alt  9  ft.     Pop  (twp)   1086  (1910), 

2243  (1915).     Westchester  Co. 

To  the  west  lie  the  Kitchawan  Hills.  Here  the  Hudson  is 
at  its  widest  and  is  known  as  Haverstraw  Bay  from  the  town 
opposite,  which  lies  at  the  base  of  High  Tor  (820  ft).  Three 
miles  above  is  Stony  Point,  marked  by  a  lighthouse.  The 
fort  here  was  taken  by  the  British  and  six  weeks  later  was  suc- 
cessfully stormed  in  one  of  the  most  brilliant  exploits  of  the 
Revolution  by  'Mad  Anthony'  Wayne,  on  the  night  of  July 
15,  1779.  Croton  perpetuates  the  name  of  an  Indian  chief, 
Kenoten,  "wind." 


R.   4   §    I.     NEW    YORK   TO   POUGHKEEPSIE  22Q 

The  route  runs  inland,  cutting  off  the  bend  in  the  river  where 
Verplanck's  Point  projects  opposite  Stony  Point.  It  was  here 
in  1778  that  Baron  Steuben,  the  Prussian  officer,  effectually 
taught  the  Continental  soldiers  the  efficiency  of  drill. 

Passing  through  Montrose,  the  route  turns  right  on  South  St., 
curving  left  into  Division  St.,  to 

41.5  PEEKSKILL.  Alt  10  ft.  Pop  (twp)  15,245  (1910),  15,502 
(1915).  Westchester  Co.  Mfg.  stoves,  boilers,  brick 
machines,  hats,  underwear,  and  yeast  cakes.  Value  of 
Product,  $7,251,000. 

Peekskill  is  the  home  of  many  New  York  business  men  and 
a  number  of  private  schools.  Its  manufactures  are  of  consid- 
erable importance. 

Peekskill  ("kill" — "brook"  or  "creek")  was  named  for  Jan  Peek, 
a  Dutch  seventeenth  century  mariner  who  followed  Peekskill  Creek, 
thinking  he  was  on  the  Hudson,  until  his  ship  ran  aground.  Jan  was 
a  tapster  who  had  headquarters  on  Broadway,  and  whose  character 
was  so  "scandalous"  that  the  sheriff  reported  that  he  found  "drinking 
clubs  on  divers  nights  at  the  house  of  Jan  Peek  with  dancing  and  jump- 
ing and  entertainment  of  disorderly  people."  In  spite  of  this,  the 
village  named  for  him  grew  to  be  a  godly  place  and  has  boasted  many 
fine  churches. 

Opposite  is  Dunderberg,  at  the  foot  of  which  Captain  Kidd 
deposited  a  portion  of  that  burdensome  treasure  which  he 
spread  so  generously  over  the  land,  if  all  the  local  traditions 
are  to  be  believed.  Just  south  of  it  is  Tompkins  Cover  with 
limestone  quarries.  To  the  north  of  Dunderberg  is  lona 
Island  with  stores  of  naval  ammunition.  From  here  north- 
ward, the  Hudson  enters  the  section  known  as  the  Highlands, 
and  the  route  runs  inland,  cutting  off  a  bend  in  the  river,  and 
takes  the  right  fork  (46.0)  on  the  new  State  Road  which  runs 
inland  to  Fishkill. 

Note.  The  lefthand  route  leads  to  Garrison-on-the-Hudson 
(62.0),  which  lies  opposite  West  Point,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  steam  ferry.  Just  above  are  Constitution  Island 
and  Cold  Spring  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Forest  (1425  ft),  opposite 
Storm  King  Mountain  (1530  ft). 

61.0  FISHKILL  VILLAGE.  Alt  223  ft,  R.R.  Pop  (twp)  516  (1910), 
531(1915).  Dutchess  Co.  Ferry  to  Newburgh. 

The  village  lies  in  the  valley  of  Fishkill  Creek  among  the 
hills,  four  miles  back  from  the  Hudson.  Here  there  are  two 
fine  old  eighteenth  century  churches.  Cooper  made  this  vil- 
lage the  scene  of  many  of  the  incidents  in  "The  Spy." 

To  the  south  is  Mt.  Beacon  (1585  ft).  An  inclined  railway 
ascends  to  the  summit,  where  there  is  a  casino  commanding 
surpassing  views  over  the  valley  of  the  Hudson  and  the  sur- 
rounding hills  and  mountains.  During  the  Revolution  beacon 
fires  were  kindled  here  to  signal  the  approach  of  the  British. 


230  FISHKILL   VILLAGE— RHI NEB KCK 

Note.  To  the  left  are  Matteawan  and  Beacon,  the  latter 
formerly  called  Fishkill  Landing,  lying  opposite  Newburgh, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam  ferry.  One  of  the 
principal  routes  from  Pennsylvania  and  the  West  to  New 
England  crosses  the  Hudson  by  this  ferry  and  passes  through 
Fishkill  Village,  bearing  left  at  the  three  corners  by  the  church. 
Crossing  the  R.R.  a  mile  and  a  half  beyond,  it  continues  over 
the  iron  bridge,  turning  left  and  following  macadam  to  Hope- 
well  (15.0  from  Beacon).  Here  the  route  bears  left  on  mac- 
adam with  the  Pawling  signs,  past  West  Pawling  (22.0), 
into  Pawling  (26.0).  Here  it  joins  Route  5  (p  239)  to  Salis- 
bury and  the  Berkshires,  where  it  connects  with  various  routes 
for  the  principal  New  England  points. 

66.0     WAPPINGERS  FALLS.     Alt  100  ft.     Pop  (twp)  3195  (1910), 

3742  (1915).     Dutchess  Co.     Mfg.  prints  and  overalls. 
Wappinger  Creek  here  furnishes  valuable  waterpower  and 
there  are  large  print  works  and  manufactories  of  overalls  here. 
The  name  is  derived  from  that  of  an  Indian  tribe.     Here  the 
route  rejoins  the  valley  road  from  Beacon. 

73.5  POUGHKEEPSIE.  Alt  170  ft.  Pop  29,598  (1910),  32,714 
(1915).  Dutchess  Co.  Settled  1698.  Mfg.  pig  iron,  mow- 
ing machines,  horseshoes,  automobiles,  glassware,  and  gas- 
oline engines.  Ferry  to  Highland. 

Poughkeepsie  is  built  on  the  terraces  facing  the  Hudson, 
rising  200  feet  above  the  river  and,  in  part,  on  the  level  plateau 
above.  It  is  the  scene  in  June  of  the  intercollegiate  boat  races, 
in  which  the  chief  American  colleges,  except  Yale  and  Harvard, 
have  rowed  annually  since  1895.  On  the  outskirts  of  the  town, 
along  the  banks  of  the  river,  are  many  handsome  residences 
and  beautiful  estates,  some  of  which  are  still  in  the  possession 
of  the  original  Knickerbocker  families.  The  Hudson  is  crossed 
at  Poughkeepsie  by  the  great  cantilever  railway  bridge,  con- 
structed 1886-89.  It  is  one  and  a  half  miles  long  and  the 
rails  are  200  feet  above  high  water. 

Poughkeepsie  is  a  considerable  educational  center.  Two 
miles  east  of  the  city  center  is  Vassar  College,  the  grounds  of 
which  include  an  area  of  over  400  acres.  It  is  the  oldest  and 
perhaps  the  best  known  of  American  women's  colleges  and 
has  just  celebrated  its  fiftieth  anniversary.  It  was  founded  in 
1861  by  Matthew  Vassar,  an  Englishman  and  a  wealthy  brewer. 
There  are  a  number  of  private  schools,  including  Putnam  Hall 
and  Glen  Eden  Seminary,  both  for  girls,  and  the  long  estab- 
lished Riverview  Academy. 

Poughkeepsie  was  settled  by  the  Dutch  about  i6g8  and  its  name  is 
derived  from  the  Indian  word  "  Apokeepsing,"  "a  safe  harbor."  The 
New  York  legislature  met  here  for  many  years  during  the  latter  part 


R.   4  §   2.     POUGHKEEPSIE   TO   ALBANY  231 

of  the  eighteenth  century,  and  in  1780  the  Federal  Constitution  was 
ratified  here  by  the  New  York  Convention. 

Note.  A  State  Highway  leads  from  Poughkeepsie  to  Amenia 
and  the  Berkshires.  At  the  corner  of  Main  and  Market  Sts., 
turn  east  with  trolley  on  Main  St.,  forking  left  at  blacksmith 
shop  (2.0)  and  passing  on  the  left  the  De  Witt  Clinton  man- 
sion, to  Pleasant  Valley  (7.0),  a  region  of  handsome  estates. 
Continue  through  Washington  Hollow.  At  the  crossroads,  the 
route  turns  to  the  left,  passing  the  Bennett  School  for  Girls, 
directly  on  the  left,  and  an  eighth  of  a  mile  beyond,  on  the  right, 
the  Millbrook  Inn.  After  crossing  R.R.,  pass  directly  through 
Millbrook  (15.5),  the  main  street  of  which  leads  to  the  lodge 
at  the  entrance  to  Daheim,  the  Dietrich  estate.  Here  turn  to 
the  right  on  the  State  Highway  which  continues  over  the  hills 
through  the  hamlets  of  Mabbettsville  (17.5)  and  Lithgow 
(21.0),  to  Amenia  (26.0),  where  the  road  joins  Route  5  (p  241). 

R.  4  §  2.     Poughkeepsie  to  Albany.  74.0  m. 

Leaving  Poughkeepsie  by  way  of  Washington  St.,  we  pass 
under  the  eastern  approaches  of  the  great  Hudson  river  bridge 
and  by  numerous  residential  estates. 

6.0     HYDE  PARK.     Alt  8  ft,  R.R.     Pop.  3019.     Dutchess  Co. 

From  here  on,  the  river  banks  become  much  lower  and  the 
Catskills  are  a  prominent  feature  in  the  distance  across  the 
river.  Just  beyond  the  village  on  the  river  front  is  the  F.  W. 
Vanderbilt  estate  and  on  the  opposite  bank  is  the  home  of 
John  Burroughs. 

Just  beyond  Staatsburg  (10.0)  on  the  right  is  Dinsmore 
Point  and  the  residence  of  the  late  William  B.  Dinsmore,  once 
president  of  the  Adams  Express  Company.  The  route  runs 
inland,  following  the  State  Road  to  Rhinebeck.  The  river 
road  passes  through  Rhinecliff,  near  which  is  the  estate  of 
Vincent  Astor. 

16.0  RHINEBECK.  Alt  203  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1548  (1910),  1580 
(1915}.  Dutchess  Co.  Mfg.  carriages  and  shellac;  violet- 
growing.  Ferry  to  Kingston. 

Rhinebeck  is  the  center  of  the  violet-growing  industry,  to 
which  twenty-five  square  miles  are  given  over.  It  is  also  the 
distributing  center  of  the  region  round  about.  The  name  is 
combined  from  William  Beckman,  who  founded  the  town,  and 
his  native  Rhineland.  The  Beckman  House  is  a  fine  example 
of  seventeenth  century  Dutch  architecture. 

Two  miles  to  the  west  is  Rhinecliff,  which  is  connected  with 
Kingston,  opposite,  by  a  steam  ferry  (toll  30  or  35  cts,  pas- 
sengers 13  cts). 


232  RHINEBECK— ALBANY 

Note.  From  Rhinecliff  a  cross-country  route  leads  to 
Lakeville,  Conn.,  and  the  Berkshires  or  the  Connecticut  region. 
Passing  through  Rhinebeck  (2.0),  on  East  Market  St.  the 
route  forks  left  at  the  blacksmith's  shop  (5.5),  leading  through 
Rock  City  (8.5),  Lafayette  (13.0),  into  Pine  Plains  (19.5). 
Here  the  lefthand  road  leads  to  Great  Barrington.  Continu- 
ing straight  on,  along  Church  St.,  and  crossing  R.R.,  the  route 
leads  through  Culvers  Corners  (23.5).  Bearing  right  across 
R.R.  and  then  left  on  the  macadam  road  through  Millerton 
(29.5),  it  forks  left  over  R.R.  (31.5)  to  Lakeville  (33.5)  on 
Route  5  (p  242). 

21.S     RED  HOOK.     Alt    217   ft.     Pop    960.     Dutchess    Co.     Mfg. 

chocolate;  tobacco. 

This  village  is  in  the  midst  of  a  farming  district  and  has 
tobacco  factories.  The  name  is  derived  from  Roode  Hoeck 
which  the  Dutch  applied  to  a  nearby  marsh  covered  with 
cranberries.  The  route  runs  still  further  inland  through  Upper 
Red  Hook  (25.0).  Five  miles  to  the  west,  on  the  Hudson,  is 
North  Bay,  where  Fulton  built  the  "Clermont."  At  the  fork, 
bear  left  across  the  county  line,  immediately  passing  through 
Nevis  (27.0),  named  from  Alexander  Hamilton's  birthplace. 

29.0     CLERMONT.     Alt  226  ft.     Pop  (twp)  800.     Columbia  Co. 

It  was  the  original  seat  of  the  Livingstons,  and  Chancellor 
Livingston,  the  friend  of  Fulton,  named  it  for  the  first  Ameri- 
can steamboat.  Opposite  is  Maiden,  above  which  is  Kaater- 
skill  Mountain  (2145  ft),  with  its  summer  hotels. 

Beyond  take  left  fork,  following  State  Highway  straight 
through  Blue  Stores  (30.5),  a  crossroads  hamlet. 

33.5     LIVINGSTON.     Alt  198  ft.     Pop  (twp)  1620.     Columbia  Co. 

This  town  was  named  for  Robert  R.  Livingston.  There  is 
a  fine  view  across  the  river  of  the  'Man  in  the  Mountain'  in 
the  Catskills.  Catskill,  on  the  west  bank,  is  at  the  mouth  of 
Catskill  Creek,  and  is  a  good  entrance  to  the  mountains.  This 
was  the  highest  point  reached  by  Hudson's  ship,  the  "Half 
Moon,"  but  he  sent  small  boats  up  to  Waterloo. 

42.0  HUDSON.  Alt  150  ft  Pop  11,417  (1910),  11,544  (1915). 
County-seat  of  Columbia  Co.  Settled  1784.  Mfg.  clothing, 
car  wheels,  furniture,  paper  boxes,  ice-handling  machines, 
knit  goods,  foundry  products,  bricks,  tiles,  paper,  and  beer. 
Ferry  to  Athens. 

The  city  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  slope  of  Prospect 
Hill.  Promenade  Park  on  the  bluff  above  the  steamboat  land- 
ing commands  a  fine  view  of  the  river  and  the  Catskill  Moun- 
tains. The  town  has  a  river  trade  and  important  manufac- 
tures with  a  total  value  of  factory  products  of  over  $4,000,000, 
and  here  are  located  two  large  Portland  cement  works. 


R.   4  §   2.     POUGHKEEPSIE   TO   ALBANY  233 

Hudson  was  settled  by  thrifty  New  Englanders  from  Nantucket  and 
Marthas  Vineyard,  and  though  115  miles  from  the  ocean,  it  success- 
fully carried  on  a  whaling  industry  and  considerable  foreign  commerce, 
both  of  which  were  destroyed  in  the  War  of  1812. 

Note.  From  Hudson  a  State  Highway  leads  eastward  to 
South  Egremont  and  the  Berkshires.  From  the  Ferry  it 
crosses  the  city  by  Front  and  Warren  Sts.,  at  the  public  square 
turning  left  on  Columbia  St.  which  is  continued  as  Columbia 
Turnpike.  Claverack  (5.0)  was  probably  named  for  the 
Dutch  "klaver-akker,"  "clover-field";  but  " klaver "  may  mean 
"opening"  or  "side  gorge,"  the  latter  referring  to  the  creek 
which  here  joins  the  Hudson.  The  Dutch  skippers  divided  the 
Hudson  into  thirteen  "racks"  or  "reaches." 

The  route  then  goes  over  the  hills  through  the  hamlet  of 
Hollowville,  and  Martindale  (n.o),  following  a  narrow  tribu- 
tary valley  into  the  broader  upper  valley  of  Taghkanick  to 
Craryville  (15.0)  and  Hillsdale  (18.0).  Here  the  road  rises 
and  on  the  right  is  a  fine  view  of  Mt.  Everett  (2624  ft).  At 
(24.0)  South  Egremont,  Mass.,  it  joins  Route  5  (p  245). 

From  the  Public  Square  in  Hudson,  the  main  route  follows 
Columbia  St.  and  Green  St.  to  the  macadam  State  Highway 
over  R.R.,  through  the  little  hamlet  of  Stottville  (45.0),  and 
descends  to  Stockport  (47.5).  Here  the  route  turns  right, 
crossing  Claverack  Creek,  and  follows  along  the  valley  of 
Kinderhook  Creek  through  Chittenden  Falls  to  Stuyvesant 
Falls  (50.5).  Crossing  Kinderhook  Creek  it  continues  to 

54.2  KINDERHOOK.  Alt  240  ft.  Pop  827  (1915).  Columbia  Co. 
Mfg.  knit  hoods. 

Kinderhook  was  an  important  coaching  center  before  the 
railroad  came.  The  isyth  milestone  still  remains  by  the 
grove  not  far  from  the  cemetery. 

One  of  the  finest  of  the  Dutch  Colonial  houses  is  that  built 
by  Stephen  van  Alen  (1721),  on  the  right  as  we  approach  the 
village.  Across  the  road  from  the  Brick  Church  is  the  Van 
Schaack  mansion  where  Burgoyne  was  entertained  after  his 
capture.  A  mile  or  more  beyond  the  village  on  the  Post  Road 
is  the  Van  Alen  Homestead  (1737),  where  Katrina  van  Tassel 
lived.  Still  further  on  is  Lindenwald,  originally  the  Van  Ness 
homestead,  enlarged  and  improved  by  President  Van  Buren. 

56.0  VALATIE.  Alt  245  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1219  (1910),  1410  (1915). 
Columbia  Co.  Mfg.  upholsterers'  gimp,  paper,  and  knit  goods. 

The  route  continues  north,  with  the  Taconic  range  to  the  east. 

66.0     SCHODACK  CENTER. 

The  road  follows  Route  13  to  Rensselaer  and 

74.0     ALBANY  (R.  13). 


R.  5.     NEW    YORK  to  the  BERKSHIRES, 

VERMONT,  and  MONTREAL          412.0  m. 

Via  PAWLING,  SALISBURY,  PITTSFIELD,  and  BENNINGTON. 

This  most  direct  route  from  New  York  to  the  Berkshires 
and  Vermont  affords  also  an  interesting  entrance  to  New 
England.  It  is  a  route  much  used  by  tourists  from  Pennsyl- 
vania and  the  South  who  wish  to  avoid  New  York  City.  They 
may  cross  the  Hudson  from  Nyack  to  Tarry  town,  joining  the 
route  at  Eastview  (p  227),  or,  crossing  at  Newburgh,  may 
join  the  route  further  north  at  Pawling  (p  230),  or,  crossing  at 
Poughkeepsie,  join  it  at  Amenia  (p  231).  From  Canaan  one 
may  turn  eastward  to  Hartford,  Route  8,  or  from  Lenox 
through  the  western  Berkshires  to  Springfield,  Route  13,  or 
from  North  Adams  via  the  Mohawk  Trail  to  Greenfield  and 
Boston  and  the  New  England  Coast,  Route  15. 

This  popular  inland  route  follows  in  general  the  course  of 
the  Harlem  valley  northward  through  the  Westchester  hills 
and  the  southern  spurs  of  the  Taconic  range.  Entering  Con- 
necticut, the  Litchfield  hills  become  mountains,  rising  to  an 
altitude  of  over  2000  feet.  Thence  the  course  is  through  the 
heart  of  the  Berkshires  and  the  Green  Mountain  region  past 
historic  Bennington  and  Manchester,  the  mecca  of  summer 
auto  tourists,  down  the  valley  of  Otter  Creek  to  Burlington. 
From  there  the  route  leads  across  the  islands  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  joining  the  King  Edward  Highway  to  Montreal. 

The  route  follows  State  Highways  throughout  its  course. 
In  New  York  this  is  generally  macadam,  with  the  white  fences 
characteristic  of  State  Highways  and  frequent  sign  posts 
erected  by  the  Highway  Commission  making  the  route  clear. 
From  the  Connecticut  boundary,  excepting  the  short  section 
Salisbury-Canaan,  yellow  bands,  the  route  throughout  to  the 
northern  boundary  of  Massachusetts  follows  State  Highway, 
marked  with  blue  bands  on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts. 


R.  5  §  1.     New  York  City  to  Pittsfield,  Mass.  145.5  m. 

Via   ELMSFORD,   KATONAH,    BREWSTER,    PAWLING,   AMENIA, 

SALISBURY,  GREAT  BARRINGTON,  and  STOCKBRIDGE. 
The  route  leads  northward  through  the  pleasant  hills  of 
Westchester  and  Kensico,  a  region  undergoing  great  topo- 
graphical change  owing  to  the  tremendous  excavations  that 
are  being  made  for  great  reservoirs  which  in  conjunction  with 
the  Catskill  Reservoir  system  are  to  furnish  New  York  with  a 
greatly  increased  water  supply.  Thence  it  follows  the  so- 
called  Harlem  valley,  through  which  runs  the  Harlem  division 

(234) 


R.   5  §    I.     NEW   YORK   CITY  TO   PITTSFIELD,  MASS.          235 

of  the  New  Haven  railroad,  but  which  in  truth  is  drained  by 
various  streams, — some  flowing  into  the  Housatonic  and  some 
into  the  Hudson.  The  Croton  valley  with  its  numerous 
reservoirs  and  lakelets  has  become  in  the  last  decade  a  region 
of  gentlemen's  country  estates.  The  Harlem  valley  is  fol- 
lowed to  Dover  Plains  and  thence  the  route  continues  through 
the  southern  spurs  of  the  Taconic  range  to  Amenia  and  across 
the  Connecticut  State  line  to  the  beautiful  old  town  of  Sharon. 

The  route  leaves  the  Plaza,  59th  St.  and  Fifth  Ave.,  passing 
through  Central  Park,  left  of  the  Mall,  to  Webster's  statue; 
thence  by  Seventh  Ave.  to  i45th  St.  There  turn  right,  crossing 
Harlem  River  by  Central  Bridge,  and  then  turn  sharp  left  into 
Mott  Ave.  (5.0).  Leaving  the  General  Franz  Sigel  statue 
on  the  left  follow  Grand  Boulevard  and  Concourse.  Straight 
ahead  is  Route  3  (p  203),  an  alternative  to  Hart's  Corners 
(21.2).  We  turn  right  (9.5)  into  Pelham  Ave.  In  Poe  Park 
on  the  left  of  the  Concourse  is  the  home  of  the  poet;  further 
to  the  left  is  St.  John's  College,  R.C.  The  route  now  crosses 
Bronx  Park  between  the  Zoological  Gardens  on  the  right  and 
the  Botanical  Gardens  on  the  left.  At  the  forks  on  the  further 
side  (10.5)  turn  left  on  White  Plains  Road  through  the 
suburban  villages  of  Mt.  Vernon,  Bronxville,  Tuckahoe,  and 
Crest  wood,  paralleling  the  Bronx  Parkway.  See  map  (p  221). 

The  Bronx  Parkway  was  first  conceived  about  1895  as  a  piece  of 
sanitary  reclamation  to  free  the  Bronx  river  from  pollution;  more 
recently  the  value  of  extended  park  systems  has  been  recognized. 
Thanks  to  public-spirited  land  owners  and  far-sighted  real  estate  com- 
panies, the  greater  part  of  the  road  bordering  the  Bronx  from  the 
Botanical  Gardens  to  Valhalla  on  the  new  Kensico  Reservoir,  a  distance 
of  fifteen  and  one  half  miles,  has  been  obtained  at  an  unusually  low 
expense.  A  great  proportion  has  been  parked;  tracts  have  been  set 
apart  for  athletic  fields  and  playgrounds,  and  disfiguring  features  have 
been  almost  wholly  eradicated.  When  the  new  roadway  is  completed 
in  iQi8  this  will  undoubtedly  become  New  York's  chief  northern 
artery  of  travel.  The  total  cost,  running  into  several  millions,  will  be 
almost  trivial  as  compared  with  the  benefit  to  the  public. 

19.0  SCARSDALE.  Alt  200  ft.  Pop  2717  (1915).  Westchester  Co. 
This  is  a  growing  residential  district,  named  for  a  town  in 
Derbyshire,  England.  The  Wayside  Inn,  used  before  the 
Revolution,  stands  beside  the  road  and  is  now  a  tea  house.  It 
was  patronized  by  early  drovers  from  the  'far  West,'  meaning 
Ohio,  on  their  way  into  New  York,  and  was  a  stopping  place 
for  the  mail  coach,  being  on  the  post  road.  The  visitor  of 
today  is  shown  saber  marks  on  the  door,  said  to  have  been 
made  during  a  siege  by  the  British,  when  all  was  destroyed 
save  the  Bible  and  the  cow,  which  the  owner  had  hidden  down 
cellar,  they  being  his  most  valuable  property.  Near  this 
building  stands  one  of  the  original  milestones  of  the  old  post 


236  SCARSDALE— PLEASANTVILLE 

road,  protected  from  the  elements  by  a  screening  boulder. 
The  inscription  is  almost  erased  by  time,  but  the  date  "  1771 " 
is  partially  visible. 

Among  the  original  settlers  of  this  town  were  the  Heathcote  and 
Tompkins  families.  The  former  gave  it  the  name  of  their  old  English 
home,  meaning  "a  dale  enclosed  with  rocks,"  "scarrs"  being  "crags." 
To  the  latter  belonged  Daniel  D.  Tompkins,  who  became  Vice  President 
of  the  United  States,  and  Judge  Caleb  Tompkins,  a  famous  patriot  of 
the  Revolution,  who  was  driven  from  his  home  by  the  British,  but 
preserved  his  life  by  wading  into  a  swamp  and  staying  there  up  to  his 
ears  until  the  pursuers  passed  by.  Fenimore  Cooper  once  had  a 
chateau  here. 

At  Hartsdale  (21.0)  the  route  turns  left  on  Fenimore  Road, 
crossing  the  Bronx  Parkway  near  the  Italian  Sunken  Gardens 
and  the  Tennis  Club,  and  continues  westward  along  Hartsdale 
Road  through  Hartsdale  Corners. 

24.2   ELMSFORD.  Alt  173  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1380  (1915).   Westchester  Co. 

This  village,  where  the  valley  of  Sawmill  River  broadens 
among  the  hills,  is  rapidly  becoming  one  of  suburban  homes. 

Here  lives  Col.  J.  C.  L.  Hamilton,  the  great-grandson  of 
Alexander  Hamilton  on  one  side  and  of  Cornelius  van  Tassel 
on  the  other,  himself  a  veteran  of  the  Civil  War.  His  house 
contains  a  large  collection  of  valuable  historic  relics,  among 
them  such  articles  as  letters  and  documents  of  Revolutionary 
officers,  ancient  firearms,  the  andirons  which  stood  in  the 
gigantic  fireplace  of  the  old  Van  Tassel  home,  furniture  of  both 
old  families,  and  the  pewter  basin  which,  according  to  tradi- 
tion, served  Andre  on  the  day  of  his  capture  for  a  bowl  of 
bread  and  milk.  In  the  yard  of  the  old  Dutch  church  stands 
a  monument  to  Isaac  Van  Wart,  one  of  the  captors  of  Andre. 
The  inscription  states  that  in  September,  1780, 
"Isaac  van  Wart  accompanied  by  John  Paulding  and  David  Will- 
iams, all  farmers  in  the  county,  intercepted  Major  Andre  on  his  return 
from  the  American  lines  in  the  character  of  a  spy,  and,  notwithstand- 
ing the  large  bribes  offered  them  for  his  release,  nobly  disdaining  to 
sacrifice  their  country  for  gold,  secured  and  carried  him  to  the  com- 
mander of  the  district,  whereby  the  dangerous  and  traitorous  con- 
spiracy of  Arnold  was  brought  to  light,  the  insidious  designs  of  the 
enemy  baffled,  the  American  army  saved,  and  our  beloved  country, 
now  free  and  independent,  rescued  from  most  imminent  peril." 

A  mile  south  of  the  village  is  the  home  of  Cornelius  Van 
Tassel,  whose  original  house  was  burned  by  the  British  at  the 
time  he  was  carried  off  a  prisoner  to  the  old  Sugar  House  in 
New  York.  In  a  house  now  known  by  the  name  of  Feather- 
stone,  Washington  and  Rochambeau  held  conferences  during 
important  maneuvers.  At  the  Four  Corners  occurred  many 
of  the  scenes  in  Cooper's  "Spy,"  and  here  stood  Betty  Flan- 
nigan's  Tavern,  where  the  soldiers  refreshed  themselves. 

The   route   continues   north,   avoiding   crossing   R.R.,   and 


R.   5   §   I.     NEW   YORK  CITY  TO  PITTSFIELD,  MASS.  237 

follows  the  hills  above  the  valley  of  Sawmill  River  to  Eastview 
(26.5),  where  we  pass  the  beautiful  Butler  estate  and  cross  the 
Croton  Aqueduct  and  turn  right  on  the  road  from  Tarrytown, 
continuing  along  the  valley  of  the  Sawmill  river  to  Neperhan 
(29.0).  This  is  a  region  of  bungalows  recently  taken  up  for 
real  estate  exploitation.  The  first  purchaser,  Adriaen  van  der 
Donck,  in  1639,  vainly  tried  to  Hollandize  the  Indian  name 
into  "Nepperheim." 

32.0     PLEASANTVILLE.     Alt  300  ft.    Pop  (twp)  2464  (1915). 

This  is  an  old  settled  community  in  the  midst  of  pleasant 
country.  It  was  the  'Clark's  Corners'  of  early  days,  when 
Henry  Clark  and  his  wife  Rachel  conveyed  by  deed  to  the 
trustees  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  the  land  for  its 
use.  Here  the  new  reservoir  system  can  be  clearly  traced  as 
it  travels  over  miles  of  hill  and  valley. 

The  route  leads  over  the  hills  above  the  Sawmill  river 
valley  and  through  the  outskirts  of  Chappaqua  (33.5).  The 
village  lies  chiefly  about  the  station  in  the  valley  below  to  the 
left.  It  is  on  the  divide  separating  the  waters  of  Sawmill 
River  and  those  of  the  Croton  valley.  To  the  north  is  Chap- 
paqua Mountain  (739  ft).  Russet  apples,  and  cucumbers  for 
pickles,  long  ago  made  Chappaqua  famous  as  a  farming  local- 
ity. Near  the  station  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Mr.  Greeley, 
erected  through  the  efforts  of  the  Chappaqua  Historical 
Society,  and  on  the  State  Road,  north  of  the  station,  is  the 
Old  Quaker  Meeting  House  (1764)  used  as  a  hospital  after  the 
battle  of  White  Plains. 

In  1851  Horace  Greeley,  while  editor  of  the  "Tribune,"  bought  a 
tract  of  seventy-five  acres,  on  the  western  edge  of  which  stands  the 
present  railroad  station.  To  this  retreat,  Greeley  said,  he  would 
"steal  from  the  city's  labors  and  anxieties,  at  least  one  day  in  each 
week,  to  revive  as  a  farmer  the  memories  of  my  childhood's  humble 
home."  He  drained  a  swamp,  turned  it  into  a  model  farm,  and  made 
it  famous  as  "Greeley  Swamp,"  celebrating  it  in  his  famous  book, 
"What  I  Know  About  Farming."  On  election  day  he  would  travel 
several  miles  to  the  nearest  polling  place  and  there  gather  a  crowd  of 
country  people  around  him  from  far  and  near,  while  he  gave  impromptu 
orations  on  live  topics.  At  his  farm  he  received  the  crushing  news  of 
his  defeat  by  Grant  in  the  Presidential  election  of  1872.  From  this 
disappointment  Greeley  never  recovered,  and  he  died  at  the  home  of 
his  friend,  Dr.  Choate,  near  his  farm,  on  Nov.  2g,  1872.  The  Greeley 
Homestead,  like  the  Jay  Homestead,  near  Katonah,  was  a  well- 
known  station  on  the  'Underground  Railway,'  by  which  many 
hundreds  of  runaway  slaves  journeyed  from  bondage  in  the  South  to 
freedom  in  Canada.  The  house  was  burned  several  years  ago,  but 
was  converted  into  a  residence  and  is  now  the  summer  home  of  Mr. 
Greeley's  daughter. 

The  road  leads  on  through  the  hamlet  of  Newcastle  (37.3). 
This  vicinity  was  an  old  Quaker  headquarters,  and  the  Friends 
rode  horseback  or  traveled  in  droll,  oldfashioned  vehicles 


238  PLEASANTVILLE— PAWLING 

from  the  farms  around  to  hold  First-Day  service  in  the  three 
meeting  houses  erected  near  by.  During  the  Revolution  New- 
castle was  included  in  the  "Neutral  Ground"  and  was  plun- 
dered and  harassed.  Washington  crossed  through  Newcastle 
Corners  and  Mt.  Kisco  on  his  way  from  the  battle  of  White 
Plains.  The  Indian  chief  Wampus  had  his  wigwam  near 
here,  and  the  deed  by  which  he  and  his  associates  conveyed 
the  land  to  Colonel  Caleb  Heathcote  granted  him  the  "tene- 
ments, gardens,  orchards,  arable  lands,  pastures,  feedings, 
woods,  underwoods,  meadows,  marshes,  lakes,  ponds,  rivers, 
rivulets,  mines,  minerals  (royal  mines  only  excepted),  fishing, 
fowling,  hunting,  and  hawking  rights,"  from  which  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  country  is  extremely  rich  by  nature. 

38.0    MT.  KISCO.    Alt  280ft.    Pop  (twp)  2802  (1910),  2902  (1915). 

Westchester  Co. 

The  village  spreads  through  the  valley  up  on  the  surround- 
ing hills.  The  height  above,  adjacent  to  Kisco  Mountain 
(620  ft),  is  a  region  of  attractive  homes.  There  are  a  number  of 
pretty  lakes  in  the  vicinity.  The  route  follows  parallel  with 
the  R.R.  past  Bedford  Hills  Station  (40.5).  In  the  hills  about 
here  there  are  many  farms  which  have  been  made  into  beauti- 
ful residential  estates.  The  Bedford  School  for  Boys  is  located 
here.  Many  Indian  relics  have  been  found  hereabout. 

43.0  KATONAH.  Alt  300  ft.  Pop  950.  Westchester  Co.  Named 
for  an  Indian  chief. 

The  village  lies  in  the  valley  of  Cross  River  near  where  it 
joins  the  Croton.  The  construction  of  the  new  Croton  Reser- 
voir occasioned  the  rebuilding  of  the  village  in  an  attractive 
situation  one  mile  south  of  the  old  site.  The  country  about 
here  and  eastward  to  Ridgefield,  Conn.,  seven  miles  distant,  is 
one  of  the  country  estates  of  New  York  residents. 

Two  miles  east  of  Katonah  is  the  Jay  Homestead,  residence 
of  John  Jay,  first  Chief  Justice  of  the  United  States  Supreme 
Court.  The  estate  has  been  owned  by  the  Jay  family  since 
1743,  when  Mary,  wife  of  Peter  Jay  and  mother  of  the  Chief 
Justice,  inherited  it  from  her  father,  Colonel  Jacobus  van 
Cortlandt.  The  Chief  Justice  built  the  greater  part  of  the 
present  house,  made  it  his  permanent  home  in  1801  after  he 
had  served  two  terms  as  Governor  of  New  York,  and  lived  here 
in  retirement  until  his  death  in  1829.  The  noble  elms  and 
maples  along  the  nearby  roads  were  set  out  by  him.  Like 
Horace  Greeley's  farm,  near  Chappaqua,  the  Jay  Homestead 
was  a  'station'  on  the  'Underground  Railway'  by  which 
fugitive  slaves  made  their  way  to  Canada. 

From  Katonah  turn  right  across  the  R.R.,  and  at  fork  bear 
left.  Goldens  Bridge  (45.8)  is  a  crossroads  hamlet  in  a 


R.   5  §   i.     NEW  YORK  CITY  TO  PTTTSFIELD,  MASS.  239 

dairying  region  on  the  crest  of  the  ridge  overlooking  the  Croton 
valley.  The  valleys  are  everywhere  occupied  by  reservoirs  of 
the  Croton  system,  and  the  region  is  owned  and  maintained 
by  the  city  of  New  York. 

From  the  Four  Corners  turn  left  across  R.R.  and  long  iron 
bridge  over  the  Croton  river.  Bearing  right  along  the  mac- 
adam road  the  route  leads  to 

48.5     SOMERS.     Alt  300  ft.     Westchester  Co.    Settled  1736. 

Somers  has  long  been  the  winter  home  of  circus  performers. 
The  curious  Elephant  Monument  at  the  fork  commemorates 
'Old  Bet,'  said  to  have  been  the  first  member  of  her  tribe  to 
be  brought  to  this  land,  and  imported  in  1815  by  Hachaliah 
Bailey,  a  resident  of  Somers,  credited  with  being  the  originator 
of  the  traveling  menagerie  in  this  country.  For  years  Bet 
was  'the  whole  show'  that  Bailey  had  to  offer,  and  never  failed 
to  "amaze  the  gazing  rustics  ranged  around."  Bailey  was 
also  a  popular  Boniface  in  his  day,  and  kept  the  Elephant 
Hotel,  which  stood  opposite  the  monument. 

Somers  was  part  of  the  old  Cortlandt  Manor.  First  called  Stephen 
Town,  it  was  changed  in  1808  in  honor  of  Captain  Richard  Somers  of 
Tripolitan  War  fame.  One  of  the  early  inhabitants  was  John  Hemp- 
stead,  who,  according  to  his  tombstone  in  the  Somers  Plain  burying 
ground,  lived  to  the  good  old  age  of  107  years,  5  months,  and  21  days. 

Keeping  to  the  left  of  the  monument,  at  the  watering 
trough  one  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  take  left  fork.  Two  miles 
beyond  turn  right  and  bear  left  along  the  Croton  valley  into 

54.5    BREWSTER.    Alt  420  ft.    Pop  1296  (1910),  1402  (1915).    Put- 
nam Co.    Mfg.  condensed  milk;   R.R.  repair  shops. 

Brewster  lies  in  the  midst  of  attractive  lakes  and  reservoirs 
among  the  hills,  and  is  famous  for  its  fishing. 

The  iron  mines  in  the  vicinity  were  formerly  of  some  importance. 
Mining  in  a  small  way  was  carried  on  as  early  as  1806.  The  Tilly 
Foster  mine  has  a  special  interest.  In  1830  one  Tilly  Foster  bought  a 
tract  of  iron  deposits,  but  not  until  1853,  eleven  years  after  his  death, 
was  it  developed.  In  1870  a  cave-in  killed  six  men,  and  in  1805 
thirteen  similarly  lost  their  lives,  whereupon  the  State  forbade  further 
operation.  It  is  now  owned  by  the  Lackawanna  Steel  Company. 

The  new  macadam  State  Road  from  Brewster  to  Pawling 
and  northward  is  almost  unmistakably  identified  by  white 
rail  fences  and  frequent  signs.  From  Brewster  R.R.  station 
turn  right,  and  three  quarters  of  a  mile  beyond  cross  bridge 
and  turn  left.  At  watering  trough  at  fork  bear  left  along 
winding  macadam  road  with  heavy  grades  into 

67.5     PAWLING.     Alt  450  ft.     Pop   (twp)  848   (1910),  1050  (1915). 
Dutchess  Co. 

Pawling  is  a  pleasant  village  among  the  hills  and  charming 
lakes  of  Dutchess  Co.  On  the  west  is  Mt.  Tom  (1000  ft),  and 


240  PAWLING— SHARON 

on  the  east,  Purgatory  Hill  (900  ft).  On  Mizzentop  (1300  ft), 
east  of  Purgatory  Hill,  is  the  Mizzentop  Hotel,  commanding 
an  extended  view.  At  the  entrance  to  the  village  and  opposite 
the  golf  grounds  stands  a  tree  which  marks  the  site  of  Wash- 
ington's headquarters  from  Sept.  12  to  Nov.  27,  1778.  During 
this  period  a  wing  of  the  Continental  Army  encamped  on 
Quaker  Hill,  three  miles  to  the  east.  On  Quaker  Hill,  formerly 
called  the  'Oblong  Meeting,'  by  the  Quakers,  is  the  old  Quaker 
Meeting  House  which  was  used  as  a  military  hospital  during 
the  Revolution.  The  house  occupied  by  Washington  and 
Lafayette  remains  here,  but  slightly  altered.  To  the  right, 
leaving  the  village,  are  the  handsome  buildings  of  the  Pawling 
School  for  Boys. 

The  route  follows  northward  through  the  valley  of  Swamp 
River.  Just  before  reaching  Wingdale  we  pass  the  site  of  the 
proposed  State  Prison,  which  changes  of  administration  and 
policy  have  left  unbuilt. 

On  the  corner  at  the  right  in  Wingdale  (74.0)  is  the  brick 
Colonial  homestead  of  the  Wing  family,  which  sheltered  Wash- 
ington on  one  occasion.  Near  the  station,  half  a  mile  to  the 
left,  are  marble  working  shops,  the  stone  for  which  is  quarried 
in  the  hills  about  three  miles  to  the  northeast.  These  quarries 
in  the  past  ten  years  have  furnished  the  beautiful  white  marble 
for  the  Tiffany  Building,  the  U.S.  Treasury,  and  the  Stock 
Exchange  in  New  York  City,  and  for  the  Senate  Building  in 
Washington.  From  the  west  enters  Route  4n  (p  230). 

The  route  climbs  a  hill,  continuing  straight  northward  along 
the  valley  of  Ten  Mile  River.  The  road  to  the  right  with 
trolley  leads  to  Webotuck,  and  beyond  to  the  valley  of  the 
Housatonic.  At  South  Dover  (75.0),  in  the  hills  to  the  left  is 
Dover  Furnace,  where  iron  was  smelted  in  Colonial  times  and 
up  to  forty  years  ago. 

81.5     DOVER  PLAINS.    Alt  400  ft.    Pop  (twp)  800.     Dutchess  Co. 

The  village  at  the  end  of  the  Harlem  division  has  a  consid- 
erable population  of  railway  men.  On  the  corner  at  the  right 
of  Main  St.  is  a  century-old  building,  now  a  tea  house. 

To  the  west  is  Chestnut  Ridge  (1200  ft),  part  of  the  water- 
shed between  the  Hudson  and  the  Housatonic  rivers.  About 
a  mile  southwest  of  the  village  a  stream  flowing  down  from  the 
western  hills  in  a  succession  of  cascades  has  worn  at  the 
falls  by  the  action  of  revolving  stones  smooth  round  holes  in 
the  limestone  rock,  called  The  Wells.  Higher  up  in  a 
wooded  gorge  is  The  Old  Stone  Church,  an  extensive 
cavern  in  the  form  of  a  Gothic  arch  with  a  span  of  about 
25  feet.  "The  massive,  sombre  archway  of  the  cave,  the 
pulpit  rock,  the  walls  almost  perfectly  arched,  covered  with 


R.    5   §   I.     NEW  YORK   CITY  TO  PITTSFIELD,   MASS.          241 

green  moss  and  white  lichen,  the  sound  of  falling  water,  all 
contribute  to  make  it  a  church  of  Nature's  own  fashioning, — a 
little  cathedral  not  made  with  hands." 

A  mile  beyond  Dover  Plains  the  road  to  the  left  leads  over 
Plymouth  Hill  to  Millbrook  and  Poughkeepsie.  The  main 
route,  straight  ahead,  follows  the  valley  of  Ten  Mile  River 
and  forks  left  with  the  R.R.  through  a  narrow  gorge  worn  by 
Wassaic  Creek,  the  hills  rising  on  either  side  to  1300  feet.  The 
village  of  Wassaic  (87.3),  whose  Indian  name  means  "difficult," 
or  "hard  working,"  lies  at  the  entrance  of  the  narrow  valley 
to  the  left,  called  Turkey  Hollow.  Here  is  one  of  the  earliest 
established  of  Borden's  Condensed  Milk  factories. 

90.5    AMENIA.    Alt  573  ft.    Pop  300.    Dutchess  Co. 

The  name  of  this  village  was  devised  from  the  Latin  word 
meaning  "pleasant,"  by  the  same  early  scholar  who  also  gave 
Vermont  its  Latin  name.  The  iron  ores  of  the  region  were 
still  smelted  here  in  a  single  furnace  up  to  a  few  years  ago.  The 
old  Academy  in  Amenia  was  famous  in  its  time,  as  was  its 
autumnal  agricultural  fair.  Route  4n  (p  231)  enters  here. 

Bearing  right  across  the  R.R.  (92.7),  past  Sharon  Station, 
a  mile  beyond  the  route  crosses  the  boundary  line  of  Con- 
necticut, marked  by  a  stone  post.  From  this  point  on  the 
route  is  clearly  marked  by  the  Connecticut  Highway  Commis- 
sion with  blue  bands  on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts. 

Note.  An  alternate  route  to  Lakeville  follows  the  R.R. 
north  to  Millerton  (99.5),  thence  eastward  with  the  Central 
N.  E.  R.R.  to  Lakeville  (103.5). 

95.4  SHARON.  Alt  780  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1880.  Litchfield  Co.,  Conn. 
Settled  1732.  Indian  name  Poconnuck. 

This  is  a  village  of  rural  loveliness  which  attracts  many 
summer  boarders.  The  'Street,'  200  feet  wide  and  two  miles 
long,  is  bordered  by  grand  old  elms  forming  a  natural  arbor. 
The  Soldiers'  Monument  with  a  stone  cannon,  and  a  stone 
clock  tower  are  the  modern  features  of  the  village.  The  Gov- 
ernor John  Cotton  Smith  House,  a  fine  specimen  of  Georgian 
architecture,  is  still  perfectly  preserved.  The  fine  old  George 
King  brick  house  (1800)  is  at  the  head  of  the  street.  The 
C.  C.  Tiffany  house  (1757)  is  perhaps  the  oldest  in  the  town. 
The  old  Pardee  brick  house  (1782)  stands  by  the  Stone 
Bridge.  The  Prindle  house  is  a  spacious  gambrel-roof  dwelling 
on  Gay  St.  near  the  charming  lakelet  which  furnishes  a  natural 
reservoir  for  the  village  water  supply.  The  picturesque  old 
Gay  House  has  the  builder's  initials  "M.  G.  1765"  on  a  stone 
in  the  gable. 

In  the  early  days  Sharon  was  a  place  of  busy  and  varied  industries. 
Iron  was  manufactured  here  as  early  as  1743,  and  continued  an  im- 


242  SHARON— SALISBURY 

portant  industry  up  to  fifty  years  ago.  During  the  Civil  War  muni- 
tions were  made  here,  and  it  was  then  in  the  shops  of  the  Hotchkiss 
Company  in  this  village  that  the  Hotchkiss  explosive  shell  for  rifled 
guns  was  invented,  which  led  to  the  expansion  of  the  company  and  its 
removal  to  Bridgeport. 

To  the  north  of  the  village  is  Mudge  Pond,  or  Crystal  Lake, 
and  beyond,  Indian  Mountain  (1200  ft).  At  the  western  foot 
of  the  mountain,  on  the  State  line,  lies  Indian  Pond,  now  called 
Wequagnock  Lake.  On  the  edge  of  this  lake  was  an  Indian 
village  where  the  Moravians  early  established  a  mission  that 
did  great  work  among  the  Indians.  To  the  Moravians  it 
was  known  as  "Gnadensee,"  the  Lake  of  Grace. 

From  Sharon  the  route  runs  northward  past  Lake  Wononpa- 
kook  and  Lake  Wononskopomuc,  the  latter  an  Indian  word 
meaning  "sparkling  water."  Between  the  lakes,  as  the  road 
forks  right,  is  situated  the  widely  known  Hotchkiss  School,  for 
boys,  an  important  feeder  to  Yale.  On  the  right,  half  a  mile 
from  Lakeville,  is  the  residence  of  Hon.  Wm.  Travers  Jerome, 
formerly  District  Attorney  of  New  York  City. 

101 .5     LAKEVILLE.     Alt  800  ft.     Pop  1050.     Litchfield  Co. 

Lakeville  is  beautifully  situated,  with  mountains  rising  all 
about  it  to  more  than  2000  feet.  There  are  some  fine  old 
Colonial  residences  in  and  about  the  village.  The  mansion 
with  Ionic  portico  was  built  in  1808  by  John  Milton  Holley. 
Holleywood,  the  residence  of  Governor  Holley,  was  built  in 
1852.  Cloverly,  built  by  General  Elisha  Sterling  before  1800, 
is  now  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Fiske  Arons.  The  residence  of 
William  B.  Perry  was  built  in  1795  for  the  village  tavern,  by 
Peter  Farnam,  and  has  recently  been  restored  as  the  Farnam 
Tavern.  Many  modern  summer  cottages  overlook  the  lake. 
Route  4n  enters  from  the  west  (p  232). 

The  early  prosperity  of  Lakeville  was  due  to  the  iron  ore  in  this 
vicinity,  which  was  first  mined  in  1734.  Ore  Hill,  just  to  the  west  of 
Lake  Wononskopomuc,  and  Red  Mountain  and  Mine  Mountain  to 
the  south,  all  indicate  by  their  names  the  presence  of  mineral  ores. 
The  brown  hematite,  or  limonite,  ore  occurs  in  the  so-called  Stockbridge 
limestone  which  underlies  Salisbury.  This  is  of  lower  Ordovician  age, 
and  has  a  thickness  of  500  feet,  overlying  the  Berkshire  Hudson  schist 
which  forms  the  mass  of  Bear  Mountain,  Salisbury.  Smelted  with 
charcoal  it  furnishes  a  very  pure  iron,  much  valued  for  its  toughness. 
Most  of  the  mining  today  is  done  at  Ore  Hill  and  the  product  smelted 
at  Lime  Rock,  chiefly  by  the  Barnum  &  Richardson  Company,  who 
produce  a  high  grade  charcoal  iron,  the  demand  for  which  is  greatly 
in  excess  of  the  supply. 

Ethan  Allen  lived  here  in  his  youth  and  later  was  interested  in  the 
iron  works,  as  was  also  Robert  Livingston,  who  purchased  the  Jabez 
Swift  house  of  1773  on  Old  Town  Hill,  occupied  for  a  time  by  the  wife 
of  General  Montgomery.  Cornelius  Knickerbocker  and  other  Dutch- 
men from  New  York  also  made  their  homes  here. 

From  Lakeville  the  route  continues  northward,  keeping  to 


R.   5   §    I.     NEW  YORK  CITY  TO  PITTSFIELD,    MASS.          243 

the  left  of  the  railway  underpass.  As  from  the  beginning  of 
the  Connecticut  line,  the  route  as  far  as  Salisbury  is  marked 
by  blue  bands  on  the  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts. 

103.5  SALISBURY.  Alt  685  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3522.  Litchfield  Co. 
Settled  1720.  Indian  name  Weatogue.  Mfg.  iron,  car 
wheels,  and  knife  handles. 

On  the  shady  main  street  of  the  village  are  some  fine  old 
houses.  The  John  Churchill  Cofnng  homestead  is  now  the 
residence  of  Hon.  Donald  T.  Warner.  The  old  Bushnell 
Tavern  stands  in  striking  contrast  to  the  Scoville  Memorial 
Library,  an  attractive  building  of  gray  granite  with  a  square 
tower.  The  old  Stiles  House  of  1772  still  stands  on  Salisbury 
St.  At  the  northern  end  of  the  village  is  the  Thomas  Ball 
homestead  of  1745,  near  Ball  Brook.  The  Salisbury  School 
for  boys  is  located  on  a  hilltop  overlooking  the  town. 

To  the  east  of  Salisbury  lies  Mt.  Prospect  (1475  ft).  To  the 
west  is  the  great  mountain  mass  of  Mt.  Riga,  culminating  in 
Bear  Mountain  (2355  ft),  the  highest  point  in  Connecticut, 
in  the  extreme  northwest  corner  of  the  State.  On  its  summit 
is  a  monument  with  a  gilded  globe,  erected  by  Robbins  Battell 
of  Norfolk.  Several  roads  lead  up  Mt.  Riga,  where  formerly 
the  iron  mines  were  extensively  worked,  and  where  there  were 
furnaces  for  smelting  the  ore.  The  road  from  Salisbury  to 
the  old  furnace  winds  for  four  miles  along  a  tumbling  brook. 
Its  Indian  name  was  Wachocastinook,  but  it  also  bears 
the  Dutch  name  of  Fellkill.  Near  the  old  furnace  is  the 
Pettee  homestead,  built  by  one  of  the  old  iron  masters  of  a 
century  ago.  From  Salisbury  a  road  leads  down  the  valley 
of  the  Salmon  Creek  to  Lime  Rock,  where  are  the  iron  smelt- 
ing works.  A  mile  above  are  the  falls  of  the  Housatonic, 
sometimes  called  Canaan  Falls,  which  have  a  drop  of  about 
60  feet. 

The  township  of  Salisbury,  the  most  northwesterly  and  the  highest 
in  Connecticut,  was  settled  by  Dutchmen  from  Livingston  manor. 
It  was  in  1720  that,  attracted  by  the  deposits  of  iron  thus  early  dis- 
covered, they  bought  a  tract  of  land  bordering  the  Housatonic,  called 
Weatogue,  "the  wigwam  place."  This  lay  on  the  Irtdian  trail  which 
ran  from  the  Stockbridge  wigwams  to  those  of  the  Schaghticokes,  below  the 
village  of  Kent.  The  English  Puritans  from  Windsor  followed  a  year  later, 
likewise  attracted  by  the  ore  deposits. 

The  first  furnace  and  forge  was  erected  in  1734,  and  in  1762  another 
extensive  plant  was  organized  by  Ethan  Allen.  There  was  relatively 
as  great  excitement  on  the  Connecticut  border  over  Ore  Hill  and  Mt. 
Riga  as  over  the  California  gold  fields  in  '49.  Skilled  workmen  from 
Russia  and  Switzerland  were  imported  to  smelt  the  ores,  and  it  still 
remains  an  open  question  as  to  whether  the  mountain  was  named  from 
Mt.  Rigi  in  Switzerland  or  from  Riga  whence  the  Russians  came  in 
1781  to  work  at  Balls  Forge.  These  foreigners  have  left  some  in- 
teresting place  names  round  about  here.  Barack  Matiff  is  the  name 
applied  to  a  mountain  near  Salisbury  under  the  shadow  of  which 


244  SALISBURY— CANAAN 

Alexander  Hamilton  studied  civil  engineering  at  the  home  of  Samuel 
Moore,  an  eminent  mathematician  of  the  time. 

Copper,  too,  was  mined  in  Salisbury  in  Revolutionary  times,  and  the 
first  copper  cents  were  coined  here.  At  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolu- 
tion the  iron  works  of  Salisbury  were  taken  over  by  the  Government. 
Here  were  cast  the  cannon  for  the  frigate  "Constitution,"  also  shot, 
shell,  anchors,  and  other  war  materials  as  well  as  the  iron  from  which 
was  made  the  chain  stretched  across  the  Hudson  at  West,  Point  to 
bar  the  British  fleet.  General  Knox  was  for  a  time  in  charge  here  of 
casting  cannon  for  the  Continental  Army.  Just  after  the  Revolution 
these  ore  beds  were  thought  to  be  the  most  important  in  the  country, 
and  Salisbury  looked  forward  to  becoming  the  'Birmingham  of 
America.'  After  1800,  however,  Pennsylvania  came  to  the  front  and 
the  Connecticut  production  rapidly  dwindled  in  significance. 

THE  HOUSA TONIC  VALLEY  both  above  and  below  Canaan 
clearly  shows  the  different  effects  of  the  same  stream  working 
on  softer  and  harder  rock.  "The  upper  valley,  generally  called 
the  Berkshire  valley,  is  broadly  open  along  a  belt  of  weak 
limestones  which  have  wasted  away  on  either  side  of  the  hard 
rocks  that  enclose  them  on  the  east  and  west ;  the  lower  valley 
crosses  the  upland  of  western  Connecticut,  a  region  chiefly 
composed  of  resistant  crystalline  rocks,  and  here  the  side 
slopes  are  for  the  most  part  bold  and  steep.  Indeed,  here  the 
rocks  are  so  resistant  that  the  river  has  not  yet  been  able  to 
cut  down  all  of  its  channel  to  a  smooth  and  gentle  grade.  In 
its  course  of  fifty-seven  miles  from  Falls  Village,  where  it 
leaves  the  limestone  belt,  to  Derby,  where  it  meets  tidewater, 
this  strong  stream  descends  560  feet.  It  is  on  account  of  so 
great  a  distance  over  which  the  lower  Housatonic  has  to  cut 
its  way  across  hard  rocks  that  its  upper  course,  even  on  the 
weak  rocks  of  the  Berkshire  valley,  is  still  held  almost  1000 
feet  above  sea  level. 

"The  Berkshire  valley  is  also  varied  by  a  number  of  isolated 
hills  or  mountains.  Here  they  consist  of  resistant  schists  that 
stand  above  the  limestone  floor.  Greylock  is  the  chief  of 
these;  for  its  summit  not  only  rises  above  the  Berkshire  valley, 
but  dominates  the  upland  levels  on  the  east  and  west  as  well, 
reaching  the  greatest  altitude  of  any  mountain  in  Massachu- 
setts. Smaller  and  lower  residuals  are  seen  south  of  Pitts- 
field,  where  they  contribute  largely  to  the  attraction  of  the 
picturesque  district  about  Stockbridge  and  Great  Barrington. 
Bear  Mountain,  in  the  extreme  northwestern  part  of  Con- 
necticut, the  highest  summit  in  the  State,  may  be  for  our 
purposes  likened  to  Greylock." — WM.  MORRIS  DAVIS. 

"From  Salisbury  to  Williamstown  and  thence  to  Benning- 
ton,"  wrote  Henry  Ward  Beecher,  "there  stretches  a  country 
of  valleys  and  lakes  and  mountains  that  is  to  be  as  celebrated 
as  the  English  lake  district  or  the  hill  country  of  Palestine." 
The  broad  limestone  valley  extending  northward  from  Salis- 


5  §   I-     NEW   YORK   CITY  TO  PITTSFIELD,  MASS.  245 

bury  and  Canaan,  Conn.,  to  Pittsfield  is  a  notable  topographic 
feature  and  a  distinctive  agricultural  region  with  a  rich  lime- 
stone soil.  Route  8  leads  east  to  Winsted  and  Hartford. 

Alternate  route  via  Under  Mountain  Road  to  Great  Barring- 
ton,  17.5  m. 

From  the  monument  in  the  fork,  bear  to  the  left.  The  route 
with  yellow  markers  to  the  right  leads  to  Canaan.  To  the 
left  is  the  Lion's  Head,  a  spur  of  Mt.  Riga.  To  the  east  of 
Chapinville  is  Grassland  Farms,  the  summer  estate  of  Robert 
and  Herbert  Scoville  of  New  York  City,  famous  for  its  Guern- 
seys. Near  at  hand  are  the  twin  lakes,  Panaheconnok  and. 
Hokonkamok,  or  Washining  and  Washinee,  the  "Laughing 
Water"  and  the  "Smiling  Water."  On  the  shores  are  many 
summer  camps.  North  of  the  lakes  rises  Babes  Hill,  east  is 
Miles  Mountain  and  bold  Tom's  Barack. 

To  the  west  the  summit  of  Bear  Mountain  rises  sheer  1800 
feet  above  us  at  a  lateral  distance  of  less  than  one  mile  from 
the  road.  At  the  State  boundary  one  may  turn  aside  to  the 
left  to  visit  Sage's  Ravine.  The  road  (800  ft)  runs  parallel 
with  the  summit  line  of  the  Taconic  range  at  a  sufficient  dis- 
tance to  command  a  fine  perspective.  It  passes  the  foot  of  Mt. 
Everett  (2624  ft),  the  second  highest  peak  in  Massachusetts, 
the  summit  of  which  is  less  than  two  miles  distant.  Locally 
it  is  known  as  The  Dome  and  dominates  the  country  round 
about.  There  has  here  been  created  a  State  Reservation  of 
several  hundred  acres  through  which  run  practicable  roads. 
Four  miles  to  the  west  are  the  famous  Bash  Bish  Falls,  a  cascade 
of  fascinating  beauty.  As  the  mountain  recedes  from  the  road, 
to  the  left  in  a  natural  amphitheatre  is  the  Berkshire  School 
for  Boys  (p  800).  The  road  to  the  right  leads  to  Sheffield. 

13.0     SOUTH  EGREMONT.      Alt   750  ft.     Pop    (twp)    605    (1910), 
599  (1915).    Berkshire  Co. 

One  of  the  most  serious  engagements  of  Shays'  Rebellion 
took  place  here.  Route  4n  (p  233)  enters  from  the  left. 

The  route  bears  right,  crossing  a  small  iron  bridge,  following 
signs  to  Great  Barrington.     In  a  small  park  to  the  right  is  a 
Newsboys'  Monument.     The  route  crosses  the  R.R.  into  Maple 
Ave.,  turning  into  Main  St. 
17.5     GREAT  BARRINGTON  (p  247). 

From  Salisbury  to  Canaan,  the  main  route,  a  portion  of  the 
East  and  West  Connecticut  State  Trunk  Highway  running 
through  to  Winsted  and  Hartford,  is  marked  by  yellow  bands 
on  poles  and  posts.  From  Canaan  northward,  through  the 
Berkshires  into  Vermont,  the  route  is  marked  by  blue  bands 
on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts,  except  for  the  short  stretch, 


246  CANAAN— GREAT  HARRINGTON 

Lenox  to  Pittsfield,  which  lying  on  the  east  and  west  route 
from  Albany  to  Boston  is  marked  by  red  bands. 

From  Salisbury  bear  right  at  the  monument  in  the  fork, 
crossing  R.R.,  following  the  yellow  bands  on  poles  and  posts, 
and  crossing  by  a  long  wooden  bridge  the  Housatonic  river. 

111.5  CANAAN.  Alt  694  ft,  R.R.  Pop  (twp)  702.  Litchfield  Co. 
Inc.  1739.  Named  as  the  "Promised  Land."  Mfg.  iron 
and  dairy  products;  marble  and  lime. 

Canaan  is  a  rural  village  and  summer  resort  at  the  southern 
gateway  of  the  Berkshires  in  the  valley  of  the  Blackberry 
river,  or  Bromfoxit,  surrounded  by  undulating  hills.  To  the 
south  lies  the  rugged  mass  of  Canaan  Mountain,  culminating 
in  Bradford  Mountain  (1927  ft).  The  Boy  Scouts  of  Canaan 
have  blazed  a  trail  up  the  mountain,  the  summit  of  which 
commands  a  splendid  view. 

The  first  turnpike  between  Boston  and  the  Hudson  passed 
through  Canaan.  The  Tavern  which  was  erected  in  1751  by 
Capt.  I.  Lawrence  is  still  standing.  Its  broad  stone  doorstep 
is  a  memorial  to  Isaac  Lawrence  and  his  family.  "At  Canaan, 
before  the  Tavern,"  Hawthorne  wrote  in  his  notes  in  1838, 
"there  is  a  doorstep  two  or  three  paces  large  in  each  of  its  di- 
mensions; and  on  this  is  inscribed  the  date  when  the  builder 
of  the  house  came  to  the  town, — namely,  1741.  .  .  .  Then  fol- 
lows the  age  and  death  of  the  patriarch  (at  over  90).  ...  It 
would  seem  as  if  they  were  buried  there;  and  many  people 
take  that  idea.  It  is  odd  to  put  a  family  record  on  a  spot 
where  it  is  sure  to  be  trampled  under  foot." 

On  the  Blackberry  river  stands  the  house  (1747)  of  an  iron- 
master pioneer,  Squire  Samuel  Forbes;  it  is  now  the  home  of 
Mrs.  Mary  G.  Adam.  In  the  old  Douglass  place,  south  of  the 
village,  a  company  of  Hessians  were  housed  as  prisoners  for 
some  days  on  their  way  from  New  York  to  Boston.  North- 
west of  the  town  is  the  old  Jonathan  Gillette  house. 

Note.  At  Falls  Village  in  the  township  of  Canaan,  three 
miles  south,  were  the  railroad  repair  shops,  on  the  site  of  the  old 
Ames  foundries  which  produced  some  of  the  heaviest  fortress 
cannon  during  the  Revolutionary  War.  Asaph  Hall,  astrono- 
mer, and  discoverer  of  the  moons  of  Mars,  has  a  summer 
residence  here.  The  great  Falls  of  the  Housatonic  near  the 
village  plunge  over  rocky  ledges  for  about  60  feet.  A  $ i  ,000,000 
hydro-electric  plant  here  furnishes  power  to  Hartford  and 
Bristol. 

From  Canaan,  follow  blue  markers  northward  across  R.R. 
and  over  the  broadening  intervales  of  the  Housatonic  to  Ashley 
Falls  (114.0).  Here  we  cross  the  Konkapot  river,  which 
comes  down  from  Monterey  and  the  highlands  to  the  east. 


R.   5   §   I.     NEW  YORK  CITY  TO  PITTSFIELD,   MASS.          247 

About  a  mile  or  so  south  of  the  village  center  of  Sheffield  is 
the  site  of  the  old  Sheffield  Inn  mentioned  by  Holmes  in  "The 
Autocrat  of  the  Breakfast  Table."  At  the  forks  of  the  road  as 
one  comes  to  the  village  is  an  enormous  elm  tree  around  which 
it  was  the  custom  for  many  years  to  hold  memorial  exercises. 

118.0  SHEFFIELD.  Alt  679  ft,  R.R.  Pop  1817  (1910),  1862  (1915). 
Berkshire  Co.  Inc.  1733.  Indian  name  Housatonnuc, 
"over  the  mountain." 

Sheffield  is  a  quiet  village  with  one  long  elm-shaded  main 
street.  The  Housatonic  valley  here  is  "full  of  rural  simplicity 
and  beauty,  richly  decorated  with  lovely  valley  and  majestic 
mountain  scenery."  To  the  west,  Mt.  Everett,  locally  called 
The  Dome  (2624  ft),  rises  nobly,  dominating  the  scene.  The 
pleasant  Pine  Knoll  Park  with  a  bit  of  the  primeval  pine 
forest  is  a  public  reservation. 

F.  A.  P.  Barnard,  a  former  President  of  Columbia  College, 
Rev.  Orville  Dewey,  the  wellknown  Unitarian  clergyman  and 
one  of  the  notables  of  the  Dewey  family,  and  George  Root, 
the  composer  of  "Tramp,  Tramp,  Tramp,  the  Boys  are  March- 
ing," were  natives  of  this  town. 

Formerly  much  tobacco  was  raised  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
the  marble  quarries  in  the  vicinity  were  extensively  worked. 
They  supplied  the  marble  used  in  the  construction  of  Girard 
College  in  Philadelphia.  Today  this  is  a  quiet  community 
whose  only  productiveness  is  along  agricultural  lines. 

Our  road  follows  the  winding  river  valley  through  some  of 
the  loveliest  of  the  Berkshire  landscapes.  A  mile  beyond  the 
Great  Barrington  town  line  we  cross  the  Green  river,  cele- 
brated by  Bryant  in  one  of  his  finest  poems. 

124.0  GREAT  BARRINGTON.  Alt  726  ft.  Pop  5926  (1910),  6612 
(1915).  Berkshire  Co.  Settled  1733.  Mfg.  paper,  cotton 
yarns,  bedspreads,  and  thermos  bottles. 

Great  Barrington  is"  a  thriving  residential  town  and  the  dis- 
tributing center  for  the  southern  Berkshires.  The  beautiful 
region  round  about  has  in  recent  years  vied  with  Lenox  and 
Stockbridge  as  a  fashionable  resort.  "  It  is  one  of  those  places," 
said  Henry  Ward  Beecher,  "which  one  never  enters  without 
wishing  never  to  leave.  It  rests  beneath  the  branches  of  great 
numbers  of  the  stateliest  elms." 

Near  the  center  of  the  village,  opposite  the  Berkshire  Inn,  is 
Barrington  House,  a  magnificent  blue  limestone  mansion  in 
French  Renaissance  style,  erected  by  the  late  Mrs.  Edward 
F.  Searles  at  a  cost  of  well  over  a  million  dollars.  On  the  same 
side  of  the  street  is  the  handsome  Congregational  Church  and 
the  Hopkins  Memorial  Manse.  The  church  contains  an  enor- 
mous organ  of  3954  pipes  and  60  speaking  stops,  with  an  echo 


248  GREAT   HARRINGTON— STOCKBRIDGE 

organ  concealed  in  the  wall  and  operated  by  two  and  a  half 
miles  of  electric  wire.  Further  north  is  the  Mason  Public 
Library,  one  of  the  most  attractive  pieces  of  Colonial  archi- 
tecture to  be  found  anywhere.  Opposite  is  the  Colonial  club 
house  and  auditorium  of  the  Thursday  Morning  Club,  a  public 
welfare  association  of  Great  Harrington.  Behind  the  Berk- 
shire Inn  is  the  Henderson  house,  built  by  General  Dwight, 
said  to  be  the  oldest  in  the  region.  At  the  time  of  the  Revolu- 
tion it  was  used  as  a  storehouse  for  supplies,  and  here,  in  1777, 
General  Burgoyne  was  lodged  when  on  his  way  to  Boston  as  a 
prisoner  of  war.  In  1821  it  was  the  scene  of  the  marriage  of 
William  Cullen  Bryant  to  Frances  Fairchild  of  this  town. 

William  Cullen  Bryant  (1794-1878)  was  the  town  clerk  of 
Great  Barrington  from  1815  to  1825,  and  many  of  the  town 
records  are  in  his  writing.  For  a  year  after  his  marriage  the 
poet  occupied  the  old  house  on  Taylor  Hill, — 200  yards  south 
of  the  Henderson  house, — where  many  of  his  poems  were  in- 
spired, including  "The  Death  of  the  Flowers,"  beginning  with 
the  much-quoted  "The  melancholy  days  are  come,  the  saddest 
of  the  year."  He  put  into  verse  the  Indian  legend  of  Oucan- 
nawa,  the  Indian  maiden  who,  forbidden  by  the  laws  of  her 
tribe  to  marry  her  cousin  lover,  leaped  to  her  death  from  a 
precipice  on  Monument  Mountain. 

On  Berkshire  Heights,  west  of  the  town,  and  the  adjacent 
hills,  there  are  numerous  fine  country  estates,  which,  however, 
are  so  concealed  by  trees  that  little  of  them  is  seen  from  the 
road.  At  Edgewood  Farms,  the  home  of  the  late  Dr.  Pearson, 
are  being  carried  on  interesting  demonstrations  to  stimulate 
the  interest  of  surrounding  farmers  in  the  agricultural  possi- 
bilities of  the  land.  South  from  the  center  of  the  village  is  the 
Sedgwick  School,  moved  here  in  1869.  About  a  mile  and  a 
half  south  from  the  village  are  the  grounds  of  the  Housatonic 
Agricultural  Society,  whose  annual  fair  in  September  is  a 
genuine  oldtime  country  fair.  In  this  same  region  is  the 
Hallock  School,  a  college  preparatory  school  for  boys  and  also 
Brookside  Farms,  the  estate  of  William  Hall  Walker  of  New 
York,  notable  for  the  Walled  Gardens,  upon  which  over 
$200,000  have  been  expended.  The  Wyantenuck  Country  Club, 
with  an  eighteen-hole  golf  course,  tennis  courts,  auditorium,  and 
swimming  pool,  is  a  mile  and  a  half  southwest  of  the  village. 

A  settlement  grew  up  here  at  the  principal  ford  across  the  Housa- 
tonic on  the  trail  from  Springfield  to  Fort  Orange  near  Albany.  This 
followed  an  earlier  Indian  trail  and  was  known  to  the  Dutch  as  The 
New  England  Path.  Originally  known  as  the  upper  Housatonic 
Township,  the  settlement  was  after  1743  known  as  Sheffield  North 
Parish  until  1761,  when  on  incorporation  it  was  named  in  honor  of 
Viscount  Barrington.  The  "Great"  was  preserved  to  distinguish  it 
from  Barrington,  R.I.,  which,  because  of  the  uncertainty  of  the  State 


R.   5    §    I.     NEW   YORK  CITY    TO    PITTSFIELD,    MASS.  249 

boundaries,  was  formerly  considered  as  possibly  within  the  limits  of 
Massachusetts.  The  first  trail  from  the  Connecticut  valley  to  Al- 
bany in  Colonial  times  passed  up  the  valley  of  the  Westfield  river 
through  Monterey,  Great  Barrington,  and  Stockbridge.  This  was  the 
course  followed  by  Major  Talcott  in  his  pursuit  of  King  Philip's 
Indians  in  1766,  and  became  the  route  of  the  military  road  used  through 
the  Revolution, — the  route  over  which  Burgoyne  and  his  soldiers  were 
taken  to  Boston.  Talcott's  skirmish  with  the  Indians  is  commemo- 
rated by  a  monument  on  Bridge  St.  near  the  Searles  High  School. 

At  the  eastern  end  of  the  bridge  which  crossed  the  Housatonic  was 
an  inn,  kept  by  Landlord  Root.  He  was  the  first  man  brought  to 
trial  in  Berkshire  County,  it  being  charged  that  he  "did  wittingly  and 
willfully  suffer  and  permit  singing,  fiddling,  and  dancing  in  his  dwelling 
house,  it  being  a  tavern  and  a  public  house."  On  pleading  guilty  he 
was  mulcted  ten  shillings  and  costs.  A  Mr.  Van  Rensselaer,  a  young 
gentleman  from  Albany,  rode  up  one  evening  to  the  inn  in  the  pouring 
rain.  The  innkeeper,  who  knew  him,  asked  him  where  he  had  crossed 
the  river.  He  answered,  "On  the  bridge."  Mr.  Root  replied  that 
that  was  impossible  because  it  had  been  razed  that  very  day  and  that 
not  a  plank  had  been  laid  on  it.  In  the  morning  Mr.  Van  Rensselaer 
went,  at  the  solicitation  of  his  host,  to  view  the  bridge;  and,  finding 
it  a  naked  frame,  gazed  for  a  moment  with  astonishment,  and  fainted. 

The  Rev.  Samuel  Hopkins,  the  author  of  a  system  of  divinity  known 
as  "Hopkinsian,"  was  dismissed  from  the  pastorate  here  in  1760  and 
moved  to  Newport.  Mrs.  Stowe  made  him  the  hero  of  her  "Min- 
ister's Wooing." 

Two  roads  lead  to  Stockbridge  from  Great  Barrington,  of 
which  the  shorter,  to  the  right,  climbs  through  the  notch  south 
of  Monument  Mountain.  The  main  road,  with  blue  markers, 
however,  leads  north  beside  the  R.R.  to  Van  Deusenville 
(127.5).  The  righthand  road  here  also  leads  over  the  pictur- 
esque notch  above  mentioned  and  is  often  preferred  on  account 
of  the  magnificent  view.  A  mile  up  this  road  is  the  stone 
house  (1771)  of  Isaac  Van  Deusen,  the  Dutch  settler. 

Continuing  on  the  main  road  we  enter  the  intervale  between 
Monument  Mountain  (1710  ft)  on  the  right  and  Tom  Ball 
Mountain  (1930  ft)  on  the  left.  In  the  hamlet  of  Housatonic 
(128.8)  are  cotton  factories  and  a  hydro-electric  power  plant 
with  a  28-foot  dam  and  a  fall  of  46  feet,  developing  3000  h.p. 

The  Indian  term  Housatonic  means  "beyond  the  mountain," 
and  was  applied  to  this  region  by  the  Hudson  River  Indians; 
some  authorities  support  a  derivation,  "proud  river  flowing 
through  the  rocks." 

In  Glendale  (132.5),  in  Stockbridge  township,  is  the  residence 
and  studio  of  Daniel  Chester  French,  sculptor  of  the  "Concord 
Minute  Man,"  and  "John  Harvard,"  and  the  bronze  doors  of 
the  Boston  Public  Library. 

133.6     STOCKBRIDGE.     Alt  839  ft.     Pop  1933  (1910),  1894  (1915). 
Berkshire  Co.     Settled  1734. 

This  idyllic  village  on  the  Housatonic  meadows  with  a 
classic  poise  in  its  dignified  neatness  has  been  a  favorite  summer 
resort  of  literary  and  artistic  people  almost  ever  since  the  days 


250  STOCKBRIDGE 

when  Jonathan  Edwards  preached  to  the  "good  Indians." 
To  the  north  it  merges  socially  and  scenically  into  Lenox. 

At  the  eastern  end  of  Main  St.  is  Laurel  Hill,  a  park  where 
The  Laurel  Hill  Association  was  organized  in  1853  with  the 
aim  of  increasing  the  natural  beauty  of  the  village.  This  was 
the  first  Village  Improvement  Society  in  the  United  States, 
and  was  organized  largely  through  the  efforts  of  Mrs.  John  Z. 
Goodrich.  The  hill  was  presented  to  the  town  by  the  Sedg- 
wick  family,  and  a  rostrum  has  been  recently  erected  there  to 
the  memory  of  Henry  D.  Sedgwick,  one  of  the  founders  of  the 
society  whose  annual  meetings  are  held  here. 

St.  Paul's  Church,  a  handsome  Norman  structure  designed 
by  McKim,  is  richly  decorated;  the  Baptistry  is  by  Saint- 
Gaudens,  the  pulpit  is  Florentine.  One  of  the  memorial 
windows  is  to  the  memory  of  the  son  of  the  Hon.  J.  H.  Choate. 
The  bell  and  the  clock  were  given  by  M.  B.  Field  and  G.  P.  R. 
James,  the  English  novelist,  resident  of  Stockbridge  for  two 
years.  The  Red  Lion  Inn,  opposite  the  church,  was  opened  in 
1773,  but  the  present  building  dates  from  1897.  The  Plumb 
Collection  of  Colonial  china  and  pewter  is  on  view  here. 

Further  along  Main  St.  on  the  left  is  the  Sedgwick  home- 
stead, where  Catharine  Sedgwick  was  born  and  where  Sedg- 
wicks  still  live.  The  family  has  always  taken  a  prominent 
part  in  local  affairs.  When  Longfellow  was  visiting  Miss 
Appleton  here  he  was  told  that  the  very  grasshoppers  cry 
"Sedgwick,  Sedgwick,  Sedgwick!"  The  sun-dial  on  the  lawn 
of  the  Caldwell  estate  across  the  street  marks  the  site  of 
Jonathan  Edwards'  study,  where  the  great  divine  wrote  "The 
Freedom  of  the  Will,"  still  acclaimed  as  the  intellectual  master- 
piece of  American  letters.  Aaron  Burr,  his  brilliant  grandson, 
spent  much  of  his  boyhood  here.  The  Casino,  close  by,  is  one 
of  the  centers  of  social  activity  for  the  whole  region.  In  ad- 
dition to  dances,  concerts,  and  the  other  usual  entertainments 
there  is  an  annual  flower  show,  and  also  an  annual  exhibition 
of  paintings  and  sculpture  where  all  artists  living  or  painting 
in  the  Berkshires  are  privileged  to  exhibit. 

On  the  Green  near  the  Town  Hall  is  the  Field  Memorial 
Tower,  built  by  David  Dudley  Field  in  memory  of  his  grand- 
children. It  stands  on  the  site  of  the  first  meeting  house,  and 
the  chimes  recall  the  hoarse  conch  shell  used  by  its  Indian 
worshipers  to  call  the  congregation. 

The  Rev.  David  Dudley  Field  was  one  of  the  noteworthy  persons 
of  this  region  whose  children  became  national  figures.  Cyrus  W. 
Field  was  the  founder  of  the  Atlantic  Cable  Company;  Stephen  J. 
Field,  a  Supreme  Court  Justice;  Henry  M.  Field,  a  prominent  preacher 
and  writer;  David  D.  Field,  Jr.,  an  eminent  New  York  jurist;  and 
Jonathan  E.  Field,  an  eminent  lawyer  and  War  President  of  the 
Massachusetts  Senate.  David  Dudley  Field  lived  at  Laurel  Cottage 


R.    5   §   I-     NEW  YORK  CITY   TO   ITTTSFIELD,    MASS.          251 

on  Main  St.  and  later  on  Prospect  Hill.  The  Rev.  Henry  M.  Field 
lived  at  Windymere,  also  on  Prospect  Hill,  on  the  site  of  the  garrison 
house  of  Colonel  Ephraim  Williams  of  Williams  College  and  Fort 
Massachusetts  (p  408). 

Joseph  H.  Choate,  Dean  of  the  New  York  bar  and  Ex-am- 
bassador to  the  Court  of  St.  James,  spends  a  good  part  of  his 
year  on  Prospect  Hill,  on  his  'Plantation.'  Council  Grove, 
where  the  Stockbridge  Indians  held  their  conclave  beneath  the 
great  trees,  is  now  the  country  estate  of  Charles  S.  Mellen, 
former  president  of  the  New  Haven  Railroad,  who  now  describes 
himself  under  oath  as  an  "agriculturist,"  explaining  that  his 
is  a  vertical  farm  in  a  notch  where  a  railway  may  some  day  run. 

At  the  western  end  of  Main  St.,  facing  the  meeting  house  by 
the  forks  of  the  road,  is  the  Jonathan  Edwards  Monument, 
and  just  beyond  it  is  the  simple  monument  to  the  Indians, 
standing  in  their  ancient  burial  place.  It  is  a  monolith  brought 
from  Ice  Glen.  The  Mission  House  on  Prospect  Hill  on  the 
S.  H.  Woodward  place  is  the  oldest  house  in  Stockbridge.  It 
was  built  by  the  colony  for  John  Sergeant,  who  imparted  both 
religious  and  industrial  instruction  to  his  charges. 

The  Ice  Glen  is  a  curious  fissure  in  the  hillside  at  the  foot  of 
Laura's  Tower,  a  spur  of  Bear  Mountain.  Ice  is  sometimes 
found  here  in  midsummer.  The  Glen  is  reached  by  a  short 
walk  across  the  Memorial  Bridge  over  the  Housatonic.  To 
the  north  is  Lake  Mahkeenac,  or  Stockbridge  Bowl,  set  in  the 
midst  of  hills  and  surrounded  by  magnificent  villas.  To  the 
west  is  Monument  Mountain,  which  in  Bryant's  words 

"seems  a  fragment  of  some  mighty  wall, 
Built  by  the  hand  that  fashioned  the  old  world. 
To  separate  its  nations,  and  throw  down 
When  the  flood  drowned  them.     To  the  north  a  path 
Conducts  you  up  the  narrow  battlement. 
Steep  is  the  western  side,  shaggy  and  wild 
With  mossy  trees,  and  pinnacles  of  flint 
And  many  a  hanging  crag.     But,  to  the  east, 
Sheer  to  the  vale  go  down  the  bare  old  cliffs." 

The  climb  up  the  rough,  steep  trail  is  repaid  by  the  mag- 
nificent view  of  the  Housatonic  valley.  The  name  is  variously 
ascribed  to  a  cairn  of  stones,  since  overthrown,  reared  by  the 
Indians  in  primitive  custom  to  the  memory  of  an  Indian 
maiden  whose  love  for  her  cousin,  forbidden  by  tribal  law, 
impelled  her  to  leap  from  the  crags,  and  to  the  stone  profile 
that  looks  eastward  near  the  summit.  The  mountain  is  com- 
posed of  rough  masses  of  white  quartz,  one  isolated  mass  being 
known  as  The  Pulpit. 

Northwest,  at  Curtisville,  is  St.  Helen's  Home,  a  fresh-air 
place  for  city  children,  the  philanthropic  work  of  Mr.  John  E. 
Parsons,  late  of  New  York  and  Lenox.  Near  here  is  the  small 
but  beautiful  Lake  Averic. 


STOCKBRIDGE— ADAMS 


In  1734,  after  a  year  at  Great  Harrington,  John  Sergeant  of  Yale 
commenced  preaching  to  the  peaceful  Indian  tribe  in  the  Stockbridge 
meadows.  So  delectable  was  the  land  that  settlers  soon  followed 
Sergeant  hither  and  with  laudable  forethought  planted  the  great  elms 
that  give  Main  Street  an  air  of  distinction  superior  to  almost  any  other 
street  in  New  England.  The  group  known  as  The  Owen  Elms  was 
planted  by  Timothy  Edwards,  son  of  Jonathan  Edwards,  in  1786. 

In  1750  the  great  Jonathan  Edwards,  also  of  Yale,  felt  constrained 
to  leave  his  much-loved  ministry  of  twenty-four  years  at  Northamp- 
ton, owing  to  the  laxity  of  views  in  his  congregation.  Inspired  with 
an  earnestness  and  sincerity  rare  even  in  those  days,  and  feeling  the 
blow  of  parting  from  his  long-loved  church,  he  took  refuge  in  the 
wilderness  here  and  carried  on  the  mission,  devoting  his  leisure  to  his 
famous  treatise.  In  1758  he  was  appointed  President  of  Princeton, 
where  he  died  in  the  early  spring.  Although  of  the  most  rigorous 
type  of  Calvinist,  Edwards  was  not  merely  a  grim  personality;  his 
letters  in  praise  of  the  maid  who  became  his  wife  are  as  tender  and 
refreshing  as  any  in  our  literature,  and  his  life  was  illuminated  through- 
out by  "an  inward  sweet  delight  in  God,"  so  that  he  appeared  to 
many  not  merely  as  philosopher  and  theologian  but  as  saint. 

The  school  founded  by  Sergeant  for  the  Indians  is  probably  the 
first  industrial  school  in  the  nation.  The  effects  of  the  mission,  un- 
corrupted  by  the  rum-selling  elsewhere  customary,  were  so  fruitful 
in  their  effect  upon  the  placid  tribe  that  even  after  the  Revolution  the 
natives  held  positions  in  the  town  government  side  by  side  with  the 
colonists.  They  have  been  known  as  "the  good  Indians  of  Stock- 
bridge"  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  years.  Today  the  remnant  of  the 
tribe,  after  being  settled  at  Utica,  is  at  Red  Springs,  Wis. 

The  captive  Hessians  are  supposed  by  some  to  have  marched  through 
Stockbridge  on  their  way  to  Boston  after  Burgoyne's  surrender,  and 
echoes  of  Shays'  Rebellion  after  the  Revolution  reached  its  seclusion. 
Since  then  it  has  remained  undisturbed.  Its  literary  associations 
additional  to  those  mentioned  above  include  Mark  Hopkins  (R.  15), 
who  was  born  at  Cherry  Farm,  Dr.  Charles  McBurney's  place;  Long- 
fellow, who  courted  Miss  Appleton  of  Pittsfield  here  (R.  13),  Irving, 
Dean  Stanley,  Matthew  Arnold,  and  Hawthorne  and  Herman  Mel- 
ville, who  first  became  intimate  in  a  thunder-storm  on  Monument 
Mountain,  which  drove  them  to  shelter  in  a  crevice  too  narrow  to 
permit  further  shyness.  Edward  Bellamy,  author  of  "Looking  Back- 
ward," made  this  region  the  scene  of  his  novel  "The  Duke  of  Stock- 
bridge,"  which  deals  with  events  at  the  time  of  Shays'  Rebellion. 
Industrially  Stockbridge  early  attained  significance,  which  was  con- 
tinued for  but  a  short  time.  In  1794  a  woolen  factory  operated  by 
waterpower  was  established  here, — one  of  the  earliest  in  the  country, — 
for  the  Federal  census  of  1800  mentions  only  three  woolen  factories  in 
the  United  States,  with  a  total  capacity  of  15,000  yards  a  year. 

Note.  From  Stockbridge  a  State  Road  leads  eastward 
through  South  Lee  to  East  Lee  (2.5),  where  it  joins  Route  13 
from  Pittsfield  to  Springfield.  Other  routes  from  Stockbridge 
to  Lenox  run  to  the  west  of  Rattlesnake  Mountain  via  the 
Stockbridge  Bowl. 

The  direct  route  to  Lenox,  a  State  Highway,  still  marked  by 
blue  bands  on  poles  and  posts,  runs  directly  north  to  the  east 
of  Rattlesnake  Hill  (1540  ft).  On  an  elevation  to  the  north  of 
Laurel  Lake  on  the  right  is  The  Perch,  famous  as  the  home 
of  Fanny  Kemble. 


R.   5   §   2.     PITTSFIELD   TO   WILLIAMSTOWN  253 

139.6     LENOX  (R.  13). 

The  route  from  here  north  to  Pittsfield  (R.  13)  is  a  portion 
of  the  east  and  west  route  from  Albany  to  Springfield  and  con- 
sequently is  marked  by  red  bands  on  poles  and  posts. 
145.5     PITTSFIELD  (R.  13). 

R.  5  §  2.  Pittsfield  via  Cheshire  to  North  Adams  (22.0  m.) 
and  Williamstown.  27  5  m. 

This  route  follows  the  State  Highway,  clearly  marked,  as 
far  as  North  Adams,  by  blue  bands  on  telegraph  poles  and 
fence  posts.  From  North  Adams  to  Williamstown  it  follows 
the  east  and  west  Highway,  similarly  marked  with  red  bands. 
An  alternate  route  leads  via  Lanesboro  to  Williamstown 
direct  (see  next  page). 

Leaving  Pittsfield  via  North  St.,  at  the  House  of  Mercy 
Hospital  take  the  right  fork  with  the  trolley  on  Tyler  St.  into 
Dalton  Ave.  At  Coltsville  (5.0)  turn  north  upgrade,  leaving 
trolley,  with  blue  markers.  The  route  straight  on,  yellow 
markers,  leads  through  Windsor  and  Cummington  to  North- 
ampton and  Ashfield  (R.  id). 

Berkshire  (5.5)  is  a  small  hamlet  with  glass  works,  the  sole 
survivor  of  a  once  prosperous  industry.  The  Berkshire  Glass 
Works  started  here  in  1853  were  famous  for  the  making  of 
window  glass  until  the  use  of  natural  gas  occasioned  the  re- 
moval of  the  industry  westward. 

The  route  for  several  miles  skirts  a  reservoir  and  then  fol- 
lows the  narrow  valley  and  the  headwaters  of  the  Hoosic  river. 

10.5  CHESHIRE.  Alt  1000  ft.  Pop  150S  (1910),  1535  (1915). 
Berkshire  Co.  Settled  1766.  Mfg.  lime;  glass-sand  and 
iron  ore. 

In  1 80 1  Cheshire  Democrats  expressed  their  exultation  at 
Jefferson's  election  by  making  the  'Cheshire  Cheese,'  of  1235 
pounds,  moulded  in  a  cider  press,  and  hauled  to  Hudson  Ferry 
by  a  fabulous  number  of  oxen,  whence  it  was  safely  forwarded 
to  the  new  President. 

A  road  up  Greylock  starts  on  the  left  at  Cheshire  Harbor 
(13.0),  a  hamlet  between  Cheshire  and  Adams.  The  Pinnacle, 
a  spur  of  Greylock,  looms  above  the  road  to  the  west,  and  at 
Adams  the  dome  of  Greylock  itself  stands  high  at  the  head  of 
the  valley  on  ihe  left;  the  Chieftain's  Stairway,  a  scar  on  the 
mountainside,  was  made  by  a  cloudburst  in  1902. 

16.0     ADAMS.     Alt  790  ft.     Pop  (twp)  13,026  (1910),  13,218  (1915). 

Berkshire  Co.    Settled  1761.    Mfg.  cotton,  paper,  and  lime; 

marble.    Named  for  Samuel  Adams. 

In  McKinley  Square  is  a  statue  of  President  McKinley,  who 
laid  the  cornerstone  of  the  Memorial  Library  facing  the  statue. 


254  ADAMS— LANESBORO 

From  the  Forest  Park  Observatory,  west  of  the  square,  there 
is  a  view  of  the  town  and  its  vicinage,  with  the  old  Quaker 
meeting  house  and  graveyard,  dating  from  the  Quaker  settle- 
ment that  far  outnumbered  all  other  denominations  in  the 
early  days  of  the  town.  Susan  B.  Anthony,  pioneer  of  the 
woman's  suffrage  cause,  was  born  here.  Her  father  had 
taught  the  district  school  in  the  South  Village,  and  Susan  at 
the  age  of  fifteen  taught  the  children  of  Bowens  Corners  at 
her  grandfather's  homestead  for  a  dollar  a  week  apiece.  In  the 
hollows  of  the  Ragged  Mountain  road  are  several  of  the  oldest 
houses  in  this  section,  near  the  marble  quarries;  and  near 
the  river  is  the  Government  Trout  Hatchery,  which  supplies 
the  brooks  of  western  Massachusetts  with  250,000  fry  annu- 
ally. Here  are  located  the  Berkshire  Cotton  Mills,  one  of  the 
largest  in  the  country,  and  the  L.  L.  Brown  Paper  Company. 
Adams  was  originally  known  as  East  Hoosuc.  On  its  incorporation 
in  1788  it  was  named  in  honor  of  Samuel  Adams,  'The  Father  of  the 
Revolution.'  Just  a  century  later  its  overgrown  daughter  was  sepa- 
rated from  it. 

The  road  to  North  Adams  follows  the  trolley,  east  of  the 
river  and  the  railroad.  Hoosac  Mountain  is  on  the  right,  and 
the  Green  Mountains  ahead.  Zylonite  (18.3)  is  a  village  named 
from  a  substitute  for  celluloid  manufactured  there.  In  the 
meadows  is  a  buried  forest,  submerged  by  the  lake  whose  shore 
line  is  still  traceable  on  the  mountainsides.  In  Colonial  days 
this  section  was  known  as  Slab  City. 

22.0    NORTH  ADAMS  (R.  IS). 

From   North  Adams   to  Williamstown   reverse   Route    15, 
marked  by  red  bands  on  poles  and  posts,  down  the  valley  of 
the  Hoosic. 
27.5     WILLIAMSTOWN  (R.  15). 

Alternate   Route.     Pittsfield  to  Williamstown,  via  Lanesboro 
and  New  Ashford.    22.0  m. 

This  route,  though  not  adopted  as  the  State  Trunk  Highway, 
is  chiefly  State  macadam  with  no  heavy  grades. 

From  Pittsfield  the  route  follows  North  St.  past  the  Maple- 
wood  Hotel  on  the  right  and  the  hospital  on  the  left  into 
Wahconah  St.  The  road  skirts  Pontoosuc  Lake  to 

5.5    LANESBORO.     Alt   1100  ft.     Pop   947    (1910),   1087    (1915). 

Berkshire  Co.    Settled  1754. 

Lanesboro  is  still  a  rural  village,  contrasting  with  the  trim 
urbanity  of  Lenox  and  Stockbridge.  Originally  called  New 
Framingham,  it  was  afterward  named  as  a  compliment  to  the 
beautiful  Irish  Countess  of  Lanesborough. 


R.  5   §   2.     PITTSFIELD  TO   WILLIAMSTOWN  255 

Near  the  entrance  to  the  village  on  the  right  is  the  cemetery, 
and  from  the  highway  is  seen  opposite  the  gate;  on  a  rise  of 
ground,  a  granite  boulder  with  the  inscription,  "Josh  Billings." 
This  is  the  grave  of  Henry  W.  Shaw  (b.  1818),  who  under  his 
pen  name  was  as  familiar  to  past  generations  as  '  Mr.  Dooley' 
is  today.  He  literally  rode  into  popularity  by  his  "Essa  on  the 
Muel,"  and  he  won  a  secure  position  and  a  comfortable  com- 
petency by  his  adherence  to  his  pet  saying,  "Tu  sta  is  tu  win. 
A  man  can  outliv  a  not  hoal."  This  appeared  in  a  comic 
almanac  which  ran  to  170,000  copies  and  made  his  fortune. 
Half  a  mile  further  up  the  street  on  the  right  is  the  com- 
fortable building  with  the  broad,  double-columned  stoop, 
now  the  Hillcrest  Inn,  which  was  his  ancestral  home.  Here 
his  father,  Henry  Shaw,  was  visited  by  the  statesman  Henry 
Clay. 

On  Constitution  Hill,  to  the  west  of  the  village,  overlooking 
Pontoosuc  Lake,  was  the  home  of  Jonathan  Smith  for  whom 
the  hill  was  named.  It  was  largely  due  to  the  speech  that 
Smith  made  before  the  State  Conference  that  the  Federal  Con- 
stitution was  adopted.  A  boulder  at  the  crossroads  bears  this 
inscription : 

"In  memory  of 
Jonathan   Smith 

A  plain  farmer  of  Lanesborough 

who  by  a  speech  full  of  good  sense  and  good  feeling 

carried  the  Massachusetts  convention 

September  1787 — February  1788 
by  a  vote  of   187  to   168  in  favor  of  ratifying 

The   Federal   Constitution. 

"1  have  lived  in  a  part  of  the  country  where  I  have  known  the  worth 
of  good  government  by  the  want  of  it.  ...  I  had  been  a  member  of 
the  convention  to  form  our  own  State  Constitution,  and  had  learned 
something  of  the  checks  and  balances  of  power;  and  I  found  them  all 
here.  .  .  .  Take  things  in  time.  Gather  fruit  when  it  is  ripe  ...  we 
sowed  our  seed  when  we  sent  men  to  the  Federal  Convention:  now  is 
the  harvest,  now  is  the  time  to  reap  the  fruit  of  our  labor." 

The  first  settlers  chose  this  site  because  well  away  from  the  Indian 
trails,  but  nevertheless  the  town  was  destroyed  in  1766  during  King 
Philip's  War,  but  soon  after  rebuilt.  The  glass  works  of  Lanesboro 
and  Lenox  Furnace  were  once  famous.  They  derived  their  material 
from  the  snow-white  quartz  which  is  found  in  masses  in  the  ledges 
about  here  and  is  now  shipped  to  Pittsburgh  and  other  glass  centers. 

Beyond  the  village  the  route  keeps  to  the  left  of  the  fork, 
following  the  Williamstown  sign.  The  route  ascends  the  valley 
of  a  little  stream  and  at  New  Ashford  (14.0)  crosses  the  divide 
and  begins  the  descent  of  a  tributary  of  the  Green  river.  As 
we  emerge  into  the  broader  valley  of  the  main  stream  the 
scene  that  discloses  itself  is  one  of  singular  beauty.  On  the 
right  towers  Grey  lock  (3500  ft),  which  Holmes  poetically 
called  "the  highest  wave  of  the  great  land  storm  of  all  this 


256  LANESBORO— BENN1NGTON 

billowing  region,"  and  which  Frances  Ann  Kemble  has  com- 
memorated in  the  following  lines: 

"  Greylock,  cloud-girdled,  from  his  purple  throne, 

A  voice  of  welcome  sends, 
And  from  green  sunny  fields,  a  warbling  tone 
The  Housatonic  blends." 

To  the  left  is  the  long,  beautiful  line  of  the  Taconic  range, 
while  before  one  stretches  the  broad  valley  of  Williamstown 
until  it  meets  the  first  swell  of  the  Green  Mountains,  around 
whose  base  winds  the  Hoosic  on  its  way  to  join  the  Hudson. 

16.5     SOUTH  WILLIAMSTOWN.    Alt  1000  ft. 

This  quiet  hamlet  is  superbly  situated  in  the  lower  Green 
river  valley,  where  it  broadens  into  the  valley  of  the  Hoosic. 
To  the  east  of  the  village,  Hopper  Brook  is  a  natural  amphi- 
theater, known  as  the  Hopper,  formed  by  the  combined  action 
of  frost  and  stream.  The  southern  wall  of  the  valley  is  known 
as  Stony  Ledge,  or  the  'Bald  Pate'  of  the  Lion  Couchant,  as 
Professor  Albert  Hopkins  loved  to  call  it.  The  northern  side 
is  formed  by  Simonds  Peak  of  Prospect  Mountain.  In  the 
upper  part  of  the  valley,  sometimes  called  the  Inner  Hopper, 
lingers  a  legend  of  counterfeiters  of  Revolutionary  days.  Here 
are  the  Wawbeek  and  Sky  Falls,  probably  the  highest  per- 
manent cascades  in  the  State.  Of  them  Professor  Hopkins 
wrote:  "The  falls  are  in  a  dell  so  deep  and  lonely,  that  to  most 
persons  they  are  destined  to  remain  among  the  myths  of 
Greylock.  Only  those  who  have  beheld  the  Notch  and  the 
Inner  Hopper,  or  Hopper  within  the  Hopper,  are  able  to  ap- 
preciate the  tremendous  powers  that  have  nearly  overthrown 
the  Chieftain  Greylock  himself." 

The  Camping  Ground,  near  the  head  of  Bacon  Brook  in  the 
southern  branch  of  the  valley,  is  the  site  of  the  annual  camp  of 
the  Alpine  Club  of  Williams,  founded  by  Professor  Hopkins  in 
1863,  the  first  of  its  kind  in  this  country. 

Cloudbursts  have  scarred  the  sides  of  the  valleys  with  land- 
slides; the  air  currents  above  the  Hopper  also  produce  strange 
phenomena,  not  only  blasts  of  sound,  like  that  of  the  famous 
Bellowspipe  above  North  Adams,  but  also  freakish  drafts 
which  suck  kites  and  even  balloonists  down  into  the  Hopper 
from  the  mountain  heights.  The  farmers  foretell  the  weather 
by  the  degree  of  mistiness  in  the  Hopper  of  a  morning,  the 
clearer  its  outlines  the  better  the  weather,  they  say. 

22 JO     WILLIAMSTOWN  (R.  IS). 


R.   5   §   3-      WILLIAMSTOWN   TO   MANCHESTER  257 

R.  5  §  3.     Williamstown  to  Manchester.  36.5  m.» 

This  route  through  Bennington  to  Manchester  offers  scenic 
attractions  of  the  first  order.  From  Williamstown  the  Massa- 
chusetts State  Highway  is  clearly  indicated  by  blue  markers 
to  the  State  Line.  Through  Vermont  this  route  follows  a  trunk 
line  State  Road  with  a  gravel  surface.  At  each  township 
boundary  the  names  of  the  towns  are  indicated  by  sign  posts 
erected  by  the  State  Highway  Commission. 

The  route  leaves  Williamstown  by  North  St.,  taking  the 
right  fork  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  one  half  mile  beyond  crossing 
the  Hoosic  river,  then  passing  under  R.R.  and  along  the 
north  bank  of  the  river  above  the  picturesque  intervales  of 
Pownal  Pass,  with  The  Dome  (2754  ft)  on  the  right,  following 
the  route  taken  by  George  Washington  on  his  visit  to  Benning- 
ton in  1790  to  consult  on  Vermont's  admission  to  the  Union. 
Two  and  one  half  miles  from  Williamstown  we  cross  the 
State  line  into  Vermont. 

4.8    POWNAL  (R.  15). 

Bearing  to  the  right  upon  entering  Pownal  and  then  taking 
the  middle  road  at  the  triple  fork  the  route  leaves  the  valley 
of  the  Hoosic  and  climbs  round  the  side  of  Mann  Hill  into 
Pownal  Center  (7.3),  a  crossroads  village,  and  continues 
straight  down  the  Jewett  Brook  valley  with  Carpenter  Hill 
and  maple-covered  Mt.  Anthony  (2345  ft)  on  the  left.  Mt. 
Anthony  is  in  Colgate's  Park,  through  which  there  is  a  good 
road.  It  was  named  from  the  chapel-  of  St.  Anthony,  built 
somewhere  at  its  foot  by  the  fur-traders  and  Jesuits  who  came 
up  the  Walloomsac  valley  from  Albany  in  1 540.  In  the  north- 
eastern face  there  is  a  cave  reached  through  a  crevice. 

13.5  BENNINGTON.  Alt  682  ft.  Pop  6211.  County-seat  of  Ben- 
nington Co.  Settled  1761.  Mfg.  knit  goods,  collars  and 
cuffs,  woolens,  paper,  machinery,  optical  specialties. 

Bennington  is  picturesquely  located  on  the  Walloomsac 
river  between  Bald  Mountain  (2865  ft)  to  the  east  and  Mt. 
Anthony  to  the  west.  It  is  a  favorite  summering  place  with 
broad  shady  streets  and  historic  sites  to  increase  its  charm  as 
well  as  the  honor  of  supplying  scenes  for  Owen  Wister's  novel 
"The  Virginian."  With  native  Vermont  acumen  the  towns- 
people have  also  encouraged  the  growth  of  a  surprising  number 
of  diversified  industries,  some  of  them  more  than  a  century 
old.  Its  name  honors  the  memory  of  Governor  Benning 
Wentworth  of  New  Hampshire,  who  granted  this  land. 

In  Bennington  Center,  one  mile  west  of  Bennington,  at  the 
corner  of  Main  St.  and  the  Parade,  is  the  bronze  figure  of  a 
catamount  on  a  granite  pedestal,  facing  toward  New  York 


258  BENNINGTON 

•State.  The  site  of  the  Catamount  Tavern,  built  in  1766  and 
burned  in  1871,  is  fifty  feet  from  it.  The  sign  was  a  stuffed 
catamount  hung  at  the  inn  door  as  a  hint  to  New  Yorkers  of 
the  fate  that  would  overtake  them  if  they  persisted  in  their 
attempts  to  seize  Bennington  lands.  The  climax  followed  in 
a  skirmish  or  two  in  1771-75.  The  Councils  of  Safety  held 
by  the  Green  Mountain  Boys  under  Ethan  Allen  often  met  in 
this  tavern  (1767-91),  and  General  Stark's  Council  assem- 
bled here  on  the  eve  of  Bennington  Battle.  Next  door  was 
Ethan  Allen's  house,  whither  he  returned  with  military  honors 
after  his  imprisonment  in  England,  1775-78. 

On  an  adjacent  corner  is  the  Walloomsac  Inn,  built  in  1764, 
the  oldest  hostelry  now  open  in  Vermont.  The  builder  and 
first  landlord  was  the  eldest  son  of  Parson  Dewey,  first  minister 
of  the  Old  First  Church,  which  still  stands  east  of  the  inn  and  is 
the  oldest  in  the  State.  The  cemetery  contains  early  graves 
with  cherub-sculptured  tombstones  and  curious  epitaphs. 

West  of  the  Walloomsac  Inn  on  Mt.  Anthony  Road  is  the 
mansion  built  in  1792  by  Isaac  Tichenor,  one  of  the  first  U.S. 
Senators,  and  Governor  of  Vermont,  nicknamed  the  'Jersey 
Slick'  in  reference  to  his  ready  eloquence  and  New  Jersey 
birth.  At  the  head  of  the  Parade  is  the  homestead  of  General 
David  Robinson,  which  has  remained  in  the  family  ever  since 
its  erection  in  1796.  It  contains  one  of  the  finest  collections 
of  antiques  in  the  State,  including  General  Robinson's  sword 
and  hat  and  Colonel  Baum's  sword  and  camp-kettle. 

A  granite  boulder  on  Monument  Ave.  shows  the  site  of 
William  Lloyd  Garrison's  newspaper  office,  where  the  famous 
abolitionist  edited  "The  Journal  of  the  Times"  in  1828. 

Bennington  Battle  Monument,  the  highest  battle  memorial 
in  the  world,  is  constructed  of  blue-gray  dolomite,  37  feet 
square  at  the  base  and  over  306  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a 
rod  with  a  ten-pointed  star  3  feet  in  diameter.  Within  are 
trophies,  including  Burgoyne's  camp-kettle.  The  monument 
is  open  daily,  and  is  ascended  by  a  staircase  with  broad  sloping 
treads  similar  to  Michelangelo's  stairway  in  the  Farnese  Palace 
at  Rome.  The  outlook  room  is  8  feet  square  and  200  feet 
above  the  ground.  Near  its  base  is  a  stone  marking  the  site 
of  the  storehouse  which  the  British  troops  sought  to  seize. 
The  battle  ground  is  eight  miles  west  on  the  road  to  Old 
Cambridge  and  Troy,  N.Y.  (R.  15). 

North  of  the  Battle  Monument  on  the  road  to  Manchester 
is  the  Vermont  Soldiers'  Home.  In  its  grounds  is  the  highest 
natural  single  jet  fountain  known,  registered  by  survey  196 
feet.  It  is  supplied  from  Bald  Mountain,  and  was  built  by 
Seth  B.  Hunt. 


5   §  3-     WILLIAMSTOWN   TO   MANCHESTER 


259 


The  Mt.  Anthony  Golf  Club  is  a  mile  north  of  the  Center, 
near  the  monument.  Fishing  is  good  in  several  streams  here- 
abouts, owing  to  the  activity  of  the  Bennington  County  Forest, 


"FOR  GOD  AND  COUNTRY" 
THE  OLD  FERST  CHURCH  AND  BATTLE  MONUMENT,  BENNINGTON 

Fish,  and  Game  Association,  which  stocks  the  streams  annually 
with  hundreds  of  thousands  of  trout  and  perch,  and  provides 
public  camps  at  some  of  the  best  fishing  centers. 

The  Long  Trail,  Vermont's  vaunted  pedestrian  path  laid 


260  BENNINGTON— ARLINGTON 

out  by  the  Green  Mountain  Club  along  the  crests  of  the 
Green  Mountains,  begins  here.  At  present  the  Trail  has  been 
completed  between  the  Massachusetts  line  and  Prospect  Reck 
opposite  the  village  of  Manchester,  between  Killington  Peak 
and  Lincoln  Mountain  east  of  the  village  of  Bristol,  and 
between  Camels  Hump  and  the  village  of  Johnson  in  the 
Lamoille  Valley;  arrows  as  well  as  'blazes'  mark  the  way  at 
doubtful  situations,  and  some  shelter  camps  are  provided. 
When  finished  there  will  be  a  well-marked  path  from  the 
Massachusetts  line  near  Bennington  to  the  Canadian  line  near 
Jay  Peak,  North  Troy,  with  continuations  southward,  it  is 
hoped,  through  the  Berkshires  and  the  Litchfield  Hills  to  the 
Hudson  Highlands,  as  well  as  northward  into  the  Notre  Dame 
Mountains  of  Canada. 

Bennington's  founders  were  veterans  of  the  French  and  Indian  War. 
The  town  was  typical  of  Governor  Benning  Wentworth's  New  Hamp- 
shire grants  with  proviso  that  each  settler  develop  his  land,  build  a 
regulation  house,  and  help  build  the  meeting  house,  schools,  mills, 
bridges,  and  roads. 

From  1771  to  1775  Bennington  made  armed  resistance  against  New 
York's  endeavor  to  claim  territory.  The  battle  of  Bennington  (Aug. 
6,  1777)  was  the  turning  point  of  the  Revolution.  It  led  directly  to 
Burgoyne's  defeat,  which  was  followed  by  the  recognition  of  the 
United  States  by  France  and  other  European  countries.  The  object 
of  the  British  forces,  600  Hessians  and  British  with  150  Indians,  under 
Colonels  Baum  and  Breyman,  was  the  seizure  of  the  Colonial  stores  and 
provisions  at  Bennington.  They  entrenched  on  the  heights  in  Hoosick, 
N.Y.,  north  of  the  Walloomsac  on  the  Bennington-Old  Cambridge 
road,  eight  miles  west  of  the  monument.  Brigades  of  patriots  mobilized 
at  Manchester,  Vt.,  and  at  Bennington,  and  marched  upon  the  enemy. 
Three  bands  of  300  each  were  sent  by  General  John  Stark  of  New 
Hampshire  to  attack  the  British  rear  and  both  flanks;  the  remaining 
700  under  Stark  attacked  the  front.  The  British  were  forced  to  retreat 
with  a  loss  of  207  killed,  including  Baum,  658  prisoners,  and  four  brass 
field  pieces;  the  Americans,  although  fighting  in  their  shirtsleeves,  ill- 
armed,  and  in  many  cases  barefoot,  lost  but  40  killed  and  30  wounded. 
'  Gentleman  Johnny '  Burgoyne  later  declared  that  this  defeat  marked 
the  beginning  of  his  downfall. 

The  "fighting  parson,"  Thomas  Allen  of  Pittsfield,  cousin  of  Ethan 
Allen,  joined  General  Stark  before  dawn  on  the  day  of  battle.  It 
was  dark  and  rainy,  but  Stark  assured  the  parson,  "If  the  Lord  once 
more  gives  us  sunshine,  and  I  don't  give  you  fighting  enough,  I'll  never 
ask  you  to  turn  out  again." 

As  he  led  his  men  into  position  Stark  cried,  "There  are  the  red- 
coats and  they  are  ours  or  this  night  Molly  Stark  sleeps  a  widow!" 

In  1775  the  first  iron  forge  in  America  for  making  nails  was  opened 
on  Mill  St.,  and  in  1811  the  Doty  Cotton  Mill  was  running  on  the 
site  of  the  E.  Z.  Waist  factory,  and  woolen  mills  were  also  in  operation. 
Today  these  industries  appear  in  the  manufacture  of  knit  goods  by 
the  Cooper  Manufacturing  Company,  H.  E.  Bradford  &  Co.,  and  others. 
The  Holden  &  Leonard  Company  manufacture  cloaks  and  suitings. 
Deposits  of  white  clay  and  ocher  are  found  in  the  township. 

The  route  turns  north  from  Main  St.  at  Bennington  Center, 
passing  the  Battle  Monument  and  the  Mt.  Anthony  Golf  Club. 


R.    5    §  3-     WILLIAMSTOWN  TO   MANCHESTER  261 

and  crossing  the  river  by  an  old  covered  bridge.  The  road 
then  climbs  200  feet  in  the  next  half  mile  and  continues  north- 
ward, leaving  North  Bennington  in  the  valley  to  the  west. 
Crossing  the  Bennington  town  line  the  road  leads,  a  mile 
further,  into 

78.5  SOUTH  SHAFTSBURY.  Alt  711  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1650.  Ben- 
nington Co.  Settled  1763.  Named  for  Earls  of  Shaftsbury. 
Mfg.  squares  and  brush  handles. 

The  Eagle  Square  Manufacturing  Company  perpetuates  the 
business  founded  about  1812  by  Silas  Hawes,  the  inventor  of  the 
steel  square,  and  here  is  also  one  of  the  largest  brush-handle 
factories  in  the  country. 

This  was  something  of  a  Tory  hotbed  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Revo- 
lution. One  of  the  parsons  was  admonished  by  two  hundred  lashes 
of  the  "Twigs  of  the  Wilderness"  to  cease  preaching  against  the  patriots. 
In  1805  slavery  in  Vermont  received  its  death  blow  when  a  Shaftsbury 
slave  owner  was  ordered  by  Judge  Theophilus  Harrington  to  show  a 
"Bill  of  Sale  for  his  slaves  from  the  Almighty  God." 

The  road  leads  on  uphill  through  the  village  of  Shaftsbury 
Center  (22.0).  To  the  left  at  the  foot  of  West  Mountain 
(2022  ft)  are  evidences  of  ancient  sea  beach;  on  the  right  are 
Hale  and  Trumbull  Mountains.  The  fishing  in  the  streams 
here  is  very  good.  After  crossing  a  ridge  and  the  town  line  the 
route  descends  the  Warm  Brook  valley,  crossing  and  recrossing 
the  Rutland  R.R.  Spruce  Peak  (3060  ft)  and  The  Ball  (2715 
ft)  rise  on  the  left. 

28.5  ARLINGTON  Alt  689  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1307.  Bennington  Co. 
Settled  1763  Mfg.  chairs,  refrigerators,  and  wooden  articles. 

The  Vermont  State  Seal  was  designed  from  a  sketch  of  the 
westward  view  from  Governor  Chittenden's  house.  The 
gorge  of  the  Battenkill  river  to  the  west  between  The  Ball  and 
Red  Mountain  (2869  ft)  permits  the  summer  sun  to  light  the 
town  for  an  hour  after  it  has  set  north  and  south  of  this  gap. 

Ethan  Allen,  the  Vermont  pioneer,  and  leader  of  the  Green 
Mountain  Boys,  lived  here  for  several  years,  collaborating  with 
Dr.  Young  on  an  agnostic  "Oracle  of  Man,"  much  akin  to 
Tom  Paine's  "Age  of  Reason,"  which  soon  after  appeared. 

A  mile  and  a  half  beyond  Arlington  the  road  forks  to  the 
left,  crossing  the  Battenkill,  which  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  best 
trout  streams  in  the  East.  The  route  then  passes  the  line  of 
Sunderland  township  and,  two  miles  beyond,  that  of  Man- 
chester. The  road  runs  along  the  loamy  slopes  of  Equinox 
Mountain  (3816  ft)  overlooking  the  fertile  intervales  and 
farms.  To  the  right  is  the  home  of  Robert  T.  Lincoln,  former 
president  of  the  Pullman  Company.  Close  by  is  the  Ekwanok 
Country  Club,  whose  famous  links  have  done  much  to  make 
Manchester  a  summer  halting  place.  To  the  left  is  the 


262  ARLINGTON— RUTLAND 

Equinox  House,  an  immense  club  of  a  hotel,  on  the  flanks  of 
the  mountain,  owned  by  the  same  family  for  a  century  and 
more.  Mrs.  Abraham  Lincoln  and  Mrs.  U.  S.  Grant  summered 
here  years  ago.  A  good  road  leads  past  the  hotel  and  the 
crowded  trout  pond  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  On  its 
southern  slope  is  Skinner's  Hollow,  a  defile  through  which  a 
mysterious  stream  disappears  without  visible  outlet;  nearby 
is  a  thirty-five-ton  rocking  stone.  From  the  crest  there  is  a 
view  that  extends  from  Greylock  and  the  Catskills  to  Monad- 
nock  and  the  White  Mountains,  including  also  Lake  George, 
Lake  Champlain,  and  the  Adirondacks.  The  name  of  Equinox 
is  apparently  derived  from  the  Indian  "  ekwanok"  rather  than 
from  any  climatic  considerations. 

36.S  MANCHESTER.  Alt  694  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2044.  Half  shire 
town  of  Bennington  Co. 

The  village  is  one  of  New  England's  favorite  summer  resorts, 
on  a  plateau  1000  feet  high.  Its  sidewalks  of  white  marble 
add  an  air  of  individuality  to  its  broad  main  street.  As  a  half 
shire  town  it  alternates  with  Bennington  in  sessions  of  the 
county  court.  There  are  many  summer  villas  and  residences. 

Route  19  from  Providence,  Worcester,  and  Brattleboro  to 
Fort  Ticonderoga,  and  Route  43  from  Claremont  to  Saratoga, 
pass  through  the  village. 


R.  5  §  4.     Manchester  to  Rutland.  34.5  m. 

From  Manchester  the  route  follows  the  short  cut  down 
Otter  Creek  through  the  marble  quarry  region. 

The  route  leaves  Manchester  by  the  right  fork  at  the  Library, 
and  the  middle  road  at  Manchester  Center  (0.5),  leaving  the 
Mettawee  valley  on  the  left.  The  road  follows  the  Rutland 
R.R.  across  the  town  line  and  through  the  hamlets  of  East 
and  North  Dorset.  The  local  white  marble  with  faint  green- 
ish and  brownish  lines  was  used  for  building  the  Harvard 
Medical  School,  the  New  York  Public  Library,  and  the  U.S. 
Senate  Office.  These  quarries  were  first  opened  in  1785. 
Edwin  Lefevre  is  one  of  a  group  of  summer  residents  here. 
To  the  west  is  Mt.  ^Eolus  (3436  ft),  in  whose  eastern  side  there 
is  a  series  of  caves  with  stalactites. 

Continuing  northward  the  road  crosses  into  Rutland  county 
and  Mt.  Tabor  township  between  the  steep  ridges  of  Green 
Peak  and  Netop  on  the  left  and  Peru  and  Mt.  Tabor  on  the 
right.  It  bears  left  across  the  Danby  line  into  the  village  of 

13.5     DANBY.     Alt  673  ft.     Pop  (twp)  1001.     Rutland  Co.     Settled 

1765.    Mfg.  marble,  lumber,  and  maple  sugar. 
This  is  an  important  maple  sugar  section.     There  are  several 


R.   5   §   S      RUTLAND   TO   BURLINGTON  263 

streams  that  abound  in  trout,  and  the  limestone  hills  contain 
several  caverns  to  tempt  the  venturesome  explorer. 

The  route  continues  down  the  valley  across  the  Wallingford 
line  through  South  Wallingford  (18.5)  into 

23.5  WALLINGFORD.  Alt  576  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1719.  Rutland  Co. 
Settled  1770.  Mfg.  agricultural  implements. 

The  White  Rocks  (marble  cliffs  to  the  east),  Crystal  Falls  (on 
a  small  stream  south  of  the  village) ,  and  The  Eyrie  and  The 
Ice  Beds  (craggy  glens  in  the  eastward  mountains)  are  of  in- 
terest to  leisurely  travelers. 

At  the  northern  end  of  the  village  the  route  turns  left  across 
R.R.  and  the  river  and  then  bears  right,  crossing  the  town- 
ship of  Clarendon.  Two  miles  beyond  the  Clarendon-Rutland 
town  line  and  at  the  fork  in  the  road  just  outside  Rutland  the 
route  turns  right  on  River  St.  and  crosses  river  and  R.R.  into 

34.5  RUTLAND.  Alt  562  ft.  Pop  13,546.  County -seat  of  Rutland 
Co.  Settled  1769.  "The  Marble  City."  Mfg.  marble, 
machinery,  scales,  dairy  utensils,  clay  and  asbestos  products, 
and  brooms. 

Rutland,  in  the  heart  of  the  largest  marble  region  in  the 
world,  is  the  second  city  in  the  State.  It  is  a  manufacturing 
center  with  a  diversity  of  industries.  The  Vermont  Marble 
Company,  employing  4000  men,  the  Howe  Scale  Works,  em- 
ploying 650  men,  and  the  F.  R.  Patch  Manufacturing  Com- 
pany, brass  founders,  are  leading  firms. 

There  are  golf  links  at  the  Rutland  Country  Club,  and  trout 
streams  in  the  nearby  hills.  Killington  Peak  (4241  ft),  to  the 
east,  is  a  starting  point  of  a  section  of  the  Green  Mountain 
Trail  (p  259). 

Rutland  was  an  outpost  in  the  Revolution,  with  a  blockhouse  called 
Fort  Ranger  on  the  military  road  from  Crown  Point  to  the  Connecticut 
river  (see  Springfield,  Vt.,  R.  10).  From  1784  to  1804  the  city  was 
one  of  the  capitals  of  the  State,  and  the  gambrel-roofed  State  House 
on  West  St.  is  one  of  the  oldest  buildings  in  Vermont,  erected  1784. 
The  Rutland  "Herald"  founded  as  a  weekly  in  1794,  is  still  published. 
The  marble  quarried  in  this  region  is  mostly  of  the  white  variety, 
harder  but  less  lustrous  than  the  celebrated  Carrara  stone  from  Italy. 
This  is  used  for  building;  the  darker  shades  in  blue,  green,  yellow, 
and  pink  are  employed  for  ornamental  purposes.  Three  quarters  of 
the  American  marble  is  quarried  in  Rutland  County. 

Route  33,  from  Boston  and  Bellows  Falls,  and  Route  44,  from 
White  River  Junction  and  Woodstock  to  Lake  George,  meet  here. 


R.  5  §  5.     Rutland  to  Burlington.  69.0  m. 

This  route  follows  the  valley  of  Otter  Creek  through  rolling 
country  from  the  Green  Mountains  to  Lake  Champlain  and 
Burlington.  The  road  is  a  trunk  line  State  Highway,  mostly 
good  gravel  with  stretches  of  macadam,  and  no  heavy  grades. 


264  RUTLAND— SALISBURY 

Leaving  Rutland  by  Main  St.,  the  route  takes  the  left  fork 
two  miles  out  of  town,  crossing  East  Creek,  which  flows  down 
from  Blue  Ridge  Mountain  (3293  ft),  through  the  village  of 
Mendon.  On  the  left  behind  Pine  Hill  (1445  ft)  is  the  town 
of  PKOCTOR  (pop  2756),  named  for  the  late  Senator,  first  suc- 
cessful organizer  of  the  marble  'industry  on  a  large  scale.  This 
town  boasts  the  largest  single  marble  quarry  and  the  greatest 
marble-working  plant  on  earth,  belonging  to  the  Vermont 
Marble  Company.  Power  is  obtained  from  the  1 23-foot  drop  of 
Sutherland  Falls.  At  the  end  of  the  road  in  Pittsford  Mills 
(7.7)  the  route  turns  right  and  then  left  at  once,  entering 

8.3     PITTSFORD.     Alt  525  ft.     Pop  (twp)  2479.     Settled  1769. 

Marble  and  marble  workers'  tools  are  the  main  products, 
and  asbestos  and  talc  are  found  here.  The  town  is  one  of 
several  named  in  honor  of  William  Pitt,  the  English  statesman, 
and  at  the  same  time  commemorates  the  Indian  ford. 

There  is  a  deep  ice-cave  in  the  eastern  section  of  the  town- 
ship. The  Vermont  State  Sanatorium  for  the  treatment  of 
incipient  tuberculosis  is  the  gift  of  the  late  Senator  Redfield 
Proctor,  founder  of  the  Vermont  Marble  Company.  Stone 
workers  were  especially  liable  to  this  disease  until  recently,  when 
methods  were  devised  to  keep  the  stone  dust  from  the  lungs. 

The  highway  leads  through  Pittsford,  and  bears  left  at  all 
forks.  Otter  Creek  and  the  R.R.  are  about  a  mile  to  the  left, 
and  Chaffee  Mountain  (2506  ft)  lifts  its  rounded  summits 
on  the  right.  Passing  the  Soldiers'  Monument  on  the  out- 
skirts of  Brandon  on  the  right,  the  route  turns  left  at  the  end 
of  the  street,  then  right,  taking  the  left  fork  in  the  center  of 
the  town,  and  the  right  on  Grove  St.  at  the  Stephen  A.  Douglas 
Monument. 

15.8  BRANDON.  Alt  416  ft.  Pop  1608.  Rutland  Co.  Settled  1772. 
Mfg.  marble,  mineral  paints,  fireplaces,  and  butter-tubs. 

The  double  row  of  shade  trees  on  Park  St.  is  the  chief  adorn- 
ment of  this  pleasant  Colonial  village.  Stephen  A.  Douglas, 
Lincoln's  oratorical  opponent  for  Congress,  Charles  Dana,  the 
builder  of  the  Erie  Railroad,  and  Frank  H.  Knowlton,  the 
botanist,  were  born  here,  and  another  resident  was  Thomas 
Davenport,  the  inventor  of  the  electric  motor,  who  first  ap- 
plied electricity  to  the  operation  of  railways  and  printing 
presses. 

Deposits  of  manganese,  magnetic  iron,  kaolin,  yellow  ocher, 
slate,  fossil  wood,  and  onyx  are  found  here.  Morgan  horses 
and  Ayrshire  cattle  are  bred  in  the  rich  meadows  of  the  inter- 
vales of  the  Neshobe  river  and  Otter  Creek.  Owing  to  the 
mineral  resources,  crops,  and  lumber,  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  the 
great  English  geologist,  said,  "I  have  yet  to  see,  either  in 


R.    5    §   5-      RUTLAND    TO    BURLINGTON  265 

Europe  or  America,  a  spot  containing  such  a  variety  of  unique 
and  valuable  substances  placed  by  nature  in  juxtaposition." 

There  are  two  caverns  and  an  ice-well  a  mile  and  a  half 
east  of  the  village.  To  the  east,  Mt.  Horrid  is  crossed  by  the 
Long  Trail.  Eight  miles  to  the  west  is  Sudbury,  in  the  lake 
district  of  Vermont.  The  Crown  Point  military  road  is  indi- 
cated by  markers. 

The  road  leads  straight  across  the  Addison  County  line, 
Leicester  township,  and  Leicester  hamlet  (21.5)  to  Salisbury 
through  a  more  open  country,  with  the  swamps  and  meadows  of 
Otter  Creek  on  the  left,  where  the  hills  give  way.  On  the 
right  is  a  long  ridge  at  the  foot  of  which  nestles  Fernville,  on 
the  edge  of  Fern  Lake,  a  diminutive  likeness  of  Lake  Dunmore. 

Note.  Just  beyond  the  Leicester-Salisbury  town  line,  at 
the  three  corners,  a  detour  leads  by  the  righthand  road  to 
Lake  Dunmore,  four  miles  long  and  one  mile  wide,  said  to  have 
been  christened  by  Lord  Dunmore  with  a  libation  of  wine  in 
Colonial  days.  A  good  road  has  been  made  round  the  edge  to 
the  further  side.  The  Liana  Falls,  a  series  of  beautiful  cas- 
cades, lead  the  waters  of  Silver  Lake,  670  feet  above  Lake 
Dunmore,  down  to  the  point  opposite  the  hotel  on  the  lake- 
side. A  half  mile  north,  near  the  road,  is  Ethan  Allen's  Cave, 
marked  by  an  inscription,  where  the  leader  of  the  Green 
Mountain  Boys,  with  twenty  of  his  followers,  is  said  to  have 
stood  off  a  regiment  of  the  enemy.  Another  cavern,  possibly 
used  by  the  hero,  has  been  recently  discovered  in  a  nearby 
cliff.  Rattlesnake  Point  (1900  ft),  once  an  Indian  lookout, 
is  a  spur  of  Mt.  Moosalamoo  (2659  ft),  which  rises  behind  it 
to  the  northeast.  Waramaug  Wigwam,  one  of  A.  S.  Gregg 
Clarke's  Keewaydin  camps,  is  situated  beside  the  lake  shore. 
Continuing  round  the  foot  of  Sunset  Hill,  the  detour  takes 
the  left  fork  three  quarters  of  a  mile  beyond  the  hotel,  and 
rejoins  the  main  highway  a  mile  and  a  half  beyond. 

Just  beyond  the  branch  road  to  Lake  Dunmore,  the  route 
takes  the  left  fork  in 

23.0     SALISBURY.     Alt  440  ft.    Pop  (twp)  693.    Addison  Co.    Settled 
1774.    Named  for  Salisbury,  Conn. 

Alluvial  deposits  along  the  river  and  the  clay  and  sand  loams 
of  the  slopes  have  made  farming  the  principal  industry,  with 
some  lumbering  in  the  woodland  tracts.  A  monument  erected 
by  the  Vermont  Society  of  Colonial  Dames  marks  the  site  of 
the  farm  of  Ann  Story,  whose  home  was  used  by  the  Green 
Mountain  Boys  as  a  refuge.  This  is  on  the  estate  of  the  late 
Columbus  Smith,  whose  large  fortune,  made  by  tracing  old 
English  estates  to  American  heirs,  was  bequeathed  for  the  sup- 
port of  elderly  people  on  this  property. 


266  SALISBURY— VERGENNES 

Three  miles  from  the  village  the  Lake  Dunmore  road  joins 
the  highway  from  the  right,  with  Mt.  Bryant  (1120  ft)  paral- 
leling the  route  in  a  long  ridge.  A  landmark  to  the  north  is 
the  spire  of  the  Mead  Memorial  Chapel  of  Middlebury  College. 

Note.  To  the  west  is  the  scattered  village  of  West  Salisbury,  and 
on  the  far  side  of  Cedar  Swamp  the  town  of  Cornwall,  whose  rich 
grass  has  made  it  rather  noted  for  fine  merino  sheep.  The  Rev. 
Henry  N.  Hudson,  the  Shakespearean  scholar,  was  a  native  of  the 
town.  The  Samson  Memorial,  a  D.A.R.  chapter  house  (1915),  con- 
tains the  town  library.  Near  the  church  is  a  Soldiers'  Monument  with 
the  eloquent  inscription,  "Cornwall  remembers."  Joseph  R.  Andrus, 
a  young  Cornwall  clergyman,  led  an  ill-fated  expedition  of  negroes  to 
Africa  for  the  American  Colonization  Society,  and  became  the  first 
American  martyr  to  the  anti-slavery  cause.  The  cave  in  the  river 
bank  in  which  the  Widow  Story  and  her  children  took  refuge  has 
been  marked  by  the  D.A.R. 

After  crossing  the  town  line  of  Middlebury  and  the  boister- 
ous little  Middlebury  river,  the  road  bears  to  the  left,  leaving 
East  Middlebury  half  a  mile  up  the  righthand  road,  to  Bread 
Loaf.  Following  the  left  fork,  a  half  mile  beyond,  it  soon  enters 

33.3  MIDDLEBURY.  Alt  366  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1866.  County-seat  of 
Addison  Co.  Settled  1766.  Mfg.  marble,  lime,  wood-pulp, 
window  sashes,  and  doors. 

The  village  is  chiefly  notable  as  the  home  of  Middlebury  Col- 
lege, established  1800,  one  of  the  smaller  New  England  insti- 
tutions of  learning.  The  drive  through  the  college  grounds 
from  the  South  St.  entrance  to  Porter  Athletic  Field  to  Pearsons 
Hall  is  nearly  a  mile.  From  the  latter  is  a  good  view  of  both 
Green  Mountains  and  Adirondacks.  Recent  growth  has 
caused  the  erection  of  several  new  buildings,  among  which  the 
Mead  Memorial  Chapel  and  the  Starr  Library  are  architectur- 
ally noteworthy.  The  chapel,  given  by  Ex-governor  Mead  of 
Rutland,  is  of  Vermont  marble,  in  the  New  England  meeting 
house  style,  with  a  portico  of  six  massive  marble  columns;  the 
graceful  spire  contains  a  chime  of  bells.  A  large  dormitory 
and  commons  for  men,  the  gift  of  A.  Barton  Hepburn  of 
New  York  City,  is  now  building.  Painter  Hall,  the  oldest 
college  building  in  Vermont,  is  a  good  example  of  early  New 
England  college  architecture. 

The  Sheldon  Art  Museum  has  a  good  collection  of  local  an- 
tiquities. The  grounds  of  the  Addison  County  Agricultural 
Society  are  extensive  and  the  buildings  good. 

Middlebury  contains  a  number  of  fine  old  Colonial  residences, 
shaded  by  large  elms.  One  of  the  best  is  opposite  the  hand- 
some Congregational  Church,  erected  by  Horatio  Seymour,  an 
early  U.S.  Senator  from  Vermont.  Another,  opposite  the 
High  School,  was  the  birthplace  of  Edward  J.  Phelps,  U.S. 
Minister  to  England  under  President  Cleveland.  The  mansion 


R.   5  §  5-     RUTLAND   TO   BURLINGTON  267 

of  Gamaliel  Painter,  principal  founder  of  the  village,  is  still 
standing  opposite  the  Court  House.  From  the  stone  bridge 
over  the  Otter  is  a  good  view  of  Middlebury  Falls,  one  of  the 
largest  on  the  stream. 

From  Middlebury  the  lefthand  road  leads  to  Chimney  Point 
and  thence  to  Point  Henry,  N.Y.  (16.0),  crossing  Lake 
Champlain  by  ferry  (automobile  65  cts,  passengers  15  cts). 

Inventive  genius  has  flourished  here,  though  with  but  slight  financial 
profit,  producing  a  circular  saw,  a  wool-picking  machine,  and  methods 
of  welding  cast  steel  and  of  sawing  marble  and  of  making  window 
sashes.  Emma  Willard,  a  pioneer  in  woman's  higher  education,  estab- 
lished here  her  famous  school,  later  moved  to  Troy,  N.Y. 

It  was  from  the  scenery  and  historical  traditions  about  Middlebury 
that  Daniel  P.  Thompson,  when  a  student  in  Middlebury  College, 
drew  his  information  and  inspiration  for  the  classic  Vermont  story, 
"The  Green  Mountain  Boys." 

Bread  Loaf  Mountain  (3900  ft)  is  reached  by  the  road  up  the  gorge 
of  Middlebury  River,  and  is  highly  praised  for  its  scenery.  Bread 
Loaf  Inn  is  near  the  summit  of  the  pass  over  the  Green  Mountains, 
nine  miles  from  Middlebury.  The  late  Joseph  Battell,  once  the 
largest  individual  land  owner  in  Vermont,  left  Bread  Loaf  Inn  and 
Mountain  and  20,000  acres  of  forest  land  to  Middlebury  College,  and 
Camels  Hump  to  the  State.  He  also  did  much  to  recover  the  all  but 
lost  strain  of  the  Morgan  horse. 

Turning  to  the  left  on  Washington  St.  and  then  to  the  right 
on  Pleasant  St.,  the  route  climbs  part  way  up  Chipman  Hill, 
a  shapely  kame,  from  the  top  of  which  there  is  an  extensive 
view  of  the  Green  Mountain  range  and  the  Adirondacks,  in- 
cluding Mt.  Marcy  (5304  ft).  The  road  dips  through  the 
hamlet  of  Brooksville  (37.5)  to  cross  the  New  Haven  river.  A 
mile  and  a  half  northwest  from  Middlebury  village,  in  the  town 
of  Weybridge,  is  the  U.S.  horse  breeding  farm,  with  about 
seventy  horses,  including  eight  or  more  of  the  finest  Morgan 
stallions.  The  farm  is  the  gift  of  the  late  Joseph  Battell.  To 
the  left  of  the  crossroads,  one  mile  and  a  half  beyond  Brooks- 
ville, is  the  Spring  Grove  Camp  Ground,  where  Methodist 
camp-meetings  are  held  in  July  and  August.  The  route  con- 
tinues straight  on,  following  the  left  fork,  one  mile  further,  and 
crossing  R.R.  at  New  Haven  Junction.  Five  and  a  half  miles 
to  the  east  is  Bristol,  in  the  mouth  of  the  New  Haven  Notch,  a 
gap  between  South  Mountain  (2307  ft)  and  Hogback  Mountain 
(2290  ft),  the  principal  summit  of  the  lengthy  Hogback  Ridge. 
Lincoln  Mountain  (4078  ft)  rears  its  three  peaks  against  the 
skyline.  Bearing  left  at  the  fork  one  mile  beyond  the  Junction 
the  highway  gradually  swings  round  westward  to 

46.0     VERGENNES.     Alt  176  ft.     Pop  1483.     Addison  Co.     Settled 
1766.     Mfg.   lumber,  flour,   screw   machine  products,   and 
shade  rollers. 
This  is  one  of  the  smallest  as  well  as  one  of  the  oldest  cities 

in  the  nation.     It  is  situated  on  Otter  Creek  at  the  head  of 


268  VERGENNES— BURLINGTON 


navigation,  on  a  "patch  clipped  from  the  adjoining  towns." 
The  falls  of  the  river  here  total  37  feet,  providing  power 
for  this  city  and  for  Burlington.  It  was  named,  through 
Ethan  Allen's  influence,  in  honor  of  the  statesman  Count 
Vergennes,  as  a  compliment  to  France,  the  friend  of  the  strug- 
gling republic.  Basin  Harbor,  eight  miles  west  on  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  is  a  popular  summer  resort. 

At  the  mouth  of  Otter  Creek  are  the  ruins  of  Fort  (^assin, 
which  was  erected  to  protect  the  building  of  Commodore  Mac- 
donough's  fleet  in  1814.  Forty  days  from  the  time  that  the 
trees  were  standing  in  the  forests  they  were  launched  on  Lake 
Champlain  in  the  form  of  the  "Saratoga,"  the  Commodore's 
flagship.  Meanwhile  the  soldiers  at  Fort  Cassin  had  stood  off 
the  enemy,  and  a  few  months  later,  on  Sept.  n,  1814,  Mac- 
donough  defeated  the  enemy  conclusively  off  Plattsburg. 
"This  little  peninsula  ...  is  now  classic  in  geologic  literature 
from  the  number  and  character  of  the  fossils  found  in  the  rocky 
deposits." 

Leaving  by  Main  St.,  the  road  crosses  the  city  line  and  keeps 
to  the  left  at  the  fork  one  mile  and  a  quarter  outside  the  city 
and  passes  through  Ferrisburg  (49.0),  the  home  of  Rowland 
Robinson,  one  of  the  best  writers  in  the  old  Vermont  dialect. 
The  country  is  open  and  tillable,  and  a  quarry  of  black  marble 
lies  in  the  northeast  part  of  the  township.  The  route  takes  the 
right  fork  one  mile  beyond  the  village  and  continues  straight 
through  the  crossroads,  leaving  North  Ferrisburg  on  the  right. 
Half  a  mile  beyond  is  the  line  between  Addison  and  Chittenden 
Counties,  formerly  the  boundary  between  Canada  and  New 
York.  Upon  the  point  across  the  lake  is  Split  Rock,  the 
ancient  bounds  marker  separating  the  Mohawks  and  the 
Algonquins. 

A  mile  to  the  east  is  Mt.  Philo  (1017  ft),  formerly  an  Indian 
signal  station  and  now  a  popular  resort,  with  a  road  to  the 
summit  and  a  fifty-foot  observation  tower,  from  which  there  is 
a  grand  view  of  Lake  Champlain,  the  Adirondacks,  and  the 
Green  Mountains.  Swinging  to  the  right  (57.0),  between 
Pease  Mountain  and  Jones  Hill,  the  highway  runs  through  a 
corner  of  the  straggling  hamlet  of  Charlotte  and  turns  left  up 
the  slight  ascent  of  Mutton  Hill.  Camels  Hump  (4088  ft) 
comes  into  sight  in  the  east.  The  lefthand  road  at  this  point 
leads  to  the  McNeil  ferry,  crossing  Lake  Champlain  to  Essex, 
N.Y.  (7.0). 

Note.  To  the  west  is  the  town  of  Charlotte,  the  site  of 
Horsford's  Nurseries,  famous  for  hardy  plants.  This  is  one  of 
the  finest  apple  regions  to  be  found.  In  flavor  as  well  as  in 
size  the  fruit  raised  in  this  valley  wins  medals  and  prizes 


R.    5   §   5.      RUTLAND    TO    BURLINGTON  269 

wherever  it  goes.  One  orchard  of  100  acres,  that  of  Mr.  C.  T. 
Holmes,  in  a  recent  year  produced  6000  barrels  which  sold  for 
more  than  $20,000. 

62.0     SHELBURNE.     Alt  159  ft.    Pop  (twp)  1097.     Settled  1768. 

Shelburne  Farms,  Dr.  W.  Seward  Webb's  handsome  estate, 
west  of  the  village,  on  the  lake  shore,  is  open  to  visitors.  Byron 
S.  Hurlbut,  Dean  of  Harvard  College,  is  a  native  of  the  town. 

The  macadam  road  leads  across  the  Laplatte  river  and  along 
the  lake  shore  past  several  summer  residences.  The  richness 
of  the  countryside  is  evidenced  by  the  dairy  farms  and  market 
gardens.  Two  miles  beyond  the  South  Burlington  line  is 
Queen  City  Park  (66.5),  a  summer  settlement,  to  the  west  of 
which  is  Red  Rocks,  a  75-acre  park  of  great  beauty  on  a 
high,  wooded  bluff  overlooking  the  lake.  By  the  kindness 
of  its  owner,  Mr.  E.  P.  Hatch,  it  is  open  to  the  public,  but 
automobiles  are  excluded.  The  Rocks  are  an  outcrop  of  red 
sandrock  such  as  is  frequent  on  this  shore  of  the  lake.  On 
the  right  are  the  links  of  the  Waubanakee  Golf  Club. 

69.0  BURLINGTON.  Alt  208  ft  (City  Hall).  Pop  20,468;  of  which 
one  fifth  is  foreign-born.  County -seat  of  Chittenden  Co. 
Settled  1774.  "The  Queen  City  of  Vermont."  Port  of 
Entry,  on  Lake  Champlain  and  the  Winooski  river.  Mfg. 
planing  and  wood-working  products,  cotton  and  woolen 
goods,  package  dyes,  patent  medicines,  and  maple  syrup  and 
sugar.  Capital,  $6,460,000;  Payroll,  $1,337,000.  Steamers 
daily,  in  season,  to  lake  ports. 

Burlington  is  happily  situated  on  a  hillside  overlooking 
Champlain  and  the  Adirondacks  to  the  west  and  Mt.  Mansfield 
and  Camels  Hump  in  the  Green  Mountains  to  the  east.  The 
largest  city  and  manufacturing  center  in  the  State,  it  is  likewise 
a  wholesale  distributing  point  and  one  of  the  chief  markets  for 
Canadian  lumber.  The  Winooski  river  supplies  waterpower. 
The  Champlain  Canal,  connecting  with  the  Hudson,  and  the 
Chambly  Canal,  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  provide  water  car- 
riage for  freight  from  both  the  north  and  south.  Burlington 
is  the  home  of  the  University  of  Vermont  and  State  Agri- 
cultural College.  The  most  popular  sports  are  ice-boating 
and  yachting.  The  temperate  climate  in  the  summer  attracts 
many  visitors.  It  is  one  of  the  cleanest  and  best  kept  cities 
in  the  country. 

In  City  Hall  Park  at  the  corner  of  Main  and  St.  Paul  Sts. 
is  the  City  Hall,  and  diagonally  opposite  on  Church  St.  are 
the  Post  Office,  the  County  Court  House,  and  the  State 
Laboratory  of  Hygiene.  At  the  foot  of  College  St.  is  the 
$20,000  club  house  of  the  Lake  Champlain  Yacht  Club,  the 
most  important  on  the  lake.  Two  blocks  north,  at  the  corner 
of  St.  Paul  and  Bank  Sts.,  is  St.  Paul's  Church.  At  the  next 


270  BURLINGTON 

corner,  St.  Paul  and  Cherry  Sts.,  is  the  Roman  Catholic 
Cathedral.  At  the  foot  of  Pearl  St.,  one  block  further  north, 
is  the  Battery  Park,  from  which  there  is  an  excellent  view  of 
the  industrial  section  of  the  city,  as  well  as  of  the  harbor  and 
the  western  shore.  It  consists  of  nine  acres  on  a  high  bluff, 
bought  by  the  U.S.  government  in  1812  and  used  as  a  camp- 
ground. Some  10,000  soldiers  and  a  battery  of  thirteen  guns 
were  stationed  there.  A  tablet  on  a  boulder  near  the  southern 
entrance  commemorates  the  repulse  of  the  British  attack, 
June  13,  1813.  Owing  to  the  successive  British  defeats  on 
Lake  Champlain,  of  which  this  was  not  the  least  important,  it 
is  said  that  Lake  Champlain  surpasses  in  historic  importance 
any  other  body  of  water  in  the  western  hemisphere. 

A  mile  down  the  harbor  is  the  low-lying  islet  Rock  Dunder, 
an  Indian  boundary  mark  separating  the  Six  Nations  from  the 
Algonquins  and  Canadians.  Legend  has  it  that  a  pot-valiant 
Dutch  commander  mistook  it  for  a  French  sloop-of-war  and 
blazed  away  at  it  for  some  hours,  and  on  discovering  his  error 
exclaimed,  "It's  a  rock,  by  dunder!" 

Nos.  21  and  25  Pearl  St.  were  officers'  quarters  in  the  War 
of  1812,  and  No.  21  was  later  the  home  of  Mrs.  Louisa  Heyde, 
sister  of  the  poet  Walt  Whitman.  On  the  northeast  corner  of 
Pearl  St.  and  Elmwood  Ave.  is  the  Unitarian  Church  (1816). 
At  the  head  of  Pearl  St.  by  the  College  Green  is  No.  2  Col- 
chester Ave.,  the  oldest  wooden  house  in  the  city  (1790); 
beside  it  is  the  Medical  Building  of  the  University. 

The  College  Green,  some  ten  acres  in  extent,  is  a  part  of  the 
original  gift  of  Ira  Allen,  the  principal  founder  of  the  Uni- 
versity (1791).  The  first  brick  building  on  the  left,  opposite 
the  Green,  is  the  President's  house,  next  which  is  the  Billings 
Library,  a  Romanesque  sandstone  structure  by  Richardson, 
who  considered  it  his  finest  work.  It  contains  100,000  vol- 
umes, including  the  remarkable  Scandinavian  library  of  the 
late  George  P.  Marsh,  the  Norse  scholar.  To  the  east  is  the 
Museum,  with  a  large  archeological  collection  and  the  fine 
Cannon  oriental  collection,  of  considerable  value  and  interest. 
South  of  the  Library  is  Williams  Science  Hall,  in  which  the 
Pringle  herbarium  of  nearly  100,000  specimens  is  almost 
unique,  representing  all  the  known  flora  of  North  America. 
Eastward  is  Converse  Hall,  a  dormitory  of  Rutland  marble. 
The  view  from  the  cupola  of  the  main  building,  nicknamed 
'Old  Mill'  by  the  students,  confirms  the  opinion  of  Edward 
Everett  Hale,  that  "so  far  as  Nature  has  anything  to  offer  to 
the  eye,  I  had  certainly  never  seen,  in  the  travels  of  forty  years, 
any  position  chosen  for  a  city  more  likely  to  impress  a  traveler 
as  remarkable  and  to  live  always  in  his  memory."  In  front 


R.    5   §  5-     RUTLAND   TO   BURLINGTON  271 

of  this  building,  on  the  Green,  is  a  statue  of  Lafayette  by 
J.  Q.  A.  Ward,  in  memory  of  his  laying  the  cornerstone  of 
South  College,  formerly  on  this  site.  Merrill  Hall  is  the  home 
of  the  Agricultural  College'.  Grass  Mount,  the  girls'  dormi- 
tory, on  the  corner  of  Main  and  Summit  Sts.,  is  the  best 
example  of  Colonial  architecture  in  the  city.  It  was  built  in 
1804  and  for  a  time  was  the  home  of  Governor  Van  Ness,  later 
U.S.  Minister  to  Spain.  Nearby  are  several  fraternity  houses. 

Southward  along  South  Prospect  St.,  past  the  University, 
there  is  a  splendid  outlook  upon  the  Green  Mountains  from  a 
point  just  beyond  Cliff  St.  On  a  knoll  in  the  foreground  and 
slightly  to  the  southeast  is  Fairholt,  the  summer  home  of 
Dr.  Henry  Holt,  the  New  York  publisher.  Continuing  along 
South  Prospect  St.  a  few  hundred  yards  and  turning  to  the 
right,  the  road  leads  to  Overledge  Outlook,  from  which  the 
Champlain  valley,  45  townships  and  more  than  70  Adirondack 
peaks  are  visible;  the  highest  is  Mt.  Tahawus  (5344  ft).  The 
return  to  the  city  follows  South  Willard  St.,  the  first  street  to 
the  right  below  the  Outlook,  and  turns  left  on  College  St., 
with  its  arching  elms,  passing  the  Carnegie  Library  at  the 
corner  of  Winooski  Ave. 

Ethan  Allen  Park,  or  Indian  Rock,  Ethan  Allen's  last  home, 
lies  one  mile  and  a  half  out  of  town,  on  North  Ave.  Shortly 
beyond  Battery  Park  are  Dr.  Berry's  Sanitarium,  the  Provi- 
dence Orphan  Asylum,  and  Lake  View  Cemetery.  Not  far 
to  the  north  a  road  westward  leads  to  Bishop  Hopkins  Hall,  a 
school  for  girls,  and  Sunset  Cliff,  a  high  bluff  with  a  command- 
ing prospect  of  lake  and  countryside.  Half  a  mile  further 
along  North  Ave.  is  the  entrance  to  Ethan  Allen's  farm, 
between  the  road  and  the  Winooski  river  at  the  foot  of  a  tower- 
crowned  cliff  of  red  sandrock.  This  plot  of  twelve  acres  is 
preserved  as  a  memorial  to  the  leader  of  the  Green  Mountain 
Boys.  Tradition  makes  the  rock  a  lookout  station  used  by 
the  natives  watching  for  their  enemies.  Fort  Ethan  Allen 
(R.  47)  is  five  miles  east. 

The  first  settlement  at  Burlington  was  made  in  1774,  but  the  town 
was  abandoned  from  early  in  the  Revolution  until  after  peace  was  de- 
clared. Its  name  seems  to  be  taken  from  the  Burling  family  of  New 
York  State,  who  were  among  the  grantees  of  several  Vermont  towns. 
Much  of  the  land  in  this  region  was  owned  by  Ethan  and  Ira  Allen. 
The  former  is  buried  in  Green  Mount  Cemetery,  on  the  hillcrest  east 
of  the  city,  overlooking  the  Winooski.  His  grave  is  marked  by  a 
Tuscan  shaft  and  a  statue  of  the  hero,  erected  by  the  State  of  Ver- 
mont. Through  the  blustering  energy  of  these  brothers,  Vermont  was 
mainly  able  to  force  her  recognition  as  an  independent  State  after  the 
Revolution,  partly  by  threatening  to  join  Canada.  Vermont  remained 
a  separate  republic  until  1791,  so  that  Ethan  was  never  a  citizen  of 
the  United  States  (d.  1789).  Ira,  his  brother,  by  far  the  most  opulent 
landholder  of  the  region,  was  captured  and  held  by  the  British  after 


272  BURLINGTON— NORTH   HERO 

the  close  of  the  Revolution;  the  charge  against  him  being  that  arms 
which  he  claimed  to  have  bought  from  the  French  for  the  use  of  Ver- 
mont were  intended  for  the  Irish  rebels.  During  his  captivity  his 
property  at  home  was  seized  through  tax  laws,  and  on  his  liberation 
he  had  to  flee  from  imprisonment  for  d"ebt  in  Vermont  to  Philadelphia, 
where  his  ungrateful  commonwealth  allowed  him  to  die  a  pauper. 
In  1808  the  steamboat  "Vermont,"  only  eight  months  younger  than 
the  "Clermont,"  was  launched  at  Burlington  and  became  the  world's 
second  steam  craft  to  win  success. 

The  lumber  market  at  Burlington  has  long  been  important.  The 
Shepard  &  Morse  Lumber  Company,  J.  R.  Booth,  and  the  Robinson- 
Edwards  Company  are  among  the  principal  firms.  Another  large  firm 
is  Wells,  Richardson  &  Co.,  which  manufactures  butter  coloring  and 
package  dyes  for  world-wide  distribution,  as  well  as  proprietary  medi- 
cines, infant  food,  and  cereal  milk.  The  G.  S.  Blodgett  Company 
makes  portable  ovens  in  larger  quantities  than  any  other  American 
firm.  Maple  sugar  is  handled  by  Welch  Brothers,  and  cotton  goods  are 
made  by  the  Chace  Mill  and  the  Queen  City  Cotton  Company. 

LAKE  CHAMPLAIN  is  130  miles  long,  with  a  maximum  width 
of  ii  miles,  and  lies  between  the  States  of  Vermont  and  New  York, 
with  a  slight  projection  into  Canada,  at  an  elevation  of  96  feet  above 
sea  level.  The  maximum  depth  is  about  400  feet.  Its  outlet  is  the 
Richelieu  river,  flowing  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  Lake  George,  to 
the  south,  is  a  tributary,  and  the  Champlain  Canal  (63.0)  connects 
it  with  the  Hudson.  Salmon,  salmon-trout,  and  even  sturgeon  are 
found  here. 

Points  of  interest  in  addition  to  those  on  this  route  are:  Ticonderoga 
(R.  19)  and  Crown  Point,  French  forts  seized  by  the  British  in  1759, 
by  the  Americans  in  1775,  and  abandoned  to  the  British  again  in  1777. 
Split  Rock  (p  268)  and  Ausable  Chasm  are  natural  curiosities,  the 
latter  a  gorge  of  great  beauty.  Plattsburg  and  Fort  Kent  are  points 
of  entrance  to  the  Adirondack  region.  Seven  miles  north  of  Burling- 
ton is  Malletts  Bay,  a  landlocked  inlet  whose  beautiful  shores  are 
the  haunt  of  summer  colonists  and  of  several  camps  conducted  by 
preparatory  schools,  such  as  Camps  Iroquois  and  Champlain,  for  boys, 
and  Camps  Barnard  and  Winnahkee,  for  girls.  Three  miles  further 
north  is  Winnisquam  Bay,  another  charming  inlet,  where  Camp 
Winnisquam  is  located.  St.  Albans  Bay  and  Missisquoi  Bay  are 
wilder  spots  on  the  upper  reaches  of  the  lake.  Nearly  all  these 
places  are  reached  by  steamboat  from  Burlington. 


R.  5  §  6.     Burlington  to  Montreal.  99.0  m. 

This  route  traverses  the  islands  at  the  head  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain  and  leads  through  a  sparsely  settled  country  to  Montreal. 
The  road  is  good  gravel  to  the  Canadian  line,  and  the  macadam 
of  the  King  Edward  Highway  from  there  on. 

An  alternate  route  leads  by  way  of  St.  Albans,  Swanton, 
St.  Johns,  and  Chambly.  The  latter  half  is  fair  clay,  not 
feasible  in  wet  weather. 

Leaving  Burlington  by  Pearl  St.  and  Colchester  Ave.,  cross 
the  river  and  the  city  line  into  Colchester  township. 


R.   5   §  6.     BURLINGTON  TO   MONTREAL  273 

3.0     WINOOSKI.     Alt  190  ft.    Pop  4520.      Chittenden  Co.     Settled 

1774.    Mfg.  woolens,  brick,  and  screens. 

This  is  an  industrial  village  at  the  falls  of  the  Winooski,  near 
which  the  American  Woolen  Company's  mills  are  prominent. 
Following  Main  St.  the  road  climbs  a  hill  and  leads  straight 
on  through  two  crossroads.  The  lefthand  roads  lead  west- 
ward to  Malletts  Bay.  To  the  right  is  the  village  of  Cok 
Chester  Center.  The  road  crosses  several  brooks,  takes  the 
left  fork  (n.o),  and  continues  to  bear  left  for  two  miles.  After 
going  straight  through  the  crossroads  near  the  hamlet  of 
Champlain  (13.0),  it  crosses  an  iron  bridge  and  the  town  line 
of  Milton,  bending  left  and  crossing  Sand  Bar  Bridge,  a  long, 
narrow  structure,  to  Grand  Isle.  The  Grand  Isle  County  line 
is  midway  between  the  mainland  and  the  island. 

21.0  SOUTH  HERO.  Alt  112  ft.  Pop  (twp)  60S.  Grand  Isle  Co. 
Settled  1784. 

The  town  was  named  in  honor  of  Ira  Allen.  The  soil  is 
loamy,  producing  excellent  fruit,  and  the  quiet  charm  of  the 
countryside  and  lake  shore  brings  many  summer  visitors. 
The  rocks  and  cliffs  that  line  the  shore  show  curiously  twisted 
and  wrenched  strata. 

Turning  to  the  right  the  road  skirts  the  shore  of  Keeler's 
Bay,  crosses  the  town  line,  and  goes  straight  through  the  village 
of  Grand  Isle  (26.0). 

On  the  western  shore  of  the  lake  is  Plattsburg,  N.Y.,  a 
garrison  town,  where  the  business  men's  summer  military 
training  camp  is  located.  In  the  waters  to  the  south  was 
fought  the  Battle  of  Plattsburg.  The  lefthand  road  leads  to 
the  Plattsburg  ferry  (8.0). 

The  road  leads  on  across  a  long  bridge  to  North  Hero 
Island,  a  separate  township,  named  in  ,Ethan  Allen's  honor. 
It  is  more  level  than  Grand  Isle,  and  equally  attractive. 
Several  summer  camps  are  situated  on  these  islands. 

34.0  NORTH  HERO.  Alt  116  ft.  Pop  (twp)  476.  County-seat  of 
Grand  Isle  Co.  Settled  1783. 

Leaving  the  village  the  road  crosses  a  narrow  isthmus,  over 
which  the  Indians  carried  their  canoes,  thereby  shortening  the 
trip  across  the  lake.  To  the  left  is  Pelois  Bay,  at  the  northern 
end  of  which  is  Dutchmans  Point,  where  the  British  main- 
tained a  blockhouse  for  thirteen  years  after  the  Revolution. 
Two  miles  beyond  the  bay,  turn  left  across  the  island.  The 
road  now  crosses  the  channel  of  Alburg  Passage,  reaching  the 
mainland  again  in  Alburg  township,  and  heads  north. 

Note.  The  lefthand  road  (42.0)  leads  to  Isle  la  Motte, 
visited  by  Champlain  in  1609.  Here  the  Sieur  de  la  Motte 
built  Fort  Ste.  Anne  in  1666,  the  furthermost  of  the  chain  of 


274  NORTH  HERO— MONTREAL 

strongholds  erected  as  the  French  base  of  defense  from  the 
Indians,  or  for  attack  on  the  colonies  of  Britain.  General  Mont- 
gomery made  his  headquarters  here  in  1775  on  his  expedition 
against  Canada,  and  the  British  fleet  stopped  at  this  point  before 
going  to  their  final  defeat  at  Plattsburg  in  1814.  A  Roman 
Catholic  shrine  marks  the  site  of  the  chapel  of  the  old  French 
fort.  Black  marble  is  quarried  here,  and  building  stone  used  in 
the  Brooklyn  Bridge,  and  in  the  Victoria  Bridge  at  Montreal. 
A  ferry  runs  from  the  island  to  Chazy  Landing,  N.Y. 

48.0    ALBURG.    Alt  100  ft.    Pop  (twp)  1311.    Grand  Isle  Co.    Settled 
by  the  French,  1731;   by  the  English,  1782. 

Alburg  is  on  the  northwest  border  of  Vermont.  The  French 
made  a  temporary  settlement  on  Windmill  Point,  but  it  soon 
came  into  the  hands  of  Ira  Allen,  for  whom  the  town  is  named. 
In  the  days  when  mineral  springs  were  popular,  Alburg  was  a 
thriving  resort. 

Following  the  lake  shore  to  West  Alburg,  the  motor  ferry 
transfers  travelers  to  Rouse's  Point,  N.Y.  (51.5).  (Toll,  driver 
and  car,  $i;  passengers,  15  cts.) 

Two  miles  north  of  the  ferry,  off  the  New  York  shore,  is  Fort 
Montgomery,  a  picturesque  spot,  sometimes  known  as  '  Fort 
Blunder '  because  the  American  government  discovered  that 
it  had  been  erected  on  Canadian  soil  and  had  to  purchase  the 
site  from  Great  Britain. 

Still  heading  northward,  the  road  crosses  the  Canadian 
frontier,  where  a  bond  must  be  filed  by  motorists  entering  for 
pleasure  purposes  for  a  sojourn  of  not  more  than  six  months. 

From  this  point  the  route  follows  the  new  King  Edward 
Highway,  which  has  a  thorough  macadam  construction.  This 
country  is  the  southern  border  of  the  arable  St.  Lawrence 
plain,  inhabited  by  French  Canadians.  The  population  is 
sparse,  and  the  road  passes  through  only  four  inconsiderable 
villages:  Lacolle  (61.0),  Napierville  (69.0),  Douglastown  (84.0), 
and  Laprairie  (90.0). 
99.0  MONTREAL. 


R.  6.     NORWALK  to  TORRINGTON.  63.0  m. 

Via  D ANBURY  and  LITCHFIELD. 

This  route  follows  the  valley  of  the  Norwalk  river  north- 
ward to  Branchville,  thence  crosses  the  hills  to  Danbury, 
whence  it  follows  the  valley  of  Still  River  into  the  Housatonic 
valley  at  New  Milford.  Thence  it  ascends  the  valley  of  the 
East  Aspetuck  river  high  into  the  Litchfield  hills  to  the  beauti- 
ful old  town  of  Litchfield. 

Leaving  Norwalk  by  Main  St.  with  the  trolley  at  the  fork, 
bear  left  on  Main  Ave.  The  State  Road,  clearly  marked  by 
blue  bands  on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts,  follows  the 
valley  of  the  Norwalk  river. 

6.0     WILTON.    Alt  186  ft.    Pop  (twp)  1706.    Fairfield  Co. 

The  old  academy  at  Wilton,  founded  in  1817,  became 
famous  under  the  Olmsteads.  The  road  continues  up  the 
valley  through  the  village  of  Branchville  (11.4). 

Note.  Three  miles  to  the  east  lies  Ridgefield,  a  fine  old 
town  with  an  attractive  main  street.  In  the  beautiful  country 
surrounding  it  are  many  fine  residential  estates  of  New  York 
people,  including  Casagmo,  the  estate  of  George  M.  Olcott, 
Wild  Farms  on  West  Lane,  formerly  the  home  of  the  Hon. 
Mahlbert  B.  Carey,  and  Grove  Lawn,  the  residence  of  the 
Hon.  Phineas  C.  Lounsbury,  former  Governor  of  Connecticut. 
There  are  some  fine  old  houses  in  the  village,  including  the 
'Peter  Parley,'  built  in  1797  by  Peter's  father,  the  Rev.  Samuel 
Goodrich,  and  the  'Cannon-Ball'  house,  the  home  of  Cass 
Gilbert,  the  architect;  in  its  wall  is  a  shot  fired  from  a  British 
fieldpiece  in  a  skirmish  here.  A  tamarack  tree  near  the  vil- 
lage is  pointed  out  as  the  spot  where  Benedict  Arnold's  horse 
was  shot  under  him  in  1777  during  the  battle  with  the  British. 
A  mile  or  more  to  the  north  is  the  Ridgefield  School  for  Boys. 

Four  miles  northwest  of  Branchville  are  Redding  and  Redding 
Ridge,  another  center  of  fine  estates,  and  the  former  home  of 
Mark  Twain.  Here  is  located  the  Sanford  School  for  Boys. 

The  highway,  marked  by  blue  bands,  follows  in  general  the 
course  of  the  river  through  Sanford  and  West  Redding,  and 
enters  on  Park  Ave.  into 

22.5     DANBURY   (R.  3,  p  206). 

From  Danbury  proceed  north  on  Main  St.  following  the 
blue  bands  along  the  valley  of  the  Still  river. 

30.5     BROOKFIELD.     Alt  285  ft.     Pop   (twp)  1101.     Fair  field  Co. 

Mfg.  shears  and  steel  dies. 

The  highway  follows  the  valley  of  the  Still  river  into  the 
Housatonic,  passing  Lanesville  and  crossing  the  Housatonic  on 
a  long  iron  bridge. 

(275) 


2 76  NEW   MILFORD— LITCHFIELD 

38.0  NEW  MILFORD.  Alt  340  ft.  Pop  (twp)  5010.  Litchfield  Co. 
Settled  1702.  Mfg.  hats,  silica  paints,  tobacco  binders, 
upholstery,  gold,  silver,  and  plated  ware,  and  rolled  steel. 

New  Milford  is  a  beautiful  riverside  village.  In  the  midst 
of  a  tobacco-growing  region  it  is  a  center  of  the  tobacco  trade. 
This  was  the  headquarters  of  the  Indians  of  western  Con- 
necticut and  the  chief  seat  of  the  Great  Sachem  Waramaug. 
The  first  settlers  came  from  Stratford  and  bought  these  lands 
of  Wigantenock,  an  Indian  chief.  In  1702  Milford  bought 
these  same  lands  of  other  Indians.  The  town  was  incorpo- 
rated in  1712  as  New  Milford.  The  Canterbury  School,  R.C., 
has  recently  been  located  here. 

The  route  now  leaves  the  Housatonic  and  follows  the  valley 
of  the  East  Aspetuck  river  through  the  villages  of  Northville 
(42.5)  and  Marbledale  (44.5)  to 

45.5  NEW  PRESTON.  Alt  510  ft.  Pop  (Washington  twp)  1747. 
Litchfield  Co. 

Just  to  the  north  lies  Lake  Waramaug,  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water  five  miles  long  with  a  woody  level  road  skirting  its 
shores.  Above  it  rise  the  wooded  slopes  of  Pinnacle  and 
Tower  Mountains  (1200  ft).  Three  miles  to  the  southeast  at 
Washington  are  the  Gunnery  School  for  Boys,  and  Wykeham 
Rise,  a  fashionable  school  for  girls. 

The  route  follows  the  blue  markers  beside  Bee  Brook  through 
Woodville  in  the  valley  of  the  Shepaug  river,  and  ascends 
through  Bantam  (53.7),  a  quaint  little  village  on  the  Bantam 
river,  whose  falls  furnish  waterpower.  Bantam  Lake,  five 
miles  in  length,  is  the  largest  sheet  of  water  in  Connecticut. 
The  name  is  derived  from  the  Indian  Peantum,  "he  prays." 
On  the  wooded  shores  of  the  lake  are  Chinqueka  Camp  for 
Girls  and  Camp  Wonponset  for  Boys.  North  of  Bantam  is 
Mt.  Prospect  (1365  ft),  at  the  base  of  which  there  is  a  vein  of 
pyrrhotite  with  small  quantities  of  nickel  and  copper. 

57.5     LITCHFIELD.    Alt  956  ft.    Pop  903.    Litchfield  Co. 

Litchfield  is  one  of  the  most  charming  villages  in  New 
England.  The  beauty  of  its  location,  its  quiet  and  seclusion, 
its  former  historic  importance  and  literary  associations,  "  throw 
over  it  a  glamour  of  old  romance  and  antiquarian  splendor." 
Its  broad  streets  are  lined  with  old  elms  and  well-kept  Colonial 
dwellings  which  have  a  dignity  and  grace  of  architecture  in 
keeping  with  the  town's  past  social  and  intellectual  importance. 

The  old  mansion  of  Governor  Oliver  Wolcott,  erected  in 
1753,  still  stands  on  South  St.  Oliver  Wolcott  was  the  first 
high  sheriff  of  the  new  county.  From  this  house,  the  oldest 
standing  in  Litchfield,  he  went  out  to  the  Continental  Congress 
as  a  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  served  in  the 


R.   6.     NORWALK   TO   TORRINGTON 


277 


Revolutionary  Army  as  a  brigadier-general,  and  later  was  a 
commissioner  of  Indian  affairs.  Here  in  1776  the  leaden 
statue  of  George  III,  which  had  been  erected  at  Bowling 
Green  in  1770,  torn  down  on  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution, 
and  cut  up  and  brought  to  Litchfield,  was  melted  into  bullets 
for  the  American  Army,  chiefly  by  members  of  the  Wolcott 
household.  Some  42,088 — so  Governor  Wolcott  himself  at- 
tests— spheroidal  fragments  of  the  effigy  of  George  III  were 
here  molded,  with  which  to  greet  the  Royal  armies.  The 
house  still  remains  in  the  Wolcott  family. 


Courtesy  of  Wallace  Nutting 
THE    OLD    GOVERNOR    OLIVER    WOLCOTT   MANSION,    1753 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  is  the  old  house  of  Judge 
Tapping  Reeve,  who  here  in  1784  opened  the  first  Law  School 
in  America,  which  was  continued  by  him  and  his  successor, 
James  Gould,  for  forty  years.  Reeve  was  a  man  who  "loved 
law  as  a  science  and  studied  it  as  a  philosopher,"  and  here  under 
his  eye  he  trained  the  foremost  legal  lights  of  the  time.  Among 
the  graduates  of  the  school  were  five  Cabinet  ministers,  two 
Justices  of  the  United  States  Supreme  Court,  ten  Governors  of 
States,  sixteen  United  States  Senators,  fifty  members  of  Con- 
gress, forty  judges  of  the  higher  State  courts,  eight  chief 
justices  of  the  State, — about  1000  in  all.  Judge  Reeve  mar- 
ried a  granddaughter  of  Jonathan  Edwards  and  sister  of 
Aaron  Burr,  and  under  this  roof  Burr  came  to  study  law  upon 
the  interruption  of  his  flirtation  with  Dorothy  Q.  (p  85). 


278  LITCHFIELD— TORRINGTON 

John  C.  Calhoun  passed  three  years  of  his  checkered  career 
here.  A  small  wooden  building,  now  on  the  grounds  of  the 
Historical  Society,  was  the  law  office  of  Judge  Reeve,  in  which 
he  met  his  students. 

On  North  St.  is  the  house  built  in  1760  by  Colonel  Elisha 
Sheldon,  in  the  northeast  room  of  which,  when  it  was  a  tavern, 
Washington  slept.  This  became  the  home  of  Judge  James 
Gould  when  in  1796  he  joined  Judge  Reeve  in  the  manage- 
ment of  the  Law  School.  It  is  now  the  summer  home  of  John 
Prince  Elton.  The  Deming  homestead,  The  Lindens,  on 
North  St.,  erected  in  1790  from  designs  by  a  London  architect, 
William  Sprats,  is  architecturally  one  of  the  finest  of  the  houses 
of  the  Georgian  period.  Dr.  Lyman  Beecher  lived  on  the 
northwest  corner  of  North  and  Prospect  Sts.  The  house  has 
been  moved,  but  the  old  well  and  the  Beecher  elm  are  still 
standing.  Lyman  Beecher  was  a  masterful  personality,  and 
a  pioneer  in  a  more  genial  theology  than  that  which  preceded 
him.  Here  were  born  his  famous  children,  Henry  Ward 
Beecher  and  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe.  The  old  '  whipping  post ' 
elm  still  stands  on  the  corner  of  North  and  West  Sts. 

The  Sheldon-Tallmadge  house  (1775)  is  the  residence  of  Mrs. 
Emily  Noyes  Vanderpoel,  a  great-granddaughter  of  Colonel 
Tallmadge,  the  friend  of  Washington  and  Lafayette.  The 
Noyes  Memorial  building  contains  the  Public  Library  and  the 
collection  of  the  Litchfield  Historical  Society.  The  building 
has  some  memorial  windows  and  stands  on  the  site  of  the 
Ebenezer  Marsh  house  of  1759. 

This  territory,  originally  called  Bantam  by  the  Indians,  was  bought 
from  them  in  1715  for  fifteen  pounds.  On  its  incorporation  four  years 
later  it  was  named  for  the  old  English  town.  It  was  settled  by  people 
from  the  Connecticut  valley.  In  1751  it  became  the  county-seat  and 
constantly  gained  in  importance.  It  lay  at  the  crossing  of  many 
post  roads,  and  during  the  Revolution  became  an  important  depot 
for  military  stores.  In  the  early  part  of  the  nineteenth  century,  Oliver 
Wolcott,  Jr.,  set  out  thirteen  sycamore  trees  in  the  streets  of  Litch- 
field, naming  them  after  the  thirteen  original  colonies.  The  only  one 
now  standing  is  'Connecticut,'  in  front  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church. 

Litchfield  has  furnished  to  the  nation  and  the  State  one  signer 
of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  one  Secretary  of  the  Treasury, 
two  United  States  Senators,  ten  Representatives  in  Congress,  three 
Governors  of  Connecticut,  four  of  the  twenty  Chief  Justices  of  Con- 
necticut since  1793, — more  than  any  other  town  or  city  in  the  State, 
except  Hartford,  which  also  had  four,— besides  judges  of  the  Supreme 
and  Superior  Courts,  and  other  State  officials,  and  one  Admiral  of  the 
United  States  Navy,  to  say  nothing  of  Ethan  Allen,  Vermont's  stren- 
uous hero. 

63.0     TORRINGTON  (R.  7,  p  282). 


R.  7.     STRATFORD  to  WINSTED.  57.0  m. 

Via  WATERBURY  and  TORRINGTON. 

This  route  follows  the  course  of  the  lower  Housatonic  to 
Derby  and  thence  the  valley  of  the  Naugatuck  river  north- 
ward. Both  the  Housatonic  and  the  Naugatuck  rivers  have 
worn  deep  gorges  which  offer  scenic  attractions.  The  easy 
grades  along  the  river  course  make  this  not  only  an  attractive 
but  one  of  the  favorite  entrance  routes  to  the  Berkshires  and 
New  England,  the  course  followed  by  the  "Ideal  Tour." 

The  Naugatuck  river  furnishes  valuable  waterpower,  and 
it  is  along  this  valley  that  the  brass  and  the  Associated  Clock 
industries  are  centered.  About  three  quarters  of  the  total 
brass  production  of  the  country  is  centered  in  this  State,  mostly 
in  the  Naugatuck  valley,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  there  is  no 
supply  of  raw  materials  here.  This  is  largely  due  to  the  energy 
and  perseverance  of  the  pioneers,  which  led  early  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  large  and  completely  equipped  plants,  and  to  the 
fact  that  most  of  the  skilled  workmen  in  this  industry  are 
located  in  this  region  and  it  is  difficult  to  get  them  to  migrate. 

Yet  for  miles  along  the  course  of  the  valley  are  stretches  of 
rugged  beauty — unspoiled  forest  and  bold  bluffs — that  reward 
the  lover  of  natural  beauty.  The  route  throughout  is  a  re- 
cently completed  Trunk  Line  State  Highway,  marked  by  blue 
bands  on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts. 

R.  7  §  1.     Stratford  to  Waterbury.  28.0  m. 

From  Stratford  (p  89)  the  route  follows  the  west  bank  of 
the  Housatonic  river,  which  is  here  a  broad  tidal  estuary  with 
a  seven-foot  channel  at  low  water  and  a  number  of  islands  in 
mid-stream.  The  Yale  rowing  coaches  will,  beginning  with 
1916,  train  their  crews  on  this  stretch  of  water,  which  offers 
better  rowing  facilities  than  New  Haven  Harbor,  heretofore 
used.  The  two-mile  stretch  from  Derby  to  Two  Mile  Island 
forms  an  ideal  rowing  course  with  picturesque  shores,  and  the 
Housatonic  from  Derby  above  Shelton  offers  a  four-mile  course. 
The  new  Yale  Boathouse,  to  be  located  just  below  Derby, 
can  be  reached  from  New  Haven  by  fast  trolley  past  the  Yale 
fields  and  the  Yale  Golf  Course  in  thirty  minutes. 

10.0  SHELTON.  Pop  4807.  Fairfield  Co.  Settled  1675.  Mfg. 
velvets,  ribbons,  pianos,  tacks,  silverware,  pins,  and  metal 
beds. 

Shelton  lies  opposite  Derby  at  the  junction  of  the  Housa- 
tonic and  the  Naugatuck  valleys.  It  is  one  of  the  prosperous 
manufacturing  towns.  It  perpetuates  the  name  of  Edward  N. 
Shelton,  whose  perseverance  finally  resulted  in  the  construc- 

(279) 


280  SHELTON— THOMASTON 

tion  of  the  Housatonic  dam  in  1870.  This  dam  was  three 
years  in  building;  it  is  686  feet  long  and  22  feet  high.  Among  the 
larger  factories  are  those  of  the  Derby  Silver  Company,  the 
Star  Pin  Company,  and  the  Huntington  Piano  Company 
(p  800). 

From  the  Square  turn  right,  across  the  Housatonic  river 
bridge,  turning  right  with  trolley  into  Main  St. 

10.S  DERBY.  Alt  16  ft.  Pop  (twp)  8991.  New  Haven  Co.  Settled 
1642.  Indian  name  Paugamuc.  Mfg.  pins,  castings,  forg- 
ings,  pianos,  organs,  keys,  brass,  and  hardware. 

Derby,  a  brass  town,  is  situated  on  a  headland  at  the  junction 
of  the  two  rivers. 

This  is  an  old  town,  first  settled  by  John  Wakeman  on  the  Point 
between  the  two  rivers  where  Birmingham  now  is.  In  1675  the  early 
settlers  were  granted  "plantation  privileges"  and  the  town  was  named 
Derby.  Derby  Landing  early  became  a  shipping  center,  and  as  early 
as  1657  vessels  passed  regularly  between  Derby  and  Milford,  and 
later  between  Derby  and  New  York  and  even  the  West  Indies.  From 
1750  to  1815  was  a  period  of  great  commercial  prosperity,  but  this 
declined,  partly  on  account  of  the  War  of  1812,  and  in  part  because  of 
the  development  of  the  turnpikes,  which  tended  to  shift  the  commerce 
via  New  Haven  and  Bridgeport.  About  this  time,  however,  the 
foundations  of  the  present  manufacturing  prosperity  of  the  region  were 
laid.  A  pioneer  manufacturer  was  General  David  Humphreys,  Wash- 
ington's aide,  and  Minister  to  Portugal  and  Spain,  who  was  born  in 
Derby  in  1752.  He  founded  the  town  of  Seymour  further  on.  Isaac 
Hull,  the  famous  commander  of  the  old  frigate  "  Constitution,"  was 
born  at  Derby  in  1775.  Sheldon  Smith  built  the  Naugatuck  dam  and 
canal  in  1833.  He  interested  Anson  G.  Phelps  of  New  York  in  the 
community  and  induced  him  to  build  his  "Big  Copper  Mill"  here  in 
1836.  This  mill,  on  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  Ailing  Mills,  marks 
the  beginning  of  the  copper  and  brass  industry  of  this  section  of  the 
valley.  The  manufacture  of  pins  began  at  Derby  in  1835  with  the 
introduction  of  a  machine  that  made  a  pin  and  its  head  in  one  opera- 
tion. The  industry  spread  to  the  surrounding  towns,  and  now  65  per 
cent  of  the  pins  used  in  the  United  States  are  produced  in  this  region. 

The  route  follows  Elizabeth  St.  upgrade,  past  the  Monu- 
ment, following  the  west  bank  of  the  Naugatuck.  There  are 
some  fine  old  mansions  on  the  heights  overlooking  the  river. 

On  the  opposite  side  is  Ansonia,  a  town  founded  in  1838  by 
Anson  G.  Phelps  and  named  for  him.  In  1869  the  Phelps 
concern  became  the  present  Ansonia  Brass  &  Copper  Co., 
employing  1600  hands. 

16.0     SEYMOUR.     Alt  100  ft.     Pop  (twp)  4786.     New  Haven  Co. 

Inc.  1850.     Mfg.  brass,  copper,  and  hard  rubber  goods,  plush, 

edged  tools,  horseshoe  nails,  telegraph  cables,  bicycle  parts, 

and  eyelets. 

In  1806  the  first  factory  in  the  United  States  for  the  making 

of  woolen  goods  was  erected  here,  and  in  1808  the  cloth  for 

Thomas   Jefferson's   inaugural   suit   was   made   in   this   mill. 

General  Humphreys  built  some  extensive  woolen  mills  here 


R.    7   §  2.     WATERBURY   TO   WINSTED  281 

to  introduce  the  best  methods  of  making  broadcloths,  and  im- 
ported skilled  workmen  from  England,  and  merino  sheep  from 
Spain.  The  Humphreysville  Copper  Company,  established 
here  in  1849,  was  another  enterprise  of  Anson  Phelps,  but  was 
taken  over  by  the  New  Haven  Copper  Company  in  1855.  The 
present  Humphreysville  Manufacturing  Company  occupies  the 
buildings  of  the  old  concern  which  bore  that  name  and  took 
over  the  General  Humphreys  interests. 

At  Seymour  the  route  crosses  the  Naugatuck  river,  and, 
marked  by  blue  bands,  follows  from  here  the  eastern  bank 
northward  through  the  industrial  village  of  Beacon  Falls  (19.5). 

23.5  NAUGATUCK.  Alt  194  ft.  Pop  (twp)  12,722.  New  Haven 
Co.  Inc.  1844.  Mfg.  rubber  goods,  knit  underwear,  hosiery, 
buttons,  copper  and  brass  plating,  gas  and  electric  fixtures, 
and  cut  glass. 

Naugatuck,  a  pleasant  old  town,  has  given  its  name  to  the 
river  and  the  valley.  The  word  is  derived  from  an  Indian 
phrase,  Nau-ko-tunk,  "one  large  tree,"  from  a  lofty  tree  which 
once  stood  on  Rock  Rimmon  near  the  Falls  Station.  On  the 
outskirts  of  the  village  is  the  historic  old  Porter  House  where 
Washington  once  made  his  headquarters.  The  chief  manu- 
facturers of  the  town  are  the  Dunham  Hosiery  Company,  the 
Goodyear  Indian  Rubber  Glove  Company,  and  the  Goodyear 
Metal  Rubber  Shoe  Company. 

Leaving  Naugatuck  the  route  follows  trolley,   beside   the 
river,  into  South  Main  St.  to  Center  Square. 
28.0  WATERBURY  (R.  3,p  208). 

R.  7  §  2.     Waterbury  to  Winsted.  29.0  m. 

Leaving  Waterbury,  the  route  follows  West  Main  St.,  turn- 
ing north  on  Thomaston  Ave.,  following  blue  bands,  along 
the  Naugatuck  river,  through  the  hamlet  of  Waterville  (3.0), 
where  Hancock  Brook  joins  the  river.  The  valley  here  has  a 
depth  below  the  surrounding  highlands  of  about  500  feet. 
This  region  is  known  in  a  general  way  as  the  Litchfield  Hills. 
At  7.5  turn  left  across  R.R.,  crossing  the  Naugatuck  at  Rey- 
nolds Bridge,  and  take  the  lefthand  road  to  Litchfield,  follow- 
ing blue  bands.  On  the  right  is  the  Seth  Thomas  Clock 
factory,  organized  in  1853;  it  employs  nearly  1000  hands  and 
manufactures  annually  400,000  clocks. 

9.5  THOMASTON.  Alt  378  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3533.  Litchfield  Co. 
Inc.  1875.  Mfg.  clocks,  watches,  and  brass  goods. 

Thomaston,  the  'clock  town,'  is  in  the  midst  of  some  of  the 
finest  scenery  of  the  valley. 

Seth  Thomas  (1785-1859)  was  a  carpenter  in  New  Haven.  In  1813 
he  migrated  to  the  little  hamlet  of  Plymouth,  now  Thomaston,  and 


282  THOM  ASTON— WINSTED 


with  two  partners  began  to  manufacture  clocks.  Later  he  became  the 
sole  proprietor  of  perhaps  the  largest  clock  factory  in  America,  whose 
product  is  so  wellknown  all  over  the  world. 

The  route  continues  to  follow  the  narrow  valley  of  the 
Naugatuck  through  Fluteville  and  Campville.  A  mile  to  the 
east  is  the  old  town  of  Plymouth.  Oliver  Ames,  progenitor  of 
the  numerous  Ameses  (North  Easton,  R.  32),  was  born  here, 
and  invented  and  manufactured  a  cannon  of  heavy  iron  rings 
welded  together.  The  route  passes  through  the  quiet  village 
of  East  Litchfield  (17.0),  four  miles  west  of  which  is  the  dig- 
nified old  town  of  Litchfield  (p  276).  Following  the  blue 
markers  along  the  valley  and  crossing  the  river,  the  road  leads 
into  Main  St. 

20.0  TORRINGTON.  Alt  593  ft.  Pop  (twp)  16,840;  (vil)  15,483. 
Litchfield  Co.  Settled  1734.  Mfg.  sheet  and  rolled  brass, 
gold  plated  goods,  iron,  brass,  copper,  and  spelter  castings, 
needles,  machines,  cycle  spokes  and  pedals,  nails,  woolen 
goods,  and  piano  hardware. 

Torrington  is  a  thriving  industrial  town,  encircled  by  the 
Litchfield  Hills.  The  house  in  which  John  Brown  of  Harpers 
Ferry  fame  was  born,  in  1800,  is  still  preserved  in  its  original 
form  by  the  John  Brown  Association.  Other  noteworthy 
natives  are  Samuel  J.  Mills,  'Father  of  Foreign  Missions  in 
America,'  born  in  1783,  and  Collis  P.  Huntington,  one  of  the 
five  men  who  built  a  railroad  to  the  Pacific  Coast. 

In  1806  this  settlement  was  known  as  New  Orleans  Village,  or  'Mast 
Swamp,'  because  of  the  pine  trees  on  its  hillsides,  much  used  for  ship- 
building. In  1813  some  of  the  Wolcotts  of  Litchfield,  impressed  by 
the  local  waterpower,  bought  land  and  built  a  woolen  mill,  whereupon 
the  village  was  called  Wolcottville.  It  eventually  became  Torrington 
in  1881,  and  an  incorporated  borough  in  1887.  The  town's  pros- 
perity dates  from  1863.  Its  principal  firms  are  the  Coe  Brass  Manu- 
facturing Company,  the  Turner  &  Seymour  Manufacturing  Company, 
the  Union  Hardware  Company,  the  Excelsior  Needle  Company,  the 
Hendey  Machine  Company,  the  Torrington  Manufacturing  Company, 
Hotchkiss  Brothers  Company,  the  Warrenton  Woolen  Company,  the 
Standard  Company,  and  the  Progressive  Manufacturing  Company. 

Leaving  Torrington  by  Main  St.,  and  crossing  the  river,  the 
route  follows  the  State  Highway  through  the  valley  of  Still 
River,  past  the  hamlet  of  Burrville  (25.0),  to 

29.0  WINSTED.  Alt  724  ft.  Pop  7754.  Litchfield  Co.  Settled 
1756.  Mfg.  clocks,  silk  goods,  hosiery,  cutlery,  pins,  tools, 
hardware,  leather,  chairs,  bronzes,  lamps,  derricks,  sashes, 
and  doors. 

Winsted  is  a  beautiful  borough  in  the  town  of  Winchester, 
among  the  Litchfield  Hills.  The  name  was  coined  from  Win- 
chester and  Barkhamsted,  the  name  of  the  adjoining  town- 
ship. The  Mad  river,  which  here  unites  with  the  Still  river, 
furnishes  valuable  waterpower,  supporting  thriving  and  varied 
industries. 


R.   7   §   2.     WATERBURY   TO   WINSTED  283 

In  the  central  part  of  the  borough,  in  the  Park,  there  is  a 
sixty-foot  tower  in  memory  of  the  soldiers  of  Winsted  who  fell 
in  the  Civil  War.  In  another  Park  there  is  a  Soldiers'  Monu- 
ment and  a  memorial  fountain.  The  Gilbert  High  School  and 
the  William  L.  Gilbert  Home  for  friendless  children  were  each 
endowed  with  more  than  $600,000  by  William  L.  Gilbert,  a 
prominent  citizen.  The  Old  Mill  house,  built  by  David  Austin 
in  1771,  was  the  first  frame  house  in  the  village.  The  Colonial 
mansion  built  by  Solomon  Rockwell  in  1813  is  now  the  home  of 
Miss  Mary  P.  Hinsdale.  Rose  Terry  Cooke  (1827-92),  the 
writer  of  stories  and  poems,  lived  here  in  an  old  Colonial 
house  still  standing.  To  the  southwest  of  the  town,  Highland 
Lake  is  encircled  by  Wakefield  Boulevard,  a  seven-mile  drive, 
along  which  are  many  summer  cottages. 

Clock-making  is  the  chief  industry  of  ^the  town.  Those  wooden 
clocks  that  are  so  highly  prized  as  heirlooms  were  manufactured  here 
as  early  as  1807  by  Hoadley  &  Whiting,  and  the  Wm.  L.  Gilbert 
Clock  Company  is  the  direct  outgrowth  of  this  earlier  firm.  It  is  one 
of  the  largest  in  the  world  exclusively  devoted  to  clock-making.  The 
Winsted  Mfg.  Company,  makers  of  scythes,  is  the  oldest  industrial 
firm  in  the  town.  The  plant  of  the  New  England  Pin  Company,  on 
Bridge  St.,  turns  out  15,000,000  pins  a  day,  weighing  a  ton.  Among 
the  other  manufacturing  concerns  are  Geo.  Dudley  &  Son,  leather 
manufacturers,  established  in  1831;  the  Strong  Mfg.  Company, 
undertakers'  materials;  the  Winsted  Silk  Company;  the  Winsted 
Hosiery  Company;  and  the  New  England  Knitting  Company. 

The  State  Highway  running  east  and  west  from  Canaan  to 
Hartford  passes  through  Winsted,  marked  by  yellow  bands 
on  poles  and  posts.  The  State  Highway  from  Stratford  to 
Winsted  is  continued  northward  to  the  State  line.  This  route  is 
to  be  marked  by  blue  bands  on  poles,  and  goes  through  Roberts- 
ville  and  Colebrook  River,  near  the  Massachusetts  boundary, 
whence  a  Massachusetts  State  Highway  is  now  being  con- 
structed through  New  Boston  and  Otis  to  West  Becket. 


(284) 


ISLAND    SOUND 


THE 

CONNECTICUT 


REGION 


©PE  SAR6ENT. 


R.  8.     SALISBURY   TO   HARTFORD.  49  5  m. 

Via  CANAAN  and  WINSTED. 

This  route  through  the  Litchfield  Hills  and  the  northwestern 
portion  of  Connecticut  offers  much  in  scenic  attractions  and 
forms  an  important  link  in  the  entrances  to  New  England 
from  New  York  State.  It  is  a  continuation  of  the  New  York 
Highway  from  Poughkeepsie  (p  231). 

From  Salisbury  to  Hartford  is  State  Highway,  marked 
throughout  its  course  by  yellow  bands  on  telegraph  poles. 

The  section  from  Salisbury  to  Canaan  is  on  Route  5  (p  243). 

From  the  village  of  Canaan  (6.5)  the  macadam  State  High- 
way, marked  by  yellow  bands,  follows  along  the  terraces  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  Blackberry  river,  passing  under  R.R.  to 
East  Canaan  (9.0). 

In  the  village  is  the  fine  old  Stevens  place.  Samuel  Forbes, 
an  early  iron  master  who  had  erected  a  forge  at  Lakeville  in 
which  were  cast  Revolutionary  cannon,  built  a  slitting  mill 
here,  the  1;hird  in  the  country.  Limestone  is  extensively 
quarried  here  and  burnt  in  lime  as  well  as  dressed  for  building 
stone.  The  State  Capitol  at  Hartford  is  built  of  dolomitic 
marble  from  these  quarries. 

The  route  crosses  Whiting  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Black- 
berry, and  continues  through  West  Norfolk  (1082  ft),  upgrade, 
with  Haystack  Mountain  to  the  north,  into 

14.0  NORFOLK.  Alt  1240  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1541.  Litchfield  Co. 
Inc.  1758. 

Norfolk  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  midst  of  delightful 
-scenery  and  is  becoming  yearly  a  more  popular  resort  during 
both  the  summer  and  winter.  It  has  been  styled  'the  Lenox 
of  the  Litchfield  Hills. '  At  the  end  of  the  village  Green  is  a 
fountain  of  granite  and  bronze  designed  by  Stanford  White, 
the  bronze  by  Saint-Gaudens.  The  old  village  church  has  a 
commanding  situation  on  the  summit  of  a  hill.  There  are 
many  fine  residences  in  the  town,  notably  that  of  Mr.  Eldridge, 
and  Fox  Hill,  the  residence  of  the  Hon.  H.  H.  Bridgman,  in 
the  style  of  a  French  chateau,  designed  by  J.  Cleveland  Cady, 
the  grounds  laid  out  by  the  Olmsteds. 

The  Litchfield  County  Choral  Union,  which  has  its  center 
at  Norfolk,  has  a  chorus  of  over  400,  and,  assisted  by  an 
orchestra  of  75,  gives  a  three  days'  festival  in  a  large  building 
erected  for  the  purpose.  The  golf  links  on  Norfolk  Downs 
are  the  best  in  this  section.  Four  miles  southeast  is  Lake  Wan- 
gum,  high  up  on  the  pine-covered  slope  of  Canaan  Mountain. 

From  Norfolk  the  highway  follows  the  course  of  Mad 
(286) 


R.  8.     SALISBURY  TO   HARTFORD  287 

River.  This  highway  across  Litchfield  County  has  for  cen- 
turies been  known  as  the  'Great  Green  Woods  Road.' 

In  1752  the  inhabitants  of  Simsbury  and  Farmington  joined  the 
settlers  of  New  Hartford  in  a  petition  to  build  this  road.  It  was  over 
this  that  Ethan  Allen  marched  for  Ticonderoga,  and  patriots  traversed 
it  toward  Lexington  and  Bunker  Hill.  In  the  Revolution,  troops  and 
munitions,  and  detachments  of  Burgoyne's  army  as  prisoners  of  war 
passed  over  the  road,  and  iron  and  lumber  were  transported  from 
Salisbury  to  Hartford. 

Yale  College  received  a  grant  in  1742.  Rights  to  land  here  were 
sold  at  public  auction;  there  was  such  a  prejudice  against  the  site 
that  all  the  purchasers  except  one  forfeited  their  rights  and  thereby 
lost  their  first  installments  of  forty  shillings  each.  The  Connecticut 
Legislature,  however,  offered  it  for  sale  again  in  1754,  and  this  time 
settlers  were  induced  to  move  in. 

23.5     WINSTED  (R.7,p282). 

The  route  follows  Main  St.  with  trolley  into  the  New 
Hartford  road,  which  ascends  and  then  follows  the  course  of 
Mad  River  into 

30.0  NEW  HARTFORD.  Alt  419 ft.  Pop  (twp)  2144.  Litchfield  Co. 
Inc.  1738.  Mfg.  cotton  goods,  silk,  brushes,  and  planes. 

On  Town  Hill,  near  the  old  landmark  of  Town  Hill  Church, 
is  the  home  of  Edith  Wynne  Matthison  and  her  husband, 
Charles  Rann  Kennedy;  Mme.  Clara  Louise  Kellogg-Strakosch 
lives  on  a  neighboring  hill.  Lake  Wonksunkamonk  is  a  pretty 
body  of  water  three  miles  west  of  the  village,  with  a  summer 
colony  of  actors  and  literary  folk.  In  Howe's  shop,  on  the 
site  of  the  New  Hartford  House,  woman  first  sewed  a  stitch  on 
a  sewing-machine. 

From  this  point  the  route  follows  the  valley  of  the  Farming- 
ton  river,  crossing  the  striking  Satan  Kingdom  Gorge.  Just 
before  reaching  Collinsville  the  road,  marked  in  yellow,  turns 
eastward  and  away  from  the  river. 

36.5     CANTON.    Alt  900  ft.     Pop   (twp)  2732.     Hartford  Co.     Inc. 

1806.     Mfg.  tools. 

The  State  Road  continues  across  the  hills  through  Avon 
(40.0)  and  climbs  the  steep  slope  of  Talcott  Mountain  (1020  ft) 
to  an  elevation  of  525  feet  and  descends  the  gentler  eastern  slope. 
The  mountain  is  a  double  ridge  of  basalt  formed  as  a  lava  flow, 
which  has  been  tilted  and  left  standing  by  the  erosion  of  the 
softer  Connecticut  river  sandstones  about  it. 

49.5     HARTFORD  (R.l,p  111). 


R.  9.     THE  LOWER  HOUSATONIC  VALLEY.   68.0m. 
From  DERBY  to  CANAAN. 

The  Housatonic  valley  through  this  portion  of  its  course 
has  worn  a  deep  trough  in  the  hard  crystalline  rocks.  It  is 
what  the  geologists  call  a  "deeply  trenched"  valley,  which 
has  been  worn  to  a  depth  of  approximately  500  feet  below  the 
surrounding  flat-topped  hills.  The  floor  of  the  valley  offers  a 
level  and  natural  course  for  the  trunk  line  highway  projected. 

At  the  junction  of  the  Housatonic  and  the  Naugatuck,  in 
the  last  half  century  have  developed  a  group  of  important 
manufacturing  towns  specializing  in  brass  and  hardware. 

The  road  from  Derby  (p  280)  follows  the  river  on  its  north- 
eastern bank  through  a  sparsely  inhabited  but  scenically  at- 
tractive region.  On  the  opposite  bank  the  road  runs  as  far 
as  Zoar  Bridge,  where  it  turns  east  through  the  wide  valley 
of  Half  Way  River.  At  Bennetts  Bridge  (15.0)  the  Pompa- 
raug  river  enters  from  the  north  and  the  Pootatuck  from  the 
south.  These  two  valleys  form  a  natural  east  and  west  high- 
way, and  here  Route  3  (p  208)  and  the  Highland  Division  of  the 
N.  Y.,  N.  H.  &  H.  R.R.  cross  the  Housatonic  valley.  The 
valley  road  continues  to  follow  the  river  closely  through  a  wild 
and  little  known  country  to  STILL  RIVER  (31.0),  a  little  hamlet. 
Here  the  Housatonic  plunges  over  the  Great  Falls  and  whirls 
its  turbulent  course  through  a  deep  rock  gorge. 

34.0     NEW  MILFORD  (R.  6,p276). 

The  valley  soils  about  here  are  favorable  to  the  growth  of 
tobacco,  and  New  Milford  is  a  considerable  tobacco  market. 
The  valley  here  is  broad  and  fertile.  To  the  west,  Rocky  River 
runs  north  for  some  miles  parallel  with  the  Housatonic,  but  in 
the  opposite  direction,  joining  the  Housatonic  at  BOARDMAN 
BRIDGE  (36.0),  where  lime-burning  has  become  in  the  last 
decade  a  flourishing  industry.  To  the  west  is  the  long  jagged 
ridge  of  Candlewood  Mountain.  The  Housatonic  valley  from 
New  Milford  to  Kent  is  at  its  loveliest.  The  road  between 
here  and  Gaylordsville  was  the  route  for  the  transport  of  arms 
and  munitions  in  the  Revolution. 

GAYLORDSVILLE  (40.5)  is  a  quiet  little  hamlet  in  the  midst 
of  broad  tobacco  fields.  The  original  Gaylord  homestead, 
now  the  home  of  Jeanette  Gaylord,  still  stands  on  the  left. 

The  first  William  Gaylord,  or  Gaillard  (the  family  originally  came 
from  Normandy),  was  an  emigrant  on  the  "Mary  and  John,"  and  set- 
tling first  in  Dorchester,  migrated  to  Windsor  in  the  Connecticut  valley. 
Ensign  William  Gaylord  was  granted  1000  acres  in  this  vicinity.  In 
the  early  deeds  the  Housatonic  was  always  called  "The  Great  River," 
the  name  Houssatunnick  first  appearing  in  a  deed  by  William  Sherman, 
father  of  Roger  Sherman,  to  William  Gaylord  in  1744.  When  he  set- 
tled here  he  found  the  old  Schaghticoke  chieftain,  Siacus,  living  in 

(288) 


R.   9.     THE   LOWER   HOUSATONIC    VALLEY  289 

a  hut  further  up  the  river  at  what  is  now  called  Gaylords  Bridge.     The 
Schaghticokes  had  long  cultivated  apples  all  through  this  region. 

From  Gaylordsville  a  good  road  to  the  west  leads  to  Webo- 
tuck,  N.Y.,  and  South  Dover  on  Route  5  (p  240).  Two  miles 
beyond,  the  Webotuck  river  enters  from  the  west.  On  Scata- 
cook  Mountain  (1500  ft)  there  were  until  recently,  and  may  be 
still,  a  few  Indians  who  lived  in  huts.  They  were  the  rem- 
nants of  the  once  populous  village  here  which  during  the  Revo- 
lution provided  100  warriors  to  fight  the  British.  A  half-breed 
is  president  of  a  rattlesnake  club,  whose  spring  hunt  draws  par- 
ticipants from  neighboring  cities  to  share  the  sport  and  also 
the  dinner  afterward,  at  which  the  only  accepted  snake-bite 
cure  is  plentifully  provided.  Here  the  Housatonic  river  is 
at  its  nearest  point  to  the  New  York  boundary,  less  than  a 
mile.  Within  the  past  few  years  there  has  been  a  large  hydro- 
electric development  in  this  region.  The  diversion  canals, 
conduits,  and  power  houses  are  conspicuous  features  in  this 
portion  of  the  valley. 

47.0     KENT.     Alt  395  ft.     Pop  1122.     Litch field  Co.     Inc.  1739. 

Kent  is  a  quiet  old  town.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  Kent  School, 
for  boys,  maintained  by  the  Order  of  the  Holy  Cross. 

The  valley  from  Kent  northward  becomes  narrow  and 
wilder,  the  river  more  turbulent.  Good  roads  on  either  side 
of  this  river  make  accessible  this  picturesque  valley.  Not 
far  above  the  town  the  ruins  of  a  blast  furnace  are  seen,  used 
for  more  than  a  century  in  the  days  when  pig  iron  was  a  lead- 
ing local  product  (p  242).  The  waterpower  is  owned  by  the 
Stanley  Rule  and  Level  Company. 

The  route  passes  the  hamlet  of  Cornwall  Bridge  (52.0). 
Four  miles  to  the  eastward,  near  the  only  first-growth  pine 
in  New  England  south  of  New  Hampshire,  is  the  beautiful 
oldtime  village  of  Cornwall  Plains.  Here  is  the  Rumsey 
School,  for  young  boys.  In  1808  a  Sandwich  Islander  founded 
a  mission  for  the  Indians  and  a  few  of  his  own  race,  which  he 
maintained  here  until  his  death  in  1818. 

56.0     WEST  CORNWALL.     Alt  550  ft.     Pop  (twp)  1016.     Inc.  1740. 

Four  and  a  half  miles  on  the  right  rises  Barrack  Mountain. 
Opposite,  to  the  west  where  the  valley  of  Salmon  Creek  enters, 
is  the  village  of  Lime  Rock.  Here  limestone  is  quarried  and 
the  iron  ore  from  Salisbury  is  smelted,  especially  by  the  firm 
of  Barnum  &  Richardson  Company,  furnishing  an  iron  of 
superior  quality,  the  demand  for  which  exceeds  the  supply. 

At  Falls   Village  (62.5)  a  hydro-electric   plant  with  a  high 
dam  has  marred  the  grandeur  of  the  130-foot  falls. 
68.0     CANAAN  (R.  6,p  246). 


R.  10.     THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  ROUTES. 

From  THE  SOUND  to  BEETTON  WOODS  and  COLEBROOK,  WEST 
BANK,  322.5  m.,  EAST  BANK,  343.5  m. 

THE  CONNECTICUT  RIVER  VALLEY  is  not  primarily  a  river 
valley,  but  a  broad  basin  occupied  in  part  by  the  present 
course  of  the  Connecticut  river.  The  stream,  however,  leaves 
the  valley  near  Middletown,  Conn.,  and  has  cut  a  steep-sided 
gorge  through  the  eastern  highlands.  The  rocks  of  the  Con- 
necticut basin  differ  from  those  of  a  majority  of  the  other 
sections  of  New  England  in  that  they  consist  of  bedded  sand- 
stones and  shales,  with  intrusions  and  sheets  of  the  basaltic 
rocks  which  form  the  mountain  ranges  within  the  valley  proper. 
The  sandstones  and  shales  are  generally  red  and  give  a  dis- 
tinct color  to  the  later  deposits  into  which  they  have  been 
re-worked.  The  Connecticut  river  is  itself  bordered  by  long, 
narrow  stretches  of  meadow  land  throughout  the  greater  part 
of  its  course.  The  meadows  are  overflowed  from  time  to 
time,  but  are  tilled  and  used  for  the  production  of  farm  crops. 

In  Massachusetts  the  Connecticut  flows  through  a  basin  of 
weaker  Triassic  shales  and  sandstones,  and  the  valley  broadens 
out,  forming  a  part  of  the  finest  agricultural  region  of  large 
extent  in  New  England.  In  places,  hills  of  harder  trap  rock 
rise  so  high  that  they  are  called  mountains, — Mt.  Tom,  Mt. 
Holyoke.  For  the  most  part  the  river  winds  among  the 
alluvial  lowlands  which  it  has  created,  and  the  valley  rises  in  a 
series  of  the  most  perfect  steps  or  terraces  in  the  country. 
These  have  been  cut  by  the  river  in  its  work  of  removing  the 
heavy  deposits  of  gravel,  sand,  and  clay  that  were  laid  down 
in  this  lowland  during  the  closing  stages  of  the  glacial  period, 
when  great  volumes  of  water  heavily  laden  with  sediment 
were  poured  into  this  valley  from  the  receding  ice  front.  In 
the  course  of  this  excavation  of  glacial  deposit  spurs  of  rock 
have  been  uncovered,  over  which  the  water  falls  and  tumbles, 
as  at  South  Hadley,  Turners  Falls,  and  Vernon.  The  river 
now  has  a  scant  summer  traffic  as  far  as  Hartford,  forty  miles 
from  its  mouth,  but  formerly  the  commerce  it  carried  was  con- 
siderable. In  1816  we  read,  "The  Connecticut  river  is  navigable 
two  hundred  miles  above  Hartford  for  boats  above  fifteen 
tons  and  fifty  miles  higher  for  floats  and  pine  timber."  Large 
quantities  of  potash  were  carried  down  river  even  from  the 
Canada  line,  and  most  of  the  supplies  for  the  up-river  settle- 
ments were  carried  up  in  flat-boats. 

William  Pynchon  of  Springfield  was  the  first  to  establish  systematic 
river  transportation.  To  facilitate  movement  of  freight  around  the 
Enfield  Rapids  he  built  a  great  storage  warehouse  below  the  falls  at 
Warehouse  Point.  The  earliest  traffic  was  in  dug-out  canoes  made 

(290) 


R.    10   §    I.     WEST   BANK:      SAYBROOK  TO   HARTFORD         291 

from  the  trunks  of  single  pine  trees.  These  huge  "canoe  trees"  were 
protected  by  a  heavy  penalty  from  those  who  ruthlessly  cut  them. 
We  hear  of  a  fleet  of  fifty  Indian  canoes  coming  from  Pocumtuck 
(Deerfield)  in  the  spring  of  1638  heaped  with  Indian  corn  to  relieve  the 
famine  down-river  which  followed  the  Pequot  War.  Later  flat-boats 
came  into  use,  which  were  propelled  along  shore  by  "snubbing"  with 
"setting  poles."  In  the  eighteenth  century  the  flat-boat  traffic  in 
the  much-needed  commodities  of  the  time — iron,  salt,  and  much  rum — 
had  reached  considerable  proportions.  Before  the  middle  of  the 
seventeenth  century  the  Connecticut  river  towns  as  far  north  as 
Hartford  had  become  seaports,  building  and  sending  vessels  with  their 
wares  to  the  Barbadoes  and  the  Madeiras. 

The  first  quarter  of  the  nineteenth  century  was  a  period  of  great 
activity  in  improving  the  means  of  transportation,  both  by  turnpikes 
and  canals.  The  companies  formed  for  their  establishment  were  the 
popular  means  for  the  investment  of  capital  at  that  time.  Many 
ambitious  projects  were  formed  for  increasing  the  navigability  of  the 
Connecticut  by  building  lock  canals  around  the  falls  and  rapids.  The 
initial  enterprise  was  a  canal  built  at  South  Hadley  in  1795-  It  was 
cut  for  two  and  a  half  miles  from  solid  rock  and  made  possible  the 
transportation  of  boats  or  rafts  forty  feet  long  and  twenty  feet  wide. 
The  boats,  placed  on  a  cradle,  were  pulled  up  along  an  inclined  plane 
by  a  cable.  The  Turners  Falls  canal  was  opened  for  service  in  1800, 
and  that  of  Bellows  Falls  in  1802.  The  Enfield  canal  was  not  opened 
until  1829,  but  was  wisely  planned  to  utilize  the  waterpower,  so  that, 
though  the  railroads  a  decade  later  put  the  boat-canals  out  of  business, 
this  is  still  in  use.  In  the  early  part  of  the  nineteenth  century  the 
type  of  boat  was  a  flat-boat  of  stout  oak  about  seventy  feet  in  length 
and  fifteen  feet  in  width,  fitted  with  a  mast  and  sails.  These  boats 
had  a  capacity  of  thirty  to  forty  tons.  The  up-trip  from  Hartford  to 
Wells  River  took  about  twenty  days,  but  sometimes  the  return  trip 
would  be  made  in  five.  The  round  trip  between  Hartford  and  Bellows 
Falls  averaged  about  two  weeks.  The  canals  brought  good  dividends 
for  a  time,  and  there  was  much  wildcat  promotion.  In  1816  a 
survey  was  made  for  a  canal  from  the  Merrimack  to  the  Connecticut 
by  way  of  the  Contoocook  and  Sugar  rivers.  In  1825  a  canal  was 
opened,  joining  New  Haven  with  the  Connecticut  by  way  of  the  Farm- 
ington  river.  In  June,  1827,  Governor  Clinton  of  New  York,  the 
'  Great  Mogul  of  canal  matters,'  who  had  just  finished  the  Erie  Canal, 
made  a  tour  up  the  Connecticut  river  with  a  view  to  forming  canal 
companies  in  New  England. 


R.  10  §  1.     West  Bank:    Saybrook  to  Hartford.  43.5m. 

This  route  follows  the  course  of  the  Connecticut  from  the 
Sound  through  one  of  the  more  remote  and  most  beautiful 
portions  of  Connecticut.  It  is  a  region  of  hard  glacial  rocks 
and  granites  through  which  in  former  geologic  times  the 
Connecticut  has  worn  a  narrow  gorge  to  a  depth  of  about  500 
feet  below  the  fairly  even  level  of  the  adjacent  flattened  hill- 
tops which  mark  the  river  of  the  former  'Cretaceous  Pene- 
plain.' The  tributary  streams  flow  precipitately  from  the 
highlands  to  the  Connecticut,  affording  small  but  valuable 
waterpowers.  The  Connecticut  itself  is  a  tidal  stream  through- 
out this  portion  of  its  course. 


2Q  2  SAYBROOK— HADDAM 

From  Saybrook  to  Hartford  a  State  Road,  one  of  the  main 
trunk  lines  of  the  system,  with  blue  markers,  follows  pretty 
closely  the  course  of  the  river  for  the  most  part  at  a  level  of 
about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  stream,  commanding  beauti- 
ful views  of  the  river  gorge  with  its  rocky,  wooded  banks.  It 
passes  through  interesting  old  villages,  many  of  which  still 
retain  a  flavor  of  the  prosperity  of  old  shipbuilding  days  and 
the  once  prosperous  West  India  trade,  and  through  little  in- 
dustrial communities  utilizing  the  waterpower  from  the  streams 
that  tumble  down  from  the  heights  above. 

From  the  Boston  Post  Road  at  Old  Saybrook  the  State 
Road  runs  northward  through  Saybrook  Junction  (3.0),  skirt- 
ing South  Cove  to 

7.5  ESSEX.  Alt  32  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2745.  Middlesex  Co.  Settled 
1690.  Indian  name  Potapaug.  Mfg.  bone  and  ivory  goods, 
piano  keys,  augers  and  bits;  daily  steamer  to  New  York  and 
Hartford  in  season. 

Essex  is  an  oldtime  shipbuilding  village,  where  war  vessels 
were  built  during  the  Revolution;  it  was  still  of  sufficient  im- 
portance in  1812  to  be  raided  by  the  British.  The  first  settlers 
built  their  houses  on  Potapaug  Point,  and  as  the  village  grew 
it  crept  up  the  steep  hill  to  the  west  of  the  lowland.  The 
houses  on  the  hill  are  approached  by  gently  sloping  terraced 
streets,  along  which  one  gets  charming  and  constantly  chang- 
ing views  of  the  river,  the  coves,  the  islands,  and  the  Lyme 
shore  to  the  east.  An  old  warehouse  still  stands  on  the  shore, 
built  in  1753  by  Abner  Parker  and  long  owned  by  the  Haydens, 
who  acquired  wealth  in  the  shipbuilding  and  the  West  India 
trade.  The  old  Hayden  homestead  (1766),  just  behind  the 
warehouse,  was  a  tavern  up  to  1800.  It  contains  some  fine 
large  rooms  filled  with  beautiful  specimens  of  old  furniture. 

Bone  and  ivory  working  has  long  been  an  important  indus- 
try here.  The  making  of  combs  was  begun  before  1800,  and 
the  Pratts,  father  and  son,  here  invented  the  first  machine  for 
cutting  the  teeth  of  combs.  Their  workshop  is  the  third 
house  west  of  Pratt's  Smithy  on  West  Ave.  The  smithy  is 
owned  and  operated  by  a  direct  descendant  in  the  ninth  gen- 
eration of  William  Pratt,  the  settler,  who  built  the  first  shop  on 
the  same  spot  about  1678.  The  second  house  west  of  the 
smithy  is  the  old  Pratt  homestead,  the  rear  portion  being  of 
unknown  antiquity. 

The  Rev.  Thomas  Buckingham,  one  of  the  incorporators  of 
Yale,  and  a  successful  trapper  of  beaver,  settled  in  1702  on 
Beaver  Pond,  some  miles  back  from  the  river,  where  beaver 
were  then  abundant. 

The  State  Road  runs  at  a  distance  from  the  river  through 


R.    10   §   I.     WEST  BANK:     SAYBROOK  TO  HARTFORD        293 

Deep  River  (9.8),  the  principal  community  in  what  is  left  of 
the  old  town  of  Saybrook,  from  which  have  been  carved  out 
so  many  of  the  surrounding  townships.  The  road  descends  to 
lower  levels,  following  the  blue  markers  beside  the  river  near 

11.0     CHESTER.    Alt  17  ft.    Pop  (twp)  1419.    Middlesex  Co.    Settled 
1692.    Mfg.  auger  bits,  ivory,  bone,  and  wooden  goods,  man- 
icure fittings,  bright  wire  goods,  and  brushes. 
Chester  is  one  of  the  many  towns  carved  out  of  the  former 
greater  territory  of  Saybrook.     It  was  incorporated  as  a  parish 
in  1740,  when  it  received  its  present  name.     The  village  lies 
a  mile  to  the  west.     Its  industries  utilize  the  waterpower  from 
Cedar  Lake. 

As  early  as  1666  the  fine  waterpower  at  the  outlet  of  Cedar  Swamp 
was  ceded  by  the  colony  to  Governor  Winthrop,  who  early  "gobbled 
up"  waterpowers  throughout  New  England.  This  led  to  protest  and 
litigation,  and  Winthrop  was  obliged  to  relinquish  his  claim.  The  first 
mill  to  utilize  the  valuable  waterpower  of  the  outlet  of  Cedar  Lake  was 
built  in  1734. 

Between  the  road  and  the  river  is  the  Haddam  R.R.  station. 
Immediately  opposite  is  Lords  Island.  Through  the  township 
of  Haddam  the  road  runs  close  to  the  river  through  a  succession 
of  hamlets.  The  first  road  to  the  right  leads  to  Tylersville,  a 
charming  little  village  close  to  the  river,  from  which  a  bridge 
leads  to  East  Haddam  and  the  East  Bank  Route  (p  300). 

The  first  settler  built  his  house  to  the  north  of  Creek  Row,  where 
the  hotel  now  stands,  and  established  a  ferry  which  until  recently 
retained  the  original  name  of  Chapman's  Ferry.  Goodspeed's  ship- 
yard here  turned  out  many  vessels  in  the  J4o's  and  'so's,  which  were 
built  on  the  site  of  what  is  now  the  Gelston  House.  Many  Con- 
necticut boats  used  in  the  Civil  War  were  constructed  here. 

Two  miles  beyond,  the  State  Road  passes  successively 
through  the  hamlets  of  Shailorville,  Arnolds,  and 

18.5  HADDAM.  Alt  20  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1958.  Middlesex  Co.  Settled 
1662.  Mfg.  cotton  goods  and  agricultural  implements; 
stone  quarrying. 

The  village,  the  center  of  the  interesting  old  town,  is  alive  to 
present-day  activities  and  is  free  from  debt. 

Haddam  was  settled  in  1662  by  twenty-eight  young  men  who  took 
up  land  in  the  neighborhood. of  Walkley  Hill  and  Mill  Creek.  The 
Indian  title  is  said  to  have  been  acquired  for  thirty  cents.  In  the 
center  of  the  township  is  a  little  hamlet  known  as  Ponset  from  its 
Indian  name  of  Cockaponset.  One  of  the  early  clergy  was  Aaron 
Cleveland,  great-great-grandfather  of  President  Cleveland.  He  sub- 
sequently moved  to  Nova  Scotia,  where  he  became  converted  to  the 
Episcopal  Church.  Later  he  returned  to  America  and  died  at  the 
home  of  his  old  friend,  Benjamin  Franklin,  in  Philadelphia.  This  was 
also  the  birthplace  of  David  Dudley  Field  and  Justice  Stephen  Johnson 
Field  of  the  United  States  Supreme  Court.  They  were  the  sons  of 
David  Dudley  Field,  another  of  the  early  parsons,  who  subsequently 
moved  to  Stockbridge  (p  249). 


294  HADDAM— MIDDLETOWN 

The  road  continues  close  to  the  river  to  Higganum  (21.0), 
where  Ponset  and  Candlewood  brooks  tumble  down  to  the 
river,  supplying  waterpower.  The  name,  common  in  this 
region,  comes  from  the  Indian  Higganumpus,  "fishing-place." 

From  here  the  route  turns  inland,  cutting  off  a  bend  in  the 
river  and  climbing  between  Chestnut  Mountain  (620  ft)  and 
Bear  Hill  (650  ft)  to  a  height  of  400  feet,  and  descends  into 

28.5  MIDDLETOWN.  Alt  40  ft.  Pop  11,851  (1910),  20,749  (loc. 
est.  1916).  Hartford  Co.  Settled  1650.  Indian  name 
Mattabesett,  "carry  ing -place"  or  "portage."  Mfg.  pumps 
and  hydraulic  machinery,  rubber,  textiles,  hardware,  and 
cutlery.  Hartford  and  New  York  steamboats  stop  regularly 
during  the  season.  Value  of  Product,  $6,000,000;  Payroll, 
$3,000,000  (1915). 

Middletown,  the  seat  of  Wesleyan  University,  built  on  land 
gently  rising  from  the  great  bend  of  the  Connecticut,  is  one  of 
New  England's  most  beautiful  inland  towns.  President  John 
Adams,  traveling  through  the  Connecticut  valley,  said:  "Mid- 
dletown, I  think,  is  the  most  beautiful  of  all ...  the  more  I  see 
of  this  town,  the  more  I  admire  it."  John  Fiske,  the  historian, 
who  spent  his  boyhood  here,  said,  "In  the  very  aspect  of 
these  broad,  quiet  streets,  with  their  arching  trees,  their  digni- 
fied and  hospitable,  sometimes  quaint  homesteads,  we  see  the 
sweet  domesticity  of  the  old  New  England  unimpaired." 

The  city  lies  at  the  western  margin  of  the  Connecticut  low- 
land. Three  miles  to  the  east  the  river  enters  a  narrow,  steep- 
walled  gorge  and  flows  between  the  Haddam  Hills  of  hard, 
gneissic  rock  to  the  Sound  at  Saybrook.  From  Middletown 
the  view  across  the  lowland  and  Pecausett  Pond  to  the  head 
of  the  gorge,  where  the  river  enters  the  hills,  is  striking. 

Formerly  a  prosperous  seaport,  the  town  still  gives  some  hint 
along  Water  St.  of  wharfage  and  shipyards,  suggesting  its 
former  maritime  prosperity.  On  Main  St.  are  the  public 
buildings  and  business  houses,  the  old  Custom  House,  a  relic 
of  the  past,  and  the  Berkeley  Divinity  School  (Episcopal), 
organized  in  1854. 

High  Street,  160  feet  higher  than  the  river,  lined  with  fine  old 
houses  and  gardens  and  a  double  row  of  stately  elms,  led 
Charles  Dickens  to  declare  it  the  finest  rural  street  he  had  ever 
seen.  Fronting  on  it  is  the  campus  of  Wesleyan  University, 
which  opened  its  doors  in  1831,  the  first  of  the  Methodist 
Colleges,  and  one  of  the  first  to  offer  a  scientific  course.  Bene- 
factions have  continued  to  pour  in  until  now  the  plant  and  its 
endowments  aggregate  $3,000,000,  $i,oco,oco  having  been 
added  in  the  year  1912.  The  Orange  Judd  Hall  of  natural 
science  contains  valuable  natural  history  collections.  The 
Memorial  Chapel  has  in  the  upper  church  memorial  windows 


R.    io   §    I.     WEST  BANK:     SAYBROOK  TO  HARTFORD        295 

to  those  who  died  in  the  Civil  War  as  well  as  to  other  illustri- 
ous alumni. 

The  view  from  the  tower  embracing  the  baylike  river,  the 
city  below,  and  the  surrounding  hills,  is  delightful.  Brissot 
de  Warville,  a  French  tourist,  wrote  in  1788,  "From  the  hill 
over  Middletown  is  one  of  the  finest  and  richest  prospects  in 
America."  Southeast  are  the  spacious  grounds  and  clustered 
buildings  of  the  Industrial  School  for  Girls,  and  southwest  the 
imposing  buildings  of  the  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  with 
three  thousand  inmates.  Across  the  river  are  the  now  aban- 
doned brownstone  quarries  of  Portland.  To  the  north  the 
river  winds  its  placid  way.  Eastward  it  enters  through  a 
gateway  into  the  gorge  between  the  Haddam  Hills. 

Indian  cemeteries  and  numerous  relics  found  here  attest  the  popu- 
larity of  this  territory  with  the  Indians.  The  original  Plantation, 
six  miles  on  each  side  of  the  Connecticut,  was  purchased  from  the 
Great  Sachem  Sequasson,  or  Sowheag,  in  1650  and  1673.  Shipbuilding 
began  here  in  1670,  and  during  the  later  Colonial  days  an  extensive  and 
lucrative  trade  was  carried  on  with  the  West  Indies.  Coastwise  trade 
with  New  York  continued  until  the  abandonment  of  the  brownstone 
quarries  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  In  1776  the  prosperity  of 
its  trade  was  such  that  Middletown  had  the  largest  population  of  any 
town  in  Connecticut,  5000,  as  compared  with  New  York's  23,000  and 
Boston's  4000.  The  first  mill  was  built  here  in  1655,  and  with  the 
nineteenth  century,  manufacturing  industries  began  to  supplant  the 
declining  trade.  Today  it  is  a  remarkably  wealthy  town  for  its  size, 
with  thirty  manufacturing  plants,  employing  over  6000. 

Commodore  Macdonough,  a  resident  of  the  town,  the  hero  of  the 
naval  battle  of  the  War  of  1812  at  Plattsburg  on  Lake  Champlain 
(p  268),  is  buried  in  the  cemetery  north  of  the  R.R.  station.  It  was 
Major  Meigs  of  this  town  who,  when  with  Arnold  on  the  Kennebec 
Expedition,  was  taken  prisoner  at  Quebec,  and  later,  in  1777,  made 
the  brilliantly  successful  raid  on  the  British  at  Sag  Harbor. 

Following  Main  St.  the  road  turns  right  at  St.  John's  Church 
and  Square.  To  our  right  is  the  Union  Station.  The  route 
follows  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  for  half  a  mile,  cross- 
ing a  small  iron  bridge  and  R.R.  to  the  swampy  lowlands  of 
the  Mattabesett,  or  Little,  river. 

Cromwell  (30.5),  formerly  known  as  the  'Upper  Houses,'  be- 
came a  township  with  its  present  name  in  1851.  Near  the 
station  is  a  small  triangular  park  with  a  memorial  stone  to  the 
"Founders,  Fathers,  Pastors,  and  Patriots."  The  growing  of 
flowers  under  glass,  Easter  lilies  and  roses  in  particular,  is  the 
chief  industry  here.  William  C.  Redfield  (b.  1789),  a  marine 
engineer  of  note,  who  discovered  the  progressive  and  rotary 
motion  of  storms,  and  founded  the  Hudson  river  barge  sys- 
tem, was  a  merchant  of  this  town. 

The  road  passes  through  a  fertile  country  and  ascends  with 
fine  views  over  the  valley  to 


296  ROCKY   HILL— WETHERSFIELD 

J5.5  ROCKY  HILL.  Alt  46  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1187.  Hartford  Co. 
Inc.  1843.  Mfg.  iron,  steel,  and  crushed  stone.  Hartford- 
New  York  steamboat  daily  in  season. 

The  parish,  set  off  in  1720,  bore  the  names  successively  of 
Lexington  and  Stepney  until  the  present  name  was  adopted  in 
1826.  Captain  Thomas  Danforth  manufactured  tin  and  pew- 
ter here  in  1785,  and  one  of  his  apprentices,  Ashbel  Griswold, 
established  at  Meriden  in  1808  the  great  britannia  works 
which  yielded  him  a  fortune. 

The  road  descends  through  South  Wethersfield  to 

39.S  WETHERSFIELD.  Alt  36  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3148.  Hartford  Co. 
Settled  1634.  Indian  name  Pyquag,  "open  country."  Mfg. 
tools;  seeds.  State  prison  mfg.  shirts. 

Wethersfield  today  is  a  tranquil  residential  suburb  of  Hart- 
ford, with  broad,  elm-shaded  streets  and  greens.  It  lies  in  the 
midst  of  a  rich  agricultural  region,  especially  devoted  to  the 
growing  of  garden  seeds;  and  Wethersfield  onions  have  had  a 
reputation  for  more  than  two  centuries  and  are  still  to  be 
noted  in  all  seed  catalogs. 

The  present  church,  greatly  admired  by  Washington,  was 
built  in  1761,  modeled  after  the  Old  South  in  Boston.  Its 
Christopher  Wren  spire  lifting  above  the  trees  from  among 
the  tombstones  of  the  churchyard  presents  a  charming  pas- 
toral. The  Wethersfield  Elm,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Green,  on 
Broad  St.,  a  quarter  mile  south  of  the  church,  is  the  largest 
American  elm  in  existence,  and  perhaps  the  most  magnificent 
tree  east  of  the  Rockies.  It  has  a  girth  of  twenty-six  and  a 
half  feet  five  feet  from  the  ground. 

The  Webb  House,  long  known  as  'Hospitality  Hall,'  nearly 
opposite  the  Post  Office  on  Main  St.,  near  the  center  of  the 
town,  dates  from  1753.  At  the  time  of  the  Revolution  Joseph 
Webb  entertained  here  many  famous  men.  A  brother  of  the 
host  was  on  the  personal  staff  of  General  Washington,  and  here 
in  May,  1781,  was  held  the  historic  conference  between  General 
Washington  and  Count  De  Rochambeau  and  their  suites,  at 
which  the  campaign  of  Yorktown  was  planned.  The  house  is 
now  owned  by  Wallace  Nutting,  the  artist,  of  Framingham. 
One  of  the  rooms  still  has  the  original  wall  paper  carefully  pre- 
served. Adjoining  is  the  house  of  Silas  Deane,  who  married 
a  Webb,  and  here  attained  great  wealth  in  the  West  India 
trade.  He  became  a  member  of  the  Continental  Congress, 
and  later  was  sent  as  agent  to  Paris,  where  through  unfortu- 
nate events  his  career  was  wrecked,  and  he  died  impoverished. 

This  region  was  occupied  by  the  Mohegan  tribe,  who,  pressed  by 
the  warlike  Pequots,  in  1631  sent  several  sachems  to  Boston  from 
"the  River  Quonehtacut  which  lies  west  of  Narragansett,"  to  form  an 
alliance  with  the  English.  One  of  these,  Wahquinnicutt,  a  sagamore 
of  the  Podunk  tribe,  had  been  a  servant  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh.  Their 


R.    10   §    I.      WEST   BANK:      SAYBROOK  TO  HARTFORD        297 

description  of  the  fertile  country  led  the  adventurer  John  Oldham  to  come 
overland  in  1633  to  this  district,  where  he  was  kindly  received.  In  the 
winter  of  1634-35  a  company  of  people  from  Watertown,  discontented 
with  the  religious  and  other  rigorous  restrictions  placed  upon  them  by 
the  Bay  Colony,  and  feeling  that  it  was  becoming  overcrowded,  mi- 
grated to  the  Connecticut  valley  and  settled  here.  They  evidently 
brought  the  seeds  of  discontent  and  discord  with  them,  for  from 
Wethersfield  further  migrations  resulting  from  similar  causes  between 
1638  and  1645  settled  the  towns  of  Milford  (1639),  Stamford  (1640), 
Stratford  (1640),  Branford  (1644),  and  others,  so  that  Wethersfield 
came  to  be  the  mother  town  among  new  settlements. 

The  Dutch,  who  had   from  their  fort  a  few  miles  above   previously 
enjoyed  unmolested  the  trade  of  the  valley,  did  not  welcome  these 


THE    WEBB    HOUSE,    'HOSPITALITY    HALL/    WETHERSFIELD 


Puritan  intruders.  In  Irving's  "Knickerbocker's  History  of  New 
York"  we  read:  "The  enemy  pushed  farther  and  farther  into  his 
territories,  and  assumed  a  most  formidable  appearance  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Fort  Goed  Hoop.  Here  they  founded  the  mighty  town 
of  Piquag,  or,  as  it  has  since  been  called,  Wethersfield,  a  place  which, 
if  we  may  credit  the  assertion  of  that  worthy  historian,  John  Josselyn, 
Gent.,  'hath  been  infamous  by  reason  of  the  witches  therein.'  And 
so  daring  did  these  men  of  Piquag  become  that  they  extended  their 
plantations  of  onions,  for  which  their  town  is  illustrious,  !under  'the 
very  noses  of  the  garrison  of  Fort  Goed  Hoop — insomuch  that  the 


298  WETHERSFIELD— HARTFORD 

honest  Dutchmen  could  not  look  toward  that  quarter  without  tears  in 
their  eyes." 

A  frontier  town,  it  was  for  many  years  exposed  to  the  attacks  of  the 
Pequpts.  In  1637  two  hundred  of  them  fell  upon  the  settlement,  kill- 
ing six  men  and  three  women,  and  carrying  off  captives;  two*  maids, 
daughters  of  William  Swayne,  were  later  rescued  by  a  Dutch  trader, 
ransomed  by  Lyon  Gardiner,  and  restored  to  their  relatives. 

Wethersfield  was  a  prolific  field  for  witches.  In  1648  Mary  Johnson, 
an  old  offender,  who  had  been  whipped  for  theft  in  1641,  was  "by  her 
owne  confession"  found  guilty  of  "familiarity  with  the  devil"  and 
hanged;  and  a  few  years  later  John  Carrington  and  his  wife,  proved 
witches,  were  likewise  hanged. 

Shipbuilding  and  fishing  for  shad  and  salmon  were  important  occu- 
pations from  the  early  -days  of  the  Plantation.  Here  in  1707  were 
made  the  first  corn  brooms,  which  soon  became  conspicuous  in  the 
Yankee  peddler's  pack.  But  the  vast  onion  fields  furnished  the  chief 
occupation  and  source  of  wealth.  Kendall  in  his  "Travels"  in  1808 
remarked  that  "Wethersfield  has  a  church  built  of  brick,  and  strangers 
are  facetiously  told  that  it  was  built  of  onions.  On  explanation  it  is 
said  that  it  was  built  at  the  cost  of  the  female  part  of  the  communit3', 
and  out  of  the  profits  of  their  agriculture,"  and  Peters  in  his  fanciful 
"History"  (p  116)  writes  in  1781  that  Wethersfield  parents  "buy 
annually  a  silk  gown  for  each  daughter  above  the  age  of  seven  until 
she  is  married.  The  young  beauty  is  obliged  in  return  to  weed  a 
patch  of  onions  with  her  own  hands." 

The  Nott  family  was  prominent  in  the  early  history  of  Wethers- 
field. John  Nott,  from  Nottingham,  England,  settled  here  in  1640. 
Among  his  descendants  were  Judge  Tapping  Reeve  of  the  Litchfield 
Law  School,  and  Nathan  Hale  of  Revolutionary  fame.  Abraham 
Nott,  one  of  the  earliest  graduates  from  Yale,  in  1720,  survives  in 
tradition  as  a  strong  man.  It  is  said  that  he  could  raise  a  barrel  of 
cider  and  drink  from  the  bung-hole.  As  a  preacher  he  was  irresistible, 
and  equally  so  as  a  wrestler.  One  of  the  later  John  Notts  settled  in 
Weathersfield,  Vt.  (See  Springfield,  Vt.,  R.  43.) 

While  Wethersfield  is  today  proud  of  the  fact  that  it  has  no  public 
place  of  refreshment  for  the  weary  traveler,  in  the  old  days  it  was  well 
supplied  with  taverns.  In  1675  Richard  Smith,  the  ferryman,  kept  a 
tavern  at  the  ferry  on  the  New  London  road.  At  Stillman's  Tavern 
Washington  in  1781  held  a  consultation  with  his  officers. 

Leaving  the  town  the  route  follows  the  blue  markers  and  the 
trolley.  The  State  Penitentiary,  to  the  right,  was  located  here 
in  1827,  when  the  unfortunate  prisoners  were  removed  to  it 
from  the  old  copper  mines  and  caverns  at  Newgate.  In  the 
chapel  of  the  State  Prison  is  a  fresco  by  Miss  Genevieve 
Cowles,  who  devoted  more  than  three  years  to  this  task. 

Her  interest  was  aroused  when  designing  windows  for  Christ  Church, 
New  Haven,  the  composition  of  which  was  based  upon  the  following 
ancient  antiphon  (O  Clavis  David):  "O  Key  of  David  and  sceptre 
of  the  House  of  Israel,  Thou  that  openest  and  no  man  shutteth,  and 
shuttest  and  no  man  openeth;  come  and  loose  the  prisoner  from  the 
prison  house  and  him  that  sitteth  in  darkness  and  the  shadow  of 
death."  To  obtain  a  prisoner  as  a  model,  Miss  Cowles  came  to  Wethers- 
field. A  life  prisoner  was  found  who  consented  to  pose,  and  as  day 
by  day  she  worked  in  the  prison  and  came  to  sympathize  with  the 
unfortunates  about  her,  she  became  a  potent  spiritual  force  among 
them.  She  then  conceived  the  idea  of  painting  a  fresco  for  the  chapel 
that  might  bring  comfort  and  inspiration  to  the  inmates.  The  prisoners 


R.   10  §   I.     EAST  BANK:     OLD  LYME  TO  HARTFORD         299 

discussed  the  grouping  of  the  scene  and  pored  over  their  Bibles  until 
they  decided  that  they  wished  as  a  background  the  portrayal  of  the 
Sea  of  Galilee.  To  get  the  true  atmosphere  Miss  Cowles  spent  many 
months  in  Palestine  studying  the  Galilean  landscape  and  native 
types.  The  lettering  of  the  fresco  is  by  the  hand  of  the  life  prisoner 
who  posed  for  Miss  Cowles  at  the  beginning  of  her  prison  work. 

Just  beyond  is  a  little  old  brick  school  house,  still  in  use,  on 
our  left  as  we  turn  the  corner  toward  Hartford,  four  miles 
away.  After  passing  the  baseball  grounds,  Armsmear,  the 
estate  of  the  Colt  family,  extends  for  some  distance  on  the 
east,  and  bordering  the  river  are  the  extensive  plants  of  Colt's 
Firearms.  To  the  left,  on  Rocky  Hill,  are  the  Trinity  College 
buildings.  We  reach  the  center  of  Hartford  via  Wethersfield 
Ave.  and  Main  St. 
43.5  HARTFORD  (R.  l,p  111). 


R.  10  §  1.     East  Bank:    Old  Lyme  to  Hartford.  51.5  m. 

From  Old  Lyme  this  route  runs  northward  through  Lyme, 
East  Haddam,  Portland,  and  Glastonbury  to  East  Hartford. 
The  road  is  a  trunk  line  State  Road  incomplete  in  portions. 

From  Old  Lyme  the  State  Road  follows  northward  over 
Lord  Hill.  To  the  north  we  look  up  the  deep,  narrow  valley 
of  the  river.  To  the  east  is  Rogers  Lake  surrounded  by 
beautiful  hills  on  which  are  numerous  residences  of  old  and 
modern  times.  To  the  west  extends  the  broad  estuary  of  the 
Connecticut  with  its  numerous  islands  and  coves.  The  river 
front  is  for  the  most  part  high,  but  is  indented  by  Lords 
Cove,  a  famous  resort  for  lovers  of  duck  and  rail  shooting. 

At  the  summit  of  Lord  Hill  we  cross  the  line  into  the  town- 
ship of  Lyme,  and  the  road  descends  to  the  village  of  Hamburg 
(5.0),  at  the  head  of  Hamburg  Cove,  the  channel  of  which  has 
recently  been  deepened  by  the  Federal  Government,  making 
the  village  of  Hamburg  accessible  for  all  small  craft. 

Here  Eight  Mile  River,  coming  down  from  the  hills,  flows 
into  tidewater.  The  country  to  the  north  and  east,  is  one  of 
especial  beauty.  On  Grassy  Hill,  two  miles  east,  is  a  con- 
siderable colony  of  artists,  including  leading  members  of  the 
profession.  Nickersons  Hill  nearby  is  the  highest  spot  in  the 
county  west  of  the  Thames.  The  shores  of  Cedar,  Norwich, 
Hogg,  and  Rogers  ponds  are  lined  with  cottages  and  summer 
camps.  On  Rams  Horn  Creek  is  the  retaining  pond  of  the 
State  Fish  Hatchery.  On  Falls  River  there  is  a  birch  and 
witch  hazel  distillery,  and  a  wood  pulverizing  mill  on  Eight 
Mile  River.  During  the  spring  and  fall  the  shad  fisheries  en- 
gage many  of  the  men.  The  region,  too,  is  noted  for  the  pro- 
duction of  Devon  steers  and  working  oxen. 


300  HAMBURG— EAST   HAMPTON 

From  Hamburg  the  State  Road,  not  yet  complete,  approaches 
the  river.  To  the  west  is  Seldens  Neck  and  the  picturesque 
Selden  Cove.  We  cross  the  town  line  into  the  township  of 
East  Haddam  and  the  village  of  Hadlyme  (9.0),  with  a  steamer 
landing  a  mile  to  the  west.  There  is  a  casket  factory  here. 

12.0  EAST  HADDAM.  Pop  (twp)  2422.  Middlesex  Co.  Settled 
1662.  Mfg.  cotton  twine  and  sailcloth.  Hartford-New  York 
daily  steamboat  during  season. 

The  village  of  East  Haddam  lies  directly  on  the  river,  where 
Salmon  River  comes  down  from  the  hills.  A  bridge  across  the 
Connecticut  connects  East  Haddam  and  Moodus  station  on 
the  valley  division  of  the  N.Y.,  N.H.  &  H.  R.R.  "The  little 
old  red  school  house,"  dating  from  about  1750,  in  which  Nathan 
Hale,  then  eighteen,  taught  school  in  1773,  is  still  preserved. 

This  is  a  region  of  especial  scenic  charm,  and  on  the  abruptly 
rising  hills  are  many  homelike-appearing  residences  and  estates. 
The  hills  rise  in  Mt.  Parnassus,  three  miles  from  the  river,  to  a 
height  of  616  feet.  From  East  Haddam  the  still  uncompleted 
State  Road  leads  northward  through  the  hills  to  Moodus  (15.0). 

The  village  is  situated  on  Moodus  River,  a  swift  stream 
rising  from  Salmon  River  Cove  350  feet  in  a  distance  of  a  little 
more  than  two  and  one  half  miles.  Here  was  manufactured 
the  first  cotton  seine  twine,  and  that  is  now  the  principal  in- 
dustry, although  cotton  duck  is  also  made.  Its  name  is  con- 
tracted from  the  Indian  Machimoodus,  "the  place  of  noises." 

The  Rev.  Stephen  Hosmer  in  1729  wrote  to  a  friend  in  Boston, 
describing  these  strange  noises:  "Earthquakes  have  been  here,  as 
has  been  observed  .  .  .  for  more  than  thirty  years.  .  .  .  An  old  Indian 
was  asked  the  reason  of  the  noises  in  this  place,  to  which  he  replied, 
that  'the  Indians'  God  was  very  angry  that  the  Englishmen's  God  was 
come  there.'  Now,  whether  there  be  anything  diabolical  in  these 
things,  I  know  not.  ...  I  have  myself  heard  eight  or  ten  sounds  suc- 
cessively, and  imitating  small  arms,  in  the  space  of  five  minutes.  I 
have,  I  suppose,  heard  several  hundred  of  them  within  twenty  years; 
some  more,  some  less  terrible.  .  .  .  They  have  in  a  manner  ceased 
since  the  great  earthquake." 

On  the  night  of  May  18,  1791,  occurred  an  earthquake  so  violent 
as  to  be  felt  in  both  New  York  and  Boston.  Although  but  two  shocks 
were  felt  at  a  distance,  in  Moodus  there  were  between  twenty  and 
thirty.  The  ground  was  cracked,  walls  and  chimneys  were  thrown 
down.  An  account  written  in  1831  by  a  gentleman  who  had  resided 
here  for  "almost  thirty  years"  tells  us:  "The  awful  noises  about  which 
Mr.  Hosmer  gave  an  account  .  .  .  continue  to  the  present  time.  The 
effects  they  produce  are  various  as  the  intermediate  degrees  between 
the  roar  of  a  cannon  and  the  noise  of  a  pistol." 

The  early  white  settlers  were  as  superstitious  about  this  place  as  the 
Indians  had  been.  A  tradition  tells  of  a  "Dr.  Steele"  who  imposed 
upon  the  good  natives  with  his  magic  quackery  whereby  he  sought  to 
cure  "the  great  carbuncle"  he  had  discovered  in  the  bowels  of  the 
earth,  that  caused  these  tremors. 

The  highway,  still  under  construction,  runs  northward  over 
the  hills,  crossing  the  deep  valley  of  Salmon  River. 


R.    10  §   I.      EAST  BANK:     OLD   LYME  TO  HARTFORD         301 

22.0  EAST  HAMPTON.  Alt  411  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2390.  Middlesex 
Co.  Inc.  1767.  Mfg.  bells,  thread,  and  toys.  Hartford- 
New  York  steamboat  daily  in  season. 

This  secluded  industrial  village  lies  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the 
east  on  the  southern  boundary  of  Lake  Pocotopaug  with  its 
Twin  Islands. 

In  the  eighteenth  century  East  Hampton  was  a  center  of  iron  manu- 
factures, and  early  in  the  nineteenth  century  factories  were  established 
here  for  the  manufacture  of  bells,  brass  kettles,  pistols,  and  irons. 

Rev.  John  Norton,  the  minister  here  for  thirty  years  from  1748, 
was  one  of  the  most  famous  "fighting  parsons"  of  his  time.  A  grad- 
uate of  Yale,  he  had  first  served  at  Bernardston  (p  329)  and  had 
been  taken  captive  to  Canada.  In  1755  he  joined  the  expedition  to 
Crown  Point  as  chaplain.  The  house  of  the  Rev.  Joel  West,  who  was 
ordained  minister  here  in  1702,  still  stands.  His  pretty  wife  Betsy  was 
the  sensation  of  the  village.  She  arrived  in  a  carriage- — the  first  seen 
here,  and  she  had  the  first  carpet  that  ever  came  to  the  village.  Her 
hair  'banged,'  her  gown  of  changeable  silk  over  which  she  wore  a 
red  coat,  and  her  swansdown-trimmed  bonnet  created  sufficient  com- 
ment to  be  recorded  in  the  annals  of  the  time.  The  cradle  in  which 
her  twelve  children  were  rocked  is  still  preserved. 

The  route  turns  left,  paralleling  the  Willimantic  division  of 
the  N.Y.,  N.H.  &  H.  R.R.,  then  enters  the  hamlet  of  Cobalt 
(25.0),  which  lies  on  a  slope  200  feet  above  the  river.  A  mile 
and  a  half  to  the  south  is  Middle  Haddam,  formerly  an  im- 
portant boatbuilding  place.  From  1805  to  1835,  in  vessels, 
mostly  seagoing,  with  a  total  tonnage  of  27,000,  were  built. 

From  Cobalt  the  completed  State  Road  runs  westward  be- 
side the  river  and  100  feet  or  more  above  it.  To  the  northeast 
is  Great  Hill  (700  ft),  about  a  mile  north  of  Cobalt,  which  rises 
precipitously  from  the  pond  at  its  western  foot. 

This  hill  was  long  called  the  '  Governor's  Ring.'  Governor  John 
Winthrop  was  in  1661  granted  the  privilege  of  all  gold  mines  as  well 
as  whale  fishing  in  the  neighborhood.  There  is  little  evidence  that  he 
accumulated  wealth  from  this,  but  the  people  supposed  that  the  gold 
rings  he  wore  came  from  this  hill.  A  mine  was  opened  here  in  1762 
from  which  cobalt  ore  was  obtained,  which  was  exported  to  Europe 
and  even  to  China. 

President  Stiles  of  Yale  wrote  in  his  diary  under  date  of  Jan.  i,  1787, 
the  following  entry:  "Mr.  Erkelens  visited  me  full  of  his  Cobalt  mine 
and  his  China  voyage.  He  some  years  ago  bought  the  Governor's 
Ring,  as  it  is  called,  or  a  mountain  in  the  N.W.  corner  of  East  Haddam, 
comprehending  about  800  acres,  or  about  a  square  mile  area.  Here 
he  finds  plenty  of  Cobalt,  which  he  manufactures  into  smalt;  with 
which  is  made  the  beautiful  blue  on  China  ware,  &c.  Governor 
Trumbull  has  often  told  me  that  this  was  the  place  to  which  Governor 
Winthrop  of  N.  London  used  to  resort  with  his  servant,  and  after 
spending  three  weeks  in  the  woods  of  this  mountain,  in  roasting  ores 
and  assaying  metals  and  casting  gold  rings,  he  used  to  return  home  to 
New  London  with  plenty  of  gold.  Hence  this  is  called  the  Gov. 
Winthrop's  ring  to  this  day."  At  various  intervals  during  the  first 
half  of  the  nineteenth  century  adventurous  individuals  sank  much 
good  money  in  exploring  the  mineral  contents  of  this  hill. 


302  PORTLAND— HARTFORD 

31.0  PORTLAND.  Alt  90  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3425.  Middlesex  Co. 
Settled  1690.  Mfg.  shipbuilding  and  mineral  products. 

This  little  riverside  town  is  opposite  Middletown  (p  294), 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  bridge.  From  here  have  come 
most  of  the  brownstone  fronts  so  essential  to  respectability  in 
eastern  cities, — particularly  New  York  and  Brooklyn, — during 
the  latter  half  of  the  nineteenth  century.  As  brownstone  has 
become  less  fashionable  the  importance  of  the  quarries  has 
somewhat  declined.  The  stone  here  quarried  is  the  sandstone 
deposited  during  the  Triassic  period  in  the  broad  estuary  that 
occupied  the  Connecticut  valley  lowland  at  that  time,  which 
because  of  its  relative  softness  has  weathered  away  more 
rapidly  than  the  crystalline  rock  forming  the  Connecticut 
Valley  lowland  of  today. 

From  Portland  the  State  Road  runs  northward,  complete 
except  for  a  stretch  of  a  few  miles  near  South  Glastonbury  (40.0). 

Here  Roaring  Brook,  most  picturesque  of  streams,  comes 
tumbling  down  through  a  narrow  gorge  from  the  highlands 
above.  On  the  river  a  mile  west  of  the  high  road  and  village 
is  the  steamer  landing.  An  oldtime  ferry  connects  South 
Glastonbury  with  Rocky  Hill.  The  broad  meadow  extending 
northward  along  the  bank  of  the  river  still  bears  its  Indian 
name  of  Hanabuc,  or  Nayaug,  "noisy  water." 

Everywhere  there  is  abundant  evidence  of  glaciation,  and  much  of 
the  pasture  and  farm  land  consists  of  a  tumbled  mass  of  washed  drift 
in  the  form  of  irregular  hills  known  to  geologists  as  kames.  A  post- 
glacial terrace  lying  at  a  high  level  above  Connecticut  is  very  con- 
spicuous in  the  valley  at  Glastonbury. 

At  the  time  of  the  white  settlement  Glastonbury  was  the  site  of  a 
permanent  village,  near  the  mouth  of  Roaring  Brook,  of  a  small  band 
of  Mohawks  located  here  to  keep  watch  over  the  tributary  Indian 
tribe  and  to  make  their  lives  a  burden  by  the  fear  they  inspired.  They 
maintained  two  outlooks  on  the  summit  of  Red  Hill  and  Chestnut 
Hill,  and  in  the  bed  of  the  brook  may  still  be  seen  a  pot-hole  used  by 
the  Indians  as  a  mortar  for  pounding  samp. 

45.0  GLASTONBURY.  Alt  30  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4796.  Hartford  Co. 
Settled  1680. 

It  was  J.  H.  Hale,  the  'Peach  King,'  who  more  than  any 
other  man  in  its  history  put  Glastonbury  on  the  map.  He 
began  in  a  small  way  with  upland  farms  worth  $10  an  acre, 
and  on  this  "barren"  land  proved  that  peaches  could  be  pro- 
duced, unequaled  in  flavor,  which  would  bring  the  highest 
prices  in  the  nearby  New  England  markets.  Wealth  has 
poured  in  upon  him  and  is  utilized  in  developing  at  Fort  Valley 
in  Georgia  the  greatest  peach-growing  industry  of  the  world. 

This  portion  of  the  river  is  known  as  'The  Straits.'  Its 
channel  is  deep  and  narrow,  with  the  hills  rising  on  either  side 
abruptly  to  500  feet. 


R.  10  §  2.     EAST  BANK:    HARTFORD  TO  SPRINGFIELD       303 

The  village  lies  back  from  the  river  at  the  base  of  the  eastern 
hills.  'The  Street,'  lined  by  noble  trees  planted  before  the 
Revolution,  has  along  its  sides  many  old  houses  built  by  the 
early  settlers,  some  of  which  are  still  occupied  by  lineal  de- 
scendants. The  Hollister  and  the  Talcott  houses  have  the 
oldtime  jutting  upper  stories.  The  Welles  family  was  one  of 
the  original  proprietors  of  the  town  and  has  given  many  promi- 
nent men  to  the  nation.  The  Welles  estate  was  purchased  by 
Thomas  Welles  from  the  great  Indian  sachem  Sequasson, 
generally  known  as  Sowheag,  and  remained  in  the  family  for 
more  than  200  years.  The  beautiful  old  house  of  Gideon  Welles 
still  stands.  He  was  a  member  of  Lincoln's  cabinet  and  has 
been  brought  to  the  public  mind  of  late  by  the  recent  publica- 
tion of  his  journal  of  war  times  and  his  intimate  view  of  inner 
political  doings. 

Tobacco  and  peaches  are  important  products,  and  the  water- 
powers  of  the  streams  coursing  down  from  the  hills  are  used  for 
various  manufacturing  industries.  Once  the  Glastonburys  had 
important  shipyards  and  a  share  in  the  West  India  trade. 
The  J.  B.  Williams  Company,  manufacturers  of  shaving  soap 
and  toilet  articles,  carry  on  the  leading  industry  here  today. 
Their  plant  covers  several  acres.  A  brand  of  men's  under- 
wear, much  illustrated  in  the  backs  of  the  magazines,  is  also 
made  here.  On  the  north  hills  are  historic  lead  mines  which 
supplied  the  Continental  armies. 

The  Glastonbury  granite-gneiss  forms  the  prominent  ridges  in  this 
region,  rising  to  heights  of  600  feet.  It  is  exposed  on  the  hill  north 
of  the  Great  Hill  Pond,  where  there  is  a  quarry.  The  stone  is  a  dark 
foliated  gneiss  of  fine  texture,  with  grains  of  yellow  and  green  epidote. 
In  the  granite  are  pegmatite  veins  in  which  occur  a  great  variety  of 
minerals,  some  of  them  rare:  "albite,  quartz,  muscovite,  microcline, 
damourite,  spodumene  (and  its  alteration  products),  apatite,  micro- 
lite,  columbite,  garnet,  tourmaline,  staurolite,  eosphorite,  dickinson- 
ite,  triploidite,  rhodochroside,  reddingite,  amblygonite  (hebronite), 
vivianite,  lithiophilite,  uraninite,  fairfieldite,  fillowite,  chabazite,  kil- 
linite,  natrophilite,  hureaulite." 

From  Glastonbury  the  State  trunk  line  highway  continues 
its  level  course  through  the  meadows  to 
51. 5    HARTFORD  (R.I, p  111). 


R.  10  §  2.     East  Bank:  Hartford  to  Springfield.  27.0m. 

From  Hartford  to  Springfield  we  may  follow  either  the  West 
Bank  through  Windsor  with  a  possible  detour  through  Sufneld, 
or  the  East  Bank  through  Enfield,  Thompsonville,  and  Long- 
meadow.  This  latter  is  described  on  Route  i,  §  3  (p  118). 

Both  routes  are  State  Roads  indicated  by  blue  markers. 


304  HARTFORD— WINDSOR 

R.  10  §  2.     West  Bank:  Hartford  to  Springfield.          26.0m. 

In  leaving  Hartford  via  Windsor  Ave.  we  have  the  cemetery 
and  Keney  Park  on  our  left.  The  highway  from  here  was  the 
first  laid  out  in  Connecticut,  in  1638.  The  broad  Connecticut 
flows  placidly  between  fringing  elms.  The  river  terraces 
(p  24)  are  notably  developed.  The  rich  alluvial  soil  of  the 
broad  levels,  still  known  as  Plymouth  Meadows,  attracted  the 
first  settlement  in  this  region.  The  land  is  now  largely  given 
over  to  market-gardening,  and  the  houses  so  thickly  border 
the  road  as  to  make  almost  a  continuous  village. 

6.5  WINDSOR.  Alt  61  ft.  Pop  4178.  Hartford  Co.  Settled  1633. 
Indian  name  Matianuck.  Mfg.  electric  apparatus,  hosiery, 
underwear,  paper;  market-gardening  and  tobacco-growing. 

Old  Windsor  is  a  quiet  village  rich  in  associations  of  the 
past.  It  is  a  "lovely  old  place,  though, — home  of  perpetual 
peace,  a  staid,  frugal,  dignified  village,"  writes  Edward  Row- 
land Sill,  one  of  Windsor's  sons.  The  village  preserves  the 
line  of  the  original  settlement, — one  long  street  along  the  ter- 
race parallel  with  the  river.  It  is  divided  by  the  Farmington 
river,  which  is  crossed  by  a  covered  bridge  with  a  long  cause- 
way approach;  to  the  south  it  is  known  as  Broad  St.,  to  the 
north  as  Palisado  Ave. 

South  of  the  river  is  the  present  business  center  of  the  town 
and  the  village  Green,  formerly  known  as  Bow  Field  Green. 
Facing  the  latter  is  the  Campbell  School  for  Girls  and  on 
it  the  Loomis  Memorial  fountain.  The  old  Moore  house  of 
1690  which  formerly  faced  the  Green  now  stands  on  Elm 
St.  On  the  'Island'  south  of  the  Farmington  river  is  the 
old  Loomis  house,  and  here  was  opened  in  1914  the  Loomis 
Institute,  incorporated  in  1874,  with  an  endowment  of  over 
$2,000,000. 

Near  the  river  is  the  Eddy  Electric  Company's  plant,  now 
owned  by  the  General  Electric  Company,  employing  about  300 
hands.  In  the  adjacent  village  of  Poquonock  are  made 
hosiery,  underwear,  and  paper. 

Across  the  Farmington  river  the  tree-shaded  Palisado  Green 
is  faced  by  some  fine  gambrel-roofed  houses  of  the  eighteenth 
and  early  nineteenth  centuries,  reminiscent  of  the  time  when 
Windsor  was  a  port  of  entry  and  her  merchants  prosperously 
engaged  in  foreign  commerce. 

The  long,  low  white  house  where  Sill  was  born  on  April  29, 
1841,  looks  obliquely  across  the  Green  toward  the  old  church. 
Here  in  Windsor  his  ancestors,  maternal  and  paternal,  lived 
from  the  foundation  of  the  colony,  when  one  of  his  forebears 
was  the  first  minister  of  the  church.  Sill  never  lost  his  affec- 
tion for  the  ancient  town,  and  in  July,  1883,  he  writes: 


R.  10  §  2.     WEST  BANK:    HARTFORD  TO  SPRINGFIELD      305 

"I  am  just  back  from  a  summering  in  the  ancient  and  somnolent 
pastures  of  New  England:  some  weeks  at  my  old  home,  Windsor,  in 
the  Connecticut  River  Valley — you  remember  how  green  and  peaceful 
that  region  is,  corn-fields  and  hay-fields,  and  elm-shaded  streets  and 
maple-shaded  houses  (with  green  blinds,  mostly  shut  tight),  and  patches 
of  their  pretty  woods.  .  .  .  What  a  dignity  and  placid  reserve  about  the 
place!  The  houses  all  look  like  the  country-seats  of  persons  of  great 
respectability  who  had  retired  on  a  competence — and  retired  a  great 
ways  while  they  were  about  it.  And  what  big  houses  they  used  to 
build!  Used  to,  I  say,  because  there  isn't  a  house  over  there  that 
looks  less  than  a  thousand  years  old:  not  that  they  look  old  as  seeming 
worn  or  rickety  at  all,  but  old  as  being  very  stately  and  wise  and  im- 
perturbable. I  am  struck,  all  about  here  in  Connecticut,  with  the  well- 
kept-up  look  of  the  houses.  Paint  must  be  cheap — no,  'tisn't  that. 
Paint  is  probably  pretty  dear;  but  they  believe  in  keeping  every- 
thing slicked  up.  Yet  there  are  a  few  oldest  of  the  old  houses  that 
came  out  of  the  ark,  I  know." 

Windsor's  proudest  landmark  is  Elm  wood,  the  Ellsworth 
mansion,  two  miles  north  of  the  Green  on  the  right,  now  in  the 
care  of  the  Daughters  of  the  Revolution.  It  stands  on  the 
homestead  lot  granted  to  Josiah  Ellsworth  in  1665.  Originally 
it  was  the  home  of  Oliver  Ellsworth,  prominent  in  the  Con- 
tinental Congress,  one  of  the  framers  of  the  Constitution,  and 
appointed  by  Washington,  Chief  Justice  of  the  United  States. 
Men  great  in  the  history  of  the  country  have  been  entertained 
under  its  hospitable  roof.  Washington  was  a  frequent  visitor, 
and  in  1789  wrote  in  his  diary:  "Wednesday,  2ist.  By  prom- 
ise 1  was  to  have  Breakfasted  at  Mr.  Ellsworth's  at  Windsor, 
on  my  way  to  Springfield,  but  the  morning  proving  very  wet, 
and  the  rain  not  ceasing  till  half  after  that  hour.  I  called, 
however,  on  Mr.  Ellsworth  and  stayed  there  near  an  hour." 
According  to  tradition  Washington  used  to  amuse  the  older 
Ellsworth  children  by  dancing  the  younger  ones  on  his  crossed 
knee  while  he  sang  to  them  of  the  wonderful  "Darby  Ram." 
"The  horns  upon  this  ram,  sir, 
They  grew  up  to  the  moon, 
A  man  went  up  in  January 

And  didn't  come  down  till  June. 
And  if  you  don't  believe  me, 
And  think  I  tell  a  lie, 
Why  just  go  down  to  Darbytown 
And  see  the  same  as  I." 

When  the  early  colonists  of  Massachusetts  Bay  "became  like  a  hive 
overstocked  with  bees,  and  many  thought  of  swarming  into  new  plan- 
tations," as  Cotton  Mather  said  at  that  time,  some  of  the  more  adven- 
turous pushed  their  way  into  the  interior,  and  after  crossing  a  rugged 
region  of  uplands  and  valleys  came  upon  a  fertile  lowland  through 
which  ran  the  Connecticut  river.  Here  the  old  settlements  of  Windsor, 
Hartford,  and  Wethersfield  were  founded.  Beyond,  the  uplands  rose 
even  higher  than  before.  Thus,  as  early  as  1637  the  broad  depression 
worn  down  on  the  weak  Triassic  sandstones  between  the  resistant 
crystalline  rocks  of  the  uplands  exerted  a  determining  influence  on  the 
history  of  New  England. 


306  WINDSOR— SUFFIELD 

However  geology  may  have  determined  the  place  of  settlement, 
other  causes  gave  impetus.  The  pestilential  spirit  of  intolerance 
forbade  the  Puritans  to  grant  any  one  "freedom  to  worship  God" 
save  after  the  Puritan  manner.  Seekers  of  further  religious  liberty  were 
driven  hither,  only  to  repeat  again  the  persecution  which  had  been 
visited  upon  them.  Windsor  became  'The  Mother  of  Towns,'  in  part 
because  of  the  desire  of  her  children  to  get  out  of  leading  strings;  but 
in  justice  it  must  be  added  that  of  Windsor's  original  territory  enough 
was  sliced  off  at  one  time  and  another  to  make  eight  more  townships. 

The  first  settlement  was  made  in  1633  by  the  Plymouth  Company 
in  England,  of  which  Lord  Saye  and  Sele  and  John  Hampden  were 
stockholders.  They  equipped  a  "great  new  bark"  which  sailed  from 
Plymouth,  England,  and  up  the  Connecticut  under  the  guns  of  the 
Dutch  fort.  An  inscribed  boulder  marks  the  spot  below  the  Farm- 
ington  river  where  they  landed  and  quickly  "clapt  up"  the  house 
which  they  had  brought  ready  prepared. 

Two  years  later  parties  of  malcontents  from  Dorchester  in  the  Bay 
State  began  to  arrive  by  sea  and  overland  by  the  Old  Connecticut 
Path,  and  not  without  protest  from  the  Plymouth  men  settled  on  the 
rich  Plymouth  meadows, — and  their  numbers,  increasing  more  rapidly, 
eventually  drove  out  the  original  settlers,  more  by  might  than  right, 
though  there  was  a  more  or  less  forced  sale.  Among  these  first  settlers 
were  Matthew  Grant  and  Thomas  Dewey,  from  whom  were  directly 
descended  Gen.  U.  S.  Grant  and  Admiral  George  Dewey. 

Windsor  took  the  usual  part  of  a  frontier  town  in  the  Indian  wars, 
and  inaugurated  witch-hanging  in  1647  with  one  Alse  Young.  The 
Farmington  river,  then  known  as  the  Tunxis,  the  Indian  name  for 
"crane,"  in  its  time  was  alive  with  West  India  shipping. 

The  macadam  and  concrete  road  from  Windsor  leads  straight 
away,  except  for  a  sharp  turn  under  R.R.,  beyond  Windsor 
Green,  through  the  rich  alluvial  country  of  the  Connecticut,  and 
paralleling  the  river  from  a  quarter  to  a  half  mile  from  its  banks. 

We  are  in  the  heart  of  the  tobacco  country  in  the  region  where  it  is 
so  extensively  grown  under  shade.  Some  of  the  areas  of  white  billow- 
ing cloth  are  over  120  acres  in  extent.  This  plan  of  growing  tobacco 
under  shade  dates  only  from  1901  and  has  brought  about  a  revolu- 
tion in  tobacco  growing  in  the  Connecticut  valley.  The  Connecticut 
Tobacco  Company,  a  Hartford  corporation  with  a  capitalization  of 
$1,000,000,  grows  in  this  neighborhood  some  600  acres  under  cloth. 
The  purpose  of  shading  is  by  tempering  the  effect  of  wind  and  rain  to 
produce  climatic  conditions  more  favorable  to  the  development  of 
a  high  quality  of  wrapper  leaf.  It  costs  about  $150  an  acre  to  erect 
these  cheese-cloth  tents,  but  it  pays  because  of  the  increased  value  of 
the  leaf,  for  whereas  the  sun-grown  may  bring  twenty  cents  per  pound, 
shade-grown  wrapper  leaf  brings  from  $1.25  to  $3-00.  The  plants  are 
set  1 200  to  an  acre  and  grow  to  a  height  of  from  seven  to  nine  feet  in 
shade.  Each  leaf  is  picked  separately,  and  in  the  process  of  curing  is 
handled  some  thirty-six  times.  Incidentally,  after  curing  they  are 
sorted  into  some  twenty  or  more  grades  according  to  weight,  size, 
grade,  and  texture.  In  1914  Connecticut  raised  35,754,000  pounds 
of  tobacco,  the  most  valuable  crop  in  the  State  next  to  hay. 

12.0     WINDSOR   LOCKS.     Alt  49  ft.    Pop  (twp)  3715.     Inc.  1854. 

Mfg.  paper,  cotton  warp,  machinery,  and  underwear. 
This  is  an  industrial  town,  utilizing  the  waterpower  of  the 
Connecticut,  which  is  led  to  the  mills  through  the  old  Enfield 
canal.     The  water  is   taken  from  the  river  at  the  dam  some 


R.  10  §  2.     WEST  BANK:    HARTFORD  TO   SPRINGFIELD       307 

miles  above,  opposite  Enfield,  and  discharges  through  the  mill 
wheels  into  the  Connecticut  at  this  point.  A  suspension 
bridge  connects  the  village  with  Warehouse  Point  opposite. 
A  mile  above  is  a  great  cantilever  railroad  bridge.  A  short 
half  mile  from  the  village  are  the  Government  Fish  Hatcheries, 
where  millions  of  speckled  brook  troutlings  are  annually  hatched. 
This  is  the  old  'Pine  Meadow'  of  Colonial  days.  The  village  dates 
from  about  1829,  when  a  canal  with  locks  was  built  around  the  rapids 
here  to  facilitate  navigation  between  Hartford  and  Springfield.  The 
canal  is  now  used  only  to  supply  waterpower  to  the  mills,  but  plans 
are  on  foot  to  open  up  navigation  again  and  more  fully  utilize  the 
3O-foot  head  of  water,  which  is  capable  of  supplying  electricity  for 
half  the  State  of  Connecticut. 

Note.  From  Windsor  Locks  a  road  continues  straight  away, 
parallel  with  the  river,  through  the  township  of  Suffield,  and 
crosses  the  Massachusetts  State  line  (7.0). 

The  blue-marked  road  through  Suffield,  a  little  longer, 
affords  a  better  and  more  interesting  route.  At  the  fork 
beyond  R.R.  station  leave  trolley  and  passing  under  R.R. 
keep  right,  join  trolley  to 

16.0  SUFFIELD.  Alt  124  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3841.  Inc.  1674  by 
Massachusetts.  Mfg.  cigars;  tobacco-growing. 

Originally  called  Stony  River,  this  settlement  became  South- 
field,  and  finally  Suffield  in  1674.  It  was  spared  the  usual 
ravages  of  the  Indian  wars,  for  the  Indians  felt  they  had  been 
paid  a  good  price  for  the  land,  thirty  pounds  for  the  town  site. 
Tobacco-growing,  the  secrets  of  which  were  learned  from  the 
Indians,  has  always  been  the  chief  interest,  and  as  early  as 
1727  tobacco  passed  as  legal  tender.  Here  "genuine  Spanish 
Cigars"  were  first  made  in  New  England  by  a  Cuban  tramp  of 
intemperate  habits  who  drifted  here  in  1810. 

This  secluded  village  is  said  to  have  been  the  original  home 
of  the  Connecticut  peddlers,  who  even  before  the  Revolution 
traveled  from  Quebec  to  Mobile,  exchanging  their  tinware 
and  Yankee  notions  for  rags,  which  they  sold  to  the  paper  mills 
then  springing  up  in  the  Connecticut  valley.  Dr.  Dwight, 
more  than  a  century  ago,  observed  that 

"A  considerable  number  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  the  state 
have  for  many  years  employed  themselves  in  peddling  several  kinds 
of  articles,  of  small  value,  in  many  parts  of  this  country.  The  pro- 
prietor loads  with  these  one  or  more  horses,  and  either  travels  himself 
or  sends  an  agent,  from  place  to  place,  until  he  has  bartered  or  sold 
them.  .  .  .  The  consequences  of  this  employment,  and  of  all  others  like 
it,  are  generally  malignant.  Men  who  begin  life  bargaining  for  small 
wares  will  almost  invariably  become  sharpers." 

The  village  has  a  long,  broad  Green  through  its  center,  with 
the  usual  monument  and  D.A.R.  memorial  stone.  The  Con- 


308  SUFFIELD— WEST   SPRINGFIELD 

necticut  Literary  Institution  is  an  oldtime  academy,  and  near 
it  is  the  Kent  Memorial  Library.  The  house  now  used  by  the 
Ramapogue  Historical  Society  as  a  museum  was  formerly  a 
tavern,  one  of  the  few  in  this  neighborhood  which  does  not 
boast  of  having  entertained  George  Washington. 

Giles  Grange,  a  substantial  Colonial  dwelling  with  a  side 
porch,  was  the  home  of  Gideon  Granger,  the  first  Postmaster- 
general  of  the  United  States,  and  of  his  son  Francis,  who  later 
held  the  same  office. 

Dr.  Sylvester  Graham  (1794-1851)  was  a  native  of  Sufneld 
and  an  ardent  vegetarian.  He  aroused  the  indignation  of  the 
bakers  throughout  the  country  by  his  invention  and  advocacy 
of  a  new  kind  of  flour  and  bread  which  he  claimed  was  more 
nutritive.  Graham  bread  today  perpetuates  his  name. 

General  Phineas  Lyman,  the  commander-in-chief  of  the  Con- 
necticut troops  in  the  French  wars,  though  born  at  Durham, 
married  and  lived  here.  With  4000  Connecticut  troops  he 
was  with  Lord  Amherst  at  the  taking  of  Ticonderoga  and 
Crown  Point  in  1759,  and  later  on  commanded  the  provincial 
troops  in  the  disastrous  campaign  against  Havana  in  1762. 

From  Sufneld  we  continue  with  trolley,  turn  right  at  cross- 
roads south  of  Buck  Hill,  rejoining  the  main  road  (19.5)  about 
one  mile  south  of  the  Massachusetts  line,  where  the  blue 
markers  cease. 

Two  miles  beyond  the  State  line  we  enter  the  long  straggling 
village  of  Agawam  (23.0).  The  name  is  Indian,  meaning 
"meadow,"  and  was  formerly  applied  to  all  the  region  round 
about,  including  Springfield.  Two  miles  west  is  Feeding  Hills, 
so  called  because  the  settlers  pastured  their  cattle  on  the 
level  uplands  at  the  foot  of  Proven  Mountain,  a  long  nar- 
row ridge  of  trap  rock  running  north  and  south  with  a  height 
of  about  640  feet. 

The  road  for  Springfield  bears  right  at  the  end  of  the  village 
and  crosses  the  Connecticut  on  a  long  iron  bridge.  Above  we 
see  the  North  End  Bridge,  or  Old  Toll  Bridge,  an  ancient 
covered  wooden  structure.  To  the  south  lies  Forest  Park,  the 
gift  of  Everett  Barney  of  Barney  and  Berry  Skate  fame,  whose 
factory,  residence,  and  mausoleum  may  be  seen  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. We  follow  Pecousic  Ave.  and  Main  St.  to  the  heart  of 
the  city. 

26.0     SPRINGFIELD  (R.  1,  p  121). 

Note.  The  direct  route  up  the  west  bank  curves  left  through 
crossroads  and  turns  right  at  the  hilltop  beyond  into  Mit- 
tineague  and  West  Springfield.  Turn  right  on  Elm  St.,  and 
left  at  the  bridge  entrance,  along  the  west  bank. 


R.  10  §  3.     WEST  BANK:   SPRINGFIELD  TO  GREENFIELD     309 

R.  10    §3.     West  Bank:  Springfield  to  Greenfield.        37.0m. 

The  north  and  south  State  Highway,  marked  by  blue  bands 
on  poles  and  posts,  crosses  the  river  at  Springfield  and  runs 
northward  on  the  terraces  high  above  the  river  and  overlooking 
it,  commanding  fine  views  of  the  river  and  of  Mts.  Tom, 
Nonotuck,  and  Holyoke,  peaks  of  the  Holyoke  range  ahead. 
From  the  college  town  of  Northampton  the  route  follows 
northward  over  broad  intervales,  the  richest  agricultural  region 
of  New  England.  In  many  places  the  river  terraces  are  so 
regular  as  to  seem  almost  artificial.  They  show  the  levels  of 
the  river  in  prehistoric  times. 

From  Springfield  follow  Main  St.  north,  bearing  left  on 
Plainfield  St.  and  turning  sharp  right  on  West  St.  across  the 
long  iron  bridge  over  the  Connecticut  into 

1.5  WEST  SPRINGFIELD.  Alt  60  ft.  Pop  9224  (1910),  11,339 
(1915).  Hampden  Co.  Settled  1655.  Mfg.  paper  and  wood 
pulp,  oil  and  gasoline  tanks,  ice;  market-gardening. 

The  broad  Common  was  used  in  Colonial  days  as  a  training 
ground  and  a  grazing  place  for  the  village  cattle.  Burgoyne's 
captive  army  encamped  here  on  their  way  to  Boston.  Beside 
it  is  the  old  Day  house  (1754),  preserved  by  the  Ramapogue 
Historical  Society  as  a  Colonial  Museum  and  a  center  for 
social  and  historical  work.  On  the  east  end  of  the  Common 
was  formerly  a  shipyard  where  boats  were  made  for  use  on 
the  Connecticut  river. 

The  steeple  of  the  old  white  meeting  house  to  the  west  on 
'Mount  Orthodox'  is  a  conspicuous  landmark  for  miles 
around.  The  church  was  built  in  1800,  and  since  1900  has 
been  used  as  a  headquarters  of  the  local  Historical  Society. 
A  short  distance  above  Mt.  Orthodox  is  the  home  of  the 
Springfield  Country  Club,  a  model  of  its  kind.  This  is  the 
center  of  the  social  life  of  greater  Springfield;  its  grounds  are 
on  a  commanding  height  overlooking  miles  upon  miles  of  the 
river  valley. 

The  National  Dairy  Show  will  be  held  east  of  Chicago  for  the 
first  time,  from  October  1 2th  to  2  ist,  on  the  grounds  of  the  East- 
ern States  Agricultural  and  Industrial  Exposition,  Inc.  This 
latter  is  a  permanent  exposition  intended  to  educate  the  public  in 
New  England's  need  of  organized  agriculture  to  increase  home- 
grown food  supplies  for  the  millions  of  industrial  workers  in 
New  England  cities. 

The  West  Springfield  freight  yards  are  the  most  important 
clearing  tracks  for  cars  on  the  New  York  Central  lines  east  of 
Buffalo  and  contain  forty-one  miles  of  tracks,  bringing  the 
village  an  annual  tax  of  $22,000. 

The  region  about  West  Springfield  has  been  well  called  the 


310  WEST    SPRINGFIELD— HOLYOKE 

'  Garden  Spot  of  the  Valley,'  as  market-gardening  has  long  been 
a  lucrative  source  of  income.  In  Thanksgiving  week  125,000 
roots  of  celery  are  shipped  from  here,  much  of  it  grown  from 
imported  French  seed  at  $i  an  ounce,  which  proves  more  profit- 
able than  native  seed  at  15  cents,  as  it  gives  an  earlier  crop. 

The  State  Highway,  marked  by  blue  bands,  runs  along  the 
river  through  Ashley ville  and  Ingleside,  avoiding  the  center  of 
Holyoke,  which  lies  in  a  bend  of  the  river  to  the  right  (9.0). 

8.7  HOLYOKE.  Pop  57,730  (1910),  60,816  (1915);  20,000  foreign- 
born.  Hampden  Co.  Settled  1745.  Inc.  1850.  Mfg.  writ- 
ing paper,  envelopes,  blank  books,  silk,  machinery,  screws, 
wire,  belting,  cotton  and  woolen  goods.  Value  of  product, 
(1913)  $44,470,000;  Payroll,  $9,186,000. 

Holyoke,  commonly  known  as  the  'Paper  City,'  is  the  largest 
producer  of  fine  writing  paper  and  envelopes  in  the  United 
States.  Over  5000  people  are  employed  in  twenty-six  fac- 
tories, and  the  daily  output  is  500  tons  in  this  one  industry. 
The  cotton  and  woolen  industries  located  here  employ  5000 
hands.  All  of  these  factories  take  full  advantage  of  the 
30,000  h.p.  of  the  South  Hadley  falls.  It  is  also  a  tobacco- 
growing  region. 

The  South  Hadley  falls,  which  furnish  the  fine  waterpower 
here,  attracted  the  attention  of  Timothy  Dwight  early  in  the 
nineteenth  century,  who  speaks  of  "the  fantastic  beauty  and 
sublime  majesty  of  these  Falls."  The  first  settlement  was  by 
a  venturesome  family  of  Rileys  about  a  decade  before  the 
outbreak  of  King  Philip's  War.  Originally  a  part  of  Spring- 
field, it  was  known  as  'Ireland  Parish,'  but  later  named  for 
Elizur  Holyoke,  a  man  of  wealth  and  prominence  in  the 
Springfield  of  that  time. 

The  importance  of  Holyoke  as  an  industrial  center  came 
with  the' damming  of  the  Hadley  falls  in  1848.  Shrewd  pro- 
moters, among  whom  the  Perkinses,  Lymans,  and  Dwights 
were  conspicuously  prominent,  foreseeing  the  importance  of 
this  waterpower,  gobbled  it  up,  first  securing  the  necessary 
lands  from  the  farmers  through  an  affable  and  noncommittal 
agent.  The  dam  when  completed  in  1848  created  the  greatest 
waterpower  that  had  up  to  that  time  ever  been  harnessed. 
It  was  an  unprecedented  undertaking  and  naturally  met  with 
difficulties.  The  story  of  the  inauguration  and  collapse  is 
graphically  told  in  telegrams  sent  to  the  Boston  office: 

"10  A.M.     Gates  just  closed:   water  filling  behind  dam." 

"12  M.     Dam  leaking  badly." 

"2  P.M.     Stones  of  bulkhead  giving  way  to  pressure." 

"3.20  P.M.  Your  old  dam's  gone  to  hell  by  way  of  Willi- 
mansett." 

The  present  great  stone  dam,  completed  in  1904  at  a  cost 


R.  10  §  3.     WEST  BANK:  SPRINGFIELD  TO  GREENFIELD     311 

of  $750,000,  is  1020  feet  long,  38  feet  high,  and  34  feet  wide 
at  the  base.  Behind  it  the  water  generates  30,000  h.p.,  which 
is  distributed  to  the  mills  by  a  canal  system  five  miles  long. 

The  streets  of  the  city  have  been  laid  out  largely  in  relation 
to  the  canal  system.  There  is  a  group  of  handsome  public 
buildings  of  which  perhaps  the  finest  is  the  City  Hall,  of  rough 
split  granite  with  a  tower  215  feet  high.  Although  Holyoke 
is  a  modern  city  there  are  a  few  landmarks  of  early  days. 

Holyoke  started  its  manufacturing  career  as  a  cotton  mill  city, 
but  the  combination  of  a  great  waterpower,  the  wood  pulp  of  the 
Hoosac  forests,  and  the  waste  rags  of  the  textile  industries,  made  it  a 
great  paper  center.  It  is  one  of  the  most  progressive  cities  in  New 
England,  and  to  the  fore  in  civic  improvements.  It  owns  and  operates 
the  water  works  and  gas  and  electric  plants. 

The  first  paper  mill  was  built  by  Joseph  C.  Parsons  during  the  'so's 
of  the  last  century.  From  that  time  on  the  mills  increased  rapidly. 
In  i8gg,  at  the  height  of  the  trust-making  boom,  just  before  trust 
busting  became  popular,  seventeen  paper  mills  of  Holyoke  consolidated 
with  twelve  mills  located  elsewhere,  forming  the  American  Writing 
Paper  Company,  with  a  paper  capital  of  $25,000,000,  one  of  the  worst 
examples  of  over-capitalization  and  high  finance  inflation  on  record. 
Since  then  the  stocks,  and  even  the  bonds,  have  been  quoted  in 
fractions.  The  United  States  Envelope  Company  of  Springfield  and 
Holyoke,  representing  the  consolidation  of  eleven  large  factories,  manu- 
factures more  envelopes  than  any  other  concern  in  the  world.  The 
American  Thread  Company  and  the  Skinner  Silk  Mills  are  large  con- 
cerns in  the  textile  industry  of  Holyoke. 

On  Northampton  St.  is  the  Brown  house,  probably  the 
oldest  in  the  city,  and  further  north  the  old  tavern,  once  a 
half-way  house  on  the  stage  route  between  Springfield  and 
Northampton.  Still  further  north  on  the  same  street  is  the 
Fairfield  homestead.  These  houses  were  built  in  1774  while 
the  territory  was  a  parish  of  Springfield. 

Just  beyond  Holyoke  a  road  to  the  left  over  the  shoulder 
of  Mt.  Tom  leads  direct  to  Easthampton.  The  blue-marked 
highway  continues  by  the  river  and  passes  through  the  gap  in 
the  Holyoke  Range. 

Mt.  Tom  (1214  ft),  the  highest  mountain  in  this  part  of  New 
England,  rises  from  the  river  valley  between  Holyoke  and 
Easthampton.  This  is  the  culmination  of  a  long  ridge  of  hard 
trap  rock  rising  from  the  alluvial  plain  which  resisted  the 
wearing-down  process  of  glacial  action.  From  Holyoke  there 
is  an  electric  railway  to  the  summit,  where  there  is  a  hotel. 
The  beautiful  and  extensive  view  of  the  Connecticut  valley 
is  justly  considered  to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  Massachusetts, 
although  perhaps  it  is  not  as  striking  as  the  view  from  Mt. 
Holyoke  (954  ft)  across  the  valley.  Mountain  Park  with  an 
area  of  400  acres,  the  largest  street-railway  park  in  the  world, 
extends  from  the  base  of  Mt.  Tom  to  the  Connecticut.  An 
inclined  railway  and  a  good  road  lead  to  the  summit. 


312  HOLYOKE— NORTHAMPTON 

Note.  From  Mt.  Tom  R.R.  station  (14.5)  a  detour  leads 
by  the  road  to  the  left  to  Easthampton  (3.0),  whence  there  is  a 
direct  highway  to  Northampton  (7.0). 

EASTHAMPTON.  Pop  8524  (1910),  9845  (1915).  Hampshire  Co. 
Settled  1725.  Indian  name  Nashawannuck.  Mfg.  cotton, 
rubber  thread,  artificial  stone,  brick  and  tile,  felt,  foundry 
and  machine  shop  products,  and  elastic  woven  goods; 
dyeing  and  finishing  textiles. 

This  is  a  tree-shaded  town  in  the  rich  intervales  of  the  river 
valley,  guarded  on  the  east  by  Mt.  Tom  and  on  the  west  by 
Mt.  Pomeroy  (1233  ft),  noted  for  the  manufacture  of  buttons 
and  elastic  goods,  and  the  home  of  Williston  Seminary. 

With  its  line  of  factories  hidden  by  trees  Easthampton  pre- 
sents a  rare  mingling  of  New  England  industrialism  with  New 
England  beauty.  The  fine  tree-lined  main  street  leads  to  the 
Park,  before  which  is  the  little  Mayher  fountain.  At  the 
corner  of  Prospect  and  Pleasant  Sts.  is  the  Ferry  house,  proba- 
bly the  oldest  in  the  town.  The  cotton  mills  of  the  West 
Boylston  Company  at  the  north  end  of  the  town  form  one  of 
the  most  beautifully  located  plants  in  New  England.  It  is 
on  the  site  of  the  cotton  mill  established  by  Samuel  Williston. 
About  seventy-five  years  ago  the  town  was  waked  up  by  Samuel 
Williston,  who  started  his  career  by  covering  buttons  at  home,  with 
his  wife's  aid.  He  invented  machinery  for  the  process  and  finally 
built  a  large  button  factory,  founding  the  concern  now  known  as  the 
United  Button  Company.  He  also  started  cotton  mills  and  the  rubber 
thread  industry  here.  His  various  enterprises  brought  him  a  large 
fortune.  In  1841  he  founded  Williston  Seminary,  and  afterwards 
gave  large  sums  to  Amherst  College,  Mount  Holyoke,  etc.  East- 
hampton became  a  community  of  thriving  industries,  largely  due  to 
the  inventive  genius  and  energy  of  one  man. 

The  Nashawannuc  Manufacturing  Company  was  the  first 
concern  in  the  country  to  introduce  woven  threads  into  rubber 
goods  to  make  them  elastic.  Other  concerns  are  the  Glendale 
Elastic  Fabrics  Company,  the  Co' ton  Manufacturing  Company, 
elastic  goods,  the  Easthampton  Rubber  Thread  Company,  the 
Dibble  &  Warner  Company,  wellknown  makers  of  suspenders, 
the  West  Boylston  Company,  cotton  yarns  and  fabrics,  and 
the  Hampton  Mills  Company,  bleachers  and  dyers.  The 
elastic  goods  industry  represents  about  half  the  total  product. 
From  Easthampton  a  State  Road  leads  north  direct  to 
Northampton,  entering  on  South  St. 

The  State  Highway  from  Mt.  Tom  crosses  the  famous  Ox 
Bow  of  the  river.  This  was  formerly  the  ship  channel. 

17.0     NORTHAMPTON.     Alt   124  ft.     Pop   19,431    (1910),   21,654 
(1915).    Hampshire  Co.    Settled  1654.    Indian  name  Nono- 
tuck.    Mfg.  cutlery,  baskets,  silk  stockings,  and  thread. 
Northampton,  a  famous  educational  center,  and  the  home  of 


R.  10  §  3.     WEST  BANK:  SPRINGFIELD  TO  GREENFIELD     313 

Smith  College,  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  midst  of  the  fertile 
intervales  of  the  west  side  of  the  valley.  This  most  beautiful 
city  of  the  'college  county'  is  noted  for  the  fine  buildings  of 
its  schools,  its  magnificent  elms,  and  fine  old  estates. 

The  buildings  of  Smith  College  have  a  fine  situation  on  a 
hill  behind  a  fringe  of  elms  and  form  perhaps  the  chief  attrac- 
tion of  Northampton.  In  John  M.  Greene  Hall,  one  of  the 
more  recent  and"  conspicuous  of  the  buildings,  is  the  new 
memorial  organ,  said  to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  the  United 
States.  The  college  was  founded  and  endowed  by  Miss  Sophia 
Smith  of  Hatfield  in  1871,  and  today,  with  an  enrollment  of 
1724  students,  it  is  the  largest  college  for  women  in  the  world. 
Facing  the  college  grounds  are  the  Burnham  School  for  Girls 
(p  8co)  and  Miss  Capen's  School. 

West  of  the  college  grounds  is  Paradise  Pond,  so  named  by 
Jenny  Lind.  Here  the  college  girls  enjoy  canoeing  in  the 
Spring  and  Fall,  and  hold  their  ice  carnivals  in  the  winter.  On 
one  side  is  the  estate  of  Mr.  George  B.  McCallum,  the  silk 
stocking  manufacturer. 

Mr.  George  Cable  writes:  "The  bluffs  in  'Paradise'  suddenly  sink 
to  the  river  seventy  feet  below,  canopied  and  curtained  by  a  dense 
foliage  of  pine  and  hemlocks.  .  .  .  The  sounds  of  nature  alone  fill  the 
air;  song  of  birds,  chirp  of  insects,  the  rattle  of  the  kingfisher,  the  soft 
scamper  of  the  chipmunk,  the  drone  of  the  bees,  or  the  pretty  scoldings 
of  the  red  squirrel.  A  boat  rowed  by  college  girls  may  pass  in  silence, 
or  with  a  song.  ...  Of  trees  and  perennial  shrubs  and  vines  alone,  I 
have  counted  in  'Paradise'  more  than  seventy  species." 

Here  is  Tarryawhile,  the  home  of  Mr.  Cable,  on  Dryads 
Green,  just  off  Elm  St.  It  is  a  southern  Colonial  house,  sur- 
rounded by  well-ordered  lawns.  Mr.  Cable,  the  master  of  the 
Creole  story,  deserted  New  Orleans  for  Northampton  in 
1886.  Here  he  wrote  "The  Cavalier"  and  many  of  his  later 
works.  He  has  been  a  moving  spirit  in  civic  life,  and  is  the 
honored  president  of  the  People's  Institute,  formerly  the  Home 
Culture  Clubs. 

The  Old  College  Bookstore,  established  in  1797,  has  had 
many  famous  people  at  its  counters.  Clifton  Johnson,  the 
wellknown  writer,  was  a  clerk  here  for  a  time.  Like  many  of 
the  cities  of  Europe,  Northampton  has  a  municipal  theater,  the 
only  one  in  the  United  States,  in  its  Academy  of  Music,  which 
was  given  to  the  city  by  the  late  Mr.  E.  H.  R.  Lyman. 

Meeting  House  Hill  was  for  generations  the  center  of 
Northampton  political  and  religious  life.  In  the  present  Meet- 
ing House  is  a  bronze  memorial  tablet  with  a  bas-relief  of 
Jonathan  Edwards,  who  was  pastor  from  1727  to  1750.  In 
the  former  old  brick  court  house  Webster  and  Choate  have 
held  forth.  The  beautiful  old  church  that  stood  on  this  site 


314  NORTHAMPTON— HATFIELD 

was  burned  down  in  1876.  Jenny  Lind  during  her  triumphal 
tour  of  America  gave  a  concert  here  in  the  old  church  in  June, 
1851.  She  was  charmed  with  Northampton,  and  returned  in 
January,  1852,  after  she  had  married  the  German  pianist 
Otto  Goldschmidt  in  Boston.  She  passed  her  honeymoon  at 
the  Round  Hill  Hotel.  On  Round  Hill  north  of  the  college 
are  beautiful  estates.  The  Round  Hill  School,  founded  in 
1823  by  the  historian  George  Bancroft  and  the  author  J.  G. 
Cogswell,  was  located  here  in  a  building  afterward  used  as  a 
hotel.  The  two  had  just  returned  from  German  universities 
and  here  for  the  first  time  introduced  many  features  of  the 
German  educational  scheme  which  have  since  been  adopted 
throughout  the  country  in  our  secondary  schools. 

Here  also  is  the  Clarke  Institute  for  the  Deaf,  founded  and 
endowed  in  1867  by  John  C.  Clarke,  a  wealthy  merchant  of  the 
city.  About  a  mile  to  the  southwest  is  the  State  Hospital  for 
the  Insane,  a  group  of  fine  buildings  conspicuously  situated  on 
a  hill  which  slopes  gradually  to  Mill  River. 

The  college  community  has  fostered  the  development  of 
many  interesting  eating-places, — The  Copper  Kettle,  The 
Lonesome  Pine,  and  the  wellknown  Rose  Tree  Inn,  which 
"has  no  branches"  but  "blooms  all  the  year."  The  latter, 
in  the  eastern  part  of  the  town,  just  off  the  trolley  line  to 
Amherst,  is  a  long,  low  rustic  house  quite  covered  with 
rambler  roses.  The  owner,  Mme.  A.  de  Naucaze,  manifests 
an  amusing  and  profitable  eccentricity  in  such  notices  as 
"We  can  accommodate  any  number  of  guests  at  any  time.  If 
you  descend  in  an  aeroplane  we  will  be  ready  for  you,  but  we 
much  prefer  to  have  you  telephone."  "Take  the  cash  and 
let  the  credit  go." 

The  Smith  Agricultural  School,  opened  in  1908,  occupies  a 
handsome  building  on  Locust  St.  The  boys  receive  an  in- 
dustrial and  agricultural  training  and  the  girls  a  training  in 
domestic  science.  Oliver  Smith  of  Hatfield  died  in  1845 
leaving  the  sum  of  $370,000  to  establish  what  are  now  known 
as  the  Smith  Charities. 

The  region  known  as  Northampton  was  bought  from  the  Indians 
in  1653,  and  granted  the  following  year  by  John  Pynchon,  Elizur 
Holyoke,  and  Samuel  Chapin,  the  'three  mighties'  of  Springfield,  to 
the  original  planters,  twenty-one  in  number.  The  original  settlement 
was  within  the  area  bounded  by  Market,  Hawley,  Pleasant,  and  King 
Sts.  The  Indians  were  friendly  up  to  the  time  of  King  Philip's  War, 
but  from  then  Northampton  was  subject  to  frequent  raids.  In  1690 
the  town  was  surrounded  by  palisades,  and  during  the  French  and 
Indian  War,  in  1745,  it  was  strengthened  by  log  towers  called  "  mounds." 

Northampton  has  produced  a  rare  group  of  exceptional  men  and  is 
rich  in  literary  associations.  The  three  Timothy  D wights  were 
natives  of  the  town.  The  third  became  President  of  Yale  College  and 
wrote  his  interesting  travels,  the  first  guide  book  of  New  England. 


R.  10  §  3.     WEST  BANK:  SPRINGFIELD  TO  GREENFIELD      315 

The  Whitneys,  related  to  the  Dwights,  were  quite  as  eminent.  Josiah 
Dwight  Whitney,  the  prominent  Harvard  geologist,  for  whom  the 
highest  mountain  in  the  United  States  is  named,  and  William  D. 
Whitney,  Yale's  great  philologist,  were  brought  up  in  the  Whitney 
homestead  on  King  St.,  which  occupies  the  site  of  Jonathan  Edwards' 
old  house,  and  before  which  stood  the  famous  Edwards  elm.  On 
Pleasant  St.  is  the  old  house  erected  in  1684  by  Parson  Stoddard,  and 
occupied  during  his  long  ministry  of  fifty-seven  years. 

Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  was  a  lover  of  Northampton,  and  many  of 
the  scenes  of  "Elsie  Venner"  are  laid  about  here.  He  says  of  the  city: 
"She,  with  her  fair  meadows  and  noble  stream,  is  lovely  enough,  but 
she  owes  her  surpassing  attraction  to  those  twin  summits  which  brood 
her  like  living  presences,  looking  down  into  her  streets  as  if  they  were 
her  tutelary  divinities.  .  .  .  Happy  is  the  child  whose  first  dreams  of 
heaven  are  blended  with  the  evening  glories  of  Mount  Holyoke,  when 
the  sun  is  firing  its  treetops  and  gilding  the  white  walls  that  mark  its 
one  human  dwelling!" 

Edmund  C.  Stedman,  too,  loved  Northampton.  His  lines,  written 
from  High  Ridge,  Williamsburg,  pay  tribute.  The  two  "warders"  are 
Mt.  Tom  and  Mt.  Holyoke. 

"There  still  the  giant  warders  stand, 

And  watch  the  currents  downward  flow, 
And  westward  still  with  steady  hand 
The  river  bends  her  silver  bow." 

Dr.  J.  G.  Holland  chose  the  'Meadow  City,'  as  Northampton  has 
picturesquely  been  called,  for  the  opening  scene  of  his  "Kathrina": 

"Queen  village  of  the  meads 
Fronting  the  sunrise  and  in  beauty  throned, 
With  jeweled  homes  around  her  lifted  brow 
And  coronal  of  ancient  trees: 
Northampton  sits,  and  rules  her  pleasant  realm." 

Elm  and  Locust  Streets  lead  to  the  suburb  of  Florence,  and 
on,  via  Williamsburg  and  Cummington,  to  Ashfield  and  Pitts- 
field,  Route  14.  Bridge  Street,  crossing  the  river,  follows  the 
State  Highway  to  Hadley  and  Amherst  (p  323). 

From  Northampton  the  route  runs  northward  on  King  St., 
crossing  under  and  over  R.R.,  following  the  blue  bands  and 
keeping  to  the  west  of  R.R.  tracks. 

Note.  Beyond  Northampton  (19.5)  a  good  road  leads  east 
to  Hatfield  (2.5). 

HATFIELD.  Alt  149  ft.  Pop  1986  (1910),  2630  (1915).  Hampshire 
Co.  Inc.  1670.  Indian  name  Capawonk.  Mfg.  electrical 
machinery,  and  foundry  and  machine-shop  products. 

Hatfield,  a  pleasant  old  historic  village,  lies  in  the  midst  of 
the  level  meadows  of  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  a  short 
distance  above  Hadley,  across  the  river.  It  seems  to  be 
always  'cleaned  up'  to  make  a  good  appearance  before 
strangers.  This  region  was  foimcrly  noted  for  sleek  cattle  and 
still  produces  fine  tobacco  crops. 

The  meeting  house  with  four  beautiful  Ionic  columns  in 
front  was  erected  in  1849,  replacing  an  earlier  one  which  was 
moved  from  the  present  site  and  is  now  used  as  a  barn  behind 


316  HATFIELD— DEERFIELD 

F.  H.  BardwelTs  residence.  It  was  in  this  old  church  that  the 
representatives  of  fifty  towns  met  in  the  August  convention 
and  drew  up  their  list  of  twenty-five  "grievances"  that  pre- 
ceded Shays'  Rebellion. 

There  are  some  fine  old  houses  with  interesting  doorways. 
At  the  corner  of  Elm  and  Prospect  Sts.  is  the  Hubbard  resi- 
dence, formerly  an  inn,  with  well-proportioned  rooms  and  fine 
old  furniture.  On  Main  St.  is  Mr.  Reuben  F.  Wells'  gambrel- 
roofed  house,  more  than  two  centuries  old.  On  the  right  at 
the  extreme  southern  end  of  the  street  is  the  Mrs.  Chloe 
Morton  house  (1750),  with  a  fine  doorway.  The  old  Colonial 
residence  in  which  Sophia  Smith  and  her  sisters  lived  for  so 
many  years  still  stands  on  Main  St.  This  house,  built  in  the 
architecture  of  about  1780,  the  birthplace  of  Sophia  Smith, 
founder  of  Smith  College,  has  lately  been  purchased  by  the 
Alumnae  Association,  restored  by  the  Class  of  '96  as  a  reunion 
gift,  and  will  be  used  as  a  place  of  rest  and  recreation  for 
alumnae  and  undergraduates.  Opposite  is  the  'Partridge' 
elm,  now  much  patched  with  plaster.  This  tree  is  sometimes 
called  the  'Jenny  Lind'  elm  because  of  a  tradition  that  the 
famous  singer  visited  Hatfield  while  at  Northampton,  and 
sang  a  ballad  to  the  townspeople  under  the  tree  The  next 
house  north,  with  the  Colonial  porch,  was  built  by  Sophia 
Smith,  and  here  she  spent  the  last  years  of  her  life.  The  next 
house  beyond  is  the  home  of  Mr.  Daniel  G.  Wells,  president  of 
the  Smith  Charities.  The  house  was  formerly  a  tavern,  and 
lotteries  were  held  in  it  to  raise  money  for  the  building  of 
bridges  across  the  river.  Just  beyond  and  across  the  street  is 
the  Billings  house  with  a  Colonial  doorway.  Next  to  this  is 
the  Memorial  Hall  given  to  the  town  by  the  late  Samuel  H. 
Dickinson,  containing  a  collection  of  early  town  relics.  The 
Hatfield  Inn  at  the  north  end  of  the  street  was  opened  as  a 
tavern  about  1824. 

Oliver  Smith,  uncle  of  Sophia,  lived  at  the  inn.  He  was  a  thrifty 
country  banker,  charitable,  but  saving.  He  lived  on  about  $600  a 
year,  and  on  his  death  in  1845  he  left  the  most  of  his  estate,  valued  at 
some  $370,000,  an  immense  fortune  for  the  time  and  place,  to  the 
"Smith  Charities"  (p  314).  The  remarkable  will  was  contested  by 
Mr.  Smith's  relatives,  but  they  failed  to  break  it.  In  this  famous 
controversy  the  trustees  employed  Daniel  Webster,  and  the  con- 
testants Rufus  Choate.  Miss  Sophia  Smith,  the  niece,  who  died  in 
1870,  left  $75,000  for  the  building  and  endowment  of  Hatfield  Academy, 
and  $500,000  for  the  foundation  of  the  famous  woman's  college  at 
Northampton. 

The  town  was  separated  from  Hadley  in  1670.  In  1675  Hatfield 
was  attacked  by  800  Indians  and  desperately  defended,  though  many 
of  the  houses  were  burned.  The  settlers  were  prepared  for  the  attack, 
for  an  old  squaw  taken  captive  had  divulged  the  plan.  Captain 
Moseley,  who  was  in  command,  in  reporting  to  the  GovetaQI  9.1  Boston, 
tersely  tells  of  her  fate: 


R.  10  §3.     WEST  BANK:  SPRINGFIELD  TO  GREENFIELD     317 

"The  aforesaid  Indian  was  ordered  to  be  tourne  in  peeces  by  dogs 
&  shee  was  so  delt  withall." 

The  plan  of  attack  as  designed  by  King  Philip  was  explained  by 
Roger  Williams,  writing_  from  Providence  to  the  Bay  State  Governor, 
"by  trayning,  and  drilling,  and  seeming  flight"  into  "such  places  as 
are  full  of  long  grass,  flags,  sedge  &c.  and  then  environ  them  round 
with  fire,  smoke,  and  bullets."  "Some  say  no  wise  soldier  will  be  so 
catcht."  But  several  of  Moseley's  mounted  scouts  were  just  so 
"catcht"  and  carried  off  as  prisoners.  One  of  the  unhappy  men  was 
afterward  horribly  tormented.  They  burned  his  nails,  and  put  his 
feet  to  scald  against  the  fire,  and  drove  a  stake  through  one  of  his  feet 
to  pin  him  to  the  ground.  Needless  to  say,  he  died  from  his  torments. 

The  State  Highway  continues  northward  parallel  with  R.R. 
and  distant  from  the  river  about  two  miles  through  West  Hat- 
field,  North  Hatfield,  Whately,  and  South  Deerfield  (28.5). 

To  the  right  are  North  and  South  Sugarloaf,  isolated  rock 
masses,  the  summits  of  which  command  magnificent  views. 
On  the  face  of  South  Sugarloaf  a  shelf  of  rock  juts  out,  called 
King  Philip's  Chair,  from  the  legend  that  he  here  watched  the 
ambuscade  of  his  planning.  Just  beyond  the  village  the 
highway  crosses  Bloody  Brook,  and  here  a  shaft  of  stone  marks 
the  site  of  where  "The  Flower  of  Essex"  was  annihilated. 
On  Sept.  1 8,  1675,  to  quote  the  old  chronicler,  "a  choice  com- 
pany of  young  men,  the  very  flower  of  Essex  County,  none  of 
whom  were  ashamed  to  speak  with  the  enemy  in  the  gate,  under 
command  of  Captain  Lothrop,"  were  convoying  a  train  of  ox 
teams  hauling  wheat  from  Deerfield  to  Hadley.  They  stopped 
along  the  way  to  refresh  themselves  from  the  abundance  of 
wild  grapes  which  grew  along  the  stream.  A  thousand  hidden 
warriors — Nipmucks,  Wampanoags,  and  Pocumtucks — with 
fierce  warwhoops  suddenly  poured  a  murderous  volley  upon 
them  from  the  forest.  Lothrop  and  more  than  sixty  of  his 
men  were  slain.  Since  then  the  sluggish  stream  has  borne  its 
crimson  name.  The  common  grave  in  which  the  dead  were 
buried  is  marked  by  a  flat  stone,  now  in  a  front  yard  close  to 
the  sidewalk  of  the  South  Deerfield  main  street.  At  the  dedi- 
cation of  the  battle  monument  in  1835,  Edward  Everett  de- 
livered the  oration,  and  for  subsequent  observances  Edward 
Everett  Hale  wrote  his  ballad  of  "Bloody  Brook." 

The  highway  runs  through  the  old  South  Meadows  bordering 
the  Deerfield  river.  A  great  elm  here,  known  as  the  Fish  Fry 
Tree,  is  a  favorite  resort  for  picnickers.  Across  the  river  is 
Harrows  Meadow.  To  the  right  is  Pocumtuck  Mountain  (822  ft). 

33.5     DEERFIELD.     Alt   152  ft.     Pop   2209    (1910),   2739    (1915). 

Franklin  Co.    Settled  1671.    Indian  name  Pocumtuck.    Mfg. 

pocketbooks.    B.  &  M.  R.R.  repair  shop. 

Old  Deerfield  extends  along  one  wide  thoroughfare  on  a  ter- 
race overlooking  the  valley.  It  is  frequently  spoken  of  as 


3l8    '  DEERFIELD— GREENFIELD 

'The  Street,*  or  'Old  Street.'  Its  natural  beauty  and  his- 
toric interest  attract  many  visitors. 

Deerfield  was  one  of  the  first  towns  to  take  up  the  modern 
arts  and  crafts  movement.  Since  1896  many  of  the  old  house- 
hold industries  have  been  revived  and  made  financially  success- 
ful. Rag  rugs,  embroidery,  wrought-iron,  furniture,  and  metal 
work  are  annually  exhibited  in  the  village  headquarters,  a  two- 
century  old  house. 

There  are  some  fine  old  houses  along  'The  Street.'  The 
Parson  Williams  house  (1707)  stands  well  back  from  the  village 
street.  It  was  moved  from  the  site  of  the  original  parsonage 
of  1686  to  make  room  for  the  Dickinson  High  School.  Though 
the  house  has  suffered  changes  some  features  remain  un- 
unaltered.  In  1739  this  house  passed  to  Consider  Dickinson, 
a  vigorous  soul,  who  remarried  at  the  age  of  79.  His  estate, 
left  to  his  wife  in  trust  for  the  public  welfare,  went  eventually  to 
Deerfield  Academy  and  Dickinson  High  School.  The  Pocum- 
tuck  Valley  Memorial  Association,  chartered  in  1870,  now 
owns  and  occupies  the  old  academy  building  of  1797,  which 
it  secured  when  the  new  Free  Dickinson  Academy  was  estab- 
lished in  1878.  Here  has  been  gathered  together  an  interest- 
ing and  characteristic  collection  of  Indian  relics,  and  imple- 
ments, utensils,  and  household  belongings  of  the  early  settlers. 

Opposite  the  Williams  house  is  the  birthplace  of  Edward 
Hitchcock,  once  President  of  Amherst,  but  more  famous  as 
a  geologist.  Just  to  the  west  is  "the  little  brown  house  on  the 
Albany  Road,"  as  Mr.  George  Sheldon  of  Deerfield  has  so  aptly 
named  it.  It  was  once  the  studio  of  the  noted  artist  George 
Fuller,  and  is  still  owned  by  his  descendants.  It  has  also  been 
the  home  of  General  Hoyt,  uncle  of  Edward  Hitchcock,  and  it 
is  said  that  the  two  used  to  sit  and  study  Edward's  lessons 
together  in  the  branches  of  the  great  elm  in  front  of  the  studio. 
The  Frary  house  (1683-98)  is  the  oldest  in  the  county.  In 
Revolutionary  times  it  was  Salah  Barnard's  Tavern,  where 
in  1775  Benedict  Arnold  closed  a  contract  for  supplies  for  the 
army.  The  present  church  dates  from  1824.  It  possesses 
interesting  silver  and  pewter.  A  tablet  opposite  it  marks  the 
site  of  Ensign  John  Sheldon's  house,  which  withstood  the 
attack  of  1704.  The  door,  preserved  in  Memorial  Hall,  attests 
the  fury  of  the  blows  dealt  upon  it. 

The  gambrel-roofed  extension  of  the  Willard  house  dates 
from  1694  and  the  main  body  of  the  structure  from  1768. 
This  latter  portion  is  interesting  because  Joseph  Barnard  spent 
thirteen  years  in  selecting  wood  without  knots  for  its  con- 
struction. Dr.  Willard,  an  abolitionist  of  the  '3o's,  and  the 
first  Unitarian  minister  in  western  Massachusetts,  entertained 


R.  10  §  3.     WEST  BANK:  SPRINGFIELD  TO  GREENFIELD     319 

many  distinguished  guests  here,  among  them  Charles  Sumner, 
Horace  Greeley,  and  Emerson. 

Deerfield's  history  is  one  of  battle,  murder,  and  sudden  death,  of 
abductions  and  tortures,  captures  and  rescues.  The  northwest  frontier 
settlement  of  New  England,  it  was  for  thirty  years  exposed  to  frequent 
attack.  This  territory,  known  as  Pocumtuck,  was  granted  in  1654  to 
the  town  of  Dedham  in  exchange  for  land  at  Natick  granted  to  the 
Apostle  Eliot  for  an  Indian  settlement.  Though  the  Dedham  people 
grumbled  at  the  exchange  they  accepted  it,  and  sold  their  rights  to 
John  Pynchon  of  Springfield  in  1666-67.  He  settled  with  the  Pocum- 
tuck Indians  at  the  rate  of  four  pence  per  acre.  At  the  outbreak  of 
King  Philip's  War,  Deerfield  had  about  125  inhabitants,  whose  houses 
were  scattered  the  length  of  the  'Old  Street.'  There  were  three 
garrison  houses,  protected  by  palisades,  and  opposite  the  present 
Common  stood  Stockwell  Fort.  On  the  first  of  September,  1675, 
Deerfield  was  attacked  and  burned.  Northfield  was  similarly  sur- 
prised the  following  day  and  consequently  abandoned,  leaving  Deer- 
field  the  only  outpost.  On  September  12  the  place  was  again  attacked, 
though  the  savages  were  driven  off  after  they  had  burned  many  houses. 
It  was  in  response  to  these  attacks  that  Captain  Lothrop  was  sent  to 
the  relief  of  the  town,  resulting  in  the  massacre  at  Bloody  Brook  as  he 
returned.  Following  this  Deerfield  was  abandoned  until  1682. 

It  was  during  Father  Rale's  War  that  the  great  Deerfield  massacre 
occurred,  of  which  the  Rev.  John  Williams  gives  so  stirring  an  account 
in  "The  Redeemed  Captive."  "On  the  twenty-ninth  of  February, 
1704,"  he  says,  "not  long  before  break  of  day,  the  enemy  came  in  like  a 
flood  upon  us;  our  watch  being  unfaithful."  A  force  of  340  French 
and  Indians  under  Sir  Hertel  de  Rouville  massacred  49  men,  women, 
and  children,  burned  the  town,  and  took  in  captives,  of  whom  20 
were  killed  on  the  way  back  to  Canada.  All  the  horror  of  the 
massacre  and  the  torture  of  the  long  march  through  the  snow  is,  with 
full  dramatic  power  and  much  pious  moralizing,  brought  out  by  the 
Rev.  John  Williams  in  his  narrative.  Mrs.  Williams  was  murdered 
"by  rage  ye  barbarous  enemy"  in  the  Leyden  Gorge,  four  miles  north 
of  Greenfield,  and  other  weakly  captives  soon  shared  her  fate. 

A  tablet  now  marks  the  stop  where  on  the  first  Sunday  of  their 
march  north  John  Williams  preached  the  first  sermon  in  the  territory 
now  Vermont,  from  the  text,  "My  virgins  and  my  young  men  are  gone 
into  captivity."  Most  of  the  prisoners  were  finally  exchanged,  though 
28  of  them,  mostly  children,  joined  the  Roman  Church  and  remained 
in  Canada,  "whence  kindred  blood  now  rattles  bad  French  in 
Canada,  or  sputters  Indian  in  the  north  and  northwest."  The 
pastor's  little  daughter,  Eunice,  who  was  seven  years  old  when  cap- 
tured, married  an  Indian  and  occasionally  in  after  years  visited  her 
brother  at  Longmeadow  with  members  of  her  tribe  (p  120). 

At  Cheapside  the  highway  crosses  the  Deerfield  river  by  a 
covered  bridge  a  mile  above  its  junction  with  the  Connecticut, 
and  bears  left,  crossing  R.R.  The  road  to  the  right  leads  to 
Montague  City  and  Turners  Falls,  where  it  joins  Route  15. 

37.0     GREENFIELD.    Alt  204  ft.    Pop  10,427  (1910),  12,618  (1915). 

County-seat  of  Franklin  Co.    Settled  1687.    Mfg.  taps  and 

dies,  small  tools,  machinery,  cutlery,  and  pocketbooks. 

This  is  the  world's  greatest  tap  and  die  town,  and,  though  its 

manufacturing  is  so  prosperous,  the  population  having  doubled 

in  the  last  fifteen  years,  it  is  a  town  of  quiet  beauty  and  attrac- 


320  GREENFIELD— CHICOPEE 

tiveness.  Though  manufacturing  has  brought  a  large  influx 
of  foreign-born,  the  families  of  the  early  settlers,  the  Smeads, 
the  Hinsdales,  the  Nashes,  the  Grinnells,  and  the  Aikens  are 
still  numerous.  The  town  is  modern  in  appearance,  but 
the  rooms  of  the  Historical  Society  contain  interesting  col- 
lections and  relics. 

The  Greenfield  Tap  and  Die  Corporation  is  a  consolidation 
of  three  earlier  firms.  Though  each  plant  is  distinct,  work 
among  them  is  interchangeable.  In  addition  to  taps  and  dies, 
screw  and  thread  cutting  machines,  reamers,  gauges,  etc.,  are 
manufactured. 

Green  River  flows  through  the  town  from  the  north  into  the 
Deerfield.  Its  Indian  name,  Picomegan,  meant  "boring 
river."  Con  way  Street  leads  north  (4.0)  to  the  mouth  of 
Leyden  Gorge.  At  Nash's  Mill,  in  front  of  the  2oo-year-old 
church,  stands  a  tablet  marking  the  spot  where  the  brave 
William  Turner  met  his  death  after  his  brilliant  exploit  at 
Turners  Falls  a  few  days  before,  which  hastened  the  end  of 
King  Philip's  War. 

Across  the  river  and  up  the  hill  a  plain  granite  slab  bears  this 
inscription:  '"The  Cruel  and  Bloodthirsty/  Savage  who  took 
her,  slew  her/  with  his  hatchet  at  one  stroke.'  Rev.  John 
Williams,/  of  Deerfield,/  The  'Redeemed  Captive';/  so 
wrote  of  his  Wife,/  Mrs.  Eunice  Williams,/  Who  was  killed 
at  this  place/  March  i,  1704.7  Erected  by  P.  V.  M.  A.  Aug. 

12,    l884." 

Southwest  of  the  town  is  the  mountain  mass  known  as 
Arthur's  Seat  (927  ft).  To  the  east  Rocky  Mountain  rises 
between  the  city  and  the  Connecticut  river.  On  its  summit 
is  a  square  stone  observation  tower  at  the  spot  called  Poet's 
Seat  (480  ft)  because  Frederick  Tuckermann,  a  local  bard, 
frequently  sought  the  quiet  and  grandeur  of  the  place.  The 
southern  end  of  the  rocky  ridge  is  a  rugged  bluff  from  which 
local  tradition  says  King  Philip  watched  the  movements 
of  his  enemies.  On  the  slope  a  little  way  below  is  a  cave  called 
the  Bear's  Den. 

Land  was  first  taken  up  here  in  1687,  when  this  was  a  part  of  Deer- 
field.  It  became  a  separate  town  in  1753.  Greenfield's  trade  dates 
from  1792,  when  the  Locks' &  Canals  Company  started  a  landing  place 
at  Cheapside  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Deerfield  river.  The  flat- 
bottomed  boats  from  Hartford  were  poled  up,  laden  with  East  Indian 
goods  to  be  exchanged  for  lumber  and  farm  products,  and  so  the  East 
and  West  met  in  this  frontier  settlement.  The  town  thus  became 
something  of  a  commercial  center,  as  it  is  even  today.  Among  the 
first  manufactures  was  iron  from  the  crude  ore  of  Bernardston.  The 
Greenfield  Tap  and  Die  Corporation  and  the  Goodell-Pratt  Company 
are  the  leading  tool  makers  today. 


R.  10  §  3.     E.  BANK:   SPRINGFIELD  TO  MILLERS  FALLS        321 

R.  10  §  3.     East  Bank:  Springfield  to  Millers  Falls.       40.0  m. 

After  passing  through  the  manufacturing  towns  of  Chicopee 
Falls  and  South  Hadley  Falls,  this  route  runs  through  a  broken 
hill  region  dominated  by  the  Mt.  Holyoke  range,  in  which 
are  the  quiet  academic  towns  of  South  Hadley  and  Amherst 
and  the  beautiful  village  of  Hadley.  The  route  follows  State 
and  Town  Roads  not  designated  by  any  marking  system. 

From  Springfield  follow  State  St.  and  at  Federal  Square 
turn  left  on  St.  James  Ave.,  an  excellent  cement  road  direct  to 
Chicopee  Falls.  An  indifferent  alternate  route  leads  to 
Willimansett  and  the  main  route  via  Bright  wood  and  Chicopee. 

4.0     CHICOPEE   FALLS.     Alt  140  ft  (part  of  Chicopee). 

The  enormous  plant  of  the  Fisk  Rubber  Company,  manu- 
facturers of  automobile  tires,  is  the  most  conspicuous  feature. 
There  are  twenty  buildings  with  twenty-nine  acres  of  floor 
space  and  a  capacity  of  12,000  tires  daily.  The  Westinghouse 
Company  has  taken  over  the  plants  of  the  former  Stevens  Arms 
and  the  Stevens-Duryea  Automobile  Companies,  and  has  here 
created  a  great  war  plant  for  the  manufacture  of  rifles. 

Edward  Bellamy,  whose  "Looking  Backward;  2000-1887" 
made  him  famous,  was  born  here  in  1850  while  his  father  was 
the  local  Baptist  minister. 

Two  miles  west,  down  the  Chicopee  river,  is  the  busy  town  of 

CHICOPEE.    Alt  130  ft.    Pop  25,401  (1910),  30,138  (1915).    Hamp- 
den  Co.     Settled  1638.     Indian  name,  "birch  bark  place." 
Mfg.  automobile  tires,  firearms,  sporting  goods,  and  cotton. 
Value  of  Products  (1913),  $31,126,000;   Payroll,  $5,390,000. 
Chicopee  is  a  manufacturing  town,  utilizing  the  waterpower 
of  the  Chicopee  river,  which  falls  seventy  feet  in  less  than  three 
miles.     Two  large  cotton  factories  with  200,000  spindles  em- 
ploy 7000  hands  and  annually  produce  three  million  dollars' 
worth  of  goods.     The  only  surviving  department  of  the  Ames 
Manufacturing  Company  manufactures    swords,  regalia,  and 
also  padlocks.     The  A.  G.  Spalding  &  Bros.  Company,  manu- 
facturers of  sporting  goods,  occupy  the  old  Ames  plant. 

Iron  works  were  established  here  at  the  close  of  the  Revolution, 
making  use  of  the  bog  iron  ore  of  the  neighborhood.  The  water- 
power  of  the  river  was  first  developed  about  1820  by  paper  and  cotton 
mills,  and  later  by  the  great  Ames  Manufacturing  Company,  which 
during  the  Civil  War  manufactured  over  a  thousand  cannon  as  well  as 
other  war  material.  In  the  bronze  foundry  of  this  company,  now  dis- 
continued, were  cast  the  bronze  doors  of  the  Washington  Capitol, 
almost  the  first  work  of  this  kind  to  be  done  in  America,  the  bronze 
doors  of  the  House  of  Representatives  having  been  cast  in  Munich. 
The  Concord  "Minute  Man"  was  also  cast  here. 

From  the  Falls  an  excellent  road  leads  northward  through 
Aldenville  to  Willimansett   (6.8),  where  there  is  a  bridge  to 


322  CHICOPEE— HADLEY 

Holyoke  and  the  West  Bank,  and  on  to  South  Hadley  Falls 
(8.8),  opposite  the  city  of  Holyoke  (p  310).  The  mills  close 
to  the  river  of  the  Hampshire  Paper  Company,  manufactur- 
ing Old  Hampshire  Bond  exclusively,  are  conspicuous. 

Two  State  Roads  continue  from  the  Falls,  the  righthand 
leading  northeast  to  Granby  and  Belchertown,  the  other,  fol- 
lowing the  trolley  for  three  and  a  half  miles  in  sight  of  Mts. 
Torn  and  Holyoke,  entering  the  historic  elm-shaded  street  of 

12.0  SOUTH  HADLEY.  Alt  200  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4894  (1910),  5179 
(1915).  Hampshire  Co.  Settled  1720.  Mfg.  boxes,  cotton, 
paper  and  wood  pulp,  brick  and  tile;  tobacco-growing. 

In  the  heart  of  the  village  on  the  right  are  the  grounds  and 
twenty-five  buildings  of  Mount  Holyoke  College,  the  oldest 
college  for  women  in  America.  In  1835  Mary  Lyon  decided 
to  remove  her  seminary  from  Ipswich  to  the  Connecticut 
valley.  Several  towns  competed  for  the  honor,  which  South 
Hadley  won  by  raising  $8000,  a  large  sum  for  that  day.  Within 
the  first  fifty  years  Mount  Holyoke  sent  out  1 78  missionaries. 
In  the  'Old  White  Church,'  built  in  1844,  Mary  Lyon's 
funeral  was  held.  On  the  right  are  the  new  student  alumnae 
hall,  marked  by  towers  and  an  arcade;  Skinner  recitation 
hall;  the  Field  Memorial  gateway;  Mary  Lyon  Hall,  contain- 
ing chapel  and  administration  offices,  on  the  site  of  the  old 
seminary  building;  the  library  and  the  D wight  Memorial  art 
building  on  the  site  of  the  old  Dwight  homestead.  Residence 
halls,  science  buildings,  gymnasium,  a  central  power  house, 
and  plant  houses  further  from  the  street  are  visible  through 
the  trees.  The  campus  of  150  acres  includes  wide  lawns  and 
gardens,  a  stream  and  two  small  lakes,  and  a  forest-covered 
hill  on  which  there  is  a  woodland  theater  in  which  May  Day 
and  Commencement  plays  are  given  each  year.  At  the  center 
of  the  campus,  in  a  lovely  grove,  is  Mary  Lyon's  grave,  back 
of  which,  on  a  slope,  is  a  large  open-air  auditorium. 

On  the  left  of  the  street,  opposite  Mary  Lyon  Hall,  is  the 
Gaylord  Memorial  Library,  also  Pearsons  Hall,  a  college 
dormitory,  and  the  President's  house.  A  number  of  the  oldest 
houses  in  the  village  are  marked  by  eighteenth  century  dates 
above  their  doors.  The  oldest  (1732),  at  the  north  end  of  the 
Common,  was  built  as  the  first  meeting  house,  but  was  later 
made  into  a  dwelling  house.  A  portion  of  the  first  parsonage 
(r733)  survives  as  a  wing  of  the  Eastman  homestead,  a  fine 
old  house  now  owned  by  Joseph  A.  Skinner,  of  the  Skinner 
silk  mills  in  Holyoke,  as  is  another  most  attractive  Colonial 
house  known  as  The  Sycamores  (1788),  now  rented  to  the 
college,  for  students.  These  two  and  Mr.  Skinner's  large 


R.  10  §  3.      E.  BANK:   SPRINGFIELD  TO  MILLERS  FALLS        323 

modern  residence  occupy  a  long  stretch  on  the  left  of  Wood- 
bridge  St.,  a  half  mile  beyond  the  church.  Opposite  The 
Sycamores,  and  just  around  the  corner  on  Silver  St.,  is  the 
Lovell  house  (1742),  built  for  the  Rev.  John  Woodbridge. 

Note.  From  the  Common  the  road  to  the  right  with  trolley, 
State  Highway  most  of  the  way,  leads  upgrade  through  'The 
Notch'  between  Bear  Mountain  and  Norwottock  of  the 
Holyoke  range  direct  to  Amherst  (9.5). 

The  road  to  the  left  leads  to  the  river.  From  its  second 
fork,  the  main  route  to  Hadley  leads  right,  goes  through 
the  Pass  of  Thermopylae  between  the  mountain  and  the  river, 
skirting  the  wild  trap  rock  cliff  known  as  'Titan's  Pier.'  A 
road  diverging  from  this,  good  macadam,  20  feet  wide 
and  three  quarters  of  a  mile  long,  with  a  maximum  grade  of 
10  per  cent,  leads  to  the  summit  house  on  Mt.  Holyoke 
(955  ft).  It  may  also  be  reached  from  the  half  way  house  by 
the  incline  railway,  which  in  its  600  feet  of  incline  rises  365  feet. 
It  has  been  called  "the  gem  of  Massachusetts  mountains,"  and 
the  celebrated  view  from  its  summit  is  probably  the  richest  in 
New  England.  This  mass  of  trap  rock,  which  rises  830  feet 
above  the  Connecticut,  is  part  of  the  system  of  Triassic  trap 
ridges  stretching  northward  from  West  Rock  at  New  Haven 
(p  93).  The  Mt.  Holyoke  House  occupies  the  site  of  a  hotel 
built  in  1821.  The  view  stretches  down  the  Connecticut  past 
Springfield  and  Hartford  to  East  and  West  Rocks  at  New 
Haven,  a  distance  of  seventy  miles.  Thirty-five  miles  away 
to  the  east  is  Mt.  Wachusett,  and  fifty  miles  to  the  northeast 
is  Monadnock,  with  Amherst  in  the  foreground.  To  the  north 
is  Hadley,  and  beyond,  Mt.  Toby  and  Sugarloaf ,  capped  in  the 
distance  by  the  blue  peaks  of  the  Green  Mountains.  North- 
ampton and  Mt.  Tom  with  the  Berkshires  and  Greylock  on 
the  horizon  lie  to  the  west. 

The  village  of  Hockanum  in  Hadley  township,  at  the  base 
of  Mt.  Holyoke,  was  the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  interesting 
incidents  of  J.  G.  Holland's  "Kathrina."  Clifton  Johnson, 
who  has  so  successfully  combined  the  writing  of  many  books 
about  New  England  scenes  and  people  with  artistic  photogra- 
phy and  editing  school  books,  lives  here. 

20.5  HADLEY.  Alt  189  ft.  Pop  1999  (1910),  2666  (1915).  Hamp- 
shire Co.  Settled  1659.  Indian  name  Norwottuck.  Mfg. 
brooms;  tobacco  and  onion  growing. 

Hadley  lies  in  a  great  bend  of  the  Connecticut  opposite 
Northampton.  It  is  a  fine  old  town,  famous  for  its  "Street," 
300  feet  wide,  running  north  and  south  across  the  peninsula. 
On  its  deep  alluvial  soil  the  elms  grow  to  their  greatest  mag- 
nificence. Today  in  this  little  agricultural  town  the  old  New 


324 


HADLEY 


England  stock  is  rapidly  dwindling  and  there  has  been  a  great 
influx  of  Poles.  Formerly  Hadley  had  a  prosperous  broom 
industry.  Broom-corn  cultivation  and  broom-making  were 
begun  here  about  1790,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth 
century  immense  fields  of  broom-corn  gave  winter  employ- 
ment to  its  whole  male  population  in  the  making  of  brooms. 
Now  but  one  small  factory  remains,  which  obtains  its  broom- 
corn  from  Oklahoma.  Tobacco-raising  is  still  important,  and 
with  the  Polish  immigration  onion  •  culture  has  developed. 
Hadley  is  a  favorite  place  of  dissipation  for  the  Smith  College 

girls.  Here  they  come  on 
'Bacon  Bats'  and  the  Had- 
ley cider  mill  in  season  is  a 
favorite  place  of  pilgrimage, 
so  that  the  natives  refer  to 
them  as  "The  tin  pail  brig- 
ade." 

West  Street,  a  mile  long 
and  a  hundred  yards  wide, 
with  a  Green  down  the  cen- 
ter and  double  rows  of  fine 
old  elms,  has  been  called 
"the  handsomest  street  by 
nature  in  New  England." 
There  are  many  Colonial 
houses  on  this  street,  and 
several  of  the  doorways  are 
decorated  with  '  the  high-boy 
scroll.'  On  the  corner  of 
Russell  St.  close  to  the  pres- 
ent village  inn  is  the  site  of 
Parson  John  Russell's  house, 
where  the  Regicides  were  hid- 
den, and  nearby  there  still 
stands  a  portion  of  Colonel 
Elisha  Porter's  house,  where  Burgoyne  spent  the  night  while 
on  the  way  to  Boston  after  his  surrender.  Burgoyne  was  in 
such  good  spirits  at  the  hospitality  he  received  that  he  gave  his 
handsome  sword,  surrendered  and  then  restored  to  him  at 
Saratoga,  to  his  host,  by  whose  descendants  it  is  still  preserved. 
Between  the  R.R.  and  the  river  on  the  east  side  of  the 
'Street'  is  the  Eleazer  Porter  house  (1713),  the  oldest  in  the 
town,  with  an  interesting  high-boy  scroll  over  the  door. 
A  few  paces  further  north  is  another  Porter  house,  where  in 
1866  Miss  Charlotte  Porter  established  her  boarding  school 
for  girls,  but  which  for  the  last  thirty-four  years  has  been 


HIGH-BOY    SCROLL   DOORWAY    OF    THE 
ELEAZER    PORTER   HOUSE 


R.  10  §  3.      E.  BANK:  SPRINGFIELD  TO  MILLERS  FALLS        325 

continued  at  Springfield.  Nearly  opposite,  and  shaded  by  a 
magnificent  elm,  is  the  site,  marked  by  a  tablet,  of  the  house 
in  which  'Fighting  Joe'  Hooker,  the  famous  general  in  the 
Mexican  and  Civil  Wars,  was  born  in  1814. 

On  Middle  St.  next  the  town  hall,  is  the  Old  Meeting  House, 
dating  from  1808,  a  simple  masterpiece  of  Colonial  architec- 
ture. The  weathercock,  imported  from  London  for  an  earlier 
church,  has  looked  down  from  its  lofty  perch  upon  Hadley 
since  1753.  Julia  Taft  Bayne,  cousin  of  Ex-president  Taft, 
and  wife  of  a  former  pastor  of  the  church,  has  thus  voiced  the 
feeling  of  this  old  weathercock: 

"On  Hadley  steeple  proud  I  sit, 
Steadfast  and  true,  I  never  flit. 
Summer  and  winter,  night  and  day, 
The  merry  winds  around  me  play, 

And  far  below  my  gilded  feet 
The  generations  come  and  go, 
In  one  unceasing  ebb  and  flow, 

Year  after  year  in  Hadley  street. 
I  nothing  care,  I  only  know, 
God  sits  above,  He  wills  it  so; 
While  roundabout  and  roundabout  and 

roundabout  I  go, 

The  way  o'  the  wind,  the  changing  wind, 
the  way  o'  the  wind  to  show." 

The  old  Ben  Smith  Tavern  stands  at  the  corner  of  Middle 
St.  and  Bay  Road,  the  "Olde  Bay  Path"  of  Colonial  days. 
This  tavern  on  the  post  road  between  Boston  and  Albany  was 
a  very  popular  hostelry  in  the  eighteenth  century. 

Major  John  Pynchon  purchased  this  territory  from  three  Indian 
sachems,  whose  names  are  worthy  of  preservation, — Chickwallop, 
Umpanchala,  and  Quonquont.  The  price  paid,  700  feet  of  wampum, 
was  the  highest  rate  that  had  been  paid  the  Indians  for  their  real 
estate  up  to  that  time.  The  first  settlers  were  "Strict  Congregation- 
alists"  from  Hartford  and  Wethersfield  who  migrated  because  of  church 
difficulties.  Some  of  these  recalling  their  English  home  of  Hadleigh 
so  named  the  town. 

Hopkins  Academy,  established  here  in  1664,  was  perhaps  the  earliest 
school  founded  by  private  benefaction  in  New  England.  Edward 
Hopkins,  a  London  merchant  converted  to  Puritanism,  came  to 
America  in  1638  and  long  resided  at  Hartford,  where  he  amassed 
wealth  in  the  West  India  trade.  Dying  in  London  in  1657  he  left  his 
fortune  "to  give  some  encouragement  in  their  foreign  plantations  for 
the  breeding  up  of  hopeful  youths  in  a  way  of  learning,  both  at  the 
grammar  school  and  college,  for  the  public  service  of  the  country  in 
future  times."  One  of  the  trustees  of  the  fund  became  a  resident  of 
Hadley,  which  resulted  in  the  academy  being  established  here.  The 
school  founded  at  New  Haven  on  the  same  bequest  still  continues  its 
moribund  existence,  and  a  portion  of  the  funds  given  to  Harvard 
College  still  provide  the  "Deturs." 

When  in  1664  New  Haven  became  too  hot  for  the  Regicides  (p  03), 
a  refuge  was  prepared  for  them  in  this  remote  frontier  town.  Goffe 
and  Whalley  arrived  by  night  and  were  secreted  in  the  house  of  Mr. 
Russell.  Except  for  one  appearance  and  the  visits  of  a  few  confidential 


326  HADLEY— AMHERST 

friends,  Whalley  so  lived  here  for  ten  years  till  his  death,  and  Goffe  for 
at  least  five  years  longer.  The  only  appearance  of  the  latter  as  the 
'Angel  of  Hadley '  was  most  dramatic.  The  frontier  settlement  was 
protected  by  a  palisade,  though  subject  to  frequent  Indian  attacks. 
In  September,  1675,  the  inhabitants  were  keeping  a  fast,  when  the 
Indians,  taking  advantage  of  their  devotion,  fell  upon  them.  In  the 
suddenness  of  the  assault  all  was  confusion.  All  seemed  lost  when  an 
unknown  man  of  advanced  years,  in  ancient  garb,  with  flowing  white 
hair,  suddenly  appeared,  and  in  commanding  tones  directed  the 
defence.  His  authoritative  words  of  command  instantly  restored  con- 
fidence. With  pike  and  musket  the  invaders  were  driven  in  headlong 
flight.  When  order  was  restored,  the  'Angel  of  Hadley'  had  disap- 
peared. Nor  did  scarce  any  man  know  that  it  was  General  Goffe,  who 
from  his  hiding  had  seen  the  Indians  approach,  that  gracious  Provi- 
dence had  interposed  for  their  rescue. 

Note.  Two  miles  north  is  North  Hadley,  near  the  river,  on  the 
road  to  which  one  passes  the  birthplace  and  cherished  home  of  Bishop 
F.  D.  Huntington  (1819-1904),  now  the  property  of  a  grandson. 

The  State  Highway  runs  from  Northampton  eastward 
through  Hadley,  direct  to 

24.5  AMHERST.  Alt  241  ft,  R.R.  Sta.  Pop  5112  (1910),  5558 
(1915).  Hampshire  Co.  Settled  1727.  Mfg.  boxes,  brick, 
straw  hats,  mercerized  silk;  dyeing  and  finishing  textiles. 

Amherst  is  a  quiet  academic  town  in  the  midst  of  some  of 
the  most  pleasing  scenery  of  the  whole  valley.  It  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  a  plateau  about  200  feet  above  the  Connecti- 
cut, in  a  setting  of  wooded  mountains.  To  the  north  are  Mt. 
Toby  and  Sugarloaf,  to  the  east  the  Pelham  Hills,  to  the  south 
the  Holyoke  range,  and  to  the  west  the  river  and  the  distant 
Berkshire  and  Hampshire  hills.  The  name  of  the  town  is 
synonymous  with  the  college  to  the  outer  world,  but  in  ad- 
dition to  being  an  educational  center  there  is  some  manufac- 
turing. There  are  two  concerns,  employing  about  500  hands, 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  the  type  of  straw  hat  worn 
extensively  in  the  South  and  West.  The  material  used  is  im- 
ported, chiefly  from  China  and  South  America.  The  region 
abc  ut  is  one  of  the  finest  fruit-growing  portions  of  New  Eng- 
land, and  there  are  great  orchards,  such  as  those  of  the  Bay 
Road  Fruit  Company.  Shade-grown  tobacco  is  another  im- 
portant product,  and  onions,  grown  by  the  Polanders  on  the 
share  system,  yield  large  profits. 

The  grounds  of  Amherst  College  lie  on  the  hill  at  the  south- 
ern end  of  the  village  Common.  Walker  Hall  is  the  adminis- 
trative building,  north  of  which  are  the  Fayerweather  Labora- 
tory and  the  Morris  Pratt  Memorial  Dormitory.  Barrett 
Hall,  to  the  east,  formerly  Barrett  Gymnasium  (1860),  was  the 
first  college  gymnasium  in  the  country.  Johnson  Chapel 
(1827)  and  the  College  Church  stand  on  opposite  sides  of  the 
campus,  the  Pratt  Gymnasium  and  Natatorium  and  the 
Biological  and  Geological  Laboratories  on  the  south  border. 


R.  10  §  3.     E.  BANK:  SPRINGFIELD  TO  MILLERS  FALLS       327 

The  biology  museum  contains  a  part  of  Audubon's  celebrated 
collection  of  birds.  In  the  geology  museum  is  the  Hitchcock 
Ichnological  Collection  of  some  twenty  thousand  reptilian 
tracks  in  stone,  and  casts  of  living  and  extinct  sp.cies.  In 
Appleton  Cabinet  is  the  anthropological  collection,  rich  in 
Indian  relics.  The  Mather  Art  Museum  occupies  the  third 
floor  of  Williston  Hall,  directly  north  of  North  College. 

At  the  south  end  of  Pleasant  St.,  the  main  thoroughfare  of 
the  town,  are  the  President's  house,  the  Library  and  College 
Hall;  the  latter,  once  the  village  church,  is  now  the  main 
assembly  hall  of  the  college.  North  and  South  College,  built 
in  1828  and  1820,  are  the  oldest  buildings.  About  five  min- 
utes' walk  from  the  campus  are  the  Observatory,  Pratt  Field, 
and  Pratt  Skating  Rink.  The  Fraternity  Houses,  most  of 
which  are  on  or  near  the  campus,  are  an  important  part  of 
the  college  dormitory  system,  and  some  of  the  new  ones  are 
fine  examples  of  modern  New  England  Colonial  architecture. 
The  Psi  Upsilon  House,  facing  the  Common  at  the  corner  of 
Northampton  Road,  is  one  of  the  most  attractive. 

The  town  centers  about  the  Common,  and  there  are  a  number 
of  interesting  old  houses.  The  Strong  house  (1744),  under 
its  giant  buttonwood,  is  now  the  headquarters  of  the  Amherst 
Historical  Society,  and  the  interior  preserves  much  of  its 
oldtime  appearance.  On  South  Pleasant  St.  is  the  old  How- 
land  house,  better  known  as  the  home  of  Edward  Hitchcock, 
the  famous  geologist,  at  one  time  President  of  Amherst  Col- 
lege. Nearby  is  the  birthplace  of  Helen  Hunt  Jackson.  On 
the  Old  Bay  Road  in  the  south  part  of  the  town  is  the  Bridge- 
man  Tavern,  famous  in  the  days  of  the  stage  coaches.  Eugene 
Field  and  his  brother  Roswell  made  this  their  playground 
when  attending  Miss  Howland  s  private  school  close  by. 
North  of  the  Agricultural  College  is  the  old  Dickinson  estate. 

The  Massachusetts  Agricultural  College,  incorporated  1863, 
is  about  a  mile  north  of  the  Common.  The  buildings  are  on 
the  edge  of  a  sloping  meadow  with  fine  views  of  the  moun- 
tains to  the  south  and  west.  Among  the  buildings  are  Stone 
Chapel;  Draper  Hall,  the  college  commons;  the  Flint  Labora- 
tory, one  of  the  best  equipped  dairy  buildings  in  the  United 
States;  French  Hall,  devoted  to  floriculture  and  market- 
gardening;  Stockbridge  Hall,  devoted  to  agriculture;  and  the 
modern  concrete  barns,  cattle  sheds,  etc.,  of  the  experimental 
farm.  Under  the  enterprising  direction  of  President  Kenyon 
L.  Butterfield  the  college  is  attempting  to  serve  the  whole 
State  in  the  promotion  of  improved  methods  of  developing 
the  soil  and  its  productions.  Frequent  demonstrations  are 
given  which  are  attractive  to  farmers  and  stock  growers. 


328  AMHERST— VERNON 

The  town  was  named  in  honor  of  General  Jeffrey  Amherst  (1717- 
97),  English  commander  of  the  expedition  against  Louisburg,  and 
under  whom  many  of  the  early  settlers  fought.  In  1746  the  town 
voted  "to  give  John  Nash  forty  shillings  to  sound  ye  kunk  for  this 
year."  This  was  the  substitute  for  a  church  bell  until  1793,  when  a 
bell  which  weighed  932  pounds  took  its  place.  In  Revolutionary 
days  the  town  seems  to  have  been  evenly  divided  in  sentime_nt,  but 
on  one  occasion  when  Mr.  Parsons,  the  minister,  was  obliged  to 
read  a  proclamation,  issued  by  the  newly  created  State  of  Massachu- 
setts, ending  with  "God  save  the  Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts," 
he  added,  "but  I  say,  'God  save  the  King.'"  Whereupon  Nat  Dick- 
inson sprang  up  in  his  pew  and  shouted,  "And  I  say  you  are  a  damned 
rascal."  Noah  Webster  lived  here  from  1812  to  1822,  while  working 
on  his  Dictionary,  and  Silas  Wright,  statesman,  and  Governor  of  New 
York,  was  born  here. 

The  route  leads  straight  through  Pleasant  St.,  passing  the 
Massachusetts  Agricultural  College,  and  follows  the  State 
Highway  to  North  Amherst  (27.0). 

Note.  The  left  fork  leads  to  the  Connecticut  and  the 
West  Bank  Route  through  the  township  and  village  of  Sun- 
derland  (5.0).  The  neighborhood  was  called  by  the  early 
settlers  "Plumtrees"  from  the  wild  plums  which  then 
abounded.  Here  is  the  old  Hubbard  Tavern  (1763),  which 
still  retains  much  of  the  quaint  aspect  of  former  times.  To 
the  north  is  Mt.  Toby  (1000  ft),  a  mass  of  conglomerate  rock, 
on  the  slopes  of  which  are  several  cascades  and  a  remark- 
able cavern  150  feet  long.  The  bridge  leads  over  the  river 
to  Deerfield  (p  317). 

The  main  route  takes  the  right  fork,  following  the  course  of 
the  R.R.  in  the  valley  east  of  Mt.  Toby  to 

35.5  MONTAGUE.  Alt  228  ft.  Pop  6866  (1910),  7925  (1915). 
Franklin  Co.  Inc.  1754.  Mfg.  brick  and  sporting  goods. 

Montague  was  named  for  the  commander  of  the  "Mer- 
maid" at  the  taking  of  Cape  Breton.  It  was  called  "Mon- 
tague City"  after  the  construction  of  the  canal  of  the  Upper 
Locks  Company  in  1753,  when  it  was  hoped  that  a  little  city 
would  quickly  develop. 

At  the  crossroads  turn  sharp  right  over  a  little  bridge  and 
then  sharp  left  beside  R.R. 

40.0    MILLERS  FALLS  (R.  IS,  p  414). 


R.  10  §  4.     West  Bank:  Greenfield  to  Bellows  Falls.    43.0m. 

This  route  follows  State  Highways,  marked  with  blue  as  far 
as  Bernardston,  northward  across  country  direct  to  Brattle- 
boro.  The  route  leaves  Greenfield  by  Federal  St.  and  follows 
the  blue  markers,  with  Fall  River  on  the  right,  to 


R.  10  §  4.     W.  BANK:  GREENFIELD  TO  BELLOWS  FALLS       329 

6.5     BERNARDSTON.    Alt    365   ft.     Pop    (twp)    741    (1910),    790 
(1915).    Franklin  Co.    Settled  1738.    Mfg.  taps  and  dies. 

This  quiet  little  town,  the  most  northerly  in  Franklin 
County,  is  situated  between  the  Fall  and  Connecticut  rivers. 
It  is  primarily  an  agricultural  town,  but  there  are  also  several 
good  limestone  quarries. 

The  territory  was  first  granted  to  the  heirs  of  some  of  the  men 
engaged  in  the  Falls  Fight  which  took  place  at  Turners  Falls  in  1676, 
and  for  many  years  it  was  known  as  Fallstown.  It  was  renamed  in 
honor  of  Governor  Bernard  when  incorporated  in  1762.  The  first 
four  houses  were  built  of  hewn  logs,  with  portholes  in  the  walls  as  a 
safeguard  against  Indian  attack.  The  leading  man  among  the  settlers 
was  Major  John  Burke,  whose  epitaph  says: 

"Were  I  so  tall  to  reach  the  pole 

Or  grasp  the  ocean  with  my  span 
I  must  be  measured  by  my  soul. 

The  mind's  the  standard  of  the  man." 

Note.  A  detour  through  Mt.  Hermon  and  Vernon  to  Brat- 
tleboro,  five  miles  longer,  follows  the  blue  markers  to  the 
right,  passing  the  beautiful  grounds  of  Mount  Hermon  School 
(3.0),  founded  in  1881. 

Its  most  striking  feature  is  the  industrial  system  by  which  nearly 
all  of  the  work  of  the  farm  and  houses  is  done  by  the  boys.  After 
leaving  the  school  a  large  proportion  of  the  students  engage  in  mission 
work.  The  Memorial  Chapel  is  a  conspicuous  object  for  miles  up 
and  down  the  valley;  the  funds  for  its  erection  were  raised  by  the 
friends  of  Dwight  L.  Moody,  the  famous  evangelist  of  Northfield 
and  founder  of  the  school,  on  his  sixtieth  birthday  (1897). 

At  this  point  the  blue-marked  road  forks  to  the  right,  across 
the  Connecticut,  to  the  East  Bank  Route  at  Northfield  (p  335). 
We  follow  the  left  fork,  passing  Sawyer  and  Lily  Ponds  on 
the  left,  and  continue  through  West  Northfield.  The  State 
line  is  marked  by  a  granite  shaft. 

The  valley  of  the  Connecticut  in  Vermont  was  settled  125  years 
later  than  the  Massachusetts  portion  of  the  river.  This  was  largely 
because  it  was  nearer  to  Canada  and  consequently  more  exposed  to 
danger  from  the  French  and  Indians  as  the  main  route  which  the 
French  would  take  in  attempting  to  reach  the  lower  settlements. 
Fort  Dummer  at  Brattleboro,  the  first  white  outpost  in  Vermont, 
was  built  in  1724. 

At  South  Vernon  (7.0),  just  beyond  the  State  line  and 
opposite  Hinsdale,  the  Connecticut  Power  Company  has  built 
a  concrete  dam  30  feet  high  and  650  feet  long  across  the  river  at 
an  expense  of  $3,500,000.  This  is  one  of  the  group  of  power 
plants  in  the  region,  supplying  electricity  to  manufacturing 
centers.  It  generates  27,000  h.p. 

10.5   VERNON.    Alt  310  ft.    Pop  606.     Windham  Co.    Settled  1690. 

Vernon  is  a  quiet  village  on  the  level  terraces  of  the  river, 
with  the  Green  Mountains  for  a  background. 

The  township  was  a  part  of  the  Northfield  grant  of  1672.  Here 
was  the  first  settlement  within  the  limits  of  the  present  State  of  Ver- 


33°  VERNON— BRATTLEBORO 

mont.  People  from  Northfield  are  said  to  have  been  here  not  later 
than  1600.  When  Governor  Wentworth  granted  a  charter  to  Hins- 
dale,  N.H.,  a  part  of  this  town  was  included,  and  what  is  now  known 
as  Vernon  was  called  Hinsdale  till  1802.  Sortwell's  Fort,  built  in 
1737.  stood  here  for  nearly  a  century. 

Fort  Bridgman,  a  little  further  south,  was  attacked  and  destroyed 
by  the  Indians  in  1746  and  again  in  1755.  Among  the  captives  were 
Mrs.  Jemima  Howe  and  her  seven  children,  her  husband  having  been 
killed,  and  her  youngest,  a  baby,  perishing  on  the  trip  to  Canada. 
Mrs.  Howe,  however,  survived  captivity  and  three  husbands.  A  son 
of  her  third  husband  died  from  the  effects  of  inoculation.  His  tomb- 
stone in  the  Vernon  Cemetery  has  an  interesting  epitaph  written 
by  the  Rev.  Bunker  Gay: 

"Here  lies  cut  down,  like  unripe  fruit, 

A  son  of  Mr.  Amos  Tute. 
"To  death  he  fell  a  helpless  prey, 
On  April  V  and  Twentieth  Day, 
In  Seventeen  Hundred  Seventy-Seven, 
Quitting  this  world,  we  hope,  for  Heaven. 
"Behold  the  amazing  alteration. 
Effected  by  inoculation; 
The  means  empowered  his  life  to  save, 
Hurried  him  headlong  to  the  grave." 

A  century  or  more  ago  Vernon  was  notable  as  a  sort  of  Gretna  Green. 
Here  runaway  couples  were  married  by  Dr.  Cyrus  Washburn,  a  Justice 
of  the  Peace  in  Vernon  for  fifty-six  years.     During  this  time  he  is  said 
to  have  united  853  couples  by  many  forms  of  ceremony  of  his  own 
invention,  which  included  such  original  verse  as: 
"Parties  and  relatives  being  agreed, 
To  solemn  joyous  rites  we  will  proceed." 

From  Vernon  the  road  continues  along  the  bank  of  the  river 
at  the  foot  of  several  hills  into  Brattleboro  (18.0). 

From  Bernardston  the  main  route  passes  straight  through 
the  village.  Just  beyond  is  a  bad  left  curve.  Crossing  the 
Vermont  line,  the  road  follows  the  base  of  East  Mountain  into 

17.5     GUILFORD.    Alt  410  ft.     Pop   679.     Windham    Co.     Settled 
1761.    Mfg.  slate,  flagging,  sleds. 

General  John  W.  Phelps,  who,  like  Robert  Gould  Shaw  of  Boston, 
organized  several  colored  regiments  during  the  Civil  War,  was  a  native 
and  spent  most  of  his  life  here. 

The  town  was  settled  in  1761.  By  the  terms  of  a  grant,  in  1764  the 
grantees  were  accountable  only  to  the  British  Parliament,  so  for  several 
years  it  was  virtually  a  little  republic,  and  it  was  not  until  1776,  when 
the  authority  of  the  Continental  Congress  was  recognized,  that  Guil- 
ford  became  a  political  part  of  the  colonies.  In  its  early  days  it  was 
one  of  the  most  populous  Vermont  towns  and  for  several  years  a  bone 
of  contention  between  New  York  and  Vermont.  Two  sets  of  town 
officers  were  elected, — one  under  the  authority  of  each  government. 
In  1773  Vermont  ordered  General  Ethan  Allen  to  call  out  the  militia 
to  suppress  an  insurrection.  Coming  from  Bennington  with  a  force 
of  one  hundred  of  his  Green  Mountain  Boys  he  issued  the  follow- 
ing proclamation:  "I,  Ethan  Allen,  declare  that  unless  the  people 
of  Guilford  peaceably  submit  to  the  authority  of  Vermont  the  town 
shall  be  made  as  desolate  as  were  the  cities  of  Sodom  and  Gomorrah." 
The  New  York  people  were  driven  out  and  martial  law  established. 


R.  10  §  4.      W.  BANK:  GREENFIELD  TO  BELLOWS  FALLS       331 

Some  of  the  inhabitants  thought  that  Ethan  Allen  was  "more  to  be 
feared  than  death  with  all  its  terrors."  The  township  of  Bainbridge 
in  New  York  was  almost  wholly  settled  by  those  who  fled  from  here. 

20.0  BRATTLEBORO.  Alt  226  ft.  Pop  7541.  Windham  Co. 
Settled  1762.  Mfg.  canned  corn,  cotton  goods,  extracts, 
machinery,  chemicals,  furniture,  and  marble  and  granite. 

This  is  a  thriving  little  manufacturing  city  and  one  of  the 
first  English  settlements  in  Vermont.  It  is  a  well  built  town, 
picturesquely  situated  on  an  undulating  plateau  above  the 
river,  surrounded  by  an  amphitheater  of  heavily  wooded  hills. 

Main  Street,  the  principal  thoroughfare,  runs  parallel  with 
the  river  and  one  hundred  feet  above  it.  At  the  north  end  of 
the  town  is  a  park  on  the  edge  of  a  plateau  which  commands 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  mountains  and  the  valley  below.  Be- 
low the  park,  in  the  valley,  is  the  Vermont  Asylum  for  the 
Insane.  In  the  southern  part  of  the  town  is  Whetstone  Brook 
with  its  numerous  factories,  and  further  south  Cemetery  Hill 
from  which  there  is  a  view  of  the  town.  The  Vernon  dam  has 
backed  up  the  waters  of  the  Connecticut  into  a  twenty-mile 
lake,  on  which  there  is  good  boating.  Island  Park,  on  the 
river,  is  an  amusement  resort.  The  Country  Club  borders 
the  river  opposite  Mt.  Wantastiquet. 

William  Morris  Hunt,  the  artist  (see  Magnolia,  R.  36),  an  inti- 
mate friend  of  Millet,  the  great  French  painter,  and  Richard 
M.  Hunt,  the  prominent  New  York  architect,  were  born  here. 
Larkin  G.  Mead,  the  sculptor,  began  his  career  in  this  place: 
on  New  Year's  Eve  in  1856  he  made  from  the  snow  a  statue 
of  the  Recording  Angel,  that  attracted  widespread  attention 
from  the  entire  country.  His  sister  is  the  wife  of  William 
Dean  Howells.  His  brother,  who  was  born  here,  was  a  mem- 
ber of  the  noted  architectural  firm  of  McKim,  Mead  &  White. 
Here  too  lived  Royal  Tyler,  a  wit  and  poet,  who  later  became 
Chief  Justice  of  Vermont,  but  is  more  notable  as  the  author 
of  "The  Contrast,"  the  first  American  play  to  be  acted  upon 
a  regular  stage  by  an  established  company  of  players,  per- 
formed at  the  Old  John  Street  Theater  in  New  York,  1786. 

On  a  hillside  three  miles  north  of  the  town  is  Naulahka,  the 
Indian  bungalow  built  by  Rudyard  Kipling  about  a  splendid 
Indian  carving.  It  is  "a  long  low  two-storied  frame  bungalow 
of  but  a  single  room  in  depth,  whose  dun  hues  blend  and  har- 
monize with  those  of  the  hillside."  In  the  smoking  room  are 
clever  caricatures  by  'Spy,'  where  the  subject  of  the  artist's 
humor  left  them  a  score  of  years  ago.  Kipling  has  forsaken 
America  for  his  old  home,  but  the  cottage  and  its  splendid 
site  with  far-sweeping  views  of  the  Connecticut  valley  and  its 
hill  walls  testify  to  Kipling's  eye  for  scenic  beauty. 


332  BRATTLEBORO— BELLOWS  FALLS 

In  1891  Kipling  met  in  London  Wolcott  Balestier,  with  whom  he 
afterward  collaborated  in  his  story  "The  Naulahka."  The  acquaint- 
ance resulted  in  his  marrying  Balestier's  sister,  Caroline,  Jan.  18, 
1892.  The  Balestiers'  old  family  estate,  Beechwood,  was  at  Brattle- 
boro,  Vt.,  where  much  of  Mrs.  Kipling's  girlhood  was  passed.  A 
visit  with  her  husband  to  these  scenes  of  her  childhood  resulted  in 
the  selection  of  the  site  for  their  home  among  the  broad  Balestier 
acres.  From  August,  1892,  to  September,  1896,  this  was  Kipling's 
home.  It  was  in  this  hillside  cottage  that  two  of  his  children  were 
born,  and  some  of  the  poems  of  "The  Seven  Seas"  written,  the  "Jungle 
Books"  begun,  and  "Many  Inventions"  completed.  One  of  the 
stories  in  the  latter  volume  is  packed  with  local  allusion  and  observa- 
tion. The  horses  in  a  Vermont  pasture  brag  in  the  manner  of  their 
masters  of  their  ability  to  go  from  Brattleboro  to  Keene,  forty-two 
miles,  in  an  afternoon.  One  asserts  how  "the  Deacon,  the  absolutely 
steady  lady's  horse,"  can  keep  his  feet  "through  the  West  River 
bridge,  with  the  narrer-gauge  comin'  in  on  one  side  an'  the  Montreal 
flyer  the  other,  an'  the  old  bridge  teeterin'  between."  The  three 
bridges  are  there  today. 

Originally  called  Fort  Dummer,  the  first  outpost  in  the  Vermont 
part  of  the  Connecticut  valley  was  erected  here  in  1724  and  a  trading 
post  established.  The  site  of  the  fort  is  marked  by  a  granite  monu- 
ment one  mile  to  the  south  of  the  railway  station.  Brattleboro  was 
perhaps  the  first  organized  English  settlement  in  Vermont,  as  very 
few  pioneers  came  to  this  part  of  New  England  until  the  capture  of 
Quebec  in  1760  took  away  the  fear  of  the  French  and  Indians.  The 
town  was  named  for  William  Brattle,  a  Massachusetts  Loyalist,  of  the 
wellknown  Brattle  family.  Here  in  1845  was  established  by  Dr. 
Robert  Wesselhoeft,  a  distinguished  German,  one  of  the  earliest  water 
cures  so  popular  during  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century. 

The  town  is  widely  known  as  the  home,  ever  since  1846,  of  the  Estey 
Organ  works,  which  manufactures  reed  and  pipe  organs  and  pianos; 
its  founder,  Jacob  Estey,  was  one  of  Vermont's  first  self-made  men. 
Brattleboro  is  a  distributing  center  for  maple  sugar,  and  the  home  of 
one  of  the  country's  largest  chair  factories. 

30.0  PUTNEY.  Alt  320  ft.  Pop  (twp)  788.  Windham  Co.  Settled 
1764.  Mfg.  paper,  lumber,  and  brick. 

This  village,  high  above  the  river,  affords  an  excellent  view 
of  the  lake-like  defiles  and  the  further  side  of  the  valley.  The 
broad  meadows  are  extremely  fertile  and  produce  large  crops. 

In  1744  a  fort  was  built  here,  but  the  French-English  hostilities 
forced  its  abandonment  until  twenty  years  later,  when  the  first  per- 
manent settlement  was  made,  although  in  1755  settlers  built  several 
houses  in  a  square  and  attempted  vainly  to  hold  them  for  England. 

The  route  leaves  the  river  and  crosses  the  hills,  bearing 
right  past  left  fork  and  then  forking  left  at  the  top  of  the 
grade  (32.3).  From  the  hamlet  of  Putney  Falls  (33.0)  the 
road  crosses  the  town  line  and  draws  nearer  the  river. 

38.0  WESTMINSTER.  Alt  300  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1327.  Windham 
Co.  Settled  1751.  Mfg.  baskets,  canned  corn,  paper,  and 
gasoline  engines. 

Westminster,  a  fine  old  farming  town,  lies  on  a  tableland 
considerably  elevated  above  the  Connecticut,  enclosed  by  a 
semicircle  of  hills.  The  village  consists  almost  entirely  of 


R.  10  §  4.      W.  BANK:   GREENFIELD  TO  BELLOWS  FALLS       333 


one  broad  street  laid  out  during  the  reign  of  George  II  and 
called  the  King's  Highway.  It  is  the  birthplace  of  Henry  A. 
Willard,  the  wellknown  Washington  hotel  man. 

Westminster  is  one  of  the  oldest  Vermont  towns;    first  settled  in 
1734  and  later  abandoned,  it  was  finally  established  in  1751.     It  has 
played  a   prominent  part  in  history:  in    1774   a  convention   held  here 
resolved  that  "they  would  defend  their  just  rights  while  breath  was 
in  their  nostrils  and  blood  in  their  veins."     Representatives  from  the 
several  counties  and  towns  of  the  New  Hampshire   Grants,   in  con- 
vention at    Westminster,  Jan.    15,    1777,    resolved,  "That  we   will,  at 
all   times     hereafter,    consider   ourselves   as   a    free    and   independent 
State."      County  court  was  held  here  under  New  York  authority  and 
Tory  influence.     The  patriots  took  possession  of  the  court  and  en- 
deavored to  prevent  the  sitting.     They  were  attacked  by  the  Loyalists; 
two   men   were   killed   and   three   injured.     This   precipitated   an   up- 
rising, and  five  hundred  men  flocked  into  the  town  fully  armed.     The 
judge  and  other  court  officials  were  taken  to  Northampton  and  thrown 
into  jail.     A  gravestone  erected  to  one  of  the  men  killed  says: 
"Here  •William  French  his  body  lies, 
For  murder  his  Blood  for  Vengeance  cries. 
King  George  the  third  his  Tory  crew 
Tha  with  a  bawl  his  head  Shot  Threw. 
For  Liberty  and  his  Country's  Good 
He  Lost  his  Life  his  Dearest  Blood." 

Here  the  first  printing  office  was  established  in  Vermont,  and  the 
first  newspaper.  "The  Vermont  Gazette,  or  Green  Mountain  Postboy," 
was  printed,  on  the  old  Daye  press,  the  first  used  in  North  America 
north  of  Mexico,  and  now  the  choicest  possession  of  the  Vermont 
Historical  Society. 

The  road  runs  down  to  the  fork  just  before  reaching  R.R. 
station,  and  there  bears  left  (39.5),  paralleling  the  river  and 
R.R.  After  crossing  Cold  River  Ravine  and  the  Rockingham 
town  line  the  road  enters 

43.0  BELLOWS  FALLS.  Alt  300  ft.  Pop  4883.  Windham  Co. 
Settled  1753.  Mfg.  paper,  carriages,  dairy  machinery  and 
supplies,  and  baskets. 

Bellows  Falls  is  an  important  manufacturing  town,  the 
business  center  of  Rockingham  township,  and  the  second  town 
in  population  on  the  Vermont  side  of  the  valley.  It  is  located 
on  a  bluff  above  the  falls  of  the  Connecticut  and  opposite  the 
abrupt  heights  of  Kilburn's  Peak  (828  ft).  The  streets  are 
wide  and  tree-shaded,  with  a  number  of  handsome  residences. 
The  famous  and  fabulously  wealthy  Hetty  Green  of  New  York 
has  a  summer  residence  here.  It  has  recently  attained  news- 
paper celebrity  as  the  Gretna  Green  of  New  England. 

The  river  here  plunges  over  the  rocks  and  through  a  gorge 
with  a  fall  of  52  feet.  The  great  waterpower  has  been  fully 
utilized  in  the  development  of  industries;  it  is  conducted  by 
canals  to  most  of  the  mills,  situated  near  the  foot  of  the  falls. 
The  International  Paper  Company  and  some  other  concerns 
turn  out  1500  tons  of  finished  paper  and  ship  100  tons  of 


334  BELLOWS   FALLS— NORTHFIELD 

wood  pulp  each  week:  fifteen  million  feet  of  logs  are  an- 
nually reduced  to  pulp  here;  they  are  floated  down  the  upper 
Connecticut,  and  during  the  months  of  June  and  July  the 
drives  are  a  conspicuous  feature  of  river  life.  The  Vermont 
Farm  Machine  Co.,  organized  in  1868,  has  grown  from  a 
single  room  over  a  livery  stable  to  occupy  several  factories. 
Its  great  success  in  the  past  twenty  years  has  been  due  to  the 
development  of  cream  separators,  one  of  its  chief  products. 
The  Derby  &  Ball  Company  is  one  of  the  largest  concerns  in 
the  country  manufacturing  scythe  snaths. 

At  Saxtons  River,  a  village  five  miles  west  of  the  town,  is 
Vermont  Academy,  one  of  the  older  educational  institutions 
of  the  State.  The  Green  Mountain  Club,  an  organization 
devoted  to  the  enthusiastic  enjoyment  of  the  Vermont  moun- 
tains, was  founded  here  by  James  P.  Taylor,  who  gave  himself 
to  the  school  for  several  years  and  fostered  outdoor  life  and 
winter  sports  by  this  means.  Out  of  the  club  has  grown  the 
Greater  Vermont  Association,  to  which  Mr.  Taylor  now  wholly 
devotes  himself.  This  latter  organization,  with  headquarters 
in  Burlington,  is  one  of  the  foremost  of  sincere  community 
publicity  enterprises  in  the  nation. 

The  early  center  of  population  here  was  at  Rockingham  Center 
(R-  33),  where  there  is  an  old  meeting  house  dating  from  1773,  now 
preserved  as  a  historical  monument.  It  was  settled  in  1753  by  men 
from  Massachusetts,  and  named  in  honor  of  the  Marquis  of  Rocking- 
ham, a  member  of  the  British  Ministry.  The  Falls  were  so  named 
in  honor  of  Colonel  Benjamin  Bellows,  one  of  the  foremost  settlers  of 
this  region.  The  first  settlement  at  the  Falls  was  in  1761.  The  first 
bridge  to  span  the  Connecticut  was  built  here  on  the  site  of  the  present 
bridge  in  1785.  Paper  was  first  manufactured  here  in  1802. 

Early  in  the  nineteenth  century  a  canal  was  constructed  around  the 
Falls  by  an  English  corporation  to  facilitate  river  navigation,  but  with 
the  development  of  railroads  this  proved  a  losing  enterprise,  and  in 
1857  was  sold.  In  1871  a  majority  of  the  stock  was  purchased  by  Will- 
iam A.  Russell,  who  developed  waterpower  here  of  nearly  14,000  h.p. 
by  widening  the  canal  to  75  feet  and  increasing  the  depth  to  17  feet. 
This  power  is  leased  in  shares  of  85  h.p.  each,  and  at  the  present  time 
the  International  Paper  Company  holds  135  of  the  163  shares.  The 
power  from  the  Vernon  dam  (p  329)  has  stimulated  further  industrial 
enterprise  here. 

Four  miles  above  Bellows  Falls  to  the  left  of  the  river,  near  the  cut 
known  as  Williams  Rock,  is  a  stone  marker  erected  by  the  G.A.R. 
in  1912  on  the  spot  where  the  first  Protestant  sermon  in  Vermont  was 
delivered  by  the  Rev.  John  Williams  to  the  Deerfield  captives  and 
their  Indian  captors  when  they  rested  here  on  that  Sunday  in  1784. 


R.  10  §  4.     East  Bank :  Millers  Falls  to  Charlestown.    51.5m. 

This  section  of  the  Connecticut  Valley  Route  follows  closely 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  river.  The  roads  traversed  are  town 
and  county  roads,  mostly  in  very  fair  condition.  The  New 


R.  10  §  4.     E.  BANK:  MILLERS  FALLS  TO  CHARLESTOWN    335 

Hampshire  West  Side  State  Highway,  to  be  marked  by  light 
blue  bands  on  poles  and  fences,  at  Hinsdale  (p  336)  turns 
away  from  the  Connecticut  valley.  The  principal  points  of 
interest  are  the  old  villages  of  Charlestown  and  Walpole,  the 
manufacturing  town  of  Claremont,  and  the  distinguished 
artist  center  of  Cornish.  Of  the  many  fine  views  along  the 
river,  those  of  Mt.  Ascutney  from  south  and  from  north  are 
especially  imposing. 

From  Millers  River  the  route  leads  north  near  Mount 
Hermon  School  (p  329),  to 

9.0     NORTHFIELD.     Alt  300  ft.     Pop   (twp)   1642.     Franklin   Co. 
Settled  1673. 

This  quiet,  tree-shaded  village  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
broad  terraces  rising  from  the  meadows  of  the  Connecticut, 
which  here  flows  in  long,  graceful  curves.  Northfietd  has 
become  famous  as  the  center  of  the  schools  and  conferences 
established  by  the  famous  evangelist  Dwight  L.  Moody.  The 
annual  summer  conferences  begun  by  him  in  1880  attract 
hundreds  of  Christian  workers  during  midsummer.  The  rustic 
homes  of  'conference  people'  now  dot  the  slopes  of  Strow- 
bridge  Hill  and  Notch  Mountain. 

Northfield  Seminary  was  founded  by  Moody  in  1879  to 
teach  practical  Christian  work.  Endowment  and  gifts  and  the 
household  work  done  by  the  students  make  possible  a  low 
tuition.  The  Russell  Sage  Chapel,  of  Rockport  granite,  was 
erected  in  1909  from  Mrs.  Sage's  gift  of  $150,000. 

The  old  farmhouse  where  Moody  was  born  in  1837  still 
stands  adjoining  the  campus.  It  was  while  he  was  a  successful 
shoe  salesman  in  Chicago  that  he  turned  to  evangelistic  work. 

Clarkes  Island  in  the  river  near  Northfield  has  a  tale  of 
a  buried  treasure  connected  with  the  famous  Captain  Kidd. 
The  red  sandstone  about  here  has  yielded  large  numbers  of 
fossil  imprints  of  the  so-called  'bird  tracks'  made  by  reptiles 
when  the  sandstone  was  a  vast  mud  flat  on  the  shore  of  an 
inland  sea  (p  413). 

The  site  of  Northfield  was  known  to  the  Indians  as  Squakheags, 
meaning  "a  spearing  place  for  salmon."  Settled  in  ^1673,  just  before 
the  outbreak  of  King  Philip's  War,  it  was  during  its  early  years  a 
frontier  outpost  which  tempted  Indian  attacks,  so  that  its  third  and 
permanent  settlement  was  in  1714.  On  Sept.  2,  1676,  the  Indians 
attempted  the  capture  of  the  town.  Captain  Beers  with  thirty-six 
troopers  was  sent  to  the  rescue  from  Hadley.  The  troopers,  fearing 
an  ambush,  were  on  the  lookout  for  Indians,  but  not  a  trace  of  them 
could  be  found.  At  the  peaceful  spot  since  known  as  Beers  Plain  they 
lingered  to  eat  the  wild  grapes  which  lined  the  way.  All  at  once  a 
band  of  concealed  savages  sprang  out  at  the  dismayed  troopers,  and 
in  the  slaughter  which  followed  only  sixteen  escaped.  Major  Treat 
with  a  relief  party  arrived  too  late  to  be  of  any  assistance,  but  he 


336  NORTHFIELD— WESTMORELAND 

succeeded  in  succoring  Northfield.  The  town  was  abandoned  by  the 
settlers  and  then  burned  by  the  Indians.  On  Beers  Plain  there  is  a 
monument  marking  the  spot  where  the  gallant  captain  fell. 

The  route  runs  straight  on  through  East  Northfield  (10.0), 
following  the  dark  blue  markers  to  the  New  Hampshire  line, 
where  the  pole  marks  are  to  be  light  blue  with  white  border. 

16.0  HINSDALE.  Alt  340  ft.  Pop  1673.  Cheshire  Co.  Mfg.  lawn- 
mowers,  paper,  lumber,  and  turbine  water-wheels. 

Hinsdale  is  an  old  country  village  in  the  midst  of  a  good 
farming  region.  The  terraces  of  the  Connecticut  between 
Hinsdale  and  the  Vermont  town  of  Dummer  are  among  the 
finest  of  the  whole  valley. 

The  main-traveled  road  up  the  valley  leads  through  North 
Hinsdale,  crossing  the  river  to  Brattleboro  and  Bellows  Falls 
(P333)- 

Note.  The  light  blue-marked  route,  the  New  Hampshire 
'West  Side  Road,'  turns  right  at  Hinsdale  and  leads  northward 
through  Keene  to  Newport  and  Lebanon  (83.0);  it  is  an  ex- 
cellent gravel  road  through  a  rolling  country  without  heavy 
grades,  and  is  much  used  instead  of  the  route  nearer  the  east 
bank  of  the  Connecticut. 

As  the  route  follows  a  succession  of  river  valleys  the  scenery 
is  pastoral  and  quiet,  bounded  by  the  low  hill  ranges  to  east 
and  west.  Farming  and  lumbering  are  the  principal  occupa- 
tions, with  the  manufacture  of  lumber  products.  Keene  and 
Newport,  from  which  Lake  Sunapee  is  quickly  reached,  are 
the  main  points  of  interest. 

Following  the  Ashuelot  river  through  the  villages  of  Ashuelot 
(2.5),  Winchester  (5.0),  Westport  (n.o),  and  West  Swanzey 
(13.5),  the  route  follows  the  light  blue  banded  poles  through 
the  busy  little  city  of  KEENE  (19.0),  crossing  Route  33.  It 
then  continues  up  the  Ashuelot  valley  through  Gilsum  (28.0), 
Marlow  (34.5),  and  East  Lempster  (43.8),  climbing  the  slight 
divide  into  the  valley  of  Goshen  Brook,  which  it  descends,  past 
Mill  Village  (49.8)  to  NEWPORT  (54.6),  on  Route  43.  After 
leaving  this  little  summer  center  the  road  leads  on  beside  the 
Sugar  river  and  then  northward  up  Croydon  Brook  through 
the  villages  of  Croydon  Flat  (58.3)  and  Croydon  (61.6). 

The  little  hamlet  of  Croydon  was  the  home  of  Ruel  Durkee, 
long  the  political  'boss'  of  New  Hampshire.  He  is  said  to 
have  been  the  original  of  "  Jethro  Bass,"  the  central  figure  of 
Winston  Churchill's  novel  "Coniston."  Austin  Corbin,  the 
railroad  magnate  of  a  previous  generation,  was  also  a  native  of 
this  town.  Immediately  to  the  west  rises  the  great  ridge  of 
Blue  Mountain,  now  a  great  game  preserve  of  25,0x50  acres, 
known  as  Corbin  Park  (p  354). 


R.  10  §  4.     E.  BANK:  MILLERS  FALLS  TO  CHARLESTOWN    337 

The  route  continues  through  Grantham  (65.0),  crossing  a 
divide,  and  follows  a  pleasant  brook  down  to  Lebanon  (79.2) 
and  West  Lebanon  (83.0),  where  the  road  joins  the  main 
route  again  (p  360). 

Note.  From  Hinsdale  the  shortest  route  leads  over  a  hilly 
dirt  road  in  a  wooded,  sparsely  inhabited  region.  The  Pisgah 
primeval  forest,  a  mile  or  two  east  of  the  road,  has  the  largest 
growth  of  white  pines  in  the  East,  some  of  them  with  a  girth 
of  twelve  to  fifteen  feet.  Passing  through  the  village  of 
Chesterfield  (7.0),  a  mile  and  a  half  further  on  the  road  reaches 
LAKE  SPOFFORD  (724  ft),  a  beautiful  little  sheet  of  water  with 
irregular  wooded  shores  and  sandy  beaches,  nine  miles  in 
circumference.  Across  the  lake  to  the  north  is  Pistareen 
Mountain  (1060  ft);  along  the  shore  are  a  number  of  summer 
camps  and  residences.  The  chief  resort  is  the  Pine  Grove 
Springs  Hotel,  very  attractively  situated  near  a  good  golf 
course.  Nearby  is  the  spring  from  which  it  takes  its  name. 
William  Dean  Howells  was  much  impressed  with  the  beauty 
of  this  little  lake  and  compared  it  to  the  lakes  of  Italy.  The 
road  rises  700  feet  and  then  descends  rapidly  into  Westmoreland 
(16.0),  joining  the  main  route  and  Route  40. 

The  road  along  the  east  bank  of  the  Connecticut  passes 
straight  through  Hinsdale  and  North  Hinsdale  (20.0).  At 
North  Hinsdale  a  stone  monument  near  the  junction  of  the 
roads  is  inscribed:  "In  memory  of  14  men  who  were  way- 
laid by  Indians  near  this  place  June  16,  1748."  The  road 
skirts  the  base  of  Mt.  Wantastiquet  (1364  ft),  which  stands 
like  a  sentinel  over  the  valley.  A  good  carriage  road  has  been 
constructed  up  the  mountain,  and  at  its  foot  is  a  bridge  to 
Brattleboro  (p  331).  The  road  follows  the  bank  past  West 
Chesterfield  (26.5),  Ware's  Ferry  (31.0),  and  Parkhill  (34.0), 
where  it  forks  to  the  left. 

34.5  WESTMORELAND.  Alt  506  ft.  Pop  (twp)  758.  Cheshire  Co. 
Settled  1741.  Mfg.  lumber. 

The  village  lies  in  a  beautiful  region  not  unlike  the  landscape 
of  its  English  namesake. 

One  of  the  earliest  New  Hampshire  settlements  on  the  Connecticut 
river,  it  was  originally  called  'The  Great  Meadow,'  from  a  considerable 
intervale  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Connecticut  river.  It  was  also 
often  styled  'No.  2,'  being  the  second  in  a  range  of  townships  granted 
on  the  Connecticut  at  the  same  time,  of  which  Chesterfield  was  No.  i; 
Walpole,  No.  3;  and  Charlestown,  No.  4.  A  small  fort,  or  block- 
house, was  erected  here  in  1741  by  emigrants  who  came  up  the  river 
in  canoes.  Like  the  other  valley  towns  it  suffered  much  from  Indian 
raids. 

Continuing  north  from  Parkhill,  but  at  some  distance 
from  the  river  bank,  the  route  reaches 


338  WALPOLE— CHARLESTOWN 

42.0  WALPOLE.  Alt  271  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2668.  Cheshire  Co.  Inc. 
1752.  Mfg.  cider. 

Walpole  is  a  fine  old  country  town  on  the  fertile  terraces  of 
the  Connecticut,  with  a  background  of  glorious  hills.  The 
number  of  Colonial  mansions  attests  its  early  prosperity. 

Main  Street  with  its  rows  of  fine  elms  and  handsome  old 
residences  has  an  air  of  quiet  dignity.  Here  is  the  house  of 
Thomas  Bellows  Peck,  built  in  1792,  and  the  old  house  of 
Colonel  Josiah  Bellows,  now  the  residence  of  Mr.  J.  G.  Bellows. 
One  of  the  finest  examples  of  Colonial  architecture  in  the  town 
is  the  house  on  Westminster  St.  now  owned  by  Miss  Fanny 
P.  Mason  of  Boston.  The  estate  of  Colonel  Benjamin  Bellows 
is  the  property  of  Copley  Amory  of  Boston.  Some  of  the 
finest  of  the  old  homesteads  stretch  along  the  bank  of  the 
river.  On  the  outskirts  of  the  town  is  Glenside,  the  residence 
of  Rear-admiral  Henry  B.  Robeson.  Rebecca  Hooper  East- 
man, the  playwright,  has  a  residence  here. 

Walpole  was  incorporated  in  1752  along  with  a  number  of  the  other 
valley  towns.  Colonel  Benjamin  Bellows  seems  to  have  been  the 
leading  spirit  of  the  little  community  and  is  the  hero  of  several  Indian 
attacks.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that  at  that  time  salmon  were  so 
plentiful  in  the  river  that  Colonel  Bellows'  hired  men  refused  to  have 
the  fish  served  to  them  more  than  three  days  a  week. 

In  August,  1755,  occurred  the  Indian  attack  and  siege  of  John 
Kilburn's  house.  Surrounded  by  palisades,  it  stood  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  Colonel  Bellows'  fort  under  the  shadow  of  Kilburn's  Peak,  named 
for  its  hero.  Kilburn,  with  the  assistance  of  his  wife  and  young  sons 
and  daughters,  defended  his  stout  log  house  against  400  savages.  The 
women  moulded  the  bullets,  loaded  the  guns,  and  when  they  became 
too  hot  from  frequent  firing  cooled  them  in  a  water  trough.  When 
the  stock  of  lead  ran  short,  blankets  were  stretched  in  the  upper  part 
of  the  roof  to  catch  the  bullets  which  came  through.  These  were 
quickly  remolded  and  returned  to  their  senders.  The  attack  con- 
tinued all  day,  but  ended  with  only  one  of  the  family  wounded. 

The  first  bridge  to  span  the  Connecticut  river  was  built  between 
Walpole  and  Bellows  Falls  in  1785  on  the  site  of  the  present  bridge. 
A  century  ago  Walpole  had  more  than  a  local  reputation  for  its  'Society 
of  Wits,'  chief  of  whom  was  'Joe'  Dennie,  known  as  the  'American 
Addison,'  "delicately  made,  needy  of  purse,  but  usually  dressing  in 
pumps  and  white  stockings,"  who  here  edited  the  "Farmers'  Weekly 
Museum."  Cider  was  once  a  popular  product  with  the  townspeople, 
who  have  been  known  to  consume  4800  barrels  in  a  year,  an  average 
of  three  barrels  for  each  man,  woman,  and  child. 

The  main-traveled  road  from  here  to  Cold  River  is  that  via 
Bellows  Falls  and  the  West  Bank  (p  340).  The  New  Hamp- 
shire road  leads  straight  on  through  the  riverside  hamlet  of 
Cold  River  (44.0)  and  past  Kilburn  Peak,  joining  the  road 
which  enters  from  the  bridge  on  the  left,  and  reaching  South 
Charlestown  (47.5).  The  route  leads  on  to 

SI. 5     CHARLESTOWN.     Alt  369  ft.    Pop  (twp)  1473.     Sullivan  Co. 

Settled  1740.    Mfg.  violin  cases,  boxes,  and  taps  and  dies. 

Charlestown  is  a  dignified  old  village  placidly  set   in  the 


R.  10  §  4.     E.  BANK:  MILLERS  FALLS  TO  CHARLESTOWN     339 

midst  of  rich  meadows,  and  still  gives  evidence  of  its  early 
nineteenth  century  prosperity.  Its  long  street,  parallel  with 
the  river,  broad,  and  shaded  by  rows  of  magnificent  elms,  has 
upon  it  some  fine  substantial  old  residences.  Route  43,  from 
Lake  Sunapee,  crosses  the  river  here. 

Massachusetts  granted  the  township  now  Charlestown,  which  was 
long  designated  as  Number  Four.  The  first  permanent  settlement 
was  in  1740  by  people  from  Massachusetts.  A  fort  was  built  enclosing 
about  three  quarters  of  an  acre.  Its  walls  were  of  massive  square- 
hewn  timbers  laid  horizontally,  and  within  were  the  more  important 
houses.  A  boulder  now  marks  its  site.  In  1747  the  fort,  garrisoned  by 
but  thirty,  withstood  a  siege  by  400  French  and  Indians,  and  com- 
pelled them  to  retreat  to  Canada.  Captain  Phineas  Stevens,  the 
gallant  defender,  was  highly  honored  by  the  people,  and  Commodore 
Sir  Charles  Knowles,  whose  ship  then  lay  at  Boston,  sent  him  a  sword. 
Therefore  when  the  town  was  resettled  it  was  called  Charlestown  in 
honor  of  Sir  Charles. 

On  an  August  evening  in  1754  there  had  been  a  party  at  the  Johnson 
house  on  the  outskirts  of  the  settlement.  They  had  spent  the  evening 
"very  cheerfully"  with  "watermelons  and  flip  till  midnight,"  and 
perhaps  slept  over-soundly.  Surprised  by  a  sudden  Indian  attack  at 
dawn,  seven  of  them,  including  Mrs.  Johnson,  were  taken  captives 
and  hastily  rushed  northward  through  the  wilderness  to  be  held  for 
ransom  in  Canada.  Mrs.  Johnson  was  mounted  on  a  horse,  'Old 
Scoggin.'  The  first  night  they  camped  in  Weathersfield.  Mrs. 
Johnson's  "Narrative"  recounts  with  realistic  gusto  the  privations 
and  tortures  of  the  journey. 

"The  men  were  made  secure  in  having  their  legs  put  in  split  sticks, 
somewhat  like  stocks,  and  tied  to  the  limbs  of  trees  too  high  to  be 
reached.  My  sister  .  .  .  must  lie  between  two  Indians,  with  a  cord 
thrown  over  her,  and  passing  under  each  of  them.  ...  I  was  taken 
with  the  pangs  of  child-birth.  The  Indians  signified  that  we  must 
go  on  to  a  brook.  When  we  got  there  they  showed  some  humanity 
by  making  a  booth  for  me.  .  .  .  My  children  were  crying  at  a  distance, 
where  they  were  held  by  their  masters,  and  only  my  husband  and  sister 
to  attend  me, — none  but  mothers  can  figure  to  themselves  my  unhappy 
posture.  The  Indians  kept  aloof  the  whole  time.  About  ten  o'clock 
a  daughter  was  born.  ...  I  was  permitted  to  rest  for  the  remainder 
of  the  day.  The  Indians  were  employed  in  making  a  bier  for  the 
prisoners  to  carry  me  on  and  another  booth  for  my  lodging  during 
night." 

Forty  years  later  Mrs.  Johnson  returned  to  this  spot  and  commis- 
sioned a  stone  cutter  to  make  two  monuments, — one  to  mark  the 
place  of  the  birth,  the  other  of  the  encampment.  His  handiwork 
may  still  be  seen  beside  the  road  a  mile  south  of  Felchville,  but  through 
some  mistake  the  two  monuments  were  set  side  by  side.  The  larger 
one  bears  this  inscription: 

"This  is  near  the  spot  that  the  Indians  /  Encamped  the  Night  after 
they  took  /  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Johnson  and  Family,  Mr.  Larabee  /  and 
Farnsworth  August  3Oth,  1754,  And  /  Mrs.  Johnson  was  Delivered  of 
her  /  Child  Half  a  mile  up  this  Brook. 

"  When  troubles  near  the  Lord  is  Kind 
He  hears  the  Captives  cry 
He  can  subdue  the  Savage  hand 
And  Learn  it  Sympathy." 

For  more  than  twenty  years  Charlestown  remained  a  frontier  post 
against  which  the  French  and  Indian  raids  from  the  north  were  directed. 


340  CHARLESTOWN— WEATHERSFIELD    BOW 


During  the  closing  years  of  the  last  French  War  it  was  the  military 
base  from  which  was  cut  the  Old  Crown  Point  Road  over  which  the 
Colonial  troops  advanced  to  assist  Lord  Amherst  in  the  taking  of 
Crown  Point.  This  road,  long  since  abandoned,  is  of  great  historic 
interest.  Over  it,  in  1776,  were  dragged  the  heavy  cannon  from 
Crown  Point  which  crowned  the  heights  of  Dorchester  over  Boston  and 
compelled  the  evacuation  of  the  town  by  General  Gage.  During  the 
Revolution  Charlestown  was  continuously  garrisoned  and  was  an  im- 
portant depot  of  military  stores.  General  Stark  made  it  the  rendez- 
vous of  the  New  Hampshire  troops  before  the  Battle  of  Bennington. 

THE  OLD  CROWN  POINT  ROAD.  In  the  summer  of  1728  an  exploring 
party  of  travelers  traversed  the  "Indian  Road"  by  way  of  the  Connec- 
ticut, Black  River,  Otter  Creek,  and  Lake  Champlain.  This  was  the 
road  usually  taken  by  the  Indians  coming  from  the  north  to  trade  at  the 
Truck  House  at  Fort  Dummer.  James  Cross,  a  trader  at  Deerfield, 
kept  a  diary  of  the  journey  he  made  over  this  road  in  1730.  The 
project  of  building  a  road  through  from  the  Connecticut  to  Crown 
Point  had  long  been  mooted,  and  in  the  spring  of  1756  the  General 
Court  at  Boston  passed  an  order  for  an  examination  of  a  route  "by 
the  directest  course"  from  Number  Four  to  Crown  Point.  Colonel 
Williams  of  Hatfield  made  a  topographical  sketch  of  the  country, 
compiled  from  the  reports  of  scouting  parties.  Because  of  the  hostile 
Indians  infesting  the  region  the  project  was  not  renewed  until  1759, 
when  General  Amherst  had  succeeded  to  the  command.  The  first 
cutting  was  on  the  west  side  of  the  Green  Mountains  in  the  summer 
of  1759,  under  the  direction  of  General  Stark  and  Major  Hawkes. 

The  following  summer  Colonel  Goffe  with  a  regiment  of  800  New 
Hampshire  men,  having  opened  up  a  path  from  the  Merrimack  to  the 
Connecticut  by  way  of  Keene,  began  in  June  to  complete  the  road 
from  Wentworth's  Ferry,  two  miles  north  of  Charlestown,  to  Otter 
Creek.  They  first  built  a  large  blockhouse  close  to  the  ferry  landing 
on  the  Vermont  side.  It  took  forty-five  days  to  cut  the  road  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountains.  The  road  followed  the  devious  course  of  the 
Old  Indian  Trail  over  the  hills  through  the  present  towns  of  Spring- 
field and  Weathersfield,  Cavendish  and  Ludlow  to  the  Green  Moun- 
tains. At  every  mile  a  post  was  set  up.  Twenty-six  had  been  placed 
when  the  mountains  were  reached. 

Thirty-three  stone  monuments  now  mark  the  Old  Crown  Point 
Road,  and  as  many  more  will  soon  be  placed  by  the  Colonial  Dames 
and  other  patriotic  organizations.  The  town  of  Springfield  has  placed 
nine  stone  markers,  the  first  of  which  is  on  the  site  of  the  Old  Block 
House  at  the  Ferry.  Cavendish  has  placed  a  marker  at  the  twenty- 
mile  encampment.  An  interesting  account  of  this  road  is  given  in 
the  "Vermonter"  of  1910. 


R.  10  §  5.     West  Bank: 

Bellows  Falls  to  White  River  Junction.       43.0  m. 

The  route  continues  along'  the  gravel-surfaced  State  High- 
way, except  for  the  stretch  of  town  road  between  Bellows  Falls 
and  Springfield  Bridge.  This  is  perhaps  the  most  beautiful 
portion  of  the  valley.  The  chief  attractions  are  Mt.  Ascutney, 
the  fine  old  village  of  Windsor,  and  the  gorge  of  Ottaquechee. 

The  route  leaves  Bellows  Falls  by  Rockingham  St.,  follow- 
ing the  river  bank  and  avoiding  all  left  forks,  and  crossing  the 
Windsor  county  and  Springfield  town  line.  The  road  bears 


R.  10  §  5.     W.  BK.  BELLOWS  FALLS  TO  W.  RIV.  JUNG.  341 

right  and  then  left  of  the  crossroads  (10.0),  which  lead  on  the 
left  to  Springfield  Village  (R.  33),  and  on  the  right  to  Spring- 
field Station,  across  the  river. 

Joining  the  State  Road  at  this  point,  the  route  continues 
along  the  bank  with  Mt.  Ascutney  (3330  ft)  rising  grandly 
beyond.  Crossing  the  Weathersfield  town  line  (16.0)  the  road 
soon  passes  through 

18.S  WEATHERSFIELD  BOW.  Alt  350  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1092. 
Windsor  Co.  Settled  1761.  Mfg.  lime  and  soapstone. 

This  pleasant  old  farming  hamlet  lies  on  the  meadows  of  the 
Connecticut  at  a  point  where  the  river  makes  the  bend  called 
Weathersfield  Bow.  To  the  north  stand  up  Mt.  Ascutney  and 
Little  Ascutney. 

More  than  a  century  ago  the  Hon.  William  Jarvis,  who  had  been 
Consul  and  Charge  d'Affaires  to  Portugal  under  President  Jefferson, 
bought  2000  acres  near  the  Bow  when  he  retired  from  office.  He 
imported  3500  merino  sheep  at  a  time  when  the  rapidly  developing 
textile  industries  of  America  were  demanding  a  higher  grade  of  wool. 
Owing  to  the  cost  of  her  wars,  Spain  was  obliged  to  sell  many  of  her 
world-famous  flocks  of  sheep  which  she  had  been  breeding  and  im- 
proving for  a  thousand  years.  Jarvis  also  imported  Holstein  cattle 
and  English-bred  horses  for  his  famous  farm.  This  little  district  has 
ever  since  contained  some  of  the  best  farms  in  Vermont.  John  P. 
Squire,  the  wellknown  pork  packer,  was  born  at  Weathersfield. 

Note.  Weathersfield  Center  lies  in  a  beautiful  valley  five 
miles  back  from  the  river.  Perkinsville,  nine  miles  west, 
named  for  a  Boston  capitalist  who  established  a  mill  for  the 
manufacture  of  broadcloth,  cassimere,  and  satinet,  is  the 
livest  village  in  the  township,  and  manufactures  soapstone 
wash  tubs,  stoves,  sinks,  and  foot  warmers.  The  quarries  are 
located  on  Hawkes  Mountain  above  the  village.  The  village 
of  Amsden,  six  miles  away,  named  for  Charles  Amsden,  has 
lime  kilns. 

Weathersfield,  though  differing  in  orthography,  was  named  for  and 
settled  by  people  from  Wethersfield,  Conn,  (p  296).  This  township 
was  one  of  scores  granted  by  Governor  Benning  Wentworth  in  1761 
to  proprietors,  largely  of  New  Haven.  The  first  actual  settlement 
was  in  1769  in  the  southern  and  eastern  portions  of  the  town.  Up  to 
1785  the  people  of  Weathersfield  were  obliged  to  go  across  the  river  to 
Claremont  to  church.  The  first  minister  in  Weathersfield  was  Rev. 
James  Converse  of  a  family  which  came  to  England  with  William  the 
Conqueror  from  Navarre,  when  the  name  was  spelt  Coigniers.  Its 
best-known  descendant  today  is  Frederick  Shepherd  Converse,  one 
of  our  promising  orchestral  and  operatic  composers.  In  1774  one 
William  Dean  carved  out  a  farm  at  the  foot  of  Ascutney.  In  ignorance 
or  defiance  of  the  law  he  cut  down  some  of  the  great  pines  which  had 
been  reserved  for  masts  of  the  Royal  Navy  and  was  arrested  and  taken 
a  prisoner  to  Albany.  Little  wonder  the  colonists  rebelled  against 
such  royal  tyranny.  The  government  they  set  up  for  themselves  was 
evidently  on  quite  different  lines,  for  in  the  good  old  days  in  1789  we 
read  of  a  legislative  enactment  which  authorized  John  Hubbard  to 
organize  a  lottery  that  he  might  thereby  raise  the  sum  of  150  pounds 
with  which  to  erect  a  brewery. 


342  WEATHERSFIELD    BOW— WINDSOR 

Still  following  the  river  bank,  with  Barber  Mountain  on  the 
opposite  shore,  the  route  enters  Ascutneyville  (23.0),  a  pretty 
little  hamlet  near  the  base  of  the  mountain. 

Mt.  Ascutney  is  the  highest  elevation  in  the  Connecticut 
valley  and  dominates  the  landscape  for  twenty  miles  in  every 
direction.  Though  but  little  over  3000  feet  in  height,  it 
rises  directly  from  the  valley  floor,  here  less  than  300  feet 
above  sea  level,  and  its  summit  is  only  three  miles  from  the 
river.  An  isolated  peak,  a  compact,  broadly  conical  out- 
line, it  forms  the  principal  feature  of  the  views  from  the  towns 
of  Windsor,  Cornish,  Claremont,  and  Weathersfield,  and  for 
this  reason  enjoys  a  special  reputation  for  its  landscape  beauty. 
The  name  is  of  Indian  origin  and  signifies  "the  three  brothers," 
perhaps  on  account  of  its  triple  summit. 

To  the  geologist,  Ascutney  is  "a  Monadnock  overlooking  a  dis- 
sected rolling  plateau."  As  Dr.  R.  C.  Daly,  who  has  published  a 
monograph  on  the  geology  of  Ascutney,  expresses  it:  "Ascutney  is  a 
residual  of  erosion.  It  has  been  carved  out  of  this  part  of  the  once 
lofty  Appalachian  Mountain  System  where  the  sedimentary  rocks  of 
the  range  have  been  intruded  by  several  stocks  and  thick  dikes  of 
igneous  rock.  .  .  .  Ascutney  owes  its  existence  primarily  to  a  great 
stock  of  quartz  and  syenite."  Two  kinds  of  so-called  granite  have 
been  quarried  from  the  sides  of  the  mountain.  The  huge  columns 
of  dark  green  in  the  library  of  Columbia  University  came  from  the 
quarries  above  Windsor.  Its  isolated  position  makes  it  a  splendid 
observatory  with  a  view  including  Greylock,  Mansfield,  the  White 
Mountains,  and  Lake  Sunapee  and  Monadnock.  The  Ascutney 
Mountain  Association,  a  pioneer  organization  of  its  kind,  established  in 
1904,  maintains  a  stone  cabin  on  the  summit  for  the  free  use  of 
climbers,  and  a  log  cabin  is  maintained  on  Weathersfield  Peak,  to 
the  west.  The  road  to  the  summit  is  in  part  that  which  the  residents 
commenced  for  Lafayette  to  use  on  his  grand  tour,  but  the  guest 
changed  his  plans  and  the  road  was  finished  a  century  later. 

Just  before  entering  Windsor  we  pass  the  extensive  estate  of 
Mr.  Kennedy,  of  cracker  fame,  on  which  there  are  thirty-eight 
buildings.  To  the  right  are  the  dairy  barns.  The  residence 
is  on  the  hill  above  the  road.  In  the  large  riding  hall  a  corn 
show  is  held  every  year.  In  the  old  Lamson  stone  mill  on  Mill 
River  were  made  the  first  turret  lathes. 

28.S  WINDSOR.  Alt  324  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3407.  Windsor  Co.  Settled 
1764.  Mfg.  turret  lathes,  screw  machines,  tools,  scales,  and 
canned  corn. 

The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  terraced  meadows 
under  the  shadow  of  Ascutney.  The  history  of  eastern  Ver- 
mont centers  here,  and  the  quiet  shaded  streets  still  present 
some  architectural  evidences  of  the  time  when  Windsor  was 
the  first  town  in  importance  and  wealth  in  the  State.  That 
was  in  the  first  period  of  its  history  up  to  the  early  nineteenth 
century,  when,  as  since,  it  was  distinguished  as  a  town  of 
learning  and  refinement.  Square,  commodious  Colonial  dwell- 


R.  10  §  5-     W.  BK.   BELLOWS  FALLS  TO  W.  RIV.  JUNC.  343 

ings  with  fine  porticoes  and  doorways  face  the  quiet  elm- 
shaded  streets.  The  old  Evarts  homestead  stands  on  the 
main  street.  William  Maxwell  Evarts,  of  the  famous  New 
York  law  firm  of  Evarts,  Choate  &  Beaman,  was  Attorney- 
general  under  Johnson,  and  Secretary  of  State  in  the  Cabinet  of 
President  Hayes.  On  the  hill  overlooking  the  town,  among 
the  pines,  is  the  huge  white  house  of  the  late  Maxwell  Evarts, 
who  was  much  interested  in  the  town's  industries  and  owned 
hundreds  of  acres  about  Windsor.  Another  son,  Sherman 
Evarts,  resides  here.  Prescott  Evarts,  the  rector  of  Christ 
Church  in  Cambridge,  retains  his  interest  in  Windsor.  Marie 
Dressier,  the  actress,  has  a  summer  home  in  this  vicinity. 
The  Government  Building  has  recently  been  used  for  the 
summer  executive  offices  of  the  President.  On  the  outskirts 
of  the  town  is  the  Vermont  State  Prison.  The  Windsor 
Machine  Company  is  the  principal  industrial  plant.  It  was 
resuscitated  some  years  ago  by  Max  Evarts,  but  since  the  war 
it  has  had  a  tremendous  boom.  It  manufactures  turret  lathes 
and  other  machinery  used  in  turning  out  rifles  and  shells. 
The  plant  has  been  enormously  expanded,  its  shed-like  build- 
ings extending  over  the  once  beautiful  meadow.  The  river 
bank  has  been  turned  into  a  dump  for  refuse.  But  what 
matters  it !  It  has  paid  enormous  dividends  and  has  multiplied 
its  capital  stock  many  times.  Its  stock  has  recently  been  sold 
at  more  than  $1100  a  share  to  the  National  Acme  Manu- 
facturing Company  of  Cleveland. 

The  first  white  man  to  live  on  the  site  of  Windsor  was  in  all  proba- 
bility one  of  those  hardy  Connecticut  trappers,  Emmons  by  name, 
who  put  up  a  primitive  cabin  here  in  1764  and  was  soon  joined  by  a 
family  with  the  unusual  name  of  Smith  and  a  considerable  number  of 
military  and  ecclesiastical  personages  with  such  titles  as  Major,  Cap- 
tain, Deacon,  most  of  whom  came  from  Connecticut.  One  of  the 
early  cases  of  'thought  it  was  a  bear'  occurred  during  these  first 
years,  when  Joab  Hoisington,  out  hunting  with  one  Bartlett,  shot  him 
on  hearing  a  rustle  in  the  woods. 

In  July,  1777,  "amidst  the  tumults  of  war,"  Windsor  was  the  scene 
of  the  convention  which  formulated  the  State  constitution.  The 
meetings  were  at  first  held  in  the  old  South  Church,  but  soon  adjourned 
to  the  great  arched  ball  room  of  the  village  tavern,  then  a  hospitable 
inn  with  pillared  porch.  This  latter  came  to  be  called  'Constitution 
House,'  and  then  for  a  time  was  reduced  to  ignoble  uses  as  a  store- 
house. It  has  recently  been  moved  back  to  near  its  original  site  on 
Main  St.,  and  plans  for  restoration  are  being  carried  out.  While 
the  convention  was  sitting,  news  came  of  General  Burgoyne's  invasion, 
and  the  delegates  wished  to  depart  immediately  to  defend  their  homes, 
but  a  terrific  thunder-storm  broke,  and  while  waiting  for  it  to  pass  the 
constitution  was  hastily  finished.  It  was  modeled  after  that  devised 
by  Franklin  for  Pennsylvania,  but  has  the  distinction  of  being  the 
first  to  make  slavery  unconstitutional. 

During  the  session  of  the  first  State  convention,  in  1778,  twenty-six 
New  Hampshire  towns,  acting  under  the  leadership  of  the  "Dartmouth 
College  Party,"  seceded  from  New  Hampshire  and  appealed  for  union 


344  WINDSOR— WHITE  RIVER  JUNCTION 

with  Vermont.  Vermont  was  then,  and  continued  to  be  until  its  ad- 
mission to  the  Union  in  1791,  an  independent  republic.  It  is  rather 
startling  to  find  this  early  example  of  secession  here  in  the  heart  of 
New  England.  The  New  Hampshire  State  Government  very  nat- 
urally strongly  opposed  it.  In  fact,  the  independent  government  of 
Vermont  was  bitterly  opposed  by  the  New  York  and  the  New  Hamp- 
shire governments,  both  of  which  claimed  jurisdiction.  Ethan  Allen 
was  something  of  a  politician,  though  better  known  in  the  conventional 
role  of  hero  and  patriot;  he  made  a  trip  to  the  Continental  Congress 
in  session  at  Philadelphia,  and  there  arranged  that  if  Vermont  would 
dissolve  the  union  with  the  New  Hampshire  towns  the  New  Hamp- 
shire State  Government  would  support  the  new  State  against  the  op- 
position of  New  York. 

The  first  legislature  which  met  at  Windsor  after  Vermont's  ad- 
mission to  the  Union,  in  1791,  initiated  canal  enterprise  in  New  England 
by  issuing  a  charter  to  "the  company  for  rendering  the  Connecticut 
river  navigable  up  to  Bellows  Falls."  Again  in  1830  a  convention 
was  held  here  to  promote  canal  building  and  river  navigation. 

Note.  From  Windsor  northward  the  New  Hampshire  side 
of  the  Connecticut  through  Cornish  and  Hanover  is  much  the 
more  interesting,  although  the  main-traveled  road  continues 
on  the  west  bank.  There  is  little  of  especial  interest  on  the 
Vermont  side  of  the  river  between  Windsor  and  White  River 
Junction,  although  the  scenery  is  attractive.  To  reach  Cor- 
nish, cross  the  long  covered  bridge  over  the  river  (toll  15  cts.)- 

The  route  leads  along  the  hillsides  above  the  river,  overlook- 
ing the  Cornish  and  Plainfield  hills  in  New  Hampshire. 
Avoiding  the  left  forks  half  a  mile  beyond  the  Hartford  town 
line  (31.5)  the  route  passes  through  the  eastern  end  of 

33.0  HARTLAND.  Alt  500  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1316.  Windsor  Co. 
Settled  1763.  Mfg.  doors,  sashes,  and  blinds. 

Hartland  is  a  little  agricultural  village  lying  in  the  midst  of 
the  hills  near  the  Connecticut.  It  boasts  of  saw  mills  and  a 
blind  factory,  but  the  principal  occupation  is  farming. 

The  first  settlement  was  made  here  in  1763  and  the  town  was  organ- 
ized in  1767.  It  was  chartered  as  Hertford,  but  the  name  was  changed 
to  Hartland  in  1782.  The  first  settler  was  Timothy  Lull,  who  brought 
his  family  up  the  Connecticut  from  Dummerston  in  a  log  canoe. 
Arriving  at  the  mouth  of  a  large  brook  he  broke  a  bottle  of  liquor  and 
christened  the  stream  Lull's  Brook,  by  which  name  it  has  since  been 
known.  Most  of  the  early  settlers  were  from  Massachusetts  and 
Connecticut.  Daniel  Willard,  president  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.R., 
was  born  here. 

Continuing  up  the  Connecticut  Turnpike,  as  the  road  is 
called  hereabout,  the  route  forks  left  across  R.R.  at  North 
Hartland  (37.5).  Here  it  crosses  the  Ottaquechee  river,  which 
rushes  down  its  deep  gorge  to  the  left  from  Woodstock.  The 
only  industry  in  this  hamlet  is  satinet-weaving. 

The  road  now  runs  across  country  at  the  base  of  a  terrace, 
the  ancient  shore  of  the  Connecticut.  At  the  crossroads  (41.5) 
the  route  turns  right  on  the  King's  Highway. 


R.  to  §  5.     E.  BK.  CHARLESTOWN  TO  WEST  LEBANON          345 

Note.  Straight  ahead  is  a  short  cut,  across  White  River  and 
through  the  village  of  Hartford,  rejoining  the  main  route  from 
White  River  Junction  on  Christian  St.  (45.0). 

The  main  road  follows  the  King's  Highway  past  the  State 
Fair  Ground  and  down  hill  to 

43.0  WHITE  RIVER  JUNCTION.  Alt  367  ft.  Pop  (Hartford  twp) 
4179.  Windsor  Co.  Settled  1764.  Mfg.  harnesses  and 
satinet. 

White  River  Junction,  an  important  railway  junction  and 
the  principal  center  of  the  town  of  Hartford,  is  a  prettily 
situated  village  at  the  confluence  of  the  White  river  and  the 
Connecticut.  The  White  river,  sixty-five  miles  in  length,  is 
the  largest  stream  in  Vermont  east  of  the  Green  Mountains. 
This  is  a  busy  little  place  with  an  electric  light  plant,  monu- 
ment works,  printing  offices,  etc.  Just  above  the  village  are 
the  State  Fair  Grounds,  where  each  September  is  held  New 
England's  greatest  agricultural  fair,  notable  for  its  display  of 
live  stock, — especially  Morgan  horses,  Jerseys,  and  Holsteins. 

The  Boston  and  Maine  Industrial  Department  has  here 
planted,  at  the  request  of  the  Vermont  State  Fair  Association, 
an  acre  of  apples,  which  it  maintains  in  the  highest  degree  of 
cultivation  as  an  object  lesson  to  the  farmers  of  the  region  in 
the  proper  care  of  an  orchard  and  the  most  improved  methods 
of  harvesting  and  marketing.  The  White  River  R.R.  Co. 
encourages  potato  cultivation  along  its  route  by  offering  prizes 
for  the  best  results. 

Route  44  to  Woodstock  and  Rutland,  and  Route  45  to 
Montpelier  via  the  Williamstown  Gulf,  start  from  this  point. 
The  West  Bank  Route  continues  from  here  to  Colebrook  (p  347). 

R.  10  §  5.  East  Bank:  Charlestown  to  West  Lebanon.  34.0  tn. 
The  route  takes  the  right  fork  in  the  village  and  then  bears 
left  between  Hubbard  Hill  and  the  Connecticut.  About  three 
miles  north,  near  the  village  of  North  Charlestown,  whose  white 
church  steeple  peeps  above  the  trees,  the  road  forks  at  the 
stone  watering  trough. 

Note.  The  left  road  straight  ahead,  shorter,  beautiful  and  practi- 
cable, but  steep  and  narrow  in  places,  leads  to  the  Ascutneyville  bridge 
across  the  Connecticut  to  the  West  Bank  Route  (p  342).  It  follows 
the  valley,  with  charming  views  of  Ascutney  Mountain,  and  then  as 
the  river  swings  to  the  west  around  Barber  Mountain,  the  road  con- 
tinues to  the  east  of  Barber  Mountain  into  the  Sugar  river  valley, 
along  the  old  King's  Highway,  where  the  first  settlers  of  Claremont 
built  their  log  huts  on  the  south  side  of  Sugar  River. 

The  righthand  road  is  the  main-traveled  highway  to  Claremont. 
At  the  next  fork,  keep  right  and  cross  R.R.  This  broad  valley  was 
in  former  geologic  times  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  river. 


346  CLAREMONT— CORNISH 

11.0  CLAREMONT.  Alt  580  ft.  Pop  (twp)  7529.  Sullivan  Co. 
Settled  1762.  Mfg.  mining  machinery,  diamond  drills, 
bedspreads,  paper,  and  shoes. 

This  is  a  manufacturing  town  in  the  midst  of  beautiful  hills. 
Hemming  in  the  town  are  Flat  Rock,  Twist  Back,  and  Bible 
Hill,  the  latter  with  a  small  summer  colony, — while  Green 
Mountain  to  the  east  is  the  dominating  feature  of  the  land- 
scape. The  growth  and  prosperity  of  the  town  in  the  last  half 
century  have  been  intimately  connected  with  the  development 
of  industries  dependent  upon  the  waterpower  of  the  Sugar 
river,  which  falls  some  200  feet  within  the  town  limits.  This 
power  is  supplemented  by  the  hydro-electric  power  of  the  Clare- 
mont  Power  Company,  transmitted  from  its  large  plant  near 
Cavendish,  Vt. 

The  Sullivan  Machinery  Company  manufactures  mining 
machinery,  more  particularly  coal  cutters,  rock  drills,  air  com- 
pressors, and  diamond  drills.  It  employs  over  1000  hands  and 
its  products  are  sent  all  over  the  world.  The  Monadnock 
Mills  specialize  in  cotton  bedspreads. 

The  central  square  is  a  vacant,  unlovely  area.  Broad  Street, 
quite  correctly  named,  terminates  in  a  small  triangular  com- 
mon, on  which  are  the  Town  Hall  and  Library.  The  High 
School  was  endowed  by  Paran  Stevens,  who  made  a  fortune 
in  the  hotel  business  two  generations  ago. 

Along  about  1752  an  adventurous  trapper  named  Eastman  from 
Killingworth,  Conn.,  spent  a  winter  along  the  Sugar  river  and  its 
tributaries,  where  he  found  beaver  and  otter  in  great  abundance. 
So  rich  was  his  harvest  that  he  returned  the  following  year  and  was 
never  again  seen,  but  years  after  his  supposed  skeleton  was  found  near 
Mink  Brook.  He  had  probably  been  killed  by  Indians  who  were 
jealous  of  his  success. 

The  first  settlement  was  made  in  1762  along  the  south  bank  of 
Sugar  River,  near  the  Connecticut.  The  town  was  granted  by  Gover- 
nor Benning  Wentworth  in  1764  to  seventy  proprietors,  only  two  of 
whom  became  resident.  It  was  named  for  Lord  dive's  estate  in 
England,  owing  to  Wentworth's  fondness  for  complimenting  his  noble 
friends.  Up  to  1769  the  early  settlers  returned  each  winter  to  the 
southern  towns. 

The  first  citizens  of  the  town  were  about  equally  divided  between 
the  Episcopal  and  Orthodox  faith.  The  Episcopal  Church,  organized 
here  in  1771,  was  the  earliest  in  this  region.  In  the  Revolutionary 
days  the  Churchmen  were  generally  loyal  to  the  King  and  paid  a  heavy 
penalty  for  their  Toryism.  A  letter  of  Colonel  John  Peters,  a  brother 
of  the  first  Episcopal  rector  at  Claremont,  gives  a  little  idea  of  the 
unkindly  way  in  which  they  were  treated.  "They  seized  me — and 
all  the  Church  people  for  200  miles  up  the  river,  and  confined  us  in 
close  gaols,  after  beating  and  drawing  us  through  water  and  mud. 
Here  we  lay  sometime  and  were  to  continue  in  prison  until  we  abjured 
the  king.  Many  died. . . .  We  were  removed  from  the  gaol  and  confined 
in  private  houses  at  our  own  expense. . . .  Rev.  Mr.  Cossitt  and  Mr. 
Cole  had  more  insults  than  any  of  the  loyalists,  because  they  had 
been  servants  of  the  Society,  which,  under  pretense  (as  the  rebels  say) 
of  propagating  religion  had  propagated  loyalty." 


R.  10  §  5.     E.  BK.    CHARLESTOWN  TO  WEST  LEBANON         347 

A  band  of  stalwart  young  "Sons  of  Liberty"  was  formed  with  the 
avowed  purpose  of  exterminating  all  Tories, — to  capture  them  if' 
possible,  otherwise  to  shoot  them.  Between  the  Rich  farm  and  Red 
Water  Brook  is  the  'Tory  Hole,'  a  secluded  hollow  surrounded  by 
swamps  and  dense  thickets  in  which  in  Revolutionary  days  the  poor 
hunted  Tories  were  wont  to  seek  refuge.  The  Hole  was  not  dis- 
covered by  the  patriots  until  1780,  when  two  Tories  who  had  sought 
refuge  there  were  chased  across  the  river  and  to  the  summit  of  As- 
cutney  Mountain,  where  they  were  captured  and  sent  to  Boston. 

From  the  northeast  corner  of  the  square  the  route  follows 
the  trolley,  past  mills  and  machine  shops,  down  a  badly  kept 
street  which  the  factories  have  narrowed  by  encroachments. 
Crossing  the  Sugar  river,  the  route  follows  the  valley,  crossing 
Red  Water  Brook  to  (14.0)  West  Claremont,  locally  known 
as  the  'west  part.'  Here  the  waterpower  is  utilized  by  mills 
which  specialize  in  tissue  papers,  importing  the  wood  pulp 
from  Canada.  The  paper  for  Butterick's  patterns  is  made 
here.  The  road  passes  under  the  R.R.  bridge.  This  was 
built  by  the  father  of  Whistler,  the  artist,  his  last  job  before 
going  to  Russia,  and  was  considered  a  difficult  engineering 
feat  in  those  days.  The  span  is  no  feet  above  the  river.  At 
Cupola  Farm  the  road  forks. 

The  righthand  road  along  the  east  bank  of  the  river  to 
Cornish  is  sandy  in  spots,  but  practicable.  The  best  road  and 
pleasanter  route  is  on  the  Vermont  side.  As  we  cross  the  iron 
bridge  of  three  spans  there  is  an  extensive  view  up  and  down 
the  river.  To  the  south  the  large  white  house  in  the  meadow 
on  the  slope  above  is  Upland  Court,  the  summer  residence 
of  George  B.  Upham,  a  Boston  attorney.  It  is  on  his  ances- 
tral heath,  as  are  two  other  Upham  residences.  The  Uphams 
have  been  prominent  hereabout  for  a  century  and  a  half. 

19.0     CORNISH.     Alt  380  ft.    Pop  (twp)  1005.     Sullivan  Co. 

The  Cornish  colony  had  made  this  one  of  America's 
famous  summer  localities  long  before  it  became  the  'Summer 
Capital'  during  the  administration  of  President  Wilson.  It 
is  sometimes  referred  to  as  'Little  New  York'  because  of  its 
Metropolitan  summer  residents.  On  the  hills  of  Cornish  and 
Plainfield,  the  next  town  north,  along  the  tortuous  valley  of 
Blow-me-down  Brook,  are  the  residences  of  those  who  make 
up  the  colony,  thirty  or  so  in  number,  among  whom  are  names 
illustrious  in  art  and  literature.  The  great  desideratum  here 
is  to  have  the  beautiful  cone  of  Ascutney  in  the  view  with  a  bit 
of  the  river  in  the  foreground. 

There  is  nothing  of  splurge,  not  even  so  much  of  fashion,  as 
goes  to  make  up  the  Dublin  colony,  perhaps  not  so  much  of 
intellect  as  went  to  make  up  the  Chocorua  colony  of  former 
days;  but  taste  and  intelligence  of  the  highest  order  have 


34«  CORNISH 

gone  into  the  planning  of  the  estates.  They  vary  from  the 
simplest  old  farmhouse,  slightly  made  over,  to  establishments 
costing  hundreds  of  thousands,  in  the  style  of  Italian  villas  or 
stately  English  country  seats.  C.  C.  Beaman  was  first  at- 
tracted hither  by  his  father-in-law  and  partner,  Wm.  Maxwell 
Evarts,  and  bought  up  some  5000  acres.  He  in  turn  induced 
his  friend  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens,  the  greatest  sculptor  of 
our  time,  to  settle  here.  Charles  A.  Platt,  the  architect,  was 
also  an  early  comer,  and  his  taste  in  architecture  and  landscape 
design  is  seen  in  many  of  the  Cornish  places. 

Here,  during  the  last  two  decades,  in  winter  or  summer  or  both, 
have  resorted  the  sculptors  Augustus  and  Louis  Saint-Gaudens, 
Herbert  Adams,  James  Fraser,  Henry  Hering,  Robert  Paine,  Frances 
Grimes,  Daniel  French;  the  painters  Stephen  and  Maxfield  Parrish, 
Kenyon  Cox,  Henry  B.  Fuller,  Lucia  Fairchild  Fuller,  Thomas  Dew- 
ing, John  W.  Alexander,  George  de  Forest  Brush,  H.  O.  Walker, 
Henry  Prellwitz,  John  Eliot,  William  Hyde;  the  writers  Winston 
Churchill,  Percy  MacKaye,  Louis  Evan  Shipman,  Witter  Bynner, 
William  Vaughn  Moody,  Robert  Herrick,  Norman  Hapgood,  Herbert 
Croly,  Langdon  Mitchell;  the  musicians  Arthur  Whiting,  Otto 
Roth,  Mme.  Louise  Homer;  and  many  other  artists. 

Cornish  has  played  its  part  in  history.  During  the  period  of  ferment 
in  1778-79,  when  twenty-six  New  Hampshire  towns  in  the  Connecticut 
valley  seceded  from  the  New  Hampshire  government,  Cornish  was 
the  place  of  meeting  of  the  committees  and  conventions.  Here  in 
1779  Colonel  Chase  assembled  the  militia  to  withstand  the  armed 
forces  of  New  Hampshire. 

Salmon  P.  Chase,  Chief  Justice  of  the  U.S.  Supreme  Court,  was  born 
in  a  house  still  standing  about  one  mile  south  of  the  old  Cornish  church, 
which  in  turn  is  about  half  a  mile  south  of  the  Windsor  Bridge. 

Close  to  the  old  covered  bridge  from  Windsor  (p  342)  is 
the  Hillside  Creamery,  a  model  cooperative  farmers'  enter- 
prise. From  the  bridge  the  road  northward  was  reconstructed 
by  special  enactment  of  the  New  Hampshire  legislature  and  re- 
named, in  honor  of  the  President,  Wilson  Road.  On  the  right 
is  the  Tea  Tray,  a  little  white  house  with  romantic  green 
blinds  and  a  swinging  sign,  obviously  painted  by  Maxfield 
Parrish.  The  second  house  on  the  left  is  the  Turnpike  Inn, 
owned,  like  most  property  around  here,  by  the  B*eaman  estate. 

Note.  To  the  right  a  steep-incline  road  climbing  the  wooded 
bluff  leads  to  the  estate  of  Miss  Augusta  Slade.  Perched 
hundreds  of  feet  above  and  overlooking  the  valley,  it  is  said 
to  have  involved  an  investment  of  $300,000.  The  house, 
designed  by  Platt,  is  filled  with  Italian  furniture  and  antiqui- 
ties. The  rose  garden  with  old  Italian  marbles  has  inspired  one 
of  Mildred  Howells'  most  beautiful  short  poems. 

Note.  The  next  road  climbing  the  hill  to  the  eastward 
through  the  pines  and  birches  leads  to  the  homes  of  many  of 
the  colony.  First  on  the  left,  behind  a  high  pine  hedge,  is  the 
place  of  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens,  known  as  Aspet,  named 


R.  10  §  5.     E.  BK.     CHARLESTOWN  TO  WEST  LEBANON        349 

from  the  little  town  in  France  where  his  forefathers  lived.  It 
was  back  in  the  early  '8o's  that  Saint-Gaudens  bought  this 
place  for  a  song  from  Mr.  Beaman.  The  stately  old  brick 
tavern,  dating  from  about  1800,  which  in  early  days  had  been 
known  as  'Huggins'  Folly,'  was  harmoniously  remodeled  by 
the  gifted  architect  George  Babb.  Since  the  death  of  Saint- 
Gaudens  in  1907,  Mrs.  Saint-Gaudens  has  transformed  the 
two  studios  into  a  permanent  museum  of  the  great  sculptor's 
works,  which  gives  a  broad  and  faithful  suggestion  of  his 
accomplishment.  Here  in  bronze  and  plaster  she  has  had 
reproduced  the  greatest  of  his  things,  the  originals  of  which 
are  scattered  throughout  Europe  and  America.  Visitors  are 
welcome  in  the  summer  time. 

The  Studio  of  the  Pergola,  originally  the  stable  of  the  old 
hostelry,  was  the  sculptor's  own  work  room  and  remains 
much  as  he  left  it.  On  the  outer  wall  facing  the  Pergola  is 
a  portion  of  the  Panathenaic  frieze,  full  size,  on  which  Saint- 
Gaudens  and  his  painter  friends  delighted  to  experimentally 
try  out  their  theories  as  to  its  original  coloring.  The  Studio 
of  the  Caryatids  was  for  the  use  of  his  assistants,  and  now 
contains  copies  in  bronze  or  plaster  of  his  larger  sculptures, 
some  scale  models,  and  others  full  size. 

Under  great  whispering  pines  on  the  brink  of  a  deep  glen, 
and  looking  out  upon  Ascutney  which  he  loved  so  well,  is 
'The  Temple,'  a  memorial  enclosing  the  funeral  urn  erected 
by  Mrs.  Saint-Gaudens  to  her  husband.  It  stands  on  the  spot 
where  was  celebrated  in  1905  the  now  famous  Masque,  imagined 
and  executed  by  his  Cornish  neighbors,  and  offered  to  Augusta 
and  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens  on  the  twentieth  anniversary  of 
their  coming  to  Cornish. 

For  this  Masque,  written  by  Louis  Evan  Shipman,  a  prologue,  by 
Percy  MacKaye,  was  recited  by  Miss  Frances  Grimes,  the  sculptress, 
who,  clad  in  the  rainbow  tints  of  Iris,  emerged  from  the  pines  and  spoke 
these  lines: 

"Fresh  from  the  courts  of  dewy-colored  eve 
Jove  summons  me  before  you. 

.     .     .     Whether  I  pause 

Midway  my  quivering  arc,  that  spans  the  roar 
And  tumbling  prisms  of  sheer  Niagara, 
Or  by  the  ferny  banks  of  Blow-me-down 
Trellis  my  hair  with  braided  fleur-de-lis, 

Still  I  am  Iris 

But  whence,  emerging  from  the  curtained  wood 
Of  Aspet,  on  this  longest  summer  eve, 
While  yet  the  veerie  rings  his  vesper  chimes, 
I  have  made  journey  thither,  hearken!" 

Under  a  Renaissance  canopy  of  warm-toned  Vermont  marble, 
designed  by  his  old  friend  Mr.  Kendall,  of  McKim,  Mead  & 
White,  is  a  Roman  sacrificial  altar,  a  reproduction  of  the  one 


350  CORNISH 

modeled  by  his  studio  assistant,  Henry  Hering,  for  the  cere- 
monial finale  of  the  above-mentioned  "Masque  of  Ours,"  the 
"Masque  of  the  Golden  Bowl." 

Just  above,  on  the  left  is  Barberry  House,  the  home  of 
Homer  Saint-Gaudens,  editor  of  his  father's  "Reminiscences," 
and  stage  director  for  Maude  Adams.  Here  his  friend  Witter 
Bynner,  the  poet,  wrote  "The  New  World"  and  other  poems. 
Continuing  north,  where  the  road  turns  to  the  right,  a  private 
way  leads  to  the  house  of  Herbert  Croly,  editor  of  "The  New 
Republic,"  and  author  of  "The  Promise  of  American  Life." 
Further  on,  to  the  east,  is  the  house  of  Mrs.  Louis  Saint- 
Gaudens,  no  mean  sculptor  herself.  The  house,  once  an  old 
Shaker  meeting  house,  removed  from  Lebanon,  N.H.,  looks 
straight  down  the  road  from  an  elevation.  A  quarter  mile 
to  the  south  is  the  house  of  Dr.  Albert  P.  Fitch,  President 
of  the  Andover  Theological  School,  Cambridge,  and  author  of 
"The  Hungry  Boy."  A  tortuous  climb  of  some  hundreds  of 
feet  brings  one  to  the  residence  of  Miss  Elizabeth  Slade. 

Continuing  on  the  Wilson  Road,  just  beyond  the  old  stone 
bridge  to  the  left  is  the  modest  home  of  Mrs.  C.  C.  Beaman, 
who  owns  most  of  the  land  in  this  vicinity.  Here  on  the 
right  is  Blow-me-down  Mill,  an  old  grist  mill  which  still 
performs  its  useful  functions,  named  from  the  brook  which 
turns  its  wheel.  The  original  name  was  Blomidon  and  Mr. 
Beaman  gave  this  name  to  his  estate,  but  later  the  native 
pronunciation  of  Blow-me-down  was  adopted  and  the  Beaman 
place  is  now  called  Blow-me-down  Farm.  The  road  skirts 
the  mill  pond  with  sharp  curves,  and  forks  just  beyond  the  old 
Pla infield  burying  ground. 

Note.  The  road  to  the  right  leads  to  Plainfield  Plain  past 
the  estates  and  the  homes  of  many  of  the  Cornish-Plainfield 
colony.  The  first  on  the  right  is  that  of  William  Hyde,  the 
painter,  formerly  the  home  of  Thomas  Dewing,  also  a  painter. 
The  next  on  the  right  leads  to  the  home  of  George  Rublee, 
instigator  and  member  of  the  U.S.  Trade  Commission.  The 
next  on  the  left  is  the  home  of  Charles  A.  Platt,  with  beautiful 
Italian  gardens  just  glimpsed  from  the  road.  Beyond  the  Platt 
estate  on  the  left  are  the  places  of  Henry  O.  Walker,  the  painter, 
wellknown  for  his  mural  decorations  in  the  Congressional 
Library;  and  the  residence  of  Admiral  Folger.  On  the  right, 
just  opposite  Mr.  Platt's  gateway,  a  private  entrance  between 
stone  pillars  leads  to  High  Court,  commanding  a  most  roman- 
tic view  of  Ascutney  and  the  river  gorge.  Built  twenty-five 
years  ago  and  formerly  known  as  the  '  Lazarus  place,'  it  was  for 
some  years  occupied  by  Norman  Hapgood,  and  is  now  owned 
by  Conger  A.  Goodyear  of  Buffalo. 


R.  10  §  5.     E.  BK.  CHARLESTOWN  TO  WEST  LEBANON          351 

On  the  left,  just  beyond  Admiral  Folger's,  and  part  of  his 
estate,  is  the  little  Snuff  Box,  for  a  while  the  leased  home  of 
Percy  MacKaye,  and  later  of  Langdon  Mitchell,  dramatist. 
Just  beyond,  at  what  is  known  as  the  Four  Corners,  or  Wil- 
der's  Corner,  the  turn  to  the  left  leads  to  the  homes  of  Kenyon 
Cox  and  Winston  Churchill,  and  to  the  right,  uphill,  to  the 
places  of  Stephen  Parrish,  Albion  Lang,  and  Percy  MacKaye. 

From  the  fork  by  the  graveyard  the  Wilson  Road,  straight 
on,  passes  first  on  the  right  a  house  which  bears  on  its  portal 
the  date  1794.  This  was  originally  the  old  Chase  homestead, 
and  now  belongs  to  William  A.  Beaman,  grandson  of  William 
M.  Evarts,  and  said  to  be  his  living  image.  He  raises  pigs 
and  names  them  after  fellow  members  of  the  last  two  legisla- 
tures whom  he  didn't  admire. 

The  road  from  here  on,  which  once  ran  sociably  past  the  front 
steps  of  the  old  farmhouses,  has  been  altered  from  its  ancient 
course  out  of  deference  to  the  more  retiring  nature  of  the 
summer  colonists.  An  avenue  of  pine  trees  planted  about 
twenty  years  ago  marks  the  innovation.  To  the  left  is  the 
home  of  the  Misses  Arnold  of  New  York,  and  next  beyond,  of 
Dr.  Arthur  H.  Nichols  of  Boston,  whose  daughter,  Rose 
Standish  Nichols,  has  won  reputation  as  a  landscape  gardener 
and  as  the  author  of  a  book  on  gardens. 

Half  a  mile  beyond,  two  square  stone  gate  pillars  mark  the 
entrance  to  the  erstwhile  'Summer  White  House.'  President 
Wilson  during  the  first  three  years  of  his  administration 
leased  the  residence  of  Winston  Churchill,  the  novelist.  No 
view  of  the  house  can  be  obtained  from  this  road,  but  by 
turning  left  a  mile  south  of  this  point  and  following  the  river 
road  one  may  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  house. 

It  was  in  1898  that  Winston  Churchill  purchased  a  farm  in  Cornish 
and  here  built  Harlakenden  House,  named  for  his  wife,  Mabel  Har- 
lakenden  Hall  of  St.  Louis.  It  is  a  generous  brick  mansion  designed 
by  Platt  in  the  southern  Colonial  style  and  built  around  three  sides 
of  a  court.  From  the  study  windows  through  the  pine  branches  is 
seen  the  Connecticut  flowing  placidly  below.  To  the  west  rise  the 
swelling  green  slopes  of  the  Vermont  hills,  and  southward,  Ascutney 
looms  up  grandly.  The  changing  moods  and  blue  shadows  of  the 
mountain  permeate  Mr.  Churchill's  writings,  and  he  has  found  literary 
values  in  its  dominating  tone, — "Blue-purple,  the  color  of  the  bloom 
on  a  Concord  grape."  In  1903  and  1905,  in  the  unregenerate  days  of 
corporation  control,  Mr.  Churchill  represented  Cornish  in  the  State 
legislature,  and  the  political  insight  he  gained  is  reflected  in  "Conis- 
ton,"  published  in  1906.  It  was  "Coniston"  that  brought  him  the 
Progressive  nomination  for  Governor  as  candidate  of  the  Lincoln  Club. 

The  theme  of  "Coniston"  is  as  broad  as_  American  life  of  the  middle 
nineteenth  century,  but  the  scenes  are  laid  in  the  region  round  about 
here.  "Coniston"  is  said  to  be  Croydon,  and  the  whole  locale  still 
appears  in  the  Green,  the  store  with  its  horse  block,  and  the  tannery 
shed.  "Tumble-down  Brook"  is  probably  Blow-me-down,  which 
flows  not  into  "  Coniston  Water,"  but  into  the  Connecticut;  and 


352  CORNISH 

"Coniston  Water"  is  perhaps  the  Sugar  river,  along  which  "Mr. 
Worthington"  wandered  looking  for  suitable  waterpower.  "Bramp- 
ton"  represents  Newport,  and  one  of  the  mills  there  today,  in  honor 
of  the  book,  is  called  "Brampton  Mills."  "Clovelly"  is  Cornish, 
and  "Harwich"  is  Claremont.  The  characters,  too,  are  supposed  to 
be  drawn  from  life.  "Jethro  Bass"  is  identified  with  the  old  State 
boss,  Ruel  Durkee.  From  his  remote  hamlet  of  Croydon,  his  sway 
extended  over  the  whole  State.  "Bije  Bixby,"  his  chief  lieutenant, 
is  supposed  to  be  'Vene'  Bryant  (christened  S.  W.  Bryant), 
who  may  still  be  seen  contentedly  shelling  beans  any  sunny  day  on 
the  porch  of  his  little  brick  wool-house  at  Cornish  Flat. 

A  mile  beyond,  where  the  Plainfield  road  turns  to  the  right, 
Winston  Churchill  has  made  himself  a  temporary  habitation 
from  an  oldtime  farmhouse  formerly  the  roadside  tavern. 
To  gain  a  little  dooryard  he  has  diverted  the  old  highway  and 
erected  a  high  wooden  fence  encroaching  upon  the  new  road, 
which  he  hopes  may  eventually  be  made  beautiful  by  vines. 

Note.  The  Plainfield  road  turns  off  at  right  angles  and 
runs  directly  east.  To  the  left  in  a  pasture  upland,  shaded 
by  gigantic  oaks,  with  stone  terraces  in  front,  is  the  home  of 
Maxfield  Parrish,  the  artist. 

To  the  right,  a  branching  road  crosses  Blow-me-down  Brook 
at  the  site  of  a  sawmill,  on  the  right  of  which  are  the  house 
and  studio  of  Kenyon  Cox,  the  painter.  The  same  road  then 
continues  east  past  Wilder's  Corner,  before  mentioned,  up  the 
hill,  passing  on  the  right,  high  up  on  the  hillside,  the  house  and 
studio  of  Stephen  Parrish,  the  etcher  and  landscape  painter, 
father  of  Maxfield  Parrish,  and  thus  continues  northeast  past 
the  entrance  to  the  large  and  well  equipped  estate  of  Albion 
Lang,  beyond  which  it  runs  north  to  the  entrance  to  Hilltop, 
the  home  of  Percy  MacK;  ye,  poet  and  dramatist,  the  red 
roofs  of  which  may  be  seen  nestled  below  the  top  of  the  pasture 
hill.  Here  Mr.  MacKaye  wrote  "Sanctuary"  and  planned  his 
"Masque  of  Saint  Louis,"  which,  produced  in  May,  1914, 
with  7500  citizens  of  St.  Louis  as  performers,  was  witnessed 
by  half  a  million  spectators  in  its  four  performances,  initiating 
a  permanent  movement  for  civic  progress  through  pageantry. 

Continuing  on  the  Plainfield  road,  just  before  reaching  the 
village,  on  the  left,  is  the  Italian  villa  of  the  painter  Henry  B. 
Fuller,  with  a  swimming-pool  in  the  courtyard. 

The  little  village  of  PLAINFIELD  (4.0)  is  rather  flat  and  unin- 
teresting, though  the  hills  about  it  are  beautiful.  An  old 
Colonial  house  with  a  charming  garden  on  the  east  side  of  the 
main  street  is  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Davidge,  now  Mrs.  Taylor, 
a  daughter  of  Bishop  Potter.  North  of  the  village  is  Prospect 
Hill,  on  the  eastern  slope  of  which,  approached  by  a  quiet  lane, 
is  the  residence  of  Herbert  Adams,  one  of  America's  leading 
sculptors.  The  view  from  here  is  particularly  lovely,  framed 


R.  10  §  5-     E-  BK.    CHARLESTOWN  TO  WEST  LEBANON         353 

by  two  huge  maples.  Behind  the  house  there  is  a  formal 
garden,  and  adjoining,  another  beautiful  garden,  owned  by 
William  Howard  Hart,  a  landscape  painter.  A  quarter  of  a 
mile  beyond  this  point,  at  the  very  end  of  the  lane,  is  the  new 
home  where  in  the  future  Ernest  Harold  Baynes  will  entertain 
his  "Wild  Bird  Guests."  In  his  recent  fascinating  book  with 
that  title  Mr.  Baynes  tells  intimately,  with  all  the  charm  of  his 
winning  personality,  the  secrets  of  his  success  with  the  birds. 

Just  beyond  Herbert  Adams'  house,  on  the  left,  is  Brook 
Place,  the  home  of  Louis  Evan  Shipman,  the  dramatist. 
Mrs.  Shipman  is  a  landscape  architect  of  growing  reputation. 

The  road  running  directly  east  from  Plainfield  leads  to 
Meriden.  A  mile  from  the  village  a  steep  grassy  road  climbs 
the  hill  to  the  north  of  the  house,  in  a  natural  setting  on  the 
hilltop,  of  Everett  Shinn,  the  illustrator. 

The  road  continues  on  along  the  valley  of  Blow-me-down 
Brook  to  MERIDEN  (12.0),  a  secluded  little  town  on  a  green 
hilltop  almost  under  the  shadow  of  Croydon  Mountain.  Here 
Kimball  Union  Academy  has  for  a  century  been  turning  out 
worthy  citizens  from  the  grist  the  old  New  England  stock 
brought  to  its  mill.  In  the  last  five  years,  however,  Meriden 
has  become  wellknown  as  the  'Bird  Village.' 

It  was  Ernest  Harold  Baynes  who  put  it  on  the  map.  Baynes  was 
born  in  India  and  came  very  near  being  an  Englishman.  He  is  just 
one  bundle  of  verve  and  enthusiasm,  and  when  he  goes  out  to  protect 
the  birds  just  ordinary  humans  have  got  to  watch  out.  He  settled  down 
in  Meriden  to  study  the  wild  (fenced  in)  animals  in  Corbin  Park,  and 
it  was  not  long  before  he  was  driving  a  team  of  buffalo  in  harness, 
had  a  timber  wolf  as  a  traveling  companion,  and  kept  a  wild  boar 
(a  German  one,  too)  in  the  parlor.  Then  he  turned  his  hand  to  the 
citizens  of  the  village  who  had  lived  on  these  hills  for  two  centuries 
wholly  unobservant  of  birds  except  when  they  went  gunning.  It 
took  him  less  than  a  year  to  tame  them  so  that  he  had  them  tramping 
out  in  hard  winter  weather  to  feed  some  tomtit  in  a  remote  corner  of 
their  pasture.  In  five  years  the  birds  of  Meriden  have  become  so 
pauperized  that  not  one  of  them  would  now  think  of  working  for  a 
living.  They  expect  to  be  bathed  and  fed  by  the  citizens.  Free 
tenements,  with  all  modern  improvements  have  been  provided  for 
them.  Flat  houses  of  four  and  five  stories  seem  to  be  popular.  One 
sees  them  perched  on  top  of  poles  in  every  front  yard  of  the  village. 
In  Meriden  the  birds  even  have  a  thirty-acre  park  of  their  own,  which 
has  a  name  long  enough  to  scare  them  away  if  they  could  read  it.  It 
is  called  'The  Helen  Woodruff  Smith  Bird  Sanctuary.'  In  the  park 
are  most  luxurious  bath  tubs  such  as  not  even  a  sybaritic  millionaire 
would  venture  to  require.  One  of  them,  Baynes  boasts,  in  his  modest 
way,  is  a  monolith  weighing  five  tons,  and  another  of  bronze  was 
especially  sculptured  by  Mrs.  Louis  Saint-Gaudens  in  commemora- 
tion of  the  bird  masque  "Sanctuary,"  first  performed  here  in  1913. 
It  was  written  by  Percy  MacKaye,  and  the  cast  included  Miss  Eleanor 
Wilson  and  Miss  Margaret  Wilson,  Juliet  Barrett  Rublee,  Joseph 
Lindon  Smith,  Witter  Bynner,  and  MacKaye  and  Baynes  themselves. 

East  of  Meriden  is  Croydon  Mountain.     Austin  Corbin,  of 


354  CORNISH— THETFORD 

Long  Island  Railway  fame,  bought  all  the  land  round  about, — 
some  25,000  acres, — and  in  1899  put  a  meshed  and  barbed  wire 
fence  nine  feet  high  around  it,  installed  keepers'  lodges  con- 
nected by  telephone,  and  stocked  the  park  with  American 
bison,  moose,  elk,  Virginia  deer,  and  German  wild  boar  from 
the  Black  Forest.  The  herd  of  buffalo  here  was  at  one  time 
the  largest  in  the  country  and  inspired  Ernest  Harold  Baynes 
to  found  the  American  Bison  Society,  which  during  the  past 
ten  years  has  saved  the  American  buffalo  from  extinction. 
The  Corbin  herd  has  of  late  been  depleted  by  sale  and  gift, 
and  the  need  of  revenue  has  resulted  in  the  cutting  off  of  much 
of  the  timber.  The  park  is  at  present  leased  to  an  association 
of  wealthy  men  who  have  an  ambition  to  be  big  game  hunters, 
and  membership  entitles  them  to  kill  a  specified  number  of 
animals  each  year. 

The  road  from  Plainfield  leads  northward  over  the  hills 
direct  to  the  Lebanon  boundary  line,  but  the  best  road  follows 
the  course  of  the  river,  avoiding  the  hills.  It  crosses  Mascoma 
River  to  West  Lebanon  (21.5).  This  village  lies  directly 
opposite  White  River,  the  longest  affluent  of  the  Connecticut, 
at  the  mouth  of  which  is  White  River  Junction  (p  345). 

From  Cornish  bridge  the  direct  route  leads  up  the  east 
bank  beside  the  Connecticut  through  Plainfield  township  to 
WEST  LEBANON  (34.0;  p  360).  At  White  River  Junction, 
across  the  river,  connections  can  be  made  with  the  West  Bank 
Route  for  St.  Johnsbury  and  Colebrook,  Route  44  for  Wood- 
stock, Rutland,  and  Lake  George,  and  Route  45  for  Mont- 
pelier  via  the  Williamstown  Gulf. 


R.  10  §  6.     West  Bank: 

White  River  Junction  to  Colebrook.          130.0  m. 

This  route  follows  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  closely 
throughout.  Except  for  fifteen  miles  between  Waterford  and 
Lunenburg  it  is  State  Highway,  with  the  township  lines  marked 
by  signs.  The  surface  is  mostly  good  dirt  or  gravel. 

The  old  town  of  Norwich,  the  long  rapids  of  Fifteen  Mile 
Falls,  above  Barnet,  and  the  wilder  country  northward  to  the 
Dixville  Notch  are  the  principal  points  of  interest. 

From  White  River  Junction  the  road  crosses  the  White 
river  and  passes  through  Wilder  (2.0),  a  little  village  in  the 
township  of  Hartford.  Here  the  power  of  the  Connecticut, 
Alcott's  Falls,  is  utilized  by  the  paper  and  pulp  mills  of  the 
International  Paper  Company.  Near  the  village  are  the  old 
masonry  locks  of  the  canal  built  in  1810  round  the  White 


R.  10  §  6.     W.  BK.  WHITE  RIVER  JUNG.  TO  COLEBROOK      355 

River  Falls.  The  road  winds  to  the  left,  up  and  away  from 
the  Connecticut,  and  enters  Christian  St.  (p  345),  and  then 
bears  left  into 

5.0  NORWICH.  Alt  398  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1252.  Windsor  Co.  Settled 
1763.  Mfg.  lumber  products. 

Norwich  is  a  fine  old  town  on  the  Connecticut  opposite 
Hanover,  for  which  it  is  the  railway  center.  There  is  a  pleasant 
tree-shaded  Green,  with  an  old  church  and  some  century-old 
houses.  Just  north  of  the  village  the  Ompompanoosuc  joins 
the  Connecticut.  Bloody  Brook,  which  rises  in  the  north- 
western part  of  the  town  and  flows  into  the  Connecticut,  de- 
rives its  name  from  a  battle  fought  on  the  stream  during 
the  French  and  Indian  War.  In  1830  Captain  Partridge 
established  Norwich  University  here,  which  later  removed  to 
Northfield.  Philip  Hale,  the  music  critic  of  Boston,  is  a 
native  of  Norwich. 

Pompanoosuc  (n.o)  is  a  little  village  in  Norwich  township, 
stretching  along  the  bank  of  the  Connecticut  just  beyond  the 
mouth  of  the  Ompompanoosuc  river.  The  chief  interest  of 
the  community  is  in  agriculture,  but  there  is  a  furniture  factory. 
Formerly  copperas  mined  at  Copperas  Hill,  ten  miles  to  the 
northwest,  was  shipped  from  this  point.  Nearly  400  tons  of 
it  a  year  were  converted  into  vitriol  at  works  near  Boston. 

Crossing  the  Orange  County  line  the  route  enters 

15.5  THETFORD.  Alt  600ft.  Pop  (twp)  1182.  Orange  Co.  Settled 
1764. 

This  old  country  village,  surrounded  by  lofty  wooded  hills, 
is  principally  engaged  in  farming.  There  are  some  old  houses 
here  and  a  meeting  house  erected  in  1785.  Thetford  Center 
lies  a  few  miles  back  from  the  Connecticut,  but  the  village  of 
East  Thetford  is  on  the  bank  of  the  river. 

In  1911  the  isoth  anniversary  of  the  chartering  of  the  town 
was  celebrated  by  a  pageant  which  stimulated  a  new  spirit  of 
enthusiasm  in  this  rural  community.  A  soil  and  a  farm  man- 
agement expert  were  brought  here  to  aid  in  agricultural  develop- 
ment, and  the  women  organized  the  Thetford  Kitchen  for  the 
sale  of  certain  choice  food  products.  Since  then  an  annual 
celebration,  the  "Intercamp  Frolic,"  is  held  each  summer  on 
the  pageant  grounds  by  Camp  Hanoum  and  other  girls'  summer 
camps  in  this  vicinity. 

George  Peabody,  the  famous  philanthropist,  spent  part  of 
his  boyhood  here  at  the  home  of  his  grandfather.  During  the 
later  years  of  his  life  he  gave  a  library  to  the  village  school  at 
Thetford,  now  in  the  part  of  the  village  called  Post  Mills. 
Dean  C.  Worcester,  a  member  of  the  Philippine  commission, 
was  born  here. 


356  FAIRLEE— WELLS  RIVER 

23.5     FAIRLEE.   Alt  436ft.   Pop  (twp)  438.    Orange  Co.   Settled  1766. 

Fairlee  is  a  pleasant  country  village  a  mile  from  the  river 
in  the  midst  of  very  attractive  scenery.  A  part  of  the  village 
is  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  great  ledge,  sometimes  called  the 
Palisades,  which  backs  its  'Street'  at  the  upper  end. 

Lake  Morey,  a  lovely  little  sheet  of  water,  rich  in  Indian 
lore,  is  in  the  hills  a  mile  from  the  Connecticut.  It  is  the 
chief  scenic  attraction  of  the  region  and  the  center  of  a  summer 
colony  and  the  site  of  Wynona,  Hokomoko,  Aloha,  and  other 
wellknown  summer  camps  for  girls.  The  lakelet  is  about 
three  miles  long.  A  drive  of  about  seven  miles  encircles  it,  and 
a  little  steamboat  plies  up  and  down.  Eagle  Cliff  rises  steeply 
700  feet  above  its  waters.  At  Glen  Falls  the  water  comes 
tumbling  down  a  gorge  over  a  huge  moss-covered  boulder, 
and  has  worn  a  horseshoe-shaped  depression  in  the  rocks.  A 
shady  path  from  this  waterfall  leads  to  the  summit  of  Echo 
Mountain,  which  commands  a  good  view. 

Lake  Morey  bears  the  name  of  Captain  Samuel  Morey,  who  as 
early  as  1790  began  to  consider  navigation  by  steam. 

Captain  Morey  made  his  first  experimental  trip  with  his  steamboat 
on  the  Connecticut  river  on  Sunday,  during  the  hours  when  the 
people  were  at  church,  so  that  no  one  should  see  him  in  case  of  failure. 
On  that  memorable  Sabbath  in  1790  or  thereabout  this  rude  craft 
steamed  up  the  river  between  Fairlee  and  Orford,  and  on  the  following 
day  the  inventor  announced  his  success.  The  news  must  have  reached 
Fulton,  for  soon  after  he  consulted  with  Morey  and  ere  long  a  steam- 
boat was  launched  on  the  Hudson.  About  1820  Morey  launched  an- 
other boat  on  Lake  Fairlee.  The  "Aunt  Sally,"  as  this  was  known, 
had  a  short  existence,  as  it  was  sunk  in  1821, — it  is  claimed,  by  enemies 
of  Captain  Morey  in  order  that  they  might  destroy  evidence  of  a  suc- 
cessful steamboat  earlier  than  Fulton's. 

30.0  BRADFORD.  Alt  400  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1372.  Settled  1765. 
Mfg.  buckets. 

Bradford  is  a  prosperous  farming  village  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Wait  and  Connecticut  rivers.  In  the  village  is  the 
birthplace  of  Admiral  Charles  E.  Clark,  one  of  the  eminent 
American  officers  in  the  Spanish-American  War,  whose  exploit 
in  bringing  the  battleship  "Oregon"  around  Cape  Horn  is 
familiar  to  every  schoolboy. 

The  attractive  hill  country  back  from  the  rivers  is  a  good 
district  for  excursions.  In  the  northwest  part  of  the  town  is 
Wright's  Mountain  (2000  ft),  which  takes  its  name  from  one 
Wright  who  claimed  to  be  a  prophet  and  had  a  hermitage  in  a 
dismal  cavern  on  the  southern  slope,  now  called  the  Devil's 
Den.  Wait  River  is  a  beautiful  stream,  and  the  shaded 
drives  along  its  banks  are  exceedingly  picturesque.  Another 
attraction  is  Roaring  Brook,  which  dashes  down  over  rocky 
ledges.  The  numerous  other  brooks  about  this  region  afford 
good  trout-fishing. 


R.  10  §  6.     W.  BK.  WHITE  RIVER  JUNC.  TO  COLEBROOK      357 

After  leaving  Bradford  our  route  lies  through  one  of  the 
loveliest  portions  of  the  Upper  Connecticut  Valley.  We  con- 
tinue over  the  rich  alluvial  meadows,  with  the  range  of  moun- 
tains rising  in  terrace-like  formation  parallel  with  the  river. 
Some  of  the  most  fertile  farms  in  New  England  are  situated 
along  this  stretch  of  the  valley. 

The  little  village  of  South  Newbury  (34.5),  with  its  fine 
farming  lands  and  background  of  mountains,  is  a  part  of  the 
town  of  Newbury. 

37.5  NEWBURY.  Alt  450  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2035.  Orange  Co.  Settled 
1761.  Mfg.  cedar  ware  and  dairy  products. 

Newbury  is  a  beautiful  old  village  standing  on  the  terraces 
above  the  rich  intervale  of  Ox  Bow,  the  great  bend  in  the  river 
that  almost  cuts  off  this  fertile  meadow-land.  There  are  some 
spacious,  century-old  homesteads  on  its  main  street,  and  the 
present  inn  is  a  pre-Revolutionary  tavern  remodeled  and  en- 
larged. Mt.  Pulaski  and  other  peaks  here  form  a  wooded 
background.  To  the  east,  across  the  river,  is  the  old  New 
Hampshire  town  of  Haverhill,  and  beyond  are  the  Pemige- 
wasset  and  Franconia  Mountains. 

The  fertile  meadows  here  were  the  home  of  a  large  tribe  of  Indians 
before  the  white  settlers  came,  but  the  red  men  abandoned  the  place 
in  terror  after  LovewelPs  battle  at  Pequawket  (see  Fryeburg,  R.  50). 

Newbury,  one  of  the  oldest  of  Vermont  towns,  was  founded  about 
1761  by  General  Jacob  Bayley  of  Newbury,  Mass.,  who  was  later 
prominent  in  the  Revolutionary  War  and  a  friend  of  Washington.  A 
detachment  of  British  soldiers  came  here  during  the  war  to  take 
Bayley,  it  is  said,  but  a  friend  went  over  to  the  field  where  he  was 
plowing  and  dropped  a  note  in  the  furrow,  saying,  "The  Philistines 
be  upon  thee,  Samson!"  On  returning  down  the  long  furrow  Bayley 
saw  the  note  and  made  good  his  escape.  Newbury  was  garrisoned 
later  in  the  Revolution,  and  during  the  early  history  of  Vermont, 
when  river  transportation  was  in  vogue,  was  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant towns  in  the  State. 

43.0  WELLS  RIVER.  Alt  500  ft.  Pop  608.  Orange  Co.  Mfg. 
paper,  soaps,  and  lumber. 

The  incorporated  village  of  Wells  River,  the  largest  of  those 
comprising  the  town  of  Newbury,  lies  at  the  confluence  of  the 
river  of  that  name  with  the  Connecticut.  Hale's  Tavern  here 
is  the  headquarters  of  the  Fat  Men's  Club  and  is  a  wellknown 
hostelry.  In  1830  a  small  steamer  ascended  the  stream  as 
far  as  Wells  River,  but  steam  navigation  on  this  part  of  the 
Connecticut  has  never  been  developed. 

The  righthand  road,  crossing  the  Connecticut,  joins  the 
East  Bank  Route  to  the  White  Mountains  at  Woodsville  and 
North  Haverhill  (p  362). 

Crossing  Wells  River  and  the  Caledonia  County  and  Barnet 
town  line,  the  route  continues  on  the  State  Road  up  the  valley, 


358  WELLS  RIVER— BRUNSWICK 

the  scenery  becoming  ever  more  mountainous  in  character. 
At  Dodge's  Falls  the  river  makes  a  considerable  descent. 

Mclndoes  Falls  (51.7),  the  principal  village  of  Barnet,  a 
saw-mill  center,  lies  at  the  pitch  which  finishes  the  long  stretch 
of  rapids  known  as  Fifteen  Mile  Falls.  These  falls  form  one 
of  the  great  waterpowers  of  the  Connecticut  soon  to  be  the 
site  of  a  million-dollar  hydro-electric  plant  at  Waterford.  Here 
is  sawed  a  considerable  part  of  the  great  annual  drive  of  logs 
from  the  headwaters  of  the  river.  Across  the  river  in  New  Hamp- 
shire is  Monroe,  with  Paddock  Mountain  a  little  to  the  south. 

54.5  BARNET.  Alt  452  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1707.  Caledonia  Co.  Settled 
1770. 

Barnet,  near  the  foot  of  the  Fifteen  Mile  Falls,  lies  at  a 
bend  where  the  river  turns  from  northeast  to  south.  Stevens 
River,  the  outlet  of  Harvey's  Lake,  empties  into  the  Con- 
necticut at  Barnet.  About  150  rods  from  the  mouth  are  some 
very  picturesque  falls. 

The  town  was  granted  to  two  sons  of  Phineas  Stevens,  who  so  gal- 
lantly defended  the  fort  at  Charlestown  (p  338).  Most  of  the  early 
settlers  were  Scotch  Presbyterians,  and,  true  to  their  early  training 
for  many  years  they  made  large  quantities  of  oatmeal. 

Soon  after  leaving  Barnet  the  road  crosses  the  Passumpsic 
river,  one  of  the  best  waterpower  streams  in  Vermont ;  a  few 
miles  up  its  valley  lies  the  town  of  St.  Johnsbury,  the  home  of 
the  Fairbanks  Scales. 

There  are  many  islands  in  the  river  near  the  mouth  of  the  Passump- 
sic, and  it  was  here  that  Rogers'  Rangers,  returning  from  their  raid 
on  the  St.  Francis  Indians,  failed  to  find  the  expected  supply  of  pro- 
visions. Many  of  the  famishing  men  died  here,  while  others  made  a 
cannibal  feast  on  the  flesh  of  a  slain  Indian.  In  his  retreat  from  St. 
Francis  to  Charlestown  Rogers  lost  nearly  half  of  his  men,  and  it  is 
said  that  in  eighteen  hours  thirty-six  of  his  men  died  here. 

From  Barnet  to  Waterford  the  road  continues  through  the 
hamlet  of  East  Barnet  (57.0)  along  the  Fifteen  Mile  Falls  to 
Lower  Waterford  (64.0),  where  Route  46,  from  the  White 
Mountains  to  St.  Johnsbury  and  Burlington,  forks  to  the  left. 

67.0  WATERFORD.  Alt  800  ft.  Pop  (twp)  629.  Caledonia  Co. 
Settled  1783. 

Waterford  is  a  little  farming  town  surrounded  by  wooded 
hills.  A  charter  has  been  secured  for  a  great  power  develop- 
ment here  on  the  Fifteen  Mile  Falls,  and  it  is  expected  that  the 
corporation  which  has  developed  the  power  at  Vernon  (p  329) 
will  develop  at  least  60,000  h.p.  here. 

The  State  Road  ceases  at  this  point.  From  here  to  Lunen- 
burg  the  river  route  is  a  town  and  county  road,  mostly  in  fair 
condition.  Crossing  the  Essex  County  and  Concord  town 
line,  it  follows  the  river  bank  through  a  thinly  populated 
country  to  South  Lunenburg  (79.0),  a  riverside  hamlet,  and 


R.  10  §  6.     W.  BK.  WHITE  RIVER  JUNC.  TO  COLEBROOK      359 

82.0  LUNENBURG.  Alt  844  ft. .  Pop  (twp)  880.  Essex  Co.  Mfg. 
lumber  and  caskets. 

Lunenburg  is  a  fine  old  country  town  on  the  river  meadows, 
backed  by  the  Lunenburg  Heights,  which  command  a  famous 
view  of  the  White  Mountains.  The  place  is  developing  into  a 
summer  resort  on  account  of  the  scenery  and  its  proximity 
to  White  Mountain  centers.  Across  the  river  is  Lancaster. 

This  was  one  of  the  early  settlements  in  Vermont  (1768).  In  1764 
settlers  arrived,  supposing  that  they  were  locating  in  this  town,  but 
they  found  afterward  that  they  were  in  Guildhall.  They  came  from 
Northfield,  Mass.,  in  canoes,  a  distance  of  150  miles. 

The  State  Road  commences  again  at  Lunenburg  and  con- 
tinues beside  the  river  all  the  way  to  Colebrook. 

94.5  GUILDHALL.  Alt  874  ft.  Pop  (twp)  445.  County -seat  of 
Essex  Co.  Settled  1764.  Mfg.  lumber. 

Guildhall  is  a  farming  town  on  the  river  meadows  a  little 
south  of  the  New  Hampshire  town  of  Groveton.  Back  from 
the  river  the  hills  rise  to  a  considerable  elevation. 

Burnside  and  Cow  Mountains  are  the  highest  in  the  town;  the  latter, 
situated  in  the  western  part,  immortalizes  a  hermit  negro  who  lived 
here  in  the  early  days  and  was  punished  for  stealing  a  cow. 

The  first  settlement  was  in  1764  in  a  region  which  was  then  much 
frequented  by  the  Indians.  A  blockhouse,  burtt  here  during  the 
Revolution,  was  afterward  used  as  the  first  county  jail.  Among  the 
natives  are  Henry  W.  Denison,  who  has  been  the  legal  adviser  of  the 
Japanese  Department  of  Foreign  Affairs  since  1880,  and  Colonel 
Everett  C.  Benton  of  the  John  C.  Paige  Insurance  Company,  who 
has  given  the  town  a  Library  and  a  Masonic  Hall. 

103.0     MAIDSTONE.    Alt  865  ft.    Pop  (twp)  175.    Settled  1772. 

Maidstone  is  said  to  have  more  acres  of  intervale  than  any 
other  Vermont  town  on  the  Connecticut.  In  the  western 
part  of  the  town  is  Maidstone  Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
three  miles  long  and  one  and  a  half  miles  wide.  From  the 
summit  of  Byron  Mountain  the  view  of  the  winding  Con- 
necticut seems  to  spell  the  word  "Union." 

Nearly  three  miles  beyond  the  town  line  the  route  enters 

106.5     BRUNSWICK.     Pop   (twp)  82.     Essex  Co.     Settled  1780. 

This  township  is  almost  an  island  because  of  the  rivers  which 
bound  it, — the  Nulhegan  river  on  the  northwest,  Paul  Stream 
on  the  southeast,  and  the  Connecticut  on  the  east. 

At  Brunswick  Springs  (113.0),  by  the  river,  is  a  semicircle 
of  mineral  springs  only  a  few  feet  apart,  each  of  which  has  a 
different  taste.  Not  far  from  here  is  Silver  Lake,  which  has 
about  twenty-eight  acres.  On  the  old  Daniel  Smith  farm  is  a 
balanced  granite  boulder  of  500  tons'  weight  upon  so  small  a 
base  that  it  has  been  called  "The  rock  that  stands  on  nothing." 

Passing  Coos  (p  365),  across  the  river,  the  road  continues 
through  Bloomfield  (115.0)  to 


360  LEMINGTON— HANOVER 

125.0     LEMINGTON.     Pop  138.     Essex  Co.     Settled  1781. 

Monadnock  Mountain  (3025  ft),  a  mass  of  granite,  is  the 
most  interesting  feature  of  the  town.  A  mineral  spring  issues 
from  the  eastern  side  of  the  mountain,  and  it  is  claimed  that 
there  are  deposits  of  silver,  lead,  and  copper. 

Four  miles  up  the  river  from  Lemington  the  route  crosses 
the  river  into 
130.0     COLEBROOK  (J>  365). 


R.  10  §  6.     East  Bank: 

West  Lebanon  to  Bretton  Woods.  80.5  m. 

This  route  follows  the  West  Side  Road,  a  State  Highway, 
marked  by  light  blue  bands.  It  runs  up  the  east  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  through  Hanover,  the  seat  of  Dartmouth  College, 
to  the  Ammonoosuc  river,  up  which  it  turns  eastward  through 
Lisbon  and  Littleton  to  Bethlehem  and  Bretton  Woods,  in 
the  center  of  the  White  Mountains. 

From  West  Lebanon  (p  354)  the  route  follows  northward 
the  State  Road  with  light  blue  markers,  which  here  comes  in 
from  Lebanon,  four  miles  east  (p  337).  Halfway  to  Hanover, 
opposite  the  Vermont  town  of  Wilder,  are  Wilder's  Falls,  fur- 
nishing power  for  the  manufacture  of  wood  pulp. 

4.0     HANOVER.     Pop  (twp)  2240.     Graf  ton  Co.     Settled  1765. 

The  home  of  Dartmouth  College  is  a  pleasant  old  town 
beautifully  situated  and  surrounded  by  rugged  hills  rising  near 
the  river  and  culminating  in  Moose  Mountain  (2326  ft).  The 
town  lies  half  a  mile  back  from  the  river  and  a  mile  from  the 
railroad  station,  which  is  on  the  Vermont  side.  Aside  from 
its  college  colony  Hanover  is  also  a  village,  and  yet  it  wears 
an  air  of  dignity  and  almost  cosmopolitan  distinction.  Un- 
affected by  railroad,  manufacturing,  or  foreign  elements,  it  is 
pre-eminently  an  academic  town. 

Dartmouth  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  in  its  outward  manifes- 
tations one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  American  colleges.  The 
buildings  of  varied  dates  and  architecture  around  the  elm- 
shaded  Green  present  a  spectacle  at  once  pleasing  and  digni- 
fied. Dartmouth  was  founded,  as  the  charter  of  1769  states, 
"to  encourage  the  laudable  and  charitable  design  of  spreading 
Christian  knowledge  among  the  savages  of  our  American 
wilderness." 

College  Hall  with  semicircular  porch  and  terrace  overlook- 
ing the  campus  is  the  College  Club,  containing  dining  and 
recreation  rooms.  Opposite,  the  Hanover  Inn  is  run  by  the 
college.  Robinson  Hall,  a  recent  building,  is  the  center  of 


R.  10  §  6.   E.  BK.  W.  LEBANON  TO  BRETTON  WOODS    361 

non-athletic  student  activities,  and  contains  offices  of  the 
student  publications,  "The  Jack-O-Lantern,"  "The  Bema," 
"The  Dartmouth"  (daily),  rooms  for  student  clubs,  and  a 
Little  Theater.  The  college  boasts  the  largest  gymnasium 
in  New  England;  in  fact,  on  a  plan  of  the  town  it  bears  the 
same  relation  to  its  surroundings  as  does  a  great  cathedral 
in  some  English  village.  Opposite  the  southeast  corner  of  the 
campus  is  Wilson  Hall,  in  which  hang  portraits  of  Eleazar 
Wheelock  and  his  successors  to  the  presidency,  also  of  Sampson 
Occum,  the  Mohegan  Indian  and  Wheelock's  first  pupil  in  his 
Lebanon  School.  Occum,  sent  to  England,  aroused  great 
enthusiasm  by  his  preaching,  and  raised  a  fund  of  £12,000. 
The  new  Dartmouth  Hall  of  1906  is  a  reproduction  of  the  old 
hall  begun  in  1784. 

Dartmouth  grew  out  of  a  mission  school  for  Indians  which  was 
established  by  the  Rev.  Eleazar  Wheelock  at  Lebanon,  Conn.,  in 
1754.  Governor  John  Wentworth  induced  him  to  move  it  to  New 
Hampshire,  and  several  towns  strove  for  the  honor  of  the  location. 
Benning  Wentworth  granted  the  college  its  present  site,  a  tract  of  500 
acres,  and  the  province  endowed  it  with  a  grant  of  44,000  acres.  The 
Earl  of  Dartmouth  acted  as  the  chairman  of  the  trustees  of  the  English 
fund  and  his  name  was  adopted  for  the  growing  institution.  The 
college  started  in  its  new  location  with  twenty-four  Indians  in  rude 
cabins  as  students.  After  several  masters  of  arts  had  returned  to 
their  former  savage  life,  doubts  as  to  the  efficacy  of  the  education  here 
meted  out  led  to  the  admission  of  white  students,  as  a  result  of  which 
the  Indians  soon  disappeared.  The  first  Commencement  was  held 
August,  1771,  in  the  open  air.  The  four  candidates  received  their 
degrees  on  a  platform  of  rough-hewn  hemlock  plank.  Governor 
John  Wentworth  was  here  with  his  retinue  from  Portsmouth,  and  at 
his  expense  an  ox  was  roasted  whole  on  the  Green  and  served  to  the 
assembly  with  a  barrel  of  rum. 

The  portion  of  the  town  in  which  the  college  was  located  was  during 
the  eighteenth  century  known  as  Dresden,  and  the  college  faculty, 
interesting  themselves  in  the  political  conflicts  of  the  time,  dominated  the 
so-called  "Dresden  Party,"  which  took  so  active  a  part  in  the  secession 
of  the  Connecticut  river  towns  from  the  New  Hampshire  government. 

The  New  Hampshire  Legislature  sought  to  transform  the  college 
into  a  State  institution,  but  met  with  most  strenuous  opposition.  The 
final  contest  with  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States  came  in 
1815,  when  Daniel  Webster,  an  alumnus,  won  the  famous  "Dart- 
mouth College  Case,"  and  has  since  been  hailed  as  the  "Re-founder." 
Other  notable  alumni  are  Rufus  Choate,  George  Ticknor,  and  John 
Ledyard,  the  traveler. 

In  College  Park  on  the  hill  near  the  Tower,  the  seniors  on  Class 
Day  gather  to  smoke  the  "pipe  of  peace"  as  did  the  earlier  students 
here.  On  the  river  bank  are  boathouses  for  the  numerous  canoes. 
On  the  bank  north  of  the  bridge  stood  the  giant  pine  from  which,  in 
i773»  John  Ledyard  fashioned  his  dug-out  canoe,  50  feet  long  and  3  feet 
wide,  for  his  voyage  alone  down  the  river  to  Old  Hartford.  It  is 
recorded  that  in  college  he  was  popular  with  his  fellows,  but  impatient 
of  discipline  and  not  diligent  in  study. 

Of  late  the  college  has  been  the  scene  of  a  notable  exhibition  of  the 
Cornish  Art  Colony's  work,  and  also  of  a  'Winter  Carnival,'  or  festival 
of  snow  and  ice  sports. 


362  HANOVER— BETHLEHEM 

From  Hanover  the  road,  marked  in  light  blue,  here  some- 
times called  the  Westside  Boulevard,  runs  northward,  follow- 
ing the  river  valley,  through  the  village  of  Lyme  (14.5). 

22.0  ORFORD.  Pop  (twp)  799.  Grafton  Co.  Mfg.  bobbins,  har- 
nesses, and  dairy  products. 

The  street  of  Orford  overlooks  broad  expanses  of  green 
meadow;  along  its  course  are  spacious  homes  of  Colonial 
days.  Six  miles  east  is  Upper  Baker's  Pond  (1400  ft),  a  pretty 
lakelet,  the  site  of  Camp  Moosilauke,  for  boys.  Above  it  rises 
Mt.  Cuba  (3500  ft). 

Continuing  up  the  river  bank,  the  light  blue  markers  lead 
through  the  village  of  Piermont  (28.0),  which  spreads  pic- 
turesquely over  the  terraces.  Six  miles  east  is  Lake  Tarleton 
and  the  Lake  Tarleton  Club,  a  semi-private  summer  resort. 

33.0     HAVERHILL.     Pop   (twp)  3498.     County -seat  of  Grafton  Co. 

This  is  a  pretty  village  on  a  hill,  opposite  the  Vermont  town 
of  Newbury,  overlooking  the  broad  meadows  and  the  famous 
Ox  Bow,  where  the  river  makes  a  circuit  of  four  miles,  return- 
ing to  within  half  a  mile  of  its  starting  point.  The  incon- 
stant stream  changes  its  course  from  year  to  year,  adding  or 
subtracting  from  the  area  of  Vermont  or  New  Hampshire. 

Haverhill,  or  Haverhill  Corner,  was  an  important  place  in 
coaching  days  when  the  stages  stopped  here  overnight.  On 
the  square  stands  the  remodeled  oldtime  inn,  known  as  the 
Bliss  Tavern,  with  two  others  nearby. 

The  river  meadows  here  were  long  known  in  the  early  history  as 
the  Coos  Meadows,  or  the  Coos  Country.  The  towns  in  this  region 
were  settled  through  the  initiative  of  four  officers  of  Colonel  Goffe's 
•regiment  who  spied  out  the  land  on  their  expedition  for  the  conquest 
of  Canada  of  1760.  As  they  were  Massachusetts  men  the  settlements 
about  here  were  named  for  their  home  towns. 

Three  miles  east  of  Haverhill  is  the  village  of  Pike,  at  which 
there  are  important  whetstone  quarries,  and  waterpower  from 
the  Oliverian  Brook.  The  Pike  Manufacturing  Company 
makes  all  kinds  of  sharpening  stones  and  has  quarries  in 
Indiana  and  Arkansas.  The  new  State  Road  from  Plymouth 
to  Haverhill  now  under  construction,  will  pass  through  Pike. 

The  State  Road  continues  past  North  Haverhill  (37.1), 
following  the  blue  bands  on  the  poles  and  turning  up  the 
valley  of  the  Ammonoosuc  river;  this  name  signifies  "fish 
story  river,"  certifying  to  the  antiquity  of  fisherman's  yarns. 
On  the  opposite  shore  is  the  village  of  Woodsville,  from  which 
a  bridge  leads  to  Wells  River  (p  357),  and  the  West  Bank 
Route  to  Colebrook. 

Note.  Town  roads  follow  the  river  bank  to  Lancaster, 
there  rejoining  the  State  Highway.  This  detour  follows  the 


R.  10  §  6.  E.  BK.  W.  LEBANON  TO  BRETTON  WOODS     363 

river  closely,  passing  through  the  town  of  Monroe  (n.o)  and 
continuing  beside  the  Fifteen  Mile  Falls  (p  358).  To  the 
right  is  the  long  wooded  ridge  of  Dalton  Mountain,  between 
which  and  the  river  is  Dalton  Village  (34.0),  with  Whitefield 
(p  364)  seven  miles  to  the  southeast.  Continuing  past  the 
slopes  of  Orne  Mountain  beside  the  river,  the  tour  enters 
LANCASTER  (41.5;  p  364). 

Following  the  State  Road  and  the  light  blue  markers  we 
ascend  the  Ammonoosuc  valley  through  the  villages  of  Bath 
(45.5)  and  Lisbon  (51.0),  where  gold  was  once  mined,  as  at 
Bridgewater,  Vt.  (R.  44).  The  roads  to  the  right  lead  to 
Sugar  Hill,  Franconia,  and  the  Franconia  Notch  (R.  34). 

62.0     LITTLETON.     Alt  700  ft.     Pop  4069.     Grafton  Co.     Settled 

1774.  Mfg.  shoes,  whetstones,  bobbins,  gloves;  creamery. 
This  is  a  prosperous  village  on  the  Ammonoosuc,  with  which 
the  main  street  runs  parallel.  Two  shoe  factories  of  Sears- 
Roebuck  Company  are  located  here.  The  heights  about  the 
town  command  a  fine  panoramic  view  of  Franconia  and  the 
White  Mountains. 

67.0     BETHLEHEM.     Alt  1450  ft.     Pop  (twp)  1201.     Grafton  Co. 

Bethlehem  is  the  highest  village  in  New  England.  This 
great  summer  settlement  has  an  open  situation  about  250  feet 
above  the  Ammonoosuc.  It  is  probably  the  center  of  a  larger 
number  of  hotels  and  boarding-places  than  any  other  place  in 
the  mountains.  There  are  magnificent  views  in  nearly  every 
direction,  including  the  Percy  Peaks,  the  Franconia  Moun- 
tains, and  the  Presidential  Range.  Crawford's,  Bretton 
Woods,  and  Fabyans  are  under  the  very  shadow  of  the  great 
mountains,  but  here  we  have  all-embracing  panoramas  of  the 
high  peaks  across  the  intervening  lowlands. 

To  the  southeast  lies  Mt.  Agassiz  (2394  ft),  named  for 
Professor  Agassiz,  who  was  much  interested  in  the  glacial 
remains  about  this  region.  A  good  carriage  road  leads  to  the 
summit,  where  there  is  an  observatory  with  a  rough  mountain 
indicator  and  a  fine  lookout  station.  The  view  is  very  ex- 
tensive and  includes  many  of  the  important  peaks  of  the  White 
Mountain  region.  Agassiz  wrote:  "The  lane  starting  from 
Bethlehem  Street,  following  the  cemetery  for  a  short  distance, 
and  hence  trending  North,  cuts  sixteen  terminal  moraines  in  a 
tract  of  about  two  miles.  Some  of  these  moraines  are  as 
distinct  as  any  I  know  in  Switzerland." 

Bethlehem  is  said  to  be  immune  from  hay  fever,  and  thou- 
sands of  sufferers  flock  here  each  summer.  The  Hay-Fever 
Convention  meets  here  annually. 

The  lefthand  road  leads  to  Franconia  (R.  34)  and  the 
righthand  to  Whitefield. 


364  MAPLEWOOD—  COLEBROOK 

68.0     MAPLEWOOD.     Alt  1490  ft.     Graf  ton  Co. 

The  fashionable .  summer  colony  of  Maplewood,  with  its 
huge  hotel  and  cottages,  lies  about  a  mile  to  the  east  of  Bethle- 
hem Center.  It  is  a  favorite  resort  in  a  bracing  situation  with 
splendid  views.  The  road  leads  on  through  Bethlehem  Junc- 
tion (70.0)  to  TWIN  MOUNTAIN  (75.0),  where  it  connects  with 
Route  10  §  7,  to  Lancaster  and  Colebrook,  and  with  Route 
51  from  Portland  and  Gorham;  Route  34  from  the  Franconia 
Notch  also  joins  it  here.  Thence  the  road  leads  on  to  Bretton 
Woods  (80.5),  where  Route  50  comes  up  the  Crawford  Notch 
from  North  Conway. 

R.  10  §  7.     East  Bank:  Bretton  Woods  to  Colebrook.    59.0m. 

This  section  continues  along  the  'West  Side  Road,'  a  State 
Highway  with  light  blue  markers,  from  Twin  Mountain,  the 
radiating  point  for  the  White  Mountain  roads,  to  the  Con- 
necticut river  by  way  of  Whitefield  and  Lancaster.  The 
panorama  of  the  Presidential  Range  to  the  east  is  especially 
fine  throughout.  Continuing,  the  route  follows  the  east  bank 
of  the  Connecticut  to  North  Stratford  and  Colebrook. 

From  Twin  Mountain  the  route  follows  the  blue-banded 
poles  northward.  The  right  fork  (2.0)  leads  to  Jefferson 
(R.  51).  Turning  left  the  route  enters 

13.7  WHITEFIELD.  Alt  950  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1635.  Coos  Co.  Mfg. 
overalls  and  seed-potato  cutters. 

This  village  is  the  center  of  a  summer  life  less  gilt-edged 
but  quite  as  happy  as  that  of  the  hotel  resorts  a  few  miles  to 
the  south.  Half  a  dozen  roads  radiate  through  the  eastern 
ranges  and  the  western  hills  to  Jefferson,  Twin  Mountain, 
Maplewood,  and  Dalton. 

The  route,  with  its  light  blue  markers,  keeps  on  northward. 

22.0  LANCASTER.  Alt  864  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3190.  Half  Shire  Town 
of  Coos  Co.  Settled  1764. 

Lancaster  is  a  pleasant  agricultural  community  at  the  con- 
fluence of  Israel  River  and  the  upper  Connecticut. 

Centennial  Park,  in  the  center  of  the  town,  commemorates 
the  town's  centennial  in  1864;  the  bronze  wolf  was  dedicated 
on  the  isoth  anniversary  in  1914.  About  the  park  are  several 
fine  old  houses.  At  the  head  of  Main  St.  is  the  Holten  home- 
stead (1780),  still  occupied  by  the  Holten  family.  The  Me- 
morial Library  was  given  by  Senator  John  W.  Weeks  of  Massa- 
chusetts, a  native  of  the  town.  Turning  to  the  left  from  Main 
St.  along  the  State  Road  we  reach  the  Junction,  to  the  right 
of  which  stands  the  fine  old  Stockwell  farm.  The  ell  of  the 
present  residence  was  the  home  of  Emmons  Stockwell,  one  of 


R.  10  §  7.     E.  BANK:  BRETTON  WOODS.  TO  COLEBROOK      365 

the  two  pioneer  settlers.  Nearby  are  the  grounds  of  the  Coos 
and  Essex  Agricultural  Society,  where  an  annual  fair  is  held. 

Just  south  of  the  town  is  Mt.  Prospect  (2059  ft).  A  splen- 
did road  leads  to  the  summit,  and  the  grade  is  at  no  point  ex- 
cessive. Here  is  located  Senator  Weeks'  summer  home.  On 
the  summit  is  a  stone  tower  erected  by  Senator  Weeks,  which 
is  open  to  the  public.  The  extended  view  includes  the  valleys 
of  the  Connecticut  and  Israel  rivers,  the  Presidential  Range, 
the  Percy  Peaks,  and  the  Franconia  Mountains,  and  the  towns 
of  Jefferson,  Whitefield,  and  Bethlehem.  On  the  slope  of  the 
hill  is  the  summer  home  of  another  of  the  'old  guard,'  Governor 
Samuel  W.  McCall  of  Massachusetts. 

Starr  King  says,  "In  the  combined  charm,  for  walks  or 
rides,  of  meadow  or  river, — the  charm,  not  of  wildness,  but  of 
cheerful  brightness  and  beneficence, — Lancaster  is  unrivaled." 

Lancaster  was  settled  by  David  Page  and  Emmons  Stockwell  in 
1764.  The  pioneers  experienced  no  trouble  from  the  Indians,  as  they 
had  been  subdued  by  Rogers'  Rangers  a  few  years  before.  The  grant 
of  the  town,  issued  by  Governor  Wentworth,  called  for  an  annual 
payment  of  ships'  masts  to  England,  but  none  were  ever  delivered. 

28.5  NORTHUMBERLAND.  Alt  826  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2184.  Coos 
Co.  Mfg.  pulp,  lumber  and  paper. 

Across  the.  Connecticut  in  Vermont  is  Guildhall  Falls. 
To  the  west  are  Mt.  Burnside  and  Cow  Mountain,  and  to  the 
east,  Mt.  Lyon,  Cape  Horn,  and  Mt.  Bellamy.  The  principal 
village  in  the  township  is  Groveton  (27.5),  situated  on  the 
valley  uplands  near  the  confluence  of  the  Upper  Ammonoosuc 
and  the  Connecticut,  between  Bellamy  and  Morse  Mountains. 

37.5     STRATFORD  HOLLOW.    Pop  (twp)  844.     Coos  Co. 

Stratford  Hollow  is  a  quiet  little  village  surrounded  by  very 
attractive  mountain  scenery.  The  two  remarkable  Percy 
Peaks  (3336  &  3149  ft)  are  situated  in  the  southeast  corner 
of  the  township.  President  Dwight  said  of  the  North  Peak 
in  1803,  "The  most  exact  and  beautiful  cone  which  I  ever 
beheld."  The  bare  parts  are  of  light-colored  granite. 

Passing  through  the  hamlet  of  Coos  (41.0),  sometimes  called 
North  Stratford  Junction,  the  route  continues  to 

59.0  COLEBROOK.  Alt  1017  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1905.  Half  Shire  Town 
of  Coos  Co.  Mfg.  lumber  and  foundry  products. 

Colebrook,  the  most  important  town  in  this  section  lies  at 
the  base  of  Mt.  Monadnock  and  Lombard's  Hill. 

The  town  was  named  in  honor  of  Sir  George  Colebrook,  to 
whom  it  was  originally  granted  in  1770.  A  good  part  of  the 
potato  starch  of  this  country  was  formerly  made  here. 

The  West  Bank  Route  (p  360)  also  enters  here  and  so  does 
Route  42  from  North  Conway  and  Gorham. 


R.  11.     NORWICH    to   WORCESTER.          84.0  m. 
Via  WILLIMANTIC,  STAFFORD  SPRINGS,  and  SOUTHBRIDGE. 

This  route  leads  through  the  heart  of  the  hill  towns  of  north- 
western Connecticut  and  southern  Massachusetts.  It  follows 
the  Connecticut  State  Highway  to  the  Massachusetts  line,  the 
course  of  which  is  clearly  marked  by  blue  bands  on  telegraph 
poles  and  fence  posts.  Through  Massachusetts  it  follows, 
for  the  most  part,  State  Highway. 


R.  11  §  1.     Norwich  to  Willimantic.  17.0  m. 

From  Norwich  (p  370)  follow  Broadway  to  the  right  of  the 
City  Hall  along  the  general  course  of  the  Yantic  river,  the 
route  marked  in  blue,  to  Yantic  (4.0).  The  waterpower  of 
the  river  here  is  utilized  by  local  factories. 

At  the  fork  the  route  bears  right,  crossing  R.R.  at  the 
station  and  the  iron  bridge  over  the  Yantic  river.  The  course 
is  now  across  the  hills,  amid  attractive  scenery,  through 

9.5     NORTH  FRANKLIN.     Pop   (Franklin  twp)  527.     Inc.  1786. 

Note.  From  North  Franklin  the  road  to  the  right  leads  to  Lebanon 
Station  and  Lebanon  (4.0).  Lebanon  is  now  an  unspoiled  New  Eng- 
land village,  uninvaded  by  summer  people,  yet  wears  the  well-pre- 
served air  that  results  from  thrift.  The  Common,  of  more  than  a 
hundred  acres,  extends  through  the  center  of  the  village.  In  pre- 
Revolutionary  times  Lebanon  was  a  place  of  some  importance.  Here 
was  the  home  of  the  Trumbulls,  a  family  which  vies  with  the  Wolcotts 
and  Griswolds  in  the  number  of  its  prominent  men.  Colonel  John 
Trumbull,  an  aide  to  Washington,  is  best  known  as  a  painter,  but  still 
more  famous  was  his  brother  Jonathan,  who  was  Governor  of  Con- 
necticut from  1769  to  1783.  He  was  Washington's  chief  counselor 
during  the  northern  campaigns,  and  when  perplexing  difficulties  arose 
Washington  would  say,  "Let  us  see  what  Brother  Jonathan  can  do." 
'Brother  Jonathan'  has  become  the  United  States  equivalent  of  John 
Bull,  and  the  popular  depiction  of  Uncle  Sam  perpetuates  some  of  the 
physical  characteristics  of  Governor  Trumbull.  The  Trumbull  man- 
sion, on  the  main  street,  was  the  residence  of  the  Governor  during  the 
Revolution,  where  he  entertained  Washington,  Lafayette,  Rocham- 
beau,  Jefferson,  and  Franklin.  The  Revolutionary  war  office  is  also 
still  preserved,  which  supplied  more  men  and  money  than  any  other 
State  save  Massachusetts.  Eleazar  Wheelock,  while  pastor  at  North 
Lebanon,  now  Columbia,  established  a  school  for  Indians  which, 
transferred  to  Hanover,  N.H.,  became  Dartmouth  College  (p36o). 

The  route  continues  downgrade  into  the  valley  of  the 
Shetucket  river  through  South  Windham  (13.5)  to 

17.0     WILLIMANTIC  (R.  3,  p  214). 

(366) 


R.    II   §   2.     WILLIMANTIC   TO   WORCESTER  367 

R.  11  §  2.     Willimantic  to  Worcester.  67.0  m. 

From  Willimantic  follow  Main  St.  westward,  and  at  the  fork 
beyond  the  Town  Farm  turn  left  on  Coventry  Road,  following 
the  blue  markers.  Columbia  Road  to  the  left,  red  markers, 
leads  by  Route  3  (p  214)  to  Hartford.  The  route  follows  the 
valley  of  the  Willimantic  river  through  Eagleville  (6.6)  to 
Mansfield  Station  (8.5).  The  village  of  Mansfield,  two  miles 
to  the  northeast,  was  the  place  of  origin  of  the  Connecticut  silk 
industry.  In  1793  the  inhabitants  received  a  bounty  on  265 
pounds  of  raw  silk,  and  in  1829  the  Mansfield  Silk  Company 
built  the  first  factory  for  the  production  of  sewing-silk. 

At  Storrs,  three  miles  east  of  Mansfield  Station,  is  the  Con- 
necticut State  Agricultural  College,  founded  in  1879,  on  a 
tract  of  600  acres  among  the  beautiful  hills  and  streams  of 
Tolland  County.  It  is  a  well  equipped  institution  attended 
by  about  300  students. 

The  route  continues  on  up  the  valley  of  the  Willimantic 
river  through  the  hamlets  of  Merrow  and  South  Willington, 
and  past  Tolland  Station  (14.0). 

The  village  of  Tolland  lies  five  miles  west.  It  is  a  beautiful 
New  England  village,  one  of  those  'flies  preserved  in  amber' 
which  have  undergone  little  change  in  a  century, — once  a 
county-seat  and  a  town  of  considerable  importance.  The  jail, 
no  longer  used,  recalls  departed  glory. 

20.0     STAFFORD  SPRINGS.    Alt  460  ft.    Pop  (twp)  5233.    Tolland 
Co.     Settled  1719.    Mfg.  woolen  goods. 

This  is  a  thriving  little  manufacturing  town.  The  park  in 
the  center  is  the  gift  of  a  Massachusetts  scion  of  the  Hyde 
family  of  the  town.  The  hospital  and  its  endowment,  in  all 
$300,000,  were  given  by  the  late  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cyril  Johnson. 
The  Agricultural  Society  holds  an  annual  fair. 

The  mineral  springs  here  were  used  by  the  Indians.  About  1765 
they  began  to  attract  visitors  and  for  more  than  fifty  years  remained 
the  principal  health  resort  and  watering  place  of  New  England.  John 
Adams,  afterward  President,  journeyed  here  on  horseback  from  his 
home  in  Quincy  and  remained  several  days  at  a  time.  In  his  diary  of 
June  2,  1771,  he  wrote,  "Thirty  people  have  been  here  today;  the 
halt,  the  lame,  the  vapory,  hypochondriac,  scrofulous,  etc.,  all  resort 
here."  In  1774  Dr.  Joseph  Warren  established  a  sanitarium  here. 
Of  their  decline  in  popularity  Edward  Everett  Hale  writes: 

"I  am  almost  sorry  to  see  that  Stafford  Springs  is  becoming  a  great 
manufacturing  town.     But  the  dear  old  hotel,  where  the  invalids  of 
»  a  century  ago  repaired  in  their  own  carriages  with  their  own  spans  of 
horses  and  their  own  negro  drivers,  is  still  extant,  and,  if  you  ask  at 
the  right  place,  they  will  show  you  the  sign  board  which  used  to  be 
displayed  over  the  bath-house  with  this  verse  of  Dr.  Dwight's: 
'"O  health,  thou  dearest  source  of  bliss  to  man, 
I  woo  thee  here,  here  at  this  far  famed  Spring.'" 

The  State  Road  follows  the  valley  of  Furnace  Brook  through 


368  STAFFORD    SPRINGS— WORCESTER 

Stafford  (22.5)  and  Staffordsville  (24.5),  and  crosses  the  Massa- 
chusetts line,  marked  by  a  monument  (27.5),  steadily  ascend- 
ing past  Wales  Pond  on  the  right  to 

30.5     WALES.    Alt  900  ft.    Pop  (twp)  345  (1910),  337  (1915).    Hamp- 
den  Co.    Inc.  1762. 

Originally  a  part  of  Brimfield,  the  village  was  named  in 
1828  in  honor  of  James  Lawrence  Wales.  Mt.  Pisgah  (1280  ft) 
rises  to  the  west.  The  State  Road,  without  markers,  follows 
down  the  valley  of  Wells  Brook  to 

34.5     BRIMFIELD.     Alt  660  ft.     Pop  (twp)  866  (1910),  934  (1915). 
Hampden  Co.    Inc.  1731. 

In  the  Brimfield  churchyard  is  buried  General  William 
Eaton,  a  U.S.  army  officer  and  afterward  Consul  at  Tunis. 

In  1805  with  a  force  of  400  Moslems  and  ipo  Christians  he  marched 
from  Cairo,  Egypt,  across  the  desert  to  Tripoli.  With  reckless  bravery 
he  stormed  the  ramparts  of  Derne  and  would  have  restored  Hamet, 
the  rightful  Pasha,  had  not  the  United  States  meantime  concluded  a 
peace  with  the  reigning  Pasha.  Eaton  was  forced  to  abandon  his 
self-imposed  task,  and  six  years  later  died  here  in  his  home  town. 
Derne  Street,  back  of  the  State  House  in  Boston,  is  the  only  commem- 
oration of  this  remarkable  exploit. 

Note.  Route  i,  connecting  with  central  and  western  New 
England,  is  reached  by  the  lefthand  road,  to  Palmer  (p  131). 
See  Connecticut  Map. 

The  State  Road  follows  the  valley  of  Mill  Brook  through 
East  Brimfield  and  Fiskdale  (40.0)  to 

42.0     STURBRIDGE.     Pop  (twp)  1957  (1910) ,1618  (1915).     Worces- 
ter Co.    Indian  name  Tanquesque.    Mfg.  augers  and  bits. 
From  Sturbridge  the  route  passes  to  the  south  of  Fisk  Hill 
and  through  Globe  Village  to 

46.0     SOUTHBRIDGE.    Alt  500  ft.    Pop  (twp)  12,592  (1910),  14,217 
(1915).     Worcester    Co.     Inc.    1816.     Mfg.    optical    goods, 
cotton  and  woolen  goods,  cutlery,  and  shuttles. 
Southbridge,  formerly  known  as  'Honest  Town,'  and  now  as 
'Eyeglass  Town,'   is   a   busy   manufacturing   village   on   the 
Quinebaug  river.     It   is  the  home  of  the  American  Optical 
Company,  the  largest  makers  of  lenses  in  the  country. 

The  State  Road  leads  northward  along  the  valley  of  Cady 
Brook  to  Charlton  City  (52.0),  where  it  turns  west  to 

53.0     CHARLTON.    Alt  888ft.    Pop  (twp)  2032  (1910),  2213  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.     Inc.  1764. 

This  was  the  birthplace  of  Dr.  Wm.  T.  G.  Morton  (b.  1819), 
discoverer  of  the  use  of  ether  as  an  anesthetic.  He  obtained 
a  patent  for  his  great  discovery  under  the  name  of  "Letheon." 

The  .State  Road  runs  across  the  hills  to  North  Oxford  (58.5). 
where  it  joins  Route  12  (p  375),  with  blue  markers,  to 
67.0     WORCESTER  (R.  1,  p  136). 


R.  12.     NEW   LONDON  to   WORCESTER  and 
CONCORD,    N.H.     195.0m. 

Via  NORWICH,  PUTNAM,  FITCHBURG,  and  PETERBORO. 

This  north  and  south  route  through  the  heart  of  New  Eng- 
land follows  the  valley  of  the  Thames  and  its  tributary,  the 
Quinebaug,  thence  crosses  the  eastern  hill  country  of  Massa- 
chusetts, and  from  Peterboro  follows  the  valley  of  the  Contoo- 
cook  northward.  It  traverses  varied  and  interesting  scenic 
regions,  passes  through  many  industrial  towns,  where  one  may 
feel  the  pulse  of  New  England,  and  joins  the  east  and  west 
route  across  New  Hampshire  from  Concord  to  Claremont. 

Though  chiefly  State  Road  it  is  a  route  which  will  probably 
be  of  avail  chiefly  in  short  sections  for  connecting  links. 


R.  12  §  1.     New  London  to  Worcester.  77.0  m. 

From  New  London  to  Thompson  and  Worcester  this  route 
follows  one  of  the  primary  north  and  south  trunk  lines  of  State 
Highway,  throughout  its  course  marked  by  blue  markers. 
The  first  stretch  is  along  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Thames, 
the  scene  of  the  Harvard-Yale  boat  races.  Norwich  is  a  manu- 
facturing city  of  great  antiquarian  interest.  At  the  water- 
powers  of  the  Quinebaug  are  numerous  small  industrial  towns, 
each  manufacturing  its  Yankee  specialty.  Timothy  Dwight 
a  century  ago  wrote  of  the  road  from  New  London  to  Nor- 
wich: "The  road  is  a  turnpike,  the  first  which  was  made  in 
the  United  States.  The  former  road  was  perfectly  fitted  to 
force  upon  the  public  mind  the  utility  of  turnpike  roads." 

From  the  Parade,  New  London,  the  route  proceeds  north- 
ward on  State  and  Huntington  Sts.,  or  along  Main  St.  past  the 
Old  Town  Mill  (p  163),  both  of  which  come  together  on  William 
St.  The  route  to  the  right,  Mohegan  Ave.,  followed  by  the 
trolley,  is  the  old  Mohegan  Indian  Trail.  To  the  right  and  left 
are  the  extensive  grounds  of  the  new  Connecticut  College  for 
Women,  the  buildings  of  which  are  on  the  hill  to  the  left 
(p  164).  The  route  runs  straight  ahead  over  Quaker  Hill 
(200  ft).  Below  to  the  right  we  overlook  the  broad  and  beauti- 
ful estuary  of  the  Thames  river  and  the  four-mile  course,  the 
scene  since  1878  of  the  annual  Harvard-Yale  boat  races.  On 
the  opposite  shore  is  the  United  States  Naval  Torpedo  Station, 
and  just  above,  Red  Top,  the  quarters  of  the  Harvard  crews, 
directly  on  the  bank  of  the  river. 

(369) 


37°  NEW    LONDON— NORWICH 

A  mile  further  north  on  the  further  shore,  on  a  beautiful 
peninsula,  is  Gales  Ferry,  the  headquarters  in  June  of  the  Yale 
crews,  and  during  the  summer  of  a  Yale  tutoring  school. 
During  the  War  of  1812  Commodore  Decatur  with  three 
vessels  was  blockaded  for  over  a  year  in  the  river  above  by 
the  British  ship  "Wasp,"  which  was  long  at  anchor  here.  It 
is  said  that  more  than  one  Gales  Ferry  lassie  perhaps  disloyally 
lost  her  heart  to  the  British  naval  officers.  Decatur  built  a  re- 
doubt on  Allyn's  Mountain  to  the  north,  now  marked  by  a 
tablet  on  one  of  the  boundary  boulders. 

The  route  crosses  Oxoboxo  Brook.  To  the  left  lies  the 
hamlet  of  Uncasville,  named  from  the  famous  sachem  who  had 
so  much  to  do  with  the  early  history  of  this  region.  Beyond 
the  State  Road  crosses  the  crest  of  Mohegan  Hill  (300  ft). 
Below,  on  the  river,  is  the  village  of  Mohegan. 

In  1640  Uncas,  the  sachem  of  the  Mohegans,  ceded  most  of  the  terri- 
tory about  Norwich  to  the  Connecticut  Colony,  and  when  the  white 
settlers  came  he  removed  with  his  tribe  to  this  point.  On  the  highest 
hill  in  the  village  are  the  remains  of  his  old  fortress,  and  on  the  Mo- 
hegan reservation  in  the  vicinity  there  still  dwells  a  small  colony  of 
half-breeds,  the  remnant  of  this  once  powerful  tribe. 

The  route  continues  along  Thames  St.  through  the  manu- 
facturing suburb  of  Thamesville.  Here  is  located  the  paper- 
board  mill  of  the  American  Straw  Board  Company,  one  of  the 
largest  in  the  world,  with  a  daily  capacity  of  125  tons. 

As  we  approach  Norwich  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  city 
with  its  commanding  position  on  rising  ground  between  the 
valleys  of  the  Yantic  and  the  Shetucket.  Crossing  the  Yantic 
river  by  a  bridge  which  reaches  across  intervening  islands,  the 
route  follows  Main  St.  into  the  center  of 

13.0  NORWICH.  Alt  33  ft.  Pop  24,637  (1910),  30,000  (loc.  est. 
1915);  one  fifth  foreign-born.  New  London  Co.  Settled 
1659.  Mfg.  cotton,  woolens,  velvet,  paper,  firearms,  thermos 
bottles,  boilers,  envelope  machinery,  trunks.  Value  of 
Product,  $10,000,000. 

Norwich,  called  the  'Rose  of  New  England,'  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  cities  of  the  State,  occupying  a  sightly  position 
between  the  valleys  of  the  Yantic  and  the  Shetucket,  which 
here  unite  to  form  the  Thames.  This  is  the  head  of  navigation 
and  considerable  commerce  is  carried  on.  The  city  and  its 
surrounding  suburbs  have  a  hundred  manufacturing  plants  and 
also  many  interesting  memorials  of  Colonial  days. 

Mrs.  Lydia  H.  Sigourney,  born  in  a  house  still  standing  at 
380  Washington  St.,  describes  Norwich  viewed  from  the 
eastern  acclivity  as  "like  a  citadel,  guarded  by  parapets  of 
rock,  and  embosomed  in  an  amphitheater  of  hills,  whose  sum- 
mits mark  the  horizon  with  a  waving  line  of  forest  green." 


R.   12   §   I.     NEW  LONDON  TO  WORCESTER  371 

Edmund  Clarence  Stedman,  though  not  a  native  of  Nor- 
wich, spent  his  younger  years  here  and  wrote  affectionately: 

"Guarded  by  circling  streams  and  wooded  mountains, 
Like  sentinels  round  a  queen; 
Dotted  with  groves  and  musical  with  fountains, 
The  city  lies  serene." 

Norwich  was  settled  in  1659  by  colonists  from  Saybrook  under  the 
leadership  of  Captain  John  Mason  (1600-72),  who  had  crushed  the 
power  of  the  Pequots  at  Fort  Mystic  in  1637,  and  the  Rev.  James 
Fitch,  the  pastor  of  the  church,  who  became  much  interested  in  the 
welfare  of  the  Mohegans.  Previous  to  that  time  this  site  had  been 
one  of  the  principal  residences  of  the  Mohegans. 

As  the  counselor  and  friend  of  Uncas,  the  wise  Mohegan  sachem, 
Captain  Mason  was  doubtless  largely  responsible  for  the  deed  of  con- 
veyance signed  by  Uncas  and  his  two  sons  at  Saybrook  in  June,  1659, 
granting  thirty-five  proprietors  the  title  to  a  tract  nine  miles  square, 
called  Mohegan  until  1662,  when  it  was  renamed  for  the  old  English 
town.  During  the  Revolution  the  citizens  of  Norwich  were  ardent 
patriots,  and  among  their  leaders  were  the  Huntingtons,  several  of 
whom  took  part  in  the  war  and  were  members  of  Congress.  Samuel 
Huntington  was  a  member  of  the  Continental  Congress  from  1775  to 
1780,  its  president  from  1779  to  1781,  a  signer  of  the  Declaration  of 
Independence,  and  Governor  of  Connecticut  from  1786  to  1796.  His 
house  still  stands  on  East  Town  St. 

In  December,  1767,  in  reply  to  the  message  from  Boston,  a  town- 
meeting  forbade  the  use  of  tea,  wines,  liquors,  and  foreign  manufac- 
tures, and  in  1770  the  citizens  were  forbidden  to  hold  intercourse  with 
a  school  master  who  persisted  in  drinking  tea. 

Norwich  was  chartered  as  a  city  in  1784  and  at  this  time  carried 
on  a  thriving  commerce  with  the  West  Indies  and  the  Atlantic  ports. 
The  embargo  of  1807  and  the  War  of  1812  proved  a  death-blow  to  the 
commerce;  but  the  protectionism  of  1813  resulted  in  a  rapid  development 
of  manufacturing.  Later  John  Fox  Slater  was  interested  in  cotton 
mills  at  Taftville  and  Jewett  City,  and  he  and  his  son,  William  A. 
Slater,  have  been  liberal  benefactors  of  the  town.  The  older  parts 
of  the  city  remain  residential  and  the  factories  are  on  the  outskirts,  as 
at  Thamesville,  Greenville,  Taftville,  Yantic,  and  Occum. 

The  city  occupies  the  narrow  strips  between  the  rivers,  the 
gneiss  ledges  of  the  hills,  and  the  little  island  formed  by  the 
division  of  the  Yantic  river.  The  business  part  of  the  city 
forms  a  sort  of  semicircle,  from  which  the  residential  streets 
rise  in  terraces.  At  Chelsea  Parade  is  the  Norwich  Free 
Academy  (1856),  which  takes  the  place  of  a  public  high  school, 
and  here  is  the  Slater  Memorial  Hall,  in  which  are  the  Peck 
Library  and  the  Converse  Art  Collection.  From  this  point 
Sachem  Street  leads  to  the  falls  of  the  Yantic,  with  their 
"beetling  cliffs,  the  compressed  channel,  the  confused  mass  of 
granite,  and  the  roaring,  foaming  river."  A  dam  diverts  the 
water  by  an  artificial  channel  to  the  numerous  factories. 

Mohegan  Park,  a  tract  of  natural  woodland  in  the  heart  of 
the  city,  the  gift  of  private  individuals,  is  accessible  for  vehicles 
and  pedestrians  from  Washington  St.  and  Rockwell  St.  Chel- 
sea Parade  and  the  Little  Plain  on  Broadway  were  also  gifts 


372  NORWICH— DANIELSON 

of  generous  citizens,  as  were  the  Meeting  House  Rocks  up- 
town and  Lowthorpe  Meadows  opposite  the  Coit  Elms. 

On  Sachem  St.,  near  the  falls,  is  the  little  Indian  cemetery 
with  the  grave  of  Uncas,  marked  by  a  granite  shaft,  the  corner- 
stone of  which  was  laid  by  Andrew  Jackson  in  1833.  Uncas 
was  a  Pequot  who  in  1634  revolted  against  the  Sachem  Sassa- 
cus  and  joined  the  Mohegans,  who  elected  him  sachem  of  the 
tribe,  over  which  he  ruled  for  fifty  years  until  his  death  in 
1683.  He  always  remained  a  firm  friend  of  the  colonists.  The 
Pequots  and  Mohegans  were  of  the  same  race  as  the  Hudson 
River  Mohegans,  but  shortly  before  1600  migrated  eastward, 
fighting  their  way  into  southeastern  Connecticut.  This  spot 
has  always  been  the  burial  ground  for  the  "royal  blood  of 
Mohegan,"  and  many  of  the  grand  sachems  are  buried  here. 
The  last  of  the  line  was  Mazeen,  who  was  buried  here  in  1826. 

Northeast  of  the  Catholic  Cemetery  beyond  Greenville,  on 
a  rocky  bluff  in  the  extreme  eastern  part  of  the  city,  is  a 
monument  erected  in  1841  to  Miantonomoh,  a  sachem  of  the 
Narragansetts  who  was  captured  here  in  1643  by  the  Mohe- 
gans and  taken  to  Hartford,  where  Uncas  had  him  executed. 

Norwich  contains  a  number  of  old  houses  which  will  interest 
the  antiquarian.  The  Thomas  Lathrop  house,  in  which  Mrs. 
Lydia  H.  Sigourney  was  born  and  passed  her  girlhood,  is 
described  in  her  "Letters  of  Life"  and  "Connecticut  Forty 
Years  Since."  The  homes  of  General  Jabez  Huntington  and 
his  sons  of  Revolutionary  fame,  the  Coit  homestead,  and  the 
Coit  Elms  are  alluded  to  by  Holmes  in  the  "Autocrat  of  the 
Breakfast  Table."  The  house  in  which  David  A.  Wells,  the 
famous  economist,  lived  for  several  years  stands  on  Washing- 
ton St.  below  Broad.  Norwich  was  the  birthplace  of  Benedict 
Arnold,  the  traitor,  Donald  G.  Mitchell,  'Ik  Marvel,'  and  of 
Daniel  C.  Gilman,  President  of  Johns  Hopkins  University. 
The  house  of  Aaron  Cleveland,  great-grandfather  of  Grover,  still 
stands  on  West  Town  St.  at  Bean  Hill.  Nearby  is  the  shop  in 
which  he  carried  on  the  business  of  a  silversmith.  The  fore- 
bears of  Presidents  Fillmore,  Grant,  Hayes,  Garfield,  and 
Cleveland  lived  in  Norwich.  The  Adams  Express  Company 
was  first  started  as  a  route  between  Norwich,  New  London, 
and  New  York  by  the  boat  lines. 

At  Norwich  and  in  the  surrounding  villages,  located  at 
available  waterpowers,  are  some  of  the  largest  cotton  mills  of  the 
country.  The  J.  B.  Martin  Company  produces  1,000,000  yards 
of  velvet  annually,  the  U.S.  Finishing  Company  85,000,000 
yards  per  annum,  the  Totokett  Mills,  to  the  north  at  Occum, 
2,000,000  yards  of  cotton  goods,  and  the  Falls  Company 
5,500,000  yards  of  fine  cotton  goods  and  awnings.  The 


R.    12   §   i.     NEW  LONDON  TO  WORCESTER  373 

Hopkins  &  Allen  Arms  Company's  plant  has  a  large  output  of 
firearms  of  all  descriptions,  and  has  recently  been  manufac- 
turing military  rifles  for  the  Belgian  Government.  The  Ameri- 
can Thermos  Bottle  Company  has  its  large  factory  here  and 
ships  its  products  to  all  parts  of  the  world. 

Leaving  Norwich  we  follow  North  Main  St.  and  Central 
Ave.,  parallel  with  the  Shetucket  river,  bearing  left  with  trolley 
through  Greenville  (14.5).  The  mills  of  the  Shetucket  Com- 
pany here  produce  annually  6,000,000  yards  of  denims. 

At  Taft  Station  the  road  forks,  the  lefthand  road  leading 
north  along  the  valley  of  the  Shetucket  to  Taftville,  one  of 
the  most  important  of  the  manufacturing  suburbs  of  Norwich. 
Here  are  the  great  Ponemah  Cotton  Mills,  among  the  largest 
in  the  country,  with  an  output  of  22,000,000  yards  a  year. 

The  main  route  bears  right  with  the  blue  markers,  following 
the  valley  of  the  Quinebaug.  At  Jewett  City  (22.0)  bear  left, 
crossing  R.R.,  curving  right  by  Clayville  Pond,  and  passing 
straight  through  the  village  of 

28.5     PLAINFIELD.     Alt  177  ft.     Pop   (twp)  6719.     Windham  Co. 
Settled  1689.     Mfg.  cotton  and  woolen  goods. 

Plainfield  was  settled  in  1689  from  Chelmsford,  Mass.  Its 
'plains'  were  called  Egypt  by  the  surrounding  settlements  on 
account  of  the  great  quantities  of  corn  which  were  raised. 

Note.  A  mile  and  a  half  beyond  the  village  the  righthand 
road  leads  to  Moosup  and  Providence.  See  Conn.,  and  R.I. 
Maps. 

At  Central  Village  (31.5)  keep  to  the  right,  following  the 
blue  markers  on  telegraph  poles  to 

38.0     DANIELSON.     Alt   226  ft.     Pop  (twp)  2934.      Windham   Co. 

Mfg.  shoes,  cotton,  woolen,  shuttles,  and  mill  supplies. 
Danielson  is  a  pleasantly  situated  village  with  several  cotton 
mills  and  shoe  factories  which  utilize  the  power  furnished  by 
the  Quinebaug  and  the  Five  Mile  rivers,  which  join  here. 
Originally  part  of  Killingly,  it  was  named  for  General  James 
Danielson,  the  builder  of  the  first  house  in  the  settlement. 

Note.     The  righthand  road  leads  to  Providence. 

From  Danielson  -we  continue  to  ascend  through  a  hilly  and 
well  wooded  country  along  the  valley  of  Five  Mile  River. 
This  region  was  formerly  a  part  of  the  Indian  districts  of 
Attawaugan  and  Minnetixit. 

The  Narragansetts  once  gave  the  Nipmucks,  who  inhabited  this 
region,  a  great  seashore  feast,  and  the  following  year  they  were  in- 
vited to  these  uplands  to  eat  venison.  A  quarrel  arose  during  the 
banquet  and  the  Narragansetts  were  massacred.  Their  tribe  marched 
a  strong  force  into  the  Nipmuck  country  to  seek  revenge,  but  received 
a  severe  defeat  at  the  fords  of  the  Quinebaug. 


374  KILLINGLY—  WORCESTER 

41.0  KILLINGLY.  Alt  250  ft.  Pop  (twp)  6564.  Windham  Co. 
Inc.  1708.  Mfg.  cotton  and  woolens,  and  whip-sockets. 

The  first  contribution  to  the  college  which  later  became 
Yale  was  the  gift  of  John  Fitch  of  Norwich  of  637  acres  of 
land  in  Killingly.  With  this  he  gave  enough  glass  and  nails 
for  a  college  hall.  Cotton  mills  were  established  here  early 
in  the  nineteenth  century. 

"A  very  extraordinary  discovery  was  made  in  this  town,"  says  an 
old  gazetteer,  "a  living  frog  having  been  dug  out  of  the  earth,  3 
feet  below  the  surface.  It  was  enclosed  or  embodied  in  a  stratum  of 
clay;  and,  on  being  disengaged,  left  a  distinct  figure  of  the  frog, 
resembling  a  mould.  The  frog  when  discovered,  was  in  a  torpid  state; 
but  on  coming  to  the  air,  it  became  animated,  and  acquired  strength 
and  power,  and  soon  added  one  to  the  race  of  living  animals." 

47.0    PUTNAM  (R.  3,  p  216). 

Route  3,  from  New  York  and  Hartford,  here  crosses  east 
and  west.  See  Conn.  Map. 

Note.  The  shortest  route  to  Thompson  leads  out  School 
St.  through  Mechanicsville,  at  the  junction  of  the  Quinebaug 
and  French  rivers. 

The  State  Highway,  with  blue  markers,  leaves  Putnam  via 
Woodstock  Ave.  and  curves  north  through  West  Thompson  to 

53.0  THOMPSON.  Alt  428  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4804.  Windham  Co. 
Inc.  1785.  Mfg.  cotton  and  woolen  goods. 

This  was  an  important  post  road  town  in  Colonial  days. 
The  inn  was  built  here  in  1831  by  Vernon  Stiles,  an  interesting 
character  of  the  town.  It  was  by  means  of  the  complicated 
stairways  in  this  inn  that  Governor  Dorr,  of  Dorr's  Rebellion 
(p  187),  escaped  from  his  pursuers. 

Note.  From  Thompson  Station  a  shorter  route  runs  directly 
north  to  Lake  Chaubunagungamaug. 

The  State  Road,  with  its  blue  markers,  swings  eastward 
through  East  Thompson  (55.3),  in  the  extreme  northeastern 
corner  of  the  State. 

Immediately  after  crossing  the  State  line  (57.0),  the  State 
Road  skirts  the  shore  of  the  lake  which  rejoices  in  the  name  of 
Chaugogagogmanchaugagogchaubunagungamaug.  It  is  "three 
miles  in  length,"  a  local  authority  says,  not  specifying  whether 
the  name  or  the  sheet  of  water.  In  any  case  it  is  one  of  the 
largest  lakes  in  Massachusetts.  The  name,  usually  abbrevi- 
ated to  the  last  six  syllables  that  on  the  map  it  may  not  extend 
across  the  whole  of  New  England  and  get  lost  in  the  ocean, 
means,  "You  fish  on  your  side,  I  fish  on  my  side,  nobody  shall 
fish  in  the  middle."  The  region  about  here  was  much  revered 
by  the  Nipmuck  Indians,  who  believed  it  to  be  the  home  of  the 
Great  Spirit. 

East  Webster  (60.0)  lies  on  the  shore  at  the  north  end  of  the 
lake.  A  mile  to  the  east  is  the  town  of 


R.   12   §   2.     WORCESTER  TO  CONCORD,  N.H.  375 

WEBSTER.     Alt  440  ft.     Pop   (twp)  11,509   (1910),  12J81    (1915). 

Worcester  Co.     Inc.  1832.     Mfg.  cotton  and  woolen  goods, 

and  shoes. 

This  is  one  of  the  mill  towns  of  Massachusetts,  utilizing  the 
waterpower  of  the  French  river.  Its  importance  dates  from 
1812,  when  Samuel  Slater  founded  the  cotton  mills.  In 
1832  it  was  set  off  from  the  towns  of  Oxford  and  Dudley,  and 
named  in  honor  of  Daniel  Webster,  then  at  the  height  of  his 
fame.  The  Slater  Mills  have  made  the  town  what  it  is.  Here 
is  made  most  of  the  cloth  for  the  uniforms  of  the  United 
States  Army,  Pullman  porters,  and  much  of  that  used  by  hotel 
porters  and  bell  boys  throughout  the  country.  In  1912  the 
company  produced  1,250,000  pieces  of  cotton  and  90,000 
pieces  of  woolens  and  worsteds.  At  the  Slater  residences  •  in 
East  Webster,  Mrs.  Horatio  N.  Slater  and  her  daughters 
entertained  the  mill  hands,  at  the  wedding  of  Miss  Esther 
Slater  in  1915,  the  Boston  and  Blue  Hill  residences  being  more 
frequented  by  the  family. 

64.0  OXFORD.  Alt  516  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3361  (1910),  3407  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Settled  1683.  Indian  name  Manchaug. 
Mfg.  cotton,  woolens,  and  shoes. 

Oxford  is  a  pleasant  tree-shaded  town  with  shoe  factories 
and  cotton  and  woolen  mills.  The  town  was  named  in  honor 
of  the  university  in  England. 

At  Fort  Hill  are  the  remains  of  a  bastioned  fort  built  by  French 
Huguenots  who  settled  here  in  1683.  A  few  years  later  they  were  so 
alarmed  by  the  Indians  that  they  returned  to  Boston. 

At  North  Oxford  (68.5)  bear  right,  following  macadam 
State  Road,  with  blue  markers.  Route  n  (p  368)  enters  here 
from  Stafford  Springs  and  Southbridge.  Pass  through  the 
village  of  Auburn  (73.0)  and  beyond  cross  over  the  R.R.,  bear- 
ing left.  As  we  enter  Worcester,  Holy  Cross  College  is  on  a 
hill  to  the  right.  We  enter  on  Southbridge  St.,  curving  into 
Main  St.  with  Route  i,  from  New  York  and  Springfield. 
77.0  WORCESTER  (R.  1,  p  136). 


R.  12  §  2.     Worcester  to  Concord,  N.H.  118.0  m. 

Via  FITCHBURG  and  PETERBORO. 

This  section  of  the  route  follows  a  north  and  south  trunk 
line  State  Road  the  course  of  which  is  clearly  indicated  by 
blue  bands  on  poles  and  posts  as  far  as  Fitchburg. 

Leaving  Worcester  City  Hall  via  Main  St.  the  route  turns 
left  on  Salisbury  St.  past  the  Armory,  through  Grove  St.  and 
Park  Ave.  to  Chadwick  Square.  Taking  right  fork  on  West 
Boylston  St.  we  leave  the  Fair  Grounds  and  Indian  Lake  to 


376  WORCESTER— E.  JAFFREY 

the  left.  Passing  through  Barbers  Crossing  (3.0),  after  cross- 
ing R.R.  turn  left  with  trolley  and  follow  the  blue  markers, 
passing  Greendale  Station  on  the  left  (3.5).  The  route  crosses 
an  arm  of  Wachusett  Reservoir,  of  which  there  are  several  fine 
views,  by  a  stone  bridge  to 

8.0  WEST  BOYLSTON.  Alt  439  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1270  (1910),  1309 
(1915).  Worcester  Co.  Settled  1720.  Mfg.  pipe  organs. 

West  Boylston,  now  a  farming  and  residential  community, 
was  formerly  something  of  a  manufacturing  town.  It  was  the 
home  of  Robert  B.  Thomas  (1766-1847),  astronomer  and 
philosopher,  who  in  1793  originated  the  "Old  Farmer's  Alma- 
nack," and  continued  its  publication  for  fifty  years.  Pipe 
organs  are  still  made  here  by  G.  W.  Reed  &  Son. 

The  great  Nashua  Storage  Reservoir,  or  Wachusett  Reservoir,  with 
a  circumference  of  35  miles  and  an  area  of  4000  acres,  is  the  largest 
body  of  water  in  Massachusetts  and  one  of  the  largest  storage  reser- 
voirs in  the  world,  with  a  capacity  of  63,068,000,000  gallons.  It  is 
considerably  larger  than  the  Nira  Basin  at  Poona,  India,  the  San 
Mateo  Basin  in  California,  or  the  Croton  Reservoir  of  New  York. 
As  a  part  of  the  Boston  Metropolitan  Water  System  it  supplies  not 
only  Boston  but  most  of  the  cities  and  towns  within  a  ten-mile  radius. 
A  natural  lake  existed  here,  formed  by  the  widening  of  the  Nashua 
river.  The  great  dam  built  at  Clinton  (1896-1905)  flooded  parts  of 
Clinton,  Sterling,  and  Boylston,  and  practically  submerged  the  little 
village  of  West  Boylston,  the  State  buying  up  the  farms  and  dwellings. 
From  the  reservoir  the  water  is  carried  in  a  covered  aqueduct  about 
ii  feet  wide  and  10  feet  high  to  Northboro  and  thence  in  an  open 
channel  to  Reservoir  Number  Five  of  the  Sudbury  System.  From  the 
Sudbury  reservoir  there  is  a  second  aqueduct  which  branches  at  Weston 
into  two  pipe  lines,  to  Arlington  and  to  the  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir. 

Beyond  Sterling  Junction  (10.5)  the  road,  marked  with 
blue,  skirts  the  Waushaccum  ponds,  passes  Sterling  Inn,  a 
favorite  resort  of  motorists,  on  the  left,  and  reaches 

13.0  STERLING.  Alt  494  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1359  (1910),  1403  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Settled  1701.  Indian  name  Chocksett. 

East  of  the  town  is  Redstone  Hill  (620  ft),  so  named  from 
the  color  of  the  rocks,  due  to  traces  of  iron.  In  the  middle  of 
the  eighteenth  century  a  shaft  was  sunk  here  about  a  hundred 
feet  in  search  of  precious  metals. 

Sterling  was  purchased  in  1701  from  the  Nashua  Sachem,  Tahanto, 
a  nephew  of  Sholan.  It  was  later  named  for  Stirling,  Scotland. 

20.0     LEOMINSTER.     Alt  404  ft.     Pop  (twp)  17,580  (1910),  17,646, 
(1915).     Worcester    Co.     Inc.    1740.     Mfg.    combs,   furni- 
ture, paper,  buttons,  pianos,  baby  carriages,  worsteds,  cot- 
tons, woolens,  shirts.     Value  of  Product,  $7,501,720. 
Leominster  is  known  as  the  'baby  city'  of  Massachusetts,  for 
it  celebrated  its  17  5th  anniversary  as  a  town  by  adopting  the 
city  form  of  government,  electing  its  first  mayor  in  1915.     It 
is  a^manufacturing  center;    some  seventy  different  industries 
produce  minor  articles  of  daily  use.     The  Special  U.S.  Census 


R.    12   §   2.     WORCESTER  TO   CONCORD,  N.H.  377 

of  Manufactures  of  1905  states  that  the  township  had  in  that 
year  a  greater  variety  of  important  manufacturing  industries 
than  any  other  town  of  its  size  in  the  State. 

The  manufacture  of  horn  hairpins  and  combs  originated  here 
and  has  thrived  steadily.  Of  the  various  substitutes  for  horn, 
viscoloid,  made  here,  is  sold  in  large  quantities  to  manufac- 
turers elsewhere.  Leominster  has  the  largest  baby-carriage 
factory  in  the  world.  The  Geo.  W.  Wheelwright  Co.  has  a  large 
mill  here  for  the  manufacture  of  bristol  board.  See  p  800. 

From  Leominster  the  route  follows  the  blue  markers  to 
South  Fitchburg,  entering  Main  St. 

24.5     FITCHBURG  (R.  15,  p  419). 

The  route  follows  Main  St.  past  the  City  Hall.  At  the  iron 
watering  trough  in  the  fork  it  bears  right  along  the  Park  fol- 
lowing Mechanic  St.  northward.  Straight  ahead,  River  St. 
leads  to  Greenfield,  Route  15,  and  Winchendon,  Route  33. 

A  good  State  Road,  telegraph  poles  unmarked,  runs  to 

32.0  ASHBY.  Alt  900  ft.  Pop  (twp)  885  (1910),  911  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Inc  1767. 

Ashby  is  a  typical  old  New  England  town,  made  up  from 
portions  of  other  towns.  The  early  settlement  suffered  severely 
from  the  Indians,  but  the  settlers  refused  to  abandon  the  set- 
tlement and  repelled  all  attacks. 

Five  miles  from  Ashby  the  road  passes  Watatic  Pond  and 
between  Watatic  Mountain  (1860  ft)  to  the  north  and  Little 
Watatic  Mountain  (1560  ft)  to  the  south.  A  few  miles  beyond 
we  cross  the  New  Hampshire  line,  from  which  the  road  is 
plainly  indicated  by  gray  markers  on  poles  and  fence  posts. 

63.0  WEST  RINDGE.  Alt  1090  ft.  Pop  (twp)  706.  Cheshire  Co. 
Settled  1739. 

Rindge  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  hilly  lake  region,  unlike  most 
portions  of  New  England,  sandy  and  forested,  while  the  farms 
lie  on  the  hill  slopes.  The  town  is  on  the  watershed  of  the 
Connecticut  and  Merrimack  rivers.  There  are  several  houses 
so  situated  that  the  water  from  one  side  of  the  roof  flows  into 
the  Merrimack  and  from  the  other  into  the  Connecticut. 
Thirteen  ponds  lie  within  the  borders  of  the  town,  of  which 
Monomock  Lake  is  the  largest.  Here  are  the  headwaters  of 
the  Contoocook  river. 

From  West  Rindge  the  route  follows  R.R.  to  East  Jaffrey 
through  a  marshy  valley,  passing  a  number  of  ponds. 

66.5     EAST    JAFFREY.     Alt    1026    ft.     Pop    1895.     Cheshire    Co. 

Mfg.  wooden  ware  and  tacks. 

East  Jaffrey  is  a  pleasant  little  village  visited  in  summer  on 
account  of  its  high,  bracing  situation  and  its  proximity  to 


378  E.  JAFFREY— PETERBORO 

Monadnock.  The  frame  of  the  village  church  was  raised  on 
June  17,  1775,  and  so  patriotic  were  the  townspeople  that  they 
claimed  that  they  could  hear  the  cannonading  of  Bunker  Hill. 

The  beautiful  cone  of  Mt.  Monadnock  (3186  ft)  rises  strik- 
ingly to  the  northwest.  A  symmetrical  and  isolated  rock  mass, 
it  is,  as  Prof.  W.  M.  Davis  writes,  one  of  the  "last  remaining 
hard-rock  kernels  of  once  much  higher  mountain  masses,  now 
nearly  worn  away." 

From  East  Jaffrey  a  road  leads  northwest  through  the  hamlet 
of  Jaffrey  to  the  Mountain  House,  which  lies  on  the  southern 
slope  of  Monadnock  at  an  elevation  of  about  2000  feet ;  there 
is  a  good  path,  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  to  the  summit. 

From  East  Jaffrey  to  Peterboro  we  follow  the  gray  markers 
through  the  uplands  of  the  valley  of  the  Contoocook.  Ahead 
on  the  right  is  the  lofty  ridge  of  Pack  Monadnock.  About  the 
last  of  June  the  mountain  laurel  is  very  fine  hereabout. 

73.S  PETERBORO.  Alt  744  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2277.  Hillsboro  Co. 
Settled  1739.  Mfg.  cotton,  woolen,  trusses,  thermometers, 
chairs,  and  baskets. 

Peterboro  is  a  picturesque  manufacturing  village  in  the  val- 
ley of  the  Contoocook,  amid  the  green  hills  of  the  Monadnock 
range.  The  region  about  is  surrounded  by  country  estates 
and  has  become  widely  known  through  the  summer  activities 
of  the  MacDowell  Association  and  the  Sargent  Camp. 

At  the  center  is  the  old  Wilson  Tavern,  now  known  as  Cross- 
roads, over  a  century  old,  containing  twenty-one  rooms  and 
eleven  fireplaces,  a  secret  hiding  hole  capable  of  concealing 
six  or  eight  persons,  and  pockets  in  the  floor  for  the  storage  of 
treasures  and  documents.  On  the  'Old  Street  Road'  is  a 
boulder  with  a  memorial  tablet  erected  by  the  D.A.R.  and 
marked  "Site  of  First  Tavern/  in  this  town  kept  in  i775/  by/ 
Major  Robert  Wilson/  was  fifty  feet  west  of  this  spot/  from 
which  on  April  19,  I775/  the  men  marched  in  response  to/  the 
Lexington  alarm." 

The  town  claims  the  first  free  town  library  in  the  world,  estab- 
lished in  1833,  said  to  be  the  first  supported  wholly  by  popu- 
lar taxation.  This  unique  claim  was  of  assistance  to  Andrew 
Carnegie  in  1902  when  he  was  looking  for  a  chance  to  give 
some  money  to  a  library,  for  in  recognition  of  it  he  gave  $5000, 
the  interest  of  which  is  devoted  to  the  purchase  of  books.  The 
brick  church  of  1825  is  from  designs  by  Bulfinch. 

Off  to  the  right  is  the  picturesque  Contoocook  with  factories 
lining  a  portion  of  its  banks.  On  a  ridge  to  the  east  of  the 
town,  where  are  now  the  three  residences  of  the  Cheney  estate, 
stood  the  old  town  meeting  house  of  1777. 

Further  east  are  the  summits  of  North  Pack  Monadnock 


R.    12    §  2.     WORCESTER  TO  CONCORD,  N.H.  379 

(2257  ft)  and  Pack  Monadnock  (2280  ft)  on  which  is  Miller 
Park,  the  oldest  in  New  Hampshire,  named  in  honor  of  General 
James  Miller,  a  distinguished  officer  of  the  War  of  1812  and 
a  native  of  Peterboro.  On  the  south  side  of  the  narrow  notch 
is  Temple  Mountain  (2081  ft). 

Peterboro  was  the  summer  home  of  Edward  MacDowell, 
"America's  greatest  composer,"  who  did  much  of  his  work 
in  a  log  cabin  here  in  the  woods.  His  farm,  Hillcrest,  a  mile 
west  of  the  village,  has  been  deeded  to  the  MacDowell  Memorial 
Association  by  his  widow.  The  aim  of  this  colony  is  to  allow 
its  members  to  lead  the  free  and  simple  life  which  proved  such 
an  inspiration  to  the  man  whose  name  it  bears.  It  is  not  con- 
fined to  any  one  of  the  arts,  and  musicians,  artists,  and  literary 
folk  enjoy  its  membership.  Each  artist  has  his  own  log  cabin 
studio,  and  must  be  engaged  in  creative  work.  This  is  prac- 
tically the  only  requirement.  Among  those  who  usually  spend 
their  summers  here  is  Arthur  Nevin,  the  composer.  In  August, 
IQIO,  a  memorial  pageant  to  MacDowell  was  given  under  the 
direction  of  Prof.  George  P.  Baker.  MacDowell's  own  music 
was  adapted  and  the  lyrics  were  written  by  Hermann  Hagedorn. 

Jeremiah  Smith,  Chief  Justice  and  Governor  of  New  Hamp- 
shire, was  born  here.  He  was  a  member  of  the  Continental 
Army,  and  his  son,  Judge  Jeremiah  Smith,  who  is  still  very 
active,  is  one  of  the  few  remaining  sons  of  a  Revolutionary 
soldier.  Others  of  prominence  who  have  lived  here  are  George 
Shattuck  Morison,  whom  Edward  Everett  Hale  called  the 
'King  of  American  Engineers,'  and  C.  F.  Pierce.  Present  resi- 
dents include  Robert  P.  Bass,  Ex-governor  of  the  State.  Prof. 
W.  H.  Schofield,  Prof.  J.  D.  M.  Ford,  and  Prof.  J.  B.  Brackett, 
all  of  Harvard,  are  summer  residents. 

The  first  settlers  were  Scotch  Presbyterians  from  Ireland.  They 
were  not  used  to  the  hardships  of  frontier  life  and  endured  great  suf- 
fering. The  nearest  grist  mill  was  at  Townsend,  twenty-five  miles 
away,  and  the  road  a  path  indicated  by  marked  trees.  An  unbroken 
forest  stood  between  here  and  Canada.  There  has  been  some  dispute 
as  to  the  exact  date  of  settlement,  but  reference  to  the  petition  for 
incorporation  seems  to  settle  that  point  and  possibly  explains  the 
divergence  of  opinion.  "  We  have  continued  increasing  since  the  year 
1739  except  sometimes  when  we  left  said  township  for  fear  of  being 
destroyed  by  the  enemy,  who  several  times  drove  us  from  our  settle- 
ments soon  after  we  began,  and  almost  ruined  many  of  us." 

Leaving  Peterboro,  the  route  crosses  the  Contoocook  and 
turns  left,  following  the  gray  markers  beside  the  river,  which 
it  crosses  at  North  Village.  Crossing  R.R.  at  Nahor  Station, 
the  road  traverses  the  "Swamp  Woods."  A  mile  and  a  half 
to  the  west  is  Halfmoon  Lake,  the  site  of  Dr.  Dudley  A.  Sar- 
gent's Camp,  for  all-the-year-round  physical  training. 


380  HANCOCK— CONCORD 

81.0     HANCOCK.     Alt  900  ft.     Pop  (twp)  642.     Hillsboro  Co. 

This  quiet  village,  named  for  John  Hancock,  is  the  center  of 
a  small  summer  colony. 

Most  of  the  towns  in  this  region  were  founded  during  the 
first  half  of  the  eighteenth  century  as  agricultural  communities. 
By  1850  the  decline  of  farming  and  the  migration  of  the  younger 
generation  to  the  cities  caused  a  decrease  of  population,  now 
partly  offset  by  the  development  of  manufacturing. 

From  Hancock  the  route  bears  to  the  right  at  the  band- 
stand and  follows  the  gray  markers  into  Bennington  township. 
Here  it  crosses  and  recrosses  the  Contoocook  river  and  the  R.R. 

87.0  ANTRIM.  Alt  608  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1235.  Hillsboro  Co.  Set- 
tled 1744.  Mfg.  cutlery,  cribs,  cradles,  and  caskets. 

This  fine  old  country  town  provides  for  human  requirements 
from  the  cradle  to  the  grave. 

It  was  incorporated  in  1777  and  named  for  a  town  in  the  north  of 
Ireland.  By  1820  it  was  a  prosperous  farming  community  with  a 
population  of  over  1300,  but  by  1870  the  population  had  sunk  to  900. 
The  development  of  manufacturing  has  brought  it  up  nearly  to  its  old 
level,  but  the  town  is  still  smaller  than  it  was  a  century  ago.  In  the 
region  round  about  there  are  a  number  of  glacial  boulders.  The  gran- 
ite boulder  on  Robbs  Mountain  is  35  feet  long  and  18  feet  high. 

94.5     HILLSBORO.     Alt   600  ft.     Pop    (twp)   2168.     Hillsboro    Co. 

Mfg.  woolens,  knit  goods,  and  lumber. 

Hillsboro  is  a  pleasant  village  with  an  active  Board  of  Trade 
and  a  little  manufacturing,  as  well  as  an  abundance  of  unde- 
veloped waterpower.  The  old  Pierce  Mansion  is  the  birthplace 
of  President  Franklin  Pierce  (1804-69). 

101.5  HENNIKER.  .  Alt  440  ft.  Pop  1395.  Merrimack  Co.  Mfg. 
bicycle  rims,  leatherboard,  toys,  and  boxes. 

The  village  lies  on  the  crossroads  of  the  Contoocook  route 
and  a  road  from  Manchester  to  Lake  Sunapee.  The  town  was 
incorporated  in  1768  and  bears  the  name  of  Sir  John  Henniker, 
a  London  merchant.  Proctor  Square  is  named  for  the  poetess 
Edna  Dean  Proctor,  a  native,  who  still  summers  here.  Mary 
Cheney  Beach,  the  composer,  was  also  born  here. 

The  route  follows  the  gray  markers  eastward  to 

110.5     HOPKINTON.  Pop  (twp)  1578.  Merrimack  Co.    Settled  1737. 

This  is  a  hamlet  in  the  midst  of  a  good  farming  country.  On 
its  handsome  main  street  is  the  homestead  of  Captain  Joshua 
Bailey,  who  marched  his  company  to  Bennington  Fight  in 
1777.  A  mile  west  on  Putney  Hill  is  an  ancient  burying 
ground  and  the  ruins  of  Putney  Fort,  a  Colonial  redoubt. 

Note.  The  Lake  Sunapee  road  from  Concord  via  Hopkin- 
ton,  Warner,  and  Newbury  turns  north  (R.  34,  note). 

The  route  follows  the  gray  markers  to 

118.0     CONCORD  (R.  34). 


R.  13.     ALBANY   to   BOSTON.  187.5  m. 

Via  PITTSFIELD  and  SPRINGFIELD. 

This  is  the  most  traveled  route  from  the  Hudson  and  the 
West  to  Boston  and  the  New  England  coast.  The  route  fol- 
lows the  course  of  the  turnpike  of  1800,  and  traverses  the 
Taconic  range,  attaining  a  maximum  elevation  of  1440  feet. 
From  Pittsfield  to  Lenox  and  Lee  it  passes  through  one  of  the 
most  interesting  portions  of  the  Berkshires,  thence  it  crosses 
the  eastern  Berkshire  highlands,  reaching  an  altitude  of  1400 
feet,  and  descends  the  valley  of  the  Westfield  river  to  Springfield, 
where  it  joins  Route  i  (p  121),  from  New  York  to  Boston. 

The  route  is  for  the  most  part  excellent  State  Highway,  in 
Massachusetts  marked  throughout  by  red  bands  on  telegraph 
poles  and  fence  posts  at  frequent  intervals. 

Two  variations  of  this  route  are  possible:  Route  5  (p  253) 
leads  from  Pittsfield  to  Williamstown  or  North  Adams,  there 
meeting  Route  15  (p  409),  which  leads  by  the  Mohawk  Trail 
through  Greenfield  and  Fitchburg  to  Boston;  the  second, 
Route  14,  leads  from  Pittsfield  to  Dalton  and  Cummington  to 
Northampton,  connecting  with  Route  10  (p  312)  and  joining 
Route  i  at  Springfield  and  Route  15  at  Greenfield. 

R.  13  §  1.     Albany  to  Pittsfield.  37.0  m. 

This  route  traverses  the  rolling  farming  region  east  of  the 
Hudson,  following  with  slight  variations  the  Albany  Turnpike 
of  1800.  As  it  ascends  into  the  foothills  of  the  Taconics  it 
passes  through  a  series  of  Shaker  settlements  and  crosses  the 
Taconic  range  at  an  altitude  of  1440  feet  and  thence  descends 
about  400  feet  to  the  broad  meadows  of  the  upper  Housatonic. 

The  route  leaves  Albany,  State  and  Pearl  Sts.,  left  on 
S.  Pearl  St.,  turn  left  on  S.  Ferry  St.  to  the  Rensselaer  toll  bridge 
( 10  to  15  cts.),  across  the  Hudson  to 

1.0  RENSSELAER.  Alt  80  ft.  Pop  11,210  (1915).  Rensselaer 
Co.  Mfg.  felt,  knit  goods,  leather,  and  machinery;  pork- 
packing  and  R.R.  repairs. 

Rensselaer  is  a  manufacturing  suburb  of  Albany  with  but 
little  of  interest.  It  takes  its  name  from  Killian  van  Rensse- 
laer, who  planted  a  colony  here  known  as  Rensselaerwyck. 
Fort  Cralo,  built  in  1642,  was  Washington's  headquarters  for 
a  time.  The  most  important  industry  is  the  felt  mill  of  F.  C. 
Huyck  &  Sons,  which  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world. 

Turn  left  from  Broadway  into  Columbia  St.,  leading  out  on 
the  highway.  On  either  side  are  rich  farm  lands,  with  brick 
buildings,  dating  often  from  the  time  of  the  Dutch  patroons. 
Passing  through  East  Greenbush  the  road  continues  to 

(381) 


382  SCHODACK   CENTER— PITTSFIELD 

7.5     SCHODACK  CENTER.    Alt  350  ft.    Pop   (twp)  4780.     Rens- 
selaer  Co.      Settled  1795. 

This  is  a  quiet  little  village  in  which  the  leading  enterprise  is  the 
manufacture  of  piano  actions  and  keys,  which  are  reported  to  be 
turned  out  in  larger  quantities  here  than  in  any  other  spot  on  earth. 

Four  miles  southwest,  by  the  Hudson,  is  the  little  village  of  Castleton, 
where  Hendrik  Hudson  landed  in  1609  and  noted  the  richness  of  the 
soil.  He  was  lavishly  feasted  on  roast  dog  by  the  Indians  and  in  turn 
entertained  them  on  fire-water  and  Dutch  tobacco,  "the  spirit  waters 
of  Paradise"  and  the  pipe  of  peace.  At  this  time  the  native  popula- 
tion was  large,  but  by  1638  they  were  more  than  decimated  by  famine 
and  the  ravages  of  smallpox,  spread  among  them  by  the  traders  as  on 
the  New  England  coast. 

Dutch  nomenclature  still  appears  in  the  names  of  the 
streams.  Muitzes  Kill,  or  Creek,  which  we  cross  after  leaving 
Schodack,  is  accounted  for  by  the  following  legend: 

"Muitzes  Kill  is  believed  to  commemorate  the  fact  that  over  one 
hundred  and  fifty  years  ago  a  female  who  was  crossing  the  stream, 
attired  as  was  the  custom  of  the  day  in  a  large  Dutch  cap  or  hat,  was 
unfortunate  enough  to  have  the  valued  article  carried  by  the  sportive 
wind  into  the  stream.  As  the  distracted  woman  saw  her  hat  floating 
away  she  cried  out  in  frantic  tones,  'De  muts  is  in  de  kil!  de  muts  is 
in  de  kil!'  and  hence  the  name  of  the  stream  to  this  day." 

The  road  climbs  very  gradually  toward  the  distant  Taconic 
range  through  the  hamlet  of 

13.0  NASSAU.  Alt  400  ft.  Pop  597  (1915).  Rensselaer  Co. 
Settled  1760.  Mfg.  piano  actions. 

The  old  brick  houses  and  Dutch  names  still  bear  evidence 
of  Dutch  Colonial  times,  when  the  Knickerbocker  family 
figured  largely  in  the  country  about  here. 

The  route  continues  up  the  beautiful  Lebanon  Valley  through 
the  hamlets  of  Brainard,  West  Lebanon,  and  Lebanon  Center  to 

26.0  NEW  LEBANON.  Alt  750  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1378.  Columbia 
Co.  Settled  1785.  Mfg.  pharmaceutical  preparations. 

New  Lebanon's  chief  claim  to  national  fame  is  as  the  birth- 
place of  Samuel  J.  Tilden,  the  statesman  who  became  famous 
as  the  successful  opponent  of  the  Tweed  Ring  and  later  as  the 
unsuccessful  candidate  for  the  Presidency  in  1876,  when  the 
election  was  so  close  as  to  require  the  creation  of  the  Electoral 
Commission  by  special  Act  of  Congress.  He  lies  buried  in  the 
cemetery  at  the  foot  of  the  hills.  The  Tilden  residence  is  on 
the  site  of  Jones's  Tavern,  a  famous  inn  in  coaching  days. 
The  family  still  have  an  interest  in  the  Tilden  Chemical  Com- 
pany, manufacturing  essences  and  extracts.  This  industry 
originated  among  the  Shakers,  whose  herb  collectors  were 
formerly  famous  for  the  medicines  and  drafts  which  they 
prepared.  On  the  mountainside  in  full  view  from  all  parts  of 
the  valley  is  the  famous  Shaker  Community,  who  give  a  hos- 
pitable welcome  to  visitors. 


R.   13  §   I.     ALBANY   TO    PITTSFIELD  383 

The  settlement  was  founded  by  'Mother'  Ann  Lee,  an  English 
immigrant,  in  1785.  The  church  then  built  is  still  standing.  This 
quaint  community  holds  to-  the  principle  that  property  should  be 
owned  in  common  and  that  celibacy  is  the  highest  form  of  life,  while 
the  marriage  state  is  a  distinct  falling  from  grace.  Hence  it  has  come 
about  that  their  numbers  have  diminished  for  some  time  past,  although 
they  still  form  a  fairly  large  and  prosperous  body,  recruiting  their 
numbers  by  adoption.  They  busy  themselves  with  weaving,  knitting, 
and  other  household  crafts  in  accordance  with  the  instructions  of  their 
founder;  their  products  have  a  wide  reputation. 

Two  miles  to  the  north  at  the  foot  of  the  Lebanon  ridge  is  the  vil- 
lage of  Lebanon  Springs,  where  the  mineral  waters  were  used  by  the 
Indians  for  scores  of  years  before  the  white  men  came.  In  1800  a 
certain  Captain  Hitchcock  benefited  by  them  in  health  and  in  pocket 
and  instituted  the  nucleus  of  the  present  Columbia  Hall  and  its  baths. 
On  the  old  treasured  hotel  register  are  found  the  names  of  Adams, 
Van  Buren,  Lafayette,  Webster,  Longfellow,  Willis,  Gallatin,  and 
other  statesmen  and  literary  lights  of  the  early  nineteenth  century. 

The  road  north  through  Lebanon  Springs  leads  to  Williams- 
town  across  the  Taconic  range. 

Skirting  the  Knob  (1602  ft)  rising  abruptly  to  the  south,  the 
road  commences  to  climb  the  Taconics.  This  is  an  unusually 
long  ascent,  but  the  grade  is  gentle.  This  notch  is  the  gateway 
to  the  Berkshires.  At  the  summit,  where  we  reach  an  eleva- 
tion of  nearly  1500  feet,  there  is  a  magnificent  prospect  down 
the  Lebanon  or  Wyomanock  valley,  the  Catskills  in  the  back- 
ground to  the  southwest  and  the  Adirondacks  on  the  horizon 
to  the  northwest.  The  boundary  between  New  York  and 
Massachusetts  is  almost  at  the  summit  of  the  pass,  with  Perry 
Peak  (2060  ft)  on  the  right.  Eastward  stretches  a  fertile 
plateau  surrounded  by  bold  hills  and  dotted  with  placid  vil- 
lages and  well-kept  estates. 

The  route,  indicated  from  the  Massachusetts  line  by  the  red 
bands  on  poles  and  posts,  descends  for  a  mile  or  two  and  then 
passes  through  the  Shaker  village  of  West  Pittsfield. 

Here  rumor  has  it  that  the  devil  was  caught  unawares  one  day  and 
run  to  earth  by  the  Shakers,  who  slew  him,  as  they  fondly  hoped  for- 
ever and  aye,  leaving  him  buried  in  the  hollow  of  the  hills. 

The  long  crest  to  the  southwest,  some  three  miles  from  the 
village,  is  variously  named:  the  northern  end  is  Yokun  Seat, 
named  for  a  chief  of  the  local  tribe;  the  central  height  is  Osce- 
ola  Mountain  (2120  ft);  and  the  furthermost  point  is  Lenox 
Mountain.  Just  beyond  it,  to  the  south,  is  West  Stockbridge 
Mountain.  The  route  follows  Parker  Ave.  and  West  St.  into 

37.0  PITTSFIELD.  Alt  1037  ft.  Pop.  32,121  (1910),  39,607  (1915), 
including  many  Italians,  Russians,  and  Poles.  County-seat 
of  Berkshire  Co.  Settled  1743.  Indian  name  Pontoosuc, 
"falls  on  the  brook."  Mfg.  electrical  machinery,  stationery, 
woolen  and  worsted  goods,  knit  goods,  spool  silk.  Value  of 
Product  (1913),  $23,919,000;  Payroll,  $6,117,000. 
The  commercial  center  of  Berkshire  County,  Pittsfield  is 


384  PITTSFIELD 

both  an  industrial  city  and  a  summer  resort  and  a  place  of  resi- 
dence. Situated  in  the  heart  of  the  beautiful  Berkshire  hills, 
surrounded  by  the  broad  Pontoosuc  meadows  of  the  upper 
Housatonic  at  an  elevation  of  about  1000  feet,  its  beauty  of 
position  invites  residence,  while  the  two  branches  of  the  Hou- 
satonic which  flow  on  either  side  of  the  city  provide  power  for 
its  industries.  Pittsfield  seems  to  have  solved  the  problem  of 
"How  to  be  Busy  yet  Beautiful,"  as  the  Board  of  Trade  puts 
it.  In  the  first  decade  of  this  century  its  population  increased 
48  per  cent,  its  taxable  valuation,  64  per  cent,  and  the  capital 
invested  in  manufacturing,  171  per  cent.  The  industrial  dis- 
trict lies  mainly  to  the  north  of  the  center,  while  the  residential 
region  looks  southward  down  the  valley  toward  Lenox.  Pitts- 
field  is  the  center  of  a  trolley  system  extending  through  the 
Housatonic  valley  from  Bennington,  Vt.,  to  Canaan,  Conn. 
During  the  season  two  through  trains  of  parlor  cars  run  from 
Great  Barrington  to  Bennington,  Vt.,  daily  and  return. 

All  routes  meet  at  Park  Square  in  the  center  of  the  city, 
about  which  are  clustered  most  of  the  places  of  interest.  In 
the  small  Park,  a  sun-dial  marks  the  -site  of  the  Berkshire  Elm, 
the  wonder  of  all  beholders,  said  to  have  been  over  300  years 
old  and  over  120  feet  high  before  it  died  in  1861.  The  first 
agricultural  fair  in  America  was  held  beneath  its  shade  in  1809, 
and  here  in  1825  Lafayette  was  feted.  In  the  Square  stands 
a  statue,  by  Launt  Thompson,  of  "The  Massachusetts  Color 
Bearer,"  a  replica  of  which  is  at  Gettysburg.  The  First 
Church,  north  of  the  Square,  stands  on  the  site  of  the  old 
meeting  house,  where  for  forty-six  years  preached  'Fighting 
Parson  Allen,'  fire-eating  chaplain  of  the  Berkshire  troops  at 
Bennington  in  August,  1777,  where  he  prayed  and  shot  with 
equal  zest.  The  Berkshire  Athenaeum  contains  a  valuable  col- 
lection of  books,  whose  thorough  indexing  and  full  and  home-like 
hospitality  attract  students  from  places  as  remote  as  Boston, 
Providence,  and  Chicago.  The  Museum  of  Natural  History 
and  Art,  presented  to  the  town  by  Zenas  Crane,  stands  on  the 
site  of  Easton's  Tavern,  where  the  capture  of  Ticonderoga  was 
planned.  Here  is  preserved  the  desk  on  which  Hawthorne 
wrote  "The  House  of  Seven  Gables"  while  living  in  the  "little 
red  cottage"  at  Lenox;  the  original  "One  Hoss  Shay"  which 
inspired  the  poem  of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes ;  the  sledge  which 
carried  Lieutenant  Peary  to  the  North  Pole;  and  a  collection 
of  paintings,  statuary,  antiquities,  and  natural  history. 

At  East  and  Appleton  Sts.  is  Elm  Knoll,  now  the  Plunkett 
homestead. 

"Somewhat  back  from  the  village  street 
Stands  the  old-fashioned  country-seat. 
Across  its  antique  portico 


R.   13   §   I.     ALBANY   TO   PITTSFIELD  385 

Tall  poplar  trees  their  shadows  throw; 
And  from  its  station  in  the  hall 
An  ancient  timepiece  says  to  all, — 

Forever — never ! 

Never — forever! " 

Though  an  old  clock  still  stands  on  the  stairs,  the  original  long 
ago  was  taken  to  Boston.     At  the  time  of  writing  the  poem, 
this  was  known  as  the  Gold  house,  and  was  the  home  of  Mrs. 
Longfellow's  maternal  grandfather,  Thomas  Gold,  a  leading 
lawyer  and  a  man  of  broad  influence.     It  was  during  his  time 
"In  that  mansion,  used  to  be 
Free-hearted  Hospitality." 

While  visiting  here  on  his  wedding  journey  in  1843  the  idea 
of  the  poem  was  suggested  to  Longfellow,  although  it  was  not 
written  until  two  years  later  when  at  home  in  Cambridge.  In 
his  diary  under  date  of  Nov.  12, 1845,  appears  this  note:  "Began 
a  poem  on  a  clock  with  the  words  'Forever,  never'  as  the 
burden;  suggested  by  the  words  of  Bridaine,  the  old  French 
missionary,  who  said  of  eternity — 'C'est  une  pendule  dont  le 
balancier  dit  et  redit  sans  cesse  ces  deux  mots  seulement  dans  le 
silence  des  tombeaux, — Toujours,  jamais!  Jamais,  toujours!'" 
The  Rectory  of  St.  Stephen's,  a  fine  Colonial  mansion  of 
1773,  was  left  to  the  parish  on  condition  that  it  should  always 
be  inhabited  by  gentlefolk.  There  are  many  heirlooms  treas- 
ured here,  and  an  Inness  portrait  of  Susan  Gouverneur. 
'  Onota  Lake,  two  miles  to  the  northwest  of  the  center  of 
Pittsfield,  is  reached  by  Peck's  Road. 

Its  Indian  name  signifies  "white  deer,"  and  a  legend  lingers  of  a  white 
deer,  worshiped  by  the  Mohegan  Indians  who  frequented  the  shores 
of  the  lake,  the  death  of  which  was  believed  by  them  to  presage  the 
extinction  of  their  tribe.  In  the  first  French-Indian  War,  Montal- 
bert,  a  French  officer,  sent  to  incite  the  Housatonic  Indians  against  the 
English,  bribed  Wando,  a  drunken  Indian,  to  kill  the  deer  as  a  trophy 
for  King  Louis.  Its  death  brought  disaster,  for  the  Frenchman  was 
himself  slain  before  reaching  Montreal,  and  the  Indians  were  soon 
after  driven  out  of  the  country. 

Pontoosuc  Lake,  called  by  the  Indians  Skoonkeek  and 
Moonkeek,  "over  the  mountain,"  a  mile  north,  is  the  source  of 
the  west  branch  of  the  Housatonic.  Along  its  shores  are 
many  summer  cottages.  In  the  Park  between  these  lakes  is 
Balance  Rock,  a  pyramidal  limestone  boulder  of  165  tons, 
standing  firmly  on  its  apex  as  it  was  left  by  the  glaciers  which 
transported  it  from  the  north.  Near  it  is  Cross  Rock,  with  a 
curious  cruciform  crevice,  and  Split  Rock,  a  great  boulder  cleft 
by  the  persistent  growth  of  a  birch  tree.  From  this  park  there 
is  a  glorious  view  of  the  northern  Berkshires  and  the  Taconics, 
with  Constitution  Hill  in  the  foreground.  Against  the  north- 
ern horizon  is  Greylock  (3505  ft),  sixteen  miles  away,  the 
highest  mountain  in  the  State. 


386  PITTSFIELD 

In  the  vicinity  of  Pittsfield  are  many  beautiful  modern  sum- 
mer estates,  notably  Tor  Court,  the  $400,000  residence  of 
Warren  M.  Salisbury  of  Chicago.  The  Maplewood  Hotel  is 
an  historic  institution.  Here  was  built  in  1829  the  Gymna- 
sium, a  school  for  young  men.  In  1841  it  became  the  Pittsfield 
Young  Women's  Institute.  In  1857  the  Rev.  C.  V.  Spear 
maintained  here  the  Maplewood  Institute,  a  school  for  girls, 
which  attained  a  national  reputation.  Later  it  became  the 
property  of  Oberlin  College.  Since  1891  it  has  been  a  hotel. 

"All  of  the  present  town  of  Pittsfield,  except  one  thousand  acres, 
was  the  property  of  my  great-grandfather,  who  owned  a  section  six 
miles  square,  bought  of  the  Province."  So  writes  Oliver  Wendell 
Holmes  about  Jacob  Wendell,  for  whom  the  tentative  settlement  of 
I73S~43  was  called  Wendell's  Town  as  well  as  Boston  Plantation. 
In  1761  the  present  name  was  adopted  in  honor  of  William  Pitt  the 
elder,  England's  liberal  statesman  who  foresaw  America's  great  future. 
In  1790  some  of  the  Lebanon  Shakers  added  their  frugal  tradition  to 
the  growing  center.  The  textile  industry  was  established  here  in  1804 
when  Scholfield  and  Rigby  smuggled  English  looms  hither,  after  a 
brief  sojourn  in  Byfield  (R.  36),  and  made  the  first  American  broad- 
cloth. The  impetus  given  by  the  trade  restriction  of  the  War  of  1812 
led  them  to  set  up  power  looms,  on  which  was  woven  President  Madi- 
son's inaugural  suit.  The  waters  of  the  Housatonic  thus  commenced 
their  manufacturing  labors,  and  now  before  reaching  the  sea  they  drive 
502  wheels  to  the  tune  of  45,000  h.p. 

Today  Pittsfield  is  the  home  of  more  than  100  manufacturing  es- 
tablishments, some  of  which  employ  from  1000  to  5000  hands.  Chief 
among  them  is  the  Pittsfield  plant  of  the  General  Electric  Company, 
which  covers  78  acres.  It  represents  an  investment  of  more  than 
$30,000,000  and  employs  from  6000  to  7000  with  an  annual  payroll 
exceeding  $4,000,000.  Its  yearly  output,  valued  at  more  than 
$16,000,000,  includes  75  per  cent  of  all  the  electric  fans  manufactured 
in  this  country,  and  more  than  half  a  million  electric  flatirons  have 
been  made  here.  The  Eaton,  Crane  &  Pike  Company  is  the  largest  of 
the  world's  manufacturers  of  fine  stationery,  employing  forty  sales- 
men and  1000  hands,  with  a  daily  output  of  two  carloads.  At  the 
Crane  "Government  Mill"  is  made  the  "money  paper"  in  which  are 
imbedded  colored  silk  fibers,  used  for  bank  notes  and  bonds.  Since 
1879  this  company  has  enjoyed  the  monopoly  of  supplying  the  U.S. 
Bureau  of  Engraving  with  the  paper  for  the  300,000,000  pieces  of 
paper  money  now  issued  yearly.  The  E.  D.  Jones  Company  manu- 
factures machinery  for  paper  and  pulp  mills  which  goes  to  all  countries 
where  paper  is  made.  The  Pontoosuc  Woolen  Company,  established 
in  1826,  manufactures  dress  goods,  rugs,  and  blankets.  The  Russell 
Manufacturing  Company,  established  in  1837,  The  Berkshire  Woolen 
&  Worsted  Company,  the  Tacpnic  Mills,  and  the  Tillotson  Manu- 
facturing Company  produce  ladies'  cloakings,  kerseys,  and  cassimeres. 
The  Tel-Electric  Piano  Player  Company  and  the  Triumph  Voting 
Machine  Company  have  their  plants  here. 

R.  13  §  2.     Pittsfield  to  Springfield.  56.0  m. 

Via  LENOX,  LEE,  and  CHESTER. 

This  section  of  the  route  from  Albany  to  Boston  traverses 
the  richest  portions  of  Berkshire  County.  (For  continuation 


R.    13   §  2.     PITTSFIELD   TO   SPRINGFIELD  387 

of  the  route  through  the  Housatonic  valley  north  of  Pittsfield 
and  south  of  Lenox,  see  Route  5,  p  253.)  Leaving  the  valley  of 
the  Housatonic  at  East  Lee,  it  crosses  the  eastern  Berkshires, 
reaching  a  maximum  altitude  of  1800  feet  near  West  Becket, 
and  follows  down  the  narrow  valleys  of  the  Westfield  river. 

On  Holmes  Road,  the  old  highway  to  Lenox,  are  several 
places  of  special  interest.  Holmesdale,  the  residence  of  Oliver 
Wendell  Holmes,  is  just  beyond  a  row  of  poplars  crowning  a 
knoll  on  the  left.  It  stands  on  the  site  of  the  original  home- 
stead of  Jacob  Wendell,  the  early  settler.  'The  Autocrat  of 
the  Breakfast  Table'  tells  us  of  the  "seven  blessed  summers" 
passed  here  on  the  ancestral  acres  which  stood  in  his  memory 
"like  the  seven  golden  candlesticks  in  the  beatific  vision  of 
the  holy  dreamer."  The  sturdy  pine  where  the  'Autocrat' 
loved  to  rest  in  the  seven  summers  of  his  boyhood  here,  as 
well  as  in  later  years,  still  stands  in  the  Canoe  Meadows  near 
the  house.  His  fondness  for  trees  led  him  to  plant  seven 
hundred  according  to  his  own  statement.  South  Mountain, 
west  of  Holmesdale,  beyond  the  grounds  of  the  Country 
Club,  is  the  scene  of  "Elsie  Venner."  The  view  from  its 
northern  slope,  Snake  Hill,  is  very  fine. 

The  direct  route  to  Lenox  follows  South  St.,  with  red  mark- 
ers, passing  the  grounds  of  the  Country  Club.  The  central 
portion  of  the  club  house  was  built  in  1785  by  Henry  Van 
Schaack,  postmaster  of  Albany,  whose  home  it  was  till  1807. 
Elkanah  Watson,  a  prominent  farmer  and  merchant,  lived 
here  from  1807  to  1816,  while  he  introduced  merino  sheep  into 
the  region  and  instituted  the  Berkshire  Agricultural  Society. 
After  his  day  the  house  was  named  Broad  Hall,  by  Major 
Melville,  uncle  of  Herman,  the  South  Sea  traveler  and  novel- 
ist. It  later  acquired  widespread  fame  as  a  boarding  house,  and 
lodged  Longfellow,  Hawthorne,  Holmes,  and  other  literary  folk. 
In  the  cellar  is  a  dungeon  where  runaway  slaves  traveling  on  the 
'Underground  Railway'  were  hidden.  A  quarter  of  a  mile 
beyond,  on  the  same  side  of  the  road,  is  Arrowhead,  the  home 
of  Herman  Melville,  the  chronicler  of  South  Sea  adventure. 

To  the  east  are  the  Canoe  Meadows  of  the  Housatonic, 
beloved  of  the  Indians,  and  above  them  the  bluffs  of  October 
Mountain,  stocked  by  the  late  William  C.  Whitney  with  buf- 
falo, moose,  elk,  and  deer.  To  the  west  is  the  triple  crest  of 
Yokun  Seat,  Osceola,  and  Lenox  Mountain.  Through  the  hills 
innumerable  trails  are  being  blazed  and  cared  for  by  the  Boy 
Scouts.  At  the  foot  of  the  eastern  slope  of  Yokun  Seat  is 
Ferncroft  with  its  beautiful  gardens,  the  home  of  Thomas 
Shields  Clarke.  Southward  where  the  valley  opens  is  Lenox 
on  a  saddlebacked  ridge. 


388  LENOX 

6.0     LENOX.     Alt   1270  ft.     Pop    (twp)    3060   (1910),  3242   (1915). 
Berkshire  Co.     Settled  1750. 

Lenox  has  long  been  the  autumnal  resort  of  fashion,  attract- 
ing the  wealthy  from  Washington,  Boston,  Philadelphia, 
Newport,  and  New  York,  especially  after  the  close  of  the 
Newport  season.  In  recent  years  the  season  has  been  pro- 
longed, so  that  it  is  now  to  a  considerable  extent  a  residential 
region  in  which  many  linger  on  their  great  estates  into  the 
winter  season.  About  Lenox  lies  some  of  the  most  beautiful 
country  of  the  Berkshires,  now  nearly  all  taken  up  by  estates. 
The  magnificent  estates  and  sumptuous  villas  exhibit  some  of 
the  finest  achievements  in  landscape-gardening  and  country 
house  architecture.  These,  however,  are  too  thoroughly  aris- 
tocratic to  be  planned  for  outward  show,  and  most  of  them  are 
so  secluded  within  their  grounds  as  to  be  visible  unfortunately 
only  from  distant  points  of  view.  Usually,  the  unobtrusive 
entrances  are  marked  by  curt  and  repellent  signs  to  guard 
against  inconsiderate  intrusion, — "No  admittance  except  to 
guests,"  "Keep  out,"  etc.  Lenox  as  the  home  of  the  Sedg- 
wicks,  Fanny  Kemble,  Beecher,  Hawthorne,  Mark  Hopkins 
and  other  intellectuals  of  the  middle  nineteenth  century  is 
rich  in  literary  association.  Among  the  surrounding  hills, 
lakes,  and  charming  intervales  are  innumerable  lovely  walks 
and  drives.  The  drive  through  the  Bishop  woods  is  celebrated. 

Before  the  advent  of  the  automobile,  Lenox  was  the  center 
of  a  genuine  appreciation  of  good  horses.  The  Hunt  and  the 
Show,  as  well  as  the  Races,  were  the  natural  outcome  of  a  love 
for  riding  and  driving  in  a  country  admirably  suited  to  those 
pastimes.  Motoring  has  almost  banished  the  horse  here  as 
elsewhere,  although  a  few  still  take  the  horses  out  on  the  by- 
ways and  lanes.  Life  is  simpler  here  than  in  Newport.  The 
distinctive  pastimes  are  gardening  and  archery  for  the  older 
set  and  those  who  are  bored  by  the  perennial  golf  and  tennis, 
with  bob-sledding  over  the  hills  and  curling  on  the  ponds  for 
the  winter  colony  that  even  lingers  until  the  New  Year. 

The  Aspinwall,  a  modern  hotel  located  on  the  former  Aspin- 
wall  Woolsey  property  of  550  acres,  is  on  the  right  of  Main  St. 
at  the  northern  entrance  to  the  village,  which  it  overlooks 
from  a  commanding  eminence.  The  magnificent  view  from  the 
piazza  extends  from  Grey  lock,  in  the  north,  westward  along 
the  Taconics  to  Monument  Mountain  and  The  Dome  in  the 
south.  Three  miles  southwest  is  Stockbridge  Bowl,  or  Lake 
Makheenac,  out  of  which  rises  Bald  Head,  the  site  of  many 
'places,'  chief  among  which  is  Shadowbrook,  the  goo-acre 
Anson  Phelps  Stokes  estate,  now  owned  by  Spencer  Shotter. 
Its  semi-baronial  mansion  is  the  most  extensive  and  elaborate 


R.    13   §  2.     PITTSFIELD   TO   SPRINGFIELD 


389 


country  house  in  New  England.  Across  the  Bowl  from  Bald 
Head  is  Rattlesnake  Hill;  on  the  knoll  this  side  of  it  is  Allen 
Winden,  the  residence  of  Charles  Lanier,  president  of  two 
railways  and  director  of  several  others.  Adjoining  is  Elm 
Court,  the  typically  American  summer  villa  of  the  late  William 
D.  Sloane,  which  has  a  splendid  view  to  the  south.  Beyond 
the  Bowl  is  the  Lily  Pond,  on  the  far  side  of  which  is  Wheat- 
leigh,  the  property  of  Mr.  Henry  H.  Cook;  Interlaken,  the 
Bishop  place  with  noted  woods,  is  between  the  ponds  and 
nearer  Rattlesnake  Hill.  Away  to  the  southeast  is  Laurel 
Lake,  on  the  western  border  of  which  is  The  Mount,  built  by 
Mrs.  Edith  Wharton,  who  lived  there  for 
several  years,  in  reproduction  of  Beton, 
the  country  seat  of  Lord  Brownlow. 

North  of  The  Mount,  on  Kemble  St., 
is  The  Perch,  the  home  of  Fanny  Kemble, 
overlooking  Laurel  Lake;  opposite  are 
Mr.  Giraud  Foster's  villa,  Bellefontaine, 
a  French  Renaissance  mansion,  and  Cort- 
landt  Field  Bishop's  Maplehurst.  South 
of  the  Lake  is  Erskine  Park,  the  estate 
of  the  late  George  Westinghouse,  now 
the  property  of  Mrs.  Alfred  Vanderbilt. 
It  extends  into  Lee  township,  with  miles 
of  walks  and  drives  of  powdered  white 
marble,  and  an  artificial  lake  with  several 
fountains.  On  the  northeastern  shore 
are  the  Goelet  and  Sargent  places;  above 
them  on  Beecher  Hill  is  Wyndhurst,  the 
late  John  Sloane's  battlemented  Tudor 
mansion,  on  the  site  of  Henry  Ward 
Beecher's  home  of  1853.  Its  landscape 
setting  is  largely  the  design  of  Charles 
Eliot  and  the  elder  Olmsted.  Blantyre, 
now  the  residence  of  Robert  W.  Paterson, 
stands  next  to  Wyndhurst.  Blantyre  contains  a  notable  col- 
lection of  paintings. 

Beneath  the  bluff,  in  the  middle  distance  to  the  west,  are  the 
links  of  the  Lenox  Golf  Club  with  W.  A.  Slater's  place,  Home 
Farm,  and  the  late  John  E.  Parsons'  Stoneover  nearby.  Half- 
way down  the  hill  is  the  late  Morris  K.  Jesup's  Belvoir  Terrace, 
and  Under  Ledge,  the  Joseph  W.  Burden  country  home. 
Ventfort  Hall,  the  Elizabethan  mansion  of  Mr.  George  H. 
Morgan,  and  Pine  Croft,  the  summer  residence  of  F.  A.  Scher- 
merhorn,  lie  eastward,  but  almost  in  the  heart  of  the  village, 
close  to  the  campanile  of  Trinity  Church.  The  Poplars  was 


Copr.  Detroit  Pub.  Co. 
THE   MEETING   HOUSE 


390  LENOX 

for  one  season  occupied  by  the  former  Austrian  ambassador, 
Constantine  Dumba. 

The  old  Lenox  meeting  house  (1805)  on  the  hilltop  stands 
with  its  stately  white  tower  among  the  foliage,  commanding 
an  extended  view.  The  churchyard's  slate  tombstones  with 
quaintly  curving  cherubim  bear  characteristic  oldtime  senti- 
ments and  warnings,  worthy  of  pause  to  read.  Dr.  Shepard, 
its  first  minister,  lies  beneath  the  well-chosen  text,  "Remember 
the  words  which  I  spoke  unto  you  while  I  was  yet  with  you." 
The  clock  in  the  church  was  given  by  Fanny  Kemble  from  the 
proceeds  of  a  single  night's  reading. 

Opposite  Cliffwood  St.  is  the  handsome  Georgian  home  of 
Lenox  Academy,  dating  from  1803,  formerly  a  famous  clas- 
sical school,  and  now  a  private  school  for  small  children. 
Further  down  the  hill  is  Sedgwick  Hall,  founded  in  1797,  once 
the  Court  House  and  now  the  Public  Library.  Next  door  is 
the  Curtis  House,  a  tavern  of  coaching  days,  lately  remodeled. 
Opposite  is  the  Town  Hall,  and  in  Monument  Square  is  a 
memorial  to  Major-general  John  Paterson,  jurist  and  soldier 
of  the  Revolution.  Opposite  Trinity  Church,  which  contains 
a  memorial  window  to  President  Chester  A.  Arthur,  on  Kemble 
St.,  formerly  stood  the  modest  house  among  the  pines  where 
Catharine  Sedgwick,  the  first  of  American  women  novelists,  and 
her  brother  Charles  entertained  "a  jungle  of  literary  lions," 
including  Lowell,  Holmes,  Sumner,  Channing,  and  Bryant,  as 
well  as  their  neighbors,  the  Fields,  Hawthorne,  Beecher,  and 
Fanny  Kemble.  Charlotte  Cushman  spent  her  last  summer 
in  a  cottage  on  West  St.,  no  longer  standing.  Beyond,  over- 
looking the  Stockbridge  Bowl  is  Highwood,  the  oldest  of  the 
fashionable  estates,  where  Jenny  Lind,  'the  Swedish  Night- 
ingale,' was  married;  and  below,  on  Hawthorne  Road,  is  the 
site  of  "the  little  red  house"  where  Hawthorne  wrote  "The 
House  of  the  Seven  Gables"  and  "The  Wonder  Book"  during 
his  eighteen  months'  sojourn  here.  The  "Shadow  Brook"  of 
the  latter  volume  flows  nearby  in  the  great  estate  named  after  it. 
West  of  Lenox  Mountain  in  the  township  of  Richmond  are 
some  unique  boulder  trains  which  cross  from  Fry's  Hill  and 
Perry  Peak  in  the  Taconics  over  Merriman's  Mount  almost  to 
the  Stockbridge  Bowl;  these  and  the  crinoids  and  other  fossils 
further  west,  in  Canaan,  N.Y.,  are  the  delight  of  geologists, 
while  literary  people  drive  through  to  Canaan  to  visit  Queechy, 
the  pretty  lake  where  Susan  Warner  lived  and  wrote 
"Queechy"  and  "The  Wide,  Wide  World,"  second  only  to 
"Uncle  Tom's  Cabin,"  in  the  estimate  of  fifty  years  ago. 

Lenox  was  settled  in  1750  and  named  Richmond  and  then  Lenox  in 
honor  of  Sir  Charles  Lenox,  third  Duke  of  Richmond,  a  friend  of  the 


R.   13   §   2.     PITTSFIELD  TO  SPRINGFIELD  391 

Colonies  in  the  Revolutionary  days.  The  land  along  Walker  St.  was 
then  the  property  of  Jonathan  Edwards,  the  theologian,  who  lived 
at  Stockbridge.  It  soon  became  the  shire  town,  a  wellspring  of  patriot- 
ism in  the  Revolution,  and  was  the  country  seat  and  business  center 
until  1868,  when  the  court  was  moved  to  Pittsfield.  Its  industries 
included  tanneries,  glass  works,  and  an  iron  foundry  and  mine,  whose 
underground  galleries  underlie  a  part  of  Lenox  Furnace.  The  lit- 
erary era  began  in  1821  with  the  advent  of  Catharine  Sedgwick.  The 
most  picturesque  figure  in  that  sedate  period  was  Fanny  Kemble,  the 
actress  and  Shakespearian  reader,  niece  of  the  great  Mrs.  Siddons  and 
grandmother  of  Owen  VVister.  She  shocked  the  neighborhood  by  her 
vivacious  unconventionality,  dashing  through  the  lanes  astride  of  her 
big  black  horse,  with  'Julian  the  Apostate,'  as  she  nicknamed  Haw- 
thorne's son,  on  the  pommel.  Kemble  Street,  named  in  her  honor, 
is  proof  of  the  respect  and  affection  her  generous  nature  inspired. 

In  those  days,  before  wealth  had  adorned  the  hills,  Lenox  was  some- 
times criticised;  even  Catharine  Sedgwick  at  first  described  it  as  "A 
bare  and  ugly  little  village,  dismally  bleak  and  uncouth."  Hawthorne 
bursts  out:  "This  is  a  horrible,  horrible,  most  hor-ri-ble  climate,  one 
knows  not  for  ten  minutes  together,  whether  he  is  too  cool  or  too  warm, 
but  he  is  always  the  one  or  the  other,  and  the  constant  result  is  a 
miserable  disturbance  of  the  system.  I  detest  it!  I  detest  it!!  I 
detest  it!!!  I  hate  Berkshire  with  my  whole  soul  and  would  joyfully 
see  its  mountains  laid  flat."  Matthew  Arnold,  the  eminent  English 
critic,  condemned  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  damned  the  American 
elm  with  faint  praise,  and  at  last  overcame  his  British  conservatism, 
with  "I  see  at  last  what  an  American  autumn  which  they  praise  so  is, 
and  it  deserves  the  praise  given  it.  ...  We  were  perpetually  stopping 
the  carriage  in  the  woods  through  which  we  drove,  the  flowers  were 
so  attractive.  You  have  no  notion  how  beautiful  the  asters  are." 

However,  Lenox  was  so  appreciated  by  the  literary  set  as  to  draw 
thither  enough  wealth  to  set  up  a  few  'places'  such  as  were  soon  to  be 
the  vogue.  The  removal  of  the  court  house  to  Pittsfield  in  1868,  be- 
moaned for  the  moment  as  a  financial  calamity,  marks  the  beginning  of 
the  social  boom.  Land  fetched  fancy  prices  for  the  next  twenty  years, 
often  from  $1000  to  $3500  an  acre,  while  the  site  of  Trinity  Church, 
parish  house  and  rectory,  about  half  an  acre,  cost  in  all,  $19,900! 
Most  of  the  old  Lenox  families  sold  their  farms  and  migrated;  but  the 
real  worth  of  the  fertile  valley  is  still  proved  by  one  or  two  tracts  of 
tillage  that  produce  their  forty  bushels  of  seed  wheat  per  acre,  selling 
for  $2.50  a  bushel.  Yet  the  caprice  of  fashion  is  mainly  responsible 
for  the  fact  that  Berkshire  land  varies  from  $20,000  to  $1.00  an  acre. 

From  Lenox,  a  splendid  avenue  by  Laurel  Lake  follows 
red  markers  direct  to  Lee. 

Note.  A  detour  by  way  of  Stockbridge  may  be  made:  Three 
roads  from  Lenox  lead  thither:  Kemble  St.,  past  Trinity 
Church,  The  Perch,  and  the  Foster  place,  round  the  base  of 
the  knoll, — indicated  by  blue  markers:  the  old  highway,  down 
'Court -house  Hill'  and  over  the  knoll,  past  the  Lanier,  Sloane, 
and  Bishop  places;  and  the  longer  route  by  way  of  West  St. 
and  the  Hawthorne  Road  by  the  Stockbridge  Bowl  past  the 
Cooke  place  to  Prospect  Hill,  from  which  there  is  a  splendid 
view  of  Stockbridge  and  the  meandering  river  in  the  plain 
below;  close  at  hand  is  Naumkeag,  the  Hon.  Joseph  H. 
Choate's  estate.  Beyond  the  village  are  the  abrupt  heights 


392  LENOX— EAST  LEE 

of  Bear,  Monument,  and  Tom  Ball  Mountains,  from  east  to 
west,  "Monument  Mountain,"  as  Hawthorne  said,  "looking 
like  a  headless  sphinx  wrapped  in  a  Persian  shawl,  when  clad 
in  the  rich  and  diversified  autumnal  foliage  of  its  woods."  For 
Stockbridge  see  Route  5  (p  249). 

10.5  LEE.  Alt  950  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4106  (1910),  4481  (1915).  Berkshire 
Co.  Settled  1760.  Mfg.  paper,  marble,  lime,  wire  cloth, 
paper-making  machinery. 

Lee  is  a  paper-making  town  on  the  Housatonic,  which  at 
this  point  is  a  rapid  and  beautiful  stream  and  affords  valuable 
waterpower,  as  do  the  several  tributaries  which  here  join  it 
from  the  hills,  making  the  town  a  center  of  industry.  The 
first  paper  mill  was  erected  here  in  1806,  and  until  1850  Lee 
was  the  principal  paper  center  in  this  region  and  had  twenty- 
two  mills.  Here,  at  the  Columbia  Mill  of  the  Smith  Paper 
Company,  paper  was  first  made  from  wood  pulp,  in  1867. 

Its  inexhaustible  marble  quarries  afford  a  fine,  granular, 
dolomite  marble,  of  two  varieties — white  and  white  mottled 
with  gray,  from  which  have  been  constructed  the  Philadelphia 
City  Hall,  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  New  York,  the  wings  of 
the  National  Capitol,  and  more  than  600,000  soldiers'  head- 
stones which  have  been  supplied  to  the  Government.  The  Lee 
Public  Library  is  built  of  the  mottled  marble.  The  old  Con- 
gregational Church  has  a  beautiful  slender  spire  185  feet  high, 
the  commanding  architectural  feature  of  the  town,  and  justly 
an  object  of  admiration. 

The  first  settler  in  Lee  was  Isaac  Davis  who  in  1760  built  a  house 
on  Hop  Brook.  The  town  was  incorporated  in  1777.  It  was  named 
in  honor  of  General  Charles  Lee,  an  Englishman  who  served  in  the 
English  and  the  Russian  armies,  emigrating  to  Virginia  in  1773,  and 
forthwith  became  so  ardent  a  Whig  that  he  was  appointed  by  Congress 
second  in  command  of  the  Continental  Army.  The  hill  town  of 
Washington,  to  the  north,  incorporated  several  months  earlier,  was 
named  for  the  Commander-in-chief,  Lee  for  the  second  in  rank. 

In  the  northeastern  part  of  the  township  was  once  a  village,  Dodge- 
town,  which  was  deserted  nearly  a  century  ago.  Hardly  a  trace  of 
habitation  is  left,  but  unlike  Goldsmith's  deserted"  village,  "Sweet 
Auburn!  loveliest  village  of  the  plain,"  it  was  on  the  bleak  mountain- 
side and  was  a  hamlet  of  rude,  pioneer  dwellings. 

Erskine  Park,  the  Westinghouse  estate  south  of  Laurel  Lake, 
lies  largely  in  the  township  of  Lee,  as  does  Highcourt,  the 
country  place  of  William  B.  Osgood  of  New  York.  The  latter 
occupies  the  site  of  the  famous  stock  farm  of  the  late  Elizur 
Smith.  At  Pleasure  Park  in  September  the  annual  Hunt  Races 
are  a  gala  event  that  attracts  residents  from  all  the  Berkshires. 

Fern  Cliff,  east  of  the  village,  is  a  bold  elevation  of  quartz 
and  gneiss;  from  the  well- wooded  summit  there  is  a  fine  view 
of  the  Lenox  and  Stockbridge  country  and  the  Tyringham 
valley.  On  the  eastern  side  of  Fern  Cliff  is  Peter's  Cave, 


R.    13 '§   2.     PITTSFIELD  TO  SPRINGFIELD  393 

where  Peter  Wilcox,  Jr.,  implicated  in  Shays'  Rebellion  and 
sentenced  to  death,  was  secreted  for  a  time  after  his  escape, 
disguised  as  a  woman,  from  the  Great  Barrington  Jail. 

October  Mountain,  northeast  of  the  town,  is  the  name  given 
to  the  western  escarpment  of  the  eastern  highland.  Here  is 
Harry  Payne  Whitney's  celebrated  i4,ooo-acre  game  reserva- 
tion which  he  stocked  with  buffalo,  elk,  and  deer.  From  a 
point  a  mile  north  of  Lee,  a  road  leads  up  Washington  Brook 
into  the  heart  of  the  game  reservation  to  the  dome-like  summit 
where  Mr.  Whitney  built  his  lodge. 

The  route  follows  red  markers  along  the  Housatonic. 

13.0     EAST  LEE.     Alt  1000  ft.     (Part  of  Lee  twp  )     Settled  1773. 

At  the  Perry  place,  the  second  house  on  the  right  beyond  the 
bridge  east  of  the  hotel,  about  250  of  Shays'  rebellious  adher- 
ents (p  129)  gathered  in  1787  and,  to  overawe  the  State  force 
sent  against  them,  mounted  the  yarn-beam  of  Mother  Perry's 
loom  on  wheels,  from  which  counterfeit  cannon  the  attacking 
force  is  said  to  have  fled.  The  fourth  house  east  of  the  hotel 
was  the  residence  of  W.  K.  Gates,  whose  son  Charles  went  to 
the  pasture  with  the  cows  one  morning  in  May,  1861,  and  did 
not  return  until  an  evening  in  1864  when  he  brought  the  cows 
back  from  pasture  after  he  had  served  more  than  three  years 
with  the  Tenth  Massachusetts  regiment. 

The  route  with  red  markers,  from  here  to  the  Becket  line, 
about  3  miles  east,  follows  Cape  St.,  so  named  because  the 
region  was  settled  during  the  Revolution  by  people  from  Cape 
Cod  who  were  forced  to  migrate  because  the  British  Navy 
had  interrupted  their  seafaring  occupation. 

Note.  South  of  East  Lee  is  "The  hidden  dale  of  Tyring- 
ham"  with  its  pretty  village  four  miles  up  Hop  Brook.  The 
Tyringham  road,  beside  the  brook,  passes  Four  Brooks,  the 
home  of-  Richard  Watson  Gilder,  the  poet  and  editor  of  the 
"Century."  Ex-president  Cleveland,  Mark  Twain,  John 
Burroughs,  Thomas  Bailey  Aldrich,  Hamilton  Wright  Mabie, 
Jacob  Riis,  Okakura  Kakuzo,  and  a  host  of  other  writers  have 
either  lived  or  visited  in  the  valley  between  the  hills.  The 
upper  road  on  the  western  slope  from  South  Lee  passes  the 
mill  pond  and  the  decaying  homes  of  the  Shaker  colony  of 
Fernside  that  flourished  here  aforetime. 

The  earliest  settlement  here  was  in  1739.  The  first  route 
from  Springfield  westward  to  Sheffield  and  Great  Barrington 
led  through  this  valley.  Lord  Howe  on  his  way  to  Ticonderoga, 
where  he  lost  his  life,  perhaps  suggested  the  name  Tyringham, 
which  was  that  of  his  estate  in  England. 

The  village  of  Tyringham  still  continues  the  rake-making 
industry  of  Shaker  days.  Beyond  the  village  the  valley  widens 


394  EAST  LEE— WESTFIELD 

into  upland  meadows  where  the  Indians  initiated  the  settlers 
into  the  mysteries  of  maple-sugar  making.  To  the  southwest 
is  the  steep  road  to  Monterey,  once  a  stopping  place  on  the 
New  England  Trail  from  Albany  to  Boston,  but  now  an  almost 
forgotten  hamlet,  with  abandoned  villages  in  its  hills. 

Beyond  the  village  of  West  Becket  the  broad  State  Road 
encircles  the  hill  over  which  Jacob's  Ladder,  the  old  road,  used 
to  climb.  The  total  rise  from  East  Lee  to  the  summit  of 
Jacob's  Ladder  (1700  ft)  is  about  700  feet.  The  summit, 
marked  by  a  monument,  commands  an  extended  view.  Cross- 
ing the  watershed  between  the  Housatonic  and  the  Connecti- 
cut, the  highway,  marked  with  red,  descends  the  valley  of 
Walker  Brook,  crossing  the  line  between  Berkshire  and  Hamp- 
den  Counties,  and  meets  a  branch  of  the  Westfield  river  at 

28.0  CHESTER.  Alt  585  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1377  (1910),  1344  (1915). 
Hampden  Co.  Settled  1762.  Mfg.  paper,  granite,  emery, 
and  corundum. 

The  deposits  of  corundum,  a  hard  mineral  related  to  the 
sapphire  and  other  precious  stones,  and  the  abundant  water- 
power,  furnish  this  mountain  village  with  a  substantial  reason 
for  existence.  Abrasives  and  grinding  wheels  are  manufactured 
by  the  Springfield  Grinding,  The  Jackson  Mills  Emery,  the 
Abrasive  Mining  and  Manufacturing,  and  the  Hamilton  and 
Corundum  Companies.  Dairy  and  farm  products  are  brought 
here  for  shipment  from  the  rich  valleys  of  the  hinterland. 

The  road  winds  doWn  the  gorge  of  the  Westfield  river  to 

35.0     HVNTINGTON.     Alt  373  ft.     Pop   (twp)    1473   (1910),    1427 

(1915).     Hampshire  Co.     Settled  1760. 

Huntington,  formerly  Norwich,  was  renamed  in  1855  in 
honor  of  Charles  P.  Huntington.  It  is  a  paper-mill  village. 
The  trolley  line  management  with  an  eye  to  mutual  benefits 
has  taken  an  active  part  in  rural  development  here.  The 
farmers  had  always  raised  apples  in  the  old,  happy-go-lucky 
fashion.  The  trolley  management  sent  an  expert  to  give  the 
farmers  some  simple  instructions  in  harvesting  and  in  improv- 
ing their  trees,  and  supplied  barrels  at  cost.  The  first  year 
500  barrels  of  apples  were  taken  out  of  that  valley.  The  next 
year  the  number  had  increased  to  1500.  The  third  year  there 
were  3000,  a  gain  of  600  per  cent  in  two  years.  Next  they 
appealed  to  President  Butterfield  of  the  Amherst  Agricultural 
College,  and  with  his  cooperation  the  first  "Better  Farming" 
trolley  special  in  the  country  was  arranged.  Each  of  its  four 
large  cars  was  devoted  to  instructive  exhibits  for  the  demon- 
stration of  better  farming  possibilities.  Lectures  by  profes- 
sors from  the  College  of  Agriculture  were  given  at  various 
villages  along  the  route.  Another  feature  was  the  establish- 


R.   13   §  2.     PITTSFIELD  TO  SPRINGFIELD  395 

ment   of   three   model   farms  of   ten  acres  each   at   suitable 
points. 

In  this  village  the  East  and  West  Branches  join  to  form  the 
Westfield  river.  Turtle  Bend  Mountain,  an  isolated  dome, 
rises  from  the  center  of  the  valley  just  above  the  hamlet  of 

39.0  RUSSELL.  Alt  273  ft.  Pop  (twp)  965  (1910),  1104  (1915). 
Hampden  Co. 

This  little  village  was  named  for  the  Russell  family  who  were 
prominent  in  the  business  interests  of  the  vicinity. 

As  the  river  emerges  from  the  hills,  it  supplies  power  for 
the  Strathmore  Paper  mills  at  Woronoco  (41.5),  a  village  in 
Westfield  township,  and  flows  over  the  upper  levels  of  the 
Connecticut  valley  to 

47.5  WESTFIELD.  Alt  150  ft.  Pop  (twp)  16,044  (1910),  18,411 
(1915).  Hampden  Co.  Settled  1660.  Indian  name 
Woronoak.  Mfg.  whips,  paper,  thread,  musical  instruments, 
caskets,  machinery,  and  bicycles;  tobacco. 

Westfield  lies  in  the  midst  of  the  broad  alluvial  valley  known 
as  the  Woronoco,  cut  off  from  the  center  of  the  Connecticut 
valley  by  the  trap  ridges  of  the  Holyoke  range  and  Proven 
Mountain.  The  Westfield  river,  here  debouching  from  the 
Berkshire  Highlands,  offers  the  chief  avenue  through  them  to 
the  Housatonic  valley  and  the  Hudson. 

A  fur-trading  post  as  early  as  1640,  it  later  became  an  im- 
portant station  on  the  road  to  Albany  and  the  Hudson.  Today, 
Westfield  is  an  important  industrial  town  and  makes  95  per 
cent  of  the  world's  whips,  employing  uoo  hands,  with  an 
annual  output  of  20,000,000,  which  are  shipped  to  all  parts  of 
the  world.  Its  sobriquet  'The  Whip  City'  has  been  replaced 
by  'The  Pure  Food  Town,'  due  to  the  crusade  against  adul- 
terated foods  by  the  Westfield  Board  of  Health  under  the 
leadership  of  'The  Little  Gray  Man,'  Lewis  B.  Allyn. 

The  movement  began  in  1904  when  Professor  Allyn  of  the  State 
Normal  School  commenced  to  analyze  foods  for  certain  grocers. 
In  cooperation  with  the  Board  of  Health,  the  work  rapidly  increased 
in  extent  and  importance,  and  was  taken  up  throughout  the  country. 
Many  firms  have  been  roused  to  take  legal  proceedings,  but  more  still 
have  asked  for  help  and  advice.  While  Professor  Allyn's  townsmen 
have  paid  $1800  damage  adjudged  against  him  in  the  courts,  he  has 
also  stood  by  them  and  refused  offers  of  large  salaries.  He  would 
rather  continue  to  be  the  livest,  toughest  whip  that  Westfield  has  ever 
produced.  Lists  of  pure  foods  are  issued  by  the  Board  of  Health, 
grocers  are  offered  cash  prizes  amounting  to  $5000  in  gold  for  pure 
food  window  displays,  and  the  McClure  publications  have  taken  up 
the  movement  and  made  'big  stories.' 

In  Park  Square,  at  the  foot  of  Russell  Mountain,  stands  the 
Washington  Tavern,  built  about  1750,  which  contains  several 
interesting  relics  of  olden  days,  including  some  fox-hunting 
wall  paper,  an  excellent  example  of  old-style  decoration.  The 


3Q6  WESTFIELD— SPRINGFIELD 

Fowler  Tavern,  a  short  distance  north  of  Main  St.  near  the 
bridge  over  Little  River,  is  the  inn  where  General  Burgoyne 
is  reputed  to  have  stayed  overnight  while  on  the  way  to 
Boston  as  a  prisoner  of  war  after  his  surrender  at  Saratoga, 
Oct.  17,  1777.  The  Normal  School  is  the  second  oldest  in 
America  and  maintains  the  traditions  of  scholarship  handed 
down  by  the  Westfield  Academy,  founded  in  1800. 

The  region  about  here  was  early  a  favorite  one  for  trappers  and 
there  are  records  as  early  as  1641  that  persons  from  Connecticut  had 
wrongly  set  up  a  trading  post  at  "Woronock,"  but  it  was  twenty  years 
later  before  a  permanent  settlement  was  made.  At  first  it  was  called 
Streamfield  because  of  its  situation  between  the  Westfield  and  Little 
rivers.  Later  the  present  name  was  adopted  because  it  was  due  west 
from  Boston  and  the  westernmost  settlement  of  the  colony.  A  fron- 
tier town  with  no  settlement  between  it  and  the  Hudson  river  to  the 
west  and  Canada  on  the  north,  it  was  necessarily  strongly  fortified 
with  a  palisade  two  miles  in  circuit  and  a  log  fort  within.  At  the 
outbreak  of  King  Philip's  War,  the  General  Court  in  Boston  ordered 
the  abandonment  of  Westfield  and  some  other  frontier  settlements, 
but  the  courage  of  the  Westfield  settlers  was  such  that  they  prepared 
to  remain  to  protect  their  homes.  No  organized  attack  was  made, 
but  many  of  the  settlers  were  killed  by  sniping  Indians  in  hiding.  Dur- 
ing the  Revolution  guns  were  made  for  the  army  in  a  deep  glen  at  the 
foot  of  Mt.  Tekoa,  where  foundations  may  yet  be  seen. 

Among  the  virile  early  settlers  was  one  Falley,  originally  Faille, 
who  had  been  kidnapped  from  his  home  in  Guernsey  and  taken  to 
Nova  Scotia.  His  son  Richard  at  the  age  of  twelve  enlisted  in  the 
army  and  at  the  age  of  sixteen  was  captured  by  the  Indians  and  taken 
to  Montreal.  Ransomed  by  a  lady  who  gave  sixteen  gallons  of  rum 
for  his  release,  he  returned  to  Westfield.  He  took  part  in  the  Battle 
of  Bunker  Hill  together  with  his  fourteen-year-old  son,  Frederick. 

Major-general  William  Shepard  of  Westfield,  who  was  prominent 
in  the  suppression  of  Shays'  Rebellion  in  1787  (p  129),  was  born  in  a 
house  which  stood  nearly  opposite  the  school  house  on  Franklin  St. 

In  addition  to  the  whip  industry,  the  H.  B.  Smith  Company  manu- 
factures steam  boilers  and  radiators;  Crane  Brothers  make  ledger  paper; 
twenty  cigar  factories  turn  out  15,000,000  smokes  a  year. 

From  Westfield  the  road  follows  the  pioneer  trail  between 
Springfield  and  Albany  that  led  westward  over  the  hills  through 
Monterey  and  Great  Barrington.  The  ridge  of  trap  rock  that 
runs  up  the  Connecticut  from  New  Haven  (p  24)  is  cut  by 
the  Westfield  river,  and  the  highway  and  the  railroad  squeeze 
through  on  either  bank.  To  the  south  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  ridge  is  the  village  of  Feeding  Hills,  preserving  the  old 
name  given  to  this  terrace  by  the  settlers. 

The  route  continues  through  West  Springfield  (p  309), 
north  of  the  paper-making  suburb  of  Mittineague,  where  are 
the  mills  of  the  Strathmore,  Worthy,  Agawam,  and  Southworth 
companies,  and  meets  Route  10.  Crossing  the  Connecticut 
river,  it  enters 

56.0     SPRINGFIELD  (R.  1,  p  121). 

From  Springfield  follow  Route  i  to  BOSTON  (151.0). 


R.  14.     PITTSFIELD  to  NORTHAMPTON.    44.5  m. 
Via  DALTON,  CUMMINGTON,  and  WILLIAMSBURG. 

This  is  a  State  Road  nearly  all  the  way,  recently  rebuilt  and 
improved  by  the  State  Highway  Commission.  The  route  is 
marked  beyond  Dalton  by  yellow  bands  on  poles  at  all  doubt- 
ful points. 

From  the  Park,  Pittsfield,  follow  North  St.  with  trolley, 
turning  at  hospital  right,  into  Tyler  St.,  with  blue  markers. 

In  Coltsville,  on  the  way  to  Dalton,  are  the  Crane  Mills 
where  by  secret  processes  the  paper  is  made  for  the  bills  and 
bank  notes  of  the  United  States  and  many  foreign  countries. 
The  Cranes  have  continued  to  hold  this  monopoly  for  many 
years  with  great  profit.  Zenas  Crane,  a  benefactor  of  Pitts- 
field,  founded  this  plant,  the  second  in  the  land,  in  1799,  call- 
ing on  his  patriotic  neighbors  to  support  the  infant  industry 
in  the  following  notice:  "Americans:  Encourage  your  own 
manufactories  and  they  will  improve.  Ladies  save  your  Rags, 
— as  the  Subscribers  have  it  in  contemplation  to  erect  a  Paper 
mill  in  Dalton,  the  ensuing  spring." 

5.5     DALTON.     Alt  1188  ft.    Pop   (twp)  3568  (1910),  3859  (1915). 

Berkshire   Co.     Settled  1755.     Mfg.  paper  and   wood  pulp, 

boxes,  woolen  and  worsted  goods. 

Dalton,  on  the  east  branch  of  the  Housatonic,  has  valuable 
waterpower,  as  was  first  recognized  by  Zenas  Crane.  Today 
mills  are  distributed  along  the  whole  course  of  the  stream. 
To  the  north  of  Dalton  is  The  Gulf  or  'Wizard's  Glen,'  a  wild 
ravine  with  an  uncanny  echo  about  which  linger  Indian  legends. 
The  town,  once  known  as  "Ashuelot  Equivalent,"  was  granted  to 
Oliver  Partridge  and  others  of  Hatfield  in  lieu  of  a  township  in  New 
Hampshire,  supposed  by  early  surveyors  to  be  in  Massachusetts.  It 
was  named  for  the  Hon.  Tristram  Dalton,  Speaker  in  the  House  of 
Representatives  (1784),  and  for  a  long  time  was  called  Dale-Town. 

Note.  From  Dalton,  a  State  Road  leads  southward  through 
Hinsdale  to  Peru  (2220  ft),  the  highest  town  in  the  State.  Its 
church  steeple  is  anchored  by  cable,  and  sheds  the  rain  into  the 
Hudson  or  the  Connecticut  as  it  chances  to  fall  on  the  east  or 
west  side  of  the  roof.  From  Hinsdale  a  new  State  Road  con- 
tinues south  through  Washington  and  Becket,  joining  Route  13. 

The  route  follows  the  yellow  markers  and  gradually  ascends 
to  an  altitude  of  2000  feet  before  coming  into  Windsor.  Be- 
tween Dalton  and  Windsor  are  the  Waconah  Falls,  the  grand- 
est in  the  State,  dropping  80  feet  over  a  gray  marble  cliff. 
Two  miles  beyond  Dalton,  on  Mt.  Pleasant  in  West  Windsor, 
is  the  country  home  of  Ex-senator  W.  Murray  Crane,  whilom 
Governor  of  Massachusetts,  versed  not  only  in  the  secret  lore 
of  paper-making,  but  in  that  of  statecraft. 

(397) 


398  WINDSOR— BUCKLAND 

12.5  WINDSOR.  Alt  2000  ft.  Pop  (twp)  404  (1910),  375  (1915). 
Berkshire  Co.  Settled  1762.  Indian  name  Ouschauka- 
maug. 

The  settlers  originally  called  it  Gageborough,  but  its  present 
name  was  adopted  in  1778. 

The  route  follows  the  State  Road  down  the  narrow  upper 
valley  of  the  Westfield  river  through  West  Cummington.  On 
either  side  the  hills  rise  700  feet  above  the  road. 

24.5  CUMMINGTON.  Alt  1100  ft.  Pop  (twp)  637  (1910),  658 
(1915).  Hampshire  Co.  Settled  1770. 

Cummington,  the  birthplace  of  the  poet  Bryant,  is  a  little 
hamlet  among  the  tumbled  hills.  Far  from  a  railroad,  it  has 
been  left  behind  in  the  advance  of  commerce  and  transporta- 
tion and  is  but  little  changed  since  the  poet's  boyhood;  except, 
perhaps,  that  it  has  given  so  generously  of  its  best  sons  and 
daughters  to  the  outer  world  that  the  quality  of  those  who 
remain  has  deteriorated.  The  brooks,  the  hills,  the  woods 
are  still  as  when  the  poet  made  acquaintance  with  nature 
"through  her  visible  forms."  This  is  the  scene  of  the  "Forest 
Hymn,"  with  the  wellknown  opening  line,  "The  groves  were 
God's  first  temples,"  and  the  brook  which  inspired  "The 
Rivulet "  still  runs  through  the  Bryant  farm.  The  town  library 
is  the  gift  of  Bryant.  On  the  cattle  show  grounds  in  the  fall 
is  held  an  oldtime  country  fair.  Fayette  Shaw,  a  pioneer  in 
the  organization  of  the  tanning  industry,  was  born  here  in 
1824  and  learned  the  trade  at  his  father's  tannery  before  he 
opened  immense  Maine  plants. 

The  route  continues  through  Swift  River  (27.0),  a  hamlet 
named  from  the  tributary  which  comes  in  from  the  north. 
The  route  leaves  the  valley  of  the  Westfield  river,  which  here 
turns  southward,  and,  following  the  yellow  markers,  ascends 
through  Lithia  (28.5)  to  Goshen. 

Note.  From  Lithia,  a  recently  constructed  State  Road 
turns  north  to 

8.0     ASHFIELD.     Alt  1250  ft.     Pop    (twp)  959   (1910),  994   (1915). 
Franklin  Co.     Settled  1745. 

Ashfield  is  a  hill  town,  rich  in  charming  views  and  the  lit- 
erary association  of  the  capable  men  it  has  sent  forth  into  the 
world  and  of  others  who  have  been  attracted  to  it  by  its  sum- 
mer beauty.  The  old  Sanderson  Academy  has  fitted  a  host 
of  boys  and  girls  for  college,  many  of  whom  have  become 
prominent  in  the  great  outside  world.  Perhaps  its  most  fa- 
mous sons  are  G.  Stanley  Hall,  psychologist  and  President  of 
Clark  University,  and  Alvan  E.  Clark  (b.  1804),  originally  a 
portrait  painter,  who  became  astronomer  and  finally  the  most 
famous  of  telescope  makers.  Charles  Eliot  Norton  and 


R.    14.     PITTSFIELD   TO   NORTHAMPTON  399 

George  William  Curtis,  two  of  the  most  accomplished  and 
cultivated  Americans  of  their  time,  made  Ashfield  their  sum- 
mer home  and  a  mecca  for  their  friends.  Matthew  Arnold 
journeyed  up  to  this  hill  town  to  share  their  companionship. 
Lowell,  on  his  return  from  England,  was  here  greeted  at  one 
of  the  now  famous  annual  dinners  held  in  Sanderson  Academy. 
At  the  isoth  anniversary,  in  1915,  of  the  incorporation  of  the 
town,  Dr.  G.  Stanley  Hall  in  his  address  said: 

"I  was  born  of  the  sturdy  old  Puritan,  first-growth  stock,  and 
spent  my  childhood  and  youth  in  the  Ashfield  of  half  a  century  or  more 
ago.  I  learned  to  hoe,  mow,  chop,  plow,  plant,  sow,  milk,  fodder 
cattle,  clean  stalls,  dig,  make  fences  and  stone  walls,  shovel  snow, 
mend  roads,  break  in  steers  and  colts,  care  for  young  pigs,  lambs,  calves, 
make  maple  sugar,  soap  out  of  the  lye,  wood  ashes,  and  fat;  and 
evenings  my  father  taught  me  how  to  make  brooms,  and  my  mother 
and  aunts  how  to  braid  palm-leaf  hats,  knit  stockings  and  shag  mit- 
tens, and  I  was  often  called  on  to  make  fires,  wash  dishes,  and  even  to 
cook  a  little,  although  this  latter  was  often  severely  criticised  by  those 
who  had  to  partake  of  my  viands.  Now  we  call  these  things  agri- 
culture, domestic  art,  or  occupations,  but  then  we  called  it  work.  I 
then  belonged  to  what  is  now  designated  as  the  toiling  masses;  that 
is,  I  was  simply  a  farmer's  boy;  and  never  was  there  more  ideal  en- 
vironment for  boys  to  grow  up  in  than  the  old  New  England  farm  of 
those  happy  days. 

"Life  here,  then,  was  by  no  means  all  a  grind,  for  there  was  abun- 
dant recreation.  There  was  much  fishing,  and  fish  were  then  plenty, 
with  trapping  and  hunting;  there  were  games  galore,  out  of  doors 
and  within,  for  summer  and  winter.  There  were  spelling  and  singing 
schools,  and  weekly  debates  in  the  winter  evenings  in  the  school-houses, 
and  occasional  dances  at  private  houses,  bad  as  these  and  surrepti- 
tious games  of  old  sledge  and  euchre  were.  There  was  the  old  library 
in  the  Sanderson  tannery,  the  tedious,  solemn  Sunday  with  its  two 
church  services,  between  which  we  ate  home-made  cookies  with  car- 
away seeds,  and  the  yet  more  tedious  Sunday-school,  in  which  I  did 
the  most  unnatural  and  monstrous  thing  of  learning,  for  a  prize,  the 
whole  of  the  New  England  catechism,  of  which  I  then  understood  and 
now  remember  nothing  save  that  the  chief  end  of  man  was  'to  glorify 
God  and  enjoy  him  forever,'  whatever  that  might  mean;  and  there 
was  the  tremendous  experience  of  moving  the  old  yellow  church  from 
the  flat  to  its  present  position  on  the  plain." 

From  Ashfield,  a  State  Road  continues  north  down  the  valley 
of  Clesson  Brook  through 

13.0  BVCKLAND.  Alt  700  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1573  (1910),  1572  (1915). 
Franklin  Co.  Inc.  1779. 

This  town  was  once  known  as  '  Notown '  and  is  the  birthplace 
of  Mary  Lyon  (b  1797),  the  founder  of  Mount  Holyoke. 

Fork  right  (14.5),  under  R.R.,  curving  right  along  the  Deer- 
field  river  and  joining  Route  15  to  Shelburne  Falls. 

Note.  From  Ashfield  the  route  to  the  right  of  the  stone 
watering  trough  at  the  end  of  the  street  leads  through  South 
Ashfield  (1.5)  and  Conway  (7.5)  to  Deerfield  (15.0),  on  Route 
10  (P3i?)- 

From  Lithia  the  yellow-marked  route  leads  to 


400  GOSH  EN— NORTHAMPTON 

31.0     GOSHEN.     Alt  1440  ft.     Pop    (twp)   279    (1910),  284    (1915). 

Hampshire  Co.     Inc.  1781. 

This  biblical  old  Hebrew  name  means  "approaching." 
Quarries  here  in  the  Goshen  schist,  the  prevailing  rock  of  the 
region,  formerly  furnished  flagstones,  used  in  Northampton 
and  the  valley  towns.  The  State  Road  rapidly  descends  the 
narrow  valley  of  Mill  River  to 

36.5  WILLIAMSBURG.  Alt  589  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2132  (1910),  2118 
(1915).  Hampshire  Co.  Inc.  1771.  Mfg.  brooms,  but- 
tons, cutlery,  and  hardware. 

The  waterpower  here  is  utilized  for  manufacturing.  The 
route  passes  through  Haydenville  (38.5)  and  on  to  Leeds,  a  part 
of  the  city  of  Northampton  where  are  several  of  the  Corticelli 
silk  mills. 

The  road  having  descended  nearly  1200  feet  in  the  past  ten 
miles,  now  debouches  on  the  great  Florence  plain,  extending 
north  into  Hatfield  and  south  to  Loudville.  This  is  the  delta 
of  the  Mill  river,  its  great  extent  formed  at  the  close  of  the 
glacial  period.  All  this  portion  of  the  Connecticut  valley  was 
then  occupied  by  a  lake  in  which  were  deposited  the  laminated 
clays  of  this  region,  which  have  a  thickness  of  160  feet.  These 
clays,  interesting  geologically,  are  somewhat  used  for  brick- 
making.  The  layers  or  laminations  are  about  two  fifths  of 
an  inch  thick,  the  lower  portion  of  the  finest  clay  grading  into 
very  fine  sandy  clay  in  the  upper  part.  The  lower  portion 
was  deposited  in  winter  when  the  lake  was  frozen  over;  the 
upper,  in  summer,  during  the  floods  from  the  melting  ice.  At 
Loudville,  seven  miles  south,  is  an  old  lead  mine  worked 
during  the  Revolution  and  again  during  the  Civil  War.  The 
ore  carries  silver,  zinc,  and  copper,  and  many  rare  minerals 
have  been  found  here. 

41.5     FLORENCE.     Alt    274   ft.     Mfg.    silk,    toothbrushes,    burial 

caskets,  and  hydrants. 

This  is  a  manufacturing  suburb  of  Northampton.  The  silk 
industry  was  started  here  about  seventy-five  years  ago  due  to 
the  belief  that  mulberry  trees  and  silkworms  could  be  success- 
fully grown.  The  raising  of  silkworms  proved  a  failure,  but 
the  silk  mills  have  prospered.  The  Corticelli  Silk  Mills  be- 
longing to  the  Nonotuck  Silk  Company  are  among  the  largest 
silk  thread  works  in  the  world,  employing  500  hands.  Here  is 
the  home  of  the  Prophylactic  Tooth  Brush,  a  product  of  the 
Florence  Manufacturing  Company.  This  concern  started  fifty 
years  ago  as  makers  of  composition  buttons  and  later  devel- 
oped the  toothbrush  which  they  have  made  famous. 

44.5     NORTHAMPTON  (R.  10,  p  312). 


R.  15.     ALBANY  to  BOSTON.  197.5  m. 

Via  WILLIAMSTOWN,  GREENFIELD,  and  FITCHBURG. 

This  route,  the  northern  road  across  Massachusetts,  follows 
for  the  most  part  the  valleys  of  three  rivers,  the  Hoosic,  the 
Deerfield,  and  Millers  rivers,  crossing  the  Taconic  range  by 
the  Pownal  Pass  and  the  Hoosac  by  the  Mohawk  Trail.  It  is 
a  natural  thoroughfare,  originally  an  Indian  trail,  only  recently 
made  practicable  for  automobiles  by  the  construction  of  the 
Mohawk  Trail  section  of  State  Road. 

Its  attractions  are  many, — the  historic  ground  of  the  Hoosic 
valley,  the  Williamstown  region  of  the  Berkshires,  the  scenic 
attractions,  almost  unparalleled  in  New  England,  of  the  Hoosac 
range,  with  the  remarkable  gorges  of  the  Deerfield  and  Millers 
rivers,  reaching  a  climax  in  historic  and  literary  interests  in 
Concord  and  Lexington. 

The  route  through  Massachusetts  is  a  Trunk  Line  State  High- 
way marked  throughout  its  course  by  red  bands  on  telegraph 
poles  and  fence  posts. 

Note.  The  shortest  route  to  Williamstown,  over  excellent 
macadam  finished  1915,  is  rather  less  interesting.  It  leads 
through  Troy  (6.5),  turning  up  Hoosick  St.,  from  Fifth  Ave., 
and  thence  passing  through  Center  Brunswick  (11.5),  bear- 
ing left  a  mile  beyond,  and  continuing  through  Raymertown 
(17.5).  Crossing  the  Tomhannock  Reservoir  (17.8),  it  leads 
through  Pittstown  (20.5),  Boytonville  (23.0),  Potter  Hill 
(26.0),  and  North  Petersburg  (31.5),  to  Pownal  (39.0),  where 
it  joins  the  main  route  (p  405). 

Other  routes  are  as  follows:  through  Troy,  The  Alps,  Dun- 
ham's Hollow,  Stephentown,  Hancock,  and  South  Williams- 
town  (48.5),  joining  Route  5,  note  (p  256);  or  via  Grafton, 
Petersburg,  and  North  Petersburg  (37.5),  joining  the  first 
route  given  in  this  note. 


R.  15  §  1.  Albany  to  Williamstown.  57.0m. 

Via  TROY,  SCHAGHTICOKE,  and  POWNAL. 

The  route  leads  through  Troy,  and  thence  strikes  across 
rolling  country  on  the  line  of  the  International  Highway  pro- 
jected between  New  York  and  Montreal.  At  Schaghticoke 
the  route  turns  eastward  up  the  Hoosic  river  valley  past  a 
succession  of  old  Dutch  settlements  and  through  the  North 
Pownal  pass  of  the  Taconic  Mountains  to  Williamstown. 

The  route  leaves  Albany  by  Broadway,  paralleling  the  Erie 
Canal,  beyond  which  is  the  Hudson.  The  road  crosses  the 

(4oi) 


402  TROY— EAGLE  BRIDGE 

canal  in  the  city  of  Watervliet,  a  manufacturing  suburb  of 
Troy,  in  which  is  located  the  U.S.  Arsenal  for  the  manufacture 
of  heavy  guns.  Crossing  the  Hudson  by  the  bridge  at  the 
foot  of  igth  St.,  the  route  enters 

6.5  TROY.  Alt  27  ft.  Pop  76,813  (1910),  75,488  (1915);  of  which 
one  fifth  is  foreign-born.  County-seat  of  Rensselaer  Co. 
Settled  1659.  Mjg.  collars,  cuffs,  shirts,  railroad  cars,  ma- 
chinery and  other  iron  and  steel  products,  mathematical 
instruments,  brushes,  and  knit  goods. 

Troy  makes  nine  tenths  of  America's  collars  and  cuffs.  In 
addition  to  its  manufacturing  activity,  it  is  important  as  a 
railroad  junction,  the  head  of  Hudson  River  steamboat  navi- 
gation, and  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Barge  Canals  from 
the  west  and  the  north.  The  city  is  also  the  home  of  Rensse- 
laer Polytechnic  Institute,  the  Emma  Willard  School,  and 
other  academic  institutions.  The  residential  section  is  on  the 
heights  overlooking  the  business  and  factory  belt  on  the  shore. 

The  Music  Hall  and  the  Public  Library  are  two  of  the  prin- 
cipal public  buildings.  Near  the  latter  on  Second  St.,  at  the 
site  of  her  first  school  buildings,  is  a  statue  of  Emma  Willard, 
the  pioneer  in  women's  education,  who  founded  the  Emma 
Willard  School  here  in  1821.  The  Rensselaer  Polytechnic 
Institute,  the  oldest  engineering  school  in  America,  was  estab- 
lished by  Stephen  Van  Rensselaer  in  1824  and  has  always  held 
a  high  rank.  Mrs.  Russell  Sage  has  presented  $1,000,000  to 
the  Willard  School  and  an  equal  sum  to  the  Institute,  and  has 
founded  the  Russell  Sage  School  of  Practical  Art. 

Troy  was  one  of  the  patroon  farms  under  the  early  Dutch  rule  and 
until  the  Revolution  was  only  a  ferry  station.  Beef  contracts  for  the 
army  in  the  War  of  1812  brought  money  into  Trojan  pockets  and  the 
opening  of  the  Erie  Canal  in  1825  increased  the  city's  prominence. 
Iron  works  were  started  in  1830  and  in  the  Civil  War  contracts  were 
placed  here  for  munitions,  including  the  armor  and  some  of  the  machin- 
ery for  the  "Monitor."  The  waterpower  of  Poesten  Kill  and  Wy- 
nant's  Kill,  which  rush  down  from  the  heights,  increases  Troy's  manu- 
facturing facilities.  The  most  notable  plant  is  that  of  the  Cluett- 
Peabody  Company,  the  largest  shirt  and  collar  factory  in  the  world. 

Leaving  Troy  by  Fifth  Avenue,  the  route  passes  Rensselaer 
Park,  Oakwood  Cemetery,  and  the  Lansingburgh  district,  at 
the  end  of  which  (10.5)  by  the  stone  water  trough  at  the  cross- 
roads it  forks  right,  uphill  and  under  R.R.  The  road  now 
follows  the  route  proposed  for  the  International  Highway  be- 
tween New  York  and  Montreal. 

The  country  is  a  rich  farm  land  with  numerous  brooklets 
flowing  from  the  lower  terraces  of  the  valley  down  to  the 
Hudson.  To  the  right  are  the  irregular  slopes  of  Nut,  Ra- 
finesque  (1197  ft),  and  Rice  Mountains  (1925  ft),  and  the  ridge 
of  the  Taconics  on  the  eastern  sky  line. 


R.    15   §    I.     ALBANY   TO   WILLIAMSTOWN  403 

The  excellent  macadam  road  leads  through  the  wayside  vil- 
lages of  Speigletown  (13.0),  Grant  Hollow  (15.0),  and  Melrose 
(16.0),  and  then,  crossing  R.R.  and  a  brook,  ascends  a  gradual 
slope.  After  crossing  the  water-worn  channel  of  Tomhannock 
Creek  the  road  climbs  over  Schaghticoke  Hill,  overlooking  the 
Troy  Reservoir  and  descends  to  the  Hoosic  river,  where  it 
turns  sharply  to  the  right,  running  up  the  south  bank  of  the 
stream  through  the  outskirts  of 

20.0  SCHAGHTICOKE.  Alt  284  ft.  Pop  765  (1910),  794  (1915). 
Rensselaer  Co.  Settled  1709.  Indian  name,  "Mingling 
waters."  Mfg.  woolens,  twine,  and  gunpowder. 

The  manufacturing  village  of  Schaghticoke  is  situated  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  Hoosic  at  Harts  Falls.  It  still  bears 
evidence  of  its  Dutch  origin,  but  for  a  century  past  has  been 
an  industrial  community  with  textile  and  powder  mills. 

The  river  drops  160  feet  in  less  than  two  miles.  At  the  Big 
Eddy,  below  the  bridge,  a  dam  furnishes  power  for  a  hydro- 
electric plant,  beyond  which  the  river  rushes  through  a  gorge 
200  feet  deep,  with  a  fall  of  100  feet,  and  a  width  of  but  12 
feet  at  Hell  Gate. 

The  Knickerbocker  mansion,  often  visited  by  Washington 
Irving,  stands  by  the  road  three  miles  below  the  village  near 
the  confluence  of  Tomhannock  Creek  and  the  Hoosic  river. 
The  Witenagemot  Oak,  a  magnificent  tree  in  the  fields  close 
by,  was  planted  by  Governor  Andros  and  the  Indian  chiefs  of 
the  Witenagemot,  or  Council  of  the  Wise,  in  token  of  peace. 

The  route  leads  northward  through  Valley  Falls  (22.5),  a 
village  identified  with  Schaghticoke  in  its  industries  and  char- 
acter, and  there  joins  the  river  once  more.  From  this  point 
the  road  continues  up  the  valley  all  the  way  to  Williamstown. 
The  shaly  soil  is  rich  in  ochers,  used  by  the  paint  mills  at 
Graf  ton  ten  miles  to  the  south.  Seedsmen  find  the  soil  well 
adapted  for  their  industry,  and  rye  is  one  of  the  best  local  crops. 

Passing  through  Johnsonville  (25.5),  a  village  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  river,  the  route  winds  beside  the  stream  to 

32.5     EAGLE  BRIDGE.     Alt  390  ft.     Rensselaer  Co.     Settled  1724. 

This  quaint  little  settlement  lies  at  the  junction  of  Owl  Kill 
with  the  Hoosic,  in  the  midst  of  an  attractive  rolling  country. 

Note.  The  left  fork  leads  to  Cambridge,  N.Y.,  and  Route  43 
to  Manchester,  Vt. 

The  road  crosses  the  river  and  curves  southward  along  the 
meadows  through  the  hamlet  of  North  Hoosick  (36.0).  (Note 
the  spellings  as  adopted  by  the  U.S.  Geological  Survey, — 
Hoosic  River,  Hoosac  Mountains,  Hoosick  Falls.  The  term  is 
Indian,  meaning  "rocky  mountain  stream.") 


404  EAGLE   BRIDGE— POWNAL 

Note.  The  lefthand  road  leads  to  Bennington  up  the  val- 
ley of  the  Walloomsac  river  past  Bennington  Battlefield  (p  257). 
The  positions  of  the  opposing  forces  and  the  sites  of  the  prin- 
cipal engagements  are  marked  with  stones  and  tablets. 

The  main  route  turns  right,  crossing  the  intervale  at  the 
union  of  the  Walloomsac  and  Hoosic  valleys,  and  enters 

38.5  HOOSICK  FALLS.  Alt  450  ft.  Pop  5532  (1910),  5406  (1915). 
Rensselaer  Co.  Settled  1688.  Mfg.  harvesting  machinery, 
woolens,  shirts,  and  iron  hardware. 

The  Hoosic  river  here  drops  through  a  rocky  winding  gorge, 
furnishing  power  that  has  made  the  town  a  manufacturing 
center  ever  since  1784.  Walter  A.  Wood's  mowing  machine, 
invented  here  in  1845-48  and  combined  with  other  patents,  has 
received  a  number  of  gold  medals.  Wood  was  heralded  as 
'  A  Benefactor  to  Humanity '  and  today  his  machines  are  in  use 
the  world  over. 

Hawkeye,  the  hero  of  Cooper's  "Leather-stocking  Tales," 
whose  real  name  was  Nathaniel  Bumppo-Schipman,  here  met 
Chingachgook  and  his  son  Uncas,  whose  lives  are  followed  with 
comparative  exactitude  in  "The  Last  of  the  Mohicans,"  and 
here  the  leather-stockinged  scout  died  in  1809. 

Leaving  Hoosick  Falls  the  route  leads  over  the  hills  beside 
the  river  and  above  R.R.  into  the  hamlet  of  Hoosick  (42.0). 
The  quaint  Gothic  hall  of  the  Tibbits  family,  lords  of  the  manor 
this  hundred  and  sixteen  years,  overlooks  the  parklike  mead- 
ows. Tibbits'  Hoosac  School  for  Boys  is  in  the  charge  of  the 
Rev.  Edward  Tibbits,  who  also  holds  the  living  of  All  Saints' 
Chapel.  The  chapel  and  its  sweet-toned  bells,  one  of  which 
is  almost  six  hundred  years  old,  are  the  gift  of  his  grandfather, 
George  Mortimer  Tibbits.  The  latter  traveled  abroad  col- 
lecting art  treasures  and  an  extensive  library  in  addition  to 
Durham  cattle  and  the  largest  flock  of  Saxony  sheep  in  the 
country.  This  was  in  the  days  when  Hoosick  was  a  wool 
center,  grazing  56,000  sheep  in  her  generous  pastures. 

Two  miles  beyond  Hoosick  the  road  passes  Petersburg  Junc- 
tion R.R.  Station  on  the  site  of  the  manor  of  Barnabas  Brodt, 
built  in  1736.  Opposite  in  the  fork  was  Dutch  Hooesac,  a 
bustling  little  trading  post  burned  by  the  French  on  the  Fort 
Massachusetts  raid  of  August,  1746.  Captivity  Mountain,  on 
the  left,  is  named  after  Captivity  Smead,  born  here  as  the 
prisoners  were  being  taken  from  the  fort  to  Quebec. 

After  crossing  the  stream  the  route  turns  to  the  left  at  the 
crossroads.  Here  at  the  confluence  of  the  Hoosic  and  Little 
Hoosic  rivers  the  road  enters  the  Taconic  Mountains,  a  shat- 
tered remnant  of  marble  and  limestone  capped  with  schist, 


R.    15  §    I.     ALBANY   TO   WILLIAMSTOWN  405 

extending  along  the  New  England  borders  for  200  miles.  They 
are  distinct  from  the  Green  Mountains  and  the  Berkshires  in 
that  they  contain  no  quartzite,  granite,  or  iron  and  have  no 
evergreen  forests.  The  name  is  Indian,  signifying  "wooded 
rocky  mountains,"  and  has  a  variety  of  spellings,  like  the  river 
which  flows  through  the  pass. 

A  mile  beyond  the  New  York-Vermont  boundary  is 

49.0  NORTH  POWNAL.  Alt  560  ft.  (Part  of  Pownal  twp.)  Ben- 
nington  Co.  Settled  1724. 

This  hamlet  lies  on  the  level  floor  of  the  vale  near  the  west 
gate  of  the  Hoosic  Pass,  beneath  Kfeigger's  Rocks.  This  bluff 
marks  the  site  of  the  glacial  dam  that  held  back  an  ancient 
lake,  whose  shore  line  is  still  traceable  on  the  hillsides.  A  few 
scattered  lakelets  back  in  the  hills  about  the  entrance  to  the 
pass  are  all  that  remain  of  these  ancient  waters. 

President  Garfield  and  President  Arthur,  who  succeeded  to 
the  Presidency  after  Garfield's  assassination,  both  taught  in 
the  little  brown  school  house.  The  Westinghouse  farm,  set- 
tled by  the  inventor's  great-grandparents,  is  on  the  riverbank 
opposite  Kreigger's  Rocks. 

The  cliffs  are  named  for  Juria  Kreigger,  a  Dutch  squatter  of  1724, 
who  received  title  for  land  from  the  English  in  1760  in  return  for  the 
mill  and  other  improvements  he  had  made.  In  1765  the  death  of 
Hans  Kreigger,  his  son,  led  to  the  trial  of  the  widow  for  witchcraft  on 
charges  preferred  by  certain  Rhode  Island  Baptists  of  "intolerable 
inquisitiveness"  and  "unparalleled  volubility."  She  was  put  in  the 
river  through  the  ice  and  sank  to  the  bottom,  proving  her  innocence, 
whereat  the  executioners  pulled  her  out  and  saved  her  life. 

52.5  POWNAL.  Alt  600  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1599.  Bennington  Co. 
Settled  1724. 

The  village  is  in  the  beautiful  intervale  between  the  north 
and  south  entrances  of  the  Hoosic  Pass  of  the  Taconics. 

It  was  settled  by  Dutch  squatters  in  1724;  in  1760  it  was  chartered 
by  Governor  Benning  Wentworth  of  New  Hampshire  with  his  custom- 
ary stipulations  whereby  each  landholder  must  build  a  house  of  regu- 
lation type,  clear  land,  and  help  construct  meeting  houses,  schools, 
mills,  bridges,  and  roads. 

The  first  elder  of  Pownal,  George  Gardner,  a  stanch  old  Tory,  was 
converted  into  a  Whig  after  the  Battle  of  Bennington  by  being  hung 
from  a  fence  post  by  his  waistband.  Notwithstanding  this  summary 
treatment  he  lived  to  plant  an  apple  orchard  at  eighty-five  and  eat 
its  fruit  nineteen  years  later. 

The  Weeping  Rocks  (54.0),  below  Pownal,  are  at  the  eastern 
end  of  the  Hoosic  Pass,  one  of  the  points  admired  by  Washing- 
ton on  his  horseback  trip  to  Bennington  in  August,  1790,  to 
make  final  arrangements  for  Vermont's  admittance  into  the 
Union.  The  eastern  view  extends  over  Williamstown  with  its 
Gothic  tower  to  Greylock,  the  highest  peak  in  Massachusetts. 
The  Rocks  are  "pudding-stone,"  the  oldest  outcrop  in  the 


406  POWNAL— WILLIAMSTOWN 

valley.      Overlying  are  the   schist   and  limestone   of   a  later 
age,    the    Green    Mountain    quartzite    breaking    through    to 
the  north  and  east.     Mohican  tradition  foretold  the  downfall 
of  the  tribe  at  the  place  where  the  "rocks  wept";  and  on  this 
spot  the  Mohawks  butchered  the  Mohican  war  party  in  1668. 
"Silent  they  fell  at  their  chieftain's  side, 
And  Hoosac  blushed  with  the  purple  tide. 
Here  mourn  the  rocks  a  nation's  woe, 
And  tear-drops  from  the  mountain  flow!" 

At  Squire  Ware's  State  Line  Tavern,  two  miles  and  a  half 
down  the  road,  refreshments  are  served,  and  on  occasion  mar- 
riages may  take  place,  in  Pownal,  Vt.,  or  Williamstown,  Mass., 
as  may  be  most  expedient.  From  this  point  the  route  is  marked 
by  red  bands  on  poles  and  posts. 

The  Sand  Springs  in  White  Oaks  village  (55.5),  to  the  left 
of  the  highway,  have  been  valued  highly  for  rheumatic  and 
kidney  troubles  ever  since  the  days  of  the  Mohicans,  and  a 
sanitarium  has  long  been  established  here. 

The  surface  water  descends  to  a  depth  of  1500  feet  through  the  ver- 
tical crevices  of  the  quartzite  upheaval  above  mentioned,  returning 
at  a  constant  temperature  of  74°,  charged  with  gases  similar  to  those 
of  the  Hot  Springs  of  Arkansas  and  Carlsbad.  There  is  an  Indian 
cemetery  here  where  relics  are  still  found.  From  1781  to  1827  many 
negro  slaves  from  New  York  State  took  refuge  on  the  banks  of  Broad 
Brook,  stimulating  the  already  growing  local  antipathy  to  slavery. 

Turning  to  the  right  just  beyond  the  Springs  the  road  crosses 
the  river  and  passes  under  R.R.,  climbing  a  slight  grade  into 

57.0  WILLIAMSTOWN.  Alt  595  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3708  (1910),  3981 
(1915).  Berkshire  Co.  Settled  1749.  Mfg.  cotton,  woolens, 
and  corduroy. 

Williamstown,  the  home  of  Williams  College,  is  a  pleasant 
residential  village  on  the  Hoosic  and  Green  rivers  in  the  midst 
of  beautiful  scenery.  Hawthorne's  dictum,  "Like  a  day- 
dream to  look  at,"  written  in  1838,  holds  to  this  day.  The 
long  Main  Street  runs  east  and  west,  undulating  over  a  succes- 
sion of  knolls,  bordered  with  broad  stretches  of  lawn  and  stately 
elms  in  the  midst  of  which  are  the  college  buildings  of  creamy 
gray  stone  and  brick  with  broad  vistas  between.  The  village  is 
but  a  fringe  about  the  college.  The  manufacturing  plants  are 
a  mile  north,  at  the  junction  of  the  Green  and  Hoosic  rivers. 

The  Field  Memorial  Park  at  the  western  end  of  Main  St. 
was  laid  out  by  Frederick  Law  Olmsted  and  is  named  in  honor 
of  Cyrus  W.  Field,  a  Williams  student,  of  the  noted  Field  fam- 
ily of  Stockbridge  (p  250),  and  the  organizer  of  the  Atlantic 
Telegraph  Company,  that  laid  the  first  transatlantic  cable. 
About  the  year  1874  he  gave  $10,000  for  the  purpose  of  beau- 
tifying the  streets  of  the  town.  The  first  school  house,  a  log 
structure  built  in  1763,  occupied  the  site  of  the  Hotel  Greylock, 


R.    15   §    I.     ALBANY   TO   WILLIAMSTOWN  407 

on  the  corner  of  Main  and  North  Sts.  It  also  served  as  a  town 
hall  and  meeting  house.  On  the  opposite  side  of  North  St. 
was  the  fort  and  stockade  of  1756. 

In  Mission  Park,  reached  by  way  of  Park  St.,  is  the  Hay- 
stack Monument,  commemorating  a  prayer  meeting  of  August, 
1806,  held  by  five  students  who  took  refuge  here  from  a  thun- 
der-shower, under  the  lee  of  a  haystack.  The  American 
Mission  movement  dates  from  this  impromptu  service  which 
led  to  the  organization  of  the  Society  of  United  Brethren. 

West  College,  built  in  1790  and  remodeled  in  1854,  the  old- 
est of  the  college  buildings,  is  on  the  south  side  of  Main  St., 
nearly  opposite  Park  St.  Room  n,  near  the  northeast  corner 
of  the  third  floor,  was  occupied  by  William  Cullen  Bryant. 
Opposite  is  the  mansion  of  the  president  of  the  college,  and 
standing  back  from  the  street  beyond  West  College  are  the 
laboratory  buildings,  one  of  the  many  gifts  of  the  late  Fred- 
erick F.  Thompson,  a  New  York  banker  of  the  class  of  1856. 
On  the  same  side  of  the  road,  at  the  summit  of  a  little  knoll  at 
the  corner  of  Spring  St.,  is  Morgan  Hall,  and  opposite  is  the 
beautiful  Congregational  Church,  one  of  the  most  perfect  of 
Christopher  Wren  meeting  houses'  in  New  England.  Behind 
the  church,  a  hundred  yards  from  the  street,  is  Grace  Hall,  the 
classic  portico  of  cool  gray  stone  contrasting  with  its  own  red 
brick  and  that  of  Williams  Hall,  a  dormitory  still  further  to 
the  north.  These  two  buildings  are  the  latest  additions  to  the 
college,  in  the  modern  academic  style.  To  the  right  of  Grace 
Hall  is  the  chapter  house  of  the  Sigma  Phi  Fraternity,  moved 
here  from  Albany,  where  it  was  the  manor  house  of  the  Van 
Rensselaer  family. 

On  the  eastern  corner  of  Main  and  Spring  Sts.  is  the  gymna- 
sium with  a  clock  tower  from  which  the  chimes  sound  the  hour 
and  the  quarters  in  an  unusual  cadence.  Next  door  is  the 
old  chapel,  and  then  East  College,  with  the  old  Hopkins  Ob- 
servatory, built  of  stone  quarried  from  the  quartzite  ledges  of 
the  neighboring  hills,  at  the  far  end  of  its  greensward  quad- 
rangle on  the  next  hilltop.  Across  Main  St.  is  the  Memorial 
Chapel,  in  memory  of  Williams'  benefactor,  Frederick  F. 
Thompson.  It  is  a  well-proportioned  Gothic  church  with  a 
tower  that  is  a  model  of  its  kind.  In  front  is  a  monument  to 
the  Williams  students  who  died  in  the  Civil  War.  To  the  left 
of  the  chapel  is  Hopkins  Hall,  named  in  honor  of  Mark  Hop- 
kins, Williams'  greatest  president,  and  to  the  right  is  Griffin 
Hall,  the  handsomest  of  the  older  buildings.  The  steep  as- 
cent from  the  east  was  called  'Consumption  Hill,'  from  a  say- 
ing of  President  Griffin,  the  builder  of  the  hall,  that  the  con- 
sumptive tendencies  of  many  a  student  had  been  cured  by 


408  WILLIAMSTOWN 

the  deep  breathing  resulting  from  hurrying  up  the  hill  to 
prayers. 

Torrey's  Woods,  through  which  there  is  a  pleasant  drive, 
lie  to  the  south  of  the  town.  On  Bee  Hill,  to  the  west,  in  a 
farmhouse  just  above  Flora's  Glen,  Hamilton  Gibson  wrote 
"Sharp  Eyes."  A  mile  southwest  of  the  town,  by  the  north 
flank  of  Bee  Hill,  is  Flora's  Glen,  beloved  of  Bryant. 

Behind  Bee  Hill  rises  Berlin  Mountain,  the  highest  point  in 
this  section  of  the  Taconic  ridge.  A  road  over  the  mountain 
leads  to  the  village  of  Berlin,  N.Y.,  where  hundreds  of  varieties 
of  gladioli  are  grown  at  Meadowvale  Farm,  the  property  of 
Arthur  Cowee.  On  the  eastern  side  of  the  valley  are  Greylock, 
the  State's  highest  peak  (p  410),  and  the  Hopper  (p  256). 

The  township  of  Williamstown,  originally  called  West  Hoosac,  was 
established  by  the  General  Court  in  1749  and  the  village  laid  out  sev- 
eral years  later.  Main  Street  was  laid  out  in  1750,  fifteen  rods  wide,  from 
the  Green  river  bridge  westward  over  four  hills  to  Buxton  Brook. 
Fort  Hoosac  was  built  in  1756  on  Main  St.,  just  west  of  North  St. 

One  of  the  first  landholders  was  Colonel  Ephraim  Williams,  Jr.,  later 
commander  of  Fort  Massachusetts  nearby,  who  was  killed  at  the  Bat- 
tle of  Lake  George  in  1755.  Lamenting  "his  want  of  a  liberal  educa- 
tion," he  left  a  bequest  on  which  augmented  by  a  lottery  to  upward 
of  $72,500  the  Williams  Free  'School  was  built  in  1790  and  named 
Williams  College  in  1793.  The  town  was  named  for  him  in  compliance 
with  a  proviso  in  his  will.  The  founder  perished  in  the  skirmish  pre- 
ceding the  Battle  of  Lake  George,  in  1755.  His  memory  is  kept  green 
among  the  students  by  the  following  toast: 

"Oh,  here's  to  the  health  of  Eph  Williams, 

Who  founded  a  school  in  Billville, 

And  when  he  was  scalped  by  the  Indians, 

He  left  us  his  boodle  by  will. 

And  here's  to  old  Fort  Massachusetts, 

And  here's  to  the  old  Mohawk  Trail, 

And  here's  to  historical  Pe-ri 

Who  grinds  out  his  sorrowful  tale." 

The  last  lines  refer  to  the  Williams  historian,  Prof.  A.  L.  Perry,  father 
of  Bliss  Perry,  who  occupies  the  chair  of  James  Russell  Lowell  at 
Harvard;  another  son  is  Principal  of  Phillips  Exeter  Academy. 

In  1836  Mark  Hopkins  was  elected  President  of  Williams  College 
and  held  office  until  1887,  for  thirty-six  years.  He  is  widely  recog- 
nized as  one  of  the  foremost  American  educators,  whose  method  of 
stirring  the  creative  and  meditative  faculties  of  his  pupils,  in  the  man- 
ner of  Plato,  was  an  innovation.  James  A.  Garfield,  one  of  Williams' 
famous  alumni,  said  in  a  speech  just  before  his  election  to  the  Presi- 
dency of  the  United  States,  "  Give  me  a  log  with  Mark  Hopkins  sit- 
ting upon  one  end  of  it  and  myself  upon  the  other,  and  that  is  college 
enough  for  me." 

President  Hopkins  said  of  the  graduates  of  Williams,  "They  have 
come  from  the  yeomanry  of  the  country,  from  the  plough  and  the 
workshop,  with  clear  heads,  and  firm  nerves,  and  industrious  habits, 
and  unperverted  tastes — in  need,  it  may  be,  of  polish,  but  susceptible 
of  the  highest." 

This  rustic  simplicity  vanished  with  the  forgotten  Gravel  and  Chip 
Days,  when  the  students  hauled  gravel  for  the  college  walks  in  the 
fall,  and  later  raked  up  the  litter  about  their  woodpiles,  where  they 


R.   15  §   2.     WILLIAMSTOWN   TO   GREENFIELD  409 


had  sawn  and  split  the  winter's  fuel.  Mountain  Day  is  still  observed; 
as  in  the  time  of  Professor  Albert  Hopkins,  Mark  Hopkins'  brother, 
students  climb  to  the  top  of  Greylock  and  stay  overnight  to  watch  the 
sunrise.  Probably  this  custom  called  forth  the  epigram  of  Thoreau: 

"It  were  as  well  to  be  educated  in  the  shadow  of  a  mountain  as  in 
more  classic  shades.  Some  will  remember,  no  doubt,  not  only  that 
they  went  to  the  college,  but  that  they  went  to  the  mountain." 

Among  the  prominent  alumni  of  Williams  are  William  Cullen  Bry- 
ant, James  A.  Garfield,  whose  son,  of  the  Class  of  1885,  is  now  President 
of  the  college;  Mark  Hopkins;  William  Dwight  Whitney,  the  scholar 
and  lexicographer;  the  Sedgwicks;  the  Fields  of  Stockbridge;  Amos 
Eaton,  the  geologist  and  botanist;  Washington  Gladden;  and  G. 
Stanley  Hall,  the  psychologist. 


R.  15  §  2.  Williamstown  to  Greenfield.  42.0  m. 

Via  NORTH  ADAMS  and  the  MOHAWK  TRAIL. 

The  route  continues  up  the  Hoosic  valley  to  North  Adams 
and  there  crosses  Hoosac  Mountain  by  the  Mohawk  Trail, 
descending  the  Deerfield  valley  to  Greenfield. 

The  direct  road  to  North  Adams,  a  State  Highway  with  red 
markers,  follows  Main  St.  eastward  across  the  Green  river. 

Note.  An  alternate  route,  via  Cole  Ave.,  over  R.R.  and  to 
the  right,  through  the  village  of  Blackinton,  is  a  longer  road 
and  not  in  such  good  condition. 

Leaving  Williamstown  the  State  Road  traverses  the  eastern 
end  of  the  rich  alluvial  plain  between  Bald  Mountain  (2200  ft) 
on  the  north,  the  southernmost  spur  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
and  Prospect  Mountain  (2600  ft),  to  the  south.  In  front,  to 
the  east,  is  Hoosac  Mountain,  the  "Forbidden  Mountain," 
rising  like  an  impassable  wall  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the 
chimneys  of  North  Adams.  Upon  nearing  the  little  industrial 
village  of  Braytonville  (3.0),  Mt.  Williams  stands  out  from 
Prospect,  like  its  twin.  The  two  domes  are  symmetrical  and 
of  almost  equal  height,  rising  about  1600  feet  above  the 
valley. 

In  a  field  (3.5)  between  the  road  and  the  R.R.,  as  the  road 
curves  left,  an  elm  and  a  flagstaff  mark  the  site  of  old  Fort 
Massachusetts,  built  in  1744. 

Edward  Everett,  the  orator,  called  it  the  'Thermopylae  of  New 
England,'  referring  to  the  incident  of  1746  when  goo  French  and 
Indians  stormed  it  for  forty-eight  hours  and  only  secured  its  surrender 
when  every  grain  of  powder  was  exhausted.  The  captives  were  taken 
to  Lake  George,  but  a  new  garrison  soon  occupied  it  under  Colonel 
Williams,  and  held  it  for  three  years.  It  was  in  1744  during  King 
George's  War  that  Governor  William  Shirley  ordered  a  cordon  of  forts 
built  at  intervals  of  six  or  eight  miles  between  Fort  Dummer,  on  the 
Connecticut,  and  the  upper  Hoosic  river.  Fort  Massachusetts  was 
one  of  these.  It  was  built  60  feet  square,  the  wall  12  feet  high  and 
14  inches  thick  constructed  of  pine  logs  on  a  stone  foundation.  Close 
by  is  the  old  Mohawk  Ford,  where  the  Indian  trail  crossed  the  river. 


410  NORTH  ADAMS 

5.0  NORTH  ADAMS.  Alt  1000  ft.  Pop  22,019.  Berkshire  Co. 
Settled  1751.  Mfg.  prints  and  other  cotton  goods,  woolens, 
shoes,  lime,  and  foundry  products. 

North  Adams  is  a  modern  industrial  town  at  the  junction 
of  the  branches  of  the  Hoosic  river,  which  furnishes  power  for 
its  industries,  including  the  Arnold  Print  Works,  the  Windsor 
Print  Works,  several  cotton  and  woolen  mills,  and  three  large 
shoe  plants.  The  opening  of  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  in  1874  gave 
a  commercial  impetus  to  the  town  perpetuated  in  its  slogan, 
"We  hold  the  Western  Gateway."  The  Normal  School  and 
Mark  Hopkins  Training  School  have  a  high  reputation.  Here, 
as  at  Pittsfield,  balloon  ascensions  have  been  frequent. 

On  the  hillsides  about,  the  shore  line  of  an  ancient  lake 
may  be  plainly  traced  which  extended  from  Stamford,  Vt.,  to 
Williamstown.  A  mile  northeast  of  the  town  on  Hudson's 
Brook  is  the  natural  bridge,  45  feet  high  and  10  feet  wide. 
Hawthorne  often  bathed  here  during  his  visit  in  the  summer 
of  1838,  and  thus  described  it: 

"The  cave  makes  a  fresh  impression  upon  me  every  time  I  visit  it, 
— so  deep,  so  irregular,  so  gloomy,  so  stern;  part  of  its  walls  the  pure 
white  of  the  marble,  others  covered  with  a  gray  decomposition  and  with 
spots  of  moss,  and  with  brake  growing  where  there  is  a  handful  of 
earth.  I  stand  and  look  into  its  depths  at  various  points,  and  hear 
the  roar  of  the  stream  re-echoing  up.  It  is  like  a  heart  that  has  been 
rent  asunder  by  a  torrent  of  passion,  which  has  raged  and  foamed, 
and  left  its  ineffaceable  traces;  though  now  there  is  but  a  little  rill  of 
feeling  at  the  bottom." 

South  of  the  town,  at  the  head  of  the  Notch,  between  Grey- 
lock  and  Ragged  Mountain,  is  the  Bellowspipe,  a  gap  in  the 
hills  from  which,  when  the  wind  sets  in  the  right  quarter,  a 
hoarse,  rumbling  roar  echoes  over  North  Adams,  dreaded  by 
the  Indians  as  the  voice  of  the  angry  Manitou. 

The  summit  of  Greylock  is  reached  by  a  good  road,  nine 
miles  long,  through  the  Notch,  and  also  by  an  automobile 
road  from  Lanesboro  (p  254).  The  view  from  the  forty-foot 
observation  tower  includes  the  White  Mountains,  Great  Blue 
Hill  at  Boston,  the  Catskills,  and  the  Adirondacks.  About 
9000  acres  surrounding  the  summit  is  a  State  Reservation;  at 
the  Superintendent's  lodge  meals  and  limited  accommodations 
for  the  night  are  provided.  "The  serious  mountain,"  as 
Emerson  called  Greylock,  has  been  climbed  by  Marion  Craw- 
ford, Fanny  Kemble,  Hawthorne,  Thoreau,  and  many  other 
celebrities.  Gray  Lock  was  the  name  of  the  grim  old  War- 
ranoke  chieftain  who  before  King  Philip's  War,  according  to 
tradition,  lived  near  Westfield,  but  after  the  dispersion  of  the 
tribes  made  his  headquarters  on  Lake  Champlain,  whence 
through  the  Hoosac  valley  he  raided  the  settlements. 

Ephraim  Williams  here  built  a  sawmill  and  a  grist  mill  at  the  meeting 
of  the  branches  of  the  Hoosic,  and  the  neighborhood  was  known  as 


R.    15   §   2.      WILLIAMSTOWN   TO    GREENFIELD  411 

'Slab  City'  from  the  lumber  cut  here.  Forges  worked  the  iron  ore 
of  Greylock.  In  1860  the  iron  plates  of  the  "Monitor"  were  made 
here.  A  cotton  mill  was  built  in  1811,  one  of  the  first  in  the  country. 
A.  B.  Wilson  invented  his  sewing  machine  here  before  1850  and  placed 
it  on  the  market  as  the  Wheeler  and  Wilson  with  such  success  that 
in  1865  he  returned  with  his  profits  and  built  the  Wilson  House,  a  hotel. 
The  Hoosac  Tunnel,  four  and  three  quarters  miles  in  length  and 
therefore  the  longest  upon  this  continent,  was  commenced  as  a  private 
enterprise  in  1853  and  after  much  financial  stress  was  completed  by 
the  Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts  in  1874  at  a  cost  of  195  lives  and 
over  $20,000,000.  The  work  was  carried  on  from  four  different  head- 
ings at  once,  yet  there  was  but  five  sixteenths  of  an  inch  discrepancy 
when  the  headings  met.  Electric  traction  is  now  used. 

A  mile  east  of  North  Adams,  Hoosac  Mountain  rises  in  a  bold 
rampart.  Until  1914  there  was  but  an  indifferent  stage  road 
over  it,  which  made  automobile  travel  impracticable.  The 
so-called  Mohawk  Trail,  a  State  Highway,  opened  in  1915, 
is  well  built,  with  an  oiled  macadam  surface  and  no  grades 
exceeding  seven  per  cent.  The  grades,  however,  are  long, 
and  water  tanks  should  be  filled  before  starting.  This  new 
road  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  New  England  and  dis- 
closes wonderful  views.  The  State  expended  $250,000  on  its 
construction,  which  took  two  years. 

It  was  over  this  road  that  the  warlike  Mohawks  invaded  New 
England  territory  and  subdued  the  New  England  tribes.  In  1663  the 
Greenfield  river  tribe  of  Pocumtucks  used  this  same  trail  in  their  re- 
taliatory raid  upon  the  Mohawks.  The  Dutch  traders  at  Albany, 
the  following  year,  sought  to  end  such  raids  by  a  treaty  of  peace  be- 
tween the  warring  nations,  but  the  assassination  of  a  Mohawk  chief, 
who  followed  this  trail  to  Pocumtuck  to  ratify  the  treaty,  caused  a 
revival  of  the  feud.  The  old  Indian  trail  was,  in  the  opinion  of  the 
highway  engineers,  somewhat  to  the  south  of  the  present  road. 

Leaving  Main  St.  at  the  red  brick  Baptist  Church  on  the 
left  the  route  turns  left  on  Eagle  St.  and  right  on  Union  St., 
following  red-banded  poles  and  posts.  Half  a  mile  beyond  at 
the  fork  bear  right,  away  from  the  trolley,  up  a  steep  grade,  at 
which  point  the  new  oiled  macadam  road  surface  begins. 

At  the  Clarksburg  hairpin  turn  (9.0),  which  is  only  two  miles 
from  the  Vermont  border,  there  is  a  magnificent  view  to  the 
north  and  west  into  the  Green  Mountains.  At  the  top  of  the 
ascent  at  an  elevation  of  2000  feet  we  look  upon  North  Adams, 
1000  feet  below,  and  Greylock  and  the  valley  of  the  southern 
Hoosac  beyond.  No  other  highway  in  the  State  can  equal  in 
natural  grandeur  the  views  from  this  road. 

In  the  saucer-like  valley  extending  southward  from  the  road 
is  the  little  hamlet  of  Florida.  Here  is  the  central  shaft  of  the 
Hoosac  Tunnel.  When  in  1867  this  had  been  sunk  to  a  depth 
of  583  feet,  an  explosion  of  a  tank  of  gasoline  caused  the  death 
of  thirteen  men  at  the  bottom  of  the  shaft,  and  it  was  not  until 
a  year  later  that  their  bodies  were  recovered. 


412  NORTH   ADAMS— SHELBURNE   FALLS 

The  State  Road  here  follows  the  old  stage  route  to  Whit- 
combs  Summit  (13.0),  whence  we  look  down  1000  feet  and 
more  into  the  depths  of  the  Deerfield  valley.  The  eastern 
entrance  of  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  is  a  mile  to  the  left.  Trains 
through  the  tunnel  are  now  operated  by  electricity  from 
Power  Plant  No.  5  of  ttye  N.E.  Power  Company,  which  is 
about  three  miles  above  the  tunnel  entrance.  The  water 
diverted  from  the  Deerfield  river  by  a  3o-foot  dam  is  carried 
by  canal  to  where  under  a  2oo-foot  head  it  develops  20,000 
h.p.  The  high  tension  transmission  lines  seen  at  the  right 
carry  power  to  North  Adams  and  Pittsfield  from  the  electric 
plants  on  the  Deerfield  river.  There  is  an  extended  view 
to  Mt.  Monadnock  and  the  New  Hampshire  hills.  This  is 
one  of  the  points  where  one  may  well  appreciate  what  is 
meant  by  the  New  England  peneplain,  for  looking  in  every 
direction  we  see  the  hilltops  reaching  a  common  level,  be- 
tween which  have  been  carved  out  the  deep  valleys.  On  rare 
occasions  the  White  Mountains  are  glimpsed.  The  Deerfield 
valley  itself  has  been  eroded  to  a  depth  below  this  level  one 
fourth  that  of  the  Grand  Canyon.  Hawthorne,  viewing  this 
scene  in  1838,  wrote: 

"...  peaks  from  one  to  two  thousand  feet  high  rush  up  on  either 
bank  of  the  river  in  ranges,  thrusting  out  their  shoulders  side  by  side. 
Sometimes  the  precipice  rises  with  abruptness  from  the  immediate  side 
of  the  river;  sometimes  there  is  a  valley  on  either  side;  cultivated  long 
and  with  all  the  smoothness  and  antique  rurality  of  a  farm  near  cities, 
this  gentle  picture  is  strongly  set  off  by  the  wild  mountain  frame 
around  it.  I  have  never  driven  through  such  romantic  scenery, 
where  there  was  such  variety  and  boldness  of  mountain  shapes  as 
this;  and  though  it  was  a  sunny  day,  the  mountains  diversified  the 
view  with  sunshine  and  shadow,  and  glory  and  gloom." 

The  road  descends  gently  at  first  and  then  more  steeply 
with  many  curves,  successively  beside  Whitcombs  Brook  and 
Manning  Brook,  and  along  the  gorge  of  Cold  River,  entering 
the  valley  of  the  Deerfield  river  (21.5)  at  an  elevation  of  about 
600  feet.  The  road  crosses  the  R.R.  and  the  river,  the  latter 
by  a  concrete  bridge  just  below  the  old  Mohawk  Ford.  To 
the  right  of  the  road  is  the  site  of  Hawkes  Fort  and  to  the  left, 
a  little  beyond,  the  larger  Rice  Fort,  which  were  built  in  1754 
by  Colonel  Ephraim  Williams  to  guard  the  ford  and  the  trail. 
A  monument  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  commemorates 
Captain  Moses  and  Phineas  Rice,  who  were  here  killed  by 
Indians  in  1755  while  at  work  in  a  meadow  nearby.  Even  in 
this  narrow  upper  portion  of  the  Deerfield  valley  wherever  the 
river  has  left  a  shelf  of  silt  agricultural  products  thrive,  for  the 
air  drainage  protects  the  crops  from  early  and  late  frosts.  In 
these  hills  is  the  so-called  'apple  valley,'  where  a  long-forgotten 
orchard  flourished  valiantly  without  culture  for  decades. 


R.    15  §   2.     WILLIAMSTOWN  TO   GREENFIELD 


413 


24.0  CHARLEMONT.  Alt  590  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1001  (1910),  977 
(1915).  Franklin  Co.  Settled  1765.  Mfg.  maple  sugar 
and  wooden  ware. 

This  quiet  mountain  village  is  on  a  terrace  north  of  the 
Deerfield,  at  the  mouth  of  Mill  Brook,  with  Mt.  Peak  (1660  ft) 
to  the  southwest,  and  Bald  Mountain  (1375  ft)  to  the  north- 
east. Near  the  center  of  the  village  is  the  boyhood  home  of 
Charles  Dudley  Warner,  marked  by  a  large  buttonwood  at  the 
roadside.  In  his  "Being  a  Boy"  he  describes  delightfully 
scenes  and  experiences  in  and  about  this  village. 

In  Colonial  days  this  was  a  fortified  post,  and  five  miles  up  Mill 
Brook,  at  Heath,  was  Fort  Shirley,  one  of  the  chain  of  forts  guarding 
the  trail  between  the  Connecticut  and  Hoosic  valleys,  built  in  1744. 


THE  BOYHOOD  HOME  OF  CHARLES  DUDLEY  WARNER 

The  road  continues  along  the  north  bank  of  the  river  straight 
through  Charlemont  and  East  Charlemont,  turning  right  and 
crossing  the  river  seven  and  a  half  miles  below,  where  the  river 
makes  a  sharp  bend.  Here  a  dam  diverts  the  water  through 
a  isoo-foot  tunnel  to  Plant  No.  4  of  the  N.E.  Power  Company. 
The  head  is  64  feet,  developing  8000  h.p. 

33.0  SHELBURNE  FALLS  Alt  430  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1498  (1910),  1484 
(1915).  Franklin  Co.  Inc.  1768.  Mfg.  cutlery,  cotton,  and 
tools;  electric  power. 

Shelburne  Falls,  'The  Town  of  Tumbling  Water,'  is  the 
center  of  the  hydro-electric  plants  of  the  New  England  Power 
Company,  their  separate  developments  taking  the  water  of 
the  Deerfield  at  five  levels,  four  plants  being  situated  in  or 
near  the  town,  with  a  total  installed  capacity  of  40,00x3  k.w. 


414  SHELBURNE   FALLS— TURNERS   FALLS 

Power  from  these  stations  operates  trains  through  the  Hoosac 
Tunnel  and  is  carried  over  high  tension  transmission  lines  as 
far  east  as  Fitchburg,  Worcester,  and  Providence,  and  west 
to  Pittsfield  and  Bennington.  The  three  falls  in  Shelburne 
township  aggregate  about  150  feet.  They  were  first  known  as 
Salmon  Falls  from  the  quantities  of  those  fish  that  collected  in 
the  pools  below  in  the  spawning  season. 

Hawthorne  in  1838  wrote  of  the  falls: 

"Here  the  river,  in  a  distance  of  a  few  hundred  yards,  makes  a 
descent  of  about  150  feet  over  a  prodigious  bed  of  rock.  The  river 
roars  through  a  channel  which  it  has  worn  in  the  stone,  leaping  in  two 
or  three  distinct  falls,  and  rushes  downward,  as  from  flight  to  flight  of 
a  broken  and  irregular  staircase;  the  rocks  seem  to  have  been  hewn 
away,  as  when  mortals  make  a  road." 

Yale  locks  were  first  made  here  by  Linus  Yale,  their  inventor, 
before  the  removal  of  the  plant  to  Stamford.  The  Lamson 
&  Goodnow  Company  have  manufactured  table  cutlery  here 
since  1837,  the  H.  H.  Mayhew  Company,  small  mechanics' 
tools  for  half  a  century  (see  p  800),  also  the  Goodell  Company 
since  1893.  The  cotton  mills  of  the  Griswoldville  Manufactur- 
ing Company  and  the  cider  and  vinegar  works  of  W.  W.  Gary  & 
Sons,  in  Colerain  nearby,  are  the  other  local  industries. 

An  excellent  path  leads  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Massaemett  (1690 
ft),  a  mile  east  of  the  town.  On  the  summit  is  a  sixty-foot 
stone  tower  used  as  a  forest  observatory.  The  view  com- 
mands the  valley  of  the  Deerfield  river  as  well  as  the  descent 
to  Greenfield  and  the  Connecticut  valley.  The  round  trip  to 
the  tower  may  be  easily  made  on  foot  in  four  hours,  allowing 
an  hour's  rest.  At  the  foot  of  the  falls  are  some  fine  pot- 
holes and  in  the  hillsides  are  the  'catamount  dens.' 

The  road  turns  right  at  the  eastern  end  of  Bridge  St.  and 
passes  on  the  right  Alice  Brown's  Tea  Room  and  Maple  Sweet- 
heart Shop  (see  p  800).  It  climbs  round  the  southern  end  of 
Mt.  Massaemett  above  the  river.  In  the  valley  below,  three 
miles  below  Shelburne  Falls,  is  the  concrete  dam  and  the 
power  station  of  Plant  No.  2  of  the  New  England  Power  Com- 
pany, with  a  head  of  sixty  feet.  Two  miles  further  down  at 
Bard  well's  Bridge  will  be  located  Plant  No.  i. 

The  highway  turns  away  from  the  river  through  the  little 
village  of  Shelburne  in  the  valley  of  Dragon  Brook,  where  was 
the  original  settlement  called  "Deerfield  North-West."  The 
town  was  named  in  honor  of  the  second  Earl  of  Shelburne. 
Thence  the  highway  ascends  to  an  altitude  of  700  feet,  over  the 
southern  slope  of  Greenfield  Mountain,  thence  descending 
rapidly,  crossing  Green  River  and  entering  on  Shelburne  and 
Main  Sts.,  meeting  Route  10  in  the  center  of 

42.0    GREENFIELD  (R.10,p319). 


R.    15    §   3.     GREENFIELD   TO   BOSTON  415 

R.  15  §  3.  Greenfield  to  Boston.  98.5  m. 

Via  GARDNER,  FITCHBURG,  AVER,  CONCORD,  and  CAMBRIDGE. 

The  route  leads  through  naturally  attractive  country  in  the 
valleys  of  which,  wherever  waterpower  has  been  available, 
have  grown  up  industrial  centers.  Athol,  Gardner,  Fitchburg 
are  manufacturing  towns  each  with  its  specialty  or  diversity 
of  industries.  The  course  thence  into  Boston  leads  over  the 
historic  ground  of  Concord  and  Lexington,  the  mecca  of  all 
tourists  to  New  England. 

This  route  is  State  Road  throughout  its  length,  marked,  like 
all  east  and  west  State  Highways  in  Massachusetts,  by  red 
bands  on  telegraph  poles  at  all  points  of  doubt. 

From  Greenfield  to  Turners  Falls  alternative  routes  are 
available,  both  affording  State  Road  most  of  the  way.  The 
southern  route  (the  longer,  3.5)  leaves  by  Deerfield  St.  to 
Cheapside,  avoids  crossing  Deerfield  River,  turns  to  the  left 
by  the  Montague  City  Road,  underpasses  R.R.,  and  crosses 
the  Connecticut  by  a  long  covered  bridge,  to  Montague 
City  and  Turners  Falls. 

The  northern  route,  the  Mountain  Road,  leaves  Greenfield 
from  the  park,  east  on  Main  St.,  turning  sharp  to  the  left  into 
High  St.  On  the  left  is  a  fine  Colonial  brick  house,  on  the  right 
the  hospital.  The  route  ascends,  skirting  the  base  of  Rocky 
Mountain,  a  steep  ridge  of  forest-crowned  rock  overlooking 
the  valley.  The  square  tower  is  at  Poet's  Seat  (p  320).  Bear- 
ing to  the  right  a  broad  view  of  the  Connecticut  discloses  itself. 
The  route  descends  with  a  view  of  Turners  Falls  beyond  the 
river.  The  electric  transmission  line  running  down  the  valley 
carries  power  generated  at  the  Turners  Falls  plant  just  above. 
The  road  crosses  the  river  by  a  suspension  bridge  and  beyond 
the  canal  ascends  to  the  left  to 

3.0  TURNERS  FALLS.  Alt  187  ft.  Pop  (Montague  twp)  6866 
(1910),  7925  (1915).  Franklin  Co.  Mfg.  cutlery , paper ,  cot- 
ton, lumber,  machinery. 

Turners  Falls  is  a  busy  manufacturing  town  and  the  cutlery 
center  of  New  England.  It  is  one  of  the  more  recently  devel- 
oped manufacturing  towns  of  Massachusetts.  A  dam  and 
canal  were  built  here  in  1792  to  aid  in  the  navigation  of  the 
river.  The  canal  tolls  here  amounted  to  $10,500  in  the  year 
1844.  In  1866  the  Turners  Falls  Company  bought  700  acres 
and  built  a  curved  dam  1000  feet  long.  The  fall  of  thirty-six 
feet  affords  a  valuable  waterpower  producing  40,000  h.p.  in 
electricity  alone.  Just  above  the  town  the  river  pushes  be- 
tween the  hills  and  then  is  joined  by  Millers  River. 

The  sandstone  along  the  river  bed  is  famous  for  fossil  rep- 
tilian foot  tracks,  popularly  known  as  'bird  tracks,'  because 


416  TURNERS   FALLS— ATHOL 

so  many  of  them  are  three-toed,  suggestive  of  a  bird.  Dis- 
covered by  Dexter  Marsh  and  Dr.  James  Deane  of  Greenfield, 
they  attracted  the  attention  of  President  Hitchcock,  who 
formed  a  large  collection  of  them  in  the  museum  of  Amherst 
College.  He  believed  them  tracks  of  birds,  but  in  the  Trias- 
sic  time  when  these  imprints  were  made  no  birds  were  yet  in 
existence.  Many  of  these  reptilians  were,  however,  largely 
bipedal  in  their  locomotion.  One  of  the  most  famous  locali- 
ties is  Stoughton's  Bird-Track  Quarry,  north  of  Turners  Falls 
to  the  east  of  Factory  Hollow,  where  the  tracks  may  be  seen 
in  the  living  rock. 

This  was  an  important  fishing  resort  of  the  Indians  who  took  salmon 
as  they  came  upstream.  Here  occurred  a  "Great  Falls  Fight"  in 
1676  when  a  camp  of  Pocumtucks,  gathered  here  to  preserve  fish,  was 
attacked  in  the  early  dawn  by  a  company  of  140  volunteers  from  Had- 
ley  and  Northampton  under  Captain  Turner.  The  retreat  became 
a  panic  and  Captain  Turner  and  thirty-eight  of  his  men  were  killed 
while  many  wounded  and  stragglers  were  cut  off.  A  tablet  now  marks 
the  supposed  grave  of  Turner  and  the  site  of  the  "Great  Falls  Fight." 

From  Turners  Falls  the  route,  with  red  markers,  ascends  and 
runs  along  the  bluff  above  the  gorge  of  the  Connecticut  known 
as  The  Narrows,  and  a  little  highei  up  the  Horse  Race. 

7.5  MILLERS  FALLS.  Alt  300  ft.  (Part  of  Erving  twp.)  Frank- 
lin Co.  Indian  name  Pequoiag.  Mfg.  artificial  stone,  hard- 
ware, and  paper. 

The  village  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Central  Vermont  and 
B.  &  M.  Railways,  and  in  the  old  stage  coach  days  was  known 
as  Grout's  Corner,  from  the  hotel  keeper.  Its  development  as 
a  manufacturing  center  began  in  1869.  The  route  crosses 
Millers  River  and  runs  at  an  elevation  of  500  feet  above  the 
gorge,  which  is  here  deep  and  narrow,  passing  through  the 
hamlet  of  Farley,  named  for  the  builders  of  a  factory  here  in 
1883.  There  are  paper,  pulp,  and  knitting  mills.  Three 
quarters  of  a  mile  beyond  is  Hermit  Rock. 

14.0  ERVING.  Alt  500  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1148  (1910),  1168  (1915). 
Franklin  Co.  Inc.  1838.  Mfg.  furniture,  paper,  and  pulp. 

The  town  was  named  for  John  Erving,  a  Boston  merchant 
who  purchased  land  here  in  1750.  There  are  several  factories. 

The  route  now  runs  along  the  course  of  the  river  through 
Wendell  Depot  and  West  Orange  to 

19.0  ORANGE.  Alt  505  ft.  Pop  (twp)  5282  (1910),  5374  (1915). 
Franklin  Co.  Inc.  1783.  Mfg.  waterpower  turbines,  valves, 
and  waterpower  machinery,  tools,  sewing  machines,  tapioca, 
foundry  and  machine  shop  products. 

Orange  is  an  industrial  town  with  several  metal  manufac- 
tories. Among  the  important  industries  are  the  New  Home 
Sewing  Machine  Company,  established  1862,  the  Rodney 
Hunt  Machine  Company,  the  Chase  Turbine  Company,  and 


R.    15  §  3.     GREENFIELD   TO   BOSTON  417 

the  Minute  Tapioca  Company.  Charles  Grout  of  Orange 
invented  one  of  the  first  steam  automobiles  in  the  country, 
which  he  manufactured  here  for  a  time,  and  later  built  gaso- 
line cars,  but  the  firm  went  out  of  business  some  five  years  ago. 

Not  far  from  the  central  square  of  the  town  is  the  new  Town 
Hall,  on  the  lower  floor  of  which  is  a  small  collection  of  Colonial 
antiquities  and  Indian  relics.  The  library  was  given  to  the 
town  by  the  widow  of  the  late  John  Wheeler,  whose  large 
mansion  stands  just  beyond. 

The  route  continues  to  follow  the  red  markers  along  the 
valley  of  Millers  River,  passing  Brookside  Park,  a  summer 
amusement  place  two  miles  from  Orange. 

23.5  ATHOL.  Alt  550  ft.  Pop  (twp)  8536  (1910),  9783  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Settled  1735.  Indian  name  Paygauge. 
Mfg.  tools,  drills,  shoes,  toys  and  games,  combs,  and  blankets. 
Value  of  Product,  $4,891,000;  Payroll,  $1,522,000. 

Athol  is  a  modern  industrial  town  pleasantly  situated  in  the 
valley  and  on  the  hills  above  Millers  River.  It  is  best  known 
to  the  outside  world  as  the  home  of  the  great  Starrett  factory, 
a  unique  establishment,  making  more  than  2100  varieties  of 
mechanics'  tools,  sold  the  world  over  (p  Soo).  Many  of  these 
were  invented  or  devised  by  the  president  of  the  works.  The 
Union  Twist  Drill  Company  makes  drills  and  gear  cutters. 
The  Diamond  Match  Company's  plant  cuts  up  a  million  and 
a  half  feet  of  lumber  per  month  into  match  blocks.  Celluloid 
combs  and  novelties  are  manufactured  by  two  firms.  The 
European  war  has  given  an  impetus  to  local  industries  in 
the  production  of  tools  and  machines  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  guns  and  projectiles.  • 

Route  19  (p  449),  from  Providence  and  Worcester  to  Brat- 
tleboro  and  Lake  Champlain,  crosses  the  route  here.  South- 
ward it  is  marked  in  yellow. 

The  town  was  settled  in  1735  as  the  plantation  of  Pequoig  and  in- 
corporated in  1762.  It  was  named  by  Colonel  John  Murray  of  Rut- 
land, the  largest  landowner,  who  claimed  to  be  the  second  son  of  the 
Duke  of  Athol],  Scotland. 

The  drinking-fountain  on  the  Upper  Common,  a  mile  east  of  the 
business  center,  was  given  by  the  Twichell  family  as  a  memorial  to 
Ginery  Twichell,  a  stage  driver  of  Athol,  who  became  known  as  'The 
Unrivaled  Express  Driver.'  In  1846  when  the  Oregon  Question 
so  endangered  the  peace  of  England  and  America,  Sir  Robert  Peel 
was  returned  as  Prime  Minister,  which  insured  peace.  The  news 
reached  Boston,  where  the  New  York  papers  had  arranged  for  the 
quickest  possible  service  by  train,  but  Twichell,  riding  horseback 
through  the  snow  from  Worcester  to  Hartford  in  three  hours  and 
twenty  minutes  and  by  train  thence  to  New  York,  beat  the  time  of 
the  regular  trains  and  won  a  'scoop.' 

From  Athol  the  route  leaves  the  valley  of  Millers  River, 
bearing  to  the  right,  ascending  through  Athol  Center,  and  fol- 


418  ATHOL— FITCHBURG 

lowing  the  trolley  to  an  elevation  of  noo  feet.  At  Powers 
Mills  (29.0)  just  beyond  crossroads  at  fork  the  route  bears 
left  with  red  markers. 

Note.  The  right  fork  is  a  shorter  route  by  poorer  road 
through  Templeton,  a  chair  manufacturing  town,  East  Temple- 
ton,  and  South  Gardner  to  Gardner. 

From  Powers  Mills  the  route  descends  several  hundred  feet 
and  crossing  the  Otter  river  enters  Baldwinsville  (33.0).  At 
the  center  of  the  village,  turning  right,  the  road  passes  be- 
neath two  railroads  and  ascends  a  grade  to  the  Otter  river 
and  continues  over  rolling  country  to 

39.0  GARDNER.  Alt  1030  ft.  Pop  (twp)  14,699  (1910),  16,163 
(1915);  including  French  Canadians,  Poles,  Swedes,  Finns, 
and  Lithuanians.  Worcester  Co.  Inc.  1785.  Mfg.  chairs, 
baby  carriages,  toys,  furniture,  oil  stoves,  time  recorders, 
and  foundry  products.  Value  of  Product,  $7,342,298;  Pay- 
roll, $2,348,699. 

Gardner,  named  for  Colonel  Thomas  Gardner,  who  was 
mortally  wounded  in  the  Battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  is  a  thriving 
and  rapidly  growing  industrial  town  which  has  increased  its 
population  76  per  cent  in  the  last  twenty  years.  In  a  century 
it  has  become  the  greatest  chair  manufacturing  town  in  the 
world,  turning  out  annually  4,000,000  chairs  having  a  value 
of  $3,000,000.  The  industry  was  begun  by  James  Comee 
and  carried  on  by  Levi  Heywood  (1800-82),  who  invented 
various  kinds  of  chair-making  machinery,  and  its  develop- 
ment has  been  due  largely  to  the  enterprise  of  the  Hey- 
wood family,  though  there  are  some  twenty  factories  under 
independent  ownership.  The  Heywoods  and  others  have  done 
much  to  make  the  town  attractive  and  have  presented  it  with 
a  library  which  circulates  books  in  six  languages,  a  municipal 
bath  house,  a  hospital,  and  other  similar  institutions.  By  the 
railroad  station  is  a  mammoth  twelve-foot  chair,  containing 
600  feet  of  lumber,  an  appropriate  emblem  of  the  town.  The 
town  stands  on  the  height  of  land  which  extends  from  Wa- 
chusett  to  Monadnock,  both  of  which  are  visible  from  the 
town.  The  natural  drainage  from  the  town  flows  in  part 
toward  the  Connecticut  and  in  part  toward  the  Nashua  river 
and  into  the  Merrimack.  The  local  waterpower  is  supplemented 
by  electric  power  from  the  Connecticut  river. 

The  road  after  passing  the  railway  station  turns  to  the  right 
passing  over  R.R.  to  South  Gardner,  where,  at  the  church, 
Mt.  Wachusett  (R.  25)  appears  upon  the  right.  Two  miles 
from  the  town  we  cross  the  actual  divide  (1120  ft)  between  the 
basins  of  Nashua  and  Millers  rivers.  The  road  passes  for 
several  miles  through  a  swamp,  descending  into 


R.    15  §  3.     GREENFIELD   TO   BOSTON  419 

43.5  WESTMINSTER.  Alt  724.  Pop  (twp)  1353  (1910),  1594 
(1915).  Worcester  Co.  Settled  1737. 

The  town,  originally  called  Narragansett  No.  2,  was  granted 
for  services  rendered  in  King  Philip's  War.  The  year  follow- 
ing settlement  ten  forts  were  built  for  protection.  General 
Nelson  A.  Miles  was  born  here  in  1839. 

Near  the  center  of  the  village  the  route  turns  sharply  to  the 
left  downgrade,  skirting  the  shores  of  a  reservoir,  across  which 
is  a  fine  view  of  Mt.  Wachusett. 

A  yellow-marked  State  road  (R.  33)  from  Winchendon  and 
Ashburnham  enters  on  the  left. 

Passing  beneath  the  Fitchburg  R.R.  at  the  Westminster 
station  the  road  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  Nashua  river 
through  the  paper-making  suburbs  of  Crockersville  and  West 
Fitchburg,  entering  the  city  of 

51.0  FITCHBURG.  Alt  470  ft.  Pop  37,826  (1910),  39,656  (1915); 
one  third  foreign-born, — French  Canadians,  Finns,  Irish. 
One  of  the  county-seats  of  Worcester  Co.  Mfg.  paper  and 
wood  pulp,  cotton,  woolens,  yarn,  silk,  toys,  sporting  goods, 
foundry  and  machine  shop  products.  Value  of  Product, 
$24,831,000;  Payroll,  $4,779,000. 

Fitchburg  is  a  busy  manufacturing  city  with  large  mercantile 
and  financial  interests.  The  city  lies  in  a  deep  valley.  To 
the  south,  Rollstone  Hill,  from  which  huge  quantities  of  granite 
have  been  quarried,  rises  abruptly  300  feet  above  the  river. 
On  the  hills  to  the  north  are  the  residences  of  the  mill  owners 
and  the  wealthier  citizens. 

Frequent  dams  along  the  Nashua  river  for  some  miles  afford 
valuable  power.  The  paper  industry  has  long  been  the  leading 
commercial  enterprise  and  paper  still  forms  one  fifth  of  the 
value  of  the  total  factory  output.  The  diversity  of  products 
is  picturesquely  indicated  in  the  statement  of  the  Board  of 
Trade  that  Fitchburg  produces  every  minute:  "3  Revolvers, 
5  pairs  Shoes,  4  cans  Axle  Grease,  1-2  ton  Granite,  3  Shirts,  90 
Bricks,  8  miles  Cotton  Yarn,  1-2  horsepower  Boiler,  10  Paper 
Boxes,  50  Paper  Bags,  1-8  mile  of  Cloth,  100  Hair  Pins,  1-8 
ton  of  Paper,  2  Piano  Knobs,  100  Ibs.  Iron  Castings,  15  Ibs. 
Brass  Castings,  6  pairs  White  Cotton  Gloves."  It  is  further 
claimed  that  Fitchburg  leads  the  world  in  the  production  of 
revolvers,  cross-cut  saws,  screen  plates,  and  steel  horse  collars. 
The  first  paper  mill  was  built  in  1805  on  River  St.  The 
paper  industry  has  largely  been  developed  by  the  Crocker 
family.  Crocker,  Burbank  &  Co.,  Inc.,  make  the  paper  for 
"The  Saturday  Evening  Post"  and  "The  Ladies'  Home 
Journal."  Crockerville,  a  suburb  of  paper  mills,  preserves  the 
name  of  Alvah  Crocker,  a  benefactor  of  the  town.  The  But- 
terick  pattern  business  was  begun  in  1863  by  Ebenezer  Butter- 


420  FITCHBURG— AVER 

ick.  The  Putnam  Machine  Company,  now  a  branch  of  Max- 
well, Manning  &  Moore,  is  the  largest  establishment  of  its 
kind,  manufacturing  machine  shop  and  railway  tools.  It  was 
established  in  1838. 

A  large  part  of  Fitchburg's  factory  products  are  exported  to 
countries  all  over  the  world.  The  Simonds  Manufacturing 
Company  makes  saws  that  cut  more  trees  and  logs  than  all 
other  saws  combined,  and  knives  that  cut  a  large  part  of  the 
world's  tobacco  crop.  The  D.  M.  Dillon  Steam  Boiler  Works 
were  the  first  in  the  world  to  manufacture  steel  boilers.  The 
varied  products  of  the  Iver  Johnson's  Arms  and  Cycle  Works 
are  manufactured  here  in  Fitchburg.  Among  other  important 
firms  whose  product  is  widely  distributed  are  the  Fitchburg 
Paper  Company,  the  Geo.  W.  Wheelwright  Paper  Company 
(p  800),  the  Fitchburg  Steam  Engine  Company,  the  Fitch- 
burg Machine  Works,  and  the  Goodnow  Foundry  Company, 
makers  of  flywheels  and  solid  shot. 

The  late  Rodney  Wallace  presented  the  city  with  Wallace 
Way,  the  approach  to  the  High  School,  and  a  library  and  art 
building  as  a  home  for  the  Fitchburg  Public  Library. 

Fitchburg  claims  among  its  distinguished  men  David  I. 
Walsh,  twice  Governor  of  Massachusetts,  and  takes  pride  in 
the  fact  that  Luther  Burbank,  the  horticultural  genius  of  the 
country,  was  a  native  of  an  adjacent  town,  where  he  developed 
his  famous  Burbank  potato,  and  in  his  youth  marketed  his 
farm  products  in  Fitchburg. 

Sir  Hiram  Stevens  Maxim,  inventor  of  the  automatic  ma- 
chine gun,  worked  in  this  city  for  a  year  during  the  Civil 
War  for  the  Putnam  Machine  Company. 

In  1739  John  Fitch  built  a  garrison  house  in  what  is  now  part  of 
Ashby  and  soon  decided  that  the  travel  justified  him  in  opening  a 
tavern.  From  that  day  on  the  settlement  grew.  In  1748  Indians 
attacked  and  burned  Fitch's  garrison,  two  soldiers  were  killed,  and 
Fitch,  his  wife,  and  five  children  were  carried  captives  to  Canada. 
Amos  Kimball  built  the  first  dam  on  the  Nashua  river  here  in  1750. 
This  region  was  known  as  Turkey  Hills  in  the  Colonial  days,  from  the 
great  number  of  wild  turkeys.  In  coaching  days  there  were  many 
inns  here,  among  them  the  Knight  Tavern,  which  stood  on  the  site  of 
the  Bijou  Theater,  a  coaching  tavern  with  a  hundred  horses  and  twenty 
coaches  as  well  as  a  great  many  other  vehicles.  Previous  to  the  Civil 
War,  Fitchburg  was  a  station  on  the  'Underground  Railway.' 

In  the  suburbs  of  Fitchburg,  on  the  road  to  Leominster,  marked 
blue,  is  Whalom  Park,  with  its  beautiful  lake,  amusements,  and  open- 
air  theater.  Two  miles  north  of  Fitchburg's  steep  hills  is  Saima 
Farm,  a  Utopian  pleasure-ground  belonging  to  a  large  association  of 
socialistic  Finns,  who  repair  thither  in  their  autos  on  Saturdays  and 
Sundays. 

Route  12  (p  377),  from  New  London,  Putnam,  and  Worcester 
to  Peterboro  and  Concord,  N.H.,  crosses  here.  South  of 
Fitchburg  it  is  marked  blue. 


R.    15   §  3.     GREENFIELD   TO   BOSTON  421 

Note.  In  addition  to  the  main  route  to  Boston,  given  below, 
there  are  several  other  practicable  routes. 

Just  beyond  Lunenburg  a  route  forks  to  the  left,  following 
the  State  Road  through  the  delightful  old  town  of  Groton 
(p  5°7))  leading  thence  to  Lexington  and  Boston,  either  by 
Westford,  Carlisle,  and  Bedford,  or  by  rejoining  the  main  route 
at  Littleton  (p  422).  (See  Map,  back  cover.) 

A  second  route  follows  a  blue-marked  State  Road,  Route  12 
(P  377)>  through  South  Fitchburg  to  Leominster  (p  376).  If 
this  road  is  followed  further  south  it  leads  to  Sterling  and 
Route  25,  reaching  Boston  by  way  of  Clinton,  Hudson,  and 
Sudbury.  From  Leominster  another  route  follows  the  trol- 
ley to  the  left  from  Lancaster  St.,  crossing  the  Nashua  river 
and  passing  through  North  Village,  beyond  which,  near  Lanes 
Crossing,  is  the  Beaman  Oak,  said  to  be  the  largest  white  oak  in 
the  State, — 29  feet  in  circumference  at  the  base,  78  feet  high, 
with  a  spread  of  75  feet.  It  was  probably  already  ancient 
when  Gamaliel  Beaman  settled  here  in  1659.  The  road  crosses 
R.R.  and  the  broad  valley  of  the  Nashua  river,  ascending  to 
the  little  town  of  Bolton,  where  it  joins  Route  25. 

From  Bolton  a  route  to  the  left  leads  through  Stow  and 
follows  the  trolley  to  Maynard,  a  manufacturing  town  on  the 
Assabet  river,  with  extensive  paper  mills.  The  route  here 
turns  right,  crossing  the  Assabet  river  and  following  the  trolley 
past  the  isolated  buildings  of  extensive  powder  works  which 
blow  up  normally  once  a  year,  but  more  frequently  and  dis- 
astrously in  war  time.  The  route  then  passes  through  the  vil- 
lage of  Westvale,  turns  right,  crosses  the  Assabet,  and  rejoins 
Route  15  at  the  Sudbury  river  bridge  (p  422). 

From  the  R.R.  station,  Fitchburg,  the  main  route  continues 
on  Main  St.,  following  the  red  markers. 

55.0  LUNENBURG.  Alt  520  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1393  (1910),  1610 
(1915).  Worcester  Co.  Inc.  1728.  Mfg.  baskets. 

This  was  the  parent  town  from  which  Fitchburg  was  divided 
and  incorporated  in  1764.  It  was  named  in  honor  of  George  II 
of  England,  among  whose  titles  was  Duke  of  Liineburg. 

The  lefthand  roads  lead  to  Groton  (p  507),  an  alternate 
route  to  Boston  above  mentioned. 

The  main  route,  with  red  markers,  passes  through  Woods- 
ville  (61.0),  crossing  the  Nashua  river  just  beyond. 

63.5     AYER.     Alt  232  ft.     Pop  (twp)  2797  (1910),  2779  (1915).     Mid- 
dlesex Co.     Settled  1655.     Mfg.  leather  goods. 
Ayer  is  an  important  railway  junction  where  several  divi- 
sions of  the  Boston  &  Maine  meet.     A  large  portion  of  the 
population  are  engaged  in  railroading.     It  was  formerly  known 


422  AYER— CONCORD 

as  Groton  Junction,  but  was  incorporated  in  1871  under  the 
name  of  Ayer  in  deference  to  James  C.  Ayer,  the  patent  medi- 
cine manufacturer  of  Lowell,  who  extended  aid  to  the  new  town. 
The  Public  Library  is  a  gift  of  Frederick  F.  Ayer.  This  family 
was  the  first  to  make  a  great  fortune  from  extensive  advertis- 
ing of  patent  medicines,  sarsaparilla,  cherry  pectoral,  etc. 

The  route  through  Ayer  crosses  R.R.  and  continues  along 
East  Main  St.,  keeping  to  the  left  at  the  stone  watering  trough, 
crossing  and  recrossing  R.R. 

70.0  LITTLETON  COMMON.  Alt  270  ft.  Pop  (Littleton  twp) 
1229  (1910),  1228  (1915).  Middlesex  Co.  Inc.  1715.  In- 
dian name  Nashoba. 

This  is  a  pleasant  country  village  on  the  watershed  between 
the  Nashua  and  the  Concord  rivers,  considerably  higher  than 
the  neighboring  towns  of  Concord  and  Maynard.  A  number 
of  fine  residences  and  estates  overlook  its  numerous  beautiful 
ponds  and  lakes.  The  orchards  of  this  section  are  among  the 
finest  in  the  State.  Blanchard's  Monument  commemorates 
the  first  man  hit  at  Concord  Bridge,  April  19,  1775. 

John  Eliot  had  an  Indian  Church  at  Nashoba  of  ten  families  who 
subsisted,  says  Gpokin,  "by  planting  corn,  fishing,  hunting,  and  some- 
times laboring  with  the  English  people."  In  King  Philip's  War  two 
of  the  men  of  the  town  were  killed.  A  girl  of  fifteen  who  had  been  set 
to  watch  the  enemy  from  the  summit  of  Nashoba  Hill,  a  mile  east  of 
the  camp,  was  taken  captive  and  carried  to  Nashawa,  now  Lancaster. 
In  the  dead  of  night  she  took  a  saddle  from  under  the  head  of  her  Indian 
captor,  mounted  a  horse  and  safely  escaped  to  her  relatives. 

From  Littleton  Common,  Route  38,  between  Worcester, 
Lowell,  Lawrence,  Haverhill,  and  Newburyport,  turns  left  along 
a  State  Road,  marked  with  yellow  bands. 

The  main  route  follows  the  red  markers,  passing  a  mile  south 
of  Nashoba  Hill  (380  ft)  and  a  mile  further  on  skirts  the  north- 
ern shore  of  Lake  Nagog,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  on  the 
shore  of  which  is  Lake  Nagog  Inn. 

73.0  NORTH  ACTON.  Alt  188  ft-  Pop  (Acton  twp)  2136  (1910), 
2151  (1915).  Middlesex  Co.  Inc.  1735. 

The  village  lies  to  the  left  of  the  road.  Following  the  valley 
of  Nashoba  Brook  and  crossing  and  recrossing  R.R.  (77.0), 
the  route  passes  the  State  Reformatory,  on  the  right.  Crossing 
the  Assabet  river  we  follow  Elm  St.,  and  turn  left  into  Main  St. 

79.5     CONCORD.     Alt  121  ft.    Pop  (twp)  6421   (1910),  6653  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.     Settled  1635.      Indian  name  Musketequid. 
Concord  is  both  a  literary  shrine  and  a  mecca  of  patriotism. 
As  the  home  of   Hawthorne,  Emerson,  Thoreau,  and  the  Al- 
cotts  it  has  the  significance  in  American  literature  of  Stratford 
in  England  or  Weimar  in  Germany.     The  slow  flowing  Con- 
cord and  Assabet  fortunately  turn  no  mill  wheels  and  have 


R.    15  §  3.     GREENFIELD   TO   BOSTON  423 

brought  no  industrialism.  It  remains  quiet  and  serene  in 
atmosphere,  though  its  charm  has  in  recent  years  attracted  to 
it  for  residence  an  increasing  number  of  Boston  families,  whose 
dwellings  have  given  it  a  touch  of  modernity. 

Quite  apart  from  its  associations,  the  town  and  the  sur- 
rounding country,  its  meadows,  rivers,  and  hills,  have  a  placid 
beauty  that  is  well  suggested  by  the  name  of  Concord.  A 
century  ago  Timothy  Dwight  quaintly  wrote:  "The  salubrity 
of  Concord  violates  the  most  received  medical  theories  concern- 
ing such  diseases  as  are  supposed  to  be  generated  by  stagnant 
waters.  I  know  of  no  stream  which  approaches  nearer  to  a 
state  of  stagnation  than  Concord  River."  "It  runs  so  slowly," 
Alcott  said,  "because  it  hates  to  leave  Concord." 

On  Main  St.  is  the  homestead  of  the  Hoar  family,  which 
sent  five  members  to  Congress,  of  whom  Senator  George  F. 
Hoar  was  the  most  notable.  At  the  corner  of  Main  St.,  facing 
on  the  Green,  is  the  Wright  Tavern,  built  in  1747,  where  the 
minute  men  nightly  over  their  tankards  discussed  the  com- 
ing trouble.  On  April  19,  1775,  Major  Pitcairn,  who  made 
this  the  British  headquarters,  boasted,  while  stirring  his  toddy, 
that  he  would  "stir  the  blood  of  the  damned  Yankee  rebels 
before  night."  Within  are  some  interesting  Colonial  relics. 
Adjoining  is  the  Unitarian  Church,  where  a  tablet  states  that 
the  Provincial  Congress  assembled  in  the  meeting  house  which 
preceded  this  present  one.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Green 
is  the  Colonial  Inn,  a  hiding  place  for  arms  in  1775. 

From  the  northern  corner  of  the  Green,  Monument  Street 
leads  to  the  Concord  river.  "The  rude  bridge  that  arched  the 
flood"  has  been  replaced  by  a  cement  structure.  A  simple 
obelisk  of  granite  marks  the  spot  where  stood  the  invading 
army,  and  on  the  opposite  bank  the  "Minute  Man,"  the  first 
statue  of  Daniel  Chester  French,  a  native  of  the  town,  marks 
where  "the  embattled  farmers  stood,  their  flag  to  April's  breeze 
unfurled."  Near  the  obelisk  the  graves  of  two  unknown  British 
soldiers,  enclosed  by  stone  posts  and  iron  chains,  are  marked: 
"They  came  three  thousand  miles,  and  died, 

To  keep  the  Past  upon  its  throne; 
Unheard,  beyond  the  ocean  tide, 

Their  English  mother  made  her  moan." 

The  little  force  of  one  hundred  minute  men,  under  Captain  George 
Minot,  first  gathered  by  the  Liberty  Pole  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  Monument  Square  down  the  Lexington  Road,  behind  the  house 
of  the  Antiquarian  Society.  As  the  800  British  redcoats  approached, 
the  Americans  withdrew,  first  to  the  Square,  and  then  down  Monu- 
ment St.  across  the  old  North  Bridge  and  the  Meadows  to  Liberty 
St.,  where  a  tablet  in  the  wall  marks  their  position.  Near  at  hand 
is  the  house  of  Major  John  Buttrick,  who  here  took  command.  When, 
however,  they  saw  the  smoke  and  flames  rising  from  the  burning  spoils 
the  British  had  gathered,  they  started  to  advance  across  the  bridge 


424  CONCORD 

and  had  arrived  where  the  "Minute  Man"  now  stands  when  one  of  the 
British  regulars  fired.  The  shot  was  followed  by  a  volley  which 
instantly  killed  Captain  Davis  and  Private  Hosmer.  In  the  return 
fire  two  British  were  killed  and  the  rest  fled  in  confusion.  The 
Americans  crossed  the  bridge  in  pursuit,  some  going  to  the  Elisha 
Jones  House,  nearly  opposite  the  Old  Manse,  and  later  by  a  broad 
circuit  through  the  meadows  to  Merriam's  Corner  on  the  Lexington 
Road,  where  they  endeavored  to  head  off  the  fleeing  British. 

The  Old  Manse,  wearing  a  look  of  sleepy  and  unkempt  mys- 
tery, stands  to  the  west  of  the  road  not  far  from  the  Battle 
Ground.  It  was  built  before  the  Revolution  by  the  grand- 
father of  the  philosopher-poet,  Rev.  William  Emerson,  who 
from  the  windows  witnessed  the  fight,  and  left  a  detailed  de- 
scription of  how  the  guard  at  the  bridge  "retreated  in  the 
greatest  disorder  and  confusion."  In  his  grandfather's  house 
young  Ralph  wrote  many  of  his  early  poems  and  his  first  book, 
"Nature."  But  "Mosses  from  an  Old  Manse"  will  always 
link  Hawthorne's  memory  with  the  place. 

From  Monument  Square,  Bedford  Street  leads  in  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  to  Sleepy  Hollow  Cemetery.  Beyond  the  great  green 
hill  that  gives  the  cemetery  its  name  on  the  tree-crowned  ridge 
are  the  graves  of  Emerson,  Hawthorne,  Thoreau,  and  the 
Alcotts.  Thoreau  lies  in  the  family  lot  to  the  left  of  Ridge 
Path.  Within  a  hedge-bound  enclosure  is  a  small  stone  carved 
with  the  one  word  "Hawthorne,"  as  was  his  wish.  Near  at 
hand  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  path  is  the  grave  of  Louisa 
M.  Alcott,  and  a  little  further  is  the  rose  quartz  boulder  mark- 
ing the  grave  of  Emerson  under  the  pine  which  long  before  his 
death  he  chose  to  be  his  sentinel. 

From  the  Green,  and  Monument  Square,  Lexington  Street 
leads  to  Merriam's  Corner  and  Boston.  The  Antiquarian 
Society's  House  on  the  left  is  filled  with  old  furniture  and 
relics  harking  from  the  Colonial  and  literary  days. 

Beyond  and  opposite  where  the  road  forks  is  the  square  white 
house,  in  which  Emerson  lived  from  1835  until  his  death.  The 
library  was  at  the  right  as  one  entered.  The  house  is  not  open 
to  visitors.  The  pines  and  chestnuts  which  partly  screen  it 
from  the  road  were  planted  by  Thoreau  and  Alcott  when 
Emerson  was  in  Europe.  Emerson  wrote  in  a  letter  to  a  friend 
in  July,  1835: 

"I  have  dodged  the  doom  of  building,  and  have  bought  the  Coolidge 
house  in  Concord,  with  the  expectation  of  entering  it  next  September. 
It  is  a  mean  place,  and  cannot  be  fine  until  trees  and  flowers  give  it  a 
character  of  its  own.  .  .  .  My  house  cost  me  $3500,  and  may  next  sum- 
mer cost  me  four  or  five  more  to  enlarge  and  finish.  The  seller  alleges 
that  it  cost  him  $7800." 

Orchard  House,  the  second  home  of  Bronson  Alcott  and 
the  birthplace  of  the  Concord  School  of  Philosophy,  lies 
further  on  to  the  left.  Alcott  wrote,  "My  neighbors  flatter 


R.    15   §  3.     GREENFIELD   TO   BOSTON 


425 


me  in  telling  me  that  I  have  one  of  the  best  placed  and  most 
picturesque  houses  in  town."  The  house  has  recently  been 
restored  by  the  local  Woman's  Club  and  here  one  may  visit 
the  room  where  "Little  Women"  was  written.  The  Hill- 
side Chapel  just  behind  was  built  in  1879  for  the  meetings  of 
the  School  of  Philosophy.  Louisa  wrote  in  her  diary: 

"Father  has  his  dream  realized  at  last,  and  is  in  his  glory,  with 
plenty  of  talk  to  swim  in  ...  something  new  in  this  dull  old  town;  .  .  . 
The  town  swarms  with  budding  philosophers,  and  they  roost  on  our 
steps  like  hens  waiting  for  corn." 


CONCORD  MASS 

©P.E.SARGENT 


The  Wayside,  the  next  house,  was  the  Alcotts'  first  home, 
which  Hawthorne  bought  in  1852  and  named  because  of  its 
nearness  to  the  road.  Here  he  lived  until  his  death  in  1864. 
Hawthorne  wrote  his  friend  George  William  Curtis: 

"Before  Mr.  Alcott  took  it  in  hand,  it  was  a  mean-looking  affair 
with  two  peaked  gables.  .  .  .  He  added  a  porch  in  front,  and  a  central 
peak,  and  a  piazza,  at  each  end,  and  painted  it  a  rusty  olive  hue,  and 
invested  the  whole  with  a  modest  picturesqueness." 

On  his  return  from  England  in  1860  Hawthorne  enlarged  the 
house  and  built  the  tower  in  which  he  had  his  study.  A  reach 
of  two  hundred  yards  running  east  and  west  upon  the  hill  back 


426  CONCORD— LEXINGTON 

of  the  house  was  worn  by  his  feet  into  the  path  which  is  called 
by  his  name.  Of  recent  years  Wayside  has  been  the  home 
of  Mrs.  Lothrop,  'Margaret  Sidney,'  the  author  of  the  popular 
children's  series  "The  Five  Little  Peppers." 

The  Concord  grape  was  originated  by  Ephraim  Bull,  whose 
house  is  next  beyond  Wayside.  The  original  vine  may 
still  be  seen  on  the  arbor  behind  the  house.  A  gold  beater  by 
trade,  Ephraim  Bull  moved  to  Concord  in  1836  and  at  once 
"looked  about  to  see  what  I  could  find  among  our  wildings.  The 
next  thing  to  do  was  to  find  the  best  and  earliest  grape  for  seed,  and 
this  I  found  in  an  accidental  seedling  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  The  crop 
was  abundant,  ripe  in  August,  and  of  very  good  quality  for  a  wild  grape. 
I  sowed  the  seed  in  the  autumn  of  1843.  Among  them  the  Concord 
was  the  only  one  worth  saving." 

Thoreau  was  born  in  a  handsome  oldfashioned  house  a  mile 
south  of  the  village.     He  made  a  living  making  lead  pencils 

and  preparing  plumbago  for 
electrotyping.  The  site  of 
his  little  cabin  under  the  tall 
pines  on  Walden  Pond  a  mile 
and  a  half  to  the  south  is 
marked  by  a  stone  cairn. 

Frank  B.  Sanborn,  the 
modern  sage  of  Concord, 
lecturer,  abolitionist,  and 
last  of  the  '  Concord  Philoso- 
phers,' lives  in  a  house  on 

WAYSIDE,    CONCORD  VM          W         1  iU 

Elm   St.  close  to  the  river. 

His  independence  of  thought  and  action  and  his  insistence  on 
his  original  and  individual  sewage  system  brought  down  upon 
him  in  the  summer  of  1915  the  persecution  of  the  town  officials. 
Concord  was  the  first  inland  town  founded  in  the  Bay  Colony.  It 
was  settled  in  1635  by  a  few  families  led  by  Major  Simon  Willard, 
Indian  trader,  and  Peter  Bulkley,  the  minister,  who  made  their  way 
from  Cambridge  along  Indian  trails.  A  year  later,  the  settlers  secured 
a  quitclaim  for  the  tract  from  the  widow  of  Nanapashemet,  chief  of 
the  Massachusetts  tribe.  Concord  was  made  a  shire  town  in  i6g2 
and  became  the  most  important  central  town  of  the  province.  The 
first  county  convention  to  protest  against  the  Acts  of  Parliament  and 
King  was  held  here  in  August,  1774,  and  here  the  Provincial  Congress 
sat  in  1775.  It  was  the  principal  place  for  the  deposit  of  the  arms 
and  military  stores  obtained  by  the  Congress,  and  at  this  time  its  chief 
industry  was  the  making  of  firearms  and  musket 'balls.  -Nearly  two 
hundred  townsmen  were  engaged  in  the  Fight,  representing  almost 
every  family  of  the  town  at  that  time.  For  the  year  when  the  Har- 
vard College  buildings  at  Cambridge  were  used  as  barracks  the  college 
removed  to  Annursneck  Hill.  By  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  cen- 
tury Concord  had  changed  from  a  busy  shire  town  to  a  quiet  country 
village,  but  it  had  a  world-wide  fame  as  a  retreat  for  philosophers  and 
literary  folk.  Of  late  years  market-gardening  has  flourished  on  the 
rich  soil  of  the  district. 


R.    15   §3.     GREENFIELD   TO   BOSTON  427 

Leaving  Concord  by  Lexington  St.,  the  route  follows  the 
red  markers  to  Merriam's  Corner  (81.0).  Here  the  minute 
men  intercepted  the  British  retreat  from  Concord  and  at  this 
point  began  the  running  fight  in  which  the  regulars  were  fired 
upon  from  "behind  each  farmyard  fence  and  wall"  until  they 
joined  at  Lexington  the  re-enforcements  of  Earl  Percy.  Half- 
way to  Lexington  on  the  left,  a  large  pyramidal  monument 
marks  the  place  where  Paul  Revere's  ride  ended.  Here  he 
and  Dawes  were  captured  about  two  o'clock  on  the  morning  of 
the  Nineteenth  by  a  British  patrol  stationed  here  to  intercept 
communication  with  Concord.  Dr.  Prescott,  who  accompa- 
nied them,  escaped  by  jumping  his  horse  over  a  stone  wall,  and 
gave  the  alarm  at  Concord.  A  mile  further  on  the  road  forks 
beyond  a  rocky  cliff.  The  course  of  the  British  was  over  the 
road  to  the  left.  A  tablet  on  the  left  marks  the  position  where 
the  British  made  a  stand  in  the  course  of  their  retreat.  At 
Fiske's  Hill,  further  on,  Major  Pitcairn  was  thrown  from  his 
horse  and  the  animal  and  its  accouterments  captured.  His 
pistols  are  now  in  the  Hancock-Clarke  House  at  Lexington. 

86.5     LEXINGTON.     Alt  225ft      Pop  (twp)  4918  (1910),  5506  (1915). 

Middlesex  Co.     Settled  1640. 

Lexington  is  a  beautiful  residential  town  of  increasing  pop- 
ularity. The  triangular  elm-shaded  Green,  surrounded  by 
beautiful  Colonial  structures,  wears  today  an  air  of  undisturbed 
repose;  yet  the  interest  here  is  all  of  war  and  bloodshed  and 
the  numerous  tablets  all  relate  to  the  stirring  events  on  that 
igth  of  April,  1775.  At  the  corner  of  the  triangle  as  we  enter 
is  an  ivy-grown  granite  monument  erected  in  1799,  perhaps 
the  first  prominent  memorial  of  the  Revolution.  Before  it  lie, 
re-interred  here  in  1835,  those  who  died  upon  the  Green  in 
the  early  gray  of  that  momentous  April  morning.  A  marble 
tablet  in  the  face  of  the  monument  bears  a  rather  long  and 
oratorical  inscription,  beginning: 

"Sacred  to  Liberty  and  the  Rights  of  Mankind! 
The  Freedom  and  Independence  of  America, 
Sealed  and  Defended  by  the  Blood  of  Her  Sons." 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Green  embedded  in  the  green- 
sward is  a  fifteen-ton  boulder  on  the  face  of  which  has  been  cut 
a  long-barreled  musket,  over  which  hangs  a  powder  horn,  the 
barrel  pointing  the  direction  of  the  line-up  of  the  minute  men. 
Below  are  inscribed  the  words  attributed  to  Captain  Parker, 
who  was  in  command: 

"Stand  your  ground 
Don't  fire  unless  fired  upon 
But  if  they  mean  to  have  a  war 
Let  it  begin  here." 


428  LEXINGTON 

As  Major  Pitcairn  approached  with  his  600  regulars  he  heard 
the  roll  of  the  drum  assembling  the  seventy  minute  men  who 
had  earlier  gathered  in  the  Buckman  Tavern,  just  opposite 
the  Green.  The  British  regulars  came  forward  at  the  double- 
quick.  Pitcairn  rode  up  and  arrogantly  ordered,  "Disperse, 
ye  rebels!"  They  stood  their  ground.  A  shot  came  from  the 
British  line  followed  by  a  volley  and  then  another.  Eight  of 
the  minute  men  lay  dead  and  nine  wounded.  Then  the  minute 
men  scattered  and  the  British  after  a  half  hour's  delay  proceeded 
on  their  way  to  Concord. 

At  the  apex  of  the  Green  facing  the  direction  from  which  the 
British  approached  is  Kitson's  bronze  "  Minute  Man,"  spirited 
and  admirably  poised,  representing  Captain  John  Parker, 
lightly  leaping  up  a  pile  of  field  stone  which  forms  the  base 
and  support  of  the  fountain  in  front.  About  the  Green  are  a 
number  of  historic  houses.  To  the  doorstep  of  the  Harrington 
House,  at  the  corner  of  Bedford  St.,  Jonathan  Harrington, 
wounded  in  that  first  volley,  crawled  to  die  at  his  wife's  feet. 
The  old  Buckman  Tavern,  built  in  1690,  where  the  minute 
men  assembled,  a  square,  severely  plain,  but  well-preserved 
old  building  with  dormer  windows,  is  now  in  the  possession  of 
the  Lexington  Historical  Society. 

Opposite  the  Unitarian  meeting  house  a  lane  leads  to  the 
old  cemetery  where  is  the  grave  of  Captain  Parker.  At  the 
corner  of  Bedford  and  Hancock  Sts.  is  the  little  building  built 
in  1822  for  Lexington  Academy  and  taken  over  by  the  State 
in  1839  for  the  first  of  all  normal  schools  in  the  country. 

A  little  way  down  Hancock  St.  across  R.R.  on  the  right 
is  the  Hancock-Clarke  House,  a  plain  and  unimportant-look- 
ing building,  which,  however,  attracts  across  its  threshold  as 
many  as  20,000  visitors  a  year.  The  house  originally  stood  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  street  and  was  moved  here  in  1896, 
when  it  became  the  headquarters  of  the  Historical  Society. 
It  contains  interesting  and  valuable  collections.  (Open  free 
daily  and  Sunday  afternoon.)  The  rear  portion  of  the  present 
building,  one-storied  with  dormer  windows,  was  built  by  the 
Rev.  John  Hancock  in  1698.  In  this  Manse  lived  two  minis- 
ters of  the  Lexington  Church,  whose  term  of  pastoral  service 
counted  up  to  101  years.  The  builder  was  the  great-grand- 
father of  John  Hancock,  the  Revolutionary  patriot,  and  here 
the  latter  frequently  came  to  visit  his  grandfather  and  later 
his  cousin,  the  Rev.  Jonas  Clarke.  John  Hancock  and  Samuel 
Adams  were  sleeping  in  an  upper  room  in  the  front  portion  of 
the  house  on  that  fateful  April  night.  And  here  at  the  same 
time  was  visiting  Dorothy  Quincy,  John  Hancock's  dashing 
and  brilliant  fiancee,  whom  he  married  the  following  August 


R.    15   §  3.     GREENFIELD   TO   BOSTON  429 

at  Fairfield  (p  85).  Hancock  and  Adams  had  a  price  upon 
their  heads  and  a  guard  of  minute  men  had  been  posted  about 
the  house  to  protect  them  from  surprise.  As  Paul  Revere 
dashed  up  to  warn  the  proscribed  patriots  "it  was  one  by 
the  village  clock."  The  guard  cautioned  him  about  making 
so  much  noise,  lest  he  waken  the  sleepers.  "Noise!"  roared 
Revere.  "You'll  have  noise  enough  before  long.  The  red- 
coats are  corning."  Hancock  and  Adams  were  hustled  off  to 
the  old  Parsonage  in  Burlington  and  later  to  Billerica.  Han- 
cock sent  back  a  note  to  Dorothy  requesting  her  to  follow 
them  and  bring  the  fine  salmon  that  had  been  sent  them  for 
their  dinner,  which  she  accordingly  did. 

Passing  the  Library,  on  the  right,  and  the  Town  Hall,  on 
the  left,  and  the  famous  but  now  obsolescent  "Keeley  Cure," 
on  the  grounds  of  the  High  School  is  an  ugly  stone  cannon. 
This  marks  the  position  of  one  of  the  two  fieldpieces  which 
Earl  Percy  planted  to  protect  his  retreat.  Across  the  road, 
further  on,  a  tablet  marks  the  position  of  the  second. 

The  Munroe  Tavern,  shaded  by  firje  old  trees,  was  erected, 
as  the  tablet  informs  us,  in  1695  by  William  Munroe.  When 
Earl  Percy  reached  Lexington  with  re-enforcements,  1500 
strong,  on  the  afternoon  of  April  19,  he  made  this  old  hostelry 
his  headquarters  and  here  the  wounded  were  treated.  In  the 
ceiling  of  the  bar-room  at  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  hole 
made  by  a  British  bullet.  The  landlord  in  1775  was  one  of  the 
fifteen  Munroes  who  shared  in  the  fighting,  and  as  orderly 
sergeant  he  lined  up  the  seventy  yeomen  on  the  Green  in  the 
dawn.  This  building  was  a  well-patronized  inn  for  163  years. 
Closed  to  the  public  in  1858,  in  1910  it  came  by  bequest  into 
the  hands  of  the  Lexington  Historical  Society  and  now  con- 
tains interesting  Revolutionary  relics.  (Open  to  the  public.) 

It  was  in  1641  that  Robert  Harlakenden  built  the  first  house  in 
Cambridge  Farms,  as  this  region  was  then  known.  The  first  set- 
tlement was  near  Vine  Brook.  The  town  was  later  named  by  Gov- 
ernor Dudley  for  Lord  Lexington,  an  ancient  nobleman  of  prominence 
at  that  time.  Lexington,  Ky.,  was  named  by  its  pioneer  settlers  in 
I77S  "in  honor  of  that  glorious  field  where  the  rebels  of  Massachu- 
setts had  died  but  a  few  weeks  before,  resisting  the  encroachments  of 
their  king."  Aside  from  the  events  of  April  ig  little  that  is  momen- 
tous has  happened  in  Lexington.  Theodore  Parker,  scholar,  liberal 
thinker,  and  ardent  abolitionist,  is  Lexington's  most  famous  son. 
The  site  of  the  house  on  Spring  St.,  off  the  Waltham  Road,  where  he 
was  born  in  1810  is  now  marked  by  a  granite  monument. 

Lexington  in  June,  1915,  staged  a  great  historical  pageant  to  cele- 
brate a  century  of  lasting  peace  between  England  and  America.  In 
the  outdoor  amphitheater  at  Twin  Elms  were  reviewed  the  events  in 
the  history  of  the  town,  before  audiences  of  8000. 

From  Lexington  to  Cambridge  tablet  after  tablet  along  the 
wayside  records  every  incident  of  that  running  fight  in  which 


430  LEXINGTON— BOSTON 

73  of  the  British  were  killed,  174  wounded,  and  26  taken  pris- 
oners. At  the  corner  of  Massachusetts  Ave.  and  Pleasant  St. 
a  tablet  commemorates:  "Benjamin  Wellington/  A  minute 
man/  was  surprised  by  British/  scouts  and  disarmed./  With 
undaunted  courage/  he  borrowed  another  gun  and/  hastened  to 
join  his  comrades/  on  Lexington  Green." 

In  East  Lexington  a  tablet  marks  the  site  of  the  house  where 
to  the  age  of  96  lived  Jonathan  Harrington,  the  son  of  that 
other  Jonathan,  who  was  mortally  wounded  and  died  on  his 
threshold.  Though  but  sixteen  this  younger  Jonathan  blew 
the  fife  for  that  early  morning  line-up  on  the  Green. 

To  the  left  as  we  approach  Arlington  a  new  State  Highway, 
for  which  the  town  of  Arlington  gave  the  land,  cuts  across  the 
fields,  avoiding  the  center  of  the  town,  and  joins  the  Mystic 
Parkway  (R.  34). 

At  Arlington  Heights  is  the  home  of  Cyrus  Dallin,  the 
sculptor  who  came  out  of  the  West,  and  who  has  idealized  the 
life  and  spirit  of  the  Indian.  His  best  known  works  in  New 
England  are  the  "Indian  Hunter,"  at  Arlington,  and  the 
"Appeal  to  the  Great  Spirit,"  which  stands  before  the  Boston 
Museum  of  Fine  Arts. 

91.0  ARLINGTON.  46ft.  Pop  (twp)  11,187  (1910),  14,889  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Inc.  1867.  Indian  name  Menotomy.  Mfg. 
leather;  market-gardening. 

Opposite  the  Town  Hall  and  the  Robbins  Library,  an  at- 
tractive civic  center,  Route  21  enters  from  Belmont  and  Wal- 
tham,  on  Pleasant  St.  At  Cooper's  Tavern  the  road  sharp  to 
the  left,  with  blue  markers,  follows  the  route  of  Paul  Revere's 
ride  through  Medford,  used  by  Route  27  to  Billerica  and  Lowell. 
This  road  also  leads  to  the  North  Shore,  avoiding  Boston  and 
Cambridge.  A  tablet  marks  the  site  of  the  Black  Horse  Tav- 
ern, where  Orne,  Lee,  and  Gerry  (p  634),  Marblehead's  Com- 
mittee of  Safety,  spent  the  night  before  the  Lexington-Concord 
Fight,  fleeing  into  hiding  in  the  cornfield  behind  the  inn  when 
the  arrival  of  the  British  forces  was  announced. 

Massachusetts  Avenue  leads  on  through  CAMBRIDGE  (p  464) , 
Harvard  Square,  and  across  Harvard  Bridge  to 

98.5     BOSTON  (R.  20,  p  453). 


R.  16.     PROVIDENCE  to  PLYMOUTH.       44.5  m. 
Via  TAUNTON  and  MIDDLEBORO. 

This  important  crossroad  is  City  or  State  Highway,  mostly 
macadam,  in  good  condition  and  being  improved  from  year  to 
year.  From  City  Hall,  Providence,  the  route  runs  east  be- 
tween the  Fire  Station  and  the  Post  Office,  up  Waterman  St., 
passing  Brown  University  and  crossing  the  Seekonk  river  by 
the  old  iron  drawbridge  to  East  Providence  (2.5;  p  439).  At 
the  watering  trough  at  Broadway  Six  Corners  bear  left  on 
Taunton  Ave.,  a  good  macadam  road.  The  State  line  (3.5) 
is  marked  by  a  monument. 

Beyond  East  Providence  we  pass  Hunts  Mills,  a  popular 
canoeing  resort  on  Ten  Mile  River,  a  little  stream  noted  for  its 
idyllic  scenery.  It  was  formerly  the  boundary  line  between 
Providence  County  in  Rhode  Island  and  Bristol  County  in 
Massachusetts.  From  this  point  the  route  is  marked  by 
yellow  bands  on  telephone  poles  and  fence  posts  at  intersecting 
roads  and  other  points  of  doubt. 

9.0  REHOBOTH.  Pop  (twp)  2001  (1910),  2222  (1915).  Bristol  Co. 
Settled  1642.  Indian  name  Seconet. 

Rehoboth,  today  a  quiet  agricultural  community,  is  the  old- 
est settlement  in  this  vicinity  except  Providence,  and  is  the 
mother  town  of  Pawtucket  and  the  Attleboros  which  long  since 
completely  eclipsed  it.  Attleboro  was  set  off  from  Rehoboth 
as  early  as  1694,  and  from  it  in  1812  sprang  the  little  town  of 
Seekonk  and  a  part  of  Pawtucket.  Here  Darius  Goff  estab- 
lished the  great  plush  and  braid  works  which  attained  a  more 
than  national  importance,  now  situated  in  Pawtucket.  The 
Goff  estate  in  Rehoboth  has  been  in  the  family  since  1716  and 
has  never  been  deeded. 

The  Hornbine  Meeting  House  of  the  Six-Principle  Baptist 
sect  established  here  about  1750  is  famous  for  its  yearly  func- 
tion, a  quaint  survival  of  an  early  Colonial  festival,  ever  more 
popular  and  profitable,  the  'old  home'  day,  a  gathering  of  the 
neighbors  and  hand-shaking  politicians  repairing  their  political 
fences.  The  Museum  of  the  Rehoboth  Historical  Society 
contains  King  Philip's  kettle  and  other  interesting  relics.  It 
has  been  very  largely  paid  for  by  the  proceeds  of  annual 
clambakes. 

Leaving  the  village  of  Rehoboth,  with  the  church  on  the 
right,  the  route,  a  macadam  road,  bears  left  and  again  joins 
the  trolley,  running  straight  across  country.  About  two  miles 
from  Rehoboth  on  the  right,  a  few  rods  south  of  the  Turnpike, 
is  Anawan's  Rock,  where  Captain  Church  captured  Anawan, 

(431) 


432  REHOBOTH— PLYMOUTH 

King  Philip's  intrepid  aide  and  counselor,  whose  stronghold  was 
in  the  Squannakonk  Swamp,  a  mile  to  the  south.  North  of 
the  Rock  is  Great  Meadow  Hill  (266  ft)  with  a  watch-tower 
used  by  the  State  Fire  Warden  in  the  summer  and  fall. 

Just  beyond  Westville  (16.0),  an  outlying  village  of  Taunton, 
we  cross  Three  Mile  River,  a  picturesque  stream.  The  State 
Road  enters  Winthrop  St.,  curving  right  into  Main  St.  and 
crossing  Route  32,  from  Boston  to  Newport. 

18.5     TAUNTON  (R.  32). 

From  the  City  Hall,  Taunton,  the  route  follows  Summer  St. 
over  the  Taunton  river,  following  the  yellow  bands  on  the  tele- 
graph poles  with  the  trolley  through  to  Harts  Corners  (20.3), 
where  we  bear  left  and  cross  the  Cottey  river  and  R.R.,  a  mile 
beyond,  into  East  Taunton  (24.5).  The  route  passes  straight 
through  the  village.  To  the  north  is  the  Taunton  river. 
Recrossing  R.R.,  cross  Poquoy  Trout  Brook  and  pass  through 
Center  St.,  crossing  Wareham  St.  and  Route  31,  from  Boston 
to  Woods  Hole  and  Chatham,  marked  with  blue  bands. 

29.5    MIDDLEBORO  (R.31). 

Note.  From  Middleboro,  an  excellent  State  Road  leads 
south  through  the  heart  of  the  Massasoit  country  to  Lakeville 
on  Assawompset  Pond,  the  largest  in  Massachusetts. 

The  yellow-marked  route  passes  the  Post  Office  on  the  left, 
and  turns  left  on  North  Main  St.,  then  right  on  East  Main  St., 
crossing  the  Namasket  river.  The  road  lies  straight  ahead  to 
the  five  corners  called  Middleboro  Green  (31.5).  Assawompset 
was  the  name  applied  to  all  this  lake  and  swamp  region  round 
about,  Namasket, — "a  place  of  fish," — being  the  name  of  the 
site  occupied  by  the  town.  To  the  north  is  Meeting  House 
Swamp  and  to  the  south  Woods  Pond,  and  Shorts,  Woods, 
and  Stony  Brooks, — all  of  which  flow  into  Tispaquin  Pond, 
three  miles  to  the  south.  The  route  crosses  the  square  diag- 
onally and  bears  slightly  left  with  yellow  markers. 

Note.  The  Plymouth  road  leads  through  Waterville  (34.5) 
and  North  Carver  (36.5).  Three  miles  to  the  south  is  the 
principal  village  of  Carver,  where  the  first  iron  tea  kettle  made 
in  America  was  cast,  about  1762,  when  the  town  attained  some 
prominence  through  the  excellence  of  its  hollow  iron  ware. 
The  road  bears  sharp  left  and  right  just  beyond,  crossing  Stony 
Brook.  Nearing  Plymouth,  Little  Pond  and  Billington  Sea 
are  seen  on  the  south.  The  road  follows  Town  Brook  and 
enters  Summer  St.,  joining  Route  30  at  PLYMOUTH  (44.5). 

The  route  marked  by  yellow  bands  continues  northward 
past  the  villages  of  Eddyville  and  Wenatuxit  to 


R.    1 6.     PROVIDENCE   TO   PLYMOUTH 


433 


37.0     PLYMPTON.     Alt  100  ft.     Pop  (twp)  561   (1910),  599  (1915). 

Plymouth  Co.     Inc.  1707.     Mfg.  thread  and  boxes. 
The  route  keeps  straight  on  northward  to  the  hamlet  of 
North  Plympton  (39.5),  where  it  turns  right,  with  the  yellow 
markers,  joining   Route  30,  from  Boston   to  Plymouth  and 
Provincetown,  at 

42  0     KINGSTON  (R.  30,  p  538). 
44.5.    PLYMOUTH. 


THE 

RHODE  ISLAND 

REGION 


R.  17.     PROVIDENCE  to  BUZZARDS  BAY.   50  5  m. 
Via  FALL  RIVER  and  NEW  BEDFORD. 

This  route  affords  an  important  connecting  link  between 
Providence,  the  southern  Massachusetts  cities,  and  the  routes 
to  the  Cape.  For  eight  months  in  the  year,  when  the  Bristol 
Ferry  is  not  running,  the  only  route  from  Providence  to  New- 
port is  this  by  way  of  Fall  River.  The  route  is  nearly  all 
macadam  State  Road,  with  red  markers  from  Fall  River. 

From  Exchange  Place,  Providence,  follow  Route  16  to  the 
Six  Corners  in  East  Providence  (2.5).  Jog  right  and  left  around 
small  iron  water  trough  into  Waterman  Ave.,  following  trolley. 

4.5     SEEKONK.     Pop  (twp)  2397  (1910),  2762  (1915).     Bristol  Co. 

Indian  name,  "wild  goose." 

Miss  Wheeler's  School  for  girls  of  Providence  has  a  i2O-acre 
farm  here  to  which  the  girls  resort  for  week-ends.  About  a  mile 
beyond  Luthers  Corners  (12.7)  are  the  greenhouses  and  ex- 
tensive truck  gardens  of  David  S.  Peck.  Further  on  is  the 
Monroe  Tavern,  an  old  coaching  hostelry. 

15.0     SWANSEA.     Pop  1978  (1910),  2556  (1915).     Inc.  1668. 

Swansea  village  is  known  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  this 
section  of  New  England.  The  Frank  S.  Stevens  School,  the 
Town  Hall,  the  Library,  and  Christ  Church  (Episcopal), 
named  in  the  order  of  location,  are  all  gifts  of  the  late  Frank  S. 
Stevens  and  Mrs.  Stevens,  whose  mansion  is  on  the  right, 
nearly  opposite  the  church.  On  the  hill  east  of  the  village  is 
Rest  House,  given  by  Mrs.  Stevens  to  the  Diocese  of  Massa- 
chusetts for  the  benefit  of  the  clergy  and  church  workers.  The 
fine  old  meeting  house  stands  on  the  site  of  the  first  edifice 
(1682).  For  107  consecutive  years  the  pastorate  was  filled  by 
a  son  and  grandson  of  Samson  Mason,  a  soldier  under  Crom- 
well, who  settled  nearby  at  Rehoboth.  Gardners  Neck,  which 
extends  southward  into  Mt.  Hope  Bay,  has  some  ancient  farms 
and  also  summer  cottages. 

The  route  turns  right  with  the  trolley  to  Fall  River.  Just 
before  reaching  the  Taunton  river,  it  joins  Route  32,  from 
Boston  to  Newport,  into 

19.5.     FALL  RIVER  (R.  32). 

From  the  City  Hall,  the  route  runs  east  on  Pleasant  St., 
along  the  course  of  the  Quequechan  river,  through  Flint  Village, 
a  manufacturing  suburb  with  numerous  cotton  factories,  and 
crosses  the  narrow  causeway,  following  the  red  markers,  be- 
tween the  two  Watuppa  Ponds.  The  upper  pond  is  of  excep- 
tionally pure  water,  fed  by  springs,  and  furnishes  the  water 
supply  as  well  as  power  for  the  mills.  From  here,  the  high- 

(434) 


R.    17.      PROVIDENCE    TO    BUZZARDS    BAY  435 

way  runs  straight,  passing  on  the  right  Lincoln  Park,  an  amuse- 
ment resort,  to  Westport  Factory  (26.5),  which  lies  at  the  head 
of  the  deep  estuary,  Westport  River.  At  the  mouth  of  the  estu- 
ary is  Horse  Neck  Beach  with  great  wliite  sand  dunes  and  the 
summer  resort  of  Acoaxet.  The  inferior  soil  of  this  region 
has  been  made  to  yield  for  centuries  large  crops  of  corn,  when 
fertilized  in  the  Indian  manner  with  menhaden,  great  quan- 
tities of  which  are  caught  in  these  inlets.  The  route,  marked 
red,  turns  slightly  to  the  left  and  runs  almost  directly  east  to 
the  village  of  North  Dartmouth  (29.5). 

About  five  miles  south  is  the  old  town  of 

DARTMOUTH.  Pop  (twp)  4378  (1910),  5311  (1915).  Settled  1650. 
In  1650  two  settlers  from  Taunton  set  up  a  forge  at  Rus- 
sell's Mills.  Two  years  later  a  great  tract  of  land  here  was  sold 
to  the  Pilgrims  by  Massasoit  and  his  son  Wamsutta.  Dart- 
mouth thus  became  one  of  the  earliest  settlements  on  the  shores 
of  Buzzards  Bay,  and  almost  from  its  beginning  was  a  strong- 
hold of  the  Quakers.  It  received  its  name  from  the  English 
port  where  the  "Mayflower"  put  back  for  repairs.  These 
early  settlers  gave  Buzzards  Bay  its  name  on  account  of  the 
abundance  of  buzzardets  or  fish-hawks  in  this  region.  The 
Indian  name  of  the  region,  Apponaganset,  is  preserved  in  the 
name  of  one  of  the  villages  near  the  coast. 

32.5  NEW  BEDFORD.  Pop  96,652  (1910),  105,000  (1915);  one 
third  foreign-born,  chiefly  French  Canadians  and  Portu- 
guese. County-seat  of  Bristol  Co.  Settled  1652.  Port  of 
Entry .  fishing  and  whaling  interests;  coal  distributing 
center.  Mfg.  cotton  goods  and  yarns,  silk  and  woolens,  twist 
drills,  leather,  cordage,  glass,  paper,  soap,  candles,  silver- 
ware, shoes,  screws,  whale  oils,  chairs,  and  eyelets.  Fre- 
quent steamers  in  season  to  the  Elizabeth  Islands,  Woods 
Hole,  Marthas  Vineyard,  and  Nantucket;  direct  packet  service 
to  the  Cape  Verde  Islands,  and  the  Azores. 

New  Bedford  is  an  attractively  situated  city  on  land  rising 
from  its  commodious  harbor  at  the  mouth  of  the  Acushnet 
river  and  overlooking  Buzzards  Bay.  It  is  a  great  cotton-mill 
town,  second  in  the  number  of  spindles  in  the  United  States, 
and  first  in  the  manufacture  of  fine  cotton  goods  and  yarns. 
The  humid  climate  makes  possible  the  spinning  of  the  finest 
cotton  yarns  at  the  least  expense,  and  to  this  is  largely  due  the 
supremacy  of  New  Bedford  in  the  making  of  fine  cotton  goods. 
The  Wamsutta  Mills  are  the  most  extensive,  but  the  weaving 
shed  of  the  Nashewena  Mills  is  the  largest  weaving  plant  under 
one  roof  in  the  world.  There  are  65  cotton  and  yarn  mills, 
operating  3,000,000  spindles,  about  10  per  cent  of  the  whole 
number  in  the  United  States.  Over  50,000  looms  produce 
more  fine  cotton  goods  than  are  produced  in  any  other  city  in 


436  NEW   BEDFORD— MATTAPOISETT 

the  country.  The  mills  use  about  300,000  bales  of  cotton 
per  year.  Twist  drills  were  originated  at  the  Morse  plant 
here  and  from  that  shop  have  sprung  all  the  other  concerns  in 
the  country  engaged  in  making  twist  drills.  In  the  palmy 
days  of  whaling  before  the  Civil  War  over  300  vessels  were 
registered  from  this  port  and  10,000  hands  were  employed. 

New  Bedford  is  a  well-built  town,  but  its  modern  buildings 
and  monuments  have  no  especial  interest  for  the  tourist.  The 
harbor  and  docks  present  a  busy  scene  and  are  worth  visiting. 
An  interesting  drive  along  the  harbor  front,  affording  fine 
views,  leads  to  Fort  Rodman,  a  stone  fort  erected  during  the 
Civil  War  with  modern  fortifications.  New  Bedford  is  one 
of  the  twenty-six  places  reported  by  the  United  States  Chief 
of  Engineers  in  1909  as  having  "permanent  coast  defences." 
The  older  portion  of  the  town,  especially  County  Street,  still 
contains  a  number  of  stately  old  residences  of  the  local  marine 
aristocracy.  A  century  ago  these  mansions  caused  Lady 
Wortley  to  call  New  Bedford  "a  city  of  palaces." 

South  of  New  Bedford  is  the  pleasant  little  village  of  Non- 
quit,  a  favorite  summering  place.  General  'Phil'  Sheridan 
of  Civil  War  fame  died  here,  and  it  was  the  summer  home  for 
many  years  of  Louisa  M.  Alcott.  Walter  Ricketson,  the  sculp- 
tor, had  a  studio  in  the  village,  and  it  is  still  a  resort  of  artists. 

Bartholomew  Gosnold  visited  the  site  of  New  Bedford  in  1602,  trad- 
ing with  the  Indians  at  the  mouth  of  the  Acushnet.  New  Bedford 
was  settled  from  the  old  Quaker  town  of  Dartmouth  to  the  southwest, 
and  called  Bedford  after  Joseph  Russell,  one  of  the  founders,  whose 
family  name  was  that  of  the  Dukes  of  Bedford.  Later,  the  name  was 
changed  to  'New'  Bedford  to  distinguish  it  from  the  town  of  Bedford 
in  Middlesex  County.  The  Quaker  element  has  always  been  impor- 
tant in  New  Bedford  and  prominent  in  its  affairs. 

During  the  Revolution,  the  harbor  became  a  rendezvous  for  Ameri- 
can privateers.  On  Sept.  5,  1778,  the  English  fleet  under  Earl  Grey 
made  a  disastrous  attack,  burning  more  than  seventy  ships.  Major 
John  Andre  marched  up  County  St.  and  burned  a  number  of  the  dwell- 
ings of  the  aristocracy  and  nearly  destroyed  the  town. 

The  whaling  industry  was  established  here  in  1765  by  Joseph  Rotch 
of  Nantucket.  By  1804  fifty-nine  whalers  registered  from  New  Bed- 
ford and  in  1845  it  was  the  fourth  port  of  the  United  States  in  regis- 
tered tonnage.  The  climax  of  whaling  came  in  1850  when  329  vessels 
were  registered  from  the  port,  representing  an  investment  of  $1 2,000,000 
and  employing  10,000  hands.  The  Civil  War  was  a  great  blow  to  the 
industry.  The  Confederates  sunk  more  than  twenty-five  vessels  and 
the  Federal  Government  purchased  many  of  the  ships  to  be  filled  with 
stones  and  sunk  at  harbor  mouths.  About  that  time  petroleum  suc- 
ceeded whale  oil  to  a  large1  extent.  Then  followed  losses  of  vessels  in 
the  Arctic  ice  in  1871  and  1878.  The  industry  has  struggled  on, 
however,  and  in  ioog  there  were  thirteen  steamers  and  six  other  ves- 
sels employed,  chiefly  in  sperm  whaling,  aggregating  a  tonnage  of 
4710.  In  1908  the  product  was  valued  at  $350,000;  in  10,11,  $268,000. 
Sometimes  one  of  the  old  whaling  ships  is  to  be  found  in  the  harbor 
and  a  visit  will  prove  interesting  to  those  not  too  susceptible  to  odors. 


R.    17.     PROVIDENCE   TO   BUZZARDS   BAY  437 

The  enormous  cotton  industry  dates  from  1847  when  Joseph  Grinnell 
established  his  mill  of  15,000  spindles  and  200  looms.  Other  articles 
manufactured  here  include  tools,  cordage,  woolen  and  silk  goods  and 
paints.  Almost  the  entire  product  of  hlackfish  oil  (derived  from  a 
species  of  small  whale,  and  by  sailors  called  "porpoise  jaw  oil"),  a 
lubricant  for  clocks  and  watches,  is  manufactured  here. 

One  of  the  oldest  of  American  papers  continuously  published,  the 
"Mercury,"  was  long  edited  here  by  William  Ellery  Channing.  The 
Free  Public  Library,  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  United  States,  dates  from 
1852  and  contains  valuable  collections  on  whaling  and  Quakers.  The 
Old  Dartmouth  Historical  Society  contains  a  most  interesting  collec- 
tion of  material  associated  with  the  early  history  of  Old  Dartmouth, 
and  a  collection  of  whaling  material. 

The  route  from  Providence  passes  through  New  Bedford  on 
Mill  St.,  turns  right  on  Pleasant  St.,  left  into  Middle  St., 
downgrade,  and  crossing  the  river.  The  bridges  command  a 
fine  view  down  the  harbor  with  great  mills  lining  the  water- 
front. On  the  islands  which  the  bridge  crosses  is  the  clock-oil 
factory  of  William  F.  Nye. 

34.5  FAIRHAVEN.  Pop  (twp)  5122  (1910),  6212  (1915).  Bristol 
Co.  Settled  1764.  Mfg.  tacks. 

Fairhaven,  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Acushnet  river  oppo- 
site New  Bedford,  is  a  quiet  town  with  handsome  elm-arched 
streets  and  some  fine  century-old  houses.  It  boasts  the  larg- 
est tack  factory  in  the  world. 

Henry  H.  Rogers  (1840-1909),  of  Standard  Oil  fame,  was 
the  town's  most  famous  native  and  most  liberal  benefactor. 
His  gifts  include  a  church  and  a  high  school  each  said  to  have 
cost  over  a  million  dollars,  a  town  hall,  the  Millicent  Library 
named  for  his  daughter,  and  the  Tabitha  Inn  named  for  his 
grandmother.  In  all,  his  gifts  aggregated  about  $4,000,000. 
On  account  of  its  picturesque  environs,  Fairhaven  was  a 
favorite  resort  of  the  artists  Bierstadt,  R.  Swain  Gifford, 
and  others.  Frederick  A.  Delano,  of  the  Federal  Reserve 
Board,  and  formerly  president  of  the  Wabash  R.R.,  has  an 
ancestral  estate  here  and  is  an  occasional  summer  resident. 

At  the  southern  end  of  the  town  is  Fort  Phoenix,  a  crum- 
bling Revolutionary  battery,  commanding  a  splendid  view  of 
the  harbor  of  New  Bedford.  The  estate  of  Henry  H.  Rogers, 
now  dismantled,  lines  both  sides  of  the  road  to  the  fort. 

The  route  leaves  Fairhaven  with  the  trolley,  with  occasional 
views  of  Buzzards  Bay,  following  the  red  markers  to 

39.S     MATTAPOISETT.     Pop  (twp)  1233  (1910),  1352  (1915).     Plym- 
outh Co.     Inc.  1857.     Indian  name,  "place  of  rest."     Mfg. 
peanut  roasters  and  poultry  supplies;  cranberries. 
Mattapoisett,  now  a  prosperous  summer  colony,  was  for- 
merly an  important  shipbuilding  center.     On  the  property  of 
the  late  Edward  Atkinson,  the  noted  statistician,  is  one  of  the 
largest  boulders  in  New  England,   forty-two  feet   high  and 


438  MATTAPOISETT— WAREHAM 


thirty-six  feet  across,  a  fragment  of  the  White  Mountains  de- 
posited here  by  the  glaciers.  Mattapoisett  was  the  birthplace 
of  Mrs.  Richard  Henry  Stoddard  and  here  was  the  scene  of 
her  novel  "The  Morgesons"  (1862). 

The  route  continues  over  rolling  country  with  views  of 
Buzzards  Bay.  A  detour  to  the  right  skirting  Angelica  Point 
and  Aucoot  Cove  may  be  made  with  a  few  miles'  additional 
travel.  This  passes  several  of  the  more  pretentious  summer 
estates  and  affords  excellent  views  of  the  Bay. 

45.0  MARION.  Pop  (twp)  1460  (1910),  1470  (1915).  Plymouth  Co. 
Settled  1680.  Indian  name  Sippican. 

Marion  has  become  perhaps  the  most  fashionable  resort  on 
Buzzards  Bay  and  a  number  of  extensive  estates  have  come 
into  being  here  during  the  last  decade.  The  quaint  old  fishing 
village  of  Marion  lies  at  the  head  of  Sippican  Harbor,  while  the 
summer  estates  border  both  sides  of  its  picturesquely  wooded 
shores.  The  summer  colony  is  made  up  of  families  from  Boston 
and  other  large  cities  as  far  west  as  St.  Louis.  On  the  western 
side  of  the  harbor  is  the  estate  of  Harry  Converse  of  rubber 
fame.  At  the  end  of  Blake  Point  is  the  Beverly  Yacht  Club, 
one  of  the  prominent  New  England  yachting  centers,  formerly 
at  Pocasset.  Frequent  regattas  are  held  here  during  the  season 
and  the  club  house  is  a  social  center.  It  is  the  headquarters 
of  Buzzards  Bay  racing.  On  Sippican  Neck  which  forms  the 
eastern  side  of  the  harbor  are  the  modern  and  extensive  estates. 
Among  the  older  are  the  Shepley,  Coolidge,  and  Nagel  places, 
while  near  Great  Neck  is  the  Galen  Stone  estate,  the  show 
place  of  Marion. 

The  route  connects  with  Route  31  at 

50.5     WAREHAM  (R.  31,  p  559). 


R.  18.     PROVIDENCE  to  NEWPORT.          28.5  m. 

Via  BRISTOL  FERRY. 

This  route,  open  only  in  summer,  is  the  most  attractive  one 
to  Newport.  In  winter,  when  the  Bristol  Ferry  is  not  running, 
the  alternative  route  via  Fall  River  must  be  taken.  The  sail 
to  Newport  down  Narragansett  Bay  is  very  attractive. 

From  Exchange  Place  cross  Market  Square,  turning  right 
on  South  Main  St.  Fork  left  (0.8)  and  turn  square  left  at  next 
corner.  At  the  corner  of  the  park  (1.3)  turn  right  and  then  left, 
crossing  Washington  Bridge  over  the  Seekonk  river  to  Watche- 
moket  Square. 

2.0  EAST  PROVIDENCE.  Pop  (twp)  17,369  (1910),  18,584  (19/5). 
Mfg.  handkerchiefs,  wire,  electrical  goods,  dyes,  chemicals, 
paper  and  cotton;  drydock  and  marine  railway;  oysters. 

East  Providence  is  a  populous  manufacturing  suburb  of 
Providence,  separated  from  the  latter  by  the  Seekonk  river. 

Bear  right  on  Warren  Ave.  and  right,  into  Barrington  Park- 
way, over  Fort  Hill.  The  Parkway  commands  fine  views  of 
the  harbor  and  bay.  Join  Pawtucket  Ave.  (4.5)  and  bear  left 
at  fork  (5.3),  on  Willett  Ave.  into  Pecks  Corner  (7.5). 

Note.  For  a  detour,  five  miles  longer,  along  the  bay  to 
lovely  Nayatt  Point,  R.  I.  Country  Club,  and  Rumstick  Point, 
keep  right  from  Pecks  Corner,  on  Washington  Road,  past 
West  Barrington  R.R.  crossing  (8.4)  and  Nayatt  Bridge  (9.3). 
Turn  right  (9.4),  curving  left  on  tree-arched  road  around 
Nayatt  Point  (9.7).  Straight  on  past  R.  I.  Country  Club 
(10.2).  Turn  right  into  Bay  Road  (11.2),  left  at  group  of 
large  buildings  (11.5)  into  Chachapacasset  Road.  Turn  right 
(11.9)  into  Rumstick  Road.  Rumstick  Point  (12.8)  end  of 
good  road.  Turn  around.  Turn  right  (13.7)  and  immediately 
left.  Turn  right  (14.0)  into  Ferry  Lane;  left  (14.7)  into 
Mathewson  Road  along  river  past  Barrington  Yacht  Club 
(15.3).  Turn  right  (15.5)  across  Barrington  river  bridge,  re- 
joining main  route. 

From  Pecks  Corner  the  main  route  turns  square  left  then 
right,  along  the  river,  crossing  R.R.  at  Barrington  Station 
(10.0),  then  left  with  trolley  into 

11.5     WARREN.     Pop  (twp)  6585  (1910),  7241   (1915).     Bristol  Co. 

Mfg.  cotton  goods. 

Warren  is  a  pleasant  old  town  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Warren  river  in  the  midst  of  a  rich,  undulating  farming  coun- 
try. It  was  a  prosperous  seaport  in  the  early  days,  and  there 
are  a  few  interesting  old  houses  here. 

Massasoit's  favorite  dwelling  is  said  to  have  been  here  near 
a  spring  which  is  called  after  him.  For  a  long  time  after  its 

(439) 


440  WARREN— BRISTOL 

settlement  this  town  was  a  part  of  Swansea  in  Massachusetts, 
but  in  1746  it  was  incorporated  as  a  separate  town  with  its  pres- 
ent name.  A  century  ago  the  docks  and  warehouses  were 
crowded  and  the  harbor  filled  with  shipping,  but  the  commer- 
cial importance  declined  with  that  of  Providence. 

The  route  continues  south  across  the  boundary  between  the 
towns  of  Warren  and  Bristol.  It  passes  some  fine  old  Colonial 
houses,  among  them  that  of  Captain  James  De  Wolf,  built 
in  1803.  De  Wolf  was  the  master  spirit  in  Bristol  during 
its  prosperous  seafaring  days.  His  ships  were  on  every  sea 
and  he  was  a  political  leader  as  well. 

Note.  At  white  marble  gates  (14.5)  beyond  cemetery,  a 
road  leads  to  the  magnificent  shore  drive  on  Popasquash 
Neck,  a  detour  of  four  miles  worth  taking.  A  sign  in  big,  bold 
letters  reads,  "Colt's  Farm,  Private  Property,  Public  Wel- 
come." "It  is,"  says  Elbert  Hubbard,  "a  farm  of  four  hun- 
dred acres,  with  two  miles  of  waterfront,  where  you  can  fish, 
shoot  ducks  or  dig  clams.  If  one  crop  fails,  others  make  good. 
It  is  a  park  and  playground  for  all  of  the  people.  So  here  we 
get  a  farm  that  is  more  than  a  farm.  The  barn  alone  cost 
one  hundred  thousand  dollars.  It  houses  a  herd  of  perhaps 
a  hundred  registered  Jersey  cattle.  It  is  a  lovely  herd  of 
cattle  all  right,  but  there  are  some  of  the  cows  that  are  old 
enough  to  vote." 

On  the  Neck  is  Hey-Bonnie  Hall,  the  De  Wolf-Middleton 
house  of  1808,  beautiful  and  simple  in  its  proportions,  with 
noble  columns  flanking  the  front  entrance. 

16.5     BRISTOL.     Pop  (twp)  9272  (1910),  10,302  (1915).     Bristol  Co. 
Settled  1680.     Port  of  Entry.     Mfg.  rubber  goods,  woolen 
and  worsteds;  shipyards  and  market  gardens. 
Bristol  is  a  quaint  old  shipbuilding  town,  dignified  and  mel- 
lowed with  age,  nestling  calmly  under  its  elms.     Situated  on 
rising  land  overlooking  its  safe  and  spacious  harbor  which  is 
protected  by  high  hills  and  Hog  Island  at  its  mouth,  Bristol 
is  still  famous  as  the  birthplace  of  the  Herreshoffs,  known  to 
all  interested  in  yachting,  and  for  its  fine  old  Colonial  houses. 
The  impairment  of  Newport's  prosperity  in  the  Revolution 
and  War  of  1812  resulted  in  a  boom  for  Bristol,  and  Bristol 
ship-owners   far   outstripped   in  wealth   the   early   merchant 
princes  of  Newport.     Edward  Everett  Hale  in  his  "Tarry  at 
Home  Travels"  says: 

"Do  not  by  any  means  neglect  to  go  to  Bristol — quaint,  old-fash- 
ioned, historic  and  beautiful.  You  see  there  were  days  when  the 
maritime  commerce  of  Bristol  was,  I  think,  quite  equal  to  that  of  New 
York;  certainly  in  advance  over  that  of  Boston — to  hold  Narragansett 
Bay  was  the  ambition  of  the  English  commanders  through  the  Revo- 
lution, and  there  is  many  a  Revolutionary  story,  now  of  battle,  now 
of  adventure,  now  of  intrigue,  of  these  waters  and  of  these  shores.  .  .  . 


R.   1 8.     PROVIDENCE   TO   NEWPORT 


441 


It  was  the  Bristol  slave  traders  whom  Mr.  Webster  rebuked  in  his 
Plymouth  address  of  1820.  1808  marked  the  year  when  the  slave 
trade  was  prohibited  almost  of  course  by  Congress.  But  the  shackles 
were  still  forged  in  Bristol  County  in  Massachusetts,  and  the  shackles 
went  from  Bristol  in  Rhode  Island  to  the  West  African  shore." 

On  Hope  St.,  by  which  we  enter  Bristol,  is  the  Maurice  house, 
of  fine  proportions,  with  an  especially  beautiful  doorway  and 
cornice.  Opposite  is  the  Churchill  house  built  by  Captain 
Churchill  of  the  famous  privateer  "Yankee,"  who  was  perhaps 
the  most  successful  freebooter  of  his  time.  Above  the  cornice 
is  the  "Bristol  parapet  rail"  with  American  eagles  perched  on 
each  corner,  carved  by  sailors  of  the  War  of  1812. 

The  architectural  distinction  of  Bristol's  houses  is  largely  due 
to  the  taste  of  Russell  Warren,  whose  work  is  well  exemplified 


THE   DE  WOLF-COLT   MANSION,  DESIGNED    BY   RUSSELL    WARREN 

in  the  De  Wolf-Colt  mansion,  also  on  Hope  St.,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  residential  structures  in  -New  England.  The 
front  door,  flanked  with  side  lights  and  surmounted  by  a  fan- 
light and  another  window,  with  leaded  panes,  is  a  notable 
arrangement  of  Corinthian  beauty.  The  roof  of  the  portico 
with  its  stately  fluted  columns  and  carved  acanthus  leaves  sets 
off  the  stately  dignity  of  this  architectural  style.  It  is  now 
the  residence  of  Colonel  Colt  and  is  called  Linden  Place. 

Colonel  Colt  has  done  much  for  the  town  of  Bristol.  The 
Colt  Memorial  School,  a  memorial  to  his  mother,  cost  $300,000. 
Adjoining  the  school  is  the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  also  the 
gift  of  Colonel  Colt.  The  rubber  business  in  Bristol  began  in 
the  sixties  and  went  into  the  hands  of  a  receiver  in  1887. 


442  BRISTOL— NEWPORT 

Out  of  this  bankrupt  beginning,  Colonel  Colt  in  a  few  years 
created  the  United  States  Rubber  Company,  which  has  a  capi- 
talization of  $100,000,000,  and  owns  rubber  plantations  all 
through  the  Far  East,  including  100,000  acres  in  Sumatra. 
The  Bristol  plant  makes  tennis  shoes  and  insulated  wire. 

The  Herreshoff  Manufacturing  Company  is  the  formal  title 
of  the  famous  yacht  builders.  It  is  a  partnership  of  John  B.  F. 
and  his  brother  Captain  Nat.  There  were  seven  brothers  in 
the  family  and  three  of  them  are  blind,  not  that  they  were 
born  so,  but  for  some  unaccountable  reason  blindness  over- 
took each  at  the  age  of  fourteen.  Before  that,  however,  John 
began  whittling  boats  as  soon  as  he  could  handle  a  jack-knife, 
and  before  he  became  blind  he  had  built  a  yacht  with  which  he 
sailed  the  Narragansett  Bay.  Total  blindness  did  not  seem 
to  have  affected  in  any  way  his  intrepid  spirit.  He  continued 
to  design  and  sail  boats  and  at  the  age  of  twenty-five  saved 
money  enough  to  establish  a  boatbuilding  plant,  and  later 
joined  in  partnership  with  his  youngest  brother. 

These  two  have  turned  out  an  incredible  number  of  sailing 
boats,  commercial  vessels,  and  torpedo  boats  for  private 
concerns,  the  United  States,  and  foreign  governments.  Their 
shipyards  are  the  birthplace  of  most  of  our  fastest  and  famous 
yachts, — the  "Stiletto,"  "Vamoose,"  "Navahoe,"  "Say 
When,"  and  "Now  Then."  Here  in  '93  were  built  the  famous 
cup  defenders  "Vigilant,"  and  later  the  "Defender,"  "Co- 
lumbia," and  "Reliance,"  and  a  long  line  of  yachts  that  have 
continued  to  keep  the  America's  Cup  on  this  side  of  the  Atlan- 
tic. Edward  Burgess  was  their  only  rival  in  yacht-building 
and  since  his  death  in  '91,  the  Herreshoff s  have  been  supreme. 

The  Herreshoffs  married  into  the  wealthy  old  Quaker  family 
of  the  Browns,  who  like  the  Herreshoffs  had  lived  for  generations 
in  Rhode  Island.  Captain  Nat  Herreshoff,  designer  of  the 
"Defender,"  lives  in  the  spacious  house  at  the  foot  of  Hope  St. 
John  B.,  his  partner,  died  in  July,  1915,  at  the  age  of  seventy- 
four.  He  had  not  limited  his  multifarious  activities,  and  had 
built  and  owned  the  best  hotel,  the  Belvedere,  in  the  town. 

General  Burnside  of  Civil  War  fame  was  a  resident  of  Bristol, 
and  a  memorial  building  commemorates  him.  Its  hall  con- 
tains Colonial,  Indian,  and  Civil  War  relics.  Mt.  Hope,  the 
abode  of  King  Philip,  is  a  mile  east  of  Bristol  on  Mt.  Hope  Bay. 

Bristol  Ferry  is  a  steam  ferry,  leaving  hourly,  Sundays  in- 
cluded; automobiles,  75  cts.  to  $i.     From  Bristol  Ferry  Land- 
ing on  the  island  of  Aquidneck,  the  route  turns  left  with  trolley 
(19.5),  joining  Route  32  from  Fall  River. 
28.5     NEWPORT  (R.  32,  p  585). 


R.  19.     PROVIDENCE  to  VERMONT.         230.5  m. 

Via  WOONSOCKET,  WORCESTER,  ATHOL,  NORTHFIELD, 
BRATTLEBORO,  MANCHESTER,  and  TICONDEROGA. 

This  route  traverses  New  England  diagonally  from  Provi- 
dence northwestward.  Its  sections  combine  to  advantage  with 
other  routes  to  make  up  complete  tours.  Through  Rhode 
Island  the  route  follows  State  highways  of  waterbound  and 
bituminous  macadam.  Through  Massachusetts  to  Athol  it 
follows  a  State  Highway  marked  continuously  by  yellow  bands 
on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts.  From  Athol  to  West 
Gardner  it  follows  Route  15,  marked  by  red  bands.  Sections 
of  State  Highway  and  dirt  and  gravel  roads  lead  to  Northfield 
whence  it  follows  Route  10  to  Brattleboro.  From  Brattleboro 
to  Manchester  the  road  is  a  Vermont  trunk  line  highway  with 
some  heavy  grades.  From  Manchester  through  Pawlet  and 
Poultney  to  the  New  York  line  the  route  traverses  town  and 
country  roads  of  dirt  and  gravel  construction. 


R.  19  §  1.     Providence  to  Worcester.  44  0  m. 

The  route  follows  the  valley  of  the  Blackstone  almost  con- 
tinuously to  Worcester.  This  river,  which  falls  about  400 
feet  in  its  course  of  45  miles,  is  perhaps  the  most  completely 
harnessed  river  in  the  country,  turning  over  300  mill  wheels 
and  developing  over  31,000  h.p.  in  more  than  100  mills.  This 
power  if  produced  from  coal  would  cost  annually  4  per  cent  on 
something  over  $25,000,000.  More  than  half  the  waterpower  of 
the  Blackstone  goes  to  waste  in  ordinary  times  for  lack  of 
storage  facilities,  and  the  mills  supplement  the  waterpower 
with  steam.  The  cotton-mill  towns  along  the  course  are  inter- 
esting industrially,  but  usually  grimy  and  slummy  in  appear- 
ance, with  a  large  foreign  element. 

Leaving  Providence  by  Francis  St.,  under  the  Union  Sta- 
tion, we  turn  right  on  Gaspee  St.  into  North  Main  and  Paw- 
tucket  Ave.,  through  the  'Ghetto'  the  most  ancient  section  of 
the  city.  On  the  outskirts  of  Pawtucket  (2.5)  at  the  five 
crossroads  and  the  watering  trough  turn  left  on  Main  St., 
continuing  on  Lonsdale  Ave.  through  the  western  outskirts  of 
Pawtucket  (p  194)  and 

J.5     CENTRAL  FALLS.     Pop  22,754   (1910),  23,708   (1915);  mostly 

French  Canadians. 

This  busy  overcrowded  little  city  occupies  less  than  a  square 
mile  and  is  the  most  densely  populated  in  Rhode  Island. 

Emerging  from  this  congested  district,  bear  right  at  next 
fork  (5.0).  On  the  left  is  the  great  bleachery  of  Saylesville 

(443) 


444  CENTRAL    FALLS— WORCESTER 

and  to  the  west  across  the  Moshassuck  valley  are  the  Lincoln 
Woods,  a  natural  park  and  forest  reservation  of  nearly  500 
acres  occupying  a  rocky  and  beautifully  diversified  region  about 
Olney  Pond. 

Bearing  right,  the  route  passes  Scott's  Pond  on  the  west 
and  the  broad  waters  of  Valley  Falls  Pond  on  the  east,  through 
the  '  Old  Village '  of  Lonsdale  in  the  town  of  Lincoln. 

Crossing  a  curious  old  wooden  bridge  over  the  Blackstone 
river,  the  State  Road  goes  through  (6.0)  Lonsdale,  the  'New 
Village,'  in  the  town  of  Cumberland.  This  cotton-mill  village 
is  famous  for  its  fine  cambrics  that  have  been  made  here  for 
upwards  of  a  century. 

Here  is  the  grave  of  and  a  monument  to  William  Blaxton, 
better  known  as  Blackstone,  the  eccentric  hermit  of  Shawmut, 
who,  fleeing  the  multitude  of  settlers,  in  1634,  sold  his  land 
and  with  the  money  bought  a  stock  of  cows,  traveling  through 
the  wilderness  to  a  place  called  the  Gore,  now  Cumberland, 
R.I.  The  site  of  Blackstone's  house  is  marked  by  a  granite 
block  surrounded  by  massive  mills.  In  the  orchards  he  planted 
were  raised  the  first  apples  in  what  is  now  Rhode  Island,  and, 
as  he  rode  about  the  country  on  his  tame  cream-colored  bull, 
he  carried  the  fruit  in  his  pockets  to  give  to  the  children.  His 
name  has  been  given  to  the  river  and  the  town  beyond. 

The  route  follows  the  Mendon  Road,  through  the  outskirts 
of  a  nearly  continuous  string  of  prosperous-looking  mill  vil- 
lages. The  principal  one  of  these  is 

8.5     ASHTON.     Alt   93  ft.     Pop    (Cumberland    twp)    9929    (1915). 

Providence  Co.     Settled  1634. 

The  valley  of  the  Blackstone  from  here  on  is  narrow,  with 
the  hills  rising  on  either  side  from  200  to  300  feet.  The  road 
runs  along  the  ridge  of  Cumberland  Hill,  at  an  elevation  of 
over  300  feet  above  the  valley  and  gradually  descends  into  the 
outskirts  of  Woonsocket.  Turning  to  the  left  we  cross  the 
Blackstone  river,  then  go  over  the  big  bridge  at  Hamlet  Ave., 
meeting  Route  3,  from  New  York  and  Hartford  to  Boston. 

16.0     WOONSOCKET  (R.  3, p  217). 

Turn  right  on  Main  St.  to  Monument  Square.  Social  Street 
(Route  3)  leads  straight  ahead  to  Boston.  Turn  square  left  on 
Blackstone  St.  over  R.R.  Between  Woonsocket  and  Black- 
stone  the  route  crosses  the  State  line  and  thence  is  clearly 
marked  by  the  Massachusetts  Highway  Commission  with 
yellow  bands  on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts. 

17.5     BLACKSTONE.     Alt    214  ft.     Pop    (twp)    5648    (1910),    56S9 
(1915).     Worcester  Co.     Settled  1700.     Mfg.  rubber  boots 
and  shoes,  felt,  and  cotton. 
Here  are  important  cotton,  woolen,  and  rubber  mills.     Power 


R.    19  §   2.     WORCESTER   TO   BRATTLEBORO  445 

is  supplied  in  addition  to  the  Blackstone  by  a  number  .of 
streams  which  tumble  down  from  the  hills.  Fox  Brook  flows 
through  the  town  from  its  source  north  of  Waterbug  Hill. 
The  town  bears  the  name  of  William  Blackstone,  above  men- 
tioned, first  settler  on  the  site  of  Boston. 

The  route  continues  through  Millville  (20.5),  where  there  is 
a  rubber-boot  plant. 

24,5  UXBRIDGE.  Alt  259  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4671  (1910),  4921  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Inc.  1727.  Indian  name  Wacuntug.  Mfg. 
woolens  and  worsteds,  cotton,  granite, 

Uxbridge  was  detached  from  Mendon,  the  mother  town  to 
the  north,  in  1727  and  was  named  in  honor  of  Henry  Paget, 
Earl  of  Uxbridge.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  Ex-president  Will- 
iam H.  Taft's  grandfather,  Peter  Ranson  Taft.  The  original 
house  is  not  standing,  but  the  farm  is  shown.  There  is  also 
an  old  inn  where  Washington  stayed  overnight. 

From  Uxbridge  continue  straight  ahead  to  Linwood  (26.0). 

Note.  The  road  straight  ahead  leads  through  Whitinsville 
(26.5),  named  for  the  Whitin  family  who  established  the  fa- 
mous cotton  machinery  plant  here.  The  Whitin  Corporation 
has  made  itself  notable  for  the  inauguration  of  advanced  living 
conditions  and  model  villages  for  its  employees.  From  Whit- 
insville the  road  turns  right  over  R.R.  and  then  left  with  the 
trolley,  joining  the  main  route  at  Northbridge  (30.0). 

From  Linwood  the  State  Road  turns  to  the  right,  following 
the  valley  of  the  Blackstone,  and  the  yellow  bands  through 

30.5  NORTHBRIDGE.  Alt  284  ft.  Pop  (twp)  8807  (1910),  9254 
(1915).  Worcester  Co.  Inc.  1772.  Mfg.  cotton,  foundry 
and  machine-shop  products. 

Northbridge  has  valuable  waterpower  derived  from  the 
Blackstone  and  Mumford  rivers. 

We  continue  north  through  Farnumsville  (33.0),  where  the 
lefthand  road  leads  through  the  textile  town  of  Millbury,  in 
therBlackstone  valley,  to  Worcester  (44.0). 

The  main  route,  with  yellow  markers,  passes  through  Graf- 
ton  (36.0)  on  Route  24  and  over  the  hills,  crossing  Route  i  at 

44.0     WORCESTER  (R.l,pl36). 


R.  19  §  2.     Worcester  to  Brattleboro.  74  5  m. 

Via  ATHOL  and  NORTHFIELD. 

This  route  leads  across  the  eastern  hill  country  of  Massa- 
chusetts through  some  of  the  more  interesting  hill  towns,  a 
few  of  which  have,  remained  remote  and  little  changed  for 
generations.  From  Worcester  to  West  Rutland  two  routes 


446  WORCESTER— PETERSHAM 

are  available, — the  State  Road,  marked  by  yellow  bands, 
through  Holden,  and  a  shorter  route  past  theTatnuck  Country 
Club,  to  Paxton. 

Note.  From  City  Hall  the  shorter  route  turns  west  on 
Pleasant  St.  past  Elm  Park  on  the  right.  Climbing  a  rather 
s£eep  hill  (3.5),-  we  descend  into  the  hamlet  of  Tatnuck,  with 
a  cloth  mill,  in  the  valley  of  Tatnuck  Brook.  Beyond  on  the 
slope  of  Tatnuck  Hill  is  the  Tatnuck  Country  Club.  On  the 
slope  of  the  hill  to  the  north  of  the  village  are  remains  of  a 
stone  Tory  fort,  built  at  the  opening  of  the  Revolution, 
reached  by  Tatnuck  Lane,  a  romantic  path  through  the  mead- 
ows and  woods.  On  the  route  before  entering  Paxton  is 
Asnebumskit  Hill  (1300  ft). 

8.0     PAXTON.     Alt    1100  ft.     Pop    (twp)    416    (1910),   471    (1915). 
Worcester  Co.     Inc.  1765. 

The  town  is  named  for  Charles  Paxton,  one  of  the  Colonial 
commissioners  of  customs  of  Boston. 

Keep  to  the  left  through  the  village;  the  righthand  roads 
lead  to  Rutland.  Just  beyond  West  Rutland  (14.0),  the  road 
joins  the  State  Road  through  Holden  and  Rutland. 

The  route  via  Holden  leaves  from  the  City  Hall  by  Main 
St.  and  Grove  St.  to  the  west  of  Indian  Lake  or  North  Pond. 
Following  the  State  Road,  marked  with  yellow  bands  on  the 
telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts,  we  enter 

7.0  HOLDEN.  Alt  762  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2147  (1910),  2514  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Inc.  1740.  Mfg.  leather,  woolens  and  worsteds. 

The  town  was  named  for  the  Hon.  Samuel  Holden,  director 
of  the  Bank  of  England,  whose  family  name  is  also  honored 
in  Holden  Chapel  at  Harvard  University. 

The  State  Road  continues  through  Eagleville  to 

13.5  RUTLAND.  Alt  1200  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1743  (1910),  1895  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Inc.  1713.  Indian  name  Naquag.  Mfg. 
woolen  and  worsted  goods. 

The  town  is  the  highest  in  Massachusetts  east  of  the  Con- 
necticut and  stands  on  a  hill  overlooking  a  vast  basin.  This 
basin  has  been  called  'The  Cradle  of  Ohio,'  for  it  was  from  the 
early  settlers  here  that  Rufus  Putnam  in  1787  gathered  to- 
gether the  little  company  that  went  forth  to  found  the  first 
settlement  in  Ohio.  In  the  valley  200  feet  below  the  town 
the  Massachusetts  Central  R.R.  reaches  the  highest  point  in 
its  course  through  the  State,  1001  feet.  On  a  hillside  to  the 
southeast  of  the  town  is  the  State  Consumptive  Hospital  and 
an  outdoor  camp  for  prisoners  suffering  from  consumption. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill  to  the  west  stands  the  old  Rufus 
Putnam  house,  substantial  and  four-square.  It  is  now  the 


R.  19  §  2.  WORCESTER  TO  BRATTLEBORO  447 

headquarters  of  the  Rutland  Historical  Society,  and  at  a  dedi- 
cation to  the  purpose  in  1894  speeches  were  made  by  Senator 
Hoar  and  Edward  Everett  Hale.  A  bronze  tablet  placed 
upon  the  house  in  1898  by  the  Sons  of  the  Revolution  tells  the 
interesting  story  of  Rufus  Putnam's  life  and  achievements. 

Rufus  Putnam  (1738-1824),  of  the  Putnam  family  of  Danvers 
(R.  37)  and  a  cousin  of  General  Israel  Putnam  (p  75),  was  born  in 
the  town  of  Sutton,  south  of  Worcester.  He  served  with  distinction 
in  the  French  and  Indian  and  in  the  Revolutionary  Wars.  In  1780 
he  bought  a  confiscated  Tory  farm  at  Rutland  and  six  years  later 
founded  the  Ohio  Company  of  Associates  for  the  settlement  of  western 
lands.  In  1788  he  led  the  small  party  of  Rutland  and  Danvers  people 
which  founded  Marietta,  Ohio.  He  is  thus  called  'The  Father  of  Ohio.' 

In  the  northern  part  of  the  town  Judge  Sewall  had  a  farm  of  1000 
acres,  and  he  gave  the  sacramental  vessels  to  the  church.  The  Ancient 
and  Honorable  Artillery  Company  had  a  grant  of  500  acres  here. 
During  the  Revolution  a  large  detachment  of  Burgoyne's  army  was 
quartered  here  after  their  surrender  at  Saratoga.  The  prisoners' 
barracks  stood  for  half  a  century  in  a  field  to  the  south  of  the  Putnam 
house,  and  the  well  dug  by  the  soldiers  is  still  shown.  Three  of  the 
officers  fell  in  love  with  Rutland  girls  and  took  them  back  to  England 
as  their  wives.  The  story  of  Betsy,  whose  girlhood  was  passed  in  a 
Rutland  shanty,  is  most  romantic.  She  married  in  New  York  a 
wealthy  Frenchman,  Stephen  Jumel,  and  when  left  a  widow  married 
for  second  choice  Aaron  Burr. 

This  region  was  deeded  by  the  Indians  in  1686.  The  town  was 
named  on  its  incorporation,  1713,  from  Rutland,  the  smallest  county 
in  England.  In  1723  Deacon  Meadows  and  his  four  sons  while  making 
hay  in  the  meadow,  a  little  way  from  where  the  meeting  house  now 
stands,  were  surprised  by  five  Indians,  and  two  of  the  sons  slain,  the 
other  two  made  prisoners. 

[From  Rutland  a  State  Road  is  under  construction  through 
Hubbardston  (15.0)  to  Gardner  (25.0).] 

The  route  continues  through  Coldbrook  Springs  (17.5)  to 

22.0  BARRE.  Alt  950  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2957  (1910),  3476  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Inc.  1749.  Mfg.  cotton  and  woolen  goods, 
agricultural  implements. 

Originally  known  as  Rutland  District  and  later  Hutchinson, 
in  1776  it  was  named  in  honor  of  Colonel  Isaac  Barre,  an  Irish 
orator  and  soldier  who  favored  the  American  cause. 

In  the  northwestern  part  of  the  town  is  a  huge  boulder  or 
rocking  stone.  On  a  hillside  overlooking  the  Ware  river  val- 
ley Jacob  Riis  established  his  summer  home  on  an  old  farm  in 
the  eastern  part  of  the  town.  The  farm  is  on  the  Hubbardston 
road,  four  miles  from  the  center  of  Barre.  At  his  own  request, 
the  body  of  Jacob  Riis  was  buried  in  the  Riverside  cemetery, 
in  sight  of  his  home. 

30.0     PETERSHAM.     Alt  1080ft.     Pop  (twp)  727  (1910),  757  (1915). 

Worcester  Co.     Inc.  1754.     Indian  name  Nitchawog.     Mfg. 

boxes.     Named  for  Petersham  in  England. 
The  Harvard  forest  at  Petersham  consists  of  about  2000 
acres  of  hilly  forested  land  in  three  blocks  of  850,  550,  and  600 


448  PETERSHAM— MANCHESTER 

acres  respectively  to  the  northeast,  northwest,  and  southeast 
of  the  village.  It  is  used  by  the  forestry  department  of  Har- 
vard as  an  outdoor  laboratory  in  which  to  teach  the  principles 
of  technical  forestry  and  the  methods  of  logging  operations 
and  forestry  management.  On  the  northeast  tract  are  the 
living  quarters  and  class  rooms.  There  is  a  total  stand  of 
10,000,000  board  feet  of  merchantable  timber,  chiefly  white 
pine,  the  rest  chestnut,  oak,  and  other  hard  woods. 

From  Petersham  the  route  continues  straight  ahead,  joining 
Route  15  (p  417)  at 

39.0     ATHOL  (p  417). 

From  here  the  route  follows  the  red  markers  to  Orange 
(43.5)  and  West  Orange  (47.0).  The  route  now  turns  north- 
ward, following  the  signs,  "Warwick."  Beyond  the  bridge 
the  route  forks  right,  into 

51.2  WARWICK.  Alt  950  ft.  Pop  (twp)  477  (1910-15).  Franklin 
Co.  Settled  1744.  Indian  name  Shaomet. 

This  is  an  isolated  hill  town  that  has  been  left  stranded  by 
the  development  of  railroad  transportation.  This  territory 
was  originally  called  Roxbury  Canada  from  the  fact  that  it 
was  granted  to  the  descendants  of  thirty-nine  soldiers  from 
Roxbury,  all  but  one  of  whom  perished  in  the  expedition  to 
Canada  in  1690.  On  incorporation  in  1763  the  town  was 
named  in  honor  of  the  Earl  of  Warwick.  Mt.  Grace,  rising  to 
1600  feet  immediately  below  the  town,  according  to  one  legend 
was  named  for  Grace  Rowlandson,  the  little  daughter  of  Mrs. 
Rowlandson,  who  was  taken  captive  by  the  Indians  at  Lan- 
caster (p  502).  In  the  retreat  the  child  died  after  crossing 
Millers  River,  but  the  mother  carried  the  dead  body  of  her 
infant  until  she  reached  the  foot  of  this  mountain,  where  she 
"reluctantly  consigned  the  child  to  its  grave."  On  the  moun- 
tain is  a  reservation  of  the  Appalachian  Mountain  Club. 

Turn  left  beyond  park,  forking  twice  to  the  right  and  then 
left,  right,  and  left,  entering  Route  10  (p  335)  at 

60.5     NORTHFIELD. 

For  Northfield  to  Brattleboro  (74.5)  see  Route  10  (p  336). 


R.  19  §  3.     Brattleboro  to  Manchester.  52.0  m. 

This  route  follows  the  beautiful  West  river  valley  to  Rawson- 
ville,  crossing  Peru  Mountain  at  an  altitude  of  1630  feet  by 
the  oldtime  turnpike  (automobiles,  50  cents).  The  road  is 
mostly  good  gravel  or  dirt  surface  and  abounds  in  fine  views. 
As  a  State  Highway  the  town  lines  are  marked  by  sign  posts. 

The  route  leaves  Brattleboro  by  Linden  St.,  the  left  fork  off 
Main  St.  north  of  the  Town  Hall,  and  follows  West  River  to 


R.  19  §  3.  BRATTLEBORO  TO  MANCHESTER          449 

6.0     WEST  DUMMERSTON.     Alt  390  ft.    Pop  (twp)  643.     Wind- 
ham  Co.     Settled  1752.     Mfg.  granite. 

The  town  was  named  for  Lieutenant-governor  Dummer  of 
Massachusetts,  one  of  the  early  proprietors.  Black  Mountain 
(1269  ft)  across  the  stream  is  a  mass  of  light  gray  granite. 
Two  miles  further  on  the  road  winds  through  a  defile  often 
called  'The  Valley  of  the  Shadow  of  Death.' 

12.0  NEWFANE.  Alt  570  ft.  Pop  (twp)  820.  Shire  town  of  Wind- 
ham  Co.  Settled  1766.  Mfg.  lumber. 

Fronting  the  attractive  common  is  the  court  house  and  on 
the  outskirts  of  the  village  are  several  summer  homes.  At  the 
old  Field  Homestead,  Eugene  Field  spent  a  part  of  his  child- 
hood and  based  several  poems  on  these  early  days.  In  colonial 
days  at  the  whipping  post  a  woman  for  uttering  counterfeit 
money  received  thirty-nine  lashes. 

16.0  TOWNSHEND.  Alt  850  ft.  Pop  (twp)  817.  Windham  Co. 
Settled  1764.  Mfg.  wood  products. 

Leland  and  Gray  Seminary,  near  the  shady  village  Green, 
was  established  under  Ex-president  Taft's  grandfather  in  1834. 
His  son  it  was  who  showed  Yale  'bull-dog'  grit  by  walking  all 
the  way  to  New  Haven  to  attend  Yale  College. 

The  road  turns  sharply  to  the  left  at  the  Green.  Beyond 
the  dangerous  grade  crossing  (17.5),  the  West  river  is  on  the 
left.  The  road  leads  straight  through  West  Townshend  (21.0) 
and  down  a  steep  descent  with  a  hidden  curve  to  the  right. 

25.5  JAMAICA.  Alt  660  ft.  Pop  (twp)  716.  Windham  Co.  Set- 
tled 1780.  Mfg.  wood  products. 

To  the  north  are  Ball  Mountain  (1745  ft)  and  Shatterack 
(1940  ft)  in  the  gap  beyond,  with  Hamilton  Falls,  about  120 
feet  high,  on  Cobb  Brook,  a  splendid  sight  in  high  water.  A 
detour  of  three  and  one  half  miles  on  the  Windham  road  leads 
to  this  cascade.  With  an  eye  to  summer  home  seekers  Jamaica 
in  1912  exempted  from  taxation  for  five  years  all  improvements 
of  $250  or  more. 

Continuing  up  maple-shaded  Main  St.,  the  road  crosses  roll- 
ing country  to  the  hamlet  of  Rawsonville  (30.5). 

Note.  The  lefthand  and  shorter  route  (six  miles  less)  con- 
tinues straight  through  Bondville  (32.5)  climbing  westward  to 
Route  43,  which  it  joins  (41.5)  five  miles  west  of  Peru  village. 
(Toll  50  cents,  one  mile  west  of  junction.) 

The  more  traveled  road  turns  right  over  the  bridge  at  the 
eastern  end  of  Rawsonville  and  takes  the  left  fork  a  mile  be- 
yond. Thence  it  continues  straight  through  to  South  London- 
derry (34.5).  At  Londonderry  (37.0)  it  joins  Route  43  (p  723). 

52.0    MANCHESTER  (R.  5, p  262). 


450  MANCHESTER— TICONDEROGA 

R.  19  §  4.     Manchester  to  Ticonderoga.  60.0  m. 

Leaving  Manchester  the  route  turns  left  in  Manchester 
Center  (i.o)  up  the  West  Branch  of  the  Battenkill. 

7.5     DORSET.     Alt  940  ft.     Pop  (twp)  1472.     Bennington  Co.     Set- 
tled 1768.     Mfg.  marble  and  lumber. 

Dorset  is  a  quiet  village  in  a  charming  valley  of  ponds  and 
trout  streams.  The  marble  quarries  in  East  Dorset,  on  Route 
5  (p  262),  have  been  worked  since  1785.  The  old  tavern  of 
Cephas  Kent  on  July  24,  1776,  was  the  scene  of  the  first  con- 
vention to  consider  the  organization  of  Vermont  as  a  State. 

Passing  next  through  the  hamlets  of  East  Rupert  (9.5)  and 
North  Rupert  (11.5)  the  highway  follows  the  Mettawee  river. 
16.0    PAWLET.     Alt  535  ft.     Pop   (twp)   1959.     Rutland  Co.     Set- 
tled 1765.     Mfg.  slate  and  cheese. 

This  hill  village  nestles  between  three  heights,  Town  Hill 
and  Sargent  Hill  facing  The  Pattern  (1860  ft).  There  are  slate 
quarries  and  the  dairies  turn  3,000,000  pounds  of  cheese  yearly. 

The  road  curves  left  round  Haystack  Mountain  (1919  ft)  and 
then  to  the  right  through  North  Pawlet  (19.0)  and  Wells  (21.5) 
and  passes  Little  Pond  on  the  right  and  its  larger  and  lovelier 
companion,  Lake  St.  Catherine,  on  the  left. 
29.5  POULTNEY.  Alt  430  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1474.  Rutland  Co.  Set- 
tled 1771.  Mfg.  slate,  machinery,  shirts,  and  lumber. 

This  busy  little  manufacturing  town  obtains  power  from  the 
Poultney  river,  which  is  the  New  York  State  line.  Horace 
Greeley,  editor  of  the  "New  York  Tribune"  in  the  Civil  War, 
began  newspaper  work  here,  setting  type  on  the  "Northern 
Spectator"  as  an  apprentice  in  1826-30. 

The  route  crosses  the  Poultney  river  (30.0)  and  beyond 
Hampton  (30.5)  recrossesthe  Poultney  river  into 

35.0  FAIR  HAVEN.  Alt  375  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2554.  Rutland  Co. 
Settled  1779.  Mfg.  slate,  shirts,  and  foundry  products. 

Route  44,  to  Lake  George,  passes  through  the  town. 

The  highway  continues  northward  through  a  rolling  farm 
country,  leaving  the  village  of  Benson  one  mile  to  the  left 
(44.0).  Crossing  the  Addison  County  line  (48)  the  route 
turns  to  the  left  at  the  crossroads  (51.5),  and  westward  across 
East  Creek  to  Chipman's  Point,  and  then  descending  to  Mt. 
Independence  (300  ft),  on  which  is  a  monument. 

A  strong  fort  was  erected  by  Kosciusko,  the  Polish  patriot,  who 
planned  Fort  Ticonderoga.  The  American  troops  were  stationed  here 
in  1776  and  on  July  28  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  read  to 
them.  This  incident  gave  the  hill  its  name.  Breastworks  near  the 
ferry  landing  and  a  floating  bridge  to  Ticonderoga  were  built  under 
'Mad  Anthony'  Wayne. 

Crossing  Lake  Champlain  (57.0)  by  ferry  (toll  50  cts.-$i), 
the  road  continues  past  Fort  Ticonderoga  to 
6.00     TICONDEROGA. 


R.  20.     BOSTON   and    CAMBRIDGE. 

No  adequate  treatment  of  Boston  is  possible  within  the  limits 
of  this  volume.  Bacon's  admirable  little  Guide  Book  (Ginn  &  Co.} 
is  recommended. 

BOSTON.  Pop  670,585  (1910),  745,439  (1915);  over  one  third  for- 
eign-born. County-seat  of  Suffolk  Co.  Settled  1630.  Indian 
name  Shawmut,  "sweet  waters."  Port  of  Entry.  State 
Capital.  Mfg.  leather,  shoes  and  shoe  stock,  machinery, 
foundry  products,  clothing,  pianos  and  musical  instruments, 
rubber  goods,  refined  sugar,  malt  liquors,  confectionery,  oleo- 
margarine; printing  and  publishing.  Extensive  foreign  and 
domestic  commerce  in  leather  products,  flour,  grain,  sugar, 
cotton,  meats,  and  New  England  manufactures.  Value  of 
Product  (1913),  $560,390,000;  Payroll,  $107,031,000.  Steam- 
ships to  all  important  domestic  and  foreign  ports. 

Boston,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  interesting  cities  in  the 
United  States,  is  the  capital  of  Massachusetts,  the  commercial 
metropolis  of  New  England  and  •  the  so-called  'Athens  of 
America.'  It  is  a  great  center  of  manufacturing,  and  has 
twenty-five  per  cent  of  the  factories  of  Massachusetts.  In  or 
near  Boston  are  the  principal  shoe  and  shoe  machinery  centers 
of  the  world,  the  leading  textile  and  chocolate  industries  of  the 
United  States,  the  largest  watch  and  the  largest  confectionery 
factories  in  the  world.  It  is  the  greatest  wool  market  in  the 
country,  with  a  single  warehouse  that  can  store  one  third  of 
the  year's  clip  of  the  United  States.  It  is  also  the  largest  fish 
market  in  the  country,  with  a  single  pier  that  annually  handles 
100,000  tons  of  fresh  fish. 

Boston  is  the  second  richest  trade  center  of  the  Western 
Hemisphere  and  is  perhaps  the  wealthiest  city  in  America  in 
proportion  to  its  population.  One  thirteenth  of  the  bank 
clearings  of  the  country  are  made  in  Boston  and  one  fifth  of 
the  savings  of  the  American  people  are  in  Massachusetts  banks. 
Boston  has  a  purchasing  power  per  capita  greater  than  any 
other  large  city  in  the  world,  a  fact  which  explains  why  Boston 
is  "the  best  show  town  in  the  United  States."  v 

The  population  of  Boston  according  to  the  1910  Census  was 
23.5  per  cent  of  native-born  parentage,  or  three  fourths  of 
foreign  parentage.  Only  Chicago,  New  York,  and  Milwaukee 
among  the  larger  cities  of  the  country  had  a  smaller  percentage 
of  American  parentage.  Boston  had  a  larger  percentage  of 
foreign-born,  39.5,  than  any  other  large  city  except  New  York, 
with  40.4.  The  Irish  Roman  Catholics  have  long  predomi- 
nated and  for  the  past  twenty  years  have  controlled  the 
municipal  government.  It  was  formerly  the  greatest  Irish 
city  of  the  world  but  in  this  respect  as  in  many  others  has 
recently  been  outstripped  by  New  York. 

Us») 


452  BOSTON 

Boston  is  an  important  seaport  with  a  growing  foreign 
commerce.  Nearer  to  European  ports  by  a  day's  sail  than 
New  York,  its  position  gives  it  a  great  advantage  which  has, 
however,  never  been  fully  realized.  Its  excellent  but  somewhat 
restricted  harbor  is  reached  by  a  rather  narrow  channel  which 
has  been  deepened  and  straightened.  Great  plans  have  been 
formulated  for  the  extension  of  its  foreign  commerce  and  a 
few  years  ago,  with  a  tremendous  flourish  of  trumpets,  a  prop- 
aganda was  instituted  and  $9,000,000  appropriated  for  port 
development,  but  its  disposition  proved  a  political  scandal, 
the  Chairman  of  the  Port  Directors  declaring  that  a  large 
proportion  of  the  money  had  been  wasted.  The  port  has  the 
largest  steamship  pier  in  the  world  and  is  building  what  will 
be  the  largest  drydock. 

Boston  is  foremost  among  American  cities  as  an  educational 
center  and  has  a  student  population  of  upward  of  20,000. 
Within  the  limits  of  Greater  Boston  are  Harvard  University, 
Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology,  Radcliffe  College, 
Tufts  College,  Boston  University,  Boston  College,  Simmons 
College,  the  New  England  Conservatory  of  Music,  and  scores 
of  lesser  educational  institutions.  It  has  been  the  most  sig- 
nificant American  city  in  the  history  of  American  literature 
and  in  the  development  of  American  taste  in  music  and  art. 
Until  the  later  decades  of  the  last  century  Boston  was  the 
literary  center  of  the  country  because  of  the  pre-eminence  of 
the  New  England  writers  who  lived  in  or  near  Boston.  The 
"North  American  Review"  established  in  Boston  in  1815  and 
the  "Atlantic  Monthly"  in  1857  exerted  a  wide  influence  in 
that  period.  The  Handel  and  Haydn  Society  (1815),  the 
Harvard  Musical  Association  (1837),  and  the  Symphony 
Orchestra  (1881)  have  done  much  for  music  not  only  locally 
but  nationally. 

A  city  of  local  color  and  characteristic  atmosphere,  it  is 
sometimes  regarded  as  provincial,  but  Bostonians,  conscious 
that  they  are  the  guardians  of  national  traditions  and  noble 
associations,  are  not  troubled  by  such  criticism.  Perhaps 
this  self-consciousness  creates  a  spirit  of  conservatism  that 
colors  Boston's  mentality.  The  'typical  Bostonian'  may  be 
recognized  it  is  said  by  a  certain  hauteur  and  consciousness  of 
ancestry  and  culture.  Almost  involuntarily  he  regards  with 
something  of  tolerance  and  condescension  those  unfortunate 
enough  to  be  born  in  sections  remote  from  Beacon  Hill,  whether 
in  Chelsea  or  Manhattan.  Social  Boston,  if  there  is  such  a 
thing,  is  an  elusive  entity.  There  is  no  common  ideal  like  that  of 
wealth  and  power  which  makes  New  York  a  social  possibility, 
and  many  prominent  Bostonians  do  not  live  in  Boston. 


R.    20.     BOSTON  AND   CAMBRIDGE  453 

Optimistic  Captain  John  Smith  sailed  into  Boston  Harbor  in  1614 
and  loyally  named  the  river  "Charles."  Describing  the  region  as  the 
"paradise  of  all  these  parts"  he  says,  "Of  all  the  four  parts  of  the 
world  that  I  have  yet  seen  not  inhabited,  I  would  rather  live  here  than 
anywhere."  Within  a  year  after  the  Pilgrims  settled  in  Plymouth, 
Captain  Miles  Standish  came  up  the  coast  in  a  shallop.  He  explored 
Boston  Harbor,  trafficked  with  the  Indians  along  the  Mystic  and  took 
back  to  Plymouth  "a  good  report  of  the  place,  wishing  we  had  been 
seated  there." 

In  the  early  summer  of  1630  John  Winthrop,  Governor  of  Massa- 
chusetts, having  landed  at  Naumkeag,  now  Salem,  and  not  finding  it 
to  his  mind,  again  set  sail  and  on  June  17  reached  Charlestown  in  his 
"admiral  ship"  the  "Arbella."  There  he  found  the  beginning  of  a 
settlement  and  a  "great  house"  which  he  took  possession  of  with  the 
intention  of  here  making  his  "capital  town."  This  had  been  begun 
the  year  before  by  men  from  Salem  who  came  overland. 

At  Winnisimmet,  now  Chelsea,  they  had  found  the  "palisadoed" 
house  of  Samuel  Maverick,  "a  young  gentleman  of  good  estate."  At 
Michawum,  now  Charlestown,  was  the  humbler  palisaded  and  thatched 
dwelling  of  Thomas  Walford,  blacksmith,  with  his  wife  and  children. 
At  Shawmut,  on  the  slope  of  Beacon  Hill,  near  what  is  now  Louisburg 
Square,  was  the  cottage  and  orchard  of  William  Blaxton  (Blackstone), 
a  "solitary  bookish  recluse,"  who  had  been  there  since  1623.  These 
'Old  Planters'  were  the  survivors  of  the  colonists  whom  Ferdinando 
Gorges  and  his  son  Robert  had  settled  on  Massachusetts  Bay  some 
years  before  (p  675).  They  were  Church  of  England  men,  but  none 
the  less  on  this  account  inclined  to  friendliness  toward  the  incoming 
Puritan  nonconformists.  Maverick  gave  Winthrop  a  good  dinner 
upon  his  arrival,  and  later  Blaxton  cordially  invited  the  newcomers  to 
settle  on  his  peninsula. 

Winthrop's  company  of  1500  camped  as  best  they  coflld,  in  impro- 
vised huts,  booths,  and  tents.  Ill-supplied  with  provisions,  hot  weather 
and  the  brackish  water  from  the  only  spring  caused  much  illness  and 
the  death  of  200.  Some  discouraged  returned  to  England;  others 
went  to  Dorchester  and  joined  friends  already  camping  there.  Several 
score  with  Sir  Richard  Saltonstall  sailed  up  the  Charles  and  settled 
Watertown.  Another  group  under  the  leadership  of  Isaac  Johnson  in 
response  to  Blaxton's  invitation  and  attracted  by  the  springs  of  pure 
water  settled  at  Tri-mountain  and  were  later  joined  by  the  Governor 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  Colonists.  They  named  the  place  Boston 
in  honor  of  the  town  in  Lincolnshire  whence  Johnson  had  come. 

The  frame  of  the  Governor's  house,  already  begun  across  the  Charles, 
was  brought  over  and  set  up  on  the  site  of  the  present  Exchange 
Building,  where  he  lived  for  thirteen  years.  Later  he  built  a  house 
near  the  Old  South  Church  which  existed  until  during  the  siege  of 
Boston  it  was  chopped  up  for  firewood  by  the  British.  In  1631  the 
bark  "Blessing  of  the  Bay"  -was  launched  and  the  following  year  the 
first  church  built.  The  tide  of  Puritan  immigration  set  in  so  rapidly 
that  Blaxton  could  not  stand  the  pressure  and  in  1634  he  declared, 
"I  came  from  England  because  I  did  not  like  the  lord  bishops,  but  I 
cannot  join  with  you  because  I  would  not  be  under  the  lords  brethren." 
He  moved  southward  into  the  wilderness  and  became  the  first  settler 
of  Rhode  Island  (p  445). 

Boston  bore  a  large  part  in  the  Pequot  War  of  1637  and  hundreds  of 
captives  were  brought  here,  many  of  them  to  be  sold  in  the  West 
Indies  (p  34).  In  "New  England  Prospects"  we  are  told  the  inhabi- 
tants are  rich  and  well  stored  with  cattle  of  all  sorts.  "Philadelphia 
was  a  forest,  and  New  York  was  an  insignificant  village,  long  after  its 
rival  (Boston)  had  become  a  great  commercial  town." 


454  BOSTON 

In  1663  Josselyn  writes  of  Boston:  "The  buildings  are  handsome, 
joining  one  to  the  other  as  in  London,  with  many  large  streets,  most  of 
them  paved  with  pebble-stones.  In  the  high  street  towards  the 
Common  there  are  faire  houses,  some  of  stone,"  a  rapid  development 
since  1630  when  Shawmut  was  described  as  "a  hideous  wilderness, 
possessed  by  barbarous  Indians,  very  cold,  sickly,  rocky,  barren,  unfit 
for  culture,  and  like  to  keep  the  people  miserable." 

Edward  Ward,  an  English  traveler,  in  1699  wrote:  "On  the  south- 
west side  of  Massachusetts  Bay  is  Boston  whose  name  is  taken  from 
a  town  in  Lincolnshire  and  is  the  metropolis  of  all  New  England.  The 
houses  in  some  parts  joyn  as  in  London.  The  buildings  like  their 
women  being  handsome  and  their  streets  like  the  hearts  of  the  male 
inhabitants  being  paved  with  pebbles." 

During  the  seventeenth  century  the  Colony  was  ruled  by  a  religious 
hierarchy  whose  usurpation  of  autocratic  power  was  curbed  after  the 
restoration  of  Charles  II  in  1660.  Antinomian  dissensions,  Quaker 
and  Baptist  persecutions  were  the  events  of  the  time.  Four  witches 
were  executed  in  Boston  in  1648,  1651,  1656,  1688.  In  1684  the  Mas- 
sachusetts Charter  was  annulled  but  the  Royal  Governors  who  were 
sent  to  rule  met  with  continued  opposition. 

The  first  American  newspaper,  "The  Boston  News  Letter,"  was 
established  in  1704  (p  35).  In  1710  a  massive  wall  of  brick  and  stone 
with  two  strong  gates  and  cannon  on  its  parapets  was  built  across  the 
Neck  near  the  present  Dover  St.  Along  the  waterfront  was  a  wall 
2 200  ft  long,  15  ft  high  and  20  ft  thick  which  with  the  forts  on  Castle 
Island  and  Fort  Hill  protected  the  city  against  the  Dutch  and  French. 

The  city  throve  commercially  and  increased  in  wealth  and  the 
British  official  class  lent  a  luster  to  society,  but  of  the  twoscore  most 
prominent  families  in  its  first  century,  hardly  one  retained  a  similar 
place  during  the  eighteenth  century.  An  ungracious  Englishman 
wrote  in  160*9  of  Boston's  townspeople  that  he  found  "Money  Their 
God  and  Large  Possessions  the  Only  Heaven  they  Covet."  Another, 
Daniel  Neal,  in  1720  wrote  of  Boston:  "A  gentleman  from  London 
would  almost  think  himself  at  home  at  Boston  when  he  observes  the 
number  of  people,  their  houses,  their  furniture,  their  tables,  their 
dress  and  conversation,  which  is  perhaps  as  splendid  and  showy  as 
that  of  the  most  considerate  tradesmen  in  London." 

Just  before  the  Revolution,  Boston,  the  most  considerable  town  of 
North  America,  had  a  population  of  20,000  and  a  flourishing  trade 
with  the  West  Indies  and  Africa.  The  parliamentary  restrictions  on 
trade  were  bitterly  opposed  and  generally  evaded.  The  Stamp  Act 
of  1765  met  with  determined  opposition  and  Royal  troops  were  first 
quartered  in  the  town  in  1768.  The  Boston  Port  Bill  closed  the  port 
in  June,  1774.  When  Lord  Howe  was  forced  to  evacuate  the  city 
May  17,  1776,  3000  loyalists  went  with  him,  the  wealth  and  aristoc- 
racy of  the  town.  Few  of  these  ever  returned,  but  the  influx  from 
Salem  and  Newburyport  of  nouveaux  riches  of  the  time  who  had 
waxed  fat  on  war  munitions  and  privateering,  supplied  the  later 
Boston  aristocracy.  From  this  emigration,  and  the  destruction  of 
her  commerce  during  the  siege,  Boston  has  never  recovered  her  pre- 
eminence. In  1790  Boston  had  a  population  of  18,000,  New  \ork 
33,000,  and  Philadelphia  28,000. 

The  original  Boston,  the  older  part  of  the  town,  was  built 
on  a  hilly,  pear-shaped  peninsula  which  jutted  out  into  the 
harbor  with  the  broad  estuaries  of  the  Charles  river  and  Fort 
Point  Channel  on  either  side,  and  was  connected  with  the  main- 
land oi  what  is  now  Roxbury  and  Brooivlme  by  a  narrow  neck. 


R.   20.     BOSTON  AND  CAMBRIDGE  455 

The  original  area  of  783  acres  has  been  expanded  to  over  1800 
acres  by  the  filling  in  of  the  tidal  flats  during  the  nineteenth 
century.  The  topographic  changes  and  the  expense  entailed 
have  been  greater  than  in  any  other  American  city.  Whole 
hills  of  gravel,  great  quarries  of  granite,  and  forests  of  piling 
have  been  used  to  reclaim  new  areas  from  salt  water.  The 
greater  part  of  the  modern  city  is  built  on  made  land  where 
once  was  salt  water.  The  Post  Office  is  on  the  original  shore 
line.  Dock  Square  is  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and  Park  Square, 
where  the  British  troops  embarked  the  night  before  Lexington, 
is  now  half  a  mile  from  the  water. 

Boston  is  famed  for  the  narrow  and  irregular  streets  of  the 
older  parts  of  the  city.  The  blame  has  always  been  put  upon 
the  colonial  cows,  probably  with  injustice.  More  than 
$27,000,000  has  been  expended  since  1810  in  widening  and 
straightening  streets  without  too  obvious  result.  Successive 
fires  in  1760  and  1872  have  afforded  opportunity  to  straighten 
and  broaden  the  maze  of  crooked  lanes  which  the  heedlessness 
of  the  early  settlers  bequeathed  to  posterity.  More  money 
has  probably  been  spent  in  Boston  in  correcting  their  initial 
errors  than  in  all  the  other  cities  of  the  United  States  together. 
As  late  as  1866  Atlantic  Avenue  was  created  and  Washington 
Street  largely  remade.  The  Subway,  built  in  1895  to  relieve 
the  street  congestion,  was  the  first  of  its  kind  now  so  general 
in  all  metropolitan  cities.  The  extension  under  the  harbor  to 
East  Boston  was  the  first  all-cement  tunnel  in  the  world.  The 
subway  system  has  since  been  greatly  extended,  branches 
running  from  Park  Street  to  Cambridge  and  Dorchester,  and 
a  new  subway  built  under  Washington  Street. 

Tremont  Street,  Washington  Street,  and  Columbus  Avenue 
are  the  great  thoroughfares  running  through  the  South  End. 
Washington  Street,  not  only  the  chief  north  and  south  thor- 
oughfare but  also  the  great  shopping  street,  is  probably  the 
most  congested  street  in  America. 

Beacon  Street,  Commonwealth  Avenue,  Boylston  Street, 
and  Huntington  Avenue  are  the  great  avenues  traversing  the 
Back  Bay.  The  more  select  residential  portion  between 
Boylston  Street  and  the  river  is  laid  out  on  a  perfectly  rec- 
tangular plan.  The  cross  streets  from  Arlington  St.  bordering 
the  Public  Garden  to  Massachusetts  Ave.  follow  an  alpha- 
betical arrangement  in  the  sequence  of  initials  and  are  all 
named  after  British  statesmen, — Berkeley,  Clarendon,  Dart- 
mouth, Exeter,  Fairfield,  Gloucester,  Hereford.  Massa- 
chusetts Avenue,  the  great  cross-town  thoroughfare,  runs  from 
Everett  Square  across  the  South  End  and  the  Back  Bay,  and 
is  prolonged  through  Cambridge  on  to  Lexington. 


456  BOSTON 

Huntington  Avenue,  which  runs  south  from  Copley  Square, 
is  one  of  the  city's  most  interesting  thoroughfares.  In  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Massachusetts  Charitable  Mechanics 
Building  used  for  shows  and  exhibitions,  the  street  is  largely 
given  over  to  osteopaths  and  healers  of  one  kind  or  another. 
The  great  dome  of  the  Christian  Science  Temple  appears  across 
an  open  green  space'  on  the  right.  At  the  corner  of  Massa- 
chusetts Ave.  is  Symphony  Hall  and  Horticultural  Hall.  Just 
beyond  is  the  New  England  Conservatory  of  Music.  This  is 
the  heart  of  the  city's  Latin  Quarter  and  the  street  here  has 
been  referred  to  as  the  'University  of  Huntington  Avenue.' 
The  Fine  Arts  Museum,  a  classic  building,  contains  notable 
collections  unsurpassed  in  many  departments  particularly  in 
Oriental  art.  An  excellent  Guide  is  published  by  the  Museum. 
Further  on  is  the  great  marble  group  of  the  Harvard  Medical 
School  and  its  associated  institutions  (p  475). 

Copley  Square,  centrally  located  in  the  modern  city,  is 
Boston's  nearest  approach  to  a  civic  center.  It  is  the  tourist 
center  of  the  city,  the  point  from  which  mileages  in  this  book 
are  calculated,  and  the  starting  point  of  numerous  'rubber- 
neck wagons'  that  tour  the  city.  Around  it  are  grouped  many 
of  the  more  interesting  modern  buildings  and  from  it  radiate 
the  chief  avenues  leading  to  other  points  of  interest.  It  bears 
the  name  of  the  famous  American  portrait  painter,  John 
Singleton  Copley,  who  bestowed  distinction  upon  many  Boston 
families  by  painting  treasured  portraits  of  their  ancestors. 

The  Square  is  cut  into  triangular  grass  plots  by  the  trolley 
lines  which  drive  diagonally  across  it.  Innumerable  plans 
for  developing  a  central  square  have  been  devised  and  dis- 
cussed during  the  last  quarter  of  a  century  but  none  adopted. 
The  Public  Library  dominates  Copley  Square,  not  in  altitude 
but  in  dignity.  Its  facade,  225  feet  long,  extends  across  the 
west  side  of  the  Square  and  covers  with  its  platform  and  court 
an  acre  and  a  half.  Erected  in  1888-95,  at  a  cost  of  $2,500,000 
exclusive  of  the  site,  it  was  the  earliest  building  of  its  kind  in 
America.  The  design  by  McKim,  Mead  &  White  is  an  adap- 
tation of  the  Bibliotheque  St.  Genevieve  in  Paris,  in  the  style 
of  the  Italian  Renaissance. 

The  bronze  doors  are  by  Daniel  C.  French.  In  the  vestibule 
is  a  vigorous  bronze  of  Sir  Harry  Vane  (p  460)  by  Frederick 
MacMonnies.  The  staircase  of  Siena  marble  is  flanked  by 
lions  of  the  same  material  by  Louis  Saint-Gaudens.  The 
panels  above  the  stairway  illustrating  science  and  literature 
are  by  the  great  French  mural  painter,  Puvis  de  Chavannes. 
In  the  Delivery  Room  a  frieze  by  Edwin  A.  Abbey  illustrates 
the  legend  of  "The  Holy  Grail."  In  the  upper  corridor  on  the 


R.   20.     BOSTON  AND  CAMBRIDGE  457 

Special  Libraries  Floor  are  the  mural  decorations  and  reliefs 
of  John  S.  Sargent  supposed  to  represent  the  history  or  triumph 
of  religion.  Cards  supplied  by  the  library  explain  all  the 
paintings  minutely. 

Trinity  Church,  the  masterpiece  of  H.  H.  Richardson,  is  in 
the  heavy  Romanesque  style  of  Auvergne.  It  was  completed 
in  1877  at  a  cost  of  $800,000.  The  west  towers  and  the  elabo- 
rate carving  of  the  porch  were  added  in  1896.  The  interior  has 
decorations  by  La  Farge,  and  stained  glass  windows  by  La 
Farge,  Burne-Jones,  William  Morris,  and  Henry  Holiday. 
The  original  church  was  founded  in  1728.  The  Gothic  struc- 
ture which  stood  on  Summer  and  Hawley  Sts.  was  destroyed 
in  the  fire  of  1872,  and  it  was  under  the  leadership  of  Phillips 
Brooks,  rector  from  1869  to  1891  when  he  became  bishop,  that 
the  new  edifice  was  erected.  It  stands  as  a  monument  to  this 
great  churchman.  On  the  west  side  on  Boylston  St.,  under  a 
stone  canopy,  is  the  bronze  statue  of  the  preacher  with  the 
consecrating  Christ  in  the  background.  The  design  was 
Saint-Gaudens'  but  the  master  hand  was  stricken  before  it  was 
completed  and  as  finished  by  his  pupils  it  does  not  yield  entire 
satisfaction.  Bela  Pratt  has  recently  modeled  another 
Phillips  Brooks,  presenting  him  from  a  wholly  different  point 
of  view.  The  rectory,  Phillips  Brooks'  house,  is  a  short  distance 
off  at  the  corner  of  Clarendon  and  Newbury  Sts. 

The  New  Old  South  Church  across  Boylston  St.  from  the 
Public  Library,  with  its  lofty  leaning  tower,  is  generally  de- 
scribed as  in  the  North  Italian  Gothic  style.  Saracenic  in- 
fluence is  strongly  evident  in  its  architecture  as  in  many  other 
buildings  in  this  neighborhood.  It  was  built  in  1874-75  of 
local  Roxbury  pudding-stone  whose  cleavage  faces  show  beau- 
tiful gradations  of  color.  The  tower  rises  248  feet  and  leans 
some  eighteen  inches  out  of  perpendicular.  It  is  the  successor 
of  the  original  Old  South  Church  on  Washington  and  Milk 
Sts.,  now.  consecrated  to  historical  uses. 

The  Public  Garden,  twenty-four  acres  in  extent,  was  half 
a  century  ago  a  tidal  flat.  The  style  of  landscape  gardening 
here  is  that  of  the  time  of  its  establishment  but  in  spring  and 
summer  there  is  a  fine  display  of  flowers. 

In  the  old  Central  Burying  Ground  on  the  Boylston  Street 
side  of  the  Common  are  buried  Gilbert  Stuart,  the  painter,  and 
the  restaurateur,  Julien,  creator  of  the  soup  that  still  bears 
his  name.  West  of  this  graveyard  is  all  that  remains  o.f  the 
"trayning  field"  used  for  that  purpose  ever  since  the  Common 
was  laid  out,  where  today  the  high  school  cadets  and  the  An- 
cient and  Honorable  Artillery  Company  hold  their  dress  pa- 
rades. On  the  hill  where  the  schoolboys  coasted  in  the  winter 


458  BOSTON 

of  '75,  in  spite  of  the  prohibition  of  General  Gage,  is  the  Army 
and  Navy  Monument,  where  the  British  artillery  was  stationed 
during  the  siege.  At  the  eastern  foot  of  the  hill  stood  the 
great  elm  near  which  executions  were  carried  out  even  as  late 
as  1812,  and  where  the  famous  duel  occurred  between  Henry 
Phillips  and  Thomas  Wood  bridge  in  which  the  latter  was  killed. 
Boston  Common,  an  area  of  about  fifty  acres,  has  been  public  prop- 
erty since  William  Blaxton  in  1634  sold  it  to  the  community.  It  was 
once  larger  until  Park  Street  was  put  through  one  end  of  it  cutting  off 
that  portion  of  it  in  which  is  situated  the  Old  Granary  Burying  Ground. 
On  the  Common  assembled  the  forces  that  captured  Louisburg  and 
the  troops  that  conquered  Quebec. 

The  State  House  occupies  an  unrivaled  position  on  Beacon 
Hill  overlooking  the  Common.  The  central  portion  (1795) 
was  designed  by  Charles  Bulfinch.  Portions  of  it  are  open 
to  the  public.  Doric  Hall  leads  by  a  grand  staircase  to 
Memorial  Hall  where  are  interesting  paintings  and  trophies 
of  the  Civil  War.  Opposite  the  State  House  is  the  beautiful 
Shaw  Monument  by  Saint-Gaudens,  unveiled  in  1897,  in  honor 
of  the  Colonel  of  the  first  colored  regiment  in  the  Civil  War. 

Park  Street  Church  (1809),  established  for  the  defense  of 
Puritan  orthodoxy  against  the  inroads  of  the  early  Unitarian- 
ism,  has  long  been  known  as  'Brimstone  Corner'  from  the  grim 
earnestness  of  its  primitive  Calvinism. 

Designed  by  Peter  Banner,  an  Englishman,  its  spire  as  well  as  its 
symmetry  in  general  give  it  pre-eminence  among  Boston  churches 
of  the  type.  "America"  was  first  sung  here  in  public,  and  the  sails 
of  the  U.S.  frigate  "Constitution"  were  made  in  the  granary  on  this 
site.  Opposite  the  church  is  the  site  of  the  old  Boston  Music  Hall,  the 
first  home  of  the  Boston  Symphony  Orchestra,  now  replaced  by  a 
music  hall  and  'movie'  palace. 

The  Granary  Burying  Ground  is  the  resting  place  of  John 
Hancock,  Samuel  Adams,  James  Otis,  Robert  Treat  Paine, 
Chief  Justice  Samuel  Sewall  (p  174),  Peter  Faneuil  (p  70), 
Paul  Revere,  and  Franklin's  parents. 

King's  Chapel,  on  the  corner  of  Tremont  and  School  Sts., 
was  the  first  Church  of  England  edifice  on  the  Bay.  Governor 
Andros  seized  the  land  for  it,  as  no  Puritan  would  sell  a  lot  for 
such  a  purpose. 

It  is  the  second  building,  dating  from  1754,  and  is  constructed  of 
Quincy  granite,  taken  from  the  surface  long  before  quarrying  was 
started.  The  first  building,  of  wood,  stood  within  the  stone  walls 
while  they  were  building.  In  style  both  within  and  without  it  is  closely 
patterned  upon  the  London  churches  of  the  eighteenth  century;  its 
architect  was  Peter  Harrison.  In  1787  James  Freeman  was  ordained 
as  rector  and  introduced  Unitarian  doctrines  for  the  first  time  in 
America.  Though  it  has  remained  Unitarian  ever  since,  it  still  pre- 
serves on  its  walls  the  Trinitarian  creed.  The  communion  service 
was  presented  by  the  English  monarch,  whose  insignia  appear  on 
the  organ. 

King's  Chapel  Burying  Ground,  the  oldest  in  the  city,  contains  the 


R.    20.     BOSTON  AND   CAMBRIDGE  459 

remains  of  Governor  Winthrop  (1640)  and  several  of  the  family,  and 
John  Winslow  and  his  wife  Mary  Chilton,  both  "Mayflower"  Pilgrims. 

On  the  right  of  Scollay  Square  is  Court  St.,  with  the  City  Hall 
Annex.  This  occupies  the  site  of  the  colonial  jail,  where  the 
pirate  Captain  Kidd  was  imprisoned  in  1699.  On  the  corner 
of  Court  St.  and  Franklin  Ave.,  a  tablet  marks  the  site  of  the 
printing  office  of  Edes  and  Gill,  where  a  patriots'  organization 
met,  and  here  some  of  its  members  donned  their  warpaint 
before  the  Boston  Tea-Party .  James  Franklin  had  a  press  here, 
where  his  young  brother  Benjamin  learned  the  trade. 

On  Washington  St.  at  the  corner  of  Milk  St.  is  the  Old  South 
Meeting  House,  built  in  1729  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  one  in 
which  Benjamin  Franklin  was  baptized.  During  the  Revo- 
lution the  British  used  it  as  a  riding  school.  It  is  row  a 
museum  of  Colonial  and  Revolutionary  relics.  Opposite,  well 
back  from  Washington  St.  stood  the  Province  House,  the  offi- 
cial residence  of  the  royal  governors  celebrated  in  Hawthorne's 
"Legends  of  Province  House."  A  portion  of  its  wall  may 
still  be  seen  on  Province  Court. 

The  Old  State  House  stands  on  the  site  of  the  original 
Marketstead  at  the  head  of  State  St.  Here  from  the  time  of 
the  earliest  settlement  stood  the  stocks,  the  whipping  post, 
and  the  pillory.  In  the  Revolutionary  period  the  stocks  stood 
near  the  northeast  corner  of  the  Old  State  House  and  the  whip- 
ping post  lingered  hard  by  until  the  nineteenth  century.  The 
Old  State  House  dates  from  1748  but  the  outer  walls  are  those 
of  its  predecessor,  the  second  Town  House  built  in  1712.  It 
occupies  the  identical  site  of  the  first  Town  House  of  1657. 
The  present  building  has  been  used  as  Town  House,  City  Hall, 
Court  House,  State  House,  and  for  general  business  purposes 
until  its  restoration  in  1882.  Tablets  on  the  walls  of  the  build- 
ing state  that  Governor  Andros'  Tyranny  was  overthrown  1689; 
Captain  Kidd  was  here  examined  before  imprisonment  1699; 
and  "Here  the  child  Independence  was  born"  and  from  the 
balcony  were  proclaimed  the  repeal  of  the  Stamp  Act,  1766, 
and  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  1776.  The  halls  within 
have  the  same  walls  and  ceilings  that  they  had  in  1748.  On 
the  second  floor  looking  down  State  St.  was  the  Council  Cham- 
ber. The  building  is  now  used  as  an  historical  museum  by  the 
Bostonian  Society  and  the  Marine  Society,  open  daily. 

Opposite  the  State  House  at  the  corner  of  Washington  St., 
where  a  new  building  is  now  being  erected,  was  the  house  and 
garden  of  Captain  Robert  Keayne,  the  first  commander  of  the 
Ancient  and  Honorable  Artillery  Company,  founded  in  1638. 
The  site  of  the  Boston  Massacre  of  1770  is  marked  by  a  radiat- 
ing arrangement  of  granite  blocks  on  the  pavement  diagonally 
in  front  of  the  Merchants  National  Bank. 


460  BOSTON 

The  Exchange  Building,  53  State  St.,  covers  the  site  of  Governor 
Winthrop's  first  house,  and  also,  at  the  corner  of  Kilby  St.,  which  until 
the  'Great  Fire  of  1760'  was  known  as  Mackerel  Lane,  was  the  Bunch 
of  Grapes  Tavern  dating  from  1711,  which  succeeded  a  Colonial  Ordi- 
nary of  1640.  The  Bunch  of  Grapes  was  "noted  for  the  best  punch 
house  in  Boston,  resorted  to  by  most  of  the  gentn  merchts  and  masters 
vessels."  At  this  tavern  in  1786  under  the  inspiration  of  General 
Rufus  Putnam  (p  447)  was  organized  the  Ohio  Company. 

To  the  left  is  Faneuil  Hall  Square,  in  the  market  region  of 
the  city.  The  original  Faneuil  Hall,  built  in  1742  on  made 
land,  the  gift  of  Peter  Faneuil  (p  70),  and  designed  by  John 
Smibert  (p  48),  was  burned  in  1762.  The  present  building, 
enlarged  in  1805,  is  largely  the  work  of  Bulfinch.  It  is  known 
as  the  'Cradle  of  Liberty.'  The  tablet  states:  "Here  were 
held/  Both  before  and  after/  The  Revolution/  Many  patriotic 
meetings/  Which  kept  alive  the  fires  of  freedom/  Among  the 
people/  And  stirred  them  to  great  deeds/  From  which  fact/ 
This  hall  became  known/  as/  THE  CRADLE/  OF/  LIBERTY." 
The  ground  floor  is  occupied  by  markets.  The  great  hall 
above  is  still  used  for  meetings  and  contains  a  number  of 
historical  paintings.  Above  the  hall  is  the  armory  of  the 
Ancient  and  Honorable  Artillery  Company  with  many  inter- 
esting relics  of  Colonial  and  Revolutionary  times. 

Dock  Square  is  to  the  west  of  Faneuil  Hall  and  as  its  name 
implies  marks  the  original  waterfront.  The  Old  Hancock 
Tavern  on  Corn  Court  to  the  south  of  the  Square'  dated  from 
1733;  here  lodged  Talleyrand  when  exiled  from  France  %  in 
1795  and  two  years  later  Louis  Philippe.  On  its  site  has  been 
built  an  annex  to  a  modern  office  building.  In  the  adjacent 
Adams  Square  is  a  statue  of  Samuel  Adams  by  Anne  Whitney, 
a  replica  of  which  is  in  the  Capitol  at  Washington. 

From  Dock  Square,  Union  Street  leads  north.  The  tablet 
on  No.  8 1  proclaims  it  the  site  of  the  Green  Dragon  Tavern 
which  stood  here  from  1680  to  about  1820.  It  was  the  chief 
meeting  place  of  the  "North  End  Corcus,"  a  patriotic  club  from 
which  our  name  'caucus'  is  derived.  Here  the  Tea-Party 
originated  and  here  was  organized  the  first  Lodge  of  Free 
Masons  in  1752,  of  which  Joseph  Warren  and  Paul  Revere 
were  officers.  Near  the  corner  of  Union  and  Hanover  Sts. 
was  the  "Blue  Ball,"  the  boyhood  home  of  Benjamin  Franklin 
where  he  worked  at  candle-making.  On  Marshall's  Lane,  off 
Union  St.,  a  low  brick  building  is  of  interest  as  the  site  of 
the  shop  in  which  Benjamin  Thompson  (pp  603,  6oq)  was  an 
apprentice.  On  Creek  Lane  to  the  right  of  Marshall's  Lane 
is  a  rough  stone  inscribed  "Boston  Stone,  1737."  This  is  a 
portion  of  a  paint  mill  brought  from  England  in  1 700. 

From  Hanover  St.,  Salem  Street  leads  to  the  right.  This 
was  the  Green  Lane  which  in  the  eighteenth  century  was  the 


R.    20.     BOSTON  AND   CAMBRIDGE  461 

abode  of  the  wealthy  aristocracy.  It  has  long  since  been  given 
over  to  the  Hebrews  and  the  'rubberneck  wagons'  still  point 
out  the  site  of  Solomon  Levi's  shop  of  the  famous  song.  At 
130  Prince  St.,  to  the  right  of  Salem  St.,  is  the  house  in  which 
Major  Pitcairn  died  of  his  wounds  (p  428).  Prince  Street 
leads  into  North  Square,  a  squalid  triangle  in  the  heart  of  the 
Italian  colony,  but  once  the  residence  of  the  aristocracy. 

The  house  of  Paul  Revere  was  the  home  of  the  patriot 
silversmith  and  bellfounder  from  1770  until  1800  when  waxing 
wealthy  he  moved  to  a  finer  house  on  Charter  St.  The  house, 
the  oldest  in  Boston,  was  built  soon  after  the  "Great  Fire  of 
1676"  on  the  site  of  the  parsonage  of  the  Old  North  Church 
where  Increase  Mather  lived.  (Adm.  25  cts.) 

At  the  head  of  the  Square 
stood  the  Old  North  Church 
where  the  Mathers  preached. 
During  the  siege  the  British 
troops  pulled  it  down  for  fire- 
wood. On  Garden  Court  St.  stood 
the  birthplace  and  mansion  of 
Governor  Hutchinson  (p  516), 
where  he  wrote  his  History 
of  Massachusetts  and  which  was 
sacked  by  the  Anti-Stamp  Act 
mob.  Here  also  was  the  Clark- 
Frankland  mansion  where  Sir 
Harry  Frankland  lived  with 
Agnes  Surriage  (p  636). 

Christ  Church,  built  in  1723, 
stands  near  the  north  end  of 
Salem  St.  The  tower  was  re- 
built in  1805  by  designs  from 
Bulfinch.  The  chimes  date  from 
1744.  The  tablet  on  the  tower  set  in  1878  bears  the  legend:  "The 
signal  lanterns  of  Paul  Revere  displayed  in  the  steeple  of  this  church 
April  18,  1775,  warned  the  country  of  the  march  of  the  British  troops 
to  Lexington  and  Concord."  One  may  climb 

"Up  the  wooden  stairs,  with  stealthy  tread, 
To  the  belfry  chamber  overhead." 

Following  Salem  St.  past  Hull  St.,  cut  through  John  Hull's 
pasture  in  1701  (p  174),  Charter  Street  leads  to  Copp's  Hill 
Burying  Ground  where  are  the  graves  or  tombs  of  the  Mathers, 
the  Hutchinsons,  and  other  early  worthies.  On  the  water- 
front is  North  End  Park  and  Beach,  a  playground  for  this 
crowded  tenement  region. 

This  excursion  may  be  continued  across  to  Charlestown, 
visiting  Bunker  Hill  Monument,  the  U.S.  Navy  Yard,  the 
site  of  John  Harvard's  house  and  the  birthplace  of  Samuel 
F.  B.  Morse,  inventor  of  the  telegraph,  the  son  of  the  Rev. 
Jedediah  Morse  (p  62). 


462  CAMBRIDGE 

CAMBRIDGE.  Pop  104,839  (1910),  108,822  (1915),  about  one  third 
foreign-born,  chiefly  Irish  and  Canadians.  Middlesex.  Co. 
Settled  1630.  Mfg.  foundry  products,  pianos,  sugar,  con- 
fectionery, ink,  soap,  glue,  furniture,  automobile  accessories, 
chemicals,  electric  apparatus;  printing  and  bookbinding. 
Value  of  Product  (1913),  $51,863,000;  Payroll,  $9,848,000. 

Cambridge  is  America's  greatest  educational  center,  the  seat 
of  Harvard  University,  Radcliffe  College,  and  now  also  of 
Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology.  It  has  also  four 
theological  schools,  three  of  which  are  connected  with  the 
University.  Cambridge  is  also  a  great  manufacturing  city 
with  diverse  industries.  The  industrial  section  is  confined 
chiefly  to  Cambridgeport  and  East  Cambridge  while  old  Cam- 
bridge, or  Cambridge  proper,  centers  about  the  University. 
The  completion  of  the  subway  from  Boston  has  stimulated  the 
development  of  new  residential  districts. 

The  inland  site  of  old  Cambridge  was  chosen  by  the  leaders  of  the 
Winthrop  Company  in  December,  1630,  because  "more  easily  defen- 
sible against  the  enemy  from  whom  the  most  was  to  be  feared, — not 
the  Indians,  but  the  warships  of  King  Charles"  [John  Fiske].  The 
advantages  of  the  Shawmut  peninsula  for  commerce  and  for  defense 
against  the  Indians  led  to  the  chief  settlement  at  Boston.  The  frame 
of  Winthrop's  house,  already  set  up,  was  removed  to  Boston,  but 
Dudley,  Bradstreet,  and  others  remained  at  Cambridge.  The  set- 
tlement was  known  as  Newe  Towne,  changed  to  Cambridge  in  1638 
after  its  selection  in  1637  as  the  seat  of  the  college.  In  1632  a  stockade 
with  a  ditch  was  built  around  a  thousand  acres  enclosing  approximately 
the  area  of  the  present  college  grounds  down  to  the  river.  It  was  the 
imposition  of  a  tax  to  meet  the  great  expense  of  this  "pallysadoe" 
that  "furnished  the  occasion  for  the  first  great  assertion  of  the  prin- 
ciples of  constitutional  law  and  free  government  in  New  England" 
I  Fiske].  The  Watertown  settlers  refused  to  pay  because  it  was  "taxa- 
tion without  representation."  The  Rev.  Thomas  Hooker  and  his 
congregation  from  Braintree,  England,  arrived  in  the  summer  of  1632 
but  four  years  later  became  restive  at  restrictions  of  the  suffrage  and, 
wanting  "more  room,"  migrated  to  the  Connecticut  (p  149). 

The  original  settlement  lay  between  the  present  Harvard  Square 
and  the  river,  the  'Gold  Coast'  and  clubdom  of  today.  The  present 
Dunster  Street  was  the  earliest  street.  Here  was  the  first  meeting 
house  and  the  house  of  Thomas  Dudley  (1631),  so  luxurious  that 
Winthrop  reproached  the  Deputy-governor  for  his  extravagance. 

The  territory  of  Cambridge  was  successively  enlarged  so  that  by 
1655  it  included  the  present  Brighton,  Newton,  Arlington,  Lexington, 
and  parts  of  Bedford  and  Billerica.  Until  the  Revolution  the  history 
of  Cambridge  was  the  history  of  Harvard  College.  Tory  gentry  and 
early  scholars  maintained  a  happy  social  life  and  made  the  town  a 
center  of  hospitality,  memories  or  which  still  linger  about  the  beautiful 
old  houses  oi  Tory  Row. 

During  the  siege  of  Boston,  Cambridge  was  the  headquarters  of  the 
army  of  investment  which  in  June,  1775,  numbered  16,000,  11,500  of 
which  were  from  Massachusetts.  The  left  wing  under  General  Ward, 
consisting  of  fifteen  Massachusetts  regiments  and  Gridley's  artillery, 
lay  here.  Later  General  Knox  brought  fifty-five  cannon  from  Crown 
Point  and  Ticonderoga,  and  the  New  York  troops  and  Morgan's 
Virginia  Riflemen  joined  the  camp.  In  November,  1777,  tne  great 
captive  army  of  Burgoyne  was  brought  to  Cambridge,  but  as  the  col- 


R.   20.     BOSTON  AND  CAMBRIDGE  463 

lege  refused  to  vacate  for  their  accommodation,  the  captive  troops  were 
encamped  on  Winter  and  Prospect  Hills  in  Somerville  until  1779  when 
they  were  sent  to  Charlottesville,  Va. 

Timothy  Dwight  gives  us  an  intimate  picture  of  Cambridge  and  its 
social  life  after  the  Revolution.  But  he  evidently  had  in  mind  par- 
ticularly the  class  from  which  are  recruited  the  present-day  'goodies,' 
the  good  wives  of  the  town  who  still  perform  the  important  function 
of  daily  making  the  beds  of  some  3000  students.  "Several  handsome 
villas,  and  other  handsome  houses,  are  seen  here,  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  decent  ones,  and  a  number,  not  small,  of  such  as  are  ordinary 
and  ill-repaired.  To  my  eye  this  last  appeared  as  if  inhabited  by 
men  accustomed  to  rely  on  the  university  for  their  subsistence;  men, 
whose  wives  are  the  chief  support  of  their  families  by  boarding,  wash- 
ing, mending,  ^and  other  offices  of  the  like  nature.  The  husband,  in 
the  mean  time,  is  a  kind  of  gentleman  at  large;  exercising  an 
authoritative  control  over  every  thing  within  the  purlieus  of  the 
house,  reading  newspapers  and  political  pamphlets,  deciding  on  the 
characters  and  measures  of  an  administration,  and  dictating  the  policy 
of  his  country.  In  ahnost  all  families  of  this  class,  the  mother  and  her 
daughters  lead  a  life  of  meritorious  diligence  and  economy;  while  the 
husband  is  merely  a  bond  of  union,  and  a  legal  protector  of  the  house- 
hold. Accordingly  he  is  paid  and  supported,  not  for  his  services,  but 
for  his  presence.  In  every  other  respect  he  is  merely 'nugae  canorae,' 
just  such  another  talking  tribe  as  a  parrot;  having  about  as  much 
understanding,  and  living  just  about  as  useful  a  life;  a  being,  creeping 
along  the  limits  of  animated  and  unanimated  existence;  and  serving, 
like  an  oyster,  as  a  middle  link  between  plants  and  animals." 

Cambridge  was  the  birthplace  in  1810  of  Margaret  Fuller,  Countess 
D'Ossoli,  the  brilliant  transcendentalist;  of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes, 
born  in  1809;  of  James  Russell  Lowell,  born  in  1819.  The  greater 
number  of  illustrious  personages  of  Cambridge  have  been  born  else- 
where and  drawn  to  it  by  the  college. 

From  Harvard  Bridge  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  Boston  sky- 
line dominated  by  the  State  House  and  the  Custom  House 
tower.  As  yet  comparatively  few  buildings  have  been  erected 
on  the  Cambridge  bank  along  the  new  boulevard.  The  most 
noticeable  is  the  group  of  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of 
Technology  now  affiliated  with  Harvard.  M.  I.  T.,  or  'Tech,' 
is  the  largest  technical  and  scientific  school  in  America  and  has 
a  worldwide  reputation.  Its  courses  are  said  to  require  more 
work  and  thought  than  any  others  in  the  New  World.  The 
enrollment  is  about  2000.  The  buildings  are  constructed  of 
concrete  faced  with  Indiana  limestone  in  a  simple  and  im- 
pressive style,  the  last  word  in  efficiency.  Downstream  is 
the  West  Boston  Bridge,  adorned  with  pepper  box  turrets  and 
carrying  an  elevated  track. 

Beyond  Central  Square  on  Massachusetts  Ave.  is  the  City 
Hall,  the  gift  of  Frederick  H.  Rindge,  who  also  gave  the  Public 
Library  and  the  Rindge  Technical  Training  School,  on  Broad- 
way and  Irving  St. 

In  Harvard  Square  is  the  subway  entrance,  beyond  which  is 
the  plain  yet  dignified  Lyceum  Hall,  now  occupied  by  the 
Harvard  Cooperative  Society,  familiarly  called  the  'Coop.' 


464  CAMBRIDGE 

The  First  Parish  Church  stands  opposite  the  College  Yard, 
where  until  within  fifty  years  Harvard's  Commencement  Exer- 
cises took  place.  Its  minister  is  that  genial  and  humorous 
essayist,  the  Rev.  Samuel  McChord  Crothers,  D.D.,  author  of 
"The  Gentle  Reader,"  and  other  characteristic  volumes. 

In  the  God's-Acre  belonging  to  Christ  Church,  between  the 
"Sentinel  and  Nun"  as  Holmes  called  the  churches,  are  buried 
early  presidents  of  Harvard,  and  other  worthies.  Here  also 
lie  Daniel  Gookin,  the  companion  of  Eliot  the  Apostle  to  the 
Indians,  and  Stephen  Daye  the  printer,  who  set  up  a  press  in 
1640  and  brought  out  America's  first  publication,  "The  Bay 
Psalm-Book,"  and  John  Eliot's  Indian  Bible. 

Christ  Church  (1761)  was  designed  by  Peter  Harrison  on  the 
same  lines  as  King's  Chapel,  Boston.  During  the  Revolution, 
after  the  Tory  parishioners  had  departed,  it  was  used  as  a 
barracks  and  the  organ  pipes  were  melted  for  bullets.  George 
Washington  and  his  staff  attended  a  service  in  it  on  the  last 
Sunday  of  1775.  Under  the  floor  is  the  family  tomb  of  Colonel 
Henry  Vassall;  one  of  the  ten  coffins  preserved  there  contains 
the  remains  of  a  slave,  Darby,  who  lived  to  be  nearly  a  hundred. 
The  Christ  Church  chimes  are  unusually  pure  in  tone. 

The  Washington  elm,  now  an  unsightly  stump,  stands  in  the 
center  of  Garden  St.,  at  the  intersection  of  Mason.  Long- 
fellow's inscription  on  the  granite  tablet  reads:  "Under  this 
tree  Washington  first  took  command  of  the  American  army, 
July  3,  1775."  Learned  historians  and  sceptics  have  recently 
questioned  the  truth  of  this. 

Radcliffe  College,  formerly  known  as  the  Annex,  named  for 
Anne  Radcliffe,  Harvard's  first  woman  benefactor  (1643), 
occupies  the  old  Fay  house  and  a  series  of  new  buildings  rather 
closely  packed  together.  The  students  annually  number  about 
600  and  the  teaching  staff  and  government  is  derived  from 
Harvard.  The  Fay  house  was  earlier  the  residence  of  Edward 
Everett  and  it  was  while  Rev.  Samuel  Gilman  of  Charleston 
was  a  guest  of  his  brother-in-law,  Judge  Fay,  that  he  wrote 
"Fair  Harvard"  for  the  20oth  anniversary  of  the  college. 

Cambridge  Common  in  the  heart  of  'Cambridge  preferred' 
is  historic  ground.  In  early  days  the  Common  was  the  scene 
of  executions  and  of  the  great  revival  held  by  Whitefield. 
The  cannon  standing  at  the  corners  of  the  Soldiers'  Monument, 
on  the  Common,  were  a  part  of  the  booty  captured  at  Crown 
Point  in  1775  by  Captain  Ethan  Allen  and  brought  (p  340) 
by  General  Harry  Knox  to  use  in  the  siege  of  Boston.  Two 
are  British  cannon  and  the  other  was  probably  captured  at  the 
Battle  of  Quebec  in  1745.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  Common, 
near  Massachusetts  Ave.,  is  a  statue  of  John  Bridge,  the  Puri- 


R.   20.     BOSTON  AND   CAMBRIDGE  465 

tan,  by  Thomas  and  Marshall  Gould.  Across  Massachusetts 
Ave.,  a  tablet  marks  the  birthplace  of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes. 

Brattle  Street,  once  the  'Old  Road'  to  Watertown,  has  for 
two  centuries  been  the  street  of  Cambridge.  The  stately 
colonial  houses  bordering  it,  the  residences  of  loyalists,  give 
it  the  name  of  'Tory  Row.'  Here  lived  the  Brattles,  the  Vas- 
salls,  Judge  Joseph  Lee,  Lieutenant-governor  Oliver  and 
Jonathan  Sewall,  who  constituted  an  exclusive  set  which  once 
a  year  from  a  sense  of  propriety  gave  a  social  entertainment  to 
the  faculty  of  the  college.  On  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolu- 
tion all  these  families  fled  to  England  and  their  estates  were 
confiscated.  'The  Cambridge  Social  Union'  occupies  the  old 
General  William  Brattle  house.  On  the  corner  of  Hawthorne 
St.  is  the  house,  built  early  in  the  eighteenth  century,  of  Colonel 
Henry  Vassall  who  married  a  daughter  of  Isaac  Royall  (p6oo). 

The  Longfellow-Craigie 
house  faces  an  open  space, 
Longfellow  Garden,  the  gift 
of  the  Longfellow  Memorial 
Association,  which  affords  an 
unobstructed  view  of  the 
Charles,  and  Soldier's  Field 
and  Longfellow  Park  on  the 
other  side,  the  latter  given 
by  the  poet  and  others  in  1870 
to  Harvard.  The  poet's  study  THE  LONGFELLOW  HOUSE,  1750 
was  the  front  room  to  the 

right,  behind  it  was  his  library.  The  poet's  children  have 
recently  deeded  the  house  to  the  city  of  Cambridge  as  a  per- 
petual memorial  to  their  father. 

The  house  was  built  about  1750  by  Colonel  John  Vassall.  Confis- 
cated by  the  Revolutionists  and  used  by  General  Washington  for  his 
headquarters,  it  eventually  came  into  the  possession  of  Dr.  Andrew 
Craigie,  apothecary-general  to  the  Continental  Army.  His  widow 
leased  rooms  and  here  lodged  Talleyrand  in  1795,  Edward  Everett, 
Jared  Sparks,  Joseph  Worcester,  and  Longfellow  lived  here  from  1837 
when  first  called  to  a  professorship  at  Harvard  until  his  death  in  1882. 
In  1843  his  father-in-law,  Nathan  Appleton,  purchased  it  for  him. 

Along  Brattle  St.  there  are  many  other  colonial  houses  dat- 
ing from  the  eighteenth  century  but  now  much  modernized. 
The  house  of  Ole  Bull,  the  Norwegian  violinist,  is  interesting 
because  built  with  its  back  to  the  street,  an  eccentricity  fol- 
lowed by  Mark  Twain  in  his  Hartford  house  (p  115). 

Elmwood,  the  birthplace  (1819)  and  home  of  James  Russell 
Lowell  where  he  died  in  1891,  is  a  large  three-story  mansion, 
surrounded  by  English  elms,  originally  the  country  seat  of 
Thomas  Oliver,  the  last  of  the  royal  lieutenant-governors. 


466  CAMBRIDGE 

The  poet's  study  was  on  the  third  floor.  Much  of  the  estate 
of  the  poet's  time  and  the  pine  grove  back  of  the  house  where 
he  walked  have  been  taken  for  the  Lowell  Memorial  Park, 
which  was  paid  for  by  popular  subscription. 

The  house  was  built  about  1760  by  Thomas  Oliver  who  later  became 
Royal  Lieutenant-governor.  His  resignation  being  forced  from  him 
by  the  men  of  Middlesex,  he  wrote:  "My  house  at  Cambridge  being 
surrounded  by  four  thousand  people,  in  compliance  with  their  com- 
mands I  sign  my  name,  Thomas  Oliver."  After  Bunker  Hill  it  was 
used  as  a  hospital.  In  1793  it  became  the  country  seat  of  Elbridge 
Gerry  (p  635)  through  the  time  of  his  service  as  Ambassador,  Gover- 
nor, and  Vice-president.  His  widow  in  1817  sold  the  estate  to  the 
Rev.  Charles  Lowell,  who  in  1861  bequeathed  it  to  his  son,  the  poet. 

Mt.  Auburn  Street  leads  past  the  Stillman  Infirmary,  the 
Cambridge  Hospital,  and  the  Home  for  Aged  People,  to  Mt. 
Auburn  Cemetery  which  occupies  a  beautifully  diversified  piece 
of  land  bordering  the  Charles.  It  contains  the  graves  of  so 
many  distinguished  New  England  men  and  women  of  the 
middle  nineteenth  century  that  it  has  long  been  a  place  of 
pilgrimage.  Here  are  buried  Longfellow,  Lowell,  Holmes, 
Agassiz,  Motley,  Phillips  Brooks,  Sumner,  Choate,  W.  E. 
Channing,  Margaret  Fuller,  Edwin  Booth,  Edward  Everett, 
and  Mary  Baker  Eddy. 

HARVARD  UNIVERSITY,  the  oldest  and  foremost  of  American 
institutions  of  learning,  comprises  many  divisions.  Of  these, 
Harvard  College,  Radcliffe  College,  the  Law  School,  the  Divin- 
ity School,  and  the  Graduate  School  of  Arts  and  Sciences  are 
in  Cambridge;  the  Medical  School  and  the  Dental  School  in 
Boston;  the  Bussey  Institution  and  the  Arnold  Arboretum  in 
Jamaica  Plain.  More  distant  are  the  Harvard  Forest  at  Peters- 
ham, the  Engineering  Camp  at  Squam  Lake,  and  the  astro- 
nomical station  near  Arequipa,  Peru.  The  total  administrative 
and  teaching  staff  is  about  800  and  the  annual  enrollment 
over  6000.  The  endowments,  almost  wholly  derived  from 
private  sources,  are  over  $23,000,000. 

Visitors  desiring  to  see  something  of  the  college  should 
provide  themselves  with  the  Official  Guide  Book  of  Harvard 
University  on  sale  at  the  book  stores  on  the  Square.  Student 
guides  appointed  by  the  Corporation  may  be  found  near 
University  Hall,  who  will  put  the  visitor  an  fait  as  to  the  man- 
ners and  customs  of  Harvard  and  what  is  best  worth  seeing. 

Harvard,  unlike  other  colleges,  has  no  campus.  The  quad- 
rangle enclosed  by  the  older  buildings  is  locally  called  'The 
Yard.'  Within  recent  years  it  has  been  wholly  enclosed  by 
an  ornamental  fence,  the  sections  and  the  gates  of  which  have 
been  erected  by  various  classes  of  the  last  thirty  years.  The 
yard  was  beautiful  with  the  shade  of  arching  elms  until  about 
five  years  ago  when  through  neglect  and  ignorance  they 


R.   20.     BOSTON  AND   CAMBRIDGE  467 

gradually  died  off.  After  various  attempts  at  planting  whip- 
stock  oaks  which  also  died,  public-spirited  alumni  from  the 
West  taught  the  University  that  large  trees  might  be  trans- 
planted, and  some  twenty  elms,  approximately  one  foot  in 
diameter,  were  set  out  in  the  spring  of  1916. 

The  Johnston  Gate,  on  the  west  side,  opening  from  the 
Square,  is  the  ceremonial  entrance  to  the  yard  through  which 
the  Governor  and  his  staff  enter  on  Commencement  Day.  It 
is  the  oldest  and  most  imposing,  erected  in  1890  from  designs 
by  Charles  F.  McKim.  Massachusetts  Hall,  to  the  right,  is  the 
oldest  of  the  college  buildings,  erected  in  1720  at  the  cost  of 
the  General  Court.  A  tablet  on  the  wall  records  the  names 
of  the  more  illustrious  alumni  who  lived  here  in  its  150  years 
as  a  dormitory.  During  the  Revolution  it  was  used  as  bar- 
racks for  the  Continental  soldiers.  It  is  now  a  lecture  hall. 

Harvard  Hall,  opposite 
(1764),  is  surmounted  by  the 
belfry  whence  the  hours  of 
rising,  prayers,  and  recitations 
are  rung.  A  tablet  on  its  face 
tells  its  story.  To  the  left  is 
Hollis  Hall  (1763),  commem- 
orating Thomas  Hollis  of 
London,  whose  family  for 
three  generations  were  Har- 
vard's benefactors.  Emerson 

and  Thoreau  both  lived  here.  MASSACHUSETTS  HALL 

Stoughton  Hall,  next  beyond, 

so  like  Hollis  that  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish  between  the 
two,  was  built  by  the  college  in  1804  in  part  from  the  pro- 
ceeds of  a  lottery.  Holden  Chapel,  which  stands  back  and 
behind  these  two,  dates  from  1744  and  since  its  abandonment 
for  religious  purposes  has  been  a  general  utility  building. 
Behind  Stoughton  is  the  Phillips  Brooks  House,  the  head- 
quarters of  university  religious  work. 

Hoi  worthy  Hall  (1812),  at  the  end  of  the  yard,  was  also 
erected  in  part  from  lottery  funds.  This,  with  the  neighboring 
dormitories,  is  the  center  of  senior  class  life.  The  rigors  of 
life  in  these  old  buildings  are  not  so  great  as  they  used  to  be 
since  the  introduction  of  electric  light,  steam  heat,  and  shower 
baths,  but  to  change  from  the  luxurious  dormitories  of  the 
'Gold  Coast'  to  the  more  democratic  and  primitive  existence 
is  doubtless  beneficial  to  the  budding  alumnus. 

In  the  center  of  the  yard  on  the  further  side  stands  Univer- 
sity Hall  (1815),  a  white  granite  building  of  pleasing  and 
dignified  proportions,  designed  by  Bulfinch.  The  other  dormi- 


468  CAMBRIDGE 

lories  about  the  yard  are  sad  examples  of  the  perverted  archi- 
tectural taste  of  the  later  nineteenth  century.  Matthews  Hall 
stands  on  the  site  of  the  Indian  College  (p  473),  and  Gray's  Hall 
stands  on  the  site  of  the  first  college  building.  Wadsworth 
House  (1726),  facing  Massachusetts  Ave.,  the  only  wooden 
building  in  the  yard,  was  formerly  the  presidential  residence. 

Beyond  University  Hall  is  what  has  come  to  be  known  as 
the  'New  Yard,'  dominated  by  the  Widener  Library's  huge 
bulk,  a  memorial  to  Harry  Elkins  Widener,  a  Harvard  gradu- 
ate who  was  lost  in  the  "Titanic"  disaster,  April  14,  1912. 

The  old  yellow  house  on  the  corner,  long  the  home  of 
Professor  Palmer,  and  before  that  of  Andrew  G.  Peabody,  was 
originally  the  College  Observatory.  Opposite  is  the  Harvard 
Union,  a  club  open  to  all  members  of  the  University,  the  gift 
of  Henry  Lee  Higginson  and  the  late  Henry  Warren. 

The  Colonial  Club  adjacent  is  the  remodeled  house  of  Henry 
James,  father  of  the  eminent  novelist  and  of  the  psychologist. 

On  the  side  of  the  'New  Yard'  facing  Quincy  St.  are  suc- 
cessively Emerson  Hall,  the  headquarters  of  the  Philosophy 
Department,  Sever  Hall,  a  recitation  building  designed  by 
H.  H.  Richardson,  and  Robinson  Hall,  the  home  of  the  Archi- 
tectural Department. 

The  Fogg  Art  Museum  contains  admirable  working  collec- 
tions and  the  notable  Gray  collection  of  engravings,  some 
excellent  early  Italian  paintings,  and  antique  sculpture. 

The  '  Old  Gym '  in  the  little  delta  is  at  present  occupied  by  the 
collection  of  the  Germanic  Museum  soon  to  be  removed  to 
the  new  building  on  Kirkland  St.  It  was  founded  in  1902  and 
contains  important  donations  from  the  German  Emperor.  On 
the  southeast  corner  of  Quincy  St.  and  Broadway  is  the  house 
built  for  Louis  Agassiz  by  the  college,  where  he  and  his  wife 
maintained  a  remarkable  school  for  young  women  (1855-63). 

Memorial  Hall,  a  huge  structure  of  brick  with  a  pseudo- 
gothic  tower,  stands  in  a  delta  once  the  playing  field  of  the 
college.  It  was  erected  in  1870-75  in  memory  of  the  Harvard 
men  who  fell  in  the  Civil  War.  The  lofty  transept  has  some 
fine  stained  glass,  and  marble  tablets  bear  the  names  of  grad- 
uates and  students  who  lost  their  lives  in  the  Rebellion. 

On  one  side  is  Sanders  Theatre  used  for  concerts,  lectures, 
and,  until  1916,  when  they  were  transferred  to  the  Stadium, 
for  Commencement 'exercises.  On  the  opposite  side  is  the 
great  hall  now  used  for  a  Commons.  Its  walls  are  hung  with 
portraits  of  college  worthies  and  others,  including  examples  of 
the  work  of  Copley,  Stuart,  and  other  early  American  painters. 
In  the  delta  at  the  end  of  Memorial  Hall  is  the  bronze  ideal 
statue  of  John  Harvard  by  Daniel  C.  French,  which  has  more 


R.   20.     BOSTON  AND  CAMBRIDGE  469 

than  once  been  treated  with  coats  of  crimson  paint  by  prank- 
some  students. 

To  the  right  on  Oxford  St.,  about  Holmes  Field,  formerly 
the  Varsity  baseball  diamond,  are  grouped  the  buildings  of 
the  Law  School,  Austin  Hall,  the  original  building  by  H.  H. 
Richardson,  the  Music  building,  the  Jefferson  Laboratory,  and 
other  buildings  of  Physics,  Mining,  and  Engineering. 

The  University  Museum,  a  huge  brick  pile,  built  about 
three  sides  of  a  court,  includes  the  Zoological,  Botanical, 
Mineralogical,  and  Geological  collections  and  departments. 

The  Peabody  Museum  of  American  Archaeology  and  Ethnol- 
ogy, founded  by  George  Peabody,  the  London  banker-philan- 
thropist (p  514),  occupies  the  southern  wing  of  the  great 
structure.  The  Museum  is  a  great  monument  to  the  Agassizes, 
father  and  son.  Founded  by  Louis  Agassiz  in  1859,  its  devel- 
opment and  fulfilment  is  largely  due  to  his  son  Alexander  who 
himself  gave  more  than  a  million  dollars.  The  exhibition 
rooms  open  to  the  public  are  chiefly  on  the  second  and  third 
floors,  the  other  floors  being  devoted  to  teaching,  research, 
and  storage.  The  collections  are  open  to  the  public. 

In  the  Botanical  Museum  the  Ware  Collection  of  glass  flowers 
prepared  by  the  brothers  Leopold  and  Rudolph  Blaschka, 
of  Hosterwitz,  Germany,  is  especially  notable,  so  accurately 
modeled  and  tinted  as  to  be  deceptive. 

Harvard  has  developed  topographically  and  architecturally 
in  a  most  haphazard  way.  During  the  administration  of 
President  Eliot,  the  extension  was  chiefly  to  the  north  toward 
Jarvis  Field  and  Norton's  Woods.  Of  late  years  the  tide  has 
turned  toward  the  Charles  river.  The  two  oldest  clubs,  the 
Institute  of  1770,  at  the  corner  of  Dunster  and  Mt.  Auburn  Sts., 
popularly  called  the  'Dickey,'  known  for  the  spectacular 
stunts  of  its  initiates  at  football  games,  and  the  Hasty  Pud- 
ding Club  (1795),  Holyoke  St.,  known  to  the  outer  world  for 
its  theatrical  productions,  have  always  been  on  the  side  below 
Massachusetts  Ave.  With  the  building  of  Claverly  Hall  in 
1895  in  the  midst  of  what  was  the  slummy  home  of  the  Cam- 
bridge "mucker,"  a  new  element  of  luxury  was  introduced  into 
the  student  life.  Since  the  region  of  Mt.  Auburn  St.  has  blos- 
somed forth  with  luxurious  dormitories,  it  has  been  known  as 
the  'Gold  Coast.'  The  segregation  of  the  Freshmen  on  the 
Charles  and  of  the  Seniors  in  the  upper  end  of  the  yard  in  recent 
years  has  somewhat  dimmed  the  luster  of  the  'Gold  Coast.' 

In  the  worn  and  tawdry  region  south  of  the  yard  are  the 
clubs  which  are  the  aspiration  of  the  undergraduate.  There 
are  practically  no  Greek  letter  fraternities  at  Harvard  and 
club  life  plays  a  part  quite  different  from  that  at  other  colleges. 


470 


CAMBRIDGE 


The  Hasty  Pudding, — the  premier  club, — Holyoke  St.,  selects 
its  members  for  all-round  prominence  in  college  activities 
without  reference  to  hereditary  distinction,  but  dramatic  or 
musical  ability  is  fairly  sure  of  recognition. 

Literary  mentality  is  recognized  by  the  Signet  (1870),  46 
Dunster  St.,  and  the  Stylus  (1902),  41  Winthrop  St.     Socially 


1  Agassis  House 

2  President  Lowell 

3  Apthorp  House 

4 'Lampoon  Building 

5  Claverly  (1893) 

6  Randolph  (1897) 

7  Russell  (igoo) 

8  Westmorly  (1898) 

9  Crimson  Bldg. 


10  A.  D.  Club 
it   Beck  Hall 

12  Hasty  Pudding 

13  Sumner  Statue 

14  Dana  Chambeis 

15  Dunster  Hall 

16  Pi  Eta 

17  Car  house 


18  University  Press 

19  Chestnut  tree  site 

20  Browne  &  Nichols 

School 

21  Fay  House 

22  Gymnasium 

23  Agassiz  House 

24  Library 

25  Sargent  School 


R.  20.     BOSTON  AND   CAMBRIDGE  47 J 

in  the  first  class,  and  recognizing  heredity  as  a  factor,  are  the 
A.  D.,  corner  of  Massachusetts  Ave.  and  Plympton  St.,  the 
Porcellian  on  Massachusetts  Ave.  opposite  the  gate  with 
the  boar's  head.  The  Fly  (1836),  2  Holyoke  Place,  is  one  of  the 
few  at  which  members  may  live.  The  Delphic  (1848),  9 
Linden  St.,  is  better  known  as  the  'Gas  House.' 

Among  the  more  recent  clubs  for  upper  classmen  of  social 
prominence  are  the  Fox,  44  Boylston  St.,  the  Spec,  15  Holyoke 
St.,  and  the  Owl  (1896),  30  Holyoke  St.  The  Iroquois,  the 
Kalumet,  the  Sphinx,  and  the  Phoenix  are  feeders  for  the  upper 
class  clubs.  The  Pi  Eta  (1866),  i  Winthrop  Sq.,  and  the 
D.  U.,  Harvard  St.,  are  clubs  known  for  their  theatricals. 

In  this  region  of  clubdom  on  Plympton  St.  is  the  new  building 
of  the  Harvard  "Crimson,"  the  college  daily,  which  'Lampy' 
calls  'The  Crime.'  Occupying  the  delta  at  the  intersection 
of  Mt.  Auburn  and  Bow  Sts.  is  the  sanctum  of  the  "Lampoon," 
a  bizarre  bit  of  architecture. 

Something  of  an  earlier  Cambridge  still  survives  in  this  region.  At 
the  corner  of  Dunster  and  Mt.  Auburn  Sts.  a  tablet  marks  the  site  of 
the  first  meeting  house  (1632),  and  at  the  corner  of  South  and  Dunster 
Sts.  is  the  site  of  the  house  of  Thomas  Dudley  (1630),  marked  by  a 
tablet.  On  Bow  St.  the  regicides  Goffe  and  Whalley  were  hidden 
(1660)  until  they  fled  to  New  Haven  (p  92).  On  Linden  St.,  under 
the  shadow  of  Randolph  Hall,  is  Apthorp  House,  a  fine  old  colonial 
mansion  of  1761  called  in  derision  the  'Bishop's  Palace'  because  of  the 
aspirations  of  a  former  rector  of  Christ  Church  who  lived  here. 

From  Harvard  Square  Boylston  Street  leads  to  the  Charles 
river,  crossed  by  the  Anderson  Bridge,  presented  to  Cambridge 
by  the  Hon.  Larz  Anderson  to  commemorate  the  services  in 
the  Civil  War  of  his  father,  General  Nicholas  Longworth 
Anderson.  At  the  left  are  the  new  Freshman  Dormitories, 
luxuriously  appointed  brick  and  stone  structures  in  which  enter- 
ing classes  are  now  obliged  to  segregate  themselves  for  a  pre- 
liminary psychological  treatment.  To  the  left  of  the  bridge 
is  the  Weld  Boat  Club  and  upstream  the  Newell  Boat  Club, 
used  by  the  Varsity  and  Freshman  crews. 

Beyond  the  river  is  Soldier's  Field,  presented  by  Henry  Lee 
Higginson  in  memory  of  Civil  War  comrades  whose  names 
are  recorded  on  the  monument  before  the  Locker  building. 
Here  the  football  and  baseball  games  and  other  athletic  con- 
tests are  decided.  In  the  Stadium,  which  seats  27,000,  the 
exercises  of  Class  Day  and  Commencement  take  place. 

It  was  under  the  inspiration  of  Sir  Harry  Vane,  then  Governor  at 
the  age  of  twenty-four,  "young  in  years  yet  in  sage  counsel  old,"  that 
the  General  Court  in  October,  1836,  "dreading  to  leave  an  illiterate 
ministry  to  the  churches  when  our  present  ministers  shall  lie  in  the 
dust,"  took  the  first  steps  toward  the  establishment  of  a  school  which 
later  became  Harvard.  Many  towns  desired  the  college,  and  a  site 
near  Salem  (p  637)  was  seriously  considered,  but  in  November,  1637, 
"the  colledge  is  ordered  to  be  at  New  Towne."  It  was  agreed  to  give 


472  CAMBRIDGE 

£400,  doubling  the  yearly  tax  rate.  There  is  no  record  that  this  money 
was  ever  paid,  but  this  is  said  to  be  the  first  case  "in  which  the  people 
by  their  representatives  ever  gave  their  own  money  to  found  a  place 
of  education." 

The  first  "schoole"  was  built  by  Nathaniel  Eaton  in  1637  near  the 
site  of  the  present  Wadsworth  House.  It  stood  on  an  acre  of  ground 
enclosed  with  palings  in  which  was  an  orchard  of  apple  trees. 

In  1638  the  young  pastor  of  Charlestown,  John  Harvard,  a  graduate 
of  Emmanuel  College,  Cambridge,  died,  childless,  of  consumption. 
He  had  a  respectable  fortune  for  those  days  accumulated  by  his  father 
and  two  successive  stepfathers,  respectively  a  butcher,  a  cooper,  and 
a  grocer.  He  left  to  the  infant  college  half  his  estate  of  £1600  and  his 
library  of  320  volumes.  The  college  records  show  the  receipt  of  only 
£3Q5,  3  sh.,  and  it  was  charged  at  the  time  that  "  Mr.  Eaton,  professing 
valiently  yet  falsely  and  most  deceitfully  the  fear  of  God,  did  lavish 
out  a  great  part  of  it."  This  Eaton  had  some  unpleasantness  with  his 
assistant,  Nathaniel  Briscoe,  whom  he  'beat  up,'  though  the  latter 
defended  himself  with  a  knife;  but  when  the  matter  was  brought 
before  the  magistrates,  the  head  master  was  "convicted  of  being  pas- 
sionate, quarrelsome,  negligent  and  cruel"  and  was  dismissed. 

Of  the  first  Commencement  of  Harvard  College  in  1642  Governor 
Winthrop  records  in  his  journal:  "Nine  bachellors  commenced  at 
Cambridge:  they  were  young  men  of  good  hope  and  performed  their 
acts  so  as  gave  good  proof  of  their  proficiency  in  the  tongues  and 
Arts."  In  1643  a  seal  was  obtained  and  two  instructors,  Sir  Bulkelcy 
and  Sir  Downing,  were  engaged  at  a  salary  of  four  pounds  a  year  to 
help  the  President  read  to  the  Junior  pupils  as  he  should  see  fit.  The 
same  Sir  Bulkeley  contributed  two  acres  of  land  nearly  adjoining,  on 
which  now  stands  the  Widener  Library. 

In  1650  the  President  and  Fellows  of  Harvard  College  were  incor- 
porated, the  charter  declaring  the  purpose  to  be  "the  advancement  of 
all  good  literature,  arts  and  sciences"  and  "the  education  of  the  Eng- 
lish and  Indian  youth  of  this  country  in  Knowledge  and  Godliness." 

The  first  brick  building  was  "the  Indian  College"  built,  about  where 
Matthews  Hall  now  stands,  with  funds  received  from  England,  de- 
signed to  accommodate  twenty  aborigines.  The  college  became  the 
pride  of  New  England,  and  endowments  and  gifts  poured  in.  That  it 
accomplished  its  purpose  is  evidenced  by  the  fact  that  in  1696  out  of 
121  clergymen  in  the  eleven  counties  nearest  Cambridge  104  were 
graduates  of  Harvard  as  were  the  ten  clergymen  who,  four  years  later, 
initiated  that  local  theological  school  which  later  became  Yale  (p  103). 

Up  to  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century,  Harvard,  like  other 
American  colleges,  was  little  more  than  what  we  would  today  call  an 
academy.  A  more  liberal  spirit  in  scholarship  and  academic  freedom 
was  introduced  as  the  result  gf  GejLrnaji  influe.Qcg.  This  began  with 
George  Ticknor  and  Edward  Everett,  who  had  been  trained  in  Ger- 
many, and  was  continued  by  a  number  of  eminent  scholars  who  later 
became  professors,  and  by  the  great  number  of  later  faculty  trained  in 
German  universities. 

During  the  forty  years  1860-1909  of  the  administration  of  President 
Charles  W.  Eliot,  the  college  grew  to  be  a  university  in  the  highest 
sense,  with  national  patronage  and  appeal.  The  elective  system  was 
inaugurated,  the  graduate  schools  developed,  and  the  number  of 
students,  instructors,  and  buildings  and  the  amount  of  endowments 
were  all  easily  multiplied  by  ten. 

Professor  Scott  Nearing's  study  of  distinguished  college  graduates  since 
1890  finds  Harvard  leading  with  155,  Yale  83,  Columbia  52,  Michigan 
44,  Cornell  36,  Pennsylvania  36,  Princeton  34,  Stanford  28.  From  this 
it  seems  that  Harvard  has  graduated  since  1890  nearly  as  many  distin- 
guished men  as  Cornell,  Columbia,  Stanford,  and  Michigan  combined. 


METROPOLITAN  BOSTON. 

Greater  Boston  is  the  fourth  metropolitan  center  of  the 
country,  with  a  population  of  1,520,470  (1910)  in  an  area  of 
414  square  miles. 

Within  the  sparsely  populated  outlying  fringe  of  residential 
and  agricultural  towns — Saugus,  Wakefield,  Stoneham,  Lex- 
ington, Lincoln,  Weston,  Wellesley,  Needham,  Dover,  West- 
wood,  Dedham,  Canton,  Milton,  Braintree,  Weymouth, 
Hingham,  Cohasset,  and  Hull — is  the  more  densely  populated 
ring  of  suburbs,  so  merging  with  the  central  population  that 
their  boundaries  are  indistinguishable.  This  includes  the 
cities  of  Cambridge,  Chelsea,  Everett,  Maiden,  Medford,  Mel- 
rose,  Newton,  Quincy,  Revere,  Somerville,  Waltham,  Woburn, 
and  the  towns  of  Arlington,  Belmont,  Brookline,  Watertown, 
and  Winchester. 

As  a  center  of  population  it  is  the  second  in  the  country. 
The  tributary  region  within  a  radius  of  fifty  miles  as  given  by 
the  census  of  1910  had  a  population  of  3,470,587.  Within  the 
same  radius  New  York  had  7,321,485;  Philadelphia,  2,943,848; 
Chicago,  2,843,057;  St.  Louis,  1,228,184. 

One  twenty-fifth  of  the  population  of  the  United  States 
dwells  within  fifty  miles  of  Boston,  more  people  than  the  com- 
bined population  of  Montana,  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  Colorado, 
Delaware,  Idaho,  North  Dakota,  Utah,  and  Wyoming. 

This  great  concentrated  population,  equipped  with  the 
intensive  transportation  facilities  of  a  huge  metropolis,  is  what 
invariably  astonishes  the  stranger  who,  with  census  figures  in 
mind,  expects  to  find  Boston  a  city  of  the  St.  Louis,  Cleveland, 
or  Baltimore  type,  rather  than  one  comparing  with  Chicago 
and  Philadelphia. 

Metropolitan  Boston  extends  somewhat  beyond  the  "Boston 
Basin,"  the  physiographic  entity  bounded  by  the  rim  of  hills 
extending  from  High  Rock  in  Lynn  around  through  the  Mid- 
dlesex Fells,  Arlington  Heights,  and  the  Blue  Hills,  to  the 
rocky  shores  of  Hingham  and  Cohasset,  a  region  of  uncommon 
diversity  and  landscape  charm. 

The  four  Metropolitan  Districts  are  the  two  Sewerage  Dis- 
tricts, North  Metropolitan  and  South  Metropolitan;  the 
Metropolitan  Parks  District,  organized  in  1893,  and  the  Metro- 
politan Water  District,  organized  in  1895.  These  were  con- 
stituted in  the  above  order,  and  were  successively  designed  to 
meet  needs  beyond  the  scope  of  individual  localities. 

Following  an  Australian  precedent,  the  Commonwealth  issued 
bonds  and  advanced  the  necessary  funds.  Every  five  years  the  fixed 
charges  are  apportioned  to  the  various  municipalities  in  ratio  to  their 
respective  population  and  wealth.  Administrative  functions  are 
vested  in  two  commissions,  the  Sewerage  and  Water  Board  having 

'473) 


474  BOSTON 

been  consolidated.  These  districts  are  not  co-terminous.  Cambridge, 
Lynn,  and  Winchester  have  their  own  water  systems.  But  the  Parks 
District  includes  all  the  other  districts  except  the  water-district  towns 
of  Lexington  and  Marblehead.  The  commissioners  are  appointed  by 
the  Governor  and  Council. 

The  Metropolitan  Parks  and  Water  Systems  were  first  suggested 
by  Sylvester  Baxter,  who  in  1891  published  a  comprehensive  study 
of  "  Greater  Boston."  This  so  impressed  Charles  Eliot,  the  landscape 
architect,  that  he  joined  in  organizing  a  movement  which  met  with 
immediate  response  and  the  almost  unanimous  enactment  of  the 
desired  legislation.  As  a  result,  Boston  early  had  the  most  logically 
and  artistically  developed  park  system  of  any  of  the  world's  great 
cities  and  this  has  not  only  contributed  to  the  health  and  enjoyment 
of  the  populace  and  enhancement  of  real  estate,  but  has  redounded 
to  the  world-wide  credit  of  the  municipality. 

The  Metropolitan  Park  System  was  designed  by  Charles  Eliot 
and  the  brothers  Olmsted.  It  cost  something  like  $20,000,000, 
including  $4,500,000  expended  on  the  Charles  River  Basin. 
It  consists  of  an  inner  and  outer  ring,  more  or  less  complete, 
of  parks  and  reservations,  with  connecting  boulevards,  and 
comprises  10,427  acres.  It  complements  the  local  parks  of  the 
towns  and  cities  about,  such  as  Lynn  Woods  (2000  acres),  which 
bring  the  total  area  of  pleasure  grounds  within  the  Metropolitan 
District  to  over  17,000  acres,  including  the  great  municipal  sys- 
tem of  Boston,  designed  by  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  the  elder. 

The  wide  distribution  of  park  areas  affords  a  great  diver- 
sity of  landscape  features  and  shows  remarkable  balance.  The 
wilderness  reservations  of  the  Blue  Hills  on  the  south  balance 
the  Fells  and  Lynn  Woods  on  the  north.  The  shore  reserva- 
tions of  Nantasket  and  Revere  similarly  balance  these. 

The  river-valley  improvements  have  been  utilized  for  beau- 
tiful radiating  parkway  routes.  Along  the  course  of  Muddy 
River  have  been  developed  the  Fens;  the  Mystic  and  the 
Neponset  tidal  streams  have  been  dredged;  the  Charles  River 
Basin,  formerly  a  tidal  estuary,  is  now  a  fresh  water  lake. 

SHORT  MOTOR  TRIPS  ABOUT  BOSTON. 

The  country  of  eastern  Massachusetts  with  its  diversified 
natural  scenic  attractions,  its  beautiful  residential  towns,  its 
well-kept  countryside,  magnificent  gentlemen's  estates  and 
excellent  road  surfaces  offer  every  inducement  for  short  motor- 
ing trips.  Throughout  eastern  Massachusetts  one  may  safely 
explore  the  country  without  fear  of  impassable  roads, — in  fact, 
with  a  map  and  a  quick  eye  may  be  sure  of  delightful  trips 
and  good  roads  in  almost  any  direction. 

The  following  tours  (Routes  21-29),  which,  by  reference  to 
the  map  and  the  cross  references  in  the  text,  may  be  modified 
at  will,  are  planned  to  reveal  some  of  the  more  delightful 
regions  of  eastern  Massachusetts  which  might  otherwise  escape 


R.   21.      ROUND    ABOUT    METROPOLITAN    BOSTON  475 

notice.  Either  day  or  half-day  excursions  from  Boston  may 
readily  be  made  up  by  combining  the  radiating  routes  with 
cross-country  routes.  For  example:  Route  30  along  the 
south  shore  to  Plymouth  may  be  followed  from  Plymouth 
over  Route  16  to  Middleboro  with  an  excursion  southward  into 
Lakeville,  returning  through  Middleboro  via  Route  31.  Simi- 
larly another  excursion  may  be  made  up  by  taking  30  to 
Sagamore,  thence  by  Route  17  through  Marion  and  New  Bed- 
ford and  returning  by  other  radiating  routes.  Other  excursions 
may  thus  be  made  up  by  combining  the  north  shore  Route  36 
with  38,  37,  29,  35,  or  28. 


R.  21.     ROUND  ABOUT  METROPOLITAN  BOSTON. 

74.5  m. 

Via  MILTON,  the  BLUE  HILLS,  DEDHAM,  CHARLES  RIVER, 
WELLESLEY,  NEWTON,  WALTHAM,  ARLINGTON,  MIDDLE- 
SEX FELLS,  and  LYNN. 

From  Copley  Square,  Boston,  via  Dartmouth  St.,  and  Com- 
monwealth Ave.,  at  Charlesgate  turn  left  at  the  Collins  Monu- 
ment over  R.R.  into  the  Fenway.  To  the  east  is  a  notable 
group  of  buildings,  successively: — the  Forsyth  Dental  Infirm- 
ary, the  Fine  Arts  Museum,  Fenway  Court,  the  town  residence 
of  Mrs.  Jack  Gardner, — a  museum  of  art  treasures, — Simmons 
College,  and  the  marble  buildings  of  the  Harvard  Medical 
School.  Grouped  near  the  Harvard  Medical  School  are  also 
the  Harvard  Dental  School,  the  Angell  Memorial  Hospital  for 
Animals,  the  Peter  Bent  Brigham  Hospital,  and  the  Children's 
Hospital,  all  of  monumental  architecture.  Architecturally 
significant  is  also  the  handsome  educational  group  of  public 
school  buildings  on  the  Tremont  entrance  of  the  Fens,  near 
Fenway  Court, — the  Boston  Normal,  with  its  "model  school," 
and  the  Girls'  Latin  School.  These,  together  with  the  fine 
continuing  facades  that  include  the  buildings  of  the  Massa- 
chusetts Historical  Society  and  the  Boston  Medical  Society 
at  the  Fenway  and  the  Boylston  Entrance,  show  that  the  archi- 
tectural opportunities  of  the  Fens  and  the  Riverway  have 
been  utilized  to  uncommon  advantage. 

On  the  hill  to  the  left  the  octagon  dome  and  twin  spires  of 
the  Mission  Church  are  prominent.  The  Fenway  is  continued 
into  the  Riverway,  which  skirts  a  clear  stream,  formerly  the 
tidal  creek  known  as  Muddy  River,  which  gave  its  name  to 
Brookline,— Muddy  River  Hamlet.  On  the  left  of  the  River- 
way  is  Miss  Wheelock's  Kindergarten  Training  School,  marked 
by  a  terra-cotta  lunette  over  the  doorway  representing  Froebel 


476  BOSTON— MILTON 

and  a  group  of  children.  Still  further  on,  also  on  the  left,  are 
the  Psychopathic  Hospital  and  the  House  of  the  Good  Shepherd. 
Crossing  Huntington  Ave.  (3.0),  the  route  follows  Jamaica- 
way  past  Leverett  Pond  and  Jamaica  Pond  (4.0).  On  the 
north  side  of  Jamaica  Pond  is  Pine  Bank,  long  the  home  of 
Commodore  Perkins,  of  Civil  War  fame.  The  commodious 
brick  mansion  is  now  occupied  by  the  Children's  Museum. 
On  the  terrace  is  a  beautiful  fountain  with  the  graceful  bronze 
figure  of  a  child,  by  Anne  Whitney.  On  the  south  side  of  the 
Pond  was  the  home  of  Francis  Parkman,  the  historian.  The 
site  of  his  garden,  where  he  cultivated  his  roses  and  irises,  is 
marked  by  a  memorial  monument  by  Daniel  C.  French. 
Jamaicaway  leads  into  the  Arborway,  which  skirts  on  the  right 
the  Arnold  Arboretum  (4.5).  This  is  the  greatest  institution 
of  its  kind  in  the  world:  a  "tree  museum"  devoted  to  the 
cultivation  of  every  species  of  tree  and  shrub  that  can  nourish 
in  this  climate.  It  was  established  by  a  bequest  of  James 
Arnold,  who  left  $100,000  to  Harvard  University  for  the  pur- 
pose. Near  the  main  entrance  is  the  Arboretum  Museum, 
which  has  an  invaluable  herbarium,  a  duplicate  of  the  Jesup 
collection  of  American  woods  made  by  Professor  Charles 
Sargent,  director  of  the  Arboretum,  for  the  American  Museum 
of  Natural  History  in  New  York. 

By  agreement  between  the  university  and  the  city  of  Boston  the 
Arboretum  was  made  available  as  a  public  park.  The  City  of  Boston 
took  over  the  Arboretum  and  leased  it  back  to  the  university  for  999 
years,  retaining  the  maintenance  of  roads  and  paths  and  police  super- 
vision. The  plantations  are  arranged  in  botanical  sequence,  but  with 
so  little  formality  that  the  growth  seems  spontaneous.  Hemlock  Hill 
at  the  South  St.  entrance,  beyond  the  Arboretum  buildings,  is  the  great 
landscape  feature.  On  its  northern  slope  is  a  growth  of  hemlock,  the 
only  piece  of  primeval  forest  within  the  city  limits.  Weld  Hill,  to 
the  summit  of  which  a  driveway  leads,  commands  a  fine  view  toward 
the  Blue  Hills.  This  hill  was  selected  by  Washington  as  a  point  to 
fall  back  upon  in  case  he  were  obliged  to  raise  the  siege  of  Boston. 
Just  to  the  west  outside  the  park,  at  the  corner  of  Centre  and  Allan- 
dale  Sts.,  stood  the  old  Peacock  Tavern,  a  favorite  resort  of  Washing- 
ton during  the  siege,  where  John  Hancock,  when  Governor  of  the 
Commonwealth,' used  to  live  in  the  summer  time. 

The  slope  of  Weld  Hill  is  bordered  with  seventy  varieties  of  lilac 
which  in  the  season  of  bloom  presents  a  notable  spectacle.  Near  the 
main  drive  on  the  slope  is  a  group  of  ancient  oaks,  decrepit  and  dying 
when  the  Arboretum  was  taken  in  hand,  but  now  flourishing  youthfully, 
the  result  of  skillful  pollarding  and  treatment. 

Professor  Charles  Sprague  Sargent,  the  Director  of  the  Arboretum, 
played  a  large  part  in  the  development  of  Boston's  Park  System  and 
in  the  awakening  of  the  interest  of  the  country  to  forestry.  The  new 
species  introduced  by  the  Arboretum  from  foreign  lands,  together  with 
the  hybridization  thus  made  possible,  have  contributed  to  the  horti- 
cultural and  floricultural  resources  of  the  country. 

The  Arborway  leads  to  Forest  Hills  (5.5),  where  the  route 
passes  under  the  R.R.  and  elevated  viaducts  and  crosses  Wash- 


R.    21.     ROUND    ABOUT   METROPOLITAN    BOSTON  477 

ington  St..  following  the  boulevard  to  the  entrance  of  Franklin 
Park  (this  road  not  open  to  automobiles). 

FRANKLIN  PARK  (537  acres)  was  named  in  honor  of  Benja- 
min Franklin.  It  was  laid  out  on  the  plans  of  Frederick  Law 
Olmsted.  The  "ante-park"  is  devoted  to  popular  recreative 
features  and  the  Country  Park  to  rural  scenery,  ideally  devel- 
oped. The  landscape  treatment  is  governed  by  the  develop- 
ment of  two  noble  views,  one  toward  the  Blue  Hills,  the  other 
toward  Bellevue  Hill  in  West  Roxbury.  The  Park  contains 
six  miles  of  drives,  thirteen  of  walks.  Glen  Road  (open  to 
automobiles)  carries  traffic  across  the  Park  from  Jamaica 
Plain.  To  the  south,  the  predominating  feature  is  an  undulat- 
ing meadow,  the  golf  links,  surrounded  by  a  circuit  drive. 
Here  is  Schoolmaster's  Hill,  named  in  honor  of  Ralph  Waldo 
Emerson  and  his  brother.  A  tablet  on  a  conglomerate  boulder 
bears  the  inscription: 

"Near  this  rock,  A.D.  1823-25,  was  the  home  of  Schoolmaster  Ralph 
Waldo  Emerson.  Here  some  of  his  earlier  poems  were  written;  among 
them  that  from  which  the  following  lines  are  taken: 

'"Oh,  when  I  am  safe  in  my  sylvan  home, 
I  tread  on  the  pride  of  Greece  and  Rome, 
And  when  I  am  stretched  beneath  the  pines 
Where  the  evening  star  so  holy  shines, 
I  laugh  at  the  lore  and  the  pride  of  man, 
At  the  sophist  schools  and  the  learned  clan, — 
For  what  are  they  all,  in  their  high  conceit, 
When  man  in  the  bush  with  God  may  meet?'  " 

Other  portions  of  the  Park  are  the  Playstead  with  its  terrace  over- 
look, and  the  long  formal  promenade,  the  Greeting.  Near  the  Greet- 
ing is  the  Zoo  with  an  exceptionally  fine  aviary.  Mr.  Olmsted  selected 
many  quaint  old  English  names  for  the  localities  in  the  park.  Scar- 
borough Hill  commands  a  notable  view.  At  the  shady  knoll  called 
"Resting  Place,"  the  first  military  company  formed  in  the  colonies 
for  resistance  to  British  aggression  rested  while  on  its  march  home 
from  the  battles  of  Concord  and  Lexington. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  park  the  route  turns  right  and  left 
into  Morton  St.  which  it  follows,  passing  between  the  park  on 
the  left  and  Forest  Hills  Cemetery,  one  of  the  largest  in  New 
England,  on  the  right.  Crossing  Canterbury  St.,  it  traverses 
the  meadows  near  the  Boston  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  now  a 
state  institution,  and  crosses  Blue  Hill  Ave.  (7.8),  along  which 
pass  Routes  an,  31,  and  32.  Morton  St.  continues  to 
9.0  MILTON  LOWER  MILLS  (R.  30,  p  515). 

Note.  From  Milton  Lower  Mills  a  detour  of  ten  miles  addi- 
tional via  Adams  St.  to  Neponset,  there  crossing  the  river, 
leads  lo  the  Quincy  Shore  Reservation  at  North  Quincy  and 
thence  via  the  recently  constructed  Furnace  Brook  Parkway 
to  Quincy,  thence  via  Adams  St.  to  the  older  section  of  the 
Parkway  and  so  into  the  Blue  Hills,  joining  the  main  route  on 
Hillside  St.  (p  557). 


478  MILTON— WALTHAM 

From  Milton  Lower  Mills  the  main  route  follows  Route  31 
(P  557))  along  Randolph  Ave.,  turning  right  on  Hillside  St. 
(12.0),  entering  the  Blue  Hills.  To  the  right  is  an  extensive 
view  of  Brush  Hill  (p  570)  and  beyond. 

THE  BLUE  HILLS  are  the  highest  land  near  the  coast  from  Maine 
to  Mexico,  from  Agamenticus  near  York,  Me.,  to  the  Rio  Grande.  Geo- 
logically speaking,  they  are  the  worn-down  stumps  or  roots  of  ancient 
mountains  forming  the  southern  boundary  of  the  so-called  Boston 
Basin.  These  eighteen  or  twenty  rounded  summits  are  the  most 
prominent  landscape  features  of  the  southern  coast.  From  them  the 
Massadchuset  tribe  along  the  Bay  derived  its  name,  signifying  "near 
the  great  hills,"  which  was  transformed  into  Massachusetts  by  the 
English  and  applied  to  the  Bay  and  the  Colony.  The  name  of  Blue 
Hills  was  given  the  range  by  the  early  settlers. 

A  tract  of  about  four  thousand  acres  was  taken  over  by  the 
State  in  180,4  an(i  is  now  a  public  park  and  forest  reserve,  containing 
deer  and  pheasants,  under  the  name  of  the  Blue  Hills  Reservation. 
The  principal  drives  have  recently  been  opened  to  automobiles.  Foot- 
paths and  trails  lead  all  through  the  Reservation  and  the  natural 
beauties  of  the  spot  have  been  carefully  conserved.  Great  Blue  Hill 
(635  ft)  commands  a  magnificent  view,  embracing  a  circuit  of  more 
than  150  miles.  The  ascent  is  made  from  Hillside  St.,  via  the  Wild- 
cat Notch  trail,  or  better  from  Canton  Ave.  (R.  32,  p  572). 

The  Rotch  Meteorological  Observatory  on  its  summit,  a  familiar 
object  for  miles  around,  was  erected  in  1884  by  the  late  Professor  A. 
Lawrence  Rotch  of  Milton,  who  bequeathed  funds  for  its  continuance. 
It  is  now  connected  with  Harvard  University.  The  upper  atmosphere 
has  been  investigated  by  means  of  captive  kites  carrying  instruments 
to  an  altitude  of  from  one  to  two  miles. 

After  passing  the  Reservation  Headquarters  and  Hoosick- 
whisick  or  Houghton's  Pond,  where  Ralph  Houghton  settled 
in  1690  on  an  old  Indian  planting  ground,  the  route  skirts 
Marigold  Valley  at  the  foot  of  Hancock  Hill,  named  in  the 
days  when  Governor  John  Hancock  ordered  its  wood  to  be  cut 
and  given  to  the  shivering  poor  of  Boston.  Further  on  is  the 
Forbes  Stock  Farm  where  Nancy  Hanks  and  many  other  thor- 
oughbreds have  spent  a  comfortable  old  age.  Rounding  the 
steep  slope  of  the  great  Blue  Hill  the  route  enters  Canton  Ave. 
(16.0),  turning  left.  A  mile  beyond,  at  the  outskirts  of  Ponka- 
P°g  (P  573)  it  turns  right  again  on  Green  Lodge  St.  The 
route  crosses  the  meadows  of  the  Neponset  river  beneath  a 
mile-long  arch  of  luxuriant  willows.  To  the  left  is  Purgatory 
swamp,  a  mecca  for  botanists  today,  but  once  "dismal  places 
and  resorts  of  wild  beasts."  Beyond,  the  route  crosses  R.R. 
near  the  hamlet  of  Endicott  and  enters  East  St.,  passing  the 
old  Fairbanks  House  (p  201). 

23.0     DEDHAM  (p  198). 

From  Dedham  keep  straight  along  High  St.  to  NEEDHAM 
(27.0;  R.  24,  p  496).  The  route  continues  straight  ahead  on 
Great  Plain  Ave.,  following  trolley  to 


R.    21.     ROUND    ABOUT    METROPOLITAN    BOSTON  479 

30.5     WELLESLEY  (R.  24,  p  484}. 

Turn  right  with  trolley  and  follow  Central  St.,  bearing  left 
into  Washington  St.  to  WELLESLEY  HILLS  (32.0),  and 

33.0    NEWTON  LOWER   FALLS. 

This  is  an  industrial  village  at  the  falls  of  the  Charles. 
Crossing  the  river,  turn  square  left  along  Grove  St.  to  AUBUEN- 
DALE  (35.0).  To  the  left  is  Riverside,  a  popular  canoeing 
center.  Bear  slightly  left  along  Auburn  St.,  across  R.R., 
then  right  on  Freeman  St.,  crossing  Commonwealth  Ave.  To 
the  left  is  Norumbega  Park,  an  amusement  resort  on  the  river- 
bank  opposite  Norumbega  Tower  (p  148).  The  route  follows 
Lexington  St.,  with  trolley,  again  crossing  the  Charles. 

37.0  WALTHAM.  Pop  (1910)  27,834,  (1915)  30,047.  Middlesex 
Co.  Inc.  1738.  Indian  name  Quinrobin.  Mfg.  watches, 
watch  and  clock  accessories,  automobiles,  carriages,  bicycles, 
canoes,  foundry  and  machine  shop  products,  and  musical 
instruments.  Value  of  Product  (1913),  $11,571,000;  Pay- 
roll, $4,232,000. 

Waltham  is  a  manufacturing  town  best  known  as  the  home 
of  modern  watch  making.  It  was  here  that  machine-made 
watches  were  first  manufactured.  The  factories  of  the  Wal- 
tham Watch  Company  are  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Charles 
river.  The  works  of  the  E.  Howard  Watch  Company  are 
also  in  Waltham.  There  are  several  plants  accessory  to  the 
industry, — the  American  Watch  Tool  Company,  and  the 
O'Hara  Waltham  Dial  Company. 

Main  Street  (R.  i,  p  149)  was  the  Old  Post  Road,  originally 
called  the  County  Road  and  later  the  Sudbury  Road. 

On  Main  St.,  eastward,  near  the  Wat ertown  line,  is  the  Gov- 
ernor Gore  house,  on  the  left.  It  is  a  handsome  brick  residence, 
erected  by  Christopher  Gore,  Washington's  friend,  Governor 
of  the  Commonwealth,  who  gave  Harvard  University  the  old 
library  building,  Gore  Hall,  now  demolished.  The  estate  of 
Miss  Cornelia  Warren  is  renowned  for  its  maze,  a  labyrinth  of 
thick  arbor  vitae  hedge,  a  reproduction  of  the  famous  one 
made  for  Cardinal  Wolsey  at  Hampton  Court. 

At  Waltham,  Beaver  Brook  flows  into  the  Charles.  The  first  men- 
tion of  this  region  in  history  occurs  in  the  journal  of  Governor  Winthrop, 
Jan.  27,  1632: 

"The  Governor  and  some  company  with  him  went  up  Charles  River, 
about  eight  miles  above  Watertown,  and  named  the  first  brook,  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river,  Beaver  Brook,  because  the  beavers  had  shorn 
down  great  trees  there  and  made  divers  dams  across  the  brook.  Thence 
they  went  to  a  great  rock  upon  which  stood  a  high  stone,  cleft  asunder, 
that  four  men  might  go  through,  which  they  called  Adam's  chair, 
because  the  youngest  of  their  company  was  Adam  Winlhrop.  Thence 
they  came  to  another  brook,  greater  than  the  former,  which  they 
called  Masters  Brook,  because  the  eldest  of  their  company  was  one 
John  Masters."  This  latter  is  the  present  Stony  Brook. 

Originally  part  of  Watertown  this  was  known  as  the  Further  Plain  or 


480  WALTHAM— BOSTON 


the  Great  Plain.  The  first  grant  of  500  acres  was  made  to  John  Old- 
ham,  an  adventurer,  a  convivial  sort  of  chap,  and  one  of  the  compan- 
ions at  "  Merry  Mount."  In  1636  while  trading  in  his  pinnace  at  Block 
Island  he  was  killed  by  the  Indians,  but  was  avenged  by  John  Gallop, 
in  what  has  been  called  the  first  American  sea  fight.  These  incidents 
were  the  direct  cause  of  the  Pequot  War. 

The  Waltham  Watch  Industry  began  in  Roxbury  in  1850,  but  was 
transferred  to  Waltham  in  1854  under  the  name  of  the  Boston  Watch 
Company.  The  company  failed  in  1857  and  the  American  Watch 
Company  was  formed.  Since  they  have  been  able  to  keep  a  high 
tariff  on  imported  watches  their  difficulties  seem  to  have  been  greatly 
lessened.  All  the  parts  are  machine  made.  Output  one  million  a  year. 

Half  a  mile  east  of  the  center  of  Waltham  on  Main  St.  avoid 
R.R.  crossing,  taking  the  first  turn  to  the  left,  with  trolley, 
Linden  St.,  which  leads  into  Trapelo  Road  to  the  Waver! ey 
Oaks  (42.5),  in  Beaver  Brook  Reservation.  From  the  road 
these  oaks,  though  perhaps  a  thousand  years  old,  are  not 
especially  impressive.  They  stand  on  a  ridge,  or  esker.  On 
the  hill  to  the  left  above  are  the  beautiful  grounds  of  the 
McLean  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  established  1848, — the  first 
institution  of  the  sort  in  the  country. 

Continuing  through  BELMONT  (44.0),  the  route  follows 
Pleasant  St.,  to  Arlington.  To  the  right  about  Spy  Pond  is 
a  great  market-garden  section  with  hundreds  of  acres  under 
glass.  At  152  Pleasant  St.,  set  somewhat  back  and  overlook- 
ing Spy  Pond,  is  the  home  of  the  late  John  T.  Trowbridge, 
author  of  "Darius  Green"  and  "Cudjo's  Cave,"  and  friend  of 
the  great  New  England  literary  group  of  50  years  ago.  He 
sang  the  praise  of  this  road: 

"It  winds  between 

Broad  slopes  of  green, 
Wood-mantled  and  shaggy  highland 
And  shores  that  rise 
From  the  lake,  which  lies 
Below,  with  its  one  fair  island. 
So  here,  well  back 
From  the  shaded  track, 
By  the  curve  of  its  greenest  crescent, 
Today  I  swing 
In  my  hammock  and  sing 
The  praise  of  the  street  named  Pleasant." 

ARLINGTON  CENTER  (42.5).  Turn  right  on  Massachusetts 
Ave.,  left  at  the  Old  Cooper  Tavern  (1796),  and  right  into  the 
Mystic  Valley  Parkway  to 

MEDFORD  (44.5;  p  600).  The  route  turns  left  along  Forest 
St.  with  trolley  through  MIDDLESEX  FELLS. 

It  consists  essentially  of  a  broad  plateau  thrust  south  from  Stone- 
ham  between  the  valleys  of  the  Aberjona  and  Maiden  rivers,  a  surface 
minutely  broken  into  small  hills  and  vales.  It  is  a  region  of  hard 
rocks  which  preserves  in  many  portions  the  level  of  the  original  pene- 
plain (p  24).  The  larger  part  was  acquired  by  the  Metropolitan  Park 
Commissioners  in  February,  1894.  The  name  was  adopted  at  the  sug- 


R.    21.     ROUND    ABOUT    METROPOLITAN    BOSTON  481 

gestion  of  Sylvester  Baxter.  He  wrote:  "The  nature  of  this  region 
cannot  be  better  characterized  than  by  the  application  of  the  old 
Saxon  designation  fells, — a  common  enough  word  in  England,  meaning 
a  tract  of  wild  stone  hills,  corresponding  to  the  German  word  'felsen.'" 

The  route  lies  northward  skirting  the  shore  of  Spot  Pond. 

Note.  Perhaps  the  more  attractive  way  is  by  the  Woodland 
Road  forking  to  the  right  of  the  pond,  and  leading  to  Saugus. 

On  the  right  are  the  buildings  of  the  New  England  Sani- 
tarium; at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  the  high-service  pumping  sta- 
tion. Further  along  is  the  Middlesex  Fells  Zoo.  At  the  left 
is  Bear  Hill  with  a  new  concrete  observatory  (340  ft). 

STONEHAM  (49.0;  p  510).  Turn  right,  into  Franklin  St. 
with  trolley.  MELROSE  (51.5).  Continue  east  on  Green  St., 
following  trolley,  bearing  right  into  Main  St.  The  lefthand 
road  leads  to  Lynn  Woods  (R.  34). 

54.5  SAUGUS.  Alt  20  ft.  Pop  8047  (1910),  10,226  (1915).  Essex 
Co.  Settled  1629.  Indian  name,  meaning  "extended." 
Mfg.  brick,  rubber  goods,  spices,  and  woolens. 

Off  the  main  routes  of  travel,  it  has  passed  through  the  cen- 
turies but  little  changed.  There  are  many  old  Colonial  houses 
standing  with  projecting  upper  stories. 

On  the  river  is  a  curious  old  tidal  mill  which  still  grinds 
spices.  Saugus  was  the  site  of  the  first  iron  works  in  the 
colonies.  A  pile  of  slag  near  the  center  of  the  town  still  marks 
where  the  foundries  stood  in  1639.  Nearby,  at  137  Central 
St.,  is  the  so-called  Iron  Works  House  with  huge  chimney  and 
projecting  upper  story  (1648),  recently  acquired  by  Mr.  Wal- 
lace Nutting  for  restoration.  (Adm.  25  cents.)  Beside  the 
road  is  the  old  Seminary  building,  where  the  first  girls'  school 
in  America  was  started  in  1822. 

At  Monument  Square  bear  right  with  trolley,  crossing  R.R. 
and  forking  right.  At  the  wooden  church  (55.8),  bear  right, 
away  from  trolley,  and  turn  left  (56.5)  across  the  Saugus  river. 
Follow  Western  Ave.,  crossing  Market  Square  (57.5)  and  fork 
right  along  North  Common  St.,  straight  ahead  to  Broad  St. 

LYNN  (59.0;  R.  36,  p  630).  At  Washington  Square  fork 
right  into  Market  St.  and  turn  square  right  at  end  of  street  on 
State  Boulevard  to  Revere  Beach  at  65.0.  Cross  R.R.  con- 
tinuing through  Chelsea  (68.0)  to 

MEDFORD  (69.0;  p  600).  At  the  end  of  Parkway  bear  left 
on  Fellsway  crossing  Broadway  (70.0)  and  following  Walnut 
St.  and  Grove  St.  to  Union  Square, 

SOMERVILLE  (71.0;  p  509).  Continue  straight  ahead  to  R.R. 
bridge,  forking  on  bridge  into  Prospect  St.,  away  from  trolley. 

At  Central  Square,  Cambridge  (72.0;  p  463),  turn  left  on 
Massachusetts  Ave.,  across  Harvard  Bridge  to 
74.5     BOSTON  (R.  20,  p  451). 


ROUTES  OUT  OF 
OSTON 

eP.E.SARGENT 

•0 


(482) 


R.  22.     BOSTON  to  PLYMOUTH.  41.5  m. 

Via  QUINCY,  WEYMOUTH,  and  HANOVER. 

This  route  is  shorter  though  not  so  attractive  as  Route  30, 
which  it  follows  as  far  as  Quincy  (13.0).  From  Quincy  con- 
tinue past  the  Stone  Temple  along  Quincy  St.  to 

16.0     WEYMOUTH.     Alt   60  ft.     Pop    (twp)   12,895    (1910),   13,696 
(1915).     Norfolk  Co.     Settled  1622.     Indian  name   Wessa- 
gusset.     Mfg.  shoes,  paper  boxes,  fertilizers,  and  acids. 
Weymouth  was  one  of  the  original  shoe  towns  and  still  is 
the  home  of  several  factories,  including  the  "Stetson,"  the 
Clapp  Brothers,  and  the  Walker,  Strong,  and  Carroll  plants. 
The  township  contains  five  separate  villages,  none  of  surpassing 
interest.     Summer  cottages  are  numerous  on  the  shore  line 
and  in  South  Weymouth. 

At  North  Weymouth,  still  known  as  "Old  Spain,"  in  1622  one 
Thomas  Weston,  a  London  merchant  of  apparently  good  repute,  es- 
tablished a  plantation.  The  company  was.  somewhat  disorderly,  and 
was  piratical  in  intent  if  not  in  deed.  Their  brutal  conduct  led  the 
Indians  to  plot  their  slaughter,  which  was  only  frustrated  by  Miles 
Standish's  foresight  and  energy.  A  few  inhabitants  lingered  here  and 
the  town  was  incorporated  in  1635.  By  1870  the  Weymouths  had 
become  an  important  shoe  center  with  more  than  forty  factories,  large 
and  small,  since  mostly  absorbed  by  Brockton.  Its  earlier  industry  is 
apparent  from  the  jingle: 

"  Cohasset  for  beauty, 
Hingham  for  pride, 
If  not  for  its  herring 
Weymouth  had  died." 

At  the  farther  end  of  the  village  the  route  forks  left  away 
from  the  trolley,  following  the  Queen  Anne  turnpike  across 
Whitman  Pond  and  through  Lovell  Corners  and  Queen  Anne's 
Corner  (20.5;  p  526)  beside  Accord  Pond.  At  the  triple 
fork  here  continue  straight  ahead  through  the  hamlet  of 
ASSINIPPI  (22.5)  and  beside  Herring  Brook  to 

26.5     HANOVER.     Alt  60  ft.     Pop  (twp)   2326  (1910),  2666   (1915). 

Plymouth   Co.     Settled  1649.     Mfg.  fireworks,  nails,   and 

rubber  goods. 

The  village  is  pleasantly  situated  on  rising  ground  above 
North  River,  where  formerly  there  were  shipyards.  At  the 
ancient  forges  here  the  anchors  of  the  "Constitution"  were 
made  and  also  the  first  cast-iron  plows. 

Continuing  southeast  through  the  adjacent  hamlet  of  North 
Pembroke,  above  Herring  Brook  Swamp,  the  route  passes 
through  West  Duxbury  (31.5)  to  KINGSTON  (37.0),  where 
it  follows  Route  30  (p  536)  to 

41.5     PLYMOUTH. 

(483) 


R.  23.     BOSTON  to  BRIDGEWATER.         105.0  m. 
.  Returning  via  WALPOLE  and  NORWOOD. 

This  route  follows  Route  22  (p  482)  to  Weymouth  (16.0). 
At  the  end  of  the  village  fork  right  with  trolley. 

SOUTH  WEYMOUTH  (19.0)  is  one  of  the  larger  villages  of 
Weymouth  township.  At  Hay  ward's  Quarry  are  found  huge 
fossil  trilobites  (p  27).  ^Continuing  through  North  Abington, 
the  home  of  John  L.  Sullivan  (22.5),  the  route  enters 

24.0     ABINGTON.     Alt  80  ft.     Pop  (twp)  5455  (1910),  5646  (1915). 

Plymouth    Co.     Settled    1648.     Indian    name    Manamoos- 

keagin,  "many  beavers."     Mfg.  shoes  and  shoe  stock. 

Abington,  North  Abington,  Rockland,  and  Whitman   form 

one  of  the  principal  industrial  centers  of  the  Brockton  shoe  belt. 

25.5  WHITMAN.  Alt  75  ft.  Pop  (twp)  7292  (1910),  7520  (1915). 
Plymouth  Co.  Inc.  1886.  Mfg.  shoes,  shoe  stock,  and  nails. 

In  addition  to  the  shoe  industry  nail-making  has  long  been 
carried  on  here.  The  route  continues  to  East  Bridgewater  (28.5) 
and  Bridgewater  (31.5),  on  Route  31  (p  550).  , 

The  route  forks  right,  following  a  State  Road  through 

34.5  RAYNHAM.  Alt  SO  ft.  Pop  1725  (1910),  1810  (1916).  Bristol 
Co.  Settled  1650.  Indian  name  Cohanit  or  Hockamock. 

Iron-working  was  begun  here  by  the  Leonards  in  1652  and 
carried  on  by  that  family  for  more  than  a  century.  As  King 
Philip  obtained  weapons  from  the  forges  he  protected  them. 

Turning  right  from  Main  St.  on  Broadway  fork  left  on 
Washington  St.  away  from  trolley,  joining  it  again  on  Bay  St. 
and  leaving  it  on  the  left  fork  just  beyond.  Crossing  wooden 
bridge  (40.0),  follow  Basset  St.,  through  NORTON  (46.5),  allied 
to  Attleboro  in  the  jewelry  industry.  It  is  also  the  seat  of 
Wheaton  College,  for  the  education  of  girls. 

50.0     MANSFIELD.     Alt  178  ft.     Pop  (twp)  5183  (1910),  5772  (1915). 
Bristol   Co.     Inc.   1775.     Mfg.    chocolate,  straw  hats,   taps 
and  dies,  jewelry,  small  tools,  and  baskets. 
Mansfield  is  dominated  by  the  Lowney  Chocolate  factories. 
The  employees  have  'model'  homes,  athletic  fields,  clubs,  and 
a  cooperative  bank.     Their  model  farm  also  supplies  the  milk 
used  in  the  chocolate. 

From  Mansfield  cross  R.R.  by  the  station  and  follow  trolley. 

5J.5     FOXBORO.     Alt  296  ft.     Pop  (twp)  3863  (1910),  3755  (1915). 

Norfolk  Co.     Inc.  1778.     Mfg.  straw  hats  and  steam  fittings. 

The  straw  industry  has  long  been  the  principal  business  of 

the  village.     Following  the  trolley  past  the  Common,  at  West 

Foxboro  (54.5)  fork  left  to  WRENTHAM  (58.5),  joining  Route  1 

(p   106),  which  leads  back   to  BOSTON  (84.5).     An  optional 

route  leads  via  Franklin  (p  218)  and  Route  3,  to  Framingham. 

(484) 


R.  24.     BOSTON  to  WELLESLEY,  FRAMINGHAM, 
and  GRAFTON.  86.5  m. 

Returning  via  MEDWAY,  DOVER,  and  NEEDHAM. 

This  route  leads  through  some  of  the  most  delightful  inland 
country  in  the  vicinity  of  Boston,  a  region  largely  pre-empted 
for  residential  estates.  The  development  of  this  region  by 
Boston  people  in  the  last  decade  since  the  advent  of  the  auto- 
mobile has  been  rapid  and  continuous,  promoted  largely  by 
the  completion  some  twenty-five  years  ago  of  the  Common- 
wealth Avenue  Boulevard,  which  offers  perhaps  the  best  en- 
trance and  exit  to  and  from  Boston. 

The  route  leaves  Boston  by  way  of  Commonwealth  Ave., 
along  which  for  two  miles  are  the  Boston  headquarters  of  the 
principal  automobile  firms.  The  Avenue  traverses  the  Brighton 
district.  To  the  right  is  Allston,  and  the  Harvard  Stadium. 
Skirting  the  parked  shores  of  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir,  on  the 
left  are  the  new  buildings  and  notable  tower  of  Boston  College. 
Further  on,  the  Braeburn  Country  Club  with  its  golf  links  is 
on  the  left.  At  Washington  St.,  before  reaching  the  center 
of  Auburndale,  turn  left,  passing  the  Woodland  Park  Hotel. 

Note.  Just  before  reaching  Newton  Lower  Falls,  Quinna- 
bequin  Road,  on  the  left,  leads  in  three  miles  to  Newton  Upper 
Falls.  This  attractive  highway,  which  belongs  to  the  Metro- 
politan Park  System,  runs  for  the  most  part  along  the  banks 
of  the  Charles  river. 

Washington  Street  crosses  the  R.R.  and  iron  bridge  over 
the  Charles  river,  entering 

11.5     NEWTON  LOWER  FALLS.     (Part  of  Newton.) 

Newton  Lower  Falls  was  one  of  the  earliest  manufacturing  centers 
in  America.  Iron  works  were  established  here  as  early  as  1703  and 
soon  afterward  mills  were  built  at  the  falls  of  the  Charles,  trans- 
forming the  little  settlement  into  a  thriving  industrial  village.  One 
of  the  first  paper  mills  in  the  United  States  was  erected  here  in  1790, 
and  sawmills,  clothing  and  shoddy  mills  were  prosperous  during  the 
first  half  of  the  nineteenth  century.  Although  the  place  has  lost 
much  of  its  former  importance  there  are  still  several  factories. 

To  the  right  is  Concord  Street,  connecting  with  Norumbega 
and  Weston.  On  the  brow  of  Concord  Street  Hill  stands  St. 
Mary's  Episcopal  Church  (1814),  half-hidden  by  trees. 

The  main  entrance  to  Echo  Bridge  is  from  Ellis  St.,  out  of 
Boylston  St.,  near  the  river.  From  the  village  a  guide  board 
shows  a  plank  walk  between  two  houses  which  leads  to  the 
top  of  the  bridge.  Below  the  great  stone  arch  there  is  a  remark- 
able echo.  The  rocky  gorge  with  its  hemlock  growth  and  the 
river  forms  one  of  the  most  romantic  spots  of  the  Charles,  the 
Hemlock  Gorge  Reservation,  smallest  of  the  park  reserves. 

(485) 


486  NEWTON   LOWER   FALLS— WELLESLEY 

The  brick  mill  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  New  England.  Echo 
Bridge  carries  the  Sudbury  aqueduct  of  the  Boston  water 
system  across  the  river. 

On  the  right  just  after  crossing  the  river  is  the  site  of  a 
famous  old  tavern  of  Revolutionary  days.  Sam  Lawton,  the 
wellknown  character  of  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe's  "Old  Town 
Folks"  and  "Sam  Lawson's  Fireside  Stories,"  was  the  black- 
smith here  for  a  time. 

The  route  continues  up  a  long  hill  lined  with  suburban 
estates  through  Wellesley  Farms;  passing  the  Wellesley  Hills 
Congregational  Church  on  the  right,  and  keeping  left  at  iron 
water  trough  in  fork,  the  route  enters 

12.5     WELLESLEY  HILLS.     (Part  of  Wellesley.} 

At  Wellesley  Hills  we  pass  on  the  left  the  compiling  offices 
of  the  Roger  W.  Babson  Statistical  Organization,  of  nation- 
wide reputation.  Here  statistics  are  assorted  and  conclu- 
sions deduced  therefrom  which  are  eagerly  read  by  the  leading 
bankers,  merchants,  and  investors.  These  deductions  are 
based  on  Nature's  law,  that,  as  all  action  is  followed  by  equal 
reaction,  it  is  necessary  only  to  know  the  past  in  order  to  fore- 
,cast  the  future.  Of  late  years  this  region  has  had  a  rapid 
development  as  a  center  of  suburban  homes. 

Continuing  we  follow  the  single  track  trolley  directly  to 

14.0     WELLESLEY.     Alt  140ft.     Pop  (twp)  5413  (1910),  6439  (1915). 
Norfolk  Co.     Settled  1640. 

Wellesley  is  famous  as  the  home  of  Wellesley  College  and 
for  its  group  of  pretentious  country  estates.  Incorporated 
in  1 88 1  it  was  named  from  the  extensive  estate  of  the  Welles 
family  which  came  into  the  possession  of  Mr.  H.  H.  Hunnewell. 

Before  coming  to  the  Public  Library,  on  the  right  is 
the  little  brown  house  which  was  formerly  the  dwelling  of 
Dr.  Morton,  the  discoverer  of  ether.  The  little  cupola  room 
was  Dr.  Morton's  laboratory,  and  there,  it  is  said,  some  of  his 
most  important  experiments  were  made  on  his  dog.  On  a 
knoll  a  little  beyond,  shaded  by  trees,  are  the  Town  Hall 
and  Public  Library  building,  the  gift  of  Mr.  H.  H.  Hunnewell. 
From  the  road  they  have  the  air  of  private  mansions  more 
than  public  buildings.  To  the  north  is  a  large  tract  of  forest 
extending  into  Weston  and  known  as  "The  Hundreds." 

To  the  left  of  the  village,  on  Grove  St.,  on  both  sides  of  the 
road  are  the  buildings  of  Dana  Hall,  a  leading  preparatory 
school  for  girls.  Further  along  on  this  same  road  is  Ridge 
Hill  with  Ridge  Hill  Farm  in  the  vicinity.  This  estate  ac- 
quired notoriety  under  a  former  owner,  William  Emerson 
Baker,  who  had  made  a  fortune  in  sewing  machines.  Here 


R.  24.     BOSTON,  WELLESLEY,  FRAMINGHAM,  GRAFTON     487 

he  gave  sumptuous  fetes  featured  by  "surprises"  for  his  guests 
in  which  trap  doors,  secret  passageways  in  the  garden,  and 
the  like,  played  a  part.  Now  the  garden  is  a  ruin,  but  tall 
pillars,  archways,  portions  of  tunnels,  and  grotesque  faces  on 
the  walls  can  still  be  seen. 

From  Wellesley  Square  the  main  route  follows  Central  St., 
direct  with  the  trolley,  to  Natick  and  Framingham.  The 
detour  via  South  Natick  is  much  more  attractive. 

Leaving  Wellesley  Square  the  route  passes  on  the  right  the 
railway  station  and  a  short  distance  beyond  on  the  left,  the 
Hunnewell  School  and  a  small  stone  building,  a  model  kinder- 
garten under  the  supervision  of  Wellesley  College  to  which 
children  of  the  town  are  admitted.  Beyond  is  Fisk  Cottage, 
a  dormitory  for  Wellesley  students  who  partially  work  their 
way.  Those  wishing  to  visit  the  grounds  may  enter  by  a  road 
a  short  distance  beyond  the  Observatory,  at  the  further  corner 
of  which  stands  a  stone  house,  the  North  Lodge. 

The  Quadrangle,  familiarly  known  as  the  'Quad,'  is  a 
group  of  brick  dormitories  attractively  situated  about  a  court 
facing  the  road  just  beyond.  Further  along  are  the  athletic 
fields  and  the  Mary  Hemenway  Gymnasium,  formerly  the 
Boston  Normal  School  of  Gymnastics,  but  now  permanently 
connected  with  the  college.  Upon  entering  the  grounds  across 
the  meadow  the  Shakespeare  House  is  on  the  right,  and  above 
on  the  hill  overlooking  the  lake  are  the  new  buildings  erected 
on  the  site  of  College  Hall,  burned  in  the  spring  of  1914.  These 
are  the  buildings  for  which  the  college  girls  and  alumnae  raised 
the  $1,000,000  with  which  to  supplement  the  Rockefeller  Fund. 
On  the  left  is  a  group  of  dormit  ories  on  the  hill  and  the  Farns- 
worth  Art  Building,  the  gift  of  Isaac  D.  Farnsworth  of  Boston. 
To  the  right  is  the  Library  and  beside  it  the  Music  Hall, 
beyond  which  is  the  Memorial  Chapel,  in  which  is  the  memorial 
to  Alice  Freeman  Palmer.  Scattered  about  are  attractive 
little  fraternity  houses.  Stone  Hall  faces  the  lake,  and  at 
the  left  is  the  Barn,  where  all  entertainments  are  given. 

Wellesley  College  was  founded  in  1875  by  Henry  Fowle  Durant, 
a  prominent  Boston  lawyer.  The  old  College  Hall  was  the  original 
building  and  it  was  here  that  Alice  Freeman  Palmer  did  so  much  early 
work.  The  faculty  and  the  board  of  trustees  are  composed  of  both 
men  and  women.  There  are  now  about  1500  students  in  attendance. 

Detour  to  South  Natick  and  Natick.  4.0  m. 

Keeping  to  the  right,  leave  the  college  grounds  on  Washing- 
ton St.,  lined  on  either  side  by  the  Hunnewell,  Shaw,  and 
Sargent  estates.  On  the  right  among  the  trees  is  the  square 
brown  house  occupied  by  Mrs.  Durant,  the  widow  of  the 
founder  of  Wellesley.  Further  on,  to  the  right,  is  the  huge 
white  residence  erected  by  H.  H.  Hunnewell.  The  grounds 


WELLESLEY— NATICK 


are  usually  open  to  the  public  and  well  repay  a  visit,  as  the 
place  is  justly  renowned  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the 
vicinity  of  Boston.  The  grounds  adjoin  those  of  Wellesley 
College  and  include  a  good  deal  of  the  shore  of  Lake  Waban. 
In  this  "private  arboretum"  there  are  about  300  specimens 
of  cone-bearing  trees.  Special  objects  of  interest  are  the 
Italian  garden  on  the  lake,  with  the  pavilion,  the  pine  walk, 
and  the  rhododendron  and  azalea  gardens. 

The  town  bears  ample  evidence  of  the  liberality  of  the 
Hunnewell  family,  especially  of  Horatio  Hollis  Hunnewell. 
Mr.  Hunnewell,  a  member  of  the  old  Cambridge  family,  en- 
tered the  Welles  banking  house  in  Paris  in  1826,  where  he 
laid  the  foundation  of  his  fortune.  This  he  further  increased 
in  1835  by  marrying  Isabella  Welles,  daughter  of  John  Welles 
of  West  Needham  (Wellesley),  and  niece  of  Samuel  Welles,  the 
Paris  banker.  Mrs.  Hunnewell  inherited  the  large  Welles 
estate  here  and  her  husband  added  much  to  it  from  time 
to  time.  It  has  been  partly  subdivided  among  the  children 
of  Mr.  Hunnewell,  the  Shaws,  and  the  Sargents. 

On  the  left  just  before  reaching  South  Natick  lies  Elm 
Bank,  the  beautiful  Cheney  estate,  now  the  residence  of  the 
William  H.  Baltzells.  The  Charles  river  winds  through  t he- 
grounds.  Benjamin  P.  Cheney  was  a  pioneer  in  the  express 
business  of  America  and  transcontinental  railways.  The 
new  brick  house  built  by  Dr.  W.  H.  Baltzell,  who  married 
Miss  Cheney,  can  be  partly  discerned  through  the  trees. 
Some  of  the  great  elms  are  supposed  to  have  been  brought 
from  Newton  and  planted  by  Eliot's  Indians. 

SOUTH  NATICK  (2.0),  a  quiet  old  village,  is  the  scene  of  the 
Apostle  Eliot's  Indian  Plantation  and  the  "Old  Town"  of 
Harriet  Beecher  Stowe. 

The  parish  received  the  name,  Natick,  when  in  1650  it  was  granted 
to  John  Eliot  for  his  "praying  Indians."  At  the  fork  in  the  road  stands 
the  venerable  old  oak  under  which  Eliot  first  preached  to  the  Indians 
and  later  inspired  Longfellow's  sonnet.  In  1651  the  first  meeting 
house  was  completed.  The  present  Eliot  Unitarian  Church  is  the 
fifth  on  the  site  and  was  erected  in  1828.  For  more  than  half  a  cen- 
tury the  "plantation"  remained  a  self-governing  Indian  community. 
Eliot  had  drawn  up  an  ingenious  form  of  government,  the  essential 
feature  of  which  was  that  most  of  the  land  was  held  in  common.  The 
old  Indian  burial  ground  was  on  the  southern  slope  of  the  hill,  and 
a  number  of  interesting  relics,  such  as  axes,  knives,  and  cooking  uten- 
sils, have  been  exhumed  here  and  are  now  in  the  Historical  Museum. 
In  1718  the  first  white  settler  arrived  and  from  then  on  the  Indians 
were  gradually  displaced.  South  Natick,  or  Old  Town,  was  a  pros- 
perous country  village  during  the  eighteenth  century,  and  a  number 
of  the  houses  date  from  that  period. 

A  short  distance  beyond  the  Eliot  oak  at  the  road  forks  is 
the  Old  Natick  Inn,  a  favorite  hostelry  of  the  quieter  sort.  It 


R.  24.     BOSTON,  WELLESLEY,  FRAMINGHAM,  GRAFTON      489 

stands  on  the  site  of  the  Eliakim  Morill  Tavern,  a  wellknown 
house  of  Revolutionary  days.  Professor  Calvin  E.  Stowe, 
D.D.,  was  born  here  in  1802.  According  to  himself  he  was 
"chiefly  known  as  the  husband  of  his  wife."  He  desired  to 
have  his  wife  write  a  story  about  his  native  town,  and  accord- 
ingly Harriet  Beecher  Stowe  came  here  in  1863  with  her 
husband  to  gather  material  for  "Old  Town  Folks."  During 
their  visit  the  Stowes  stayed  at  the  so-called  White  House. 
All  of  the  characters  in  the  novel  were  taken  more  or  less  faith- 
fully from  the  people  of  this  little  village  who  came  under 
Mrs.  Stowe's  observation.  The  famous  story-teller  Sam 
Lawson  was  Samuel  Lawton,  whose  house  stands  on  Eliot  St. 
between  the  Parson  Lothrop  house  and  the  tavern  site.  The 
Rev.  Stephen  Badger,  who  came  to  South  Natick  as  its  pastor 
in  1753,  is  the  Parson  Lothrop  of  "Old  Town."  The  Parson 
Lothrop  house,  built  in  1753,  is  a  splendid  old  Colonial  resi- 
dence, now  owned  by  Arthur  Hunnewell.  In  front  of  the 
house  is  a  large  elm,  one  of  the  surviving  "Friendship  Elms" 
planted  by  the  Indians  to  signify  their  good-will  toward  the 
minister.  Not  far  away  is  the  old  cemetery  with  several 
quaint  tombstones.  At  the  center  of  the  Common  is  the 
Eliot  monument,  to  the  left  on  Eliot  St.  is  the  Bacon  Free 
Library  and  in  it  the  Historical  Museum.  From  here  Union 
Street  leads  directly  to  the  main  route  at  Natick  (4.0). 

From  Wellesley  Square  the  main  route  follows  trolley  to 

17.0  NATICK.  Alt  158  ft.  Pop  (twp)  9866  (1910),  11,119  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1660.  Indian  name,  "a  place  of 
hills."  Mfg.  shoes,  shirts,  and  baseballs. 

This  town  had  its  origin  in  1660  as  a  plantation  for  John 
Eliot's  "praying  Indians"  (see  above, — South  Natick).  Dur- 
ing the  last  century  this  portion  of  the  town  became  a  thriving 
manufacturing  center  while  the  original  settlement  at  South 
Natick  remained  a  quiet  village  community.  It  is  just  far 
enough  removed  from  Boston  to  be  a  mercantile  center  in  kself 
and  it  is  the  distributing  center  for  a  number  of  outlying 
towns.  The  annual  value  of  factory  products  is  about 
$4,000,000,  of  which  shoes  constitute  two  thirds. 

The  growing  of  flowers  under  glass  is  an  important  local 
industry,  in  fact,  Natick  is  one  of  the  largest  centers  in  this 
country  for  the  cultivation  of  roses.  The  Waban  Conserva- 
tories, a  corporation  run  by  Alexander  Montgomery,  has  twelve 
acres  of  hot-houses  warmed  by  forty  miles  of  pipe  and  covered 
by  400,000  square  feet  of  glass,  and  pays  a  fifth  of  the  entire 
water  tax  of  the  town.  It  supplies  Boston,  New  York,  and 
other  large  centers  and  has  introduced  many  famous  varieties 


4QO  NATICK— SOUTHBORO 

of  roses  to  America.  The  wellknown  Walnut  Hill  School,  for 
girls,  is  situated  on  the  hill  north  of  the  town. 

Proceeding  on  the  direct  road  to  Framingham,  at  West 
Natick  the  route  passes  the  little  Henry  Wilson  shop,  where 
the  "Natick  Cobbler"  learned  his  trade  as  a  shoemaker. 
Henry  Wilson  (1812-75)  was  bound  as  an  apprentice  to  a  New 
Hampshire  farmer  until  he  was  twenty-one  years  old.  He 
then  came  to  Natick  with  eighty  dollars  in  his  pocket  to  learn 
the  trade  of  cobbler.  By  1855  he  had  become  a  U.S.  Senator 
and  was  prominent  in  the  war  legislation  under  Lincoln;  in 
1872  he  became  Vice-President.  Upon  his  death,  according 
to  Whittier,  he  "left  the  world  as  poor  as  he  entered  it." 

There  are  some  fine  farms  in  the  vicinity,  notably  that  of 
John  Hopewell,  who  has  successfully  solved  the  problem  of 
growing  alfalfa  and  cuts  it  at  the  rate  of  eleven  tons  to  the 
acre,  feeding  it  green  to  his  fifty-five  choice  Guernsey  cows. 

The  route  now  skirts  Lake  Cochituate,  still  an  important 
part  of  the  Boston  Metropolitan  Water  System.  The  lake 
stretches  three  miles  northward  into  Framingham  and  Way- 
land,  and  has  an  area  of  900  acres  with  a  watershed  of  19 
square  miles.  Work  on  the  reservoir  was  begun  in  1846, 
Josiah  Quincy  of  Boston  lifting  the  first  spadeful  of  earth. 
Its  capacity  is  1,500,000,000  gallons.  The  water  runs  from 
here  through  a  brick  aqueduct  about  fourteen  miles  long  to 
the  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir,  crossing  the  Charles  river  by 
means  of  an  inverted  siphon  of  iron  pipes.  Two  and  a  half 
miles  off  the  State  Road  between  the  northern  end  of  the  lake 
and  Lake  Dudley,  on  the  line  of  the  old  Connecticut  trail,  is 
the  Mansion  Inn,  which  occupies  the  old  Simpson  estate  of 
one  hundred  acres  and  is  a  favorite  resort  for  motorists. 

20.5  FRAMINGHAM.  Alt  199  ft.  Pop  (twp)  12,948  (1910),  15,860 
(1915).  Middlesex  Co.  Inc.  1700.  Mfg.  tags  and  paper 
specialties,  straw  hats,  liniment,  rubber  goods,  shoes,  lasts, 
and  boilers. 

Framingham,  formerly  known  as  South  Framingham,  has 
so  grown  in  importance  through  the  multiplication  of  its  indus- 
trial establishments  that  it  has  dropped  the  "South"  and  is 
now  known  as  Framingham.  The  older  portion  of  the  town, 
to  the  north,  Framingham  Center,  is  a  quiet  residential  quar- 
ter for  Boston  business  men.  To  the  northeast  within  the 
township  lies  the  hamlet  of  Saxonville,  where  the  Sudbury 
river  furnishes  waterpower  for  the  manufacture  of  worsteds 
and  carpet  yarns.  The  Saxonville  Mills  are  the  oldest  manu- 
facturing plant  in  "  the  Framinghams." 

The  Dennison  Manufacturing  Company,  the  "tag  people" 
who  "produce  everything  made  of  paper,"  is  the  dominating 


R.  24.     BOSTON,  WELLESLEY,  FRAMINGHAM,  GRAFTON      491 

industry.  Begun  by  Andrew  Dennison,  then  a  shoemaker  in 
Brunswick,  Me.,  with  the  making  of  jewelers'  cardboard  boxes, 
it  is  today  a  $5,600,000  corporation  with  2800  employees.  The 
company  operates  under  an  'industrial  partnership'  plan; 
some  200  employees  will  eventually  control  the  business. 

The  first  land  grants  in  this  region  were  made  about  1640,  one  of 
them  to  President  Dunster  of  Harvard  College.  A  town  was  incor- 
porated at  the  Center  in  1700.  The  surrounding  country  is  most 
attractive,  including  many  of  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  Metropolitan 
Water  System.  Nobscot  Mountain  (648  ft)  to  the  north  is  the  high- 
est elevation  between  the  Blue  Hills  and  Mount  Wachusett.  On  the 
summit  is  an  Indian  cairn.  Nobscot  spring  water  is  bottled  near  here 
and  supplied  to  Boston  and  vicinity. 

From  Framingham  the  route  turns  northward  along  Union 
Ave.,  between  Farm  and  Learned  Ponds.  A  mile  to  the  right 
are  the  camp  grounds  of  the  Massachusetts  State  Militia. 

FRAMINGHAM  CENTER  (22.5)  is  a  quiet  village  in  striking 
contrast  to  its  busy  industrial  daughter  to  the  south.  There 
are  some  fine  modern  residences  in  the  region  about  here,  and 
the  Framingham  Country  Club  is  a  center  for  the  social  life 
of  this  region  and  has  a  good  golf  course.  Its  club  house 
dates  from  1693  and  contains  a  chimney  with  a  'hiding-hole' 
from  Indians  in  its  center.  The  State  Normal  School,  the 
oldest  in  the  country,  was  established  in  Lexington  in  1839 
and  removed  to  this  town  in  1853.  Wallace  Nutting's  studio 
employs  scores  of  helpers  in  the  making  of  colored  platinotypes 
of  Colonial  houses,  interiors,  and  the  like.  Mr.  Nutting  owns 
and  maintains  a  chain  of  fine  old  Colonial  houses  through  New 
England.  On  the  western  outskirts  of  the  town  the  Danforth 
School,  for  young  boys,  occupies  a  fine  old  estate. 

The  route  crosses  the  trolley  and  follows  Pleasant  St.,  a 
winding  macadam  road  skirting  a  series  of  reservoirs  belonging 
to  the  Metropolitan  Water  System.  Approaching  Southboro 
the  road  crosses  one  arm  of  Reservoir  Number  Five,  one  of  the 
largest  in  this  region,  some  four  miles  in  length,  created  in 
1892  by  overflowing  a  great  region  of  lowland. 

27.5     SOUTHBORO.     Alt  314 ft.     Pop  (twp)  1745  (1910),  1898  (1915). 

Worcester  Co.  Inc.  1727.  Mfg.  shoes  and  woolens. 
Southboro  is  best  known  as  the  home  of  St.  Mark's  School 
and  for  its  productive  model  farms.  Much  of  its  educational 
and  agricultural  success  is  due  to  the  Burnett  family.  In 
1847  Joseph  Burnett  bought  the  land  now  known  as  Deerfoot 
Farm  and  commenced  farming  upon  scientific  methods.  He 
imported  a  herd  of  Jersey  cattle  in  1854,  one  of  the  first  to  be 
brought  to  this  country,  and  in  1872  began  to  sell  Deerfoot 
Farm  products,  which  today  are  familiar  to  the  housewives  of 
Greater  Boston.  The  first  successful  cream  separator  resulted 


492  SOUTHBORO— GRAFTON 

from  experiments  made  here  by  a  German  inventor  and  the 
Hon.  Edward  Burnett.  The  model  dairy  is  worth  a  visit  for 
those  interested  in  the  subject.  James  Russell  Lowell  spent 
some  of  his  last  days  at  Deerfoot  Farm  as  the  guest  of  his  son- 
in-law,  Edward  Burnett. 

St.  Mark's  School  stands  on  rising  ground  to  the  right.  The 
main  building,  of  half  timber  construction,  is  built  about  an 
open  quadrangle  facing  the  south.  The  chapel  was  given  by 
August  Belmont  as  a  memorial  to  his  brother  Raymond  Rogers 
Belmont.  Rev.  Robert  Traill  Spence  Lowell,  the  elder  brother 
of  James,  was  the  third  master  of  the  school.  The  scene  of  his 
"Antony  Brade,"  a  book  for  boys,  is  laid  at  St.  Mark's. 
Southboro  Arms,  an  attractive  inn  to  accommodate  guests  of 
St.  Mark's,  the  Fay  School,  and  motorists,  is  on  the  right  of  the 
road  in  the  village.  The  Fay  School,  founded  in  1866  by  Mrs. 
Eliza  Burnett  Fay  and  Miss  Harriet  Burnett  to  prepare  young 
boys  for  St.  Mark's,  occupies  an  attractive  Colonial  house, 
a  part  of  the  old  Burnett  estate,  on  the  left  of  the  road. 

The  town  of  Southboro  was  taken  from  the  southern  section  of 
Marlboro  and  was  named  accordingly.  The  rich  soil  led  the  Marl- 
boro settlers  to  use  this  territory  for  their  "cow  commons."  In  1732 
Southboro  was  called  before  a  grand  jury  at  Worcester  to  answer  to 
the  charge  of  "having  kept  no  public  school,"  and  forthwith  two 
school  masters  were  appointed  at  six  pounds  and  four  pounds  six 
shillings  per  year  respectively.  The  Episcopal  parish  of  Southboro 
has  in  the  last  half  century,  through  the  interest  of  wealthy  parish- 
ioners, spread  church  influence  through  the  surrounding  towns.  Mis- 
sions went  out  first  to  Marlboro  and  Hopkinton  and  through  the 
interest  of  St,  Mark's  boys  to  Westboro.  The  one  in  Marlboro  received 
in  1888  a  building  from  Montgomery  Sears,  a  Southboro  resident. 

33.5  WESTBORO.  Alt  298ft.  Pop  (twp)  5446  (1910),  5925  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Inc.  1717.  Mfg.  straw  goods,  underwear, 
and  muslin  curtains. 

Facing  the  elm-shaded  common,  on  which  is  the  Soldiers' 
Monument,  are  the  old  Meeting  House  and  the  Town  Hall. 
In  the  old  days  Brigham's  Tavern,  now  the  Westboro  Hotel, 
was  a  house  of  good  cheer  famous  for  its  mulled  wine,  prepared 
as  follows:  a  quart  of  hot  Madeira,  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water, 
six  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth,  and  the  whole  sweetened  and  spiced. 

To  the  north  of  the  village  are  the  State  reformatory  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Chauncey,  known  as  the  Lyman  School  for 
Boys,  and  the  Westboro  Insane  Hospital.  In  1846  a  reform 
school  for  boys  was  established  on  the  beautiful  northern  slope 
of  the  lake  and  largely  endowed  by  General  Theodore  Lyman. 
In  1885  the  buildings  of  the  school  were  occupied  by  the  insane 
hospital  and  the  school  rebuilt  across  the  lake  on  the  site  of 
the  first  meeting  house. 

The  Whitney  place,  long  the  most  imposing  dwelling  in  West- 
boro, was  the  scene  of  William  Dean  Howells'  "Annie  Kilburn." 


R.  24.     BOSTON,  WELLESLEY,  FRAMINGHAM,  GRAFTON      493 

Eli  Whitney  (1765-1825),  the  inventor  of  the  cotton  gin,  was 
born  in  a  farmhouse,  no  longer  standing,  two  miles  west  of  the 
village  on  the  Grafton  road.  Whitney's  gin  made  possible  the 
great  cotton  industry  of  the  South,  and  a  contemporary  authority 
declared  that  it  trebled  the  value  of  southern  cotton  lands. 

Note.  A  good  road  leads  northwest  through  Wessonville  to 
Northboro,  joining  Route  i  (p  142),  which  offers  a  return  to 
Boston. 

Like  the  other  "boro"  towns  in  the  vicinity  Westboro  is  an  offshoot 
of  Marlboro,  which  was  settled  from  Sudbury  in  1660.  The  mother 
town  has  continued  pre-eminent  and  is  the  manufacturing  center 
today,  while  the  various  offshoots,  including  Westboro,  remain  essen- 
tially quiet  country  towns  in  the  midst  of  rich  farming  lands.  For 
many  years  after  its  foundation  Westboro  continued  to  be  a  frontier 
town,  and  in  1724  when  the  Rev.  Ebenezer  Parkman  took  up  his  duties 
as  minister  he  came  "a  long  day's  journey  from  Boston,"  and  reach- 
ing his  parish  on  horseback,  walked  to  the  meeting  house  pistol  in 
hand  for  fear  of  wild  beasts  and  Indians.  Westboro  was  the  one 
hundredth  town  incorporated  in  Massachusetts.  Mrs.  Harriette 
Forbes'  volume  "The  Hundredth  Town"  contains  many  interesting 
local  details.  In  1828  the  manufacture  of  shoes  was  begun  here,  and 
straw  sewing  was  carried  on  extensively  by  the  middle  of  the  century. 
There  are  still  important  straw  factories  located  here. 

41.5  GRAFTON.  Alt  485  ft.  Pop  (twp)  5705  (1910),  6250  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Settled  1728.  Indian  name  Hasanamisco, 
"place  of  small  stones."  Mfg.  shoes,  cotton,  and  woolens. 

Grafton  is  a  picturesque  old  town  on  the  summit  of  a  hill; 
the  church  spire  emerging  from  the  trees  is  visible  for  miles 
around.  The  Blackstone  river  and  its  tributaries  furnish  the 
power  for  a  number  of  mills  here  and  at  North  Grafton. 

The  Grafton  Hunt  Club  at  North  Grafton,  the  first  country 
club  about  Worcester  and  one  of  the  best  known  in  New 
England,  was  founded  in  1895  by  Harry  Worcester  Smith, 
Rockwood  Hoar,  Frank  L.  Hale,  and  other  Worcester  County 
gentlemen  interested  in  sport.  There  are  frequent  meets  in 
the  autumn  for  fox  hunting.  The  club  land,  with  the  adjoin- 
ing estates  of  members,  occupies  2500  acres.  The  unpreten- 
tious club  house,  unseen  from  the  road,  is  reached  by  a  private 
road  through  the  woods.  Mr.  Smith's  estate,  Lordvale,  of 
600  acres  adjoining  the  club  grounds,  is  said  to  be  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  in  the  State.  In  the  western  portion  of  the 
park  beside  the  Millbury  road  are  the  kennels  and  stables  for 
the  Grafton  Hounds,  whose  name  and  fame  are  international, 
having  been  maintained  as  a  private  pack  for  twenty  years. 
They  won  the  great  International  English-American  Match  in 
Virginia  in  1905,  beating  a  pack  of  English  hounds,  the  prop- 
erty of  A.  Henry  Higginson,  master  of  the  Middlesex  Hunt. 
Mr.  Smith  is  Master  of  the  Hounds  and  hunted  this  pack  in 
Ireland  where  he  was  master  of  the  Westmeath  Pack,  1912-13. 


494  GRAFTON— MILFORD 

On  Brigham  Hill  is  the  Brigham  farm  with  a  house  two  cen- 
turies old.  The  estate  has  always  continued  in  the  Brigham 
family  and  in  the  house  is  preserved  the  original  Indian  grant. 
The  view  from  the  hill  is  very  extensive,  sweeping  beyond 
Worcester  over  the  intervening  hills  and  valleys  to  Mt.  Wa- 
chusett  and  more  distant  points.  (Afternoon  tea  can  be 
obtained  here  during  the  summer  months.) 

Route  19  (p  444),  from  Providence  to  Worcester,  New 
Hampshire,  and  Vermont,  passes  through  Grafton. 

In  1651  John  Eliot  established  his  third  band  of  "praying  Indians" 
at  a  native  village  on  this  site,  which  continued  to  prosper  for  half  a 
century  or  more.  Major  Daniel  Gookin,  who  visited  Grafton  in 
1674  in  company  with  the  Indian  Apostle,  says:  "This  village  is  not 
inferior  unto  any  of  the  Indian  plantations  for  rich  land  and  plenty 
of  meadow,  being  well  tempered  and  watered.  It  is  an  apt  place  for 
keeping  of  cattle  and  swine;  in  which  respect  this  people  are  the  best 
stored  of  any  Indian  town  of  their  size.  Their  ruler  is  named  Ana- 
weakin, — a  sober  and  discreet  man.  Their  teacher's  name  is  Tack- 
uppawillin,  his  brother, — a  pious  and  able  man,  and  apt  to  teach. 
Their  aged  father,  whose  name  I  remember  not,  is  a  grave  and  sober 
Christian,  and  deacon  of  the  church.  They  have  a  brother,  that  lives 
in  the  town,  called  James,  that  was  bred  among  the  English,  and 
employed  as  a  pressman  in  printing  the  Indian  Bible;  who  can  read 
well,  and,  as  I  take  it,  write  also.  .  .  .  This  is  a  hopeful  plantation." 
The  ancient  Indian  burial  place  here  still  yields  a  few  arrow  heads 
and  stone  mortars.  In  1728  residents  of  Marlboro,  Sudbury,  Concord, 
and  Stow  with  the  permission  of  the  General  Court  bought  7500  acres 
of  land  from  the  Indians,  agreeing  to  maintain  a  church  and  school 
of  which  the  Indians  should  have  free  use.  The  town  was  incor- 
porated in  1735  and  named  in  honor  of  the  Duke  of  Grafton. 

From  the  five  corners,  Grafton,  leave  Post  Office  and  Park 
on  left,  cross  high-speed  trolky  and  follow  direct  route,  with 
line  of  poles,  through  West  Upton.  This  region  is  a  wooded 
hilly  country  in  the  upper  watershed  of  the  Blackstone  river. 
Keeping  right  with  trolley  at  the  iron  water  trough  in  the  fork, 
turn  left  with  trolley  at  the  next  fork  through  UPTON  (47.5). 
Leaving  the  park  on  the  left,  turn  right  with  trolley,  following 
the  "Milford"  signs. 

54.0     MILFORD  (R.  3,  p  219). 

The  three  towns  of  Milford,  Hopedale,  and  Mendon  form 
almost  a  unit.     MENDON,  to  the  southwest,  was  the  mother 
town  of  the  other  two.     An  oldtime  versifier  thus  celebrated 
the  relations  of  old  Mendon  and  her  daughter  towns: 
"Let  Milford  boast  of  boots  and  shoes, 

Of  choicest  kinds  of  leather; 
And  Upton  girls  grow  rich  as  Jews 

On  bonnet,  band,  and  feather: 
Northbridge  and  Uxbridge  thrive  and  grow 

On  cotton,  steam,  and  water; 
While  Blackstone  spreads  her  branches  so, 
Though  she's  the  youngest  daughter. 


R.  24.     BOSTON,  WELLESLEY,  FRAMINGHAM,  GRAFTON      495 

Old  Mendon  yet  shall  raise  her  head; 

She  is  not  dead,  but  sleepeth: 
She  yet  remains  the  old  homestead; 

The  fathers'  dust  she  keepeth." 

The  remarkable  personality  of  Adin  Ballou,  founder  of  the 
"Hopedale  Community,"  united  them  in  a  religious  sense, 
and  for  the  last  half  century  they  have  been  closely  connected 
industrially  by  the  great  plant  of  the  Draper  Company  at 
Hopedale.  At  Mendon  is  Resthaven,  a  school  for  girls. 

HOPEDALE,  in  the  "dale"  between  Milford  and  Mendon,  has 
a  wide  reputation  as  a  model  town.  Most  of  the  operatives 
live  in  cottages  surrounded  by  lawns  and  gardens,  for  'tene- 
ments,' in  the  usually  accepted  sense  of  the  term,  do  not  exist 
here.  Mill  River  runs  through  the  town  from  the  northwest 
and  its  falls  furnish  waterpower. 

It  owes  its  origin  to  the  Rev.  Adin  Ballou  (1803-00).  He  was 
clearly  a  product  of  that  spirit  of  unrest  and  reform  which  affected 
New  England  religious  life  during  the  early  years  of  the  last  century. 
In  1831  he  became  pastor  of  an  independent  church  in  Mendon. 
Ballou  favored  women's  rights  and  what  he  called  "practical  Chris- 
tian socialism."  In  1842  he  founded  Hopedale  or  "Fraternal  Com- 
munity No.  I."  About  thirty  persons  joined  him  and  liv.ed  for  a  time 
in  one  house  on  a  poor  farm;  the  number  later  increased  to  over  300. 
Ballou  was  president  of  this  community,  whose  members  all  had  an 
equal  vote  as  to  the  use  of  property,  but  owned  individual  holdings; 
a  curious  arrangement  which  caused  bickerings  between  the  stock- 
holders and  those  whose  only  profit  came  from  labor.  In  1856  there 
was  a  deficit.  Ebenezer  D.  Draper,  who  held  important  patents, 
with  his  brother  George  bought  the  stock  at  par  and  paid  the  debts 
of  the  community,  which  thereafter  existed  only  as  a  religious  society. 

Thus  was  founded  the  Draper  Company,  manufacturers  of  cotton 
machinery,  now  employing  more  than  2500  men.  The  famous  Nor- 
throp loom  made  here  has  largely  supplanted  the  older  type  and 
saves  more  than  50  per  cent  of  the  cost  of  weaving.  After  George 
Draper's  death  the  concern  passed  to  his  sons.  One  of  these,  Eben 
Sumner  Draper  (1858-1913),  was  Governor  of  Massachusetts,  1909-11. 

On  the  site  of  the  Ballou  homestead  is  a  small  park  with  a 
bronze  statue  of  Adin  Ballou.  The  Draper  Memorial  Church, 
the  Town  Hall,  a  gift  of  the  heirs  of  George  Draper,  and  sev- 
eral other  buildings  bear  witness  to  the  interest  which  that 
family  has  taken  in  the  town.  The  Bancroft  Memorial  Li- 
brary was  presented  to  the  town  by  Joseph  B.  Bancroft  as 
a  memorial  to  his  wife.  Near  it  is  the  fountain  to  the  memory 
of  Gen.  W.  F.  Draper.  On  the  high  ridge  between  Milford 
and  Hopedale  is  the  residence  of  Mrs.  E.  L.  Osgood;  there 
are  several  beautiful  estates  of  the  Draper  family  in  the  vicinity. 

From  Milford  Post  Office  the  route  follows  Main  St.,  with 
trolley,  and  at  the  fork  bears  right  with  the  branch  trolley  and 
"Medway"  signs.  At  the  white  house  in  the  fork  bear  left 
through  the  village  of  WEST  MEDWAY  (59.5). 

The  old  village  of  Medway  lies  a  mile  to  the  south  of  this 


496  MILFORD— MEDFIELD 

route.  These  villages  lie  in  the  upper  valley  of  the  Charles 
river.  Medway  is  the  birthplace  of  'Oliver  Optic,'  Wm.  T. 
Adams  (b.  1822),  the  popular  juvenile  writer. 

64.0     MILLIS.     Alt   167  ft.     Pop    (twp)    1399    (1910),   1442    (1915). 

Norfolk  Co.     Inc.  1885. 

Millis  is  another  Charles  River  town.  Among  the  surround- 
ing hills  and  woodlands  are  a  number  of  farms  and  country 
places.  As  yet  it  has  not  been  so  completely  developed  by 
the  all-the-year-round  colony  as  Dover,  Sherborn,  and  Medfield. 
The  industries  here  include  the  Clicquot  Club  Company, 
makers  of  ginger  ale  and  soda  water,  army  and  navy  shoe- 
making,  the  United  Crown  Cork  and  Seal  Company,  the 
American  Felt  Company,  the  Baltimore  Paper  Mills,  and  the 
Charles  La  Croix  Bottling  Works. 

66.0  MEDFIELD.  Alt  188  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3446  (1910),  3648  (1915) 
Inc.  1651.  Mfg.  straw  goods,  felt  hats,  and  brick. 

The  town  has  some  pleasant  elm-shaded  streets.  The  Uni- 
tarian Church  is  a  good  example  of  an  old  New  England  meet- 
ing house.  In  Chenery  Hall  are  the  town  offices,  the  library, 
the  post  office,  and  the  rooms  of  the  Medfield  Historical  So- 
ciety, containing  a  small  collection  of  local  interest.  The  straw 
goods  and  felt  hat  industry  of  the  Edwin  V.  Mitchell  Company 
has  been  in  continuous  existence  since  1801. 

Many  farms  have  been  transformed  into  country  estates 
and  the  town  has  become  something  of  a  social  center.  Here 
are  the  estates  of  Mrs.  J.  DeForest  Danielson,  Pound  Farm; 
Edward  Jewell,  Red  Gate  Farm;  Benjamin  Kimball,  Rest 
Harrow  House;  Prof.  Chas.  M.  Loeffler,  Meadowmere  Farm; 
and  Mrs.  W.  H.  McElwain,  Holiday  Farm. 

Glen  Adams  was  built  in  the  seventeenth  century  by  a 
brother  of  John  Adams,  who  was  shot  on  the  doorstep  by  King 
Philip's  warriors,  according  to  local  tradition,  and  the  house 
was  burned.  Rebuilt  by  the  Adams  family,  it  was  occupied 
by  direct  descendants  until  recent  years  and  is  now  a  part  of 
the  Charles  Inches  estate,  a  mile  southeast  of  the  village. 

Medfield  was  settled  from  Dedham  in  1649.  It  derived  its  name 
from  the  wide  meadows  formed  here  by  the  Charles,  one  of  the  few 
New  England  towns  whose  name  has  a  really  local  significance.  A 
graduate  of  the  first  class  of  Harvard  College  was  minister  of  Medfield 
for  fifty  years  and  in  1676  witnessed  the  burning  of  the  town  by  King 
Philip.  According  to  tradition  two  houses  were  spared,  and  one  of 
these,  the  Peak  house,  is  still  standing.  Its  salvation  was  secured 
through  the  sacrifice  of  a  keg  of  cider  to  the  Indians.  After  the  burn- 
ing of  the  town  the  Indians  withdrew  to  Noon  Hill  to  the  south  and 
celebrated  their  victory  with  the  cider. 

Medfield  was  the  birthplace  of  Hannah  Adams  (1775-1831),  the 
first  American  woman  to  publish  a  book  and  the  first  to  devote  her- 
self to  a  literary  life.  Her  first  work,  "A  View  of  Religious  Opinions," 
was  a  religious  encyclopedia;  in  1805  she  published  an  abridged  his- 


R.  24.     BOSTON,  WELLESLEY,  FRAMINGHAM,  GRAFTON      497 

tory  of  New  England,  which  Jedediah  Morse,  author  of  the  first 
geography  of  the  United  States,  and  father  of  the  inventor  of  the  tele- 
graph, bitterly  fought  as  violating  his  copyright.  She  was  the  first 
person  whose  remains  were  buried  at  Mount  Auburn. 

Lowell  Mason,  born  here  in  1792,  was  the  most  celebrated  teacher 
and  composer  of  church  music  this  country  has  produced,  and  to  him 
is  due  the  introduction  of  music  into  the  common  schools  through- 
out the  country.  He  attended  the  North  District  School,  which  now 
bears  his  name.  A  tablet  has  been  erected  at  his  birthplace  on  North 
St.,  by  his  son,  Dr.  William  Mason  of  New  York  City,  who  also  was  a 
composer  and  pianist  of  some  note. 

At  the  central  square  the  route  turns  left,  skirting  Castle 
Hill  and  following  Center  St.  The  region  of  Dover,  Sherborn, 
Medfield,  and  Millis,  an  idyllic  country  of  wooded  hills  and 
meadows  through  which  the  Charles  river  languidly  winds, 
has  in  the  last  twenty  years  become  one  of  residential  estates 
for  Boston  professional  and  business  men. 

Note.  From  Farm  Street  Station,  near  Castle  Hill,  Farm 
Street  leads  northward  past  the  Pokanoket  Club,  a  rough-and- 
ready  country  club  for  bachelors,  with  100  acres  of  grounds, 
to  Bridge  St.,  which  crosses  the  Charles  river.  On  the  corner 
of  these  streets  on  the  left  before  crossing  the  river  is  the  model 
dairy  farm  of  Dr.  W.  T.  Porter,  the  physiologist,  an  attractive 
piece  of  rolling  grassland  sloping  toward  a  pine  grove  on  the 
banks  of  the  Charles. 

On  the  west  bank  in  Sherborn  in  a  half-wooded  farming 
country  lies  the  beautiful  Farm  Pond  where  there  was  once  an 
English  settlement  and  later  a  colony  from  Dedham,  known 
as  The  Farms.  Within  fifteen  years  this  region  has  passed 
into  the  hands  of  city  owners  who  have  built  up  beautiful 
estates  while  retaining  the  simple  farm  atmosphere.  Between 
the  pond  and  the  river  is  the  estate  of  Dr.  Walter  Channing, 
and  to  the  north  of  Farm  Pond  the  old  Leland  Place  is  now 
the  residence  of  Joseph  Fay.  Here  too  is  the  estate  of  J.  D. 
Clark.  B.  A.  G.  Fuller  and  Henry  M.  Channing  have  built 
modern  dwellings  overlooking  the  Charles  river. 

A  mile  to  the  west  is  the  dignified  old  village  of  Sherborn 
with  wide,  handsome  streets  and  an  attractive  old  meeting 
house.  In  the  northwest  part  of  the  township,  near  the  Fram- 
ingham  border,  the  brick  buildings  of  the  Sherborn  Reforma- 
tory for  Women  make  a  conspicuous  blot  on  the  landscape. 
This  establishment  was  the  outgrowth  of  prison  reform  in 
the  period  following  the  Civil  War;  the  buildings  were  com- 
pleted in  1877.  Clara  Barton,  the  founder  of  the  Red  Cross, 
was  superintendent  here  for  a  time  and  was  succeeded  by 
Ellen  Cheney  Johnson  (1884-99),  whose  name  is  famous  in 
prison  reform.  It  was  largely  her  influence  that  made  Sherborn 
one  of  the  most  progressive  institutions  of  its  kind. 


498  MEDFIELD— NEEDHAM 

Just  beyond  Castle  Hill,  to  the  right  of  Center  St.,  on  a 
hilltop  is  the  Norfolk  Hunt  Club.  The  conditions  for  cross 
country  riding  were  particularly  good  here  and  led  to  the 
establishment  of  this  club,  a  foster-child  of  the  Dedham  Polo 
Club.  It  is  much  frequented  by  the  Boston  riding  set  that 
like  to  follow  the  hounds.  The  hunting  season  lasts  from 
early  September  to  late  November,  when  'pink'  is  a  familiar 
color  in  the  landscape.  On  Farmers'  Day  the  club  enter- 
tains the  farmers  over  whose  land  members  ride. 

70.0  DOVER.  Alt  156  ft.  Pop  (twp)  798  (1910),  999  (1915).  Nor- 
folk Co.  Inc.  1784.  Mfg.  portable  houses. 

The  ridge  of  hills  to  the  left,  named  in  general  Pegan  Hill, 
after  an  Indian  family  once  living  on  the  Natick  side,  has  on 
its  slopes  many  residences.  On  the  right  is  Noanet  Hill. 
Among  the  country  estates  of  Dover  are  those  of  Edward  W. 
Grew  and  Charles  F.  Lyman;  Graystone  Farm,  the  beautiful 
home  of  Arthur  E.  Davis,  Nawn  Farm,  the  residence  of  Rob- 
ert Gorham  Fuller,  and  the  residence  of  Walter  Channing,  Jr. 

Dover  was  a  pioneer  in  the  movement  for  the  preservation 
of  birds,  the  first  town  in  the  United  States  to  appoint  a  bird 
warden  with  a  salary.  The  town  boasts  the  largest  concern  in 
the  country  manufacturing  portable  houses,  with  an  interest- 
ing permanent  outdoor  exhibit  in  connection  with  the  factory. 
On  Glen  St.  a  slab  marks  the  home  of  Hannah  Dexter,  a  cele- 
brated Indian  doctor,  who  met  a  tragic  death  in  1821. 

Dover  was  settled  from  Dedham  early  in  the  seventeenth  century  and 
became  the  Fourth  or  Springfield  Parish  of  that  town.  In  1629  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Higginson  spoke  of  "The  land  at  Charles  River  is  as  fat 
blacke  earth  as  can  be  seen  anywhere,  though  all  the  country  bee,  as 
it  were,  a  thick  wood  for  the  generall." 

From  Dover  the  road  crosses  the  Charles  near  the  Charles 
River  Station  and  bears  left  along  Central  St.,  turning  right 
on  Great  Plain  Ave.,  into 

74.0  NEEDHAM.  Alt  169  ft.  Pop  (twp)  5026  (1910),  6542  (1915). 
Norfolk  Co.  Inc.  1711.  Mfg.  knit  goods  and  paper  boxes. 

This  is  an  attractive  residential  town  with  several  knit  goods 
factories.  At  Needham  Heights  on  Highland  Ave.  is  one  of 
the  factories  of  Wm.  Carter  Company,  manufacturers  of  well- 
known  knit  goods  and  cotton  underwear,  and  another  large 
factory  is  situated  nearby  on  Lake  Rosemary.  The  Cricket 
Club  at  Needham  Heights  is  largely  maintained  by  Mr.  Carter. 

At  Needham  the  route  turns  left  along  the  main  street, 
through  Highlandville  (75.0),  and,  crossing  the  Charles,  follows 
Highland  Ave.  to  Newton  Upper  Falls,  where  it  turns  right,  on 
Boylston  St.,  leading  to  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir  and  Beacon 
St.  or  Commonwealth  Ave.  to  Copley  Square  (86.5). 


R.  25.    BOSTON  to  HARVARD,  and  PRINCETON. 

Returning  via  CLINTON  and  SUDBURY.       102.5  m. 

This  route  passes  through  the  historic  shrines  of  Lexington 
and  Concord  and  an  interesting  historic  country  in  which  lie 
the  select  residential  communities  of  Harvard,  Lancaster,  and 
Princeton,  reaching  its  climax  at  Mt.  Wachusett  (2108  ft). 
Clinton  and  Hudson  are  typical  industrial  towns,  while  Sud- 
bury,  Way  land,  and  Weston  are  becoming  increasingly  popular 
residential  towns  for  Boston  people  of  prominence  and  wealth. 

The  route  as  far  as  Concord  is  the  reverse  of  Route  1 5  (p  430) 
and  is  marked  by  red  bands  on  poles  and  posts.  Leaving 
Boston  by  Commonwealth  Ave.,  cross  the  Charles  river  by 
Harvard  Bridge,  continuing  on  Massachusetts  Ave.  through 
Cambridge  to  ARLINGTON  (7.5 ;p  430),  LEXINGTON  (12.0; 
p  427),  and  CONCORD  (19.0;  p  422). 

From  Monument  Square,  Concord,  turn  left  on  Main  St., 
and  then  along  Elm  St.,  across  the  Assabet  river.  Just  beyond 
the  State  Reformatory  (21.0)  the  right  fork  marked  by  red 
bands  is  Route  15  to  Littleton,  Fitchburg,  and  beyond.  Take 
the  lefthand  road,  an  excellent  State  Highway,  through  to 
Harvard.  The  route  crosses  R.R.  at  West  Acton  (25.0). 

This  was  one  of  the  numerous  small  villages  in  the  township  of 
Acton,  which  was  settled  as  early  as  1656.  Originally  part  of  Concord 
it  was  used  for  "feeding,"  as  the  early  records  say.  In  1668  Captain 
Thomas  Wheeler  was  granted  the  use  of  200  acres  "on  condition  that 
he  should  keep  for  the  inhabitants,  'except  twelve  sabbath  days 
yearly,'  a  herd  of  50  cattle  for  one  shilling  per  head,  to  be  paid,  'one 
third  part  in  wheat,  one  third  part  in  rie  or  pease,  and  the  other  third 
part  in  Indian  corn.'  He  was  to  protect  them  in  a  yard  at  night  from 
the  wild  beasts."  He  built  a  house  with  "a  pair  of  chimneys." 

28.5  BOXBORO.  Alt  240  ft.  Pop  (twp)  317  (1910),  326  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Inc.  1783. 

The  country  between  Concord  and  Harvard  has  been  de- 
scribed as  a  rolling  surface  of  "hollows  and  dimples  and  inex- 
plicable ridges."  Through  a  farming  country  the  route 
ascends  gradually  into  a  hilly  and  more  heavily  wooded  region. 

32.5  HARVARD.  Alt  286  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1034  (1910),  1104  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Inc.  1732.  Mfg.  foundry  and  machine 
shop  products. 

The  shady  main  street  leads  to  a  Common  about  which  there 
are  a  number  of  dignified  old  houses.  That  on  the  southwest 
corner  was  once  the  home  of  John  Atherton,  an  inn-keeper 
here  during  the  early  eighteenth  century.  In  the  hills  about 
the  town  is  a  small  community  of  Boston  professional  men. 

The  community  of  Shakers  to  the  east  of  the  town  dates 
from  the  visit  of  Mother  Ann  Lee  (p  383)  in  1781-83.  The 

(499) 


500  HARVARD— LANCASTER 

townspeople  tried  to  expel  the  Shakers,  and  mobbed  and  beat 
them.  According  to  evidence  of  the  period,  "they  ran  about 
in  the  woods  and  elsewhere  hooting  and  tooting  like  owls." 
Later  Harvard  became  more  tolerant  and  the  Shakers  were 
recognized  as  a  peaceful,  laborious  community.  Today  they 
manufacture  brooms  and  carry  on  a  trade  in  herbs  and  dairy 
produce.  They  are  affiliated  with  the  community  at  Shirley. 

In  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century  adventurous  white  fur- 
traders  came  here  to  trade  with  the  Indians  of  the  Nashua  valley. 
Soon  a  settlement  grew  up  which  was  named  in  honor  of  Harvard 
University  and  its  founder.  In  1658  a  common  thoroughfare  was 
established  between  Groton  and  Lancaster,  which  passed  through  the 
town.  From  that  time  on  the  town  was  a  prosperous  community  in 
the  midst  of  a  farming  region. 

From  Harvard  the  route  turns  south  through  the  long  village 
street  of  Still  River.  To  the  east  there  are  occasional  glimpses 
of  Bare  Hill  Pond,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  deep  set  in  the 
hills,  with  irregular  shores  and  wooded  islands. 

Note.  The  road  to  the  south  commands  a  view  over  the 
broad  valley  of  the  Nashua  river  and  its  fertile  lowlands,  with 
lovely  views  of  Mt.  Wachusett  in  the  distance.  It  crosses  the 
valley  of  the  Nashua  river,  which  flows  out  of  the  great  Wa- 
chusett Reservoir  at  Clinton  through  Lancaster,  Groton,  and 
Pepperell,  finally  emptying  into  the  Merrimack  at  Nashua, 
N.H.  It  is  an  idyllic  stream  flowing  for  a  good  part  of  its 
course  through  grassy  meadows  and  overshadowed  by  great 
trees, — as  Whittier  wrote:  "through  the  calm  repose  of  cult- 
ured vales  and  fringing  woods  the  gentle  Nashua  flows."  This 
valley  was  the  home  of  the  Nashaway  Indians,  Nashaway 
meaning  "place  between"  or  "in  the  middle."  This  road 
joins  the  main  route  at  South  Lancaster. 

The  main  route,  turning  west  from  Still  River,  crosses  R.R. 
near  the  Nashua  river  and  bearing  left  continues  to  Lancaster. 
Just  before  reaching  Lancaster  it  crosses  Route  12  (p  376); 
from  here  it  is  but  half  a  mile  to  the  Beaman  Oak,  the  largest 
in  Massachusetts  (p  421).  On  the  road  to  Lancaster  near 
Pine  Hill,  midway  between  the  Still  River  and  the  Lancaster 
Center  Stations,  is  the  old  Burbank  estate,  the  home  of  the 
Rev.  Aaron  Burbank,  a  Baptist  minister.  His  son,  Luther  Bur- 
bank,  'the  wizard  of  plant  life,'  was  born  and  brought  up  here. 

38.0    LANCASTER.     Alt  310  ft.     Pop  (twp)  2464  (1910),  2585  (1915). 

Worcester    Co.     Settled    1650.     Indian    name    Nashawog. 

Mfg.  cotton  goods,  furniture,  grease  and  tallow,  fullers'  earth. 

Lancaster  is  a  beautiful  old  village  noted  for  its  magnificent 

trees.     There  is  a  fine  village  Green  shaded  by  handsome  elms. 

Facing  it  is  the  Fifth  Meeting  House,  with  a  beautiful  cupola 


R.   25.     BOSTON  TO   HARVARD,  AND  PRINCETON  501 

designed  by  Bulfinch,  and  also  the  Library,  the  High  School, 
and  the  new  Town  Hall,  built  in  an  appropriate  Colonial  style. 
The  Rev.  Nathaniel  Thayer  was  pastor  of  the  church  from 
1792  to  1840.  His  four  grandsons,  John  E.,  Bayard,  Nathaniel, 
and  Eugene  V.  R.  Thayer,  built  fine  estates  here  which  cover 


Courtesy  of  Wallace  Nutting 
THE   FIFTH    MEETING   HOUSE,    LANCASTER,    DESIGNED   BY    BULFINCH 

the  eastern  slopes  of  George  Hill  in  South  Lancaster.  Bayard 
Thayer  formerly  had  a  game  preserve  here  of  several  thousand 
acres.  He  introduced  the  English  pheasant  into  these  parts. 
Chief  of  Lancaster's  trees  was  the  Great  Elm,  25  feet  in 
girth  with  a  spread  of  115  feet,  which  unfortunately  was  blown 
down  a  few  years  ago.  The  Carter  Oak,  one  of  the  largest  red 
oaks  in  the  State,  is  16  feet  in  circumference  five  feet  from  the 
ground.  It  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  'Back  Road,'  north 
of  the  greenhouses  of  Nathaniel  Thayer.  The  Beaman  Oak 


502  LANCASTER— PRINCETON 

is  near  Lanes  Crossing  in  North  Village.  With  a  circumfer- 
ence of  29  feet,  a  height  of  78,  and  a  spread  of  75  it  is  probably 
the  largest  white  oak  in  Massachusetts.  There  is  no  doubt 
it  was  ancient  when  Gamaliel  Beaman  settled  here  in  1659. 

The  territory  of  this  town  was  purchased  of  the  Indian  Sachem 
Sholan  in  1643.  The  first  settler  in  this  region  was  one  John  Prescott, 
who  erected  the  first  grist  mill  west  of  Watertown  (p  149).  His  grave 
in  the  "Indian  Burying  Ground"  is  marked  by  a  large  flat  slab  of 
stone,  so  placed  to  guard  against  its  being  disturbed  by  wolves.  A 
more  modern  tablet  bears  an  inscription  by  the  late  Senator  Hoar. 
The  community  prospered  until  the  outbreak  of  King  Philip's  War. 
In  the  dead  of  winter,  1676,  King  Philip  with  1500  warriors  attacked 
the  town  and  set  fire  to  the  garrison  house  of  the  Rev.  Joseph  Rowland- 
son,  in  which  forty-two  of  the  settlers  had  sought  refuge.  The  site 
of  this  house  on  the  grounds  of  Nathaniel  Thayer  is  marked  by  a  lone 
pine.  Only  one  man  escaped.  His  wife,  Mary  Rowlandson,  together 
with  her  children,  was  carried  away  captive.  Their  long  sufferings 
on  this  occasion  are  graphically  told  by  Mrs.  Rowlandson  in  her 
"Removes."  Over  thirty  reprints  attest  the  popular  interest  in  her 
story.  After  King  Philip's  War  the  town  was  rebuilt  and  became 
the  most  important  settlement  of  the  region  until  the  growth  of  indus- 
trial Clinton  overshadowed  it. 

The  road  southward  crosses  the  Nashua  river  by  the  Center 
Bridge,  and  passes  through  the  little  village  of  SOUTH  LAN- 
CASTER (39.0).  Here  is  the  Thayer  Museum  with  one  of  the 
finest  private  collections  of  birds  in  the  country.  (Open  Mon., 
Wed.,  and  Sat.)  The  north  branch  of  the  Nashua  furnishes 
power  for  the  Ponakin  Mills,  which  manufacture  cotton  yarns. 

The  route,  after  crossing  R.R.,  circles  the  northern  slope  of 
Redstone  Hill  (660  ft),  so  called  from  the  color  of  the  rocks, 
which  contain  much  iron.  In  1755,  in  the  search  for  precious 
metals,  a  shaft  was  sunk  to  a  depth  of  150  feet.  Route  12, 
from  Worcester  northward,  is  crossed  at 

43.0     STERLING  (p  376). 

Between  Sterling  and  Princeton  an  English  potter  by  the 
name  of  Walley  has  taken  an  abandoned  mill  and  established 
an  art  pottery  in  which  he  does  all  the  work  himself.  Visitors 
may  usually  see  the  various  processes  of  modeling,  firing,  etc. 

From  Sterling  the  road  dips  down  into  the  valley  of  Still 
Water  River  and  then  begins  a  steady  climb,  with  beautiful 
views  of  Little  Wachusett  and  Wachusett  Mountain  ahead, 
passing  the  golf  links  and  entering 

50.5     PRINCETON.     Alt  957  ft.     Pop  (twp)  818  (1910),  800  (1915). 

Worcester  Co.     Inc.  1759.     Mfg.  furniture  and  leather. 

Princeton  has  a  commanding  situation  on  a  hilltop,  near 

Mt.  Wachusett.     It  is  noted  for  cool,  dry  air  and  splendid 

views.     A  generation  or  so  ago  it  had  some  reputation  as  a 

resort,  but  it  is  now  a  quiet  village  frequented  by  a  select 


R.  25.     BOSTON  TO  HARVARD,  AND  PRINCETON  503 

summer  colony.  There  are  several  attractive  estates  in  the 
neighborhood.  On  the  eastern  side  of  the  main  street  is  the  old 
Boylston  place.  There  is  a  typical  old  New  England  meeting 
house.  Near  it  is  Dr.  E.  S.  Lewis's  Nauheim  Institution  for 
hydropathic  treatment.  Near  the  village  is  the  summer  home 
of  the  Hon.  Charles  G.  Washburn  of  Worcester.  On  the  right 
is  the  new  residence  of  Captain  Hamilton  Perkins  of  Boston. 
On  a  wooded  hill  to  the  northwest  is  the  estate  of  Thomas 
Allen  of  Boston,  with  a  Japanese  garden. 

The  village  was  founded  about  1750  and  named  in  honor  of  the 
Rev.  Thomas  Prince,  the  famous  old  pastor  of  the  Old  South  Church 
in  Boston,  and  founder  of  the  Prince  Library.  It  was  the  birthplace 
of  Leonard  Woods,  the  once  wellknown  theologian. 

MX.  WACHUSETT  (2108  ft),  to  the  north,  is  an  isolated 
monadnock.  A  good  auto  road  and  several  paths  lead  to  the 


PRINCETON    FROM    JONES    HILL,    LOOKING    TOWARD     WACHUSETT 

top,  and  a  hotel,  the  Summit  House,  is  a  rendezvous  for  motor- 
ists and  pedestrians.  The  wonderful  View  embraces  300  vil- 
lages and  parts  of  six  States.  To  the1  north  are  Mts.  Monad- 
nock  and  Sunapee,  and,  occasionally,  Mt.  Washington  is  seen, 
140  miles  distant.  The  mountain  itself  is  easily  seen  from 
vessels  off  the  Atlantic  coast.  Seven  miles  to  the  north  is 
Fitchburg,  and  to  the  south  is  Worcester. 

Near  the  foot  of  Wachusett  on  the  east  side  of  Wachusett 
Lake  is  a  broad  flat  rock  about  twenty  feet  high  with  the  fol- 
lowing inscription:  "Upon  this  rock  May  2,  1676,  was  made 
the  agreement  between  the  Indians  and  John  Hoar  of  Con- 
cord for  the  ransom  of  Mrs.  Mary  Rowlandson  of  Lancaster. 
King  Philip  was  with  the  Indians  but  refused  his  consent." 
From  this  circumstance  the  boulder  is  commonly  known  as 
Redemption  Rock. 

From  Princeton  there  are  various  routes  to  Boston.     One 


504  .  PRINCETON— SUDBURY 

is  via  Holden  and  Route  19  (p  447)  to  Worcester  (16.0),  and 
thence  by  Route  i  to  Boston  (60.0).  Another  somewhat 
longer  route  to  Worcester  leads  through  Sterling,  Clinton,  and 
Boylston.  The  return  to  Boston  via  Fitchburg  and  Route  15 
(p  421)  retraces  this  route  from  Concord. 

The  most  attractive  route  is  via  Sterling,  Clinton,  Bolton, 
Hudson,  Sudbury,  and  Wayland.  For  this  route  return  to 
Sterling  (58.5)  over  the  same  road  around  Redstone  Hill,  turn- 
ing right  at  the  fork  (60.5)  and  running  straight  on  into 

63.5  CLINTON.  Alt  214  ft.  Pop  (twp)  13,075  (1910),  13,192  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Settled  1653.  Mfg.  carpets,  cotton  goods, 
foundry  and  machine  shop  products,  wire  cloth,  and  woolens. 

Clinton,  noted  for  its  printed  goods,  carpets,  and  wire  work, 
is  a  thriving  manufacturing  town  on  the  Nashua  just  at  the 
base  of  the  great  Wachusett  Dam,  971  ft  long  and  248  ft  high, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $2,500,000.  The  Wachusett  Reservoir 
supplies  Boston  and  eighteen  other  cities  and  towns  in  the 
Metropolitan  Water  District.  Below  the  dam  a  park,  given 
by  the  Bigelow  family,  has  been  laid  out  about  the  spot  where 
the  Nashua  river  rushes  forth. 

Clinton  was  originally  a  part  of  Lancaster,  and  here  in  1653  John 
Prescott,  the  pioneer  settler  of  the  region,  built  a  grist  mill.  From 
early  times  the  village  was  an  industrial  center.  One  of  the  first 
cotton  mills  in  the  country  was  erected  here  in  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury. In  1812,  Poignand,  a  Frenchman,  and  Plant  opened  mills  on 
the  site  of  Prescott's  old  grist  mill.  Here  were  manufactured  ging- 
hams and  sheetings,  and  the  community  of  "Factory  Village,"  as  it 
was  called,  was  the  embryo  Clinton.  These  mills  ended  with  the 
death  of  Poignand  in  1835,  but  in  1842  the  Bigelows  founded  the 
Lancaster  Mills,  the  foundation  of  the  town's  present  prosperity. 
Erastus  Brigham  Bigelow,  one  of  the  incorporators  of  the  Massachu- 
setts Institute  of  Technology,  is  usually  considered  to  be  the  father 
of  Clinton  industries  on  account  of  his  inventions  of  new  processes 
in  the  manufacture  of  figured  fabrics  and  of  carpets.  In  1851  he 
perfected  his  loom  for  the  weaving  of  Brussels  and  Wilton  carpets, 
the  greatest  of  his  inventions,  and  established  the  Bigelow  Carpet 
Mills  here.  He  also  invented  a  loom  for  weaving  of  wire  cloth.  He 
was  ably  seconded  by  the  business  ability  of  his  brother,  Horatio  N. 
Bigelow.  For  a  time  Clinton  probably  led  the  country  in  the  manu- 
facture of  ginghams,  and  its  carpets  vied  with  those  of  Axminster. 

In  1905  the  value  of  the  manufactures  was  nearly  $6,000,000,  nine 
tenths  of  which  represented  cotton  goods,  carpets,  and  wire  work. 
The  great  Lancaster  Mills  still  manufacture  ginghams  and  other 
dress  goods,  having  about  106,000  spindles  and  4400  looms,  employing 
2000  hands.  Other  wellknown  concerns  are  the  Bigelow-Hartford 
Company,  the  Clinton  Wire  Cloth  Company,  the  Barnedale  mill,  the 
Bellevue  mill,  and  the  Clinton  Worsted  Company.  The  Burton 
Worsted  Company  occupies  the  site  of  the  Prescott  grist  mill  and  the 
old  Poignand  cotton  mill. 

Passing  straight  through  Clinton,  cross  R.R.  at  Bolton 
Station,  turning  right,  then  left,  and  continuing  to 


R.   25.     BOSTON  TO  HARVARD,  AND  PRINCETON  505 

68.0  BOLTON.  Alt  384  ft.  Pop  (twp)  764  (1910),  768  (1915). 
Worcester  Co.  Inc.  1738. 

Bolton  is  a  dignified,  quiet  old  town  in  the  midst  of  idyllic 
country.  On  the  broad  main  street  lined  with  fine  trees  there 
are  several  old  houses.  The  road  to  the  right  by  the  Girls' 
Reform  School  leads  by  the  most  interesting  of  these,  the 
Wilder  mansion.  Lafayette  on  his  visit  to  America  in  1835 
spent  a  night  in  this  house  as  the  guest  of  Mr.  Wilder,  from 
there  going  on  to  Lancaster  and  Worcester. 

A  mile  and  a  half  beyond  Bolton  turn  right  at  fork,  following 
"Hudson"  sign.  The  left  fork  is  Route  15  n  (p  421),  to  Boston 
via  Stow,  Maynard,  and  Waltham.  Cross  R.R.  and  follow 
Lincoln  St.  into 

72.0  HUDSON.  Alt  235  ft.  Pop  (twp)  6743  (1910),  6758  (1915); 
one  third  foreign-born,  chiefly  Albanians  and  Poles.  Mid- 
dlesex Co.  Inc.  1866.  Mfg.  rubber  goods,  shoes,  machin- 
ery, boxes,  woolens  and  worsted. 

Hudson  is  one  of  the  industrial  towns  of  Massachusetts  of 
the  past  generation.  It  is  one  of  the  smaller  of  the  Massachu- 
setts shoe  towns,  a  wide-awake  little  community  on  the 
Assabet  river,  from  which  it  obtains  some  waterpower.  The 
Apsley  Rubber  Company  has  the  largest  plant  here. 
The  road  straight  ahead,  following  R.R.  for  a  mile,  leads  to 

80.5  SUDBURY.  Alt  201  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1120  (1910),  1206  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1638. 

Sudbury  is  a  quiet  old  historic  town  in  the  midst  of  a  good 
farming  country.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  famous  "Wayside 
Inn"  and  a  number  of  other  landmarks  (p  144). 

The  Sudbury  river,  which  takes  its  name  from  this  town, 
flows  from  the  ponds  of  Framingham  through  Wayland  and 
Sudbury  to  Concord,  where  it  joins  with  the  Assabet,  forming 
the  Concord  river,  which  in  turn  empties  into  the  Merrimack. 
Some  of  the  most  picturesque  bits  of  country  about  Boston 
are  in  the  Sudbury  marshes. 

Note.  From  East  Sudbury  (81.5)  the  righthand  road  leads 
south  through  Saxonville  (p  490)  to  Framingham  (88.5), 
where  it  connects  with  Routes  3  (p  220)  and  24  (p  490). 

The  route  runs  straight  through  the  town  to  Wayland  (83.5), 
where  it  joins  Route  i  (p  146),  continuing  via  Weston,  Wal- 
tham, Belmont,  and  Arlington  to  Boston  (102.5). 


R.  26.   BOSTON  to  GROTON  and  ASHBY.   60.5  m. 
Via  BEDFORD,  WESTFORD,  and  TOWNSEND. 

This  route  forms  a  pleasant  alternate  to  Routes  15  or  33, 
leading  through  a  rolling  farm  country  and  connecting  with 
Route  38  for  the  Merrimack  valley,  or  continuing  through 
Groton  to  Peterboro  or  Keene. 

It  follows  Route  15  (p  430),  reversed,  marked  by  red  bands  on 
poles  and  posts,  through  ARLINGTON  (7.5),  and  at  LEXINGTON 
(12.0),  beyond  the  Common,  leads  diagonally  right,  with  trol- 
ley, to  North  Lexington  (13.0),  and  by  a  good  State  Road  to 

17.0     BEDFORD.     Alt  120  ft.     Pop  (twp)  1231  (1910),  1365  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.     Inc.  1729. 

At  the  Green  are  the  Parish  Church  (1816),  with  the  old 
Fitch  clock  of  1812  inside,  and  the  plainly  fashioned  Town 
Hall,  where  is  preserved  the  famous  Bedford  Flag,  carried  by 
the  Bedford  minute  men  at  Concord.  The  tree-lined  main 
street  is  called  the  Great  Road  because  in  earlier  days  it  was 
the  main  road  to  Boston  and  the  town  was  a  station  on 
one  of  the  great  coach  lines  to  New  Hampshire.  On  one  side 
of  it  stands  the  old  Fitch  Tavern,  the  rallying  point  of  the 
Bedford  minute  men  on  the  morning  of  the  Concord  Fight. 
The  famous  old  tavern,  at  least  180  years  old,  has  an  inter- 
esting interior.  The  Parson  Stearns  house,  to  the  east,  a 
century  and  a  quarter  old,  was  in  its  day  the  stateliest  dwelling 
in  the  town.  The  'Squire'  Stearns  house,  to  the  west,  shaded 
by  the  Fitch  elm,  is  a  'brick  end'  mansion  with  four  side 
chimneys  and  an  old  door  with  interesting  hinges.  On  the 
old  road  to  Billerica  is  the  ancient  Bacon  homestead,  built 
in  the  seventeenth  century,  probably  the  oldest  in  town. 
The  Job  Lane  house  on  the  North  Road,  of  much  the  same  age, 
contains  curious  cupboards  and  secret  closets. 

In  1638  the  General  Court  made  grants  here  to  Governor  John  Win- 
throp  and  Deputy-governor  Dudley.  In  his  Journal,  VVinthrop  tells 
how  the  two  quarreled  over  their  lands  and  as  they  journeyed  down 
the  Concord  river  how  they  finally  made  up  at  "The  Two  Brothers" 
— two  boulders  on  the  riverbank  which  marked  the  division  of  their 
lands  and  remain  historic  landmarks. 

Bedford  Springs,  a  few  miles  north  of  Bedford,  lies  off  the 
route.  It  was  formerly  of  some  reputation  as  a  resort.  The 
Hayden  family  here  made  a  fortune  in  patent  medicines. 

26.0     CARLISLE.     Alt  200  ft.     Pop    (twp)   551    (1910),  490   (1915). 

Middlesex  Co.     Inc.  1780. 

This  is  a  little  farming  town,  named  for  Carlisle,  Scotland. 
The  Carlisle  Pines  is  a  twenty-acre  reservation  of  the  Appa- 

(506) 


R.  26.     BOSTON  TO  GROTON  AND  ASHBY  507 

lachian  Mountain  Club,  formed  to  preserve  the  only  primeval 
white  pines  in  the  vicinity  of  Boston. 

At  the  village  center  turn  left  upgrade.  Beyond  Carlisle 
Station  and  Bear  Hill,  on  the  right,  the  road  reaches  (31.0) 
the  yellow-marked  Route  38  (p  701),  from  Newburyport  and 
Lowell  to  Littleton.  By  following  this  route  connections  are 
made  for  return  routes  to  Boston  via  Lowell  or  via  Concord. 

Continuing  westward  the  road  leads  through  the  hill  town 
of  Westford  (32.5)  to 

41.5  GROTON.  Alt  300  ft.  Pop  2155  (1910),  2333  (1915).  Mid- 
dlesex Co.  Settled  1655.  Indian  name  Petapawag. 

This  fine  old  town  is  beautifully  situated,  overlooking  the 
valley  of  the  Nashua  river  and  the  hills  beyond.  On  its  main 
street  are  some  fine  old  houses.  Lawrence  Academy  dates 
from  1792.  The  old  Dana  and  Bazar  houses  on  either  side 
of  the  main  building  are  now  used  as  residences  for  the  boys. 
The  Groton  Inn  is  a  comfortable  old  hostelry  dating  from  pre- 
Revolutionary  times  when  Groton  was  an  important  posting 
place  on  one  of  the  main  highways  between  Boston  and  Canada. 
The  Groton  School,  established  by  the  Rev.  Endicott  Peabody 
in  1884,  lies  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  west.  It  has  the  care- 
fully fostered  reputation  of  being  the  most  aristocratic  school 
in  America.  The  Chapel,  the  gift  of  W.  Amory  Gardner,  a 
master  in  the  school,  is  a  notable  example  of  late  decorated 
Gothic  style.  Its  beautiful  tower  is  a  landmark  for  miles. 

Continuing  along  the  main  street,  the  road  leads  through 
the  hamlet  of  Townsend  Harbor  (47.5)  and  parallels  R.R.  to 

49.5  TOWNSEND.  Alt  300ft.  Pop  (twp)  1761  (1910),  1812  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Inc.  1732.  Mfg.  barrels,  brooms,  and  shoe 
stock. 

This  neat,  pretty  village  is  attractively  placed  on  the  mead- 
ows of  the  Squannacook  river  in  a  hilly  farming  country.  It 
was  named  for  Viscount  Townshend,  the  English  statesman. 

Continuing  westward,  across  the  Squannacook  the  route 
forks  left  through  West  Townsend  (51.0)  and  its  crossroads, 
bearing  left  at  all  forks  over  the  northern  slope  of  Fort  Hill. 
At  the  end  of  the  road  turn  right,  to  ASHBY  (60.5),  joining 
Route  12  (p  377).  The  left  fork,  two  miles  beyond  Ashby, 
leads  to  ASHBUKNHAM  (67.5),  connecting  with  Route  33. 


R.  27.     BOSTON   to   LOWELL.     26.0  m. 
Via  BURLINGTON  and  BILLERICA. 

This  route,  a  pleasant  alternate  to  Route  34,  follows  Route 
J5  (P  43°) >  reversed,  as  far  as  Arlington  Center  (7.0),  where  it 
turns  right,  on  Mystic  St.,  marked  with  blue  bands  on  poles 
and  posts.  It  runs  along  the  shore  of  Mystic  Lakes  (p  602) 
and  crossing  Church  St.  continues  straight  up  Cambridge  St., 
leaving  the  center  of  Winchester  a  mile  to  the  right.  On  the 
left  is  the  exotic  mansion  of  Oren  Cheney  Sanborn  of  the  Chase 
&  Sanborn  Coffee  firm.  Behind  it  rise  Andrews  Hill  and  Pisgah 
Mountain,  and  further  back  Zion  Hill  (400  ft).  At  the  fork 
(10.0)  the  main  route  leads  left,  leaving  the  blue  route,  through 
an  unspoiled  bit  of  beautiful  country.  The  blue-marked  boule- 
vard, forking  right,  leads  past  Horn  Pond  to  North  Woburn 
and  Route  34  (p  603). 

14.0  BURLINGTON.  Alt  220  ft.  Pop  (twp)  591  (1910),  751  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1641. 

The  Ipswich  river  has  its  source  in  the  hills  about  here. 
Two  miles  beyond  the  route  crosses  the  headwaters  of  the 
Shawsheen,  a  stream  beloved  by  canoeists,  to 

19.5  BILLERICA.  Alt  126  ft.  Pop  (twp)  27 S9  (1910),  3246  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1655.  Indian  name  Shawshine. 
Mfg.  woolens,  fertilizer,  and  chemicals. 

Billerica,  the  ancient  'Billerickey,'  is  a  fine  old  town  which 
with  the  passing  years  has  acquired  an  air  of  dignity.  The 
broad  main  street  is  lined  with  beautiful  elms. 

The  old  Unitarian  Church  dates  from  1797.  Interesting 
old  houses  are  the  Manning  Manse  (1696),  still  the  property 
of  the  Mannings,  a  garrison  house  and  tavern  in  pioneer  days, 
Bennet  Hall  (1800),  the  residence  of  the  Hon.  Joshua  Holden, 
Hillhurst  (1811),  the  old  Stearns  house,  and  the  Dr.  Bowers 
homestead  (1804).  The  Bowman  house  on  Lexington  Road 
was  a  famous  hostelry  in  the  old  days,  as  was  the  Pollard 
Tavern  (1682)  in  the  village.  The  Boston  &  Maine  R.R.  has 
recently  erected  extensive  repair  shops  here,  which  has  resulted 
in  real  estate  development  and  a  workingmen's  colony. 

The  country  about  Billerica,  watered  by  the  Concord  and 
the  Shawsheen  rivers,  is  most  attractive.  In  the  vicinity  are 
the  ruins  of  an  aqueduct  over  the  old  Middlesex  Canal  (p  603), 
long  since  fallen  into  disuse. 

The  State  Highway  continues  through  a  corner  of  the  town 
of  North  Billerica,  entering  Talbot  Ave.,  and  joining  Routes 
34,  to  the  White  Mountains,  and  38  at 

26.0    LOWELL  (R.  34). 

(508) 


R.  28.     BOSTON  to  HAVERHILL.     36.0  m. 

Via  READING  and  ANDOVER. 

Leave  Boston  by  way  of  Commonwealth  Ave.  and  Harvard 
Bridge  to  Central  Square,  Cambridge.  Turn  right  along 
Prospect  St.  and  Webster  Ave.,  and  left  over  R.R.  through 
Union  Square.  Bear  right  on  Walnut  St.,  over  Central  Hill 
and  diagonally  across  Broadway,  leaving  Broadway  Park  on 
the  right,  into  the  Fellsway. 

4.0  SOMERVILLE.  Pop  77,236  (1910),  86,854  (1915).  Middlesex 
Co.  Inc.  1842.  Mfg.  furniture,  jewelry,  glass,  candy;  meat- 
packing, bleaching,  and  dyeing. 

Somerville,  a  populous  suburban  municipality,  is  rich  in 
memories  of  the  Revolution  and  many  old  landmarks  survive. 
It  is  the  home  of  a  number  of  industries,  including  the  North 
Packing  and  Provision  Co.  and  the  Union  Glass  Co. 

The  city  buildings  and  the  Public  Library  are  on  Central 
Hill  beside  the  park  which  occupies  the  highest  point.  The 
miniature  fortress  near  the  middle  of  the  park  marks  the 
redoubt  of  the  fortifications  of  1775,  which  were  connected 
with  the  citadel  on  Prospect  Hill  by  a  rampart  and  a  ditch. 
On  Sycamore  St.,  the  second  above  Highland  Ave.,  on  the 
right  beyond  the  City  Hall,  extending  to  Winter  Hill,  is  the 
old  John  Tufts  farmhouse,  the  headquarters  of  General  Charles 
Lee,  commanding  the  left  wing  of  the  army  during  the  invest- 
ment of  Boston,  after  his  removal  from  the  more  sumptuous 
but  more  remote  Royall  House  in  Medford  (p  600). 

The  Old  Powder  House,  in  Nathan  Tufts  Park,  can  be 
reached  from  Davis  Square  via  College  Ave.  This  curious 
beehive  structure,  situated  in  the  "Cow  Commons"  of 
Charlestown,  was  erected  before  1710  and  was  originally  a 
thriving  grist  mill. 

In  1747  it  was  purchased  by  the  province  and  from  that  time  until 
1830  it  was  the  principal  storehouse  for  powder  in  the  vicinity  of 
Boston.  The  seizure  of  its  store  of  powder  by  Gage's  soldiers,  Sept.  6, 
1774,  was  the  first  openly  hostile  act  of  the  Revolution  by  the  British. 

For  nearly  two  centuries  the  region  was  an  unimportant  outlying 
district  of  Charlestown,  the  site  of  the  Ten  Hills  Farm  of  Governor 
Winthrop.  In  1631  at  the  Mystic  river,  not  far  from  the  present 
Wellington  Bridge,  was  launched  the  bark  "The  Blessing  of  the  Bay," 
the  first  ship  built  in  the  colony.  Prospect  and  Winter  hills  were 
fortified  by  the  Americans  at  the  beginning  of  the  Revolution.  Pros- 
pect Hill  was  the  headquarters  of  Putnam  after  the  retreat  from 
Breeds  Hill  and  here  was  built  the  "Citadel,"  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant parts  of  the  American  investments,  with  Nathaniel  Green  in 
charge.  The  Union  flag  of  the  'Confederated  Colonies  was  first  hoisted 
here.  Somerville  was  separated  from  Charlestown  in  1842  and  became 
a  city  thirty  years  later. 

From  Somerville  the  road  crosses  the  Mystic  river  by  Well- 
ington Bridge.  Just  beyond  to  the  right  is  the  Revere  Beach 

(S°Q) 


510  SOMERVILLE— ANDOVER 

Parkway,  followed  by  Route  36.  The  main  route  follows 
the  blue  markers  on  poles  and  posts  straight  on,  forking  left 
(6.8),  away  from  the  Maiden  boulevard,  along  Fellsway  West 
and  curving  right  (7.6)  at  Medford  (p  600),  along  boulevard 
with  trolley.  To  the  left  at  this  point  is  Route  34.  Passing 
through  Middlesex  Fells  Reservation  (p  480)  the  route  enters 

11.5  STONEHAM.  Alt  147  ft.  Pop  7090  (1910),  7489  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Inc.  1725.  Mfg.  leather,  shoes,  paper  boxes, 
patent  medicines. 

Stoneham,  a  part  of  the  Lynn  shoe-belt,  is  a  shoe  and  leather 
town,  specializing  in  children's  shoes. 

The  route  marked  by  blue  bands  on  poles  through  the  Fells, 
Stoneham,  Reading,  etc.,  practically  follows  the  old  Andover 
Turnpike,  which  in  the  manner  of  turnpikes  ran  in  a  nearly 
straight  line.  Right,  on  Franklin  St.,  Route  21  (p  480)  leads 
to  Saugus  and  Lynn.  Half  a  mile  further  on,  Route  29  (p 
514)  bears  right  on  Elm  St.,  to  Wakefield  and  Topsfield. 

15.0  READING.  Alt  107  ft.  Pop  5818  (1910),  6805  (1915).  Mid- 
dlesex Co.  Inc.  1644.  Mfg.  shoes,  rubber  goods,  brushes, 
and  organ  pipes. 

Reading  is  a  pleasant  old  town  with  important  manufac- 
tures. The  Old  South  Church  is  a  good  example  of  a  typical 
New  England  meeting  house. 

Continuing  with  the  blue  markers,  near  West  Village  (17.0) 
the  road  crosses  the  Ipswich  river.  Martin's  Pond  (19.0) 
and  Foster's  Pond  lie  to  the  left. 

24.0  ANDOVER.  Alt  92  ft.  Pop  (twp)  7301  (1910),  7978  (1915). 
Essex  Co.  Settled  1644.  Indian  name  Cochichawick. 

Andover  is  a  fine  old  town  in  a  delightful  situation  amid 
the  green  hills  of  the  Shawsheen  valley.  Its  chief  glory  lies 
in  the  famous  schools  which  are  located  on  Andover  Hill,  a 
mile  south  of  the  center  of  the  town,  but  there  are  also  some 
Colonial  mansions  about  which  linger  literary  associations. 

Upon  entering  Andover  the  buildings  of  Phillips  Academy 
and  the  former  site  of  the  Andover  Theological  School  on 
Seminary  Hill  lie  on  both  sides  of  the  road  about  a  mile  south 
of  the  center  of  the  village.  On  the  right  is  the  gymnasium, 
and  behind  it,  the  old  Brick  Academy,  now  used  as  a  dining  hall, 
and  further  on,  Brothers'  Field,  the  scene  of  athletic  sports. 
Facing  the  broad  campus  to  the  east  are  the  old  brick  build- 
ings of  the  Theological  Seminary,  occupied,  since  its  removal 
to  Cambridge  in  1908,  by  the  Academy.  In  the  center  is 
Pearson  Hall,  used  for  recitations,  flanked  by  Phillips  and 
Bartlet  Halls.  On  the  lefthand  side  of  the  road  is  a  long  line 
of  dormitories  and  faculty  houses.  On  the  corner  of  Phillips 


R.  28.     BOSTON  TO  HAVERHILL  511 

St.  is  the  Archeology  Building  with  a  museum,  and  nearby,  the 
recently  erected  Peabody  House,  used  by  the  students  for 
social  purposes.  Opposite  the  Stone  Chapel,  which  stands 
on  the  north  side  of  the  campus,  is  the  Phillips  Inn,  formerly 
the  home  of  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe,  who  here  wrote  her  second 
great  novel,  "Dred,"  in  1852.  Mrs.  Stowe  is  buried  in  the 
private  cemetery  of  the  Trustees  of  Phillips  Academy.  The 
old  Andover  home  of  Elizabeth  Stuart  Phelps  is  a  large  white 
Colonial  mansion  set  well  back  from  the  street  on  the  west 
side,  opposite  the  Seminary  Row.  Here  she  lived  with  her 
father,  Professor  Austin  Phelps,  through  her  girlhood. 

At  147  Main  St.  S.  F.  Smith  wrote  the  patriotic  hymn 
"America,"  while  a  student  in  Andover  Theological  Seminary. 
Just  beyond  the  Academy  grounds,  School  Street  to  the  left 
leads  to  the  grounds  of  Abbot  Academy,  tfye  first  girls'  school 
incorporated  in  America,  1829.  The  main  buildings  are 
grouped  about  a  circular  green.  Its  alumnae  include  Elizabeth 
Stuart  Phelps,  Octave  Thanet,  and  Kate  Douglas  Wiggin. 

The  land  here  was  purchased  by  the  Rev.  John  Woodbridge  of  an 
Indian  sagamore  for  six  pounds  and  a  coat  in  1643.  It  was  settled 
in  1644  by  men  who  came  up  the  Merrimack  river  from  Rowley. 
At  that  time  it  was  called  "Cochichawicke  by  Shawshin."  Among 
the  pioneer  families  were  the  Bradstreets  and  the  Phillipses.  Simon 
Bradstreet,  'the  Father  of  Andover,'  built  the  first  grist  mill.  The 
town  suffered  from  several  Indian  attacks,  the  worst  of  which  was 
in  March,  1698,  when  Assacumbuit  with  a  band  of  forty  Indians  burned 
two  dwelling  houses  and  massacred  a  number  of  inhabitants.  In  1692 
more  than  fifty  witchcraft  accusations  were  brought  against  towns- 
people; three,  duly  tried,  were  hanged.  Washington  came  to  Andover 
during  the  tour  of  1789.  He  writes  in  his  diary  for  November  5th: 
".  .  .  came  to  Abbot's  Tavern  where  we  breakfasted  and  met  with 
much  attention  from  Mr.  Phillips,  President  of  the  Senate  of  Mass., 
who  accompanied  us  through  Billerika  to  Lexington,  where  I  dined 
and  viewed  the  spot  on  which  the  first  blood  was  spilt  in  the  dispute 
with  Great  Britain." 

Phillips  Academy  at  Andover  was  established  in  1778  through  the 
generosity  of  Samuel  Phillips  of  Andover,  and  John  Phillips  of  Exeter, 
N.H.,  sons  of  the  Rev.  Samuel  Phillips,  the  first  pastor  of  the  South 
Church,  Andover.  Samuel  Phillips  had  been  a  member  of  the  Pro- 
vincial Congress  and  had  reaped  the  benefits  of  "preparedness"  in 
manufacturing  gunpowder  for  Washington's  army.  Associated  with 
several  members  of  his  family  he  gave  $85,000  and  a  plot  of  land  to 
found  the  academy.  It  was  incorporated  in  1780  with  the  title  of 
Phillips  Academy.  The  old  brick  building,  designed  by  Bulfinch  in 
1818  was  burned  in  1896,  but  restored  after  the  original  design.  The 
Andover  Theological  Seminary  was  established  in  1808  and  was  largely 
endowed  by  the  Phillips  family.  It  was  a  great  factor  in  the  life  of 
the  community  until  its  removal  to  Cambridge  in  1908. 

From  Andover  the  State  Highway,  marked  by  blue  bands 
on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts,  follows  Elm  St.  to  the 
south  of  Carmel  Hill.  It  is  joined  from  the  right  by  the  yellow- 
marked  Route  37,  which  turns  left  on  Massachusetts  Ave. 


512  NORTH   ANDOVER— HAVERHILL 

27.0  NORTH  ANDOVER.  Alt  53  ft.  Pop  (twp)  5529  (1910), 
5956  (1915).  Essex  Co.  Settled  1644.  Mfg.  woolens  and 
worsteds  and  machinery. 

This  is  a  beautiful  residential  town  wellknown  for  its  manu- 
facturing interests. 

As  the  route  forks  left  with  blue  markers  along  Osgood  St., 
opposite  Academy  Road  is  the  old  Phillips  manse,  built  in 
1752  by  Samuel  Phillips,  one  of  the  founders  of  Phillips  Acad- 
emy, Andover.  This  was  for  a  time  the  home  of  Bishop 
Phillips  Brooks. 

Up  Academy  Road  on  the  hill  just  beyond  the  burying 
ground  is  the  old  Kittredge  house  (1784).  This  was  the  home 
of  Dr.  Thomas  Kittredge,  surgeon  of  First  Massachusetts 
Regiment  in  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  of  six  generations  of 
surgeons  and  physicians. 

The  ancient  Bradstreet  house  stands  to  the  right  of  Osgood 
St.  on  the  further  corner  of  Academy  Road.  The  house  was 
built  about  1667  and  was  the  home  of  Governor  Simon  Brad- 
street  and  his  wife  Anne,  daughter  of  Governor  Thomas 
Dudley,  the  "first  American  poetess."  The  original  house 
on  this  site  was  burned  in  1666,  which  event  moved  Mistress 
Anne  to  write  some  verses: 

"In  silent  night  when  rest  I  took 
For  sorrow  neer  I  did  not  look, 
I  waken'd  was  with  thundring  nois 
And  Piteous  shreiks  of  dreadfull  voice. 
The  fearful  sound  of  fire  and  fire 
Let  no  man  know  is  my  Desire." 

In  the  Indian  attack  of  March,  1698,  when  the  surrounding 
houses  were  burned,  this  house  was  preserved  on  the  plea 
of  an  Indian  who  had  been  befriended  by  Colonel  Bradstreet's 
mother.  Half  a  mile  further,  on  the  right,  are  the  Stevens 
Woolen  Mills,  built  in  1813  by  Captain  Nathaniel  Stevens; 
other  plants  are  the  Sutton's  Mill  built  in  1812;  and  the  Davis 
&  Furber  Machine  Shops  established  in  1836. 

On  Lake  Cochichewick,  the  largest  sheet  of  water  in  Essex 
County,  are  a  number  of  large  estates.  Some  twenty  years 
ago  Mr.  J.  D.  W.  French  had  some  interesting  experiments 
in  forestry  carried  out,  and  planted  conifers  which  in  later 
years  proved  resistant  to  the  browntail  and  gypsy  moth  cater- 
pillars. On  the  Stevens  property  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
lake  the  oak  and  deciduous  trees  from  the  mixed  woodland 
have  been  cut  under  the  auspices  of  the  State  Forester.  Some 
3000  cords  of  wood  and  1,000,000  board  feet  of  lumber  were 
harvested,  leaving  the  woodland  in  a  condition  to  resist  moth 
attacks.  On  the  shores  of  the  pond  are  plantations  of  native 
and  Scotch  pine  set  sixteen  years  ago  and  of  larch  and  spruce 
planted  together  some  thirty-two  years  ago.  They  also 


R.  28.     BOSTON  TO  HAVERHILL  513 

afford  interesting  opportunities  for  observation  to  any  inter- 
ested in  forestry. 

Near  the  junction  of  Stevens  and  Osgood  Sts.  is  the  Timothy 
Johnson  homestead  (1697),  where  Penelope  Johnson  was 
killed  by  the  Indians.  Near  the  Boxford  line,  across  the  pond 
at  the  corner  of  Dale  and  Water  Sts.,  is  the  Hubbard  Elm, 
said  to  be  nearly  280  years  old.  This  is  the  largest  tree  in 
Essex  County:  the  circumference  five  feet  from  the  ground  is 
20  feet  10  inches. 

The  route  continues  northeast,  leaving  Lawrence  (p  699) 
on  the  left,  through 

34.5     BRADFORD.     Alt  100  ft.     Essex  Co.    Settled  1658. 

Formerly  a  town  by  itself  Bradford  is  now  Ward  7  of  Haver- 
hill,  a  quiet  residential  section  with  a  fine  situation  on  the 
bank  of  the  Merrimack  opposite  Haver  hill.  Its  shady  streets 
are  lined  with  oldfashioned  houses,  in  marked  contrast  to  the 
bustle  of  the  city  across  the  river.  On  the  Boxford  road  is  the 
cellar  of  Thomas  Kimball's  house,  raided  by  the  Indians  in 
1676.  The  old  Dudley  Carleton  house  was  used  for  prisoners 
of  war  in  the  Revolution. 

Here  is  the  home  of  Bradford  Academy,  founded  in  1803, 
the  oldest  seminary  for  the  higher  education  of  young  women 
in  the  United  States.  Alice  Freeman  Palmer  long  took  an 
active  interest  in  it.  At  the  present  time  it  has  about  140 
students  drawn  from  all  over  the  country  (p  800). 

36.0     HAVERHILL  (R.  38,  p  697). 


R.  29.     BOSTON  to  WAKEFIELD,  PEABODY,  TOPS- 
FIELD,  GEORGETOWN,  and  HAVERHILL.     45.0  m. 

Following  Route  28  to  Stoneham,  fork  right  on  Elm  St. 

14.0  WAKEFIELD.  Alt  97  ft.  Pop  (twp)  11,404  (1910),  12,781 
(1915).  Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1639.  Mfg.  furniture, 
shoes,  sporting  goods,  pianos,  knit  goods,  and  stoves. 

Wakefield  owes  its  name  to  Cyrus  Wakefield  (1811-73), 
who  made  his  fortune  in  the  rattan  industry  and  gave  the 
Town  Hall  in  return  for  the  change  of  name  from  that 
of  South  Reading.  Besides  the  rattan  works,  Miller  pianos 
(p  800)  and  Wright  &  Ditson  sporting  goods  are  prominent 
among  the  manufacturers. 

The  Winn  Mansion  in  Elm  Square  has  been  recently  found 
to  contain  mural  landscape  decorations  more  than  a  century 
old.  The  bell  in  the  High  School  tower  was  bought  from 
Paul  Revere  in  1815.  Quannapowitt  Lake  and  Crystal  Lake 
lie  north  and  south  of  the  town. 

"1662 — This  year  the  town  ordered  that  no  woman,  maid,  nor 
boy,  nor  gall  shall  sit  in  the  South  Alley  and  East  Alley  of  the  M. 
House,  upon  the  penalty  of  twelvepence  for  every  day  they  shall  sit 
in  the  Alley  after  the  present  day.  It  was  further  ordered,  'That 
every  dog  that  comes  to  the  meeting  after  the  present  day,  either  of 
Lord's  day  or  lecture  days,  except  it  be  their  dogs  that  pays  for  a  dog 
whipper,  the  owner  of  those  dogs  shall  pay  sixpence  for  every  time 
they  come  to  the  meeting,  that  doth  not  pay  the  dog  whipper.'" 

The  route  continues  eastward  through  Lynnfield  township, 
crossing  Route  35. 

22.0     PEABODY.     Alt  19ft.     Pop  (twp)  15,721  (1910),  18,625  (1915). 

Essex    Co.     Inc.    1855.     Mfg.   leather,    shoe   stock,    tallow, 

glue,  and  shoes. 

Peabody  is  almost  united  with  Salem  in  situation  as  well  as 
in  industries.  Although  the  new  processes  which  have  so 
largely  superseded  bark  tanning  have  caused  new  centers  to 
spring  up,  notably  Woburn  and  Winchester,  Peabody  is  still 
the  great  tannery  town.  It  is  perhaps  the  world's  greatest 
sheepskin  tanning  center  with  an  annual  product  of  about 
$20,000,000. 

The  South  Parish  of  Danvers  in  1868  took  the  name  of  George 
Peabody,  the  banker  and  philanthropist,  born  here  in  1795.  He 
opened  a  banking-house  in  London,  in  1843,  and  acquired  a  princely 
fortune.  He  gave  Baltimore  $1,400,000  for  an  institute  of  literature, 
science,  and  the  fine  arts;  the  London  poor,  $2,500,000;  Harvard 
University,  $150,000  for  a  museum  and  a  professorship  of  American 
archeology  and  ethnology;  Yale  College,  $150,000;  the  Southern 
Educational  Fund,  $2,000,000;  and  a  library  to  his  native  town.  He 
also  founded  the  Peabody  Institute  at  Salem  (p  639).  He  died  in 
1869  and  after  funeral  honors  in  Westminster  Abbey  his  remains  were 
brought  to  America  in  a  British  man-of-war  and  buried  in  Peabody, 


R.  29.     BOSTON  TO  HAVERHILL  515 

The  route  bears  left  across  Waters  and  Crane  rivers  into 
DANVERS  (25.0)  on  Route  37.  Turning  right  at  the  square, 
and  along  Locust  St.,  it  leads  north  past  the  Rea-Putnam- 
Fowler  House  in  Putnamville  (26.5),  one  of  the  oldest  houses 
in  Essex  County. 

30.0  TOPSFIELD.  Alt  60  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1174  (1910),  1173  (1915). 
Essex  Co.  Settled  1639.  Indian  name  Shenewemedy. 

The  little  village  of  Topsfield  nestles  between  high,  char- 
acteristic drumlins.  Town  Hill  and  Great  Hill  to  the  east 
rise  to  over  240  feet.  The  region  is  a  favorite  one  for  the  resi- 
dences of  Boston  people.  The  arboretum  and  botanic  garden 
and  also  the  rock  garden  on  Emerson  Proctor's  estate  of  several 
thousand  acres  are  especially 
noteworthy. 

The  Parson  Capen  house 
(adm.  10  cents),  near  the 
Common,  dates  from  1683. 
It  has  recently  been  purchased 
and  restored  by  the  Topsfield 
Historical  Society  and  is  con- 
sidered the  best  example  in 
New  England  of  seventeenth 
century  Colonial  architecture, 
with  projecting  upper  story.  HHE 
The  lower  rooms  are  furnished  THE  pARSON  CAPEN  HOUSE 

in  the  manner  of  the  period. 

The  town  was  named  from  Topesfield,  England,  and  from  early 
records  one  gathers  that  the  region  was  infested  with  bears  and  wolves. 
The  father  of  the  celebrated  Joseph  Smith,  the  Mormon  prophet,  was 
a  native  of  the  town.  His  grave  is  in  the  old  burial  ground. 

'Haverhill  Street  continues  to 

33.0  BOXFORD.  Alt  95  ft.  Pop  (twp)  718  (1910),  714  (1915). 
Essex  Co.  Inc.  1694. 

Boxford  is  an  old  town  in  the  midst  of  the  pleasant  hills  of 
Essex  County.  Professor  George  Herbert  Palmer  of  Harvard 
writes  in  his  biography  of  his  wife,  Alice  Freeman  Palmer: 

"About  twenty-five  miles  to  the  north  of  Boston,  and  half  a  dozen 
inland  from  the  sea,  lies  the  ancient  village  of  Boxford,  settled  among 
its  trees.  ...  In  speaking  of  Boxford  it  is  more  natural  to  tell  first  of 
its  woods,  ponds,  and  brooks  than  of  its  houses  and  people,  because 
there  are  so  many  more  of  them.  .  .  .  The  village  itself  contains  only 
a  dozen  houses.  .  .  .  The  older  houses  sit  square  to  the  compass,  regard- 
less of  the  road.  Everything  about  them  is  in  order,  as  was  ordained 
two  hundred  years  ago;  paint,  thrift,  and  self  respect  having  main- 
tained the  standard  since. 

"This  is  the  village  which  in  Mrs.  Palmer's  affection  possessed  a 
sacredness  no  other  spot  on  earth  could  claim.  Into  it  had  soaked 
the  traditions  of  my  family  for  eight  generations.  To  it  her  own 
early  nature  worship  had  been  transferred  and  here  became  newly 


516  BOXFORD— HAVERHILL 

enriched  by  many  hallowed  experiences.     Here  was  her  refuge  when 
elsewhere  the  world  was  too  much  with  her.     The  hush  and  peace  of 
Boxford  she  herself  has  expressed  in  compact  verse: — 
"'Out  of  the  roar  and  din 

Safely  shut  in. 
Out  of  the  seething  street 

Silence  to  meet. 
Out  of  the  hurrying  hours 

To  lie  in  flowers. 
Far  from  the  toil  and  strife 

To  find  our  life.' 

Our  farm  in  Boxford  had  never  been  owned  by  anybody  but  ourselves 
and  Indians." 

Through  a  region  of  woods  and  ponds,  again  crossing  the 
R.R.,  the  State  Highway  runs  to  South  Georgetown  (37.0). 
Southwest  of  the  station  are  Bald  Pate  Pond  and  Bald  Pate 
Hill  (340  ft),  the  highest  in  Essex  County.  The  Bald  Pate 
Inn  is  a  favorite  rendezvous  for  motorists. 

38.0     GEORGETOWN.     Alt   98  ft.     Pop    (twp)   1958    (1910),   2058 
(1915).     Essex  Co.     Inc.  1838.     Mfg.  shoes. 

Georgetown  is  a  rural  village  in  the  heart  of  the  Essex  hills, 
a  delightful  region  of  old  roads,  obscure  cart  paths,  abandoned 
mills,  and  old  farms.  Originally  known  as  West  or  New 
Rowley,  it  was  part  of  the  "  accomodations  "  offered  by  the 
General  Court  to  Ezekiel  Rogers  and  his  company  in  1638. 
Tradition  says  the  town  was  named  for  George  Peabody,  who 
as  a  boy  in  1812  worked  here  and  in  after  life  presented  the 
town  with  a  public  library  and  a  memorial  church. 

The  route  continues,  passing  Pentucket  Pond  on  the  right, 
to  the  village  of  GROVELAND  (42.5),  joining  Route  38 n  from 
Newburyport,  with  red  markers,  and  crosses  the  bridge  over 
the  Merrimack  river,  joining  Route  38  at 

45.0     HAVERHILL  (R.  38). 


R.  30.  BOSTON  to  PROVINCETOWN.  129.0  m. 
Via  PLYMOUTH  and  the  NORTH  SHORE  or  CAPE  COD. 
This  is  the  most  attractive  route  to  the  Cape,  though  some- 
what longer  than  Route  31  (p  557),  via  Middleboro.  It  fol- 
lows the  coast  through  an  historic  country,  a  land  of  summer 
delight,  with  frequent  views  of  the  coast,  its  diminutive  har- 
bors, white  sand  beaches,  and  broad  stretches  of  green  marsh 
land.  Inland  the  slopes  of  the  rising  hills  are  dotted  with 
comfortable  farmhouses  and  attractive  summer  estates.  The 
road  is,  except  for  rare  and  short  stretches,  excellent  oiled 
macadam;  it  is  a  State  Highway,  marked  from  Quincy  by  red 
bands  on  poles  and  posts  at  all  doubtful  points. 

R.  30  §  1.     Boston  to  Plymouth.  50.0  m. 

This  takes  us  through  Pilgrim  land,  a  region  of  surpassing 
historic  interest.  Milton,  Quincy,  and  Hingham,  of  great 
importance  in  Colonial  history,  have  for  more  than  a  century 
been  conservative  residential  adjuncts  of  Boston.  Cohasset, 
Jerusalem  Road,  and  Scituate  are  regions  of  fine  summer 
estates  and  residences.  Through  Marshfield  and  Duxbury 
historic  sites  and  literary  associations  tempt  the  tourist  to 
tarry  or  make  detours. 

Leaving  Boston  by  way  of  Commonwealth  Avenue,  follow 
Route  21  (p  474),  via  the  Fenway,  Jamaica  Parkway,  Arbor- 
way,  and  at  Forest  Hills  passes  under  the  R.R.  and  elevated 
viaducts.  Follow  boulevard  to  Franklin  Park  entrance,  there 
turning  sharp  left  and  right  into  Morton  St.  Cross  Blue  Hill 
Ave.  (7.0),  the  road  used  by  Routes  31  and  32,  and  reach 

9.0  MILTON  LOWER  MILLS.  Alt  24  ft.  Pop  (twp)  7924  (1910), 
8600  (1915).  Norfolk  Co.  Settled  1636.  Indian  name 
Uncataquisset.  Mfg.  chocolate  and  crackers. 

Here  is  the  business  and  industrial  center  of  Milton.  The 
Walter  Baker  Chocolate  Mills  on  both  sides  of  the  road  and 
of  the  Neponset  river  occupy  the  site  of  several  of  the  earliest 
mills  in  the  colony.  The  first  mill  run  by  waterpower  in 
New  England,  a  grist  mill,  was  built  in  1634.  The  first  powder 
mill  was  started  here  in  1674.  In  1765  the  first  chocolate  mill 
in  the  country  was  here  begun  on  the  righthand  side  of  the 
road  before  crossing  the  river.  In  1780  this  passed  into  the 
hands  of  Dr.  James  Baker,  who  established  the  firm  which 
perpetuates  the  Baker  name  today  (p  800).  On  the  left,  by 
the  river,  was  located  the  first  paper  mill  in  the  country,  erected 
in  part  by  a  subsidy  from  the  General  Court. 

In  the  "Boston  News  Letter,"  1769,  appeared  this  advertisement: 
"The  bell-cart  will  go  thrpugh  the  city  before  the  end  of  the  month 

(Si7) 


5l8  MILTON   LOWER   MILLS 

to  collect  rags  for  the  paper  mill  at  Milton,  when  all  people  that  will 
.encourage  the  paper  manufacturing  may  dispose  of  them." 

This  quiet  old  town  for  rural  loveliness  has  hardly  a  peer. 
It  has  been  a  favorite  residential  town  for  Bostonians  since  the 
Colonial  days  of  Governor  Hutchinson.  Many  of  the  houses 
built  in  those  early  days  are  still  standing  and  some  of  them 
have  been  only  slightly  remodeled.  There  is  hardly  a  road 
in  Milton  which  does  not  possess  exceptional  beauty  and 
historical  interest.  Motorists,  and  in  fact  pedestrians,  who 
desire  to  spend  a  happy  afternoon  can  hardly  do  better  than 
ramble  hither  and  yon  through  the  countryside  of  Milton. 
The  town  takes  a  pride  in  maintaining  splendid  roads  and  foot- 
paths. The  greater  part  of  the  residential  portion  of  the  town 
rises  to  our  right  and  extends  as  far  as  the  Blue  Hills  (p  476). 
It  includes  several  centers  scattered  throughout  the  township, 
as  at  Milton  Churches,  on  Brush  Hill  (p  570),  at  the  juncture  of 
Canton  Ave.  and  Mattapan  Parkway,  and  at  East  Milton. 

Just  beyond  the  bridge,  on  the  left,  stands  the  Vose  house, 
with  three  old  English  elms  before  it.  In  this  house  or  its 
predecessor  were  adopted,  Sept.  9,  1775,  the  "Suffolk  Re- 
solves," which  had  been  drawn  up  in  Dedham  (p  198),  and 
were  carried  to  Philadelphia  by  Paul  Revere.  These  formed 
the  prelude  to  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  declared 
that  a  sovereign  who  breaks  his  contract  with  his  subjects 
forfeits  their  allegiance,  that  oppressive  measures  were  uncon- 
stitutional, that  crown  officers  should  be  seized  as  hostages  for 
any  political  prisoners  arrested  by  the  royal  Government. 

The  route  climbs  the  short  steep  ascent  of  Adams  St.,  over 
Milton  Hill,  following  the  old  'Country  Heigh  Weye'  of  1653 
which  led  from  Boston  town  to  the  Plymouth  Plantation. 
The  first  two  miles  disclose  charming  views  and  rich  estates 
on  either  side  of  the  road. 

At  the  corner  on  the  right  as  we  go  up  the  hill  is  a  long  low 
building,  formerly  the  old  Rising  Sun  Tavern.  The  roads  on 
our  right  lead  to  the  Blue  Hills  and  to  Randolph  (R.  31,  p  557) 
and  Ponkapog  (R.  32,  p  570)  through  Milton  Center. 

The  Governor  Hutchinson  house  stands  on  the  right  almost 
at  the  top  of  the  hill.  Though  considerably  remodeled  since 
the  days  of  the  old  Tory  Governor,  it  is  still  to  be  identified 
by  its  gables.  At  the  time  of  the  Boston  Tea  Party,  mobs 
attacked  this  house  as  well  as  his  Boston  residence,  incited  in 
part  by  a  bitter  sermon  preached  against  him  by  Dr.  Mayhew, 
a  divine  of  the  time.  Brooks  Adams  relates: 

"His  irreplaceable  collection  of  original  papers  was  thrown  into 
the  street;  and  when  a  bystander  interfered  in  the  hope  of  saving 
some  of  them,  'answer  was  made,  that  it  had  been  resolved  to  destroy 
everything  in  the  house;  and  such  resolve  should  be  carried  to  effect.' 


R.  30  §  I.     BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  519 

Malice  so  bitter  bears  the  peculiar  ecclesiastical  tinge,  and  is  explained 
by  the  confession  of  one  of  the  ring-leaders,  who,  when  subsequently 
arrested,  said  he  had  been  excited  by  the  sermon,  'and  that  he  thought 
he  was  doing  God  service.'" — THE  EMANCIPATION  OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 

It  was  from  this  house  that  Hutchinson,  on  his  departure  for 
England,  took  leave  of  the  prominent  citizens,  to  whom  he 
had  endeared  himself  through  his  public  spirit  in  road  building, 
tree  planting,  and  many  other  enterprises. 

The  meadow  at  the  left  is  held  by  Trustees  of  Public  Reser- 
vations in  order  to  preserve  for  the  public  the  beautiful  view 
over  Boston  Harbor  and  Mt.  Wollaston.  Hutchinson  was  so 
fond  of  this  scene  that  he  mentions  it  with  deep  regard  after 
his  departure  to  England  and  also  speaks  of  the  delight  which 
his  guests  from  England  and  elsewhere  had  found  in  it.  From 
the  summit  of  the  hill  are  seen  at  the  left  snatches  of  the 
North  Shore  and  Boston  Harbor  with  the  tower  of  the  Custom 
House  looming  conspicuously  at  the  extreme  left.  About  a 
mile  to  the  right,  inland,  lie  the  extensive  grounds  of  Milton 
Academy  and  the  Town  Hall  and  Milton  Churches. 

A  hundred  yards  beyond  on  the  left  a  tablet  marks  the  site 
of  Milton's  first  meeting  house,  opposite  the  point  where 
Churchills  Lane,  the  old  Indian  trail  to  the  Blue  Hills, 
plunges  down  through  the  beeches.  The  church,  which  was 
no  more  than  a  log  cabin,  was  also  used  as  a  school. 

The  estates  on  both  sides  of  the  road  are  renowned  for  their 
beauty.  Several  of  them  belong  to  members  of  the  Forbes 
family,  prominent  since  Colonial  days  both  in  local  and  na- 
tional history  and  finance.  On  the  left,  by  the  granite  drink- 
ing fountain  at  the  foot  of  the  first  descent,  is  the  red  brick 
mansion  of  J.  Malcolm  Forbes,  standing  far  back  from  the 
road.  Nearly  a  mile  further  on,  at  the  junction  of  Adams  and 
Center  Sts.,  are  two  or  three  quaint  old  houses;  the  square 
homestead  behind  the  willows  on  the  right  occupies  the  site 
of  the  Governor  Belcher  mansion,  burned  by  the  patriots  in 
1776  just  after  Madam  Belcher  fled  to  Brush  Hill  for  refuge. 

The  route  crosses  R.R.  at  the  village  of  East  Milton,  once 
called  Railway  Village.  On  the  left  a  stone  water  tower  crowns 
Forbes  Hill.  From  here  the  Furnace  Brook  Parkway  con- 
tinues to  Quincy.  On  the  ridge  to  the  right  the  derricks 
mark  the  West  Quincy  granite  quarries.  The  first  railroad  in 
America  was  laid  here  in  1826  to  facilitate  the  carrying  of 
granite  blocks  for  Bunker  Hill  Monument  from  these  quarries 
to  the  harbor.  Horses  and  oxen  furnished  the  motive  power. 
The  granite  house  at  the  corner  of  Edge  Hill  Road  was  built 
soon  after  the  railroad  and  given  the  name  of  The  Railway 
House.  The  Furnace  Brook  Reservation  road  (R.  21,  p  476) 
branches  on  the  right,  to  the  Blue  Hills. 


520  MILTON   LOWER   MILLS— QUINCY 

Granite  quarrying  and  cutting  is  the  leading  industry  of  Quincy, 
and  engages  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  firms,  chiefly  in  the  manu- 
facture of  monumental  and  cemetery  work.  There  is  an  investment 
of  capital  of  $2,500,000,  and  the  annual  value  of  the  product  is  about 
$2,000,000.  The  industry  dates  from  1749,  when  the  art  of  splitting 
the  stone  accurately  was  first  introduced. 

A  visit  to  the  granite  quarries,  the  cutting  shops,  and  the  finishing 
and  polishing  shops  proves  highly  interesting.  Great  blocks  of  gran- 
ite are  turned  in  huge  lathes  into  columns,  globes,  or  discs  with  the 
same  ease  that  wood  is  handled.  From  a  rough  block  a  human  figure 
is  worked  out  with  skill  to  the  minutest  detail,  almost  wholly  by 
mechanical  means. 

The  Adams  mansion,  broad-fronted  and  dignified,  with  vine- 
covered  portico,  stands  back  from  the  street,  the  last  house  on 
the  left  before  reaching  the  railroad  bridge  on  Adams  St.  It 
was  the  home  of  two  Presidents  and  many  distinguished  gen- 
erations of  the  Adams  family. 

It  is  sometimes  called  the  Golden  Wedding  House,  for  here  three 
successive  generations  celebrated  their  fiftieth  wedding  anniversaries. 
It  stands  slightly  below  the  level  of  the  street  in  spacious  grounds, 
still  wearing  an  air  of  distinction.  The  detached  vine-covered  brick 
structure  to  the  west  is  the  library.  The  house  was  built  in  1731  by 
Leonard  Vassal!,  a  West  India  planter,  for  his  summer  residence.  A 
violent  king-and-church  Tory,  he  fled  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolu- 
tion and  his  estate  was  confiscated.  John  Adams  acquired  the  prop- 
erty and  lived  in  it  during  the  remainder  of  his  days,  revered  by  the 
townspeople  and  visited  by  eminent  foreigners.  His  favorite  walk 
was  up  President's  Lane,  opposite  the  house,  to  the  top  of  President's 
Hill  "every  morning  to  see  the  sun  rise  and  every  evening  to  see  the 
sun  set."  The  mansion  remains  in  the  possession  of  the  Adams  family 
and  has  been  occupied  successively  by  John  Quincy,  Charles  Francis, 
and  Brooks  Adams,  as  a  summer  residence. 

Adams  Academy,  corner  of  Hancock  and  Adams  St.,  was 
endowed  by  John  Adams  and  built  in  1872  upon  the  site  he 
had  chosen  for  it,  where  John  Hancock  was  born.  The  Quincy 
Mansion  School  for  Girls,  at  Wollaston,  not  far  away,  as  its 
name  implies  occupies  a  later  residence  of  the  Quincy  family. 

13.0  QUINCY.  Pop  (twp)  32,624  (1910),  40*74  (1915).  Norfolk 
Co.  Settled  1625.  Mfg.  women's  clothing,  rag  carpets, 
boots  and  shoes,  foundry  and  machine  products;  granite,  and 
shipbuilding. 

Quincy  today  is  a  prosy  town  neither  suburb  nor  city,  for- 
merly the  home  of  independence,  Revolutionary  statesmen, 
and  two  Presidents.  The  influx  of  modern  industrialism  and 
a  foreign  population  have  perhaps  interfered  with  the  main- 
tenance of  her  historic  dignity.  In  the  heart  of  Quincy  the 
mansions,  estates,  and  institutions  belong  to  former  genera- 
tions. On  the  outskirts  are  many  fine  modern  residences. 
Her  granite  industry  is  at  least  a  century  old,  but  the  domi- 
nating industry  of  the  place  today  is  a  branch  of  Schwab's 
Bethlehem  Steel,  the  Fore  River  company. 


R.  30  §  i.     BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  521 

In  the  square  is  the  Stone  Temple,  completed  in  1828. 
(Admission  fee  to  attendant.)  It  is  built  of  Quincy  granite 
from  property  deeded  the  town  by  John  Adams  with  the 
request  that  "a  Temple  should  be  built  from  the  stone." 
'The  President's  Pew'  was  occupied  by  John  Quincy  Adams 
and  later  by  Charles  Francis  Adams,  our  Minister  to  England 
during  the  Civil  War.  Under  the  portico  are  the  tombs  of 
both  the  Presidents  and  their  wives.  In  the  old  cemetery 
opposite  the  church  are  buried  many  of  the  Quincy  and 
Adams  families.  On  the  stone  above  the  grave  of  a  five-year- 
old  boy  is  the  inscription, 

"Schoolmates,  we  parted  on  Saturday  noon 
With  hopes  of  meeting  on  Monday, 
But  ah!  what  a  change: 
Before  12  o'clock 
The  arrow  of  death  had  entered  my  body." 


THE   QUINCY    MANSION,    KNOWN    AS    THE  DOROTHY   Q.    HOUSE 

The  Quincy  mansion,  otherwise  known  as  the  Dorothy  Q. 
House,  is  about  half  a  mile  north  on  Hancock  St.,  on  the  right 
beyond  the  High  School,  in  broad  grounds  through  which  runs 
Furnace  Brook.  It  has  recently  been  purchased  by  the 
Metropolitan  Park  Commission,  aided  by  the  Colonial  Dames, 
and  the  grounds  made  a  part  of  the  Furnace  Brook  Parkway. 
The  house  is  now  in  charge  of  the  Dames,  by  whom  it  has  been 
sympathetically  and  intelligently  restored  within  and  without. 
It  is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  Colonial  domestic  archi- 
tecture, built  about  1634  by  William  Coddington  of  Boston, 
who  occupied  it  as  a  summer  home  until  exiled  for  his  religious 
views.  Edmund  Quincy,  who  with  John  Cotton  came  to 
Boston  in  1633,  obtained  possession  shortly  after.  His  son 
who  bore  his  name  enlarged  the  original  structure  and  lived 


522  QUINCY 

here  until  his  death  in  1698,  when  it  descended  to  his  son, 
another  Edward,  who  was  prominent  as  a  jurist  and  public 
citizen,  and  father  of  'Dorothy  Q.'  As  Dorothy  was  a  family 
name  it  came  about  that  there  were  two  who  deserve  mention 
here — one  the  grandmother  of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes,  and  the 
other  was  John  Hancock's  wife  (p  85).  The  house  is  open  to 
public  free  on  Saturdays,  at  other  times  for  a  small  fee.  Within 
are  oldtime  furniture  and  utensils,  pictures,  and  costumes,  so 
that  on  entering  the  homestead  one  steps  back  into  another  age. 
The  Furnace  Brook  Reservation  affords  views  of  the  surrounding 
country.  To  the  north  pushing  into  the  Bay  is  Squantum,  where  Miles 
Standish  and  the  faithful  Squanto,  his  Indian  guide,  landed  on  Sept. 
30,  1621,  on  an  exploring  expedition  from  Plymouth.  The  origin 
of  the  name  is  interesting  as  explained  in  Higginson's  "New  England's 
Plantation"  of  1630:  "For  their  Religion,  they  doe  worship  two  Gods, 
a  good  God  and  an  evill  God:  the  good  God  they  call  Tantum,  and  their 
evill  God  whom  they  feare  will  doe  them  hurt,  they  call  Squantum." 

On  Hancock  St.  south  of  the  square,  at  the  corner  of  Elm,  is 
Christ  Church,  in  front  of  which  is  an  interesting  fountain. 
Turning  right  on  School  St.,  at  the  junction  of  Franklin  St. 
and  Independence  Ave.  are  the  old  Adams  homesteads.  The 
house  in  which  John  Adams  was  born  is  the  smaller  of  the  two 
simple  farmhouses  of  a  century  ago.  At  the  time  of  his  mar- 
riage to  Abigail  Smith,  whose  letters  are  among  our  best  rec- 
ords of  the  strenuous  life  of  Revolutionary  days,  he  moved 
into  the  other  house,  and  there  John  Quincy  Adams  was  born 
July  n,  1767.  The  first,  or  John  Adams  house,  has  been 
placed  in  charge  of  the  Adams  Chapter  D.A.R.;  the  second, 
sometimes  known  as  the  John  and  Abigail  Adams  Cottage,  is 
occupied  by  the  Quincy  Historical  Society.  (Adm.  fee.) 

Not  far  beyond  to  the  left  on  Penn's  Hill  a  high  stone  cairn 
marks  the  spot  where  Abigail  Adams  and  her  son  watched  the 
smoke  and  flame  of  the  Battle  of  Bunker  Hill  on  June  17,  1775. 

The  first  settlement  on  the  territory  of  Quincy  was  in  1625  when 
Captain  Wollaston  established  a  trading  post  near  the  hillock  now 
known  as  Mt.  Wollaston.  "In  his  absence  his  rebellious  servants, 
led  by  Thomas  Morton,  'that  pettifogger  from  Furnival's  Inn,'  flung 
off  all  authority,  declared  their  independence,  every  man  doing  what 
was  right  in  his  own  eyes.  On  May  Day,  1627,  they  flaunted  their 
freedom  in  the  sight  of  solemn  Puritanism  by  setting  up  the  far-famed 
May-pole.  Hilariously  these  unleashed  pagans  from  the  purlieus  of 
the  gross  court  of  King  James  danced  about  the  'idoll'  of  Merry-Mount, 
joining  hands  with  'the  lasses  in  beaver  coats,'  and  singing  their  ribald 
songs.  For  this,  and  also  because  they  sold  arms  to  the  savages, 
Myles  Standish,  with  his  army  of  eight  men  from  Plymouth,  scattered 
them  and  arrested  Morton."  Fear  of  Indian  raids  led  to  the  building 
of  the  fort  the  remains  of  which  existed  near  the  farmhouse  of  one 
George  Beal  as  late  as  1725. 

Note.  The  more  direct  route  to  Plymouth  via  Weymouth 
and  Hanover,  is  Route  22  (p  482). 


R.  30  §  i.     BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  523 

The  route  leads  southeast  from  Quincy  Square  passing  the 
rear  of  the  Stone  Temple.  From  this  point  the  route  is  marked 
throughout  by  red  bands  on  poles  and  posts  at  all  doubtful 
points.  On  the  left  not  far  from  the  square  is  the  Crane 
Memorial  Library.  A  mile  or  more  further  on  it  crosses  Wey- 
mouth  Fore  River  into  North  Weymouth  and  Old  Spain.  On 
the  right  of  the  bridge  of  Quincy  Neck  is  the  great  plant  of  the 
Fore  River  Shipbuilding  Company,  now  the  leading  industry 
of  Quincy,  which  a  few  years  ago  was  absorbed  by  the  Beth- 
lehem Steel  Company.  Here  in  recent  years  have  been  built 
some  of  the  greatest  battleships  for  our  own  and  other  gov- 
ernments, including  the  "Rivadavia,"  recently  built  for  Ar- 
gentina, numerous  cruisers,  gunboats,  destroyers,  submarines, 
and  a  whole  fleet  of  merchant  ships.  The  great  war  with 
the  consequent  naval  needs  of  this  and  foreign  countries  has 
greatly  stimulated  the  industry  and  led  to  the  enlargement 
of  the  plant.  The  payroll  in  recent  years  has  varied  between 
$45,000  and  $75,000  per  week. 

Shipbuilding  was  carried  on  here  to  some  extent  in  the  eighteenth 
century,  and  the  "Massachusetts,"  built  here  in  1789,  was  one  of  the 
largest  ships  afloat  for  many  years.  This  industry  sank  into  compar- 
ative insignificance  for  a  number  of  years,  but  in  1899  two  men  who 
were  doing  a  small  business  in  marine  engines  managed  to  get  the  con- 
tracts for  building  two  destroyers  for  the  Government  and  built  them 
about  two  miles  upstream  at  East  Braintree.  The  plant  was  not 
big  enough  and  before  the  citizens  of  Quincy  knew  what  was  going  on 
the  farm  of  an  Italian  farmer  had  been  purchased  and  work  started  on 
what  has  become  one  of  America's  largest  shipbuilding  plants 

The  land  lying  to  the  right  of  the  next  bridge  has  been  taken 
by  the  government  for  a  powder  magazine,  and  here  is  stored 
much  of  the  powder  used  by  the  ships  which  make  Charles- 
town  their  home  port.  Across  the  river  to  the  left  is  the  big 
plant  of  the  Bradley  Fertilizer  Company. 

The  river  here  forms  the  boundary  line  between  Norfolk 
and  Plymouth  Counties.  About  a  mile  to  the  left  lies  Crow 
Point,  a  popular  summer  resort,  formerly  called  Downer's 
Landing  and  Melville  Gardens,  once  owned  by  Colonel  Melville 
of  Green  Street,  Bowdoin  Square,  Boston.  The  old  Colonel 
was  the  last  of  those  who  wore  knee  breeches  and  cocked  hats, 
and  was  the  inspiration  of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes'  poem  "The 
Last  Leaf."  On  the  right  of  the  road  are  the  extensive 
lawns  of  the  Bradley  estate  and  on  the  left  are  the  bare  slopes 
of  Otis  Hill,  once  called  Weary- All-Hill,  since  named  for  the 
first  of  the  American  Otises,  whose  farm  this  once  was.  Near 
the  foot  is  the  encampment  of  the  First  Corps  of  Cadets,  and 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond,  overlooking  the  harbor,  is  the 
estate  of  the  late  John  D.  Long,  Governor  of  the  State,  and 
Secretary  of  the  Navy  during  the  Spanish-American  War. 


524  HINGHAM 

19.5     HINGHAM.     Alt  21  ft.     Pop  (twp)  4965  (1910),  5264  (1915). 
Plymouth  Co.     Settled  1635. 

Very  proud  of  its  history  and  of  the  retention  of  so  much  of 
the  oldtime  spirit  and  exterior,  Hingham  is  still  "the  country 
town"  in  many  ways,  gathering  summer  residents  around  the 
shores  of  the  harbor.  Its  ancient  industries,  shipbuilding  and 
bucket-making,  have  disappeared.  At  the  annual  Arts  and 
Crafts  Exhibition  in  midsummer,  baskets,  mats,  and  toy  fur- 
niture made  by  the  natives  are  shown. 

Hingham  was  founded  in  1633  by  settlers  from  Hingham,  England, 
and  originally  bore  the  name  of  Bear  Cove.  During  the  troubles  with 
King  Philip  which  commenced  about  1675  the  town  was  protected  by 
three  forts, — one  at  Fort  Hill,  one  at  the  cemetery,  and  one  "on  the 
plain  about  a  mile  from  the  harbor."  On  the  nineteenth  of  April,  1676, 
"John  Jacob  was  slain  by  the  Indians  near  his  father's  house,"  ac- 
cording to  John  Hobart,  the  early  historian  and  minister  of  the  town. 
The  following  day  five  dwellings  were  burned  by  the  Indians. 

The  General  Lincoln  house  on  the  right  before  coming  to 
the  Green  is  still  occupied  by  the  descendants  of  Benjamin 
Lincoln  who  received  the  sword  of  Cornwallis  at  Yorktown. 
Parts  of  the  present  structure  were  built  in  1667  and  are  still 
in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  The  Lincoln  family  has  been 
identified  with  the  town  since  its  settlement  in  1635.  Nearby 
is  the  original  seat  of  an  ancestor  of  Abraham  Lincoln,  Samuel 
Lincoln,  who  purchased  the  estate  in  1649;  one  branch  of 
Samuel's  descendants  still  occupies  part  of  the  original  home- 
stead. Nearly  opposite  this  old  house  is  the  New  North 
Church,  built  by  Bulfinch  in  1806  and  containing  a  slave 
gallery.  The  last  occupant  of  this  gallery  was  one  Lucretia, 
who  after  being  freed  was  invited  to  sit  downstairs  in  the  pew 
with  her  master  and  mistress,  which  she  did  and  continued  to 
do  until  her  death  about  ten  or  fifteen  years  ago. 

Just  before  reaching  the  church  is  the  old  'Ordinary,'  built 
about  1650,  now  a  residence,  which  was  known  as  Wilder's 
Tavern  sixty  years  ago  and  before  then  as  Andrew's  Tavern. 

At  the  village  square,  formerly  called  Broad  Bridge,  the  road 
crosses  the  tracks  to  the  right  and  follows  the  red  markers 
along  Main  St.,  whose  'wine-glass'  elms  almost  form  a  com- 
plete arch.  Rev.  Price  Collier,  writer  on  European  life,  and 
for  some  years  minister  of  the  'Old  Ship,'  asserted  that  he 
had  never  seen  in  any  foreign  country  a  more  beautiful  street. 
On  the  left  the  four-square  yellow  Colonial  building  is  the  old 
Derby  Academy,  founded  in  1784  and  endowed  by  Mme. 
Sarah  Derby,  wife  of  "Lord"  Derby  of  Salem  (p  642). 

The  Wompatuck  Club,  named  after  the  Indian  Chief  Wom- 
patuck,  the  grantor  of  the  original  deeds  of  the  town,  occupies 
one  of  the  oldest  houses  in  Hingham,  dating  back  to  1680. 
In  the  assembly  room  of  the  club  house  are  panels  on  the  walls 


R.  30   §   I.      BOSTON  TO   PLYMOUTH 


525 


and  in  the  doors,  painted  by  John  Hazlitt,  a  brother  of  William 
Hazlitt,  the  noted  English  essayist,  in  1787.  The  original 
owner  of  this  house  was  John  Thaxter.  A  picture  of  the  old 
Anchor  Tavern  hangs  on  the  wall  in  one  of  the  upper  rooms. 

To  the  north  of  the  station,  next  the  hotel,  is  a  dwelling, 
once  a  garrison  house.  Nine  generations  of  the  same  family 
have  lived  under  ks  roof.  It  antedates  1640.  On  the  hill 
beyond,  Dr.  Gay,  pastor  in  the  old  meeting  house  from  1718 
to  1787,  built  before  1750  a  high-studded  comfortable  house. 

Beyond  the  academy  the  Old  Ship  Church  has  stood  for 
over  two  centuries  much  the  same  as  when  first  erected,  1681. 
All  the  original  timbers  of  the  frame  remain  as  solid  as  when 


THE    OLD    SHIP   CHURCH,    HINGHAM,   l68l 

they  were  first  hewn  out  of  solid  oak  with  the  broad-axe,  whose 
marks  are  evident  to  this  day.  Its  undoubted  antiquity  is 
such  that  it  stands  on  record  as  the  oldest  house  for  public 
worship  in  the  United  States  which  stands  on  its  original  site 
and  is  still  used  for  its  original  purpose.  During  its  long  his- 
tory it  has  had  but  ten  ministers.  In  the  burying  ground 
behind  is  an  Indian  Fort,  a  circular  mound  of  earth,  dating 
probably  from  1635.  Nearby  are  the  statue  of  Governor 
John  A.  Andrew,  the  great  war  Governor,  the  graves  of  General 
Benjamin  Lincoln  and  Governor  Long,  and  many  old  stones 
carrying  quaint  inscriptions. 

Hingham  has  been  kept  in  the  lime-light  during  the  last  few 
years  by  'Wash'  James,  Chief  of  Police,  whose  zeal  against  the 
motorists  has  brought  the  town  revenue  as  well  as  notoriety. 
Though  approaching  seventy  he  has  had  several  valiant  hand- 
to-hand  encounters  with  'bad  men.' 


526  HINGHAM— NORTH   SCITUATE 

Note.  From  Hingham,  following  Main  St.  and  the  car 
tracks,  a  wide  village  street  through  South  Hingham  leads 
southward  five  miles  to  Queen  Anne's  Corner,  where  the  house 
still  stands  in  which  three  old  maids  of  Revolutionary  times 
remained  loyal  to  Great  Britain  long  after  peace  was  declared, 
in  fact  until  1825.  Thence  by  the  back  roads  through  West 
Scituate  and  Hanover  is  the  shortest  way  to  Marshfield.  The 
nomenclature  of  this  region  is  singularly  suggestive,  with  such 
names- as  Glad  Tidings  Plain,  Liberty-Pole  Hill,  Liberty  Plain, 
Fulling  Mill  Pond,  bucket  Mill  Pond,  and  Triphammer  Pond. 

Detour  by  Jerusalem  Road  to  Cohasset  Harbor. 

From  Hingham  station  this  slightly  longer  but  much-used 
detour  keeps  straight  on,  following  trolley.  About  a  quarter 
mile  beyond  the  village  the  road  follows  for  a  short  way  the 
shore  of  Hingham  Harbor,  where  in  the  autumn  the  wharves 
and  water  are  dotted  with  'smelt-fishers.' 

Passing  under  the  R.R.  bridge  we  leave  the  car  tracks  and 
continue  straight  ahead  and  along  the  edge  of  Straits  Pond, 
sometimes  called  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  where  the  famous  Jerusalem 
Road  commences. 

Note.  From  West  Corner  the  road  to  the  left,  following  the 
trolley,  leads  to  Nantasket  Beach,  a  popular  resort  of  which 
Paragon  Park  is  the  central  attraction.  The  beautiful  beach, 
thickly  dotted  with  summer  cottages,  extends  for  five  miles 
from  Atlantic  Hill  to  Point  Allerton,  opposite  Boston  Light, 
and  Pemberton.  Steamboats  run  to  Boston  from  Nantasket 
and  Pemberton,  at  the  end  of  the  peninsula. 

After  passing  the  Black  Rock  House  the  road  continues  along 
the  rocky  ocean  shore  bordered  by  fine  estates,  rejoining  the 
main  route  at  Cohasset.  At  the  top  of  the  first  hill  off  to 
the  left  lies  the  large  estate  of  Eugene  N.  Foss,  three  times 
Governor  of  Massachusetts.  Green  Hill  is  dotted  with  the 
coarsest  plum-pudding  stone  in  the  country.  The  Atlantic 
House  Hill  is  all  that  is  left  of  an  ancient  volcano,  and  Black 
Rock  is  composed  of  antediluvian  lava. 

Minots  Light,  a  granite  shaft  nearly  a  hundred  feet  high, 
stands  about  a  mile  off  shore  on  Minots  Ledge,  a  menace  to 
navigation  wholly  under  water  at  high  tide. 

The  original  Minots  Light  was,  in  the  great  storm  of  1851,  "snapped 
off  like  a  pike-staff."  The  present  structure  of  Quincy  granite  was 
the  first  of  its  kind  in  America  to  be  built  on  a  ledge,  awash  at  high 
tide  with  no  adjacent  dry  land.  The  insurmountable  difficulties  were 
finally  overcome,  but  in  the  year  1855  the  work  could  be  prosecuted 
for  only  130  hours  and  the  following  year  for  only  157  hours.  The 
blocks  for  the  lower  portion  were  carefully  cut,  dovetailed,  and  set  up 
on  Government  Island  in  Cohasset  Harbor  before  they  were  erected 
on  their  permanent  site. 


R.  30  §  I.     BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  527 

From  Hingham  to  Cohasset  the  State  Road  of  oiled  mac- 
adam with  red  markers  is  straight  and  unmistakable.  Beyond 
the  village  we  leave  the  car  track  and  at  the  top  of  the  hill  to 
the  right  is  Agricultural  Hall.  A  mile  beyond  at  Rocky  Nook 
a  board  on  a  magnificent  elm  states  that  the  tree  was  trans- 
planted in  1719  and  that  in  1775  Parson  Brown  preached  under 
it  to  the  Colonial  troops.  On  the  north  slope  of  Turkey  Hill 
is  the  estate  of  the  late  Dean  Thayer  of  the  Harvard  Law 
School.  Beyond  North  Cohasset,  after  crossing  the.  R.R., 
the  Whitney  race-track,  the  scene  of  the  Cohasset  horse  show, 
lies  to  the  left.  Through  the  woods  is  the  Cohasset  Golf  Club, 
a  part  of  the  estate  of  Henry  M.  Whitney,  once  the  dominating 
magnate  of  New  England.  The  detour  enters  on  the  left. 

24.5  COHASSET.  Alt  24  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2585  (1910),  2800  (1915). 
Norfolk  Co.  Inc.  1770.  Indian  name  Quonahassitt. 

This  restful  old  town,  a  quiet  dignified  spot,  has  become  the 
leading  social  center  of  the  South  Shore.  Its  streets,  shaded 
by  fine  old  trees  which  seem  as  venerable  as  the  town  itself, 
have  been  well  cared  for.  The  shore,  Thoreau  says,  is  the 
rockiest  in  the  State. 

Facing  Cohasset  Common  is  the  typical  New  England  meet- 
ing house  and  the  old  Hobart  house  (1722).  On  the  right  of 
South  Main  St.,  which  our  route  follows,  stands  the  house 
erected  by  Mordecai  Lincoln  for  his  son  Isaac  in  1717,  who 
was  the  direct  ancestor  of  Abraham  Lincoln,  so  that  the  house 
may  be  called  the  Abraham  Lincoln  Homestead.  It  is  still 
occupied  and  owned  by  members  of  the  Lincoln  family.  Fur- 
ther along  South  Main  St.,  just  before  crossing  Bound  Brook 
into  North  Scituate,  is  a  tablet  on  the  lefthand  side  of  the 
road  marking  the  original  line  between  the  Plymouth  and  the 
Massachusetts  Bay  Colonies  and  now  the  division  line  between 
Cohasset  and  Scituate. 

Cohasset  is  near  enough  to  Boston  to  be  a  comfortable  place 
of  residence  the  year  round,  though  there  is  a  summer  colony  as 
well.  On  the  road  to  North  Scituate  are  many  fine  estates, 
notably  on  the  left  the  extensive  estate  of  Mrs.  Thomas  Plant. 

26.5  NORTH  SCITUATE.  Pop  (twp)  2482  (1910),  2661  (1915). 
Plymouth  Co.  Settled  1633.  Indian  name  Satuit,  "cold 
brook." 

This  is  the  most  northern  of  the  several  villages  in  Scituate, 
an  ancient  town  settled  in  1628  whose  appearance  has  been 
greatly  modernized  by  the  advent  of  summer  residents. 

Detour  to  Scituate  Beach  and  Harbor. 

Leaving  North  Scituate  station  on  the  right  a  good  oiled 
road  leads  through  a  level  stretch  of  woodland  to  the  beach. 


528  NORTH   SCITUATE 

To  the  left  is  the  Hatherly  Golf  Club  whose  attractive  club 
house  is  the  center  of  social  activity.  The  Cliff  House  at  the 
left,  long  idle,  has  within  the  past  few  years  become  one  of 
the  most  popular  on  the  South  Shore.  The  white  sand  beach 
curbs  gently  seaward  affording  excellent  bathing.  From  the 
sea  wall  there  is  an  extended  view  over  Massachusetts  Bay. 
Far  to  the  north  stands  Minots  Light  and  in  the  foreground 
are  the  Glades,  a  rocky  wooded  promontory. 

The  Hatherly  Road  to  the  right  leads  along  the  shore  to 
Mann  Hill,  where  is  a  summer  colony  overlooking  the  Bay, 
thence  on  to  Shore  Acres,  an  unpretentious  cottage  colony. 
Rows  of  cottages  extend  southward  along  the  shore  to  old 
obsolete  Scituate  Light,  erected  1810  on  Cedar  Point.  Con- 
tinuing, Hatherly  Road  skirts  the  harbor  of  Scituate,  an 
almost  land-locked  basin  on  the  shore  of  which  is  the  Scituate 
Yacht  Club,  for  the  harbor  in  summer  is  much  frequented  by 
yachts  as  well  as  fishing  boats.  On  an  elevation  near  is  a  fine 
old  Colonial  house  to  which  an  avenue  of  elm  trees  leads. 
This  was  originally  a  fort  and  during  the  War  of  1812  did 
service  in  repelling  English  frigates. 

A  legend  of  the  War  of  1812  tells  us  that  the  Otis  of  that  day, 
a  grandnephew  of  James  Otis,  the  Revolutionary  patriot, 
aroused  the  little  village  in  the  early  morning  hours  with  the 
dread  news  that  an  English  warship  lay  off  the  harbor.  The 
legend  goes  on  to  say  that  little  Rebecca  and  Abigail  Bates, 
with  fife  and  drum,  marched  up  and  down  close  to  the  shore 
yet  hidden  from  sight  of  the  warship  playing  so  furiously  on 
fife  and  drum  that  their  martial  "music  and  other  noises" 
scared  off  the  enemy  and  saved  the  town  from  invasion. 

South  of  Cedar  Point,  across  the  mouth  of  Scituate  Harbor, 
is  First  Cliff,  or  in  native  parlance,  'First  Clift.'  This  is 
one  of  four  striking  cliffs  close  together  along  the  shore.  Dr. 
Farrar  Cobb  and  Mr.  George  Walbach  have  handsome  resi- 
dences here.  The  road  to  the  lighthouse  passes  an  old  ship 
high  on  the  beach  at  the  right.  This  is  the  old  pilot  boat 
"Columbia"  which  was  driven  ashore  "the  night  the  Portland 
went  down,"  Nov.  27,  1898.  She  has  been  remodeled  to 
resemble  as  nearly  as  possible  Ham  Peggotty's  home  in 
"David  Copperfield,"  and  is  open  to  visitors  at  a  small  charge. 
Among  the  furnishings  is  a  chair  made  from  the  "Lapwing," 
Daniel  Webster's  boat. 

Still  further  on  the  road  passes  a  strip  of  beach  where  patches 
of  Irish  moss  are  usually  bleaching.  'Mossing'  is  an  industry 
of  considerable  importance  to  the  natives  along  the  coast  from 
Scituate  south  to  Duxbury.  The  moss  is  a  seaweed  which 
grows  on  the  rocks  between  high  and  low  tide.  The  mossers 


R.  30  §  i.      BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  529 

work  from  dories,  taking  it  from  the  rocks  at  low  tide  with 
long-handled  rakes.  It  is  washed  in  tubs,  bleached,  and  dried 
in  the  sun,  its  dark  color  changing  through  tones  of  violet  and 
rose  to  white  during  the  process.  Sometimes  a  family  working 
together  will  make  as  much  as  $1,000  in  a  season  gathering 
and  preparing  the  moss.  The  product  is  used  in  households 
in  preparing  with  milk  the  familiar  blanc  mange.  It  is  also 
used  commercially  in  brewing  and  dyeing. 

The  route  turns  to  the  left  up  a  slight  grade  past  the  town 
landing.  Just  beyond  is  a  picturesque  cluster  of  wharves. 

The  old  town  of  Scituate,  or  Satuit,  has  retained  much  of 
its  oldtime  atmosphere  and  simple  beauty,  and  is  the  summer 
resort  of  many  literary  and  artistic  people.  The  little  store  of 
Charles  W.  Frye,  though  much  remodeled,  contains  timbers 
of  the  original  structure  which  dates  back  117  years.  Before 
that  time  there  was  on  the  spot  a  log  structure,  loop-holed  for 
Indian  fighting.  The  store  has  been  in  the  Otis  family  and 
descendants  since  those  early  days,  and  the  present  owner  is 
a  direct  descendant  of  the  Otises  through  a  daughter  of  the 
store-keeper  of  1812.  In  this  building  was  born  Samuel  Wood- 
worth,  the  author  of  "The  Old  Oaken  Bucket"  (p  530). 

This  coast,  because  of  the  high  contrasting  colors  of  marsh, 
sea,  and  cliffs,  is  a  favorite  resort  of  artists,  who  have  trans- 
formed many  old  barns  in  the  neighborhood  into  studios. 

Scituate  was  settled  on  the  north  end  of  the  Third  Cliff  in  1628  by 
a  company  from  the  County  of  Kent,  England.  From  the  old  Indian 
name  Satuit  was  derived  Seteat  and  finally  Scituate.  Along  the  brook 
there  are  still  ancient  cedar  trees  which  witnessed  the  coming  of  the 
first  settlers.  In  1634  another  company  from  England  under  Parson 
Lothrpp  settled  around  Coleman  Hill,  where  some  Indian  trails  are 
still  visible  but  will  soon  be  obliterated  by  the  Boston  Sand  and  Gravel 
Company's  screening  and  washing  plant.  The  old  burying  ground 
of  this  settlement,  on  Meeting  House  Lane,  is  the  next  oldest  in  the 
State  after  Plymouth.  In  the  same  year  settlers  came  from  Plymouth 
to  Scituate.  The  first  witches  in  New  England  were  discovered  here, 
but  the  judges  refused  to  take  the  matter  over-seriously. 

On  Second  Cliff  are  the  summer  homes  of  a  considerable 
literary  colony,  including  Mrs.  Inez  Haynes  Gillmore;  Will 
Irwin;  Gelett  Burgess,  who  invented  "The  Purple  Cow"  and 
"Goops";  Franklin  P.  Adams,  'F.  P.  A.,'  writer  of  the  "Col- 
yum";  Samuel  Merwin,  who  wrote  weird  stories  of  the  opium 
world;  and  Beatrice  Forbes-Robertson  Hale,  the  suffragette. 
This  was  the  Cliff  loved  by  Jacques  Futrelle,  the  writer,  who 
went  down  in  the  "Titanic"  disaster;  his  charming  home  Step- 
ping Stones  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  on  the  cliff.  The 
Third  Cliff  has  some  all-the-year-round  homes  and  many 
summer  cottages.  All  these  cliffs  are  interesting  geologically 
because  of  their  pre-glacial  age.  They  are  being  rapidly  worn 


530  NORTH   SCITUATE— MARSHFIELD 

away  by  the  sea,  although  serious  attempts  are  being  made  by 
the  cottagers  to  "stem  the  tide." 
The  detour  rejoins  the  State  Road  just  beyond  Greenbush. 

From  North  Scituate  the  State  Road,  with  red  markers, 
crosses  R.R.  and  ascends  a  hill.  To  the  left  is  the  little  village 
of  Egypt.  Near  at  hand,  to  the  left  of  the  road,  is  Dreamwold, 
the  magnificent  estate  of  Thomas  W.  Lawson,  most  spectacular 
of  speculators,  and  author  of  "Frenzied  Finance."  Dream- 
wold  is  famous  not  only  for  Lawson  but  for  its  bulldogs,  prize 
horses,  roses,  and .  chimes.  Mr.  Lawson,  always  ready  to 
publish  his  reasons,  thus  accounts  for  his  coming  to  Egypt: 

"Because  I  knew  the  cosy  beauties  which  nestle  in  Scituate  hollows 
and  rest  upon  Scituate  hills.  Because  I  knew  its  tangled  briars  and 
wild  roses  were  a  bit  more  tangled,  and  lots  wilder  than  in  any  other 
nearby  nook  of  nature.  That  the  shade  of  the  ocean  was  a  shade 
greener,  and  its  white  caps  a  bit  whiter  off  Scituate  coast  than  elsewhere 
available,  and  that  her  fishermen  and  her  mossers  were  in  a  more 
simple,  mossy,  and  lovable  crudity  than  in  any  other  place  that  had 
these  beautiful  things  of  nature  in  combination.  These  were  the 
things  that  brought  Dreamwold  to  Scituate." 

Across  the  road  from  Dreamwold  Hall  is  the  Lawson  Tower 
in  which  are  the  famous  Dreamwold  chimes,  presented  to  Scit- 
uate by  Mr.  Lawson.  An  ugly  iron  standpipe  has  thus  been 
transformed  into  a  tower  of  rare  proportions  and  beauty. 

Greenbush  (30.5)  is  a  quiet  old  village  cherishing  fond  recol- 
lections of  the  Old  Oaken  Bucket,  which  itself  is  presented  to 
view  in  a  Boston  museum. 

On  Pond  St.,  a  little  to  the  west  on  the  slope  of  Walnut  Tree 
Hill,  is  the  "Old  Oaken  Bucket"  homestead.  In  the  front 
yard  still  remain  a  well-sweep  and  a  bucket,  and  nearby  are 
the  "deep  tangled  wild-wood,"  "the  mill,". and  "the  brook." 
Samuel  Woodworth,  it  seems,  was  a  printer  and  sometimes  a 
journalist,  and  like  many  of  his  trade  a  wanderer  and  not 
strictly  '  teetotal.'  It  was  while  he  was  editor  of  the  New  York 
"Mirror"  that  he  wrote  the  song  which  is  his  only  claim  to 
remembrance.  He  had  just  taken  a  drink  of  cognac  with  a 
friend,  and  as  he  set  down  the1  glass  he  declared  that  it  was  the 
finest  drink  in  the  world.  "There  you  are  mistaken,"  said 
his  comrade.  "Don't  you  remember  the  old  oaken  bucket  and 
the  clear  cold  water  of  the  old  well?"  At  this  reminder  of  his 
childhood,  it  is  said,  "tears  rushed  to  his  eyes,  he  left  the  room, 
and  with  a  heart  overflowing  with  the  recollections  of  his  inno- 
cent childhood  he  set  down  the  words  that  welled  up  from  a 
full  heart  and  that  have  become  so  dear  to  many  others." 

Robert  Haven  Schauffler,  the  optimistic  essayist,  has  his  villa 
Arden  here,  and  on  the  banks  of  Herring  Brook  in  the  woods 
nearby  a  log  cabin  studio. 


R.  30  §  i.     BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  531 

The  bridge  over  the  meandering  North  River  just  beyond 
Greenbush  was  the  scene  at.  the  time  of  King  Philip's  War  of 
a  sanguinary  encounter.  Here  there  stood  a  mill  upon  which 
the  people  were  dependent  for  grist.  The  Stockb ridge  house 
nearby  was  fortified  to  protect  the  mill.  Across  the  marshes 
to  the  south  is  the  Fourth  Cliff,  which  the  great  storm  of  1898 
made  an  island,  leaving  a  channel  forty  feet  wide  and  twenty 
feet  deep  where  before  had  been  dry  land. 

Beyond  the  bridge  the  road  forks.  The  State  Highway 
marked  by  red  bands  on  poles  and  posts  bears  to  the  left. 

Note.  The  righthand  road,  somewhat  shorter,  runs  inland 
through  the  attractive  village  of  Marshfield  Hills.  On  High- 
land St.,  the  road  to  Norwell,  are  an  old  blockhouse,  now  the 
residence  of  Rev.  Dr.  Henry  Nelson,  and  the  home  of  Lysander 
S.  Richards,  whose  wellknown  apple  orchard  of  800  trees  is 
the  largest  on  the  South  Shore.  On  the  old  John  Rogers  place 
are  still  living  the  ninth  generation  of  the  original  settlers. 

The  State  Road  commands  views  over  the  extensive  marshes. 
Sea  View  is  the  station  for  the  summer  colony  at  Humarock 
Beach,  whose  fine  white  sand  extends  for  nine  miles  south  to 
Brant  Rock.  Just  before  reaching  the  Marshfield  Center 
station  the  road  to  the  left,  around  Telegraph  Hill,  leads  to  a 
point  commanding  an  extended  and  beautiful  view  over  the 
Duxbury  marshes  to  Plymouth.  Telegraph  Hill,  locally 
known  as  Snake  Hill,  has  no  snakes,  but  a  summer  colony 
of  ministers.  On  this  hill  is  the  house  of  Peregrine  White, 
born  on  the  "Mayflower"  as  she  lay  in  Cape  Cod  Bay.  The 
ridge  of  pine  and  evergreen  forest  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  most 
healthful  localities  in  this  region. 

Crossing  R.R.  at  the  Marshfield  Center  station  we  continue 
straight  ahead  to 

37.5  MARSHFIELD.  Alt  24  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1738  (1910),  1725 
(1915).  Plymouth  Co.  Settled  1641.  Mfg.  boxes;  market- 
gardening. 

This  ancient  town,  made  famous  by  the  residence  of  Daniel 
Webster,  has  a  fertile  soil,  and  progressive  farmers  have  made 
Marshfield  strawberries  famous.  During  the  season  a  co- 
operative society  of  farmers  ship  their  '  truck '  to  market  every 
night  by  automobiles  owned  by  the  society.  The  Fair  Grounds 
on  the  left  before  entering  the  village  are  the  scene  of  the 
annual  fair,  an  event  of  surpassing  importance  in  the  summer 
season  of  this  region.  A  monument  to  Webster  stands  in  the 
triangle  near  the  church  where  our  road  turns  to  the  right. 
Beyond  the  village  we  cross  South  River. 


53 2  MARSHFIELD 

Detour  to  the  Home  of  Daniel  Webster. 

Where  the  State  Road  turns  right  with  red  markers,  keep 
straight  on  to  R.R.  The  road  straight  ahead  leads  out  on 
Marshfield  Neck  across  the  marshes  along  the  shore  to  Brant 
Rock.  Turning  sharp  right  at  the  station,  we  reach  the  Daniel 
Webster  place  (1.5).  The  site  overlooks  the  broad  marshes  of 
Green  Harbor  River  and  the  sea.  The  house  of  the  great  orator 
was  burned  down  in  1878,  but  its  exact  site  is  marked  by  a 
boulder,  erected  in  1914  by  the  Boston  University  Law  School 
Association.  The  present  mansion  stands  near  the  former  one, 
and  the  little  building  under  the  shadow  of  great  trees  by  the 
side  of  the  avenue  nearly  opposite  the  house  was  often  used 
by  Webster  as  his  rural  study  and  is  the  only  structure  spared 
by  the  flames.  Near  the  house  are  two  large  elms  planted  by 
Webster  at  the  birth  of  his  son,  Edward,  and  his  daughter,  Julia. 
He  always  referred  to  these  trees  as  "brother"  and  "sister." 

In  the  corner  of  the  yard  set  off  by  an  iron  fence  is  the  family  grave- 
yard. The  tomb  of  the  statesman  is  a  mound  of  earth  surmounted 
by  a  marble  slab  bearing  this  inscription,  "Daniel  Webster,  born 
January  18,  1782;  Died  October  24,  1852.  Lord  I  believe:  help  thou 
mine  unbelief. 

"Philosophical  argument,  especially  that  drawn  from  the  vastness 
of  the  universe  in  comparison  with  the  insignificance  of  this  globe  has 
sometimes  shaken  my  reason  for  the  faith  that  is  in  me;  but  my  heart 
has  always  assured  and  re-assured  me  that  the  gospel  of  Jesus  Christ 
must  be  a  divine  reality.  The  Sermon  on  the  Mount  cannot  be  a  mere 
human  production.  This  belief  enters  into  the  very  depth  of  my 
conscience.  The  whole  history  of  man  proves  it." 

At  his  father's  right  is  his  son,  Major  Edward  Webster,  who  died 
in  Taylor's  Mexican  Campaign  of  1848.  The  stone  over  another  son 
bears  this  inscription: 

"Colonel  Fletcher  Webster,  i2th  Massachusetts  Volunteers,  son  of 
Daniel  and  Grace  Fletcher  Webster;  born  in  Portsmouth,  New  Hamp- 
shire, 25th  July,  1813;  fell  at  the  head  of  his  regiment  on  the  old  bat- 
tlefield of  Bull  Run,  Virginia,  August  30,  1862." 

Daniel  Webster,  New  England's  most  vivid  great  man,  first  came 
to  Marshfield  in  1831  and  bought  the  old  Thomas  homestead,  but  he 
was  possessed  of  land  hunger  and  kept  adding  farm  to  farm  until,  at 
his  death,  he  had  here  an  estate  of  nearly  1800  acres.  He  was  a  sci- 
entific farmer,  and  did  much  to  teach  the  farmers  about  here  the  proper 
use  of  the  soil,  how  to  fertilize  it  with  the  abundance  of  kelp  which  was 
easily  obtained  from  the  sea,  and  the  value  of  the  rotation  of  crops. 
He  was  a  lover  of  cattle  and  his  holdings  were  well  stocked  with  blooded 
herds.  He  was  extremely  fond  of  angling,  and  it  is  said  that  a  trout 
was  the  first  to  hear  the  exclamation  which  later  added  luster  to  his 
name  at  Bunker  Hill:  "Venerable  men,  you  have  come  down  to  us 
from  a  former  generation.  Heaven  has  bounteously  lengthened  out 
your  lives  that  you  might  behold  this  joyous  day." 

He  had  an  eye  for  the  picturesque  in  costume.  "At  dinner  or 
holding  a  levee,  he  always  looked  the  gentleman  superbly;  when  out 
upon  a  fishing  excursion,  he  could  not  be  taken  for  anything  but  an 
angler,  and  when  on  a  shooting  frolic,  he  was  a  genuine  rustic  Nimrod." 
He  was  once  tramping  over  the  Marshfield  meadows  shooting  when  he 
encountered  a  couple  of  Boston  sporting  snobs,  who  were  stuck  in  the 


R.  30   §   I.     BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  533 

mud.  Not  knowing  Webster  but  seeing  that  he  was  strong  and  stal- 
wart, they  begged  him  to  carry  them,  one  by  one  on  his  back,  to  dry 
land,  which  he  readily  did.  He  accepted  the  quarter  which  they  prof- 
fered for  his  trouble.  Then  they  inquired  if  "Old  Webster  was  likely 
to  be  at  home,"  as  they  might  call.  Mr.  Webster  replied  that  the 
gentleman  alluded  to  was  not  at  home  just  then,  but  would  be  so  soon 
as  he  could  walk  to  the  house,  and  then  added  that  he  would  be  glad 
to  see  them  at  dinner. 

Further  on  to  the  left,  on  the  road  to  Green  Harbor,  is  Cares- 
well,  the  old  Winslow  estate.  The  present  quaint  low-roofed 
house  stands  on  the  site  of  the  house  built  by  Governor  Josiah 
Winslow  of  Plymouth  Colony.  A  boulder  with  a  bronze  tab- 
let and  pointer  near  the  house  indicates  the  site  of  the  residence 
of  Governors  Edward  and  Josiah  Winslow. 

In  the  Winslow  burying  ground  was  buried  Peregrine  White, 
the  first  white  child  born  in  New  England.  The  Winslow 
tomb,  marked  by  a  brown  stone  slab  supported  by  stone 
pillars,  has  the  Winslow  arms  and  bears  this  inscription: 

"Governor  Josiah  Winslow,  the  first  native-born  Governor  of  Plym- 
outh Colony,  who  died  in  1680;  his  wife  Penelope;  the  Honorable 
John  Winslow,  a  major-general  in  the  British  army,  and  the  officer 
who  removed  the  French  Acadians  from  their  country;  the  Honor- 
able Isaac  Winslow,  Esq;  with  later  and  less  distinguished  members 
of  the  family." 

Governor  Edward  Winslow's  marriage  to  Susannah  White  occurred 
here  in  Marshfield  in  the  spring  of  1621  and  was  the  first  marriage  in 
the  new  colony.  The  Governor  was  a  powerful  figure  of  the  time. 
He  won  the  lasting  friendship  of  Massasoit,  did  much  to  alleviate  the 
sufferings  of  the  colonists  on  several  occasions,  and  was  seni  to  Eng- 
land to  represent  Plymouth  and  Massachusetts  Bay  and  defend  it  from 
attack.  During  the  Commonwealth  he  remained  nine  years  in  Eng- 
land holding  a  minor  office  under  Cromwell  and  was  sent  as  an  ambas- 
sador to  Denmark.  Later. he  headed  a  commission  to  the  West  Indies, 
but  died  at  sea  on  the  way  to  Jamaica.  He  was  a  writer  of  some 
ability  and  has  left  a  number  of  books.  His  son  Josiah  became  the 
first  native  born  Governor  of  the  colony. 

Of  Green  Harbor  (2.5)  Governor  Bradford  remarks  in  his 
Journal:  "A  plase  very  well  meadowed  and  fitt  t'o  keep  and 
rear  cattle,  good  store."  The  land  here  was  granted  to  Edward 
Winslow.  A  settlement  was  first  made  on  the  site  of  Green 
Harbor  Village  on  the  road  to  Brant  Rock  in  1638.  This  is 
the  R.R.  station  for  Brant  Rock,  a  thriving  and  popular  sum- 
mer colony  of  some  hundreds  of  small  cottages.  On  the  Brant 
Rock  road  at  the  corner  of  Rexham  Terrace  is  the  house  built 
and  occupied  by  Kenelm  Winslow,  Governor  Josiah's  brother. 

The  detour  passes  under  R.R.  and  rejoins  the  main  route. 

From  Marshfield  the  State  Road  crosses  Duck  Hill  River  to 
the  little  village  of  Millbrook  east  of  the  broad  expanse  of  the 
Duxbury  marshes,  across  which  are  seen  the  tall  aerials  of  the 
wireless  station  at  Brant  Rock  and  the  Standish  monument  on 


534  MARSHFIELD— DUXBURY 

Captain's  Hill,  Duxbury.  A  half  mile  beyond  at  the  four 
corners  the  State  Road,  with  red  markers,  continues  straight 
ahead  inland  to  Island  Creek  and  Kingston. 

Detour  to  Duxbury  and  Powder  Point. 

Turning  sharp  to  the  left  cross  R.R.  at  Duxbury  Station. 

3.0  DUXBURY.  Alt  31  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1688  (1910),  1921  (1915). 
Plymouth  Co.  Settled  1630.  Indian  name  Mattakeeset. 

Duxbury  was  named  for  Duxborough  Hall,  the  home  of  the 
Standish  family  in  England,  for  Miles  Standish  early  left  the 
Plymouth  Colony  and  established  himself  here. 

In  the  last  decade  the  native  agricultural  and  fishing  popula- 
tion has  dwindled,  but  the  development  of  the  summer  and 
residential  colony  has  grown.  On  the  street  leading  from  the 
station  is  the  Wright  Memorial  Library,  and  directly  opposite 
on  the  left  is  the  Wright  estate,  one  of  the  finest  on  the  South 
Shore.  Near  the  station  is  the  Alden  house,  a  gray  shingled 
structure  on  a  grassy  knoll  overlooking  the  Blue  Fish  river. 
It  is  about  two  hundred  and  forty  years  old  and  was  built  by 
a  grandson  of  John  and  Priscilla.  Here  John  Alden,  after  his 
marriage  with  Priscilla  Mullens  whose  home  had  been  in 
Barnstable  (p  546),  built  his  house  in  1631.  It  is  now  the  prop- 
erty of  the  Alden  Kindred  Association.  The  brown  house  on 
the  right  a  little  further  on  is  the  telegraph  office  for  the  Atlantic 
Cable  from  Brest,  France.  It  comes  to  land  on  the  beach  a 
mile  and  a  half  away.  The  landing  of  the  cable  in  1869  was 
celebrated  with  elaborate  public  ceremonies. 

Note.  The  road  straight  on  leads  to  the  Powder  Point  peninsula, 
the  center  of  gayety  in  summer  time  and  of  educational  effort  in  the 
winter,  for  here  is  the  Powder  Point  School  for  Boys.  From  the  tip 
of  the  peninsula  a  long  pile  bridge  leads  to  Duxbury  Beach,  six  miles 
long,  the  finest  of  the  Old  Colony.  At  its  southern  end  is  the  Gurnet, 
a  bluff  eighty  feet  high,  on  which  are  the  Twin  Gurnet  Lights  and  a 
Life  Saving  Station.  The  Gurnet  is  geologically  pre-glacial  and  prob- 
ably the  same  age  as  the  Third  Cliff  at  Scituate.  Halfway  from  the 
bridge  to  the  Gurnet  is  a  low  hill  of  the  same  formation  entirely  sur- 
rounded by  sand,  on  which  are  found  both  fauna  and  flora  of  typical 
southern  varieties  not  elsewhere  found  so  far  north.  At  low  tide  are 
exposed  vast  areas  of  mud  flats  from  which  come  the  famous  Duxbury 
clams.  A  recent  article  in  the  "New  York  Times"  says  that  the  Dux- 
bury  singing  clams  "have  been  the  greatest  attraction  of  Duxbury 
since  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims,"  but  although  the  clams  have  long 
been  known  for  their  excellent  flavor,  their  vocal  ability  seems  to  await 
development  until  arrival  in  New  York. 

From  the  telegraph  office  we  turn  at  right  angles  to  the  south 
across  Blue  Fish  River  through  the  quiet  shaded  streets  of 
Duxbury.  At  the  line  between  Duxbury  and  South  Duxbury 
a  large  English  privet  hedge  on  the  left  encloses  the  estate 
formerly  owned  and  occupied  by  Fannie  Davenport,  the  fa- 


R.  30  §   I.     BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  535 

mous  actress.  South  Duxbury,  a  mile  south,  is  the  old  part 
of  the  town.  Stretching  back  inshore  are  the  hamlets  of 
Tinkertown,  Tarkiln,  and  Ashdod. 

The  road  to  the  left  leads  out  to  Captain's  Hill,  surmounted 
by  the  Standish  Monument,  a  conspicuous  landmark  all  along 
this  coast.  At  the  foot  of  Captain's  Hill  is  the  Standish  cot- 
tage, built  by  Alexander,  the  son  of  Miles  Standish,  in  part 
from  materials  of  his  father's  house  after  it  burned  down,  the 
cellar  of  which  is  near  at  hand.  It  is  a  long,  low,  gambrel- 
roofed  structure,  the  broad  chimney  showing  the  date  1666. 

Captain's  Hill  rises  abruptly  from  the  Nook  200  feet  and 
the  monument  rises  no  feet  higher.  It  was  built  in  1872  at 
a  cost  of  $60,000.  The  keystone  of  the  entrance  was  pre- 
sented by  President  Grant. 
The  view  is  magnificent.  Im- 
mediately before  us  in  the  Bay 
is  Clark's  Island,  where  the 
exploring  shallop  from  the 
"  Mayflower  "  landed  to  spend 
the  Sabbath.  This  is  com- 
memorated by  the  inscription 
"On  the  Sabbath  Day  We 
Rested"  on  the  flat  rock  near 

the  middle  of  the  Island^  Be-  THE  STANDISH  COTTAGE>  DUXBURY 
yond  is  Duxbury  Beach,  the 

Gurnet,  named  after  a  promontory  near  Plymouth,  England, 
from  which  a  long  sandbar,  Saquish,  an  Indian  term  signifying 
an  abundance  of  clams,  curves  landward. 

From  South  Duxbury  cross  R.R.  To  the  right  is  the  old 
graveyard  where  "  the  rude  forefathers  of  the  hamlet  sleep." 
The  most  ancient  headstones  are  now  dilapidated;  yet  on  one 
of  them  may  be  read  the  words,  "Here  lyes  ye  body  of  Deacon 
William  Brewster,  who  departed  this  life  Novbr  ye  3d,  1723, 
aged  nearly  78  years."  Here  also  lie  John  and  Priscilla  Alden, 
and  Miles  Standish  and  his  two  wives.  Miles  Standish's 
grave  is  in  the  center  of  the  cemetery,  easily  identified  by  four 
cannon  and  a  boulder.  On  one  of  the  headstones  is  the  follow- 
ing epitaph:  "  Aseneath  Soule.  The  chisel  can't  help  her  any." 

Just  beyond,  the  road  rejoins  the  State  Highway,  the  main 
route  from  Marshfield.  The  road  overlooks  Kingston  Bay, 
and  crosses  Island  Creek  with  its  salt  meadows  to  the  quiet 
little  hamlet  of  Island  Creek.  Near  here  is  a  model  dairy 
farm,  evidence  of  what  scientific  cultivation  of  apparently 
worthless  soil  will  do  to  produce  prolific  crops.  The  road 
curves  inland  at  an  elevation. 

As  we  approach  Kingston  before  crossing  R.R.  two  turns 


536  DUXBURY— PLYMOUTH 

to  the  left  into  Bradford  Lane  bring  us  to  a  tablet  marking 
the  site  of  the  Bradford  house,  built  by  Plymouth's  second 
Governor  as  early  as  1637.  It  stands  behind  the  house  over- 
looking the  meadows  to  Captain's  Hill,  where  his  friends 
Miles  Standish  and  Elder  Brewster  lived.  Bradford  may 
dispute  with  Samuel  Fuller,  the  Old  Colony's  first  physician, 
the  distinction  of  being  the  first  summer  resident  along  the 
South  Shore.  His  son,  Major  William  Bradford,  afterward 
occupied  this  house,  and  Bradfords  continued  to  be  numerous 
here  until  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century. 

45.5  KINGSTON.  Pop  (twp)  2445  (1910),  2580  (1915).  Plymouth 
Co.  Settled  1637.  Mfg.  tacks  and  hardware. 

Kingston  is  a  restful  old  town,  long  known  as  the  'North 
End  of  Plymouth,'  in  the  midst  of  salt  meadows  about  the 
Jones  river.  Fine  old  mansions  line  the  main  streets  completely 
overarched  by  towering  elms.  Rocky  Nook  and  Seaside  are 
pretty  summer  settlements  on  the  shore. 

The  Major  John  Bradford  house  on  a  high  embankment 
near  the  river  is  the  most  interesting  landmark.  For  years 
the  precious  manuscript,  the  "Bradford  History  of  Plymouth," 
remained  in  this  house. 

In  1728  Major  John  Bradford  gave  Dr.  Prince  the  Bradford  papers, 
and  authorized  him  to  reclaim  the  History  from  Judge  Sewall  and 
deposit  it  in  the  Old  South  Church.  It  disappeared  in  Revolutionary 
days,  but  fifty  years  later  was  discovered  in  the  library  of  Fulham 
Palace.  The  original  of  the  "Log  of  the  Mayflower,"  by  William 
Bradford,  is  now  in  the  capital  of  the  Old  Bay  State,  by  the  courtesy 
of  the  Bishop  of  London.  On  May  26,  1897,  Governor  Roger  Wolcott 
on  receiving  it  from  Mr.  Bayard,  then  Ambassador  to  England,  said, 
"In  this  precious  volume  which  I  hold  in  my  hands — the  gift  of  Eng- 
land to  the  Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts — is  told  the  whole  simple 
story  of  'Plimouth  Plantation.'" 

Kingston,  lying  about  the  "very  pleasant  river"  which  the  Pilgrim 
leaders  explored,  and  named  for  Captain  Jones  of  the  "Mayflower," 
occupies  the  territory  which  they  had  "a  great  liking  to  plant  in," 
instead  of  Plymouth,  but  decided  against  because  it  lay  too  far  from 
their  fishing,  and  was  "so  encompassed  with  woods"  that  they  feared 
danger  from  the  savages.  It  was  one  of  the  earliest  places  occupied, 
however,  upon  the  "flowing  of  many  people  into  the  country,"  which, 
Bradford  tells  us,  caused  cattle  and  corn  to  rise  to  a  great  price.  "No 
man  now  thought  he  could  live  except  he  had  cattle  &  a  great  deal 
of  grounde  to  keep  them.  ...  So  there  was  no  longer  holding  them  to- 
gether, but  they  must  of  necessity  goe  to  their  great  lots,"  and  they 
"scattered  all  over  ye  bay." 

Between  Kingston  and  Plymouth  the  highway  is  a  dirt 
road  but  kept  in  good  shape.  Just  before  entering  Plymouth, 
to  the  left  are  the  extensive  ropewalks  of  the  Plymouth  Cord- 
age Company,  the  largest  concern  of  the  kind  in  the  country, 
employing  2000  hands  with  an  output  of  $10,000,000  a  year. 
Its  steamers  bring  direct  to  Plymouth  sisal  from  Yucatan,  and 
it  imports  quantities  of  manila  from  the  Philippines. 


R.  30  §   I.     BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  537 

50.0     PLYMOUTH.     Alt   38  ft.     Pop    (twp)    12,141    (1910),   12,926 
(1915).     Shire  town  of  Plymouth  Co.     Settled  1620.     Indian 
name    Patuxet.    Port    of   Entry.     Mfg.    cordage,    woolens, 
tacks,  stoves,  rubber  goods,  insulated  wire;  cranberry  market. 
Value  of  Product  (1913),  $14,374,000;  Payroll,  $1,376,000. 
Plymouth  is  to  all  Americans  a  shrine  hallowed  by  its  his- 
tory and  associations.     "Here  are  places  and  objects  so  inti- 
mately associated  with  the  world's  greatest  men  or  with  mighty 
deeds,"  said  Governor  Roger  Wolcott,  "that  the  soul  of  him 
who  gazes  upon  them  is  lost  in  a  sense  of  reverent  awe,  as  it 
listens  to  the  voice  that  speaks  from  the  past."     Plymouth  is 
not,  however,  dependent  upon  its  100,000  annual  visitors,  for 
the  hamlet  of  the  Forefathers  is  the  seat  of  important  indus- 
tries that  have  brought  pilgrims  of  a  later  day,  Italians,  Poles, 
Swedes,  and  Portuguese,  to  its  factories.     The  coming  tercen- 
tenary in  1920  of  the  Pilgrims'  landing  has  greatly  stimulated 
the  hopes  of  Plymouth  citizens  for  State  and  federal  aid  for 
improvements  of  the  town's  waterfront. 

The  harbor,  although  shallow  in  the  main,  has  three  channels 
1 8  feet  deep  at  low  water  and  is  still  being  improved  to  ac- 
commodate large  ocean  steamers.  The  annual  foreign  im- 
ports have  a  value  of  about  $7,000,000  so  that  Plymouth 
ranks  directly  next  to  Boston  as  a  port  of  entry  in  Massachu- 
setts. As  the  nearest  harbor  to  the  Cape  Cod  Canal,  Plym- 
outh is  expecting  an  increase  of  commerce  and  industries  as 
soon  as  the  advantages  of  this  new  canal  enterprise  are  real- 
ized, looo  acres  of  flats  in  the  harbor  are  now  planted  with 
clams.  Nothing  of  the  product  is  wasted.  The  clams  are 
graded  as  carefully  as  Western  apples;  the  shells  are  used  for 
poultry-feeding  and  road-making,  and  the  canning  furnishes 
clam  bouillon  as  a  by-product.  By  this  economic  handling 
a  profit  of  $5oo-$75o  an  acre  is  readily  obtainable.  Brook 
trout  for  market  and  spawn  for  the  supply  of  streams  through- 
out New  England  are  raised  on  a  large  scale.  Cranberry  cult- 
ure of  1 200  acres  of  bog  produces  upward  of  $300,000  worth 
annually,  and  Plymouth  markets  one  fourth  of  the  entire 
cranberry  crop  of  the  United  States. 

Entering  the  town  on  Court  St.,  the  National  Monument  to 
the  Forefathers  rises  from  a  hill  to  the  right,  one  block  distant 
on  Allerton  St.  It  is  81  feet  high,  of  Maine  granite,  completed 
in  1889,  thirty  years  after  the  cornerstone  was  laid.  The  sur- 
mounting statue,  36  feet  high,  represents  Faith,  and  below  on 
buttresses  are  monolith  seated  figures  of  Morality,  Law,  Edu- 
cation, and  Freedom.  Below  alto-reliefs  illustrate  scenes  of 
early  Pilgrim  history,  and  panels  give  the  names  of  the  "May- 
flower" company.  The  view  from  the  hill  is  beautiful.  Below 
lie  Plymouth  and  the  circle  of  Plymouth  Bay,  its  northern 


538  PLYMOUTH 

headland,  Captain's  Hill,  with  the  Standish  monument  crown- 
ing its  peak,  the  Gurnet  stretching  along  the  outer  harbor,  and 
to  the  south  the  bold  bluffs  of  Manomet. 

Further  along  Court  St.,  on  the  left  at  the  corner  of  Chilton 
St.  is  Pilgrim  Hall,  with  a  Doric  portico,  built  by  the  Pilgrim 
Society  in  1824.  (Open  daily.  Adm.  25  cents.) 

It  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  relics  of  the  Pilgrims.  On 
the  walls  are  a  number  of  large  canvases,  more  notable  for  their  sub- 
jects than  their  art,  depicting  scenes  connected  with  the  early  settle- 
ment. Here,  too,  are  the  ample  armchairs  of  Governor  Carver  and 
Elder  Brewster  and  a  little  Dutch  cradle  in  which  Peregrine  White 
(p  533).  the  first  Pilgrim  child,  was  rocked.  Case  A  contains  relics  of 
Peregrine  White.  In  Case  B  is  John  Alden's  Bible,  with  the  date 
1661,  and  Elder  Brewster's  christening  bowl.  Case  C  contains  the 
famous  sword  of  Miles  Standish,  "This  is  the  sword  of  Damascus  I 
fought  with  in  Flanders."  It  bears  two  ancient  inscriptions  in  Cufic 
and  Arabic.  A  sampler  worked  by  his  daughter  has  this  verse: 
"Lorea  Standish  is  my  name, 

Lord,  guide  my  hart  that  I  may  doe  Thy  will; 

Also  fill  my  hands  with  such  convenient  skill 

As  will  conduce  to  virtue  void  of  shame, 

And  I  will  give  the  glory  to  thy  name." 

In  Case  J  are  many  valuable  books,  including  John  Eliot's  Indian  Bible 
of  1685,  of  which  there  are  but  four  extant,  and  a  "Breeches"  Bible 
of  1599.  Case  K  contains  relics  of  the  Winslows,  and  Case  L  swords 
of  Governor  Carver  and  Elder  Brewster,  and  a  record  of  the  sale  of  a 
negro  boy,  Plymouth,  1753.  In  the  annex  is  a  valuable  library,  many 
old  portraits,  and  a  model  of  the  "Mayflower."  At  the  head  of  the 
main  hall,  in  a  case  by  itself,  is  the  Colonial  patent,  or  charter,  1621, 
the  oldest  State  document  in  New  England  if  not  in  America. 

Opposite  the  Court  House  on  Russell  St.  is  the  new  Reg- 
istry Building,  which  contains  the  first  records  of  the  Colony. 
Behind  the  Court  House  is  the  old  County  Prison. 

Turning  left  on  North  St.  to  the  waterfront,  on  the  corner 
of  Winslow  St.,  under  spreading  lindens  planted  in  1760,  is  the 
Winslow  mansion,  with  a  beautifully  carved  doorway,  built 
in  1734  by  Edward,  then  head  of  the  family. 

On  the  waterfront  at  the  foot  of  North  St.  to  the  right  is 
Plymouth  Rock,  covered  by  a  granite  canopy  of  incongruous 
architecture.  In  a  chamber  on  the  top  of  the  canopy  are 
preserved  some  osseous  remains  which  were  brought  to  light 
in  the  exploration  of  Cole's  Hill,  the  first  burying  ground  of 
the  Pilgrims.  No  "rock  bound  coast"  is  near,  only  what  was 
once  a  low  sandy  shore  at  the  base  of  a  low  bluff,  now  rather  an 
unkempt  region  of  wharves.  The  Rock  itself  is  not  a  part 
of  some  huge  cliff,  but  an  oval  glacial  boulder  of  greenish 
syenite,  with  a  bulk  of  about  seven  tons. 

It  was  not  till  1741  when  a  wharf  was  built  over  it  that  the  Rock 
was  publicly  identified  as  the  landing  place  of  the  first  boatload  of 
Pilgrims.  Then  Thomas  Faunce  (1646-1745),  whose  father,  John,  had 
come  over  in  the  "Ann"  in  1623,  at  the  age  of  95  told  the  story  of 
the  Rock  as  he  had  heard  it  from  his  father  and  other  Pilgrims.  We 


R.  30  §   I.     BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  539 

know  that  Elder  Faunce  spoke  thus  because  Mrs.  White,  who  died  in 
1810  at  95,  and  Deacon  Spooner,  who  died  in  1818  at  83,  transmitted  this 
testimony  to  the  orator  of  Forefathers'  Day  in  1817. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution  in  1775  the  upper  portion,  split 
off  by  frost,  was  moved  to  the  town  square  and  placed  at  the  foot  of 
the  Liberty  Pole.  On  the  Fourth  of  July  in  1834  the  Rock  was  re- 
moved to  a  position  in  front  of  Pilgrim  Hall,  where  it  remained  for 
forty-six  years.  In  1880  it  was  replaced  in  its  present  position  and  the 
two  fragments  re-united  after  a  separation  of  over  a  century.  It  was 
at  this  time  that  the  canopy  was  erected.  The  tradition  of  Mary 
Chilton's  being  the  first  to  set  foot  on  the  Rock  is  groundless,  also  the 
claim  that  John  Alden  was  among  the  first.  The  "landing,"  on  Decem- 
ber 21,  was  that  of  the  exploring  party  of  "ten  of  their  principal  men" 
with  two  of  the  "hired  seamen"  and  six  others  of  the  crew,  leaving 
the  company  aboard  the  "Mayflower"  at  what  is  now  Provincetown. 
When  the  "Mayflower"  arrived  at  Provincetown,  December  26,  it 
continued  to  be  the  headquarters  while  the  homes  were  being  erected, 
and  it  was  not  until  the  following  March  that  the  whole  company  were 
transferred  to  the  shore. 

Behind  the  Rock  a  broad  flight  of  steps  leads  up  the  slope 
of  Cole's  Hill.  Here  "in  the  little  field  overlooking  the  sea" 
during  that  first  sad  winter  were  buried  half  the  little  band, 
the  graves  being  leveled  and  in  the  spring  planted  with  corn 
that  the  Indians  might  not  know  the  extent  of  their  loss.  At 
various  times  parts  of  skeletons  have  here  been  brought  to 
light,  which  have  been  pronounced  to  be  Caucasian  and  un- 
doubtedly those  of  the  Pilgrims.  During  Colonial  and  Revo- 
lutionary times  and  up  to  the  War  of  1812  this  was  the  site 
of  a  battery.  "Mourt's  Relation"  tells  concisely  the  story 
of  that  winter:  "This  month  [March]  thirteen  of  our  number 
die.  And  in  three  months  past  dies  half  our  company — the 
greatest  part  in  the  depth  of  winter,  wanting  houses  and  other 
comforts,  being  afflicted  with  the  scurvy  and  other  diseases 
which  their  long  voyage  and  unaccommodate  condition 
brought  upon  them,  so  as  there  die  sometimes  two  or  three  a 
day.  Of  a  hundred  persons  scarce  fifty  remaining;  the  living 
scarce  able  to  bury  the  dead." 

Continuing  along  the  waterfront  we  come  to  Leyden  St.,  the 
first  street  laid  out  in  New  England,  and  named,  in  1823,  from 
the  hospitable  town  in  Holland  where  the  Pilgrims  once  lived. 
Here  just  below  the  corner  of  Carver  and  Leyden  Sts.  was 
erected  the  first  building,  the  "Common  House,"  a  thatched 
log  hut  about  twenty  feet  square.  A  bronze  tablet  now  marks 
its  site.  The  new  Federal  Building,  containing  the  customs 
house  and  the  post  office  stands  on  the  land  allotted  to 
William  Brewster.  At  the  corner  of  Main  St.,  the  Governor 
Bradford  Building  is  on  the  spot  where  stood  the  house  of 
Gov.  Wm.  Bradford.  Opposite  is  the  Pilgrim  Spring,  but  now 
pumped  from  the  original  source  to  the  granite  fountain. 
Here  the  street  widens  into  Town  Square,  shaded  by  noble 


540  PLYMOUTH 

elms  planted  in  1784,  and  here  is  the  Congregational  Church, 
known  as  the  "Church  of  the  Pilgrimage."  The  tablet  on 
the  front  of  the  church  is  inscribed  in  grateful  memory  to  those 
"who,  at  the  time  of  the  Unitarian  controversy  in  1801,  ad- 
hered to  the  belief  of  the  Fathers."  Opposite  is  the  old  Town 
House  built  in  1749  as  a  Court  House.  At  the  head  of  the 
square  is  the  modern  stone  church,  the  front  of  which  is  marked 
with  bronze  tablets  designating  it  as  "The  First  Church  in 
Plymouth"  and  the  lineal  descendant  of  the  Pilgrim  church, 
though  not  of  the  faith.  In  the  belfry  hangs  the  old  town  bell 
cast  by  Paul  Revere. 

On  Burial  Hill  beyond  and  above  Town  Square  repose  the 
remains  of  descendants  of  those  who  survived  the  first  winter 
and  a  few  of  the  original  settlers.  "In  one  field  a  great  hill, 
on  which  we  point  to  make  a  platform  and  plant  our  ord- 
nance, which  will  command  all  round  about.  From  thence 
we  may  see  into  the  bay  and  far  into  the  sea."  Marble  tablets 
mark  the  location  of  the  Old  Fort  and  Watch  Tower.  Here 
Captain  Miles  Standish  built  his  solid  timber  fort,  twenty  by 
twenty,  in  January,  1621.  The  next  year  a  larger  one  "both 
strong  and  comly,  which  was  of  good  defence"  was  erected,  as 
Bradford  tells  us,  "with  a  flate  rofe  &  battlements,"  on  which 
were  mounted  six  cannon.  This  survived  also  as  a  meeting 
house.  At  the  time  of  King  Philip's  War  (1675-76)  a  third 
and  more  formidable  structure  was  erected,  palisaded  and 
surrounded  by  a  ditch.  Here,  after  the  war  ended,  King 
Philip's  head  was  long  exposed  upon  its  battlements,  as  that 
of  Wittuwamat,  a  chief  killed  by  Standish  in  a  hot  duel  at 
Weymouth  in  1623,  had  been  displayed  above  the  walls  of  the 
earlier  fort.  The  Bradford  Obelisk  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  was 
placed  in  1835  on  the  site  of  Governor  Bradford's  grave. 

The  gravestones  here  are  worthy  of  attention.  The  oldest,  1681, 
is  that  in  memory  of  a  wealthy  merchant,  Edward  Gray.  Some  of 
the  stones,  which  were  imported  from  England,  are  later  than  the 
date  indicated,  as  that  inscribed:  "Here  ended  the  Pilgrimage  of 
John  Howland  who  died  February  23,  1672-3." 

On  the  westerly  slope  of  the  hill  is  a  monument  inscribed  to:  "Sev- 
enty-two seamen,  who  perished  in  Plymouth  Harbor,  on  the  26th  and 
27th  days  of  December,  1778,  on  board  the  private  armed  brig,  Gen- 
eral Arnold,  of  twenty  guns,  James  Magee,  of  Boston,  Commander; 
sixty  of  whom  were  buried  in  this  spot." 

On  the  easterly  slope  are  a  number  of  stones  commemorating  those 
who  died  at  a  tender  age.     One  to  a  child  aged  one  month  reads: 
"He  glanced  into  our  world  to  see 

A  sample  of  our  miserie." 

A  little  to  the  north  another  commemorates  four  children: 
"Stop,  Traveller  and  shed  a  tear 
Upon  the  fate  of  children  dear." 

On  the  south  slope  the  coffin-shaped  tombstone  of  Fannie  Crombie 
bears  her  portrait  (?)  and  the  touching  lines: 


R.  30  §   i.     BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH  541 

"As  young  as  beautiful!  and  soft  as  young, 
And  gay  as  soft;  and  innocent  as  gay." 

Beyond  is  the  tombstone  of  Tabitha  Flasket,  1807,  with  a  defiant  epi- 
taph, which  it  was  long  supposed  she  wrote,  until  the  original  was  found 
in  an  English  churchyard: 

"Adieu,  vain  world,  I've  seen  enough  of  thee; 
And  I  am  careless  what  thou  say'st  of  me; 
Thy  smiles  I  wish  not, 
Nor  thy  frowns  I  fear, 

I  am  now  at  rest,  my  head  lies  quiet  here." 

Mrs.  Flasket  kept  a  dame  school  and  spun  yarn  at  her  wheel  as  she 
taught.  If  the  little  culprits  became  unruly  she  used  to  pass  skeins 
of  yarn  under  their  arms  and  hang  them  upon  nails  in  a  row.  Her 
husband,  Mr.  Joseph  Flasket,  died  prematurely  thirteen  years  before 
her,  and  the  widow  wrote  for  him  the  epitaph: 

"All  you  that  doth  behold  my  stone, 
Consider  how  soon  I  was  gone. 
Death  does  not  always  warning  give, 
Therefore  be  careful  how  you  live. 
Repent  in  time,  no  time  delay, 
I  in  my  prime  was  called  away." 
Another  stone  sounds  a  note  of  greater  optimism: 

"My  flesh  shall  slumber  in  the  ground 
Till  the  last  trumpet  joyfull  sound 
Then  bust  the  chains  with  sweet  surprise 
And  in  my  Saviours  image  rise." 

On  the  brow  of  the  hill,  near  the  white  fence,  is  the  stone  of  Elizabeth 
Savery,  with  this  classic  verse: 

"Remember  me  as  you  pass  by, 
As  you  are  now,  so  once  was  I; 
As  I  am  now,  so  you  will  be, 
Therefore  prepare  to  follow  me." 

From  Town  Square  cross  Town  Brook  by  way  of  Market 
St.  On  Sandwich  St.,  near  the  Training  Green,  is  the  old 
Howland  House,  "  the  last  house  left  in  Plymouth,  whose  walls 
have  heard  the  voices  of  the  'Mayflower'  Pilgrims."  The 
original  dwelling  had  but  two  rooms  and  a  lean-to,  but  the 
present  structure  contains  much  of  the  original  timber  and 
brick  work.  It  has  been  put  in  order  by  the  "Howland 
Descendants"  and  is  open  throughout  the  summer  season 
to  the  public. 

Town  Brook,  "a  very  sweet  brooke,"  flows  from  Billington 
Sea  through  the  center  of  the  town,  "vexed  in  all  its  seaward 
course  by  bridges,  dams  and  mills."  On  the  shore  of  Billington 
Sea,  two  miles  from  the  center  of  the  town,  is  Morton  Park, 
a  beautiful  pleasure  ground  of  200  acres,  belonging  to  the 
town.  The  'sea'  was  named  for  young  John  Billington,  who 
discovered  it  from  a  tree  when  he  was  lost  in  the  woods. 

Plymouth  was  the  first  permanent  white  settlement  in  New  England 
and  the  first  permanent  English  colony  in  America.  It  dates  from 
the  landing  here  on  Dec.  21,  1620,  of  the  party  of  eightee_n  sent  out  in 
a  shallop  from  the  "Mayflower,"  which  lay  at  anchor  in  Cape  Cod 
Harbor,  now  Provincetown.  Having  spent  Sunday  on  Clark's  Island, 
"On  Monday  they  sounded  the  harbor,  and  founde  it  fitt  for  ship- 


542  PLYMOUTH— BOURNE 

ping;  and  marched  also  into  ye  land  and  found  diverse  cornfields  and 
litle  riming  brooks,  a  place  very  good  for  situation." 

The  region  was  known  to  the  Indians  as  Patuxet  and  they  had  had 
cornfields  in  the  neighborhood  before  the  coast  from  Kennebec  to  Narra- 
gansett  had  been  devastated  by  a  pestilence  four  years  previously. 
The  Patuxet  Indians  were  almost  exterminated,  Tisquancum  being  the 
sole  survivor,  having  been  in  England  at  the  time.  Returning  to  his 
home  he  became  their  friend  and  interpreter,  teaching  them  how  to 
plant  their  corn  when  the  oak  leaves  were  a  mouse's  ear  size  and  to 
place  herring  in  each  hill  as  a  fertilizer.  April  i,  1621,  the  famous 
treaty  with  Massasoit  was  made,  which  lasted  over  fifty  years  and 
undoubtedly  saved  the  little  colony  from  destruction.  It  was  broken 
by  his  son  Philip  in  1675. 

In  the  Autumn  of  1621,  after  they  had  gathered  their  crops  from 
their  thirty  acres  and  their  furs  and  lumber  were  safely  stored,  they 
held  their  first  Thanksgiving  and  made  merry  for  three  days  with 
Massasoit  and  ninety  Indians  as  guests.  Fish,  wild  fowl,  and  veni- 
son were  aplenty.  There  was,  at  last,  reason  for  thanksgiving,  for  the 
land  yielded  bountifully,  trade  with  the  Indians  was  profitable,  and 
the  sea  supplied  abundant  food.  Notwithstanding  Bradford's  state- 
ment that  in  the  beginning  "We  did  lack  small  hooks,"  New  England, 
before  1650,  annually  sent  to  Europe  £100,000  worth  of  dried  codfish. 

Plymouth  bore  its  part  with  the  other  New  England  colonies  in  the 
early  Indian  wars  and  according  to  the  custom  of  the  times  the  con- 
federation sold  into  foreign  bondage  their  foes  taken  in  arms.  A  few, 
convicted  of  killing  people  "otherwise  than  in  war,"  were  executed. 
The  last  lineal  descendants  of  Massasoit,  two  sisters  named  Mitchell, 
are  now  living  in  a  town  near  Plymouth,  and  claim  land  at  "Betty's 
Neck"  in  Middleboro  as  their  ancestral  possession.  In  1686  Plymouth 
came  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Sir  Edmund  Andros,  the  Governor  of 
the  New  England  territory,  and  in  1692  was  united  with  the  Massa- 
chusetts Bay  Colony. 


R.  30  §  2.  Plymouth  to  Provincetown.  79.0  m. 

Via  the  NORTH  SHORE  OF  THE  CAPE. 

This  route  along  the  North  Shore  of  Cape  Cod  is  the  short- 
est route  to  Provincetown.  The  roads  throughout  are  now 
all  splendid  State  macadam,  with  red  markers.  It  is  a  beau- 
tiful trip,  skirting  the  shore  most  of  the  way,  with  repeated 
and  varying  views  of  Cape  Cod  Bay,  approximately  the  route 
along  which  Thoreau  traveled  in  1849  by  stage  and  on  foot. 
Mayflowers  are  abundant  along  the  first  section  of  road  in 
the  spring,  and  the  cranberry  culture  is  very  evident. 

Leaving  Plymouth  by  Main  and  Sandwich  Sts.,  following 
the  trolley,  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  harbor,  the  southern  arm 
of  which  is  formed  by  Long  Beach.  Crossing  Eel  River  the 
road  runs  over  the  slope  of  Manomet  Hill  (380  ft).  This  marks 
the  eastern  extremity  of  the  third  and  northernmost  line  of 
terminal  moraine  clearly  distinguishable  in  southeastern  Mas- 
sachusetts, through  Rhode  Island,  into  Connecticut. 

On  the  bluffs  overlooking  the  Bay  at  Manomet  (6.0)  there 
is  a  summer  colony.  W.  Belmont  Parker,  traveler,  author, 


R.  30  §  2.     PLYMOUTH  TO  PROVINCETOWN  543 

editor,  has  a  summer  farm  here.  South  of  the  village  the  road 
passes  Fresh  Pond  and  the  sea.  The  country  from  here  on  is 
sandy,  covered  with  a  young  growth  of  scrub-oak  broken  by 
occasional  cranberry  bogs.  The  present  excellent  roads  on  the 
Cape  are  of  relatively  recent  origin,  due  to  State  initiative. 

Below  Manomet  near  Fresh  Pond  we  reach  the  first  of  the 
famous  Cape  Cod  "sand  and  oil"  roads,  built  of  the  local  sand, 
mixed  with  Socony  asphalt  binder  (p  800).  The  heat  of  the 
sun  on  this  mixture  of  sand  and  asphalt  makes  a  roadway  with 
an  asphaltic  surface,  smooth  and  elastic.  The  Cape  Cod 
"sand  and  oil"  roads  are  now  being  extensively  copied  in 
Florida.  There  is  no  missing  the  main  road,  for  it  is  marked 
by  red  bands  on  the  telegraph  poles  all  the  way  to  Province- 
town.  It  was  not  always  thus. 

In  1802,  Wendell  Davis,  traveling  in  this  region,  writes  as  follows: 
"The  traveller  on  the  publick  road  from  Plymouth  to  Sandwich  would 
probably  be  often  induced  from  the  sandy  condition  of  the  roads,  and 
the  unsettled  state  of  the  country,  to  anticipate  with  some  solicitude 
the  close  of  his  pilgrimage." 

Note.  At  Cedarville  (14.5),  a  little  hamlet  a  half  mile  to 
the  left,  the  road  forks.  The  lefthand  road  runs  straight  to 
Sagamore  and  Sandwich;  the  righthand,  for  Buzzards  Bay,  is 
a  good  road  skirting  Great  Herring  Pond  to  Bournedale  (3.0). 
This  village  nestling  among  the  hills  was  once  the  home  of  the 
Herring  Pond  Indians.  Samuel  Sewall  of  Boston  built  them 
a  meeting  house  in  1668.  The  place  has  lost  some  of  its  quiet, 
sleepy  aspect  owing  to  the  proximity  of  the  Cape  Cod  Canal 
(p  563).  Proceeding  along  the  sweeping  canal  curve,  we  reach 
the  highest  point  of  the  cut,  thirty  feet  above  sea  level.  Near 
here  on  June  22,  1909,  August  Belmont  turned  the  first  shovel- 
ful of  earth  in  the  construction  of  the  canal,  on  the  little  farm 
where  a  famous  ancestor  of  his,  Oliver  Hazard  Perry  of  Lake 
Erie  fame,  was  born.  We  continue  through  the  lovely  wooded 
Bournedale  valley  to 

6.0     BOURNE.     Pop  (twp)  2474  (1910),  2672  (1915).     Barnstable  Co. 

As  we  enter  the  town,  to  the  left  is  the  Soldiers'  Monument 
with  a  tablet  in  front  of  it.  The  town  was  named  after  Jon- 
athan Bourne,  a  descendant  of  Richard  Bourne,  the  famous 
Indian  missionary.  Here  a  new  highway  bridge  crosses  the 
canal,  elevated  thirty-five  feet  above  the  water  to  allow  minor 
craft  to  pass  without  opening  the  draw.  The  foundations  of 
this  as  well  as  of  all  the  other  canal  bridges  are  sunk  for  a  pro- 
spective canal  depth  of  thirty-five  feet.  The  pageant  of  Cape 
Cod  was  enacted  at  Bourne  on  the  banks  of  the  canal  in 
August,  1914,  to  celebrate  the  canal  opening.  It  was  a  mag- 
nificent outdoor  presentation  of  scenes  in  the  history  of  the 


544  BOURNE— SANDWICH 

Cape.  The  site  of  the  Pilgrim  Trading  Station  of  1627  where 
Governor  Bradford  and  his  little  band  came  to  meet  and  trade 
with  the  Dutch  from  New  Amsterdam  is  near  where  the  origi- 
nal bridge  used  to  cross  the  Manomet  river.  At  Buzzards  Bay 
(9.0)  we  join  Route  31  with  blue  markers  (p  562). 

Following  left  fork  at  Cedarville, — the  main  route,  with  the 
red  markers, — we  cross  the  Cape  Cod  Canal  (p  563)  and  enter 

19.0  SAGAMORE.  (Part  of  Bourne  twp.)  Barnstable  Co.  Mfg. 
railroad  cars. 

Sagamore,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Cape  Cod  Canal,  is  a  thriv- 
ing village  strongly  contrasting  with  the  desuetude  of  the  Cape 
towns.  The  Keith  Car  Works  were  established  here  almost 
half  a  century  ago,  and  their  head,  Eben  S.  S.  Keith,  is 
sometimes  called  by  his  flatterers,  'The  Kingpin  of  the  Cape.' 
Round  the  great  car-building  works  an  industrial  center  has 
grown  up  which  is  a  surprise  to  come  upon  after  driving  over 
miles  of  sandy  oak-scrub.  The  commerce  brought  by  the  canal 
will  probably  result  in  increased  growth  and  development. 
There  is  a  dock  here  for  vessels  making  use  of  the  canal. 

Sagamore  Beach  is  a  Christian  Endeavor  Colony,  where  in 
summer  are  held  Sociological  Congresses  at  which  are  given 
notable  talks  by  readers  of  thought  and  national  reputation. 
At  Sagamore  Highlands  there  is  a  summer  cottage  colony. 

Just  before  entering  Sandwich,  on  the  left  is  Bay  View 
Cemetery,  where  lies  Joe  Jefferson,  the  actor  (d.  1905).  His 
grave,  marked  by  a  great  boulder  which  he  himself  selected, 
may  be  seen  from  the  road. 

21.0  SANDWICH.  Pop  1688  (1910),  1500  (1913).  Barnstable  Co. 
Settled  1637.  Mfg.  tags  and  ornamental  glass. 

Sandwich  is  a  prosperous  and  quiet  village,  the  center  of  a 
considerable  summer  colony  on  the  hills  round  about.  Bourne 
Hill  to  the  south  rises  to  elevations  of  250  feet.  Spring  Hill 
and  Scorton  Hill  are  points  of  vantage  for  summer  homes. 
From  certain  points  of  view  among  the  hills,  the  sleepy  little 
town  with  its  spires  and  gables  sticking  above  the  trees  is  some- 
what suggestive  of  the  Kentish  coast  town  in  England  from 
which  it  is  named. 

The  old  Tupper  house  is  one  of  the  oldest  on  the  Cape.  It 
was  built  in  1637  by  Rev.  Thomas  Tupper,  a  famous  mission- 
ary to  the  Indians.  The  house  has  descended  in  unbroken 
line  from  father  to  son  with  never  a  transfer  or  mortgage 
appearing  against  it.  Though  rapidly  decaying,  the  heavy 
hewn  timber  frame  shows  the  strength  of  the  oldtime  con- 
struction. Here,  too,  are  the  ancient  Wing  and  Nye  houses, 
both  built  by  pioneer  families. 


R.  30  §  2.     PLYMOUTH  TO  PROVINCETOWN  545 

Sandwich  is  the  home  town  of  the  Swifts  of  Chicago  packing 
house  fame.  Their  great  industry  had  its  inception  here  in  a 
little  picturesque  farmhouse  where  the  several  brothers  com- 
posing the  great  family  were  all  born.  The  Swifts  have  been 
one  of  the  prolific  Cape  families  from  the  earliest  days. 

Near  Sandwich  is  the  Faunce  farm  established  through  the 
bequest  of  Mrs.  Harriet  M.  Faunce  as  a  memorial  to  her  son, 
the  village  physician,  Dr.  Robert  Faunce,  a  forceful  figure  of 
his  time.  It  was  left  in  trust  to  demonstrate  the  possibility 
and  profit  of  developing  small  fruits,  vegetables,  and  poultry 
on  the  Cape.  The  trustees,  with  the  advice  of  Amherst  Agri- 
cultural College,  employ  an  expert  to  give  demonstrations  to 
school  children  and  others  interested.  The  highway  by  the 
Faunce  Demonstration  Farm  was  the  first  "sand  and  oil" 
road  built  by  the  State  Highway  Commission. 

This  is  the  oldest  town  on  the  Cape,  established  by  a  grant  from 
Plymouth  Colony  in  1637,  to  25  settlers  chiefly  from  Lynn  and  Saugus, 
still  represented  by  the  Freeman  family.  Its  boundaries  were  estab- 
lished by  Miles  Standish,  who  was  a  surveyor,  assisted  by  his  friend 
John  Alden.  It  early  became  a  fishing  village,  and  the  gentle  art  of 
whale  killing  was  early  developed.  In  i6gi  Ichabod  Paddock  of  Yar- 
mouth engaged  to  go  to  Nantucket  "to  instruct  the  people  in  the  art  of 
killing  whales"  by  the  employment  of  boats  from  the  shore.  In  1702 
Sandwich  gave  to  Rev.  Roland  Cotton  "all  such  drift  whales  as 
shall,  during  the  time  of  his  ministry,  be  driven  or  cast  ashore  within  the 
limits  of  the  town,  being  such  as  shall  not  be  killed  with  hands." 

As  the  historian  of  1802  says:  "The  employment  of  the  people  on 
this  shore  is  both  maritime  and  agricultural.  The  town  in  its  general 
character  is  more  agricultural,  however,  than  otherwise,  and  more  so 
than  any  other  in  the  country.  The  inhabitants  in  general  are  sub- 
stantial livers.  From  their  vicinity  to  the  sea,  they  are  enabled  to 
draw  a  considerable  portion  of  their  subsistence  from  its  bosom." 

From  about  1820  to  1880  there  were  glass  works  here,  for 
a  long  time  the  largest  in  the  nation. 

From  Sandwich  to  Barnstable  we  pass  great  reaches  of 
marshland  known  as  The  Great  Marshes  where  farmers  gather 
salt  hay  in  summer.  In  the  autumn  the  wild  duck,  coot, 
snipe,  and  other  game  birds  attract  the  sportsman.  Off  to  the 
left  can 'be  seen  the  great  white  sand  dunes.  This  country  is 
familiar  to  many  through  the  watercolors  of  Dodge  Mac- 
Knight,  whose  house  stands  behind  a  high  hedge  on  the  right. 
On  Lawrence  Lake,  East  Sandwich,  is  Camp  Cotuit  for  girls. 

West  Barnstable  (28.5)  overlooks  the  salt  marshes.  A 
number  of  old  Dutch  windmills  on  the  Cape  were  formerly 
used  to  grind  corn  or  to  pump  sea  water  into  wooden  vats  for 
the  purpose  of  making  salt  by  evaporation.  Salt  making  was 
especially  carried  on  about  Sandwich  and  Barnstable.  Tho- 
reau  says:  "The  most  foreign  and  picturesque  structure  on 
the  Cape  to  an  inlander,  not  excepting  the  salt  works,  are  the 


546  SANDWICH— BARNSTABLE 

windmills,  gray-looking  octagonal  towers  with  long  timbers 
slanting  to  the  ground  in  the  rear,  and  these  resting  on  a  cart- 
wheel by  which  their  fans  are  turned  round  to  the  wind.  .  .  . 
Sailors  making  land  commonly  steer  by  them,  or  by  the  meeting- 
houses. In  the  country  we  are  obliged  to  steer  by  the  meeting- 
houses alone." 

The  persistence  of  Indian  names  in  Barnstable  County  is 
more  noticeable  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  State.  The 
names  of  the  towns  are  generally  English,  but  those  of  the 
lakes,  streams,  and  localities  are  largely  Indian. 

32.5     BARNSTABLE.     Pop  (twp)  4676  (1910),  4995  (1915).     County- 
seat  of  Barnstable  Co.     Settled  1639.     Ind.  Commaquid. 

Barnstable  is  a  pleasant,  restful  town  with  a  broad,  shady 
main  street  and  a  number  of  quaint,  staid  old  houses.  Unlike 
most  of  the  Cape,  the  soil  about  Barnstable  is  very  fertile  and 
supplies  the  surrounding  summer  resorts  with  milk,  vegetables, 
and  poultry.  There  are  twenty-seven  lakes  and  ponds  in  the 
town.  In  the  autumn  it  is  the  scene  of  a  very  popular  county 
fair.  James  Otis,  the  orator  and  signer  of  the  Declaration  of 
Independence,  and  Massachusetts'  greatest  Chief  Justice, 
Lemuel  Shaw,  were  natives  of  Barnstable.  Barnstable  boasts 
the  oldest  bell  in  New  England,  cast  in  1675,  now  in  the  office 
of  the  clerk  of  the  courts. 

On  March  12,  1697,  a  ship  was  wrecked  off  this  coast,  and  the  captain 
and  his  crew  were  buried  in  the  graveyard  of  the  First  Parish  Church 
by  the  town  of  Sandwich.  In  return  for  this  kindness  the  captain's 
widow,  who  lived  in  New  York,  sent  the  town  this  bell.  Five  years 
later  it  was  taken  to  Barnstable  for  the  court  house  belfry  and  saved 
when  that  building  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1827.  It  was  hung  in 
the  tower  of  the  new  court  house  in  1833  and  was  rung  regularly  at  the 
opening  session  of  each  court  until  1874.  In  1872,  on  the  night  before 
the  Fourth  some  of  the  boys  of  the  town  used  a  hammer  on  the  bell 
and  cracked  it.  Two  years  later  it  was  replaced  by  a  new  one. 

Here  lived  Miss  Priscilla  Mullens,  the  prepossessing  young  lady  to 
whom  John  Alden  long  was  thought  to  have  carried  Miles  Standish's 
proposal.  Miles  Standish,  who  was  a  surveyor  by  profession,  made 
most  of  the  original  surveys  on  this  part  of  the  Cape.  It  was  probably 
while  practicing  his  profession  in  this  region  that  he  became  acquainted 
with  Priscilla.  As  he  was  a  married  man,  nothing  came  of  it,  but  by 
the  tradition,  six  weeks  after  Mrs.  Standish  died  he  sent  his  friend 
John  to  make  a  proposal.  Despite  the  recent  obsequies,  this  does  not 
seem  to  have  been  taken  amiss,  for  the  young  lady  herself  spoke  up: 
"If  the  great  captain  of  Plymouth  is  so  very  eager  to  wed  me, 

Why  does  he  not  come  himself,  and  take  the  trouble  to  woo  me? 

If  I  am  not  worth  the  wooing,  I  am  not  worth  the  winning. 

Archly  the  maiden  smiled,  and,  with  eyes  o'errunning  with  laughter, 
Said  in  a  tremulous  voice,  'Why  don't  you  speak  for  yourself,  John? '  " 
This  romance  has  been  blasted  by  a  direct  descendant  of  the  prin- 
cipals, Rev.  Paul  Sturtevant  Howe,  who  says: 

"It  is  entirely  groundless.  Miles  Standish's  first  wife  died  Jan.  21, 
1621.  Priscilla's  father,  William  Mullens,  died  the  2istof  the  following 


R.  30  §  2.     PLYMOUTH  TO  PROVINCETOWN  547 

February.  John  Alden  married  her  while  busy  nursing  her  father  in 
a  hut.  It  is  unbelievable  that  Miles  courted  Priscilla  three  weeks 
after  the  death  of  his  wife.  Later  Miles  married  a  certain  Barbara, 
who  came  over  in  1623.  John  Alden  and  Priscilla  had  a  daughter 
Sarah,  and  Miles  Standish  and  Barbara  had  a  son  Alexander.  These 
two  children  were  married,  and  that  is  the  real  romance." 

Barnstable  formerly  had  a  considerable  whaling  fleet. 
When  a  vessel  was  sighted  making  the  harbor,  there  was 
commotion  in  the  little  port.  In  the  rear  of  the  Post  Office  a 
blue  flag,  bearing  the  word  "Ship,"  in  large  letters,  was  dis- 
played on  a  tall  flagstaff.  Owners,  captains,  seamen,  women, 
and  children — every  one  who  had  a  venture  on  the  deep — 
then  gathered  to  speculate  as  to  which  of  the  port's  eighty-two 
vessels  the  incoming  ship  might  be  and  the  extent  and  value 
of  her  catch.  Meantime  the  'camels,'  a  floating  drydock 
used  for  lifting  vessels  over  the  bar,  was  steaming  out  to  the 
harbor  bar.  There  it  was  sunk,  the  vessel  was  towed  within, 
and  as  the  water  was  pumped  from  the  'camels'  it  rose  with 
the  ship  in  its  embrace  and  propelled  itself  and  its  burden 
over  the  bar. 

The  Cunnnaquid  Golf  Links,  an  excellent  nine-hole  course, 
are  situated  near  the  Barnstable-Yarmouth  line.  Strangers 
may  obtain  golfing  privileges  for  the  day  or  week  by  applying 
to  the  Greenkeeper  at  the  golf  house. 

The  natives  of  Yarmouth  Port  (35.5)  in  the  past  were  famous 
seafaring  folk,  and  half  a  century  ago  every  other  house  held 
a  retired  sea-captain.  The  houses  sit  cheek  by  jowl  along  both 
sides  of  the  elm-shaded  main  street  which  runs  for  some  miles 
through  the  Port  and  Yarmouth.  They  have  a  settled  look 
as  though  they  had  been  here  for  some  time.  Clifton  Johnson 
writes:  "Very  few  dwellings  ventured  aside  from  this  double 
column.  Apparently  no  other  situation  was  orthodox,  and  I 
suppose  the  families  which  lived  off  from  this  one  street  must 
have  sacrificed  their  social  standing  in  so  doing." 

The  Lovell  house  (1697),  on  Hallet  and  Main  Sts.,  faces 
Railroad  Ave.  The  Thacher  house,  at  the  corner  of  Hallet 
and  Thacher  Sts.,  was  built  in  1680  by  Colonel  John  Thacher. 
The  Thacher  family  has  been  prominent  hereabouts  since  the 
first  settlement,  1639,  when  Anthony  Thacher  was  one  of  the 
three  original  grantees.  Thacher  Island  off  Cape  Ann  was  so 
named  because  Anthony  with  his  wife  and  children  were 
wrecked  there  in  the  great  storm  of  1635  (p  648).  A  seafaring 
folk  in  their  time,  they  have  since  taken  a  large  part  in  the 
later  developments  of  the  county  and  State.  Congressman 
Thomas  C.  Thacher  now  represents  the  Cape  district. 

Note.  From  Yarmouthport,  to  the  right  of  a  small  store, 
a  good  road  runs  south  to  Hyannis,  three  miles.  It  crosses 


548  BARNSTABLE— BREWSTER 

R.R.  near  the  station;  about  a  mile  out  on  the  right  in  an  oak 
grove  is  the  Yarmouth  Camp  Ground  where  camp-meetings 
have  been  held  for  twoscore  years. 

36.5  YARMOUTH.  Pop  (twp)  1420  (1910),  1415  (1915).  Barn- 
stable  Co.  Settled  1639.  Indian  name  Mattacheese.  Mfg. 
wirework;  cranberries  and  fish. 

Yarmouth  with  its  several  dependent  villages  is  typical  of 
Cape  towns.  Whaling  was  profitable  for  a  time  and  was  fol- 
lowed by  codding.  After  the  Revolution,  salt  works  were 
established.  Now  it  is  a  small  fishing  port  which  caters  largely 
to  the  summer  tourist. 

There  was  once  an  Indian  town  and  meeting  house  near  Swan's 
Pond;  and  the  Indian  burial-place  is  still  visible.  One  of  these 
Indians  was  the  first  man  of  the  provincial  army  to  enter  the  grand 
battery  at  Louisburg  in  1745.  "He  crawled  in  at  the  embrasure," 
says  Dr.  Alden,  "and  opened  the  gate  which  Vaughan  immediately 
entered,  the  enemy  having  withdrawn  from  this  battery;  though,  at 
the  time,  this  circumstance  was  not  known." 

40.0  DENNIS.  Pop  (twp)  1919  (1910),  1822  (1915).  Barnstable  Co. 
Inc.  1794.  Indian  name  Nobscussett. 

Dennis,  a  quiet  village,  named  for  its  first  minister,  Rev. 
Josiah  Dennis,  derived  much  of  its  importance  in  the  olden 
days  from  the  fishing  and  coasting  trade,  and  at  the  beginning 
of  the  last  century  from  the  salt  works  established  here.  The 
salt  vats  extended  along  the  shore,  into  which  the  sea  water 
was  pumped  by  windmills  and  evaporated  by  sun  power.  At 
night  and  in  rainy  weather  the  vats  were  covered  with  shingle 
roofs.  According  to  the  old  historian,  it  was  a  very  respecta- 
ble town.  He  goes  on  to  say,  "Masonry  in  this,  and  in  the 
other  towns  of  the  county  where  lodges  exist,  is  in  good  repute, 
the  brethren  being  in  general  respectable  both  for  their  property 
and  moral  character." 

In  1837  Dennis  claimed  no  fewer  than  150  skippers  sailing 
from  American  ports,  and  at  that  time  it  played  no  small  part 
in  the  coasting  trade.  As  late  as  1870  it  still  had  forty-eight 
vessels  employed  in  cod  and  mackerel  fisheries.  Some  very 
fast  clippers  were  built  by  the  Shivericks,  the  best-known  ship- 
builders on  the  Cape,  vessels  especially  noted  for  their  swift 
voyages  to  and  from  Calcutta  and  San  Francisco.  All  this 
was  changed  after  the  Civil  War,  when  steam  conquered  sails. 

There  are  attractive  estates  at  Nobscussett  Point  and  other 
parts  of  the  shore.  From  the  bluff  at  the  Point,  a  watch  was 
formerly  kept  for  the  whales  that  entered  the  Bay.  There  is 
an  old  Indian  cemetery  among  the  hills. 

It  was  in  the  '4o's  that  a  native  of  Dennis  discovered  that 
wild  cranberries  could  be  tamed.  He  found  that  the  vines 
growing  near  the  shore,  where  the  sand  was  blown  over  them, 


R.  30  §  2.     PLYMOUTH  TO  PROVINCETOWN  549 

were  more  prolific,  and  from  this  simple  discovery  has  devel- 
oped the  whole  art  of  cranberry  culture. 

Scargo  Lake,  at  the  foot  of  Scargo  Hill  (160  ft),  between 
Dennis  and  East  Dennis,  has  an  interesting  Indian  legend 
connected  with  it. 

A  beauteous  Indian  maiden,  the  daughter  of  a  sachem,  desired  to 
have  a  fish  pond  of  her  own,  so  deep  that  the  water  could  not  dry  away 
in  summer  and  cause  the  death  of  her  little  fishes.  To  gratify  this 
wish,  the  women  of  the  tribe  came  together  and  scraped  up  the  earth 
with  their  clamshells  for  weeks  and  weeks,  until  they  had  made  a 
huge  cavity.  Then  the  "braves"  of  the  tribe,  in  consideration  of  her 
rank  and  beauty,  brought  water  and  filled  it.  Thus  was  Scargo  Lake 
formed.  The  earth  which  had  been  thrown  out  made  Scargo  Hill. 

Dennis,  like  most  of  the  Cape  towns,  has  a  brood  of  little 
Dennises  all  about  it.  There  is  North  Dennis,  South  Dennis, 
West  Dennis,  Dennisport,  and  East  Dennis  (42.0),  through 
which  latter  the  route  passes. 

Note.  The  macadam  road  to  the  right  leads  to  West  Dennis 
and  Route  31  (p  570). 

46.5  BREWSTER.  Pop  (twp)  631  (1910),  783  (1915).  Barnstable 
Co.  Settled  1800.  Indian  name  Sawkattukett. 

Brewster,  named  in  honor  of  Elder  Brewster  of  the  "May- 
flower" Pilgrims,  is  a  sleepy  old  fishing  village  which  is  enliv- 
ened in  summer  by  the  advent  of  the  tourist.  Before  the 
Civil  WTar  it  was  a  flourishing  port,  and  it  is  said  that  in  1850 
more  sea-captains  went  on  foreign  voyages  from  Brewster 
than  from  any  other  place  in  the  United  States.  The  residence 
of  the  late  Albert  Crosby,  a  former  sea-captain,  contains  a 
notable  collection  of  paintings,  which  is  open  to  visitors. 
Joseph  C.  Lincoln,  the  wellknown  writer  of  Cape  Cod  stories, 
was  born  here.  Among  his  most  popular  books  are  "Partners 
of  the  Tide"  and  ''  Cap'n  Eri." 

Just  beyond  the  town  on  the  left  is  Fieldstone  Hall,  the  mag- 
nificent estate  of  Roland  Nickerson,  one  of  the  many  Cape 
boys  who  have  become  rich  in  the  big  cities  and  then  returned 
home  to  build  large  places.  Sea  Pines  School  for  girls  is 
located  here  between  the  main  street  and  the  water  (p  800) . 

A  herring  brook  is  owned  by  the  town  and  at  the  annual 
town  meeting  a  committee  is  appointed  to  catch  the  fish  and 
to  dispose  of  them.  In  former  years  the  yield  has  often  been 
as  much  as  300  barrels. 

Brewster  has  never  quite  forgiven  Thoreau  for  going  to 
sleep  in  the  stage  coach  which  brought  him  through  the 
town  in  the  night,  so  that  his  famous  book  dismisses  it  with 
but  a  word. 

The  shore  on  this  Bay  side  of  the  Cape  is  endless  in  its 
variety  of  dunes,  boulder-strewn  promontories,  and  stretches 


550  BREWSTER— EASTHAM 

of  salt  sedgelands.  Great  boulders  are  scattered  about  this 
part  of  the  Cape  in  contrast  to  the  sandy  wastes  in  which 
they  lie.  The  oldest  windmill  on  the  cape  is  here. 

52.0     ORLEANS.     Pop  (twp)  1077  (1910),  1166  (1915).     Barnstable 

Co.  Inc.  1797.  Indian  name  Namskaket. 
Recently  Orleans  has  attained  prominence  in  newspaper 
headlines  as  the  "tax-dodger's  paradise."  Probably  no  other 
town  in  the  country  can  boast  as  does  Orleans  an  increase  in 
one  day  in  taxable  value  of  over  $1,500,000.  In  five  years 
the  assessed  valuation  of  property  has  increased  from  $700,000 
to  over  $5,000,000.  Meanwhile  with  a  tax  rate  of  only  $3 
per  thousand,  there  have  been  built  a  new  town  hall,  twenty 
miles  of  fine  roads,  a  lighting  system,  a  municipal  baseball 
park,  and  the  town  selectmen  are  at  a  loss  to  know  how  to 
spend  their  surplus.  The  newspapers  report  that  the  town 
is  besieged  by  millionaires  seeking  to  establish  a  legal  residence. 
One  of  them  accomplished  his  purpose  by  leasing  a  room  in 
the  local  inn  for  a  month,  another  by  sleeping  overnight  on  a 
cot  in  an  undertaker's,  thereby  establishing  his  legal  residence. 
Another  came  with  his  family  by  automobile  and  pitched  a 
tent.  Sidney  W.  Winslow,  president  of  the  United  Shoe 
Machinery  Company,  who  had  summered  here  for  twenty- 
five  years,  started  this  millionaire  stampede  about  five  years 
ago.  The  town  boasts  that  it  has  no  paupers  and  that  the 
almshouse  has  been  sold  as  a  residence. 

Orleans  was  the  home  of  Wilton  Lockwood,  a  portrait 
painter  of  unusual  ability  who  made  his  winter  home  in  Boston 
and  later  New  York.  At  Orleans  he  propagated  wild  ducks 
in  great  variety.  Today  the  Mayos  go  in  for  tame  ducks.  , 
Their  duck  farm  at  East  Orleans  is  one  of  the  sights  of  the 
place  and  hatches  about  50,000  ducklings  a  season. 

The  township  is  greatly  cut  up  by  the  sea.  To  the  east  is 
Nauset  Beach,  an  unbroken  stretch  of  white  sand  to  Highland 
Light,  a  distance  of  thirty  miles,  with  two  life-saving  stations. 
It  encloses  Pleasant  Bay,  the  largest  body  of  enclosed  water 
on  the  Cape.  On  its  shores  has  grown  up  in  the  last  few  years 
a  considerable  summer  colony.  A  French  Atlantic  cable 
station  is  situated  here.  The  three  windmills  are  150  years  old. 
The  ubiquitous  Captain  Smith  stopped  on  these  shores  with  his 
several  ships,  and  after  Smith  had  left,  Hunt,  his  second  in  command, 
enticed  some  Nauset  Indians  aboard  his  ship  and  later  sold  them  as 
slaves  at  Malaga,  Spain,  for  twenty  pounds  a  man.  This  was  a  profit- 
able venture  for  Hunt,  but,  with  similar  acts,  made  the  Indians  some- 
what suspicious  though  they  continued  to  trade  with  occasional  passing 
vessels.  Orleans  incorporated  from  Eastham  as  a  separate  town  in  1707 
was  in  the  enthusiasm  for  French  democracy  of  the  times  named  for 
the  Duke  of  Orleans,  alias  'Citizen  figalite,'  popular  for  his  democracy. 
The  sea  was  the  early  source  of  livelihood.  As  a  writer  of  the  day 


R.  30   §  2.     PLYMOUTH  TO  PROVINCETOWN  551 

puts  it:  "  The  shores  of  Orleans  are  more  fertile  than  the  land."  Clams 
have  always  been  an  important  product.  The  remains  of  an  old- 
time  ship,  the  "  Sparrowhawk, "  lost  in  1626,  were  uncovered  by  the 
sea  in  1863.  Professor  Agassiz  made  an  investigation  which  gave 
evidence  of  a  now  closed  passage  which  is  shown  on  an  early  chart  of 
this  coast  and  preserved  in  the  Public  Record  office  in  London,  which 
ran  through  the  towns  of  Eastham,  Orleans,  and  Chatham  and  was 
used  in  the  early  Colonial  days  by  small  vessels  making  voyages  be- 
tween the  Bay  of  Maine  and  Virginia. 

The  great  Bellamy  Storm  of  1717,  which  wrecked  the  pirate  ship 
"Widah"  on  the  Wellfleet  coast,  washed  a  passage  across  the  Cape 
between  Eastham  and  Orleans  so  that  a  man  passed  through  it  in  a 
whaleboat.  After  the  storm  it  required  a  general  turnout  of  citi- 
zens and  much  labor  to  refill  the  passage.  In  1804  a  canal  following 
about  the  same  route  as  this  passage  was  cut  through  the  Cape  by 
a  company  which  derived  its  consent  from  the  two  towns.  For  various 
reasons  this  canal  was  not  a  success  and  was  allowed  to  fill  up. 

Route  31,  from  the  south  shore  of  the  Cape,  joins  here.  From 
Orleans  northward  the  Cape  has  become  so  narrow  that  there 
is  no  missing  the  excellent  main  road  and  its  red  markers  with- 
out getting  lost  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean  or  Cape  Cod  Bay. 

56.0     EASTHAM.     Pop    518    (1910),    545    (1915).     Barnstable    Co. 
Settled  1644.     Indian  name  Nawsett. 

Half  a  mile  to  the  east  across  the  Nauset  Plains  are  the 
Nauset  Lights  on  the  bare  sand  bluffs.  The  lighthouses  are 
built  of  wood  so  that  if  the  sea  starts  to  wash  away  the  bluffs 
they  may  be  moved  back.  Down  the  beach  to  the  south  is 
the  Nauset  Life  Saving  Station,  one  of  the  chain  of  stations 
which  stretches  along  the  entire  shore  of  the  Cape. 

Eastham  was  settled  by  the  Pilgrims  in  1644  under  the  leadership 
of  Thomas  Prince,  at  one  time  Governor  of  Plymouth,  and  was  named 
Eastham  from  the  same  thought  that  later  made  Thoreau  remark, 
"One  may  stand  here  and  put  America  behind  him."  Samuel  Treat, 
the  great  Indian  missionary,  settled  here  in  1672.  For  forty-five  years 
he  served  the  town  as  pastor  and  learned  to  speak  and  write  the  Indian 
language.  Thoreau  amusedly  remarks  on  the  provision  of  the  town 
in  1680  that  "a  part  of  every  whale  cast  on  shore  be  appropriated  for 
the  support  of  the  ministry,"  and  he  pictures  the  old  parson  sitting 
knee-a-chin  on  the  sand  hills,  anxiously  watching  for  his  salary. 

Between  Eastham  and  North  Eastham,  to  the  east,  is  the 
Methodist  Camp  Ground.  The  next  few  miles  traverse  a 
flat,  sandy  stretch,  and  then  the  road  runs  up  and  down  hill 
in  a  manner  surprising  to  those  who  expect  a  level  sandspit. 
Ahead  of  us  and  slightly  to  the  right  are  the  curious  wooden 
trestle  towers  of  the  wireless  station  at  South  Wellfleet  (62.5). 
The  station  is  on  a  desolate  bit  of  coast  in  the  midst  of  brown 
sand  dunes  and  scrub-pine  at  a  considerable  distance  from  any 
other  habitation.  It  is  reached  by  a  very  sandy  road  and  no 
admittance  is  granted  to  the  enclosure. 

This  station  was  completed  in  1903  and  was  the  third  in  the  world 
to  be  built  for  transatlantic  service.  The  four  towers  are  over  200  feet 


552  EASTHAM— TRURO 

high  and  form  a  square  about  200  feet  on  a  side.  They  are  built  of 
the  heaviest  pine  and  each  has  two  great  cables  stretched  into  beds 
of  concrete  so  as  to  withstand  the  force  of  the  wind.  There  is  a  cot- 
tage for  the  operators,  a  building  for  the  apparatus,  a  brick  house  for 
the  storage  of  oil,  etc.  Marconi  here  engaged  in  experiments. 

64.5  WELLFLEET.     Pop  1022   (1910),  936   (1915).     Barnstable  Co. 
Inc.  1775.    Indian  name  Punonakanit. 

Wellfleet,  the  second  landing  place  of  the  Pilgrims  and  once  a 
whaling  port  of  a  hundred  sail,  is  now  a  quiet  fishing  and  farm- 
ing village  which  caters  to  the  summer  visitor.  At  the  present 
day  the  shallow  harbors  on  the  west  coast  are  only  fit  for  small 
craft  owing  to  the  silting  in  of  the  sand. 

"Wherever  over  the  world  you  see  the  Stars  and  Stripes  float- 
ing you  may  have  good  hope  that  beneath  them  some  one  will 
be  found  who  can  tell  you  the  soundings  of  Barnstable,  or 
Wellfleet,  or  Chatham  Harbor." 

As  an  example  of  what  Wellfleet  men  have  done,  Lorenzo 
Dow  Baker,  born  here  in  1840,  and  named  by  his  mother, 
Thankful  Baker,  after  the  great  temperance  reformer,  began 
about  1870  the  development  of  the  West  Indian  fruit  business 
from  which  grew  in  1884  the  Boston  Fruit  Company,  one  of 
the  largest  of  the  companies  united  to  form  the  United  Fruit 
Company,  which  now  has  an  investment  of  $100,000,000  in 
the  West  Indian  fruit  business. 

Wellfleet  was  a  flourishing  whaling  center  in  the  early  days  before 
the  rise  of  Nantucket  and  New  Bedford;  in  fact,  the  name  of  the  town 
is  said  to  be  a  corruption  of  "whale  fleet."  Wellfleet  men  were  the 
originators  of  whaling  expeditions  to  the  Falkland  Islands.  On  this 
coast,  in  1717,  the  "Widah,"  the  ship  of  the  notorious  pirate  Bellamy, 
was  decoyed  upon  the  shoals  and  wrecked  and  Bellamy  and  140  of  his 
buccaneers  were  drowned.  Those  who  escaped  were  executed. 

From  here  the  road  is  much  more  broken  and  hilly,  rising 
to  altitudes  of  140  feet.  There  are  a  great  number  of  fresh- 
water ponds,  many  of  them  almost  perfectly  circular,  extend- 
ing north  and  south.  They  occupy  'kettle-holes'  where  great 
masses  of  ice  detached  from  the  glacier  stood  while  the  sand 
was  washed  in  around  them.  Wellfleet  Harbor,  to  the  west, 
is  formed  by  a  line  of  islands  connected  by  sand  beaches. 

69.0     TRURO.     Pop  (twp)  655  (1910),  663  (1915).     Barnstable  Co. 
Settled  1700.     Indian  name  Pawmet. 

The  little  hamlet  of  Truro  is  on  the  Pamet  river.  There  is 
a  South  and  North  Truro,  but  the  peninsula  here  was  so  narrow 
that  there  was  no  opportunity  for  an  East  and  West.  The 
name  is  taken  from  a  town  in  Cornwall,  England. 

Thoreau  says  Truro  is  "a  village  where  its  able-bodied  men 
are  all  plowing  the  ocean  together  as  a  common  field.  In 
North  Truro  the  women  and  girls  may  sit  at  their  doors  and  see 


R.  30  §  2.     PLYMOUTH  TO  PROVINCETOWN  553 

where  their  husbands  and  brothers  are  harvesting  their  mackerel 
fifteen  to  twenty  miles  off,  on  the  sea,  with  hundreds  of  white 
harvest-wagons."  Many  of  the  most  skillful  and  daring  of 
American  seamen  came  from  these  shores  in  the  days  when 
our  commerce  was  at  its  height. 

•  Truro  was  settled  under  the  name  of  Dangerfield,  from  the  terrors 
which  its  coast  inspired.  Perhaps  more  ships  have  been  wrecked  on 
this  shore  than  on  any  other  in  New  England.  It  is  said  that  nearly 
every  family  on  this  part  of  the  Cape  has  lost  some  member  by  the 
disasters  of  the  sea.  In  1841,  in  one  day  Truro  lost  fifty-seven  men  and 
seven  vessels  and  Dennis  lost  twenty-eight  men. 

President  D wight  of  Yale  a  century  ago  was  amazed  at  the  "bleak 
desolation  of  the  country"  half  hidden  by  the  "tempestuous  tossing 
of  the  clouds  of  sand."  Even  then  the  inhabitants  were  required  by 
law  to  plant  bunches  of  beach-grass  to  prevent  the  sand  from  blowing. 
In  recent  years  forestry  has  been  practiced  on  a  large  scale  and  many 
small  trees,  etc.,  have  been  planted  to  keep  the  dunes  from  shifting. 

At  this  narrowest  part  of  the  Cape  the  land  rises  into  rolling  hills 
among  which  some  fresh-water  ponds  nestle.  In  places  the  land- 
scape is  very  striking  with  the  views  of  the  sea  on  either  side.  The 
autumn  color  effects  of  the  brush  on  these  sand-hills  caused  Thoreau 
to  wax  eloquent.  "It  was  like  the  richest  rug  imaginable,"  he  writes, 
"spread  over  an  uneven  surface;  no  damask  or  velvet,  nor  Tyrian 
dye  or  stuffs,  nor  the  work  of  any  loom,  could  ever  match  it.  There 
was  the  incredibly  bright  red  of  the  Huckleberry,  and  the  reddish 
brown  of  the  Bayberry,  mingled  with  the  bright  and  living  green  of 
small  Pitch-Pines  .  .  .  each  making  its  own  figure,  and,  in  the  midst, 
the  few  yellow  sand-slides  on  the  sides  of  the  hills  looked  like  the  white 
floor  seen  through  rents  in  the  rug." 

The  road  runs  up  hill  and  down  dale,  crossing  the  valley  of 
Long  Nook  in  which  lies  the  sluggish  Little  Pamet  river. 
Beyond,  the  road  climbs  the  high  hill  where  is  the  old  crowded 
town  cemetery  near  the  site  of  the  old  church.  Some  miles 
off  shore  are  the  dreaded  Peaked  Hill  bars. 

At  North  Truro  (72.5)  the  side  road  to  the  left  of  the  village 
square  leads  to  the  bay  shore,  where  in  a  modern  cold  storage 
plant  are  kept  frozen  thousands  of  barrels  of  fish  caught  in 
the  weirs  which  run  out  into  the  Bay. 

The  bayberry,  a  kind  of  wax  myrtle  which  grows  in  abund- 
ance on  the  sand  dunes  round  about,  yields  a  berry  which  in 
the  fall  is  collected  by  young  and  old.  A  little  factory  here 
produces  in  the  oldtime  manner,  by  boiling  these  berries,  a 
pure,  fragrant,  sage-green  wax,  from  which  are  made,  by 
dipping  in  the  oldfashioned  way,  bayberry  candles  (p  800) . 

On  the  right  after  leaving  North  Truro  we  see  Highland 
Light.  The  first  light  erected  here  was  in  1797,  one  of  the 
earliest  to  be  put  up  by  the  U.S.  This  is  a  very  dangerous 
bit  of  coast  on  account  of  the  sand  reefs  and  has  been  the  scene 
of  many  wrecks.  The  cliff  on  which  the  lighthouse  stands  is 
being  worn  away  so  fast  that  little  vegetation  is  able  to  find 
root  on  its  slipping  face.  It  supplies  sand  for  the  waves  and 


554  TRURO— PROVINCETOWN 

currents  to  drift  along  the  coast  and  build  into  sand  bars  and 
shoals.  This  is  the  way  in  which  most  of  the  dangerous  shoals 
on  the  Cape  are  formed. 

Near  the  light  is  situated  the  Government  Wireless  Station, 
to  which  admission  is  granted.  As  we  continue  we  have 
striking  views  of  Province  town  with  its  Pilgrim  Monument 
rising  from  the  sand  hills  and  of  the  lighthouse  on  Race  Point. 

79.0  PROVINCETOWN.  Pop  4369  (1910), 4295  (1915}.  Barnstable 
Co.  Inc.  1727.  Indian  name  Chequocket.  Mfg.  canned 
goods;  fish.  Daily  steamer  to  Boston. 

Provincetown,  just  inside  the  tip  of  the  Cape,  stretches  along 
the  shore  of  the  harbor,  both  protected  and  threatened  on  the 
north  between  enormous  sand  dunes.  It  has  long  been  a 
center  for  the  cod  and  mackerel  fisheries,  and  the  cold  storage 
plants  recently  erected  have  increased  its  importance.  Prov- 
incetown has  been  famous  in  history  as  the  first  landing  place 
of  the  Pilgrims,  commemorated  by  the  lofty  monument.  Dur- 
ing the  summer  months  it  is  a  mecca  for  the  excursionist  from 
Boston,  and  the  picturesque  surroundings  have  attracted  many 
artists  and  made  it  the  headquarters  of  the  Cape  Cod  School 
of  Art  and  other  schools.  An  annual  summer  exhibition  is 
held  by  the  Art  Association  in  the  Town  Hall.  The  nucleus 
of  a  permanent  collection  has  been  established  by  the  gifts  of 
C.  W.  Hawthorne,  W.  F.  Halsall,  and  E.  A.  Webster.  The 
U.S.  North  Atlantic  fleet  assembles  in  the  harbor  nearly 
every  summer.  Provincetown  is  a  wide-awake,  prosperous 
community  and  boasts  that  a  third  of  its  taxes  is  spent  on 
schools. 

Commercial  Street  follows  the  water  line  with  the  usual  sea- 
shore variety  of  outfitting  shops,  shipyards  backing  on  the 
beach,  and  dwelling  houses  opposite,  facing  the  harbor  view. 
The  flavor  of  the  sea  is  over  all.  Dooryards  are  decorated 
with  whales'  jaws,  ships'  cannon  or  figure-heads.  Festooned 
fins  ornament  the  fences.  Some  of  the  houses  have  jutting 
upper  stories.  Here  are  mansions  of  former  sea-captains  and 
innumerable  modern  and  cheaper  constructions. 

The  Pilgrim  Monument  (250  ft)  on  Town  Hill,  commemo- 
rating the  first  landing,  dominates  sea  and  land.  Its  corner- 
stone was  laid  by  Roosevelt  and  dedicated  by  Taft,  Aug.  5, 
1910.  It  is  the  tallest  masonry  tower  in  this  country  except 
the  Washington  Monument.  In  design  it  follows  the  noted 
Torre  del  Mangia  of  Siena.  It  is  of  rough-faced  Maine  granite 
and  cost  $100,000.  The  Universalist  Church  with  its  perfectly 
balanced  towers  is  one  of  the  finest  Colonial  churches  on  the 
Cape, — even  in  New  England.  It  is  claimed  that  it  was  built 
from  original  designs  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren. 


R.  30  §  2.     PLYMOUTH  TO  PROVINCETOWN  555 

A  touch  of  local  color  is  given  by  the  settlements  of  Portu- 
guese, locally  called  'Portagees,'  most  of  whom  originally 
came  from  the  Azores.  They  work  at  gardening,  in  the  can- 
ning factories,  or  tend  the  fish-weirs.  Many  return  to  the 
Azores  with  their  savings,  but  an  ever-increasing  number  settle 
permanently  on  the  Cape.  About  nine  tenths  of  the  people 
in  Barnstable  County  are  of  English  descent,  but  a  very  large 
proportion  of  the  foreign  element  is  Portuguese. 

Provincetown  is  the  home  of  the  'Ambergris  King,'  Mr. 
David  C.  Stull.  This  very  rare  substance,  which  comes  only 
from  diseased  sperm  whales,  is  used  as  the  basis  of  perfumes. 
Mr.  Stull,  as  purchasing  agent  for  French  perfumers,  deals  in 
more  ambergris  than  any  other  man  in  the  world.  A  pound  of 
pure  ambergris  is  worth  about  $500.  It  is  said  that  in  the 
history  of  the  world  only  about  a  ton  and  a  half  has  been  offered 
for  sale  and  that  Mr.  Stull  has  bought  half  that  amount. 

Cape  Cod  has  been  likened  to  a  vast  fish-hook  reaching  into 
the  sea,  with  Race  Point  as  the  tip  of  the  hook  and  Long  Point 
as  the  barb.  The  waves  and  currents  have  formed  this  hook 
from  the  sand  blown  from  the  great  dunes.  Two  miles  west- 
ward from  Long  Point  is  Wood  End.  Station,  the  first  of  a 
string  of  life-saving  stations  that  extend  along  the  Cape. 
Near  Race  Point,  Provincetown,  the  British  frigate  "Somer- 
set" was  wrecked  in  1778  and  480  men  were  made  prisoners. 

The  hinterland  of  Provincetown  is  a  region  of  great  sand 
dunes,  ever  changing,  advancing,  creeping  forward.  These 
"Province  Lands"  still  belong  to  the  Commonwealth  and  are 
in  charge  of  a  State  superintendent.  3300  acres  of  the  tip  of 
the  Cape  have  been  an  outdoor  laboratory  for  a  succession  of 
experiments  during  the  last  twenty-five  years.  Forests  ex- 
isted here  in  early  times,  but  were  destroyed  by  fires  and  graz- 
ing. As  early  as  1825  a  State  Commissioner  was  appointed 
to  find  a  method  to  prevent  the  shifting  of  the  sands  by  the 
fifty-mile  gales,  and  the  pulling  or  cutting  of  beach  grass  and 
the  pasturing  of  cattle  was  forbidden.  In  1885  systematic 
forestry  experiments  were  started;  good  results  have  been 
obtained  by  planting  bayberries,  and  trees  such  as  silver  oak 
and  the  native  pine.  In  1907  alone  about  40,000  pines  were 
planted.  Congress  has  appropriated  funds  to  aid  in  this 
reclamation  work  and  to  improve  Provincetown.  This  tract 
will  probably  form  part  of  a  future  great  state  park. 

The  first  white  men's  visit  to  this  region  was  probably  that  of  the 
Norsemen,  1006,  chronicled  in  the  "Saga  of  Eric  the  Red,"  whose 
Furdurstrandi,  or  "gleaming  strands,"  tally  remarkably  with  the 
glistening  dunes  of  the  eastern  shore.  Provincetown  was  probably 
visited  by  Cortereal  as  early  as  1501.  Gosnold  explored  it  in  1602 
and  Joe  Smith  loitered  here  in  1614.  The  tip  of  Cape  Cod  was  the 


556  PROVINCE-TOWN 

first  land  which  the  Pilgrims  sighted.  They  anchored  Nov.  11,  1620, 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  shore,  in  Provincetown  Harbor.  In 
order  to  land  they  were  forced  to  wade  a  "bow  shot."  Here,  on  board 
the  "Mayflower"  was  born  Peregrine  White,  the  first  New  Englander 
of  European  parentage  (p  533).  While  the  "Mayflower"  lay  in  this 
harbor,  the  celebrated  "Compact"  was  drawn  up  and  signed  by  the 
forty-one  men  of  the  company.  This  was  before  suffragette  days  so 
the  women  were  not  even  asked  to  sign.  It  was  brief  and  read: 

"In  the  name  of  God,  Amen.  We,  whose  names  are  underwritten, 
the  loyal  subjects  of  our  dread  sovereign  lord,  King  James,  by  the  grace 
of_  God,  of  Great  Britain,  France,  and  Ireland,  King,  defender  of  the 
faith,  &c.,  having  undertaken,  for  the  glory  of  God,  and  advancement  of 
the  Christian  faith,  and  honor  of  our  king  and  country,  a  voyage  to 
plant  the  first  colony  in  the  northern  parts  of  Virginia,  do,  by  these 
presents,  solemnly  and  mutually,  in  the  presence  of  God  and  of  one 
anothftr,  covenant  and  combine  ourselves  together  into  a  civil  body 
politic,  for  our  better  ordering  and  preservation,  and  furtherance  of 
the  ends  aforesaid;  and  by  virtue  hereof  to  enact,  constitute,  and  frame 
such  just  and  equal  laws,  ordinances,  acts,  constitutions,  and  offices, 
from  time  to  time,  as  shall  be  thought  most  meet  and  expedient  for 
the  general  good  of  the  colony;  unto  which  we  promise  all  due  submis- 
sion and  obedience.  In  witness  whereof  we  have  hereunder  inscribed 
our  names,  at  Cape  Cod,  the  nth  of  November,  in  the  year  of  the  reign 
of  our  sovereign  lord,  King  James,  of  England,  France,  and  Ireland, 
the  i8th,  and  of  Scotland  the  54th,  Anno  Domini,  1620." 

Standish  and  sixteen  men  with  "musket,  sword,  and  corslet," 
landed  at  Long  Point  to  spy  out  the  land.  They  chased  the  unre- 
sisting Indians,  pillaged  graves,  and  carried  off  everything  portable. 

The  whaling  industry  of  the  United  States  began  here,  and  Nan- 
tucket  learned  its  methods  from  her  neighbor.  In  the  early  days, 
whales  swam  along  the  shore  of  Cape  Cod.  Watchmen  stationed  on 
the  hills  signaled  when  one  was  in  sight  and  the  boats  were  rushed  out. 
Cotton  Mather  refers  to  the  fisheries,  and  even  in  1730  six  small  whales 
were  taken  in  a  harbor.  Later  in  the  century  when  it  became  neces- 
sary to  go  further  and  further  afield  in  search  of  whales,  Nantucket 
completely  eclipsed  Provincetown  and  became  the  center  of  the  indus- 
try. In  1865,  Provincetown  still  had  twenty-eight  vessels  with  500 
men  in  the  whaling  fisheries. 

The  town  dates  from  1727,  and  the  inhabitants,  because  of  their 
exposed  and  perilous  position,  were  exempt  from  taxes  and  military 
duty,  hence  its  incorporation  as  the  'Province  Town.'  In  1748,  we 
are  told,  so  many  had  moved  away  or  been  lost  at  sea  that  only  three 
houses  were  left.  The  Government  bought  the  land  and  houses  to 
protect  the  harbor,  and  the  houses  were  floated  across.  A  store  now 
standing  near  the  railway  station  was  a  school  house  before  it  was 
floated  across  the  harbor.  During  the  War  of  1812  the  harbor  was 
the  rendezvous  of  the  British  frigates.  It  was  in  Provincetown  that 
Mason  and  Slidell,  the  envoys  of  the  Confederate  States  to  Great 
Britain  and  France,  who  had  been  forcibly  taken  from  the  British 
ship,  "Trent,"  were  restored  by  the  Federal  authorities  to  H.M.S.  "Ri- 
naldo,"  after  their  detention  at  Fort  Warren,  in  Boston  Harbor. 


R.  31.     BOSTON  to  CHATHAM  &  ORLEANS.        1305m. 
Via  BROCKTON,  BRIDGEWATER,  MIDDLEBORO,  and  the  SOUTH 

SHORE  OF  CAPE  COD. 

This  route  is  the  most  direct  to  Buzzards  Bay  and  Cape  Cod. 
Scenically  it  is  less  attractive  than  Route  30  (p  517),  along 
the  coast.  It  crosses  the  Blue  Hills  and  passes  through  the 
Brockton  shoe  belt  to  the  little  industrial  towns  of  Bridge- 
water  and  Middleboro.  For  the  most  part  the  road  is  lined 
with  rather  dense  growth  of  birch,  scrub-oak,  and  other  small 
trees  as  far  as  Wareham.  From  this  point  the  route  skirts 
the  shore  of  Buzzards  Bay  to  the  south  side  of  the  Cape,  con- 
necting with  Route  30  at  Orleans.  Throughout  it  is  State 
Road  marked  with  blue  bands  on  poles  and  posts  at  all  doubt- 
ful points  from  the  Milton-Quincy  town  line  in  the  Blue  Hills. 

R.  31  §  1.  Boston  to  Buzzards  Bay.  60.5  m. 

Via  BROCKTON,  MIDDLEBORO,  and  WAREHAM. 

Leaving  Boston  via-  the  Park  System  (p  476)  to  Blue  Hill 
Ave.  (7.0),  turn  right  to  MATTAPAN  (9.0),  cross  the  bridge  over 
the  Neponset  river  and  follow  the  trolley  that  forks  left. 

Note.  A  less  direct  route,  avoiding  several  miles  of  Brock- 
ton cobblestones,  follows  Route  32  (p  572)  to  South  Easton 
and  thence  to  West  Bridgewater.  Another  follows  Route  30 
(p  517)  through  Milton  Lower  Mills  and  at  the  top  of  the  first 
incline  of  Milton  Long  Hill  turns  right  on  Randolph  Ave. 

Following  the  trolley  from  Mattapan  for  about  two  and  a 
half  miles  and  turning  right  at  the  crossroads  beyond  the  trolley 
car  barn,  the  route  follows  Randolph  Ave.,  descending  the  hill 
into  the  willowy  hollow  where  the  Blue  Hill  Reservation  (p 
477)  commences  on  the  left. 

Note.  Hillside  Street  (12.0),  also  called  Blue  Hill  Street,  on  Route 
21  (p  477),  forks  right  by  the  little  church  through  the  Blue  Hills  to 
Ponkapog  (5.5),  joining  Route  32  (p  573).  This  typical  New  England 
lane  is  one  of  the  prettiest  near  Boston,  leading  past  several  little  farms 
and  through  the  Reservation  to  Hoosickwhisick,  or  Houghton's  Pond. 
A  mile  beyond  the  pond,  under  the  very  brow  of  the  Great  Blue  Hill, 
which  is  here  all  but  precipitous,  is  the  Forbes  Stock  Farm. 

The  main  route,  along  Randolph  Ave.,  now  plunges  through 
a  notch  in  the  hills  with  Chickatawbut  Hill  (518  ft)  on  the  left. 
Here  until  recently  rattlesnakes  still  lurked,  and  even  today 
foxes  and  such  'varmin'  are  occasionally  seen.  The  country 
is  well  wooded,  though  with  that  youngish,  thick-set  growth 
which  is  an  almost  regrettable  feature  of  eastern  Massachu- 
setts. The  Reservation  woodsmen  have  thinned  out  the 
underbrush  and  given  the  more  promising  trees  plenty  of  light. 

(557) 


558  RANDOLPH— BRIDGEWATER 

From  here  the  route  is  marked  by  blue  bands  on  poles  and 
posts  at  doubtful  points. 

17.0  RANDOLPH.  Alt  200  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4301  (1910),  4734  (1915). 
Norfolk  Co.  Inc.  1793.  Mfg.  men's  shoes. 

The  village  of  Randolph  marks  the  northern  entrance  into 
the  Brockton  shoe  belt.  It  consists  principally  of  a  long  elm- 
shaded  main  street  on  the  edge  of  a  ridge  which  slopes  east- 
ward toward  Braintree  and  the  Weymouths. 

It  was  named  in  honor  of  Peyton  Randolph,  a  noted  Vir- 
ginian, and  was  long  the  home  of  Miss  Mary  E.  Wilkins,  the 
famous  writer  of  New  England  stories,  before  her  marriage  to 
Dr.  Freeman  of  Metuchen,  N.J.  The  scene  of  several  of  her 
stories  is  laid  in  Randolph,  and  "Leyden,"  in  her  "Two  Old 
Lovers,"  is  very  evidently  intended  for  Randolph.  The  chief 
industry  is  the  manufacture  of  men's  shoes. 

19.0  AVON.  Alt  180  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2013  (1910),  2164  (1915).  Nor- 
folk Co.  Inc.  1888.  Mfg.  shoes. 

Avon  is  a  suburb  of  Brockton,  with  one  or  two  shoe  plants. 

Half  a  mile  beyond  Avon,  the  route  enters  Plymouth  County 
and  turns  to  the  right  of  the  cemetery  into  Ford  St.,  leaving 
the  trolley.  At  the  end  of  the  street,  the  road  turns  to  the 
left  on  North  Warren  Ave.  This  detour  avoids  the  rougher 
and  more  congested  conditions  of  Main  St.  in  Brockton. 

23.5     BROCKTON.     Alt  128  ft.     Pop  56 ,87 '8  (1910),  62,288  (1915); 

one    quarter   foreign-born.      Plymouth    Co.     Settled    1645. 

Mfg.  shoes,  shoe  supplies  and  tools,  blacking,  motorcycles, 

and  machinery. 

Brockton  is  the  leading  center  in  the  country  for  the  manu- 
facture of  men's  shoes.  Here  more  than  thirty  factories  pro- 
duce 20,000,000  pairs  of  shoes  a  year,  valued  at  $50,000,000. 
In  addition,  there  are  135  factories  producing  leather,  machin- 
ery, lasts,  etc.  More  than  13,000  wage-earners  are  employed 
in  these  industries.  During  the  last  ten  years  the  output  has 
increased  60  per  cent  and  is  still  growing  rapidly.  Advertising 
campaigns  have  made  Brockton  shoes  and  the  face  of  at  least 
one  of  their  manufacturers,  W.  L.  Douglas,  familiar  the  world 
over.  All  the  surrounding  towns  and  villages  have  followed 
Brockton's  lead  and  form  an  active  'Shoe  Belt.'  Within 
a  six-mile  radius  there  is  a  population  of  106,000. 

Brockton  claims  to  have  been  the  first  city  in  the  world  to 
light  its  streets  by  electricity,  and  the  first  to  run  electric  cars, 
Edison  himself  coming  on  from  New  York  to  watch  the  wheels 
go  round.  It  has  a  good  system  of  parks  and  some  costly 
residences  belonging  to  the  shoe  magnates.  Early  in  October 
Brockton  is  the  scene  of  the  largest  county  fair  in  the  country. 


R.  31  §  I-  BOSTON  TO  BUZZARDS  BAY  559 

At  Montello,  the  northern  part  of  the  city,  is  the  W.  L. 
Douglas  shoe  plant.  Mr.  Douglas  was  Governor  of  Massa- 
chusetts in  1905-06.  Campello,  the  southern  suburb  of 
Brockton,  contains  a  large  Swedish  population.  Here  is 
located  the  extensive  plant  of  the  Geo.  E.  Keith  Co.,  manu- 
facturers of  the  Walk-Over  shoe. 

In  his  youth,  William  Cullen  Bryant  walked  daily  from  the 
homestead  of  Dr.  Philip  Bryant  at  Marshalls  Corners  to  West 
Bridgewater  to  peruse  musty  tomes  from  the  law  library  of 
the  Hon.  William  Baylies. 

Turning  left  into  Clifton  Ave.  (25.0)  and  right  into  Main 
St.,  the  route  follows  the  blue  markers  through  the  hamlet  of 
West  Bridgewater  (28.0),  the  home  of  the  Howard  Seminary. 

30.5     BRIDGEWATER      Alt   62  ft.     Pop    (twp)    7668    (1910),   9381 
(1915).     Plymouth  Co.     Settled  1645.     Indian  name  Nunke- 
teset.     Mfg.  shoes   and   slippers,   machinery,    cotton    gins, 
brick,  boxes,  and  nails.     State  Normal  School. 
Bridgewater,  a  fine  old  town  with  broad,  shady  streets,  is 
'  the  home  of  several  interesting  industries.     The  Continental 
Gin   Company   manufactures   three  quarters  of   the  ginning 
machinery  used  and  has  one  of  its  important  plants  here.     Two 
hundred  and  fifty  hands  are  employed  in  the  manufacture  of 
bricks.     The  extensive  grounds  of  the  State  Normal  School 
lie  on  both  sides  of  the  road  near  the  center  of  the  town.     It  is 
the  third  oldest  in  the  country,  established  in  1840,  and  is  the 
largest  in  the  State.     Its  seventy-fifth  anniversary  was  re- 
cently celebrated   by  an  historical  pageant.     An  alternative 
route  from  Boston  enters  here  (p  483). 

Miles  Standish  bought  lands  here  from  the  Indians  in  1645,  and 
a  settlement  was  soon  after  established  at  what  is  now  West  Bridge- 
water.  From  its  earliest  days  it  has  been  an  industrial  community. 
The  first  settlers  were  farmers  and  traders  who  soon  began  to  develop 
local  resources  so  that  very  soon  iron  was  manufactured  here  from 
native  ore.  The  first  muskets  made  in  this  country  were  manufac- 
tured here  in  1748  for  the  Province  of  Massachusetts  by  Hugh  Orr,  a 
Scotchman.  Orr  was  the  inventor  also  of  a  spinning  machine.  His 
house  is  still  standing  on  Vinton  Corner  at  East  Bridgewater,  two 
miles  to  the  northeast.  During  the  Revolution  he  made  great  num- 
bers of  cannon  and  cannon  balls  for  the  Continental  Army.  From 
those  early  Colonial  days  to  the  present,  the  iron  industry  and  the 
production  of  machinery  have  been  the  leading  enterprises  here. 
Bridgewater  made  castings  for  the  iron  monitors  of  the  Civil  War. 
The  manufacture  of  cotton  gins  was  begun  here  in  1816  by  Eleazar 
Carver,  whose  inventive  skill  perfected  the  original  Whitney  gin. 

Between  Bridgewater  and  Middleboro  the  State  Road,  with 
blue  markers,  passes  the  well  cultivated  fields  of  the  State 
Farm  in  the  vicinity  known  as  Titicut.  This  is  the  biggest 
farm  in  Massachusetts,  with  an  area  of  two  square  miles,  and 
valued  at  a  million  dollars.  The  inmates  here  the  year  round 


560  BRIDGE  WATER— ONSET 

average  about  1900.  Potatoes,  beets,  and  hay  are  raised  in 
large  crops.  All  work  is  done  by  the  prisoners.  The  stoutest 
men,  familiarly  known  as  'the  bulldog  gang,'  take  the  stumps 
out  of  new  land. 

39.0  MIDDLEBORO.  Alt  110  ft.  Pop  (twp)  8214  (1910),  8631 
(1915).  Plymouth  Co.  Settled  1662.  Indian  name  Ne- 
masket.  Mfg  shoes,  woolens,  varnish,  iron  and  brass  goods, 
tiles,  locks,  jewelry,  and  boxes. 

Middleboro  is  a  prosperous  country  manufacturing  town. 
William  Bayard  Hale,  President  Wilson's  investigator  in 
Mexico  and  afterward  his  opponent  in  things  political,  was 
formerly  pastor  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  on  the  left. 

The  Countess  Lavinia  Magri,  formerly  Mrs.  General  Tom 
Thumb,  is  a  native  and  resident  of  Middleboro.  The  section 
known  as  Warrentown,  where  generations  of  WTarrens,  of  which 
she  is  the  eighth,  have  lived,  was  the  scene  in  the  fall  of  1915 
of  the  celebration  of  her  seventy-fourth  birthday,  on  which 
occasion  she  dedicated  on  the  lawn  of  her  home  a  boulder  with 
a  bronze  tablet  in  memory  of  Richard  Warren,  the  "May- 
flower" founder  of  the  family. 

On  Barden  Hill  was  completed  in  1915  the  highest  water 
tower  (170  ft)  of  its  kind  in  the  world,  a  huge  cylinder  of  re- 
enforced  concrete,  with  a  capacity  of  half  a  million  gallons. 

Route  16,  from  Providence  to  Kingston  and  Plymouth, 
crosses  here  (p  432). 

Note.  South  of  Middleboro  are  the  Great  Lakeville  ponds.  The 
road  running  by  them  leads  to  Marion  or  New  Bedford.  Asowamset 
Pond,  a  mile  or  so  out  of  Middleboro,  is  the  largest  sheet  of  fresh  water 
in  the  State,  from  six  to  eight  square  miles.  It  was  here  that  the 
Indian  Chief  Corbitant  revolted  against  Massasoit  in  1621  and  seized 
the  Plymouth  envoys.  Standish  marched  out,  fell  upon  Corbitant's 
camp  by  night,  and  achieved  success  in  the  first  warlike  expedition 
made  from  Plymouth.  Long  Pond  and  Quittacas  Pond  are  the  next 
two  largest  of  the  group.  South  of  the  lakes  and  two  miles  away  is 
the  secluded  old  town  of  Rochester  in  the  midst  of  farming  country. 
This  is  the  mother  town  of  Marion,  Mattapoisett,  and  Wareham. 

As  its  name  implies,  Middleboro  is  centrally  located  for  the  dis- 
tributing region  it  serves.  The  origin  of  the  name  may  have  been 
from  Middleborough  North  Riding  near  York,  England,  or  more  prob- 
ably because  of  its  location  between  the  Pilgrim  settlement  at  Plym- 
outh and  the  village  of  the  Indian  Sachem  Massasoit,  near  Bristol, 
R.I.  The  first  rolling  or  slitting  mill  in  the  country  was  here  erected 
and  produced  nail  rods  from  which  the  nails  were  hammered  out. 

From  Middleboro  to  Wareham  the  State  Road,  blue  bands, 
runs  through  a  rather  flat  and  monotonous  country  inter- 
spersed with  farms  and  tracts  of  scrub  oak  and  pine.  Before 
entering  Wareham  the  route  passes  through  the  grimy  little 
industrial  hamlet  of  Tremont  (50.0),  a  railroad  junction,  at 
which  is  a  steel  plant.  The  village  of  SOUTH  WAREHAM  (51.5) 
belies  its  name,  as  it  is  due  northwest  of  Wareham.  By  the 


R.  31    §  I-     BOSTON  TO  BUZZARDS  BAY  561 

riverbank  are  the  works  of  the  Standard  Horseshoe  Company. 
The  road  runs  over  Lincoln  Hill,  from  which'  there  is  a  good 
view  of  the  valley  of  the  Weweantit  river. 

53.0  WAREHAM.  Alt  19  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4102  (1910),  5176  (1915). 
Plymouth  Co.  Inc.  1739.  Mfg.  nails,  Cape  Cod  dories; 
oysters  and  cranberries. 

Wareham,  the  distributing  center  for  the  summer  resorts 
at  the  head  of  Buzzards  Bay,  rejoices  in  the  slogan  of  the 
"Gateway  to  the  Cape."  It  is  a  dull  old  village  on  the  Ware- 
ham  river,  a  tidal  estuary,  on  the  shores  of  which  are  numerous 
summer  residences. 

At  the  Center  is  the  new  Congregational  Church  building 
and  the  tall  Soldiers  and  Sailors'  Monument.  On  either  side 
of  the  shady  main  street  are  a  number  of  old  residences  which 
formerly  belonged  to  the  Colonial  iron  masters,  for  this  was 
once  an  iron  smelting  center.  The  stone  clock-tower  on  the 
little  Church  of  the  Good  Shepherd  is  a  memorial  to  Mrs. 
Tobey,  who  lived  to  the  vigorous  age  of  one  hundred  years. 
She  was  the  wife  of  the  founder  of  the  local  nail  industry.  The 
business  section  of  the  town  is  reached  at  The  Narrows. 

Wareham  was  settled  early  in  the  seventeenth  century,  shortly  after 
Plymouth.  In  the  early  days  its  iron  works  were  important,  making 
use  of  the  bog  iron  from  the  neighboring  ponds  and  river  beds.  In 
1814  the  British  frigate  "Nimrod"  came  up  the  bay,  set  fire  to  the 
wharves  and  vessels,  and  sent  a  cannon  ball  into  the  Parker  Mills  iron 
works.  Following  this  the  people  seized  their  guns  and  hurried  to 
Fairhaven,  which  the  "Nimrod"  was  threatening,  and  succeeded  in 
driving  off  the  enemy. 

Years  ago  the  name  of  Wareham  was  associated  in  many  people's 
minds  with  the  question  asked  the  late  veteran  actor  Joe  Jefferson  by 
a  young  lady  bicyclist  clad  in  bloomers, — "Is  this  the  way  to  wear  'em?" 

Crossing  the  Wareham  river,  the  highway  continues  to 
EAST  WAREHAM,  or  Agawam  (56.5),  where  on  the  right  just 
below  the  dam  and  the  wide  mill  pond  is  the  New  Bedford  and 
Agawam  Finishing  Works,  a  plant  for  bleaching,  finishing,  and 
dyeing  cotton  cloth.  Beside  the  river  the  Squirrel's  Nest  Inn 
occupies  an  old  Colonial  mansion  which  formerly  entertained 
Daniel  Webster  and  other  notables. 

56.7     ONSET.     (Part  of  Wareham  twp.)     Plymouth  Co. 

Onset,  situated  at  the  head  of  Buzzards  Bay,  is  one  of  the 
most  populous  resorts  of  the  Cape  region,  and  during  the  sum- 
mer thousands  throng  here  in  cottages  and  camps  of  almost 
every  description.  The  village  is  spread  out  in  a  grove  of 
oaks,  and  the  trees  grow  to  the  very  edge  of  a  high  bluff,  along 
which  a  boulevard  has  been  laid  out  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  bay.  Onset  Bay,  still  lovely  although  its  shores  are 
crowded,  is  famous  for  its  fishing,  its  clams  and  oysters.  The 
oyster  dredging  is  controlled  by  town  grants,  the  beds  being 


562  ONSET— BUZZARDS   BAY 

carefully  surveyed  and  plotted.  There  is  a  large  colony  of 
Spiritualists  here  and  their  annual  camp-meeting  attracts 
hundreds  more. 

Point  Independence,  a  favorite  resort,  commands  beautiful 
views  of  the  bay.  Off  the  shore  lies  Wicket  Island.  South  of 
Onset,  between  Onset  Bay  and  Wareham  River,  lies  Great 
Neck  with  a  number  of  summer  estates. 

Onset  was  originally  an  Indian  settlement,  and  there  is  a  curious 
Indian  Museum  here  in  the  Wigwam  in  Onset  Grove.  Members  of 
tribes  of  the  West  have  donated  articles  to  make  the  Wigwam  a  gen- 
uine memorial  to  their  race, — savage-looking  war  clubs,  calumets  (or 
peace-pipes),  blankets,  and  hosts  of  other  curiosities. 

After  leaving  Onset  the  road  follows  the  blue  markers  over 
the  salt  marshes  at  the  head  of  Buzzards  Bay.  Buttermilk 
Bay  to  the  northeast,  with  its  winding  wooded  shores,  is  one 
of  the  most  attractive  spots  on  the  Cape.  On  crossing  the 
bridge  at  Cohasset  Narrows,  the  rushing  outlet  of  the  bay,  at 
the  left  is  the  cottage  formerly  occupied  by  Ex-president  Taft. 

Around  the  point,  half  hidden  by  the  trees,  lies  the  estate 
of  Dr.  Elisha  Flagg,  which  was  long  the  favorite  residence  of 
Joe  Jefferson,  the  famous  actor.  Jefferson  was  so  charmed  with 
the  surroundings  that  he  decided  to  have  his  summer  home 
here  and  induced  his  sons  to  follow  his  example,  so  that  a  Jef- 
ferson colony  was  formed.  Crows  Nest,  Jefferson's  home,  so 
named  on  account  of  the  number  of  crows  seen  about  the  bay, 
was  rebuilt  after  a  fire  in  1893,  largely  from  his  own  plans. 

Jefferson  spent  most  of  his  summers  here  and  took  an  active  interest 
in  promoting  the  welfare  of  the  Cape.  He  was  the  leading  spirit  of 
the  Old  Colony  Club,  an  organization  interested  in  preserving  the 
natural  beauty  and  fisheries  of  this  region.  He  was  a  landscape 
painter  of  true  ability.  One  of  the  windmills  common  on  the  estates 
in  this  locality  was  a  scenic  treasure  of  the  actor's.  Here  he  fitted  up 
a  studio  and  from  the  lookout  he  could  survey  a  stretch  of  forty  miles 
of  woods  and  ponds,  from  Plymouth  to  Woods  Hole. 

60.5     BUZZARDS  BAY.     (Part  of  Bourne  twp.)     Barnstable  Co. 

This  is  the  station  for  the  surrounding  summer  colonies  and 
an  important  railway  junction  where  the  lines  for  Woods  Hole 
and  Provincetown  branch.  The  road  from  the  left  connects 
with  Route  30  (p  543)  on  the  north  shore  of  the  Cape. 

The  wellknown  Gray  Gables,  home  of  Grover  Cleveland, 
stands  on  a  tongue  of  land  which  juts  into  the  bay.  Nearby 
is  the  home  of  General  Taylor,  part  owner  of  the  "Boston 
Globe."  A  short  walk  along  Gray  Gables  road  toward  the 
sea  from  Buzzards  Bay  station  leads  to  Camp  Wampanoag, 
a  wellknown  summer  camp  for  boys. 

Grover  Cleveland  and  Joseph  Jefferson,  boon  companions, 
passed  many  happy  summers  here,  fishing  in  the  bay  and  troll- 
ing the  inland  waters.  President  Cleveland  caused  many  of 


R.  31   §   I-     BOSTON  TO  BUZZARDS  BAY  563 


the  nearby  ponds  to  be  stocked  with  bass  and  trout.  Today 
the  State  of  Massachusetts  is  careful  to  prevent  the  fish  from 
becoming  exterminated,  and  the  use  of  nets,  traps,  pounds 
or  weirs  is  forbidden  by  legislative  enactment.  The  waters, 
but  sixty  feet  at  their  greatest  depth,  are  the  haunt  of  bluefish, 
sea  bass,  squeteague,  scup,  and  tautog.  Squeteague  and  scup 
are  the  most  plentiful,  bluefish  the  gamiest. 

On  the  south  bank  of  Monument  River,  halfway  between  Gray 
Gables  and  the  R.R.  bridge,  is  the  spot  where  the  Pilgrims  in  1627 
established  a  trading  post,  at  which  they  met  Dutch  merchants  from 
New  Amsterdam.  In  bringing  their  goods  to  the  post  they  used  the 
Scusset  and  Monument  rivers,  making  a  carry  between,  even  thus 
early  outlining  the  present  route  of  the  canal.  The  bay  was  called 
Gosnold's  Hope  by  Gosnold's  expedition  of  1602.  The  early  settlers 
renamed  it,  according  to  "Brereton's  Relation,"  because  of  the  large 
number  of  buzzardets,  or  fish-hawks,  which  they  saw. 

Just  beyond  the  Buzzards  Bay  R.R.  station,  the  road  to 
Provincetown  and  Woods  Hole  is  carried  across  the  Cape  Cod 
Canal  by  a  new  22OO-foot  steel  bridge.  Its  single  lift  span, 
1 60  feet  in  width,  can  be  raised  in  less  than  one  minute  to 
permit  the  passing  of  vessels  through  the  canal.  A  large  area 
of  lowland  round  about  here  has  been  reclaimed  by  filling  in 
the  material  excavated  from  the  canal  prism. 

THE  CAPE  COD  CANAL  is  eight  miles  long.  From  the  head 
of  Buzzards  Bay,  it  follows  the  valley  of  Monument  River. 
Eventually  it  will  have  a  depth  of  thirty-five  feet  and  a  mini- 
mum bottom  width  of  one  hundred  feet,  accommodating  ves- 
sels of  the  largest  size.  The  dredged  approach  channel  at  the 
Buzzards  Bay  end  is  four  miles  in  length.  The  current  in  the 
canal  runs  about  eight  miles  an  hour  and  is  caused  by  the  dif- 
ference of  three  hours  and  twenty  minutes  in  the  time  of  high 
tide  in  Buzzards  Bay  and  Barnstable  Bay. 

The  canal  was  formally  opened  in  August,  1914,  with  an 
imposing  pageant  enacted  at  Bourne  (p  543),  depicting  scenes 
from  Cape  Cod  history,  in  which  twenty-five  towns  took  part. 
The  canal  shortens  the  distance  from  Boston  to  New  York  and 
southern  ports  by  seventy  miles  and  makes  it  possible  to  elimi- 
nate the  dangerous  voyage  around  the  Cape  in  which  during 
the  past  sixty  years  2500  vessels  have  been  wrecked  and  800 
lives  lost.  The  rates  of  toll  vary  from  a  minimum  of  $3  for 
small  pleasure-boats  to  $100  for  thousand-ton  boats  and  from 
seven  to  ten  cents  for  each  additional  ton. 

The  canal  project  goes  back  to  the  time  of  the  earliest  settlement, 
when  Miles  Standish  was  its  first  ardent  advocate.  In  1697  the  Mas- 
sachusetts General  Court  appointed  a  commission  of  inquiry,  but  noth- 
ing came  of  it.  Interest  in  the  project  was  continually  revived.  Gen- 
eral Knox  and  Secretary  Gallatin  were  among  those  who  advocated  it. 
George  Washington  became  interested  and  in  1776  wrote  to  James 
Bowdoin  of  Boston,  "I  am  hopeful  that  you  have  applied  to  General 


564  BUZZARDS   BAY— FALMOUTH 

Hood  ...  in  determining  upon  the  practicability  of  cutting  a  canal 
between  Barnstable  and  Buzzards  Bay  ere  this."  In  1802  Wendell 
Davis  wrote:  "The  projected  canal,  if  it  ever  should  be  accomplished, 
would  open  almost  a  new  creation  to  this  part  of  the  town"  [Sandwich]. 
"Real  property  situated  on  its  banks  would  be  greatly  enhanced  in 
value  .  .  .  and  a  trade  between  the  southern  and  northern  states  facili- 
tated." In  1825  the  route  was  surveyed  and  the  engineers  reported 
favorably.  The  project  was  again  in  the  air  in  1860,  when  interrupted  by 
the  Civil  War.  Twenty  years  later  a  Cape  Cod  Ship  Canal  Company 
was  incorporated  and  work  commenced,  but  failed  for  lack  of  capital. 

The  present  Cape  Cod  Canal  Company,  a  private  corporation  under 
Massachusetts  charter,  owes  its  success  to  its  president,  August  Bel- 
mont,  who  provided  much  of  the  necessary  $12,000,000  capital.  Actual 
construction  began  in  igog  under  William  B.  Parsons,  the  engineer 
of  the  first  New  York  subway.  Work  was  begun  at  both  ends  by  great 
suction  dredges  which  discharged  the  water  and  sand  to  fill  in  the 
lowlands  on  either  side. 

I 

R.  31  §  2.     Buzzards  Bay  to  Chatham  and  Orleans.     70.0  m. 
Via  FALMOUTH  and  HYANNIS. 

The  State  Road,  marked  by  blue  bands  throughout,  from 
Buzzards  Bay  to  Falmouth  follows  a  nearly  straight  course 
avoiding  the  many  windings  of  the  shore.  We  pass  in  succes- 
sion Monument  Beach,  Wenaumet  Neck,  and  Red  Brook 
Harbor,  Cataumet,  North  Falmouth,  and  West  Falmouth, 
all  wellknown  summer  colonies. 

To  the  left  the  forests  of  the  Cape  stretch  away  to  Sandwich, 
Barnstable,  and  the  northern  shore.  Their  most  character- 
istic feature  is  the  scrub-oak,  which  grows  in  great  profusion. 
Fires  are  frequent  in  dry  seasons,  and  large  sections  of  the  Cape 
are  burned  over  every  year.  Although  sometimes  caused  by 
engine  sparks,  they  are  more  often  due  to  the  carelessness  of 
berry  pickers.  It  may  be  said  in  passing  that  an  abundance 
of  huckleberries  follows  the  course  of  a  fire  the  next  year.  On 
this  part  of  the  Cape  there  are  a  great  many  fresh-water  ponds, 
some  of  them  well  stocked  by  State  and  town,  and  by  the  Fish 
Commission  at  Woods  Hole.  In  many  of  the  clearings  are 
the  little  farms  of  the  thrifty  'Portagees,'  as  all  the  old  Cape 
Codders  call  them. 

MONUMENT  BEACH  (3.0)  is  a  popular  summer  resort  with 
hotels  and  cottages.  There  is  a  large  colony  of  Brockton 
people  here,  including  the  wellknown  shoe  manufacturers 
Fred  Packard  and  W.  L.  Douglas,  whose  large  steam  yacht  is 
often  seen  just  off  the  shore. 

From  here  to  the  Falmouths  we  pass  through  a  succession 
of  vacation  villages.  WENAUMET  NECK  with  WINGS  NECK 
and  its  lighthouse  form  the  northern  shore  of  Pocasset  Harbor 
(5.5).  MEGANSETT  is  a  popular  summer  colony  on  a  bluff  at 


R.  31  §  2.     BUZZARDS  BAY  TO  CHATHAM  AND  ORLEANS     565 

the  entrance  to  Cataumet  Harbor  (7.0).  On  account  of  the 
splendid  anchorage  Cataumet  Harbor  is  an  important  yachting 
center.  A  little  coterie  of  Brookline  people  settled  on  Catau- 
met Neck,  and  among  the  earliest  was  Joshua  Crane. 

9.0     NORTH  FALMOUTH.     Alt  59  ft.     (Part  of  Falmouth  twp.) 

There  are  a  number  of  fine  residences  about  the  irregular, 
wooded  shores  of  Wild  Harbor,  which  is  reached  by  a  shell 
road.  The  beautiful  Downer  estate  is  on  Nyes  Point. 

West  Falmouth  Harbor  (12.3)  has  been  dredged  by  the 
State  and  affords  a  good  anchorage  for  yachts.  To  the  south 
is  Chappaquoit  Point,  a  favorite  place  of  summer  residence. 
At  the  harbor  mouth  is  Chappaquoit  Island,  owned  by  a  syndi- 
cate, one  of  whom  is  J.  L.  Richards,  president  of  the  Boston 
Consolidated  Gas  Company,  who  has  a  summer  home  here. 

16.5     FALMOUTH.     Alt  44ft.     Pop  (twp)  3144  (1910),  3917  (1915). 
Barnstable  Co.     Settled  1660.     Indian  name  Succanessett. 

Falmouth,  a  pleasant  old  town  with  some  quaint  houses  and 
fine  trees,  is  the  distributing  center  of  the  numerous  surround- 
ing summer  resorts.  Along  the  shore  are  some  of  the  finest 
estates  on  the  Cape.  To  the  east  are  the  Hammond  and 
Morse  estates;  nearer  Fresh  Pond,  the  summer  residences  of 
Dr.  E.  N.  Nichols,  the  Harvard  coach,  and  Ex-secretary  of 
State  Richard  Olney.  The  woods  afford  many  fine  walks 
and  drives,  especially  those  comprised  in  the  several  hundred 
acres  of  the  Beebe  estate,  and  Gilnochie,  the  Charles  Whitte- 
more  estate  to  the  west  of  the  town.  In  the  township  there 
are  forty-two  lakes  and  ponds. 

Bowman  Pond  has  been  dredged  by  the  U.S.  Government, 
making  it  an  excellent  anchorage  for  small  boats.  To  the 
east  of  the  pond  is  Falmouth  Heights,  a  popular  summer  re- 
sort with  a  splendid  outlook  on  Vineyard  Sound.  It  was 
opened  in  1870  by  a  syndicate  of  Worcester  men  who  bought 
the  land  and  parceled  it  out  in  small  house-lots. 

Falmouth  was  settled  in  1660  from  Barnstable  and  incorporated  in 
1686.  A  century  ago  it  was  a  flourishing  place  and  owned  about  sixty 
vessels  engaged  in  fishing  and  the  coast  trade.  Falmouth  took  an  active 
part  in  the  Revolution.  On  April  2,  1779,  an  English  fleet  appeared 
before  the  town  and  attempted  to  land.  Four  companies  of  militia 
under  the  command  of  Joseph  Dimmick  had  assembled  on  the  beach 
to  repel  the  invaders,  and  the  British  who  were  making  for  the  shore 
in  small  boats  deemed  it  prudent  to  retire  to  the  fleet.  The  vessels 
then  bombarded  the  town,  but  although  many  houses  were  hit  little 
damage  was  done.  During  the  War  of  1812  the  British  frigate 
"Nimrod"  appeared  in  the  Sound  and  demanded  the  guns  of  the 
Artillery  Company  of  Falmouth.  The  Revolutionary  hero,  Joseph 
Dimmick,  replied,  "If  you  want  these  cannon,  come  and  take  them," 
whereupon  the  town  was  again  bombarded. 

From  Falmouth  a  State  Road  continues  southwest  along  the 


566  FALMOUTH— MASHPEE 

land  overlooking  Salt  and  Oyster  Ponds.  Just  beyond  Oyster 
Pond  is  the  extensive  estate  of  E.  N.  Fenno,  with  beautiful 
drives  through  the  woods.  Roads  to  the  west  lead  to  Sippe- 
wissett,  where  there  is  a  summer  hotel  and  a  group  of  cottages 
overlooking  a  promontory  of  Buzzards  Bay. 

QUAMQUISSET,  called  Quisset  for  short,  has  a  beautiful 
landlocked  harbor  filled  with  small  pleasure  craft  during  the 
summer.  The  shores  about  are  occupied  by  residences  and 
estates  of  a  considerable  summer  colony  largely  made  up  of 
New  Yorkers.  The  Pierce  estate,  the  large  white  house  of 
which  is  half  hidden  by  the  trees,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful. 
S.  G.  Webster's  estate  has  beautiful  Italian  gardens. 

WOODS  HOLE  (3.0)  is  the  terminus  of  the  railroad,  the  point 
of  departure  of  daily  steamers  in  season,  running  from  New 
Bedford  to  Marthas  Vineyard  and  Nantucket,  and  the  most 
important  summer  center  of  biological  research  in  America. 
On  the  shore  are  the  large  buildings  of  the  U.S.  Bureau  of 
Fisheries,  a  residence,  and  a  hatchery  of  the  laboratory  building. 
On  the  ground  floor  of  the  latter  is  an  interesting  aquarium 
exhibit  which  should  be  visited.  Above  are  accommodations 
for  specialists"  engaged  in  biological  research. 

The  first  marine  laboratory  in  the  world  for  instruction  and  re- 
search was  constructed  by  Louis  Agassiz  on  the  island  of  Penikese, 
southwest  of  Woods  Hole.  The  late  Spencer  Baird,  the  first  U.S. 
Commissioner  of  Fisheries,  was  led  to  locate  his  station  here  because 
of  the  abundant  marine  life  in  the  local  waters.  This  in  turn  led  to 
the  establishment  of  the  Marine  Biological  Laboratory,  a  private 
institution  for  instruction  and  research  in  marine  biology.  This  has 
been  supported  through  the  cooperation  of  some  forty  colleges  and 
appropriations  from  the  Carnegie  Institution.  Mr.  Charles  R.  Crane, 
formerly  of  Chicago,  now  a  resident  of  Woods  Hole,  has  been  a  liberal 
donor,  and  it  was  through  his  generosity  that  the  brick  building  for 
research  and  for  the  library  was  made  possible.  Dr.  Oilman  Drew  is 
the  director.  The  summer  colony  of  biologists  includes  professors  and 
advanced  students  from  all  the  leading  colleges.  Prominent  among 
them  are  Dr.  Jacques  Loeb,  Dr.  E.  G.  Conklin,  Dr.  Ralph  S.  Lillie,  etc. 

To  the  west  the  long  arm  of  Penzance  stretches  out  into 
Buzzards  Bay.  This  until  twenty  years  ago  was  wholly  unin- 
habited except  for  a  fertilizer  factory.  Today  it  is  occupied 
by  some  of  the  finest  summer  homes  in  the  region. 

The  Fay  rose  gardens  here  are  famous.  Mr.  Walsh,  the 
gardener,  has  here  propagated  many  new  varieties.  Miss 
Sarah  Fay's  exhibit  garden  near  the  heart  of  the  village,  oppo- 
site the  school  house,  is  open  to  visitors.  Mrs.  H.  H.  Fay  has  a 
large  and  beautiful  estate  on  Nobska  Point  known  as  Rose 
Cottage.  This  has  been  leased  for  the  summer  of  1916  by  Sir 
Cecil  Arthur  Spring-Rice,  the  British  Ambassador.  The  elder 
Fay  of  a  previous  generation  planted  an  extensive  area  of  the 
hills  about  Woods  Hole  with  European  nursery  stock  brought 


R.  31  §  2.     BUZZARDS  BAY  TO  CHATHAM  AND  ORLEANS      567 

by  a  whaling  ship  from  Norway,  so  that  the  hills  are  now 
clothed  with  European  birches,  maples,  and  almost  wholly 
foreign  forest  flora. 

Woods  Hole  was  the  name  originally  given  to  the  channel 
between  the  mainland  and  Nonamesset  Island,  through  which 
the  tide  rushes  with  great  velocity.  A  hole  along  this  coast 
refers  to  such  a  narrow  channel  between  islands  (p  38).  The 
Elizabeth  Islands  extend  westward. 

From  Woods  Hole  a  road  skirts  the  shore  by  way  of  Nobska 
Point  to  Falmouth  Harbor. 

From  Falmouth  to  Chatham  the  southern  coast  of  Cape  Cod 
is  indented  by  numerous  bays  and  estuaries  so  that  the  main 
road  runs  well  back  from  the  ocean.  Many  of  these  bays  have 
been  cut  off  from  the  ocean  by  sandbars  and  some  of  them  are 
of  fresh  water  though  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  ocean. 
Back  from  the  shore  line  is  an  irregular  sandy  country,  for- 
ested with  birch,  pine,  and  scrub-oak,  with  here  and  there  a 
Portuguese  farm  in  a  small  clearing.  Much  of  the  woodland 
between  the  Falmouths  and  Barnstable  has  been  burned  over 
in  recent  years.  Numerous  lakes  occupy  the  hollows  between 
the  hills,  which  are  mostly  what  the  geologists  call  "kettle 
holes,"  places  where  great  masses  of  ice  from  the  retreating 
glacier  stood  while  the  glacial  sand  and  debris  was  piled  up 
about  them.  Many  of  the  low-lying  tracts  in  this  region  have 
in  recent  years  been  converted  into  cranberry  bogs  either  by 
damming  or  by  draining. 

From  Falmouth  the  State  Road,  marked  by  blue  bands  on 
poles,  leads  through  the  straggling  hamlet  of  TEATICKET  and 
the  unimportant  village  of  EAST  FALMOUTH  (20.5).  Three 
miles  south  is  the  small  summer  colony  of  Menauhant,  lying 
on  the  ocean  front.  The  route  passes  through  WA QUOIT 
(23.0),  an  oldfashioned  village  at  the  head  of  Waquoit  Bay. 
Much  of  this  road  is  "sand  and  oil"  construction  built  with 
Socony  asphalt  binder. 

At  the  crossroads  (26.0)  the  State  Road  forks  left  with  blue 
markers;  straight  through  is  a  slightly  shorter  route  on  sandy 
road  to  Osterville  (p  569). 

28.0    MASHPEE.     Pop  (twp)  270   (1910),  263   (1915).     Barnstable 

Co.     Inc.  1870. 

This  is  a  quiet  village  in  a  country  of  ponds  and  cranberry 
bogs.  It  lies  at  the  edge  of  the  beautiful  Mashpee  Lake,  the 
largest  on  the  Cape.  Daniel  Webster,  Grover  Cleveland,  the 
late  Governor  Russell,  Joe  Jefferson,  and  other  anglers  and  fish- 
ermen of  renown  have  all  regarded  Mashpee  as  a  choice  resort. 
In  the  old  hotel  Attaquin,  built  by  Webster's  old  Indian  guide, 
all  of  these  enthusiasts  and  many  another  have  slept. 


568  MASHPEE— HYANNIS 

The  Indian  village  is  at  the  southern  end  of  the  town.  The 
only  church,  Baptist,  is  largely  supported  by  an  ancient  fund, 
the  expenditure  of  which  is  entrusted  to  the  authorities  of 
Harvard  University.  There  is  an  Indian  graveyard  nearby. 

At  the  time  of  the  Pilgrims  the  Mashpee  tribe  covered  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  Cape,  with  their  principal  villages  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
present  Mashpee.  Richard  Bourne,  the  famous  missionary,  came 
here  in  1658  and  spent  his  life  in  converting  the  natives.  Seeing  that 
they  were  being  despoiled  of  their  lands  by  the  white  settlers  he  pro- 
cured of  them  a  deed  for  about  twenty-two  square  miles  of  land  sur- 
rounding their  villages,  to  be  entailed  after  his  death  for  the  benefit 
of  the  Indians  and  their  children.  This  was  the  origin  of  the  Mashpee 
reservation.  In  1711  the  Rev.  Daniel  Williams  of  London  bequeathed 
a  considerable  sum  for  the  work  of  converting  the  Indians  there, 
appointing  Harvard  College  as  trustee.  The  proceeds  of  this  fund, 
now  about  $500,  form  the  chief  support  of  the  resident  minister.  In 
1763  the  first  aggression  of  the  whites  began  when  the  General  Court 
created  a  district  out  of  Mashpee,  putting  the  government  into  the 
hands  of  five  overseers,  two  of  whom  were  to  be  Englishmen,  to  be 
elected  by  the  Indian  proprietors.  The  English  overseers  were  out 
of  sympathy  with  the  Indians  and  a  good  deal  of  friction  resulted, 
but  the  Mashpees  remained  loyal  and  nearly  every  man  fought  and 
was  killed  in  the  Revolution.  The  survivors  were  expert  whalers  and 
aided  largely  in  manning  the  fleets  of  New  Bedford  and  Barnstable. 
So  many  of  the  men  had  died,  however,  that  the  tribe  was  joined  by 
negroes  and  more  recently  by  Cape  Portuguese,  so  that  at  the  present 
time  there  is  little  of  the  Indian  blood  left.  In  1788  real  oppression 
began  when  the  Legislature  put  the  Indians  in  charge  of  a  Board  of 
Guardians  with  no  choice  in  the  matter  of  elections.  In  1833,  owing 
to  the  abuses  of  the  Guardians,  the  Indians  drew  up  a  set  of  "Reso- 
lutions," a  sort  of  Declaration  of  Independence.  The  matter  was 
thus  forcibly  brought  to  the  attention  of  Governor  Lincoln  and  the 
result  was  the  erection  of  the  reservation  to  a  district  and  a  reappor- 
tionment  of  the  lands  by  which  the  proprietors  each  received  sixty 
acres.  In  1870  Mashpee  was  incorporated  as  a  town. 

The  route  at  the  hamlet  of  Santuit  (31.5)  turns  left. 

COTUIT,  a  summer  colony,  formerly  Cotuit  Port,  lies  two 
miles  south.  The  name  Cotuit  probably  appears  in  print  more 
frequently  than  any  other  town  on  the  Cape,  and  justly. 
For  New  England  at  least  the  name  is  synonymous  with  the 
best  oysters  and  is  never  missing  during  the  'R'  months  from 
the  hotel  menus. 

Cotuit  was  one  of  the  earliest  towns  on  the  Cape  to  become 
a  place  of  summer  residence,  and  it  perhaps  feels  a  little  superior 
to  those  of  later  growth;  certainly  here  one  feels  a  more  con- 
servative, perhaps  a  more  aristocratic  atmosphere  than  at 
some  other  Cape  towns.  Its  harbor  is  perhaps  the  finest  on 
the  Cape  and  a  famous  resort  of  yachtsmen.  Among  the 
summer  residents  are  a  considerable  number  of  the  Harvard 
faculty, — President  Lowell  and  Professors  Taussig  and  Put- 
nam. There  are  delightful  wood  drives  in  the  region  about. 

Following  the  State  Road  and  the  blue  markers  through 


R.  31  §  2.     BUZZARDS  BAY  TO  CHATHAM  AND  ORLEANS     569 

Marstons  Mills  (34.8),  the  route  enters  OSTERVILLE  (37.2). 
This  village  in  the  midst  of  pine  woods  has  a  pleasingly  rural 
atmosphere.  The  Public  Library  was  built  largely  through 
the  generosity  of  William  Lloyd  Garrison,  who  used  to  summer 
here.  Osterville  is  rather  proud  of  its  public  scales,  over  which 
a  rustic  bower  has  been  built.  East  Bay  is  a  beautiful  back- 
water surrounded  by  residences,  and  the  larger  West  Bay 
receives  the  waters  of  Marstons  River.  Wianno  is  on  a  neck 
between  the  two  bays.  The  Sepuit  Golf  Club  has  one 
of  the  finest  courses  on  the  Cape.  Camp  Opechee,  on  Lake 
Waquaquet,  is  a  favorite  place  for  fish  dinners. 

The  fashionable  and  wealthy  summer  colony  of  Wianno  oc- 
cupies a  series  of  bluffs  crowned  with  oak  and  pine,  with  a 
number  of  fresh-water  ponds  near  the  shore.  About  thirty 
years  ago  this  tract  was  sold  for  about  $150x2  and  since  then  has 
been  parceled  out  in  reiterated  bargainings  until  today  its  value 
represents  a  prodigious  amount. 

There  are  several  hotels  and  a  large  cottage  colony  in  which 
Boston  and  Southern  people  form  a  large  element.  Some  of 
the  most  pretentious  summer  residences  on  the  Cape  are  in 
the  vicinity,  including  the  Gaff  and  the  Lindsey  estates. 

CENTERVILLE  and  CRAIG VILLE  (40.0),  two  'post-office  vil- 
lages,' form  practically  one  summer  colony.  The  bathing 
beach  here  is  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the  country. 

44.0  HYANNIS.  Alt  31  ft.  Pop  1500  (loc.est.).  (Part  of  Barnstable 
twp.)  Barnstable  Co.  Port  of  Entry. 

A  wide-awake  little  town,  it  is  the  distributing  center  of  the 
neighboring  summer  colonies.  It  may  be  called  the  educa- 
tional center  of  the  Cape,  as  it  has  a  State  Normal  and  Model 
School  and  a  fine  High  School.  Together  with  Hyannisport 
it  forms  the  largest  community  except  Provincetown. 

Fifty  years  ago  the  late  Abel  D.  Makepeace  was  the  village  harness- 
maker.  He  took  to  farming  "on  the  side,"  and  cranberry-growing  in 
particular.  He  held  the  record  for  reclaiming  more  acreage  of  com- 
paratively worthless  lands  for  a  special  line  of  fruit-growing  than  any 
other  person  in  the  United  States,  and  won  a  local  reputation,  well- 
earned,  as  the  '  Cranberry  King  of  the  United  States.'  He  controlled 
a  large  portion  of  the  industry  not  only  on  Cape  Cod  but  in  other  parts. 

HYANNISPORT,  two  miles  south,  with  its  fine  harbor  and  bath- 
ing beaches  is  the  center  of  the  largest  summer  colony  in  this 
region.  There  are  a  number  of  hotels  in  the  vicinity  and  a  good 
golf  course.  From  Shoot  Flying  Hill,  which  lies  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Barnstable,  one  can  see  the  whole  Cape  from  Plymouth 
to  Race  Point,  with  Marthas  Vineyard  and  Nantucket. 
Great  Island,  opposite  Hyannis,  is  another  popular  resort: 

The  route  follows  the  blue  markers  through  West  Yarmouth 
(46.0)  to  South  Yarmouth  (49.0). 


570  HYANNIS— ORLEANS 

In  South  Yarmouth  at  the  mouth  of  Bass  River  are  located 
the  "Workshop"  and  general  offices  of  the  National  High- 
ways Association,  an  organization  fostering  a  great  public 
movement  for  the  construction  and  maintenance  of  national, 
interstate,  or  trunk  highways  at  federal  expense  and  "Good 
Roads  Everywhere."  This  wide-awake  organization  has  done 
much  to  bring  the  attention  of  the  public  to  the  need  for  such 
highways.  It  has  a  membership  of  nearly  100,000.  Charles 
Henry  Davis  and  Coleman  Du  Pont  were  the  founders. 

Friends'  meeting  house,  now  standing  in  Friends'  Village, 
was  erected  in  1809,  "for  the  benefit  and  in  behalf  of  the 
people  called  Quakers,  known  by  the  name  of  Sandwich 
monthly  meeting  ...  in  consideration  of  good  will  towards  the 
people  called  Quakers." 

Between  Main  St.  and  Bass  River  are  several  old  houses. 
The  Silas  Kelly  house  here  is  over  one  hundred  years  old.  The 
ferry  across  Bass  River  was  run  by  'Uncle'  Elihu  Kelly,  who 
lived  on  the  opposite  bank.  Uncle  Eli  was  a  'character'  and 
had  a  place  upon  the  'rising  seat'  in  the  Friends'  meeting. 

In  1837,  365,000  bushels  of  common  salt  were  manufactured 
in  the  town  of  Yarmouth,  which,  with  Epsom  salts,  was  valued 
at  $110,000.  The  increased  cost  of  lumber  for  repairs  and  the 
reduced  value  of  salt  made  the  business  unprofitable  and  it  is 
now  only  a  matter  of  history. 

The  route  continues  past  WEST  DENNIS,  on  the  opposite 
shore  of  Bass  River.  Just  beyond,  a  crossroad  enters  from 
Route  30  (p  549).  DENNISPORT,  an  old  fishing  village  which 
caters  to  the  summer  tourist,  lies  off  to  the  right. 

In  West  Harwich  (52.5),  on  Main  St.,  a  rustic  and  fantastic 
construction,  a  sort  of  triumphal  archway  of  cedar,  attracts 
attention.  This  is  the  entrance  to  'The  Frasier  Castle,'  also 
known  as  'The  Hermit's.'  Mr.  Simon  Frasier,  the  owner, 
is  a  local  character  of  some  reputation.  Within  the  grounds 
he  has  boats  and  water  tanks  and  more  rustic  arches  and  simi- 
lar monstrosities.  Wychmere  Harbor,  formerly  called  Salt- 
water Pond,  has  been  dredged  to  make  a  good  boat  shelter. 

Note.  From  HARWICHPORT  (55.0)  a  road  leads  northward 
through  Harwich  joining  Route  30  at  Brewster  (p  549). 

Harwich  is  a  popular  summer  resort,  and  a  favorite  dwelling 
place  of  retired  sea-captains,  which  has  gone  through  the  regu- 
lar stages  of  whaling,  codding,  mackerel  fishing,  and  salt- 
making,  and  cultivates  in  turn  the  summer  boarder. 

From  Harwich  to  Chatham  a  road  leads  past  myriads  of 
neat  little  white  houses  by  the  roadside,  white  churches,  cran- 
berry bogs,  and  woody  roads,  beside  which  the  wellknown 
Cape  beach-plums  abound  in  September. 


R.  31  §  2.      BUZZARDS  BAY  TO  CHATHAM  AND  ORLEANS      571 

SOUTH  HARWICH  (57.0),  like  its  neighbors,  is  a  fishing  village 
with  a  summer  colony.  Quaint  old  houses  abound  in  this 
vicinity,  set  back  from  the  shaded  roads. 

62.0  CHATHAM.  Alt  59  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1564  (1910),  1667  (1915). 
Barnstable  Co.  Inc.  1712.  Indian  name  Naushon. 

The  group  of  Chathams  occupy  the  ragged  elbow  of  Cape 
Cod,  facing  the  Atlantic.  The  beautiful  old  village  of  Chatham 
was  named  for  William  Pitt,  Earl  of  Chatham.  Once  one  of 
the  flourishing  ports  of  the  Cape  and  its  harbor  a  place  of 
refuge,  today  it  is  the  fastest  growing  town  on  the  Cape,  and 
a  very  typical  one.  A  large  fleet  of  fishing  boats  and  coasters 
make  it  their  headquarters.  The  surf  on  the  outer  shore  roll- 
ing in  unimpeded  from  the  ocean  is  perhaps  the  finest  on  the 
Cape.  An  old  historian  once  said  of  Chatham,  "There  is  a 
doubtful  appearance  of  a  soil  beginning  to  be  formed,"  but 
notwithstanding  this  "doubtful  appearance"  there  are  flour- 
ishing market  gardens  in  the  vicinity. 

Chatham  has  a  plant  of  the  Marconi  Wireless  system,  the 
largest  receiving  station  in  the  world,  consisting  of  a  hotel  and 
cottages,  an  administration  building,  power  plant,  etc.  This 
plant  was  built  to  communicate  with  Norway. 

Stretching  into  the  Atlantic  south  of  Chatham  is  a  sandspit 
eight  miles  long,  Monomoy  Point,  which  can  be  seen  best 
from  Stage  Harbor  over  beyond  the  Twin  Lights.  A  similar 
bar  protects  Chatham  Harbor.  During  the  northeast  storms 
it  is  often  shifted  and  even  broken  in  two  with  serious  damage 
to  the  land  inside.  As  early  as  1605  Monomoy  had  commenced 
to  earn  its  name  as  "the  graveyard  of  ships,"  for  De  Monts, 
the  French  explorer,  all  but  came  to  grief  there. 

Thoreau  writes  of  the  outer  shore  of  the  Cape  which  stretches  from 
Chatham  to  Provincetown:  "I  do  not  know  where  there  is  another 
beach  in  the  Atlantic  States,  attached  to  the  mainland,  so  long,  and 
at  the  same  time  so  straight,  and  completely  uninterrupted  by  creeks 
or  coves  or  fresh  water  rivers  or  marshes.  The  time  must  come  when 
this  coast  will  be  a  place  of  resort  for  those  New  Englanders  who  really 
wish  to  visit  the  seaside.  What  are  springs  and  waterfalls?  Here  is 
the  spring  of  springs,  the  waterfall  of  waterfalls.  A  storm  in  the  fall 
or  winter  is  the  time  to  visit  it;  a  lighthouse  or  a  fisherman's  hut,  the 
true  hotel.  A  man  may  stand  here  and  put  America  behind  him." 

So  great  has  been  the  number  of  wrecks  on  these  treacherous  and 
ever  shifting  sands  that  a  chart  of  them  by  the  author  of  "Eldridge's 
Charts"  leaves  hardly  room  for  a  ship's  grave  from  Monomoy  to 
Highland  Light. 

From  Chatham  the  State  Road,  blue  markers,  was  built  four 
or  five  years  ago  of  Socony  asphalt  binder  and  the  local  sand, 
applied  in  alternate  layers.  Under  the  influence  of  sun  and 
traffic  it  has  formed  a  smooth  roadway  which  leads  northwest 
past  Pleasant  Bay  and  South  Orleans,  joining  Route  30,  at 
70.0  ORLEANS  (R.  30,  p  550). 


R.  32.     BOSTON  to  NEWPORT.  70.0  m. 

Via  TAUNTON  and  FALL  RIVER. 

This  route  leaves  Boston  by  the  Fenway  and  the  connecting 
system  of  splendid  parkways,  skirts  the  Blue  Hills,  and  from 
Canton  to  Taunton  traverses  a  rather  sparsely  inhabited  region 
with  a  sandy  soil  covered  by  sprout  growth.  Thence  the 
route  follows  the  Taunton  river,  which  gradually  broadens 
into  an  estuary,  to  Fall  River,  a  mill  town.  At  Tiverton  it 
leaves  the  mainland,  crossing  the  new  steel  bridge  to  the 
Island  of  Aquidneck,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  which 
Newport  stands.  The  route  is  a  State  Road  nearly  all  the  way. 

From  Copley  Square,  Boston,  via  Dartmouth  St.  and  Com- 
monwealth Ave.,  at  Charlesgate  turn  left  at  the  Collins  Monu- 
ment over  R.R.  into  the  Fenway  (p  474).  Continuing  into  the 
Riverway  and  crossing  Huntington  Ave.  (3.0),  the  route  fol- 
lows Jamaicaway  past  Leverett  Pond  and  Jamaica  Pond  (4.0). 
The  Arnold  Arboretum  and  Bussey  Institute  (4.5)  on  the  right, 
as  we  ascend  the  Arborway,  are  departments  of  Harvard  Uni- 
versity. At  Forest  Hills  (5.5)  pass  under  the  R.R.  and  Elevated 
viaducts  and  continue  on  the  parkway  a  quarter  mile,  then  turn 
sharp  right  and  left  into  Morton  St.,  between  Franklin  Park  on 
the  left  and  Forest  Hills  Cemetery  on  the  right.  Turning  right 
on  Blue  Hill  Ave.  (7.0),  with  the  trolley,  the  route  enters 

9.0     MATTAPAN.     Alt  30  ft.     Indian  name,  "sitting  down  place." 

This  is  a  suburb  of  Boston,  and  extending  across  the  Neponset 
river,  which  is  the  city  boundary,  has  become  one  of  the  centers 
of  population  of  Milton's  extensive  territory.  Continuing 
straight  through  the  Square,  cross  the  Neponset  river  by  a 
stone  bridge.  Just  beyond,  at  the  three  forks,  three  variant 
routes  offer  themselves,  all  coming  together  at  the  base  of 
Great  Blue  Hill,  three  and  a  half  miles  beyond. 

The  shortest  route  is  with  the  trolley  along  Blue  Hill  Ave. 
To  the  left,  Blue  Hill  Parkway,  a  broad  Metropolitan  Park 
boulevard  with  a  double  roadway  and  central  rows  of  young 
elms,  leads  to  Canton  Ave.,  where  the  route  turns  right.  This 
is  the  most  level  route.  The  most  delightful  route  is  via 
Brush  Hill  Road,  which  turns  off  to  the  right.  The  little 
common  to  the  right  between  the  road  and  river  is  the  gift 
of  Amor  Hollingsworth,  the  paper  manufacturer,  whose  estate 
lies  on  the  same  side  on  the  west  slope  of  Brush  Hill.  Further 
on,  opposite,  is  the  Queen  Anne  mansion  of  F.  L.  Milliken. 

At  the  summit  of  the  hill  is  the  most  glorious  prospect 
within  fifty  miles  of  Boston.  The  whole  of  the  wooded  Blue 
Hill  range  rises  steadily  in  gently  swelling  curves  from  Boston 
Harbor,  far  on  the  left,  to  the  symmetrical  dome  of  the  Great 

(572) 


R.  32.     BOSTON   TO   NEWPORT  573 

Blue  Hill  itself.  Although  not  more  than  seven  miles  long, 
and  attaining  a  height  of  only  six  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet, 
the  isolated  dignity  of  this  range  is  impressive.  On  the  fur- 
ther hills  to  the  east  rise  the  derricks  of  the  Quincy  granite 
quarries;  nearer,  in  the  valley,  are  the  spires  of  Milton 
churches,  and  close  to  the  foot  of  the  Great  Blue  Hill  is  the 
graceful  pagoda  on  the  estate  of  the  late  A.  Lawrence  Rotch. 
Hancock  Hill,  next  east  of  the  Great  Blue  Hill,  is  so  named 
because  Governor  Hancock  in  1780  had  firewood  cut  here  for 
the  Boston  poor. 

The  Vose  farm,  a  little  way  down  the  hill  on  the  left,  with 
greenhouses  and  gardens,  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  New  England 
farms,  although  the  house  is  not  the  original  homestead.  Or- 
namental garden  pottery  is  made  here,  several  examples  of 
which  are  displayed  beneath  the  elms  in  the  driveway.  Half 
a  mile  further  is  an  even  finer  view  of  Great  Blue  Hill. 

Hyde  Park,  Boston's  most  recent  annexation,  lies  to  the 
west.  It  is  an  industrial  community  with  paper  mills,  the 
Sturtevant  Blower  Works,  and  the  extensive  repair  shops  of 
the  N.  Y.,  N.  H.  &  H.  R.R.  Through  the  broad  stretch  of 
marshes  to  the  south  the  meanderings  of  the  Neponset  river 
are  marked  by  the  embankments  formed  in  the  recent  dredg- 
ing of  the  river  bed  that  the  flow  of  the  stream  might  be  quick- 
ened and  the  marshes  drained.  For  many  years  the  paper 
mills  and  tanneries  in  the  towns  lying  beyond  had  befouled 
the  river  with  their  waste. 

In  the  crossroads  at  the  foot  of  the  second  descent  is  a  little 
drinking  fountain  whose  water  is  supplied,  though  intermit- 
tently, by  a  spring  immediately  underneath  it.  Paul's  Bridge 
on  the  right  leads  over  the  Neponset  to  Readville. 

The  route  leads  straight  on  and  rejoins  the  shorter  route  on 
Canton  Ave.,  at  the  entrance  to  the  Blue  Hill  Reservation 
(p  477))  where  there  is  a  refreshment  bungalow  and  an  enclosure 
for  parking  automobiles.  The  path  to  the  summit,  one  mile, 
affords  an  easy  climb  with  a  wide  prospect  at  the  top. 

Just  beyond  the  Blue  Hill,  on  the  left,  is  Blue  Hill  St.,  on 
Route  21  (p  477),  a  quiet  New  England  lane  through  the  hills 
to  Randolph  Ave.  and  Route  31  (p  557),  to  Cape  Cod. 

The  village  of  PONKAPOG  (15.0)  begins  at  the  hilltop  a  mile 
beyond.  Green  Lodge  St.,  on  Route  21  (p  477),  leads  to  the 
right  down  across  the  Neponset  meadows  to  Dedham. 

When  the  Neponset  Indians  gave  up  their  lands  near  the  mouth  of 
the  river  now  bearing  their  name  they  removed  to  the  territory  south 
of  the  Blue  Hills,  which  they  called  Punkapoag.  "The  significance  of 
the  name,"  writes  Gpokin,  in  his  "Historical  Collections,"  "is  taken 
from  a  spring  that  ariseth  out  of  red  earth."  Other  meanings  ascribed 
to  it  are  "sweet  water"  and  "between  ponds" — "Interlaken."  The 
Apostle  Eliot  had  already  established  his  "praying  town"  at  Natick 


574  MATTAPAN— STOUGHTON 

and  in  1657  he  induced  Dorchester  to  grant  this  plantation  to  the  Indi- 
ans as  the  second  of  the  praying  towns.  Many  of  Eliot's  labors  are 
associated  with  this  spot  and  it  was  here  that  he  performed  the  great 
task  of  translating  the  Bible  into  the  Indian  language.  The  Indians 
were  forbidden  to  sell  their  lands,  but  the  white  settlers,  not  to  be 
denied,  acquired  long-time  leases,  and  commenced  a  meeting  house 
in  1707.  The  Indians  have  gradually  disappeared  (p  488). 

At  the  fork  in  the  road  half  a  mile  beyond  Ponkapog  Hill, 
the  route  keeps  straight  ahead.  The  road  to  the  right.  Route 
2  n  (p  202),  leads  through  Canton  to  Providence. 

The  house  on  the  left  at  this  fork  is  where  Thomas  Bailey 
Aldrich  (1836-1907)  spent  his  summers  during  the  last  years 
of  his  life  and  is  still  occupied  by  his  widow.  Here  he  wrote 
the  essays  "Ponkapog  Papers,"  and  a  book  of  travel  called 
"From  Ponkapog  to  Pesth"  (1883).  Aldrich  characterizes 
Ponkapog  as  follows:  "The  little  Massachusetts  settlement, 
nestled  under  the  wing  of  the  Blue  Hills,  has  no  illusions  con- 
cerning itself,  never  mistakes  the  cackling  of  the  bourg  for  the 
sound  that  echoes  round  the  world." 

Note.  Just  beyond,  the  crossroad  leads  left  to  Randolph 
(P  558)  and  Quincy  (p  520),  past  Ponkapog  Pond.  This 
and  Hoosickwhisick  Pond  are  the  two  for  which  the  Indians 
gave  the  location  its  name. 

For  the  next  fifteen  miles  the  route  runs  through  an  undu- 
lating country  covered  with  sprout  growth. 

19.5  STOUGHTON.  Alt  250  ft.  Pop  (twp)  6316  (1910),  6928 
(1915).  Norfolk  Co.  Settled  1650.  Mfg.  shoes,  rubber 
goods,  woolen  yarns,  and  elastic  webbing. 

This  rather  sleepy  little  town  as  a  neighbor  of  Brockton 
naturally  manufactures  shoes.  The  Musical  Society,  organ- 
ized 130  years  ago,  still  holds  annual  chorals.  A  mile  to  the 
east  the  Pinnacle  (30x3  ft)  rises  to  an  abrupt  crest. 

Originally  a  part  of  Dorchester,  the  township  has  in  turn  become 
the  parent  of  Canton,  Sharon,  and  Foxboro.  Its  antiquity  was  long 
marked  by  the  observance  of  old  English  customs.  It  is  said  that  on 
"gauge  days"  the  village  boys  were  "bumped,"  or  forcibly  introduced 
to  stones,  trees,  and  other  boundary  marks,  after  the  fashion  of  "beat- 
ing the  bounds"  in  many  English  counties. 

Two  miles  beyond  Stoughton  the  route  enters  the  township 
of  Easton,  in  which  are  the  estates  of  the  Ames  family. 

NORTH  EASTON,  the  industrial  center  for  generations,  has 
been  dominated  by  the  Ames  family,  who  have  given  many 
of  its  public  buildings,  of  which  three  are  by  Richardson.  A 
large  element  of  the  population  is  Swedish,  supplying  skilled 
labor  for  the  shovel  works. 

North  Easton  is  reached  by  turning  west  on  Elm  St.  The 
Gate  Lodge,  designed  by  H.  H.  Richardson,  stands  at  the 
entrances  to  the  large  estates  of  Miss  Mary  S.  Ames  and  her 


R.  32.     BOSTON   TO   NEWPORT  575 

brother  John  S.  Ames.  Further  on  at  the  left  there  is  that 
of  the  late  Governor  Ames,  on  the  right  that  of  his  son  William 
H.  Ames.  On  the  left  is  the  R.R.  station,  also  designed  by 
Richardson,  the  gift  of  the  late  Frederick  L.  Ames. 

On  Main  St.  is  the  Unitarian  Church,  a  Gothic  edifice, 
given  by  Oliver  Ames  (d.  1877);  its  architect  was  John  A. 
Mitchell,  editor  of  "Life."  As  it  contains  two  of  La  Farge's 
finest  windows  and  a  carved  pulpit  and  screen  designed  by 
Vaughn,  the  building  well  repays  a  visit.  To  the  south  are 
the  extensive  Ames  shovel  works,  founded  some  hundred  years 
ago  by  Oliver  Ames  the  First.  The  annual  output  averages 
more  than  1,200,000  shovels.  Opposite  among  the  trees  are 
the  homes  of  Hobart  Ames,  president  of  the  Ames  Company, 
and  his  brother,  Winthrop,  the  wellknown  theatrical  owner 
and  manager,  prominent  in  the  "Little  Theatre"  movement. 
Further  on  are  the  Library  and  the  Memorial  Hall,  two  more 
of  Richardson's  buildings,  gifts  of  the  Ames  family.  Up  the 
hill  just  beyond  is  a  rockery  or  cairn  by  Frederick  Law  Olm- 
sted  which  partly  hides  the  school  house  and  the  gymnasium, 
also  Ames  donations.  Continuing  on  Main  St.,  which  curves 
to  the  left,  we  pass  the  Catholic  Church  and  its  rectory  and 
Stone's  Pond,  across  which  is  Langwater,  the  large  estate  of 
John  S.  Ames.  A  few  rods  further  on  is  Washington  St., 
which  leads  to  Taunton.  Turning  right,  past  the  gardens  of 
the  Oliver  Ames  estate,  the  house  and  grounds  of  F.  Lothrop 
Ames  lie  to  the  east. 

John  Ames,  a  blacksmith  of  Bridgewater  (d.  1803),  designed  the 
first  of  the  pointed  shovels  about  1776  and  made  them  by  hand.  His 
eldest  son,  David,  founded  the  Springfield  Armory;  the  youngest, 
Oliver,  bought  some  mill  property  in  North  Easton  and  removed  here 
in  1803.  He  is  the  real  founder  of  the  great  shovel  industry.  His 
homestead  is  still  preserved.  In  1844  he  retired  leaving  the  business 
to  his  two  sons,  Oakes  (1804-73)  and  Oliver,  who  incorporated  the 
firm  as  Oliver  Ames  &  Sons.  The  former  had  time  to  take  an  active 
part  in  building  the  Union  Pacific,  and  his  son,  Oliver,  became  Gover- 
nor of  Massachusetts,  but  the  family  industry  was  ever  their  foremost 
vocation.  Ames  shovels  made  good  and  were  popular  with  the  'Forty- 
niners,'  in  the  Australian  gold  mines,  and  on  the  Rand.  For  although 
a  favorite  motto  of  the  company  has  been,  "Iron  is  cheaper  than 
muscle,"  these  implements,  with  their  pointed  shape  and  lighter  weight, 
marked  a  distinct  advance  toward  the  modern  conservation  of  the 
workingman's  energy. 

Today  the  descendants  of  Oliver  Ames  control  the  Ames  Shovel  & 
Plow  Company,  which  with  subsidiary  companies  in  other  towns  pro- 
duces a  large  proportion  of  all  the  shovels  used  in  the  world. 

SOUTH  EASTON  (25.5)  is  one  of  the  less  important  villages 
in  Easton  township.  The  automobile  factory  of  Alfred  B. 
Morse  is  the  principal  industrial  plant.  Entering  Raynham 
township  the  road  descends  to  the  sixty-foot  level  and  crosses 
Great  Cedar  Swamp,  the  principal  source  of  Mill  River. 


576  NORTH  RAYNHAM— TAUNTON 

31.5  NORTH  RAYNHAM.  Alt  75  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1725  (1910),  1810 
(1915).  Bristol  Co.  Settled  1639. 

This  is  a  little  offshoot  from  the  village  of  Raynham  (p  483), 
a  drowsy,  out-of-the-way  spot  where  once  the  best  anchors  in 
the  world  were  made.  The  bog  iron  ore  nowadays  is  con- 
sidered too  soft  for  practical  purposes.  From  this  enterprise, 
however,  came  the  establishment  of  the  Leonard  Iron  Works 
at  Taunton.  Shoe  manufacturing  was  also  carried  on  for  a 
time,  but  that,  too,  has  been  abandoned. 

The  village  church  was  built  in  1832  by  one  of  the  towns- 
people as  an  investment.  The  income  from  renting  the  church 
pews  in  that  day  offered  a  reasonable  profit,  but  only  a  Yankee 
could  have  hit  upon  this  particular  form  of  speculation. 

The  route  crosses  R.R.  at  Raynham  Station  and  passes 
through  the  hamlet  of  Prattville.  Prospect  Hill  rises  to  the 
west.  Through  the  suburb  of  Whittenton  the  route  crosses 
Routes  16  (p  432)  and  23  (p  483)  on  Broadway  in 

35.5  TAUNTON.  Alt  70  ft.  Pop  34,259  (1910),  36,161  (1915);  one 
third  foreign-born.  County-seat  of  Bristol  Co.  Settled 
1637.  Indian  name  Tecticut.  Port  of  Entry.  Mfg.  stoves, 
britannia,  silver,  and  plated  ware,  jewelry,  cotton  goods, 
bricks,  machinery,  and  shoe  eyelets.  Value  of  Products 
(1913),  $16,282,000;  Payroll,  $4,105,000. 

Taunton  is  a  busy  manufacturing  city  at  the  head  of  ocean 
navigation  on  the  Taunton  river,  seventeen  miles  from  its 
mouth.  At  high  water,  vessels  of  eleven  feet  draft  may  reach 
the  Weir,  the  port  of  the  city.  Its  coasting  trade  is  largely  in 
coal  and  coarser  commodities.  Its  industrial  establishments, 
attracted  by  the  waterpower  and  ocean  transportation,  include 
twelve  large  cotton  mills,  seven  foundries,  four  large  britannia 
and  silverware  factories,  brick  and  tile  works,  machine  works, 
nail  works,  and  shoe  eyelet  factories. 

The  Green  is  a  rectangular  area  fringed  with  lofty  elms  about 
which  is  the  business  and  civic  center  of  the  city.  On  it  a 
small  block  of  stone  bears  the  words  "License  and  Union," 
commemorating  the  fact  that  in  1774  after  the  passage  of  the 
Boston  Port  Bill  the  people  of  Taunton  showed  their  spirit  by 
raising  on  the  Green  a  red  flag  on  which  were  inscribed  the 
words  "Liberty  and  Union."  Another  tablet  on  the  Green 
commemorates  events  in  Shays'  Rebellion  when  License  and 
Disunion  resulted  from  the  misery  and  heavy  taxation  of  the 
time.  In  October,  1786,  the  malcontents  assembled  here  and 
threatened  to  burn  the  Court  House,  but  Major-general  Cobb, 
Washington's  former  aide-de-camp,  daunted  the  insurgents  by 
his  declaration:  "I  will  sit  as  a  judge  or  die  as  a  general.  I 
warn  you  to  disperse." 

Opposite  the  Green  to  the  left  where  the  Taunton  National 


R.  32.     BOSTON   TO   NEWPORT  577 

Bank  now  stands  was  the  house  of  Robert  Treat  Paine,  a 
native  of  Taunton,  born  in  1773,  whose  father  was  a  signer  of 
the  Declaration.  Christened  "Thomas,"  he  subsequently 
changed  his  name  to  Robert,  "because,"  as  he  observed,  in 
allusion  to  the  author  of  "The  Age  of  Reason,"  "he  had  no 
Christian  name."  Taunton  was  the  home  of  Isaac  Babbitt 
(1799-1862),  whose  name  is  more  frequently  repeated  than 
that  of  any  other  native  of  Taunton,  for  he  was  the  inventor 
of  Babbitt  metal. 

The  Taunton  Inn,  in  a  modified  mission  style  of  architecture, 
looks  out  comfortably  upon  one  end  of  the  Green.  The 
Morton  Hospital  occupies  the  handsome  residence  of  Governor 
Marcus  Morton.  The  Old  Colony  Historical  Society  boasts 
a  fine  possession  of  books,  portraits,  and  antiquities.  Border- 
ing on  the  Mill  river  are  the  extensive  grounds  of  the  Taunton 
State  Hospital,  for  the  insane.  Bristol  Academy  (1792)  and, 
to  the  north,  Wheaton  College  (1834)  are  two  of  the  oldest 
educational  institutions  in  the  country. 

Taunton  has  the  distinction  of  having  been  founded  by  a  woman. 
The  diary  of  Governor  John  Winthrop,  1637,  contains  this  record: 
"This  year  a  plantation  was  begun  at  Tecticutt  by  a  gentlewoman, 
an  ancient  maid,  one  Mistress  Poole.  She  endured  much  hardships 
and  lost  much  cattle."  It  is  said  she  bought  the  land  of  the  Indians 
for  a  pot  of  beans  and  a  jack-knife.  The  epitaph  on  her  memorial 
stone  in  the  local  cemetery  reads:  "Here  rest  the  remains  of  Mistress 
Elizabeth  Pool,  a  native  of  Old  England,  of  good  Family,  Friends  & 
prospects,  all  of  which  she  left  in  the  prime  of  her  life  to  enjoy  the 
Religion  of  her  Conscience  in  this  distant  wilderness.  A  great  pro- 
prietor of  the  township  of  Taunton,  a  chief  promoter  of  its  settlement 
and  its  incorporation,  A.D.  1639,  about  which  time  she  settled  near 
this  spot,  and  having  employed  the  opportunitys  of  her  virgin  state 
in  Piety,  Liberality  of  manners,  died  May  2ist,  A.D.  1654,  aged  65; 
to  whose  memory  this  monument  is  gratefully  erected  by  her  next  of 
kin,  John  Borland,  Esq.  A.D.  1771." 

The  territory  was  conveyed  by  Massasoit  in  1638  and  shortly  after 
surveyed  by  Captain  Miles  Standish.  It  was  named  for  the  county 
town  in  Somerset,  England,  the  home  of  many  of  the  settlers.  Thomas 
Lechford  of  Clements  Inn  in  his  pamphlet,  "Plaine  Dealing,  or  Newes 
from  New  England,"  published  in  London  in  1642,  says:  "Cohannet, 
alias  Taunton,  is  in  Plymouth  patent.  There  is  a  church  gathered  of 
late,  and  some  ten  or  twenty  of  the  church,  the  rest  excluded:  Master 
Hooke,  pastor;  .  .  .  One  Master  Doughty,  a  minister,  opposed  the 
gathering  of  the  church  there,  alleging  that,  according  to  the  covenant 
of  Abraham,  all  men's  children  that  were  of  baptized  parents,  and  so 
Abraham's  children,  ought  to  be  baptized;  and  spoke  so  in  publique, 
or  to  that  effect;  which  was  held  a  disturbance,  and  the  ministers  spake 
to  the  magistrate  to  order  him.  The  magistrate  commanded  the 
constable,  who  dragged  Master  Doughty  out  of  the  assembly.  He 
was  forced  to  go  away  from  thence  with  his  wife  and  children." 

In  June,  1676,  General  Josias  Winslow  wrote  in  a  letter  to  Governor 
Hinckley,  "The  Indians  have  killed  four  stout  men  at  Taunton,  and 
carried  away  two  lusty  youths  .  .  .  the  four  men  left  thirty-two  children 
fatherless  in  a  hard  world." 

The  waterpower  of   Mill  River,   which  flows   through  the   heart  of 


578  TAUNTON— SOMERSET 

the  present  city,  was  utilized  as  early  as  1640.  In  1656  iron  works 
were  established  in  Raynham,  then  a  part  of  Taunton,  and  here  all 
through  the  Colonial  period  were  manufactured  bar  iron,  nails,  shovels, 
anchors,  etc.  This  same  plant  continued  in  active  operation  for  220 
years,  under  the  management  of  the  Leonard  family,  who  founded  it, 
until  about  1777,  when  it  changed  hands,  and  was  finally  abandoned 
a  century  later,  in  1876.  A  most  singular  financial  condition  arose 
on  account  of  the  scarcity  of  specie  before  1690.  No  bank  notes  were 
in  circulation  and  so  little  money  that  the  bar  iron  manufactured  here 
at  Taunton  became  an  accepted  medium  of  exchange  in  daily  com- 
mercial transactions.  Thomas  Coram,  philanthropist  and  founder  of 
the  London  Foundling  Hospital,  was  for  many  years  engaged  in  ship- 
building here.  Timothy  Dwight,  a  century  ago,  wrote  of  Taunton: 
"Were  I  to  judge  from  what  I  saw  and  heard,  I  should  conclude,  that 
the  inhabitants  have  suffered  in  their  morals,  from  the  sessions  of  courts, 
and  the  influence  of  furnaces  and  forges." 

For  250  years  the  herring  and  oyster  fisheries  of  the  Taunton  river 
were  an  important  asset,  but  the  increasing  impurities  from  the  mills 
have  at  last  put  an  end  to  this  means  of  livelihood.  However,  the 
'herring  run'  at  East  Taunton,  when  the  fish  throng  up  in  the  spring, 
is  a  sight  that  draws  people  from  far  and  wide.  Taunton  is  today 
the  place  of  manufacture  of  the  Reed  &  Barton  silverware  and  the 
"Glenwood"  and  the  "Magee"  ranges  and  furnaces. 

The  route  leads  past  Taunton  Green,  across  Mill  River,  and 
via  Weir  St.,  and  Somerset  Ave.,  through  Weir,  the  port  of 
the  city.  From  this  point  it  runs  parallel  with  and  above  the 
Taunton  river  all  the  way  to  Fall  River.  The  village  of  North 
Dighton  lies  to  the  right  as  the  road  crosses  Three  Mile  River 
(38.0).  Crossing  the  Segregansett  river  we  come  into 

42.0  DIGHTON.  Alt  30  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2235  (1910),  2499  (1915). 
Inc.  1712.  Mfg.  paper,  soap,  water  colors,  and  tacks. 

This  village  is  mainly  known  as  the  site  of  the  mysterious 
Dighton  Rock.  Many  houses  in  the  village  are  of  Colonial 
times,  some  built  before  1700.  The  Council  Oak,  which 
stands  on  the  avenue  in  the  grounds  of  the  Dighton  Nursery 
Company,  is  unquestionably  over  400  years  old.  Under  its 
branches  King  Philip  and  his  warriors  held  their  pow-wows 
and  councils  at  the  Pocasset  tribe's  principal  settlement. 

The  village  was  settled  not  long  after  1672  as  a  part  of  Taunton, 
purchased  of  King  Philip  for  192  pounds.  In  1712  it  was  set  apart 
and  named  Dighton  in  honor  of  Frances  Dighton,  the  wife  of  Richard 
Williams,  an  early  settler.  Until  the  Embargo  Act  in  the  War  of 
1812,  shipbuilding  was  the  principal  industry,  and  iron  also  has  been 
forged  from  time  to  time.  During  the  gold  fever  in  the  days  of  '49, 
picks  and  shovels  were  turned  out  in  considerable  quantities,  as  at 
North  Easton,  but  within  the  last  few  years  the  concentration  of  the 
industry  elsewhere  has  caused  the  plant  to  be  dismantled.  Cotton, 
paper,  and  soap  are  still  made  here,  as  well  as  tacks  and  nails,  this  latter 
industry  probably  induced  by  the  example  of  Taunton. 

The  inscrutable  Dighton  Rock  is  at  the  edge  of  tidewater 
on  Assonet  Neck  across  the  river  in  the  township  of  Berkeley, 
which  was  within  Dighton  township  until  1799.  It  is  a  green 
boulder  about  ten  feet  long  with  inscriptions  or  scratches, 


R.  32.     BOSTON   TO   NEWPORT  S7Q 

uncommonly  like  the  work  of  naughty  little  boys  with  nothing 
else  to  do.  Yet  these  same  marks  have  been  the  source  of 
prolonged  and  acrimonious  disputations.  Edward  Everett 
considered,  "that  the  rock  contains  some  rude  delineations 
of  the  figures  of  men  and  animals,  is  apparent  on  the  first  in- 
spection." Further  interpretation  of  the  marks  is  more  open 
to  doubt.  By  some  the  characters  are  regarded  as  Phoenician. 
The  late  Samuel  Harris,  a  very  learned  Orientalist,  thought  he 
found  the  Hebrew  word  "melek,"  "king."  A  Colonel  Val- 
iancy maintained  that  they  were  no  less  than  Scythian,  while 
Messrs.  Rafn  and  Magnusson  were  of  the  opinion  that  they 
were  undoubtedly  Runic.  Despite  these  rather  fanciful  con- 
jectures, common  sense  and  learning  have  agreed  that  they 
are  Indian  beyond  peradventure  of  any  sane  doubt. 

In  1857  Ole  Bull,  the  great  violinist,  commissioned  his  friend  Arnzen 
of  Fall  River  to  purchase  the  Rock  and  surrounding  land  for  fifty  dol- 
lars. Finally  when  Ole  Bull  died  without  forwarding  the  purchase 
money,  Arnzen  conveyed  the  title  to  the  Royal  Society  of  Northern 
Antiquities  of  Copenhagen  as  a  gift  to  the  nation,  and  it  was  not  until 
it  passed  through  the  hands  of  several  more  owners  that  the  deed  at 
last  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Old  Colonial  Historical  Society. 

Just  across  a  little  brook  the  road  climbs  to  the  top  of 
Richmond  Hill  (200  ft),  from  which  there  is  an  extensive  view. 
The  road  now  maintains  a  height  of  seventy  or  eighty  feet  above 
the  river  until  just  opposite  Mechanicsville,  the  northern  sub- 
urb of  Fall  River,  where  it  descends  to  the  bridge  that  leads 
into  the  city.  Crossing  Broad  Cove  we  pass  through 

453  SOMERSET.  Alt  17  ft.  Pop  2798  (1910),  3377  (1915). 
Bristol  Co.  Settled  1668.  Mfg.  pottery  and  stoves. 

This  was  an  early  settlement  of  Quakers,  whose  ancient 
meeting  house  still  stands  in  the  southern  part  of  the  town. 
The  making  of  pottery  was  an  important  industry  in  early 
days  which  has  persisted  to  this  day  in  the  neighboring  hamlet 
of  Pottersville.  Shipbuilding  was  also  a  prominent  industry 
until  the  middle  of  the  last  century.  Of  its  few  old  houses 
the  most  notable  is  the  Bufnngton  homestead  (1689). 

Mt.  Hope  Bay  comes  in  view  and  beyond  the  city  of  Fall 
River,  the  commercial  importance  of  which  is  at  once  apparent. 
The  wharves  and  railway  traffic,  the  rows  of  cotton  mills  rising 
on  the  terraced  face  of  the  bluff,  and  the  residences  of  the 
wealthier  mill  owners  on  the  crest  of  the  ridge  bear  witness  to 
long-continued  development  of  natural  resources.  Route  17 
(p  434),  from  Providence,  joins  the  route  from  the  right. 

The  route  crosses  Taunton  River  by  the  new  bridge,  entering 
the  city  on  Davol  St.  At  gasometer  turn  left  under  R.R.  and 
right  on  Durfee  St.  At  the  Armory,  opposite  the  Textile 
High  School,  turn  left  and  then  right  into  North  Main  St. 


580  FALL   RIVER 

51.5     FALL  RIVER.     Alt  100  ft.     Pop  119,295  (1910),  124,791  (1915); 

one  half  foreign-born,  half  of  which  are  French  Canadians. 

Bristol     Co.     Settled     1676.     Indian     name     Quequechan. 

Mfg.    cotton    goods,    hats,   foundry   products,   and   pianos. 

Value  of  Product  (1913),  $65,221,000;  Payroll,  $16,195,000. 

Steamers  to  New   York  and  Providence. 

Fall  River,  chiefly  known  to  the  outside  world  from  the  "Fall 
River  Line"  of  steamers,  is  the  third  city  in  Massachusetts  in 
population  and  the  largest  cotton  manufacturing  city  in  the 
United  States.  It  has  over  800  manufacturing  plants,  of 
which  in  are  cotton  mills  employing  35,000  hands  and  pro- 
ducing more  than  a  billion  yards  of  cotton  cloth  and  800  tons 
of  absorbent  cotton  daily.  Besides  cotton  goods  10,000  pianos 
are  turned  out  yearly  and  8,500  derby  hats  every  day. 

The  reason  for  the  development  of  this  site  as  a  great  mill 
town  lies  in  the  configuration  of  the  country  back  of  the  city, 
making  possible  a  powerful  mill  stream  in  immediate  proximity 
to  a  deep-water  harbor.  Watuppa  Ponds,  several  miles  in 
length  and  fed  by  perennial  springs,  have  their  outlet  in  the 
single  river,  only  two  miles  in  length,  known  as  the  Fall  River, 
or  Quequechan,  meaning  "the  falling  waters."  The  river 
pours  its  water  through  a  granite  bed  with  a  fall  of  127  feet 
in  a  distance  of  half  a  mile.  The  power  is  utilized  and  dis- 
tributed through  subterranean  channels  in  an  efficient  and 
economical  way  to  the  turbines  of  the  different  mills.  The 
limit  of  mill  development  along  the  stream  has  been  reached 
unless  a  three-million-dollar  conduit  system  is  installed,  1o 
increase  power  and  abate  drainage  nuisances.  Steam,  however, 
has  largely  supplemented  and  superseded  waterpower. 

Fall  River,  then,  is  a  mill  town  with  all  that  that  implies, — 
a  large  foreign  population  with  men,  women,  and  children 
working  in  the  mills.  It  has  the  lowest  percentage,  13.6,  of 
native  born  parentage  and  the  highest  birth  rate,  38.75  to  the 
thousand,  of  any  city  of  over  30,000  population.  Of  the 
35,000  hands  employed  in  the  cotton  mills,  15,522  are  females 
and  their  average  yearly  earnings  are  $446.25.  At  the  present 
time  there  are  forty-five  corporations  with  a  capital  of 
$34,000,000  invested  in  cotton  mills  alone.  Within  recent 
years  the  competition  of  the  South  has  resulted  in  a  larger 
production  of  the  finer  cotton  cloths.  Among  the  principal 
firms  are  the  American  Linen  Company,  the  Chace  Mills,  the 
Durfee  Mills,  the  Merchants  Mfg.  Co.,  Pocassett  Mfg.  Co., 
Sagamore  Mfg.  Co.,  the  Tecumseh  Mills,  Union  Cotton  Mfg. 
Co.,  and  the  American  Print  Works,  which  is  one  o!"  the  largest 
firms  in  the  country  that  print  calicoes.  Jas.  Marshall  &  Bros, 
are  among  the  largest  hat  makers  in  the  United  States,  sup- 
plying hats  for  the  U.S.  Army.  The  New  England  Fur  Com- 
pany uses  daily  35,000  rabbit  pelts.  The  Cote  Piano  Mfg.  Co. 


R.  32.     BOSTON   TO   NEWPORT  581 

is  the  fourth  largest  plant  of  its  kind,  with  a  production  of 
10,000  pianos  a  year. 

Under  these  conditions  naturally  there  are  congested  tene- 
ment districts,  although  there  is  civic  pride  in  Fall  River  and 
effort  at  betterment.  Most  of  the  streets,  however,  are  grimy 
and  unkempt  in  spite  of  the  quarter  of  a  million  dollars  spent 
each  year  in  the  attempt  to  improve  conditions.  The  resi- 
dential district  of  the  wealthy  lies  on  high  ground  along  High- 
land Ave.,  and  on  Rock  St.,  the  street  of  churches. 

The  City  Hall  and  Main  Street  at  that  point  are  built  di- 
rectly over  the  Quequechan  river,  as  are  man}'  of  the  cotton 
mills  above  and  below.  A  tablet  on  the  front  of  the  City  Hall 
commemorates  the  skirmish,  on  this  site,  of  1778  in  which 
the  minute  men  under  Colonel  Joseph  Durfee  repulsed  a  British 
landing  force.  The  two  British  soldiers  killed  were  originally 
buried  near  the  corner  of  the  granite  block  opposite. 

Route  17  (p  434),  from  Providence  to  New  Bedford  and 
Cape  Cod,  leads  from  the  City  Hall  via  Pleasant  St. 

The  County  Court  House  is  on  the  site  of  the  home  of  the 
pioneer  manufacturer,  Colonel  Borden.  The  Roman  Catholic 
Cathedral  of  Ste.  Anne  with  its  adjacent  college  is  a  landmark 
visible  for  miles  around.  The  church  of  Notre  Dame  contains 
frescoes  by  an  Italian  artist. 

The  city  is  built  upon  a  granite  ridge  rising  from  its  deep-water 
harbor  to  a  height  of  two  hundred  feet.  The  region,  coming  as  it 
does  within  a  debatable  portion  of  the  transitional  zone,  is  a  very  inter- 
esting one,  of  varied  physical  features.  From  north  to  south,  directly 
through  the  center  of  the  region,  runs  the  escarpment  formed  on  ac- 
count of  the  contact  between  hard  granitic  rocks  and  the  soft  sedi- 
ments of  the  Rhode  Island  coal  measures.  A  mile  or  more  to  the 
eastward  of  this  contact,  upon  the  upland,  lies  a  chain  of  fresh-water 
lakes,  extending  nearly  the  length  of  the  area.  To  the  eastward  of 
the  lakes  are  tracts  of  forest  growth,  principally  of  oak  and  pine,  and 
extended  areas  of  dense  cedar  swamps.  To  the  westward  of  the  escarp- 
ment lies  the  estuarian  region  of  the  Narragansett  basin,  with  its  miles 
of  varied  shore  lines  and  acres  of  cleared  lands. 

The  first  settler,  Matthew  Boomer,  built  a  house  near  the  corner 
of  North  Main  and  Brownell  Sts.  in  1676,  and  in  1683  the  township 
was  established  under  the  name  of  Freetown.  In  this  same  year 
King  Philip  had  met  his  tragic  end  at  Mt.  Hope  on  the  southwest 
side  of  the  bay,  and  Weetamoe,  King  Philip's  sister  and  Wamsutta's 
wife,  was  drowned  in  her  flight  from  Fall  River  when  her  hastily  con- 
structed raft  broke  up  at  a  point  where  the  bridge  crosses  the  river 
above  the  city.  In  1803  the  name  of  the  settlement  was  altered  to 
Troy,  but  changed  again  in  1834  to  Fall  River.  The  city,  chartered 
in  1854,  lay  partly  in  Rhode  Island  and  Massachusetts,  but  in  1861 
the  territory  south  of  Columbia  was  taken  from  Rhode  Island  in  ex- 
change for  a  portion  of  Pawtucket. 

In  1832  a  skeleton  in  armor  was  uncovered  in  the  sand  bank  near 
Hartwell  and  Fifth  Sts.;  it  was  surrounded  by  copper  bangles  and 
pieces  of  copper  armor.  On  the  breast  was  a  plate  thirteen  inches  long 
and  six  broad.  The  belt  was  composed  of  brass  tubes  forty-one  inches 
long.  Longfellow's  imagination  was  fired  by  this  discovery.  With 


582  FALL   RIVER— TIVERTON 

ingenuous  enthusiasm  he  writes:  "The  skeleton  in  armor  really  exists. 
It  was  dug  up  near  Fall  River,  where  I  saw  it  two  years  ago.  I  sup- 
pose it  was  one  of  the  old  northern  sea  rovers  who  came  to  this  coun- 
try in  the  tenth  century."  He  has  immortalized  it  in  his  wellknown 
poem  "The  Skeleton  in  Armor."  The  skeleton's  claim  to  Norse 
origin  was  based  upon  a  chemical  analysis  of  its  armor,  found  to  be 
almost  identical  with  Norse  armor.  In  the  fire  of  1843,  which  destroyed 
nearly  200  buildings,  this  skeleton  was  destroyed.  In  1916  fire  again 
wiped  out  two  blocks  in  the  heart  of  the  city. 

In  1811  Colonel  Joseph  Durfee,  the  Revolutionary  leader,  built 
the  first  cotton  mill  at  Globe  Village,  where  it  still  stands,  by  the 
pond  at  the  corner  of  South  Main  and  Globe  Sts.  Oliver  Chace  and 
David  Anthony  were  other  industrial  pioneers.  Bradford  Durfee  and 
Richard  Borden  early  in  the  nineteenth  century  organized  the  Fall 
River  Iron  Works,  which  today  manufactures  cotton  goods. 

The  manufacturing  aristocracy  of  Fall  River — the  Bordens  and 
Durfees  and  other  mill-owning  families — are  of  the  earliest  settlers. 
The  first  Richard  Borden  came  from  England  in  1635.  The  earliest 
conquerors  of  the  soil  have  here  established  an  unconquerable  domain 
based  on  industrial  force  more  potent  and  more  lasting  than  the  sword. 
The  four  million  spindles  of  Fall  River  whirl  at  their  command  and 
are  served  by  imported  labor.  The  Fall  River  Line  was  established 
by  the  Bordens  and  other  Fall  River  men  and  developed  by  them  until 
absorbed  by  the  New  Haven  octopus. 

Beyond  the  city  limits  there  are  many  popular  resorts.  The  south 
end  of  Watuppa  Lake  is  a  favorite  place  for  relaxation,  and  there  are 
numberless  holiday  and  vacation  settlements  on  the  shores  of  the 
rivers  and  bays  nearby.  Fall  River  aristocracy  make  their  summer 
homes  at  several  shore  resorts  on  Narragansett  and  Mt.  Hope  bays 
and  on  the  seacpast,  among  which  Westport  Point  and  Acoaxet  and 
the  quaint  old  village  of  Little  Compton  are  worth  mentioning. 

Leaving  Fall  River  via  South  Main  St.,  the  highway  takes 
us  through  the  section  known  as  The  Globe,  past  the  Globe 
Mill  above  mentioned,  and  along  the  ridge  of  Townsend  Hill, 
two  hundred  feet  above  Mt.  Hope  Bay,  where  we  cross  the 
boundary  line  into  Rhode  Island.  A  mile  and  a  half  further 
on  we  skirt  Pocasset  Hill.  Opposite  is  Mt.  Hope,  for  many 
years  a  residence  of  King  Philip,  where  he  made  his  last  stand. 

57.5  TIVERTON.  Pop  4032  (1910),  4409  (1915).  Newport  Co. 
Settled  1680.  Indian  name  Pocasset. 

Today  this  is  a  mere  village,  because  of  its  road  houses 
known  as  a  sporty  spot.  Round  about  are  several  residential 
colonies.  Purchased  from  the  Indians  in  1680  by  the  Plymouth 
Colony,  it  was  sold  to  Edward  Gray  and  seven  others  for  eleven 
hundred  pounds,  a  startling  price  in  those  bargain  days  of  real 
estate.  In  contrast  to  the  other  Massachusetts  towns,  Tiverton 
neglected  religion  and  education  in  spite  of  the  many  protests  for- 
warded to  the  General  Court.  The  first  church  was  not  formed 
until  1746  shortly  before  it  became  a  part  of  Rhode  Island. 

In  Revolutionary  days  the  Heights  of  Tiverton  were  held  by  one 
of  the  encampments  of  the  American  Army.  An  English  man-of-war, 
the  galley  "Pigot,"  was  stationed  in  the  Sakonnet  narrows.  On  an 
October  night  in  1778,  Major  Silas  Talbot  of  Providence  quietly  sailed 


R.  32.     BOSTON  TO   NEWPORT  583 

down  the  river  in  the  "Hawk"  with  a  few  men  and  even  fewer  weapons 
and  captured  the  Britishers  without  losing  a  single  life  on  either  side. 

Tiverton  was  long  the  site  of  malodorous  menhaden  fac- 
tories where  the  fish  were  worked  up  into  oil  and  fertilizer. 
The  seven  Church  brothers  who  founded  the  industries  went 
after  the  pogies,  or  mossbunkers,  as  they  are  variously  called, 
with  purse  nets,  from  Maine  to  Hatteras. 

Note.  A  fine  road  leads  south  ten  miles  to  Little  Compton 
and  Sakonnet.  The  countryside,  unspoiled  by  the  trolley, 
the  steam  train,  or  any  of  the  excursionist's  'attractions' 
that  accompany  them,  is  of  long-established  richness  and 
prosperity,  with  some  well-kept  houses  dating  back  almost  to 
"Mayflower"  days,  some  delightful  newer  ones,  and  fine  crags 
and  intervening  beaches.  It  is  the  most  prosperous  of  all  the 
strictly  rural  districts  of  the  State  and  only  at  the  very  '  Point ' 
itself,  where  the  boats  from  Providence  loiter  an  hour  or  so 
each  day  in  summer  while  their  passengers  get  clam  dinners 
in  the  dining  hall,  is  there  any  suggestion  of  the  features  that 
mar  the  seaside  charm  of  more  accessible  neighborhoods. 

From  Tiverton  the  route  leaves  the  mainland  and  crosses 
to  the  island  of  Aquidneck,  often  awkwardly  called  the 
Island  of  Rhode  Island,  by  the  new  steel  bridge  replacing  the 
old  stone  causeway  across  the  narrow  channel  through  which 
the  tide  races  at  ebb  and  flow.  Below,  the  broad  estuary  of 
the  Sakonnet  river  extends  to  the  south,  its  steep  slopes  show- 
ing clearly  the  character  of  this  drowned  valley.  Far  to  the 
south  is  Sakonnet  Point  with  its  lighthouse,  a  prominent  land- 
mark along  this  coast.  The  route  runs  through  the  center 
of  the  island  high  up,  at  an  elevation  averaging  200  feet.  From 
Quaker  Hill  (68.0)  we  have  an  extended  view  over  the  sur- 
rounding water,  the  Sakonnet  river,  and  the  islands  of  Narra- 
gansett  Bay.  The  ancient  windmills  on  the  hilltops  are  thor- 
oughly picturesque  and,  strange  to  say,  still  useful. 

Some  years  ago  the  enterprising  sons  of  an  oldtime  miller,  who  had 
recently  left  his  windmill  and  the  rest  of  the  world  behind,  conceived 
the  idea  that  the  time-honored  product  of  johnny-cake  meal  merely 
needed  business-like  promotion  and  clever  advertising  in  order  to  es- 
tablish a  lively  trade.  Not  only  is  there  some  peculiarly  rare  and 
elusive  quality  in  the  corn  grown  within  reach  of  the  salt  breath  of 
the  sea,  but  all  the  richness  and  sweetness,  as  every  true  Rhode  Islander 
will  testify,  is  crushed  and  burned  and  mangled  from  it  when  the  grain 
is  ground  by  any  process  faster  than  that  of  the  old  wind  or  water 
mills  of  Colonial  days, — and  this  is  probably  a  scientific  fact  as  well 
as  a  tradition.  The  result  of  this  modern  salesmanship  was  surprising. 
The  product  soon  found  its  way  to  the  fancy  grocery  shops  of  the  big 
cities.  One  mill  soon  became  quite  inadequate  for  the  work  demanded 
of  it  and  presently  all  of  the  surviving  mills  on  the  island  awoke  from 
their  condition  of  picturesque  retirement  and  set  to  work  again  with 
all  the  industry  of  their  youthful  days. 


584  TIVERTON— NEWPORT 

The  Island  of  Rhode  Island  is  a  rocky,  wooded  ridge  about 
fifteen  miles  long.  The  State  takes  its  name  from  the  island, 
which  was  named  perhaps  from  the  fact  that  it  lies  in  the 
roads  of  Narragansett  Bay,  or,  as  has  been  conjectured,  from 
its  similarity  in  form  to  the  Isle  of  Rhodes  in  the  Mediterra- 
nean; perhaps  it  is  a  corruption  of  the  Dutch  for  "red  island." 
The  rocks  of  the  island  are  made  up  of  carboniferous  strata, 
greatly  folded  and  contorted.  In  the  sparsely  settled  northern 
portion  of  the  island  which  constitutes  the  township  of  Ports- 
mouth, considerable  deposits  of  coal  have  been  known  for  a 
century  or  more.  The  coal  is  a  very  hard  anthracite  which 
has  defied  all  efforts  to  utilize  it  commercially.  The  last 
attempt,  ten  years  ago,  engineered  by  H.  M.  Whitney,  re- 
sulted in  a  considerable  development  work  and  a  large  sale 
of  stocks  and  bonds  that  put  plenty  of  money  into  the  mine, 
though  very  little  has  ever  been  taken  out.  Some  have 
thought  this  coal  better  adapted  for  the  lining  of  blast  furnaces 
than  for  use  as  a  fuel.  It  has  been  claimed  in  the  courts  that 
Rhode  Island  coal  has  cost  the  public  $3,230,000  cash. 

The  township  of  Portsmouth  was  founded  in  1638  by  refugees  from 
the  Bay  Colony,  led  by  Dr.  John  Clarke,  a  Baptist,  who  sought  to 
establish  a  "civil  state  with  perfect  freedom  in  religious  concern- 
ments." During  the  Revolution  interesting  incidents  occurred  here. 

Butts  Hill  Fort,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  north  of  Bristol  Ferry,  and 
an  equal  distance  from  the  Tiverton  Bridge,  was  built  by  the  British 
in  1776.  Here  two  years  later  General  Sullivan,  with  his  greatly 
reduced  and  demoralized  army,  won  the  Battle  of  Rhode  Island, 
called  by  Lafayette  "the  best  fought  action  of  the  war."  For  the 
first  time  a  regiment  of  negro  soldiers  took  part  in  the  war.  They 
threw  themselves  upon  the  enemy  so  fiercely  that  the  Hessians  were 
put  to  rout,  and  after  the  battle  reported  that  they  had  been  attacked 
by  savages,  "all  of  whom  were  more  than  eight  feet  tall."  Pictu- 
resque Butts  Hill  is  the  best  preserved  fort  in  the  State.  It  com- 
mands a  magnificent  view  of  Narragansett  Bay  and  its  environs,  and 
its  purchase  has  been  urged  for  a  State  reservation. 

One  of  Rhode  Island's  boldest  strikes  in  behalf  of  liberty  was  the 
capture  of  General  Prescott,  commander  of  the  British  forces  in  the 
State,  with  headquarters  at  Newport,  by  General  William  Barton  on 
the  night  of  July  9,  1777.  Prescott  frequently  spent  the  night  at  the 
house  of  a  man  named  Overing,  about  five  miles  above  Newport  on 
the  west  road.  Major  Barton  of  the  American  force  at  Tiverton,  with 
forty  picked  men,  acting  on  information  a  young  German  barmaid 
had  gained  from  Hessian  officers,  by  a  stealthy  approach  captured  the 
British  commander,  and  departed  with  such  secrecy  that  nothing  was 
known  of  whence  he  came  or  where  he  went,  until  he  sent  word  from 
Providence.  The  house  in  which  the  affair  took  place  is  marked  by 
a  tablet.  It  is  now  an  ell  to  the  larger  building,  seen  from  the  road, 
which  is  125  years  old. 

One  Jimmy  Barker,  so  the  story  goes,  lived  out  upon  the  main  road 
during  the  Revolutionary  days,  in  a  house  that  still  survives,  upon  the 
west  side  of  that  thoroughfare.  A  patriot  at  heart,  and  survivor  of 
certain  marital  difficulties,  the  worthy  James,  during  the  British  occu- 
pation, decided  that  a  public  proclamation  of  his  principles  could 
serve  no  desirable  end,  and  being  the  possessor  of  a  pleasant  country 


R.  32.     BOSTON   TO   NEWPORT  585 

place  and  a  bountiful  orchard,  his  hospitality  to  the  officers  of  the 
Royal  forces  soon  became  appreciated  and  much  accepted.  "Out 
to  Jimmy's"  was  a  comfortable  moonlight  canter,  for  those  whose 
rank  or  leave  of  absence  permitted  some  escape  from  the  military 
discipline  within  the  town. 

Squire  Barker  was  a  brewer  of  a  quite  alluring  brand  of  applejack, 
the  properties  of  which  were  at  once  to  inspire  confidence  in  one's 
host  and  to  stimulate  loquacity.  Around  his  hospitable  board,  there- 
fore, many  of  the  plans  for  surprise  attacks  against  the  mainland  were 
discussed  and  carefully  rehearsed,  to  which  the  enthusiastic  Rhode 
Islander  occasionally  added  some  suggestion  or  bit  of  advice  and 
incidentally  made  mental  note  of  all  the  movements  as  proposed. 
When  his  guest  rooms  were  all  occupied  and  the  floor  under  the  table 
was  being  found  no  less  hospitable  than  the  board  itself  had  been, 
crafty  Jimmy  would  go  out  with  his  lantern  to  feed  the  horse  or  to  find 
his  wandering  cows.  Such  occupations  as  these  might  even  lead  him 
across  the  fields  and  down  to  the  Sakonnet  river's  edge,  where  the 
movements  of  his  lantern  were  more  than  likely  to  attract  attention 
from  watchful  waiters  on  the  opposite  shore,  who  would  then  paddle 
across  to  look  for  scribbled  messages  secreted  by  the  waterside. 

The  fact  that  Jimmy  survived  the  war  and  lived  to  a  good  old  age 
appears  to  indicate  that  no  suspicion  on  the  part  of  his  guests  was  ever 
directed  toward  him,  even  though  all  their  efforts  always  failed  to 
gain  a  foothold  on  the  mainland  side,  and  a  warm  reception  seemed 
always  prepared  for  the  most  carefully  plotted  British  expeditions. 

If  the  details  of  either  these  attempted  raids  or  of  the  visits  to 
Jimmy's  hospitable  home  have  been  trimmed  up  a  bit  with  the  passing 
of  the  years,  the  fact  remains  that  somehow  somebody  was  always 
well  aware  of  every  intended  movement  far  enough  in  advance  to 
checkmate  it  most  successfully  and  to  keep  the  enemy's  forces  bottled 
up  upon  the  island  of  Aquidneck. 

A  little  nearer  Newport,  a  brook  meanders  under  the  road  and  falls 
picturesquely  into  a  glen  now  known  as  Lawton's  Valley.  In  this 
romantic  spot  dwelt  Polly  Lawton,  whose  hospitable  feeling  toward 
the  French  officers  who  followed  the  English  occupants  of  Newport 
has  added  interesting  traditions  to  heighten  the  charm  of  the  national 
setting  of  another  old  Colonial  house. 

Through  Middletown,  the  next  township,  the  evidences  of 
habitation  become  more  frequent,  As  we  approach  Newport, 
on  either  side  of  the  road  are  the  pleasure  farms  belonging  to 
members  of  the  Newport  Social  Colony.  In  the  paddocks  are 
blooded  cattle  and  horses,  and  the  establishments  give  evidence 
of  the  expenditure  of  great  wealth. 

70.0  NEWPORT.  Pop  29,154  (1910),  30,472  (1915).  County-seat 
of  Newport  Co.  Settled  1639.  Port  of  Entry.  Mfg.  re- 
productions of  antique  furniture,  and  chewing  gum.  Fall 
River  Line  Steamers  to  New  York  and  Providence;  ferries 
to  Jamestown  and  Wickford. 

Newport  is  best  known  as  a  fashionable  summer  resort. 
From  July  to  October  the  'cottage  colony'  along  Bellevue  Ave., 
the  Cliff  Walk,  and  Ocean  Drives  represents  an  aggregation  of 
multi-millionaires  and  -airesses  who  control  a  larger  propor- 
tion of  the  nation's  wealth  than  any  similar  group  elsewhere 
congregated.  The  original  attraction  of  Newport  before  it 


$86  NEWPORT 

became  fashionable  was  an  alluring  climate  with  an  equable 
temperature  because  of  the  surrounding  waters,  while  the 
high  colors  on  water  and  shore,  the  sunsets,  and  the  highest 
cliffs  between  Cape  Ann  and  Yucatan  produced  land  and 
marine  views  rarely  equaled. 

Newport  had  its  "golden  age"  prior  to  its  "gilded"  one, 
according  to  President  Faunce  of  Brown  University.  At 
present  its  strategic  location,  which  is  no  less  notable  than 
either  its  position  of  social  prominence  or  scenic  charm,  bids 
fair  to  bring  it  into  fame  among  the  great  naval  and  military 
stations  of  the  world,  and  it  is  liable  to  develop  out  of  the 
insularity  that  comes  through  idle-mindedness  for  six  months 
of  every  year  when  the  summer  residents,  upon  which  the 
townspeople  thrive,  are  absent.  During  these  long  days, 
Newport,  which  has  no  industries  to  speak  of  and  none  of  the 
ordinary  activities  of  the  average  American  town,  lives  largely 
upon  the  memory  of  the  somewhat  distant  past,  when  it  is 
not  engaged  in  figuring  out  its  more  or  less  parasitic  plans 
for  the  coming  summer. 

A  prosperous  commercial  center  from  the  very  beginning  of 
the  eighteenth  century,  it  later  in  the  same  century  became 
wealthy  and  renowned;  but  its  present  vogue  as  the  boasted 
summer  capital  dates  from  about  1850.  From  the  social 
point  of  view — the  only  one  possible — one  may  easily  distin- 
guish four  Newports,  and  one  of  these  at  least  is  capable  of 
much  finer  and  more  fastidious  subdivision. 

The  first  is  the  historic  Newport  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
adjacent  to  the  harbor  as  it  remains  today,  a  dirty  little  old 
town  with  narrow,  obscure  streets.  A  second  Newport  trav- 
ersed in  entering  from  the  north  is  modern, — a  bourgeois, 
semi-citified,  all-the-year-round  residential  district  of  thrifty, 
good-natured,  more  or  less  industrious  citizens.  To  these 
winter  residents  of  the  island  city,  where  the  pre-Revolutionary 
mental  attitude  still  prevails  to  an  amusing  extent,  the  rest 
of  the  world  is  looked  upon  as  inhabited  by  a  quite  inferior 
race.  The  third;  the  naval  and  military  colony  adjunct  to 
the  War  College,  the  Training  Station  on  Coasters  Harbor 
Island,  and  Fort  Adams,  is  another  all-the-year-round  commu- 
nity whose  uniforms  blossom  out  more  conspicuously  in  the 
'season.'  The  fourth,  the  Newport  of  the  social  pages  of  the 
Sunday  newspapers,  the  fashionable  Newport  to  which  mill- 
ionaires aspire,  lies  south  of  the  Old  Town  on  the  flat  tableland 
which  forms  the  southern  end  of  the  island  of  Aquidneck. 
Here  are  the  'cottages'  costing  from  $100,000  to  $2,000,000, 
creating  a  sky  line  which  seen  from  the  Cliff  Walk  seems  as 
impressive  in  its  way  as  that  of  lower  Manhattan.  But  New- 


R.  32.     BOSTON   TO   NEWPORT  587 

port,  nevertheless,  is  a  place  of  rare  natural  charm  and  historic 
interest.  A  pilgrimage  through  its  older  streets  will  give  a 
new  inspiration  to  the  tourist  who  has  hitherto  quite  gener- 
ally been  led  to  believe  that  his  opportunities  ended  with 
the  Cliff  Walk,  The  Avenue,  and  the  abodes  of  the  oppres- 
sively opulent. 

Old  Newport  was  founded  in  1639  by  the  Antinomians  and  other 
religious  refugees  from  the  Bay  Colony.  It  was  an  offshoot  of  the 
colony  founded  a  year  earlier  on  the  northern  part  of  the  island 
(p  584).  In  1640  the  two  towns,  which  then  had  a  population  of 
nearly  1000,  united  to  form  the  "Colony  of  Rhode  Island."  In  1647 
the  colony  united  with  Providence.  The  Baptist  Church,  established 
here  in  1640,  except  for  the  one  in  Providence,  is  the  oldest  in  the 
United  States.  Here,  too,  was  opened  the  first  public  school  in  Amer- 
ica, and  possibly  the  first  school  accessible  to  all,  supported  by  the 
public  charge,  in  the  world.  Quakers,  Moravians,  Baptists,  Jews,  all 
found  at  Newport  a  haven  of  refuge. 

From  1739  to  1760  the  foundation  of  Newport's  prosperity  was  laid 
through  the  establishment  of  the  "Triangular  Trade."  The  merchants 
of  Newport  waxed  wealthy,  importing  molasses  from  the  West  Indies, 
distilling  it  into  rum,  which  they  exchanged  in  Africa  for  "niggers," 
which  in  turn  were  exchanged  in  the  Barbadoes  for  more  molasses, 
and  so  the  vicious  circle  ran  on,  to  the  great  profit  of  Newport  mer- 
chants, until  through  more  molasses,  more  rum,  more  "niggers," 
wealth  accumulated  and  with  it  came  fashion,  function,  and  ceremony. 
Before  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution  the  foreign  trade  of  Newport 
was  greater  than  that  of  New  York,  and  the  exalted  social  status  of 
its  wealthy  citizens  was  recognized  not  only  throughout  the  colonies, 
but  in  Jamaica  and  Antigua. 

During  the  Revolution,  the  English  and  later  the  French  occupied 
Newport,  as  it  was  an  important  strategic  center.  This  naturally 
killed  its  commerce,  which  never  again  revived.  The  British  during 
their  occupation  greatly  injured  the  town.  Nearly  a  thousand  build- 
ings were  destroyed.  Trinity  Church  was  the  only  important  build- 
ing not  used  as  hospital  or  barracks,  because  of  the  crown  on  its  spire. 
The  long  military  occupation,  and  the  suppression  of  the  slave  trade, 
reduced  Newport  and  Rhode  Island  generally  to  poverty.  It  was  to 
Newport  that  Rochambeau  sailed  with  his  French  army  and  made 
his  headquarters  while  he  restored  the  fortifications  and  redoubts 
which  had  been  dismantled.  Claude  Blanchard,  commissary-in-chief 
of  the  French  forces,  left  some  interesting  records  of  his  impressions 
of  Americans  as  seen  in  Rhode  Island:  "The  Americans  are  slow  and 
do  not  decide  promptly  in  matters  of  business.  It  is  not  easy  for  us 
to  rely  upon  their  promises.  They  love  money  and  hard  money. 
They  do  not  eat  soups  and  do  not  serve  up  ragouts  at  their  dinners 
but  boiled  and  roast  and  much  vegetables.  They  drink  nothing  but 
cider  and  Madeira  wine  with  water.  The  dessert  is  composed  of 
preserved  quinces  and  pickled  sorrel.  They  do  not  take  coffee  imme- 
diately after  dinner  but  it  is  served  three  or  four  hours  after  with  tea. 
This  coffee  is  weak  and  four  or  five  cups  are  not  equal  to  one  of  ours, 
so  they  take  many  of  them.  The  tea  on  the  contrary  is  very  strong." 

It  was  at  this  time  that  the  Dumplings  and  the  original  Fort  Adams 
were  constructed.  Brissot  de  Warville's  record  of  his  journey  in  the 
U.S.,  in  1788,  draws  this  melancholy  picture  of  Newport  at  that  time: 
"Houses  falling  to  ruin;  miserable  shops;  grass  growing  in  the  public 
square  in  front  of  the  Court  of  Justice;  rags  stuffed  in  the  windows  or 
hung  upon  hideous  women  and  lean,  unquiet  children." 


NEWPORT 


Washington  Square,  or  the  Parade,  the  center  of  old  Newport, 
contains  the  statue  of  Oliver  Hazard  Perry,  the  hero  of  Lake 
Erie.  It  stands  nearly  opposite  the  old  Seixas  mansion, 
Perry's  last  residence.  At  the  head  of  the  square  is  the  old 
State  House,  built  in  1743,  a  Colonial  building  of  dignity  and 
distinction,  used  as  a  hospital  during  the  Revolution,  and  now 
used  as  a  court  house.  In  the  senate  chamber  hangs  Gilbert 
Stuart's  familiar  full-length  painting  of  Washington.  From 
its  balcony  the  accession  of  George  III,  the  Declaration  of 
Independence,  and  many  other  occurrences  have  been  pro- 
claimed. At  the  foot  of  the  square  is  the  old  brick  Market,  de- 
signed and  built  by  Peter  Harrison  in  1762,  still  stately  in  spite 
of  defacement.  This  is  on  the  old  model  of  English  market- 
houses,  with  open  arcades  below.  Close  by,  on  the  corner 
of  Marlborough  and  Furwell  Sts.,  is  the  old  Nichols  House, 
which  about  1739  became  famous  as  the  White  Horse  Tavern, 
and  the  old  jail  where  the  prisoners  grumbled  because  there 
were  no  locks  and  honor  forbade  them  to  escape, — a  strange 
example,  if  it  is  true,  of  "honor  among  thieves."  Below  the 
Market  is  Long  Wharf,  where  Washington  and  Rochambeau 
reviewed  the  French  troops,  and  where  the  funeral  cortege  of 
Admiral  de  Ternay  landed  in  1780. 

In  Touro  St.  is  the  Jewish  Synagogue,  the  oldest  in  America, 
built  by  Peter  Harrison  in  1760.  Massively  plain  without,  it 
is  "a  dream  of  delight  within."  It  is  of  historic  interest,  as 
the  General  Assembly  met  in  this  building  in  1780.  The  first 
rabbi  was  the  Rev.  Isaac  Touro,  from  whose  family  the  street 
was  named.  His  sons  were  wellknown  philanthropists  who 
gave  large  sums  for  the  synagogue,  Touro  Park,  and  the  Red- 
wood Library.  The  Newport  Historical  Society  is  next  the 
synagogue  and  is  open  daily,  except  Sundays.  At  the  head 
of  the  street  is  the  beautiful  Jewish  Cemetery,  dating  from 
1677  and  containing  the  remains  of  many  highly  honored 
citizens  and' scholars.  Touro  Stroet  runs  into  Bellevue  Ave., 
the  first  part  of  which  was  formerly  called  Jew  Street. 

The  Redwood  Library,  on  the  left,  though  it  cannot  claim 
great  size  or  merit  today,  was  the  earliest  library  of  its  sort 
in  America,  a  monument  of  early  culture  at  Newport,  and 
the  influence  for  Bishop  Berkeley's  residence.  Sir  Walter 
Scott's  uncle  was  its  first  librarian.  For  a  time  it  was  the 
second  library  in  importance  in  America,  after  that  of  Har- 
vard College;  today  it  has  65,000  volumes.  It  was  the  out- 
growth of  a  philosophical  society  and  owes  its  immediate 
origin  to  Abraham  Redwood,  a  Quaker,  who  donated  his 
books  and  five  hundred  pounds  sterling  for  the  purchase  of 
other  books.  The  building  was  the  first  work  of  Peter  Harrison, 


BOSTON    TO    NEWPORT 


589 


1748,  built  by  subscription  of  the  townspeople.  The  portico, 
shaded  by  a  beautiful  fern-leafed  beech,  was  restored  by  Judah 
Touro.  The  building  contains  many  early  portraits,  includ- 


1  Washington  Square 

or  the  Parade 

2  The  OldjState  House 

3  The  Old  Market 

4  St.  John's  Church 

5  The  Nichols  House 

6  Long  Wharf 

7  The  Perry  Mansion 

8  The  Jewish  Synagogue 

9  Redwood  Library 
10  Old  Stone  Mill 
it  Perry  Statue 


12  Channing  Memorial 

Church 

13  Trinity  Church 

14  The  Casino 

15  J-  J-  Van  Alen 

1 6  Robert  Goelet 

17  Ochre  Court 

Ogden  Goelet 

1 8  Wolfe-Lorillard- 

Twombly 
ig  The  Breakers 
20  Mrs.  Herman  Oelrichs 


21  Vincent  Astor 

22  Marble  Palace 

23  W.  W.  Astor 

24  Mrs.  Joseph  Widener 

25  Charles  W.  Lippitt 

26  Clews  House 

27  Stuyvesant  Fish 

28  U.S.  Life  Saving  Sta. 

29  J.  P.  Morgan 

30  Theodore  M.  Davis 

31  Agassiz  Estate 

32  E.  D.  Morgan 


500  NEWPORT 

ing  five  by  Gilbert  Stuart,  and  a  collection  of  portraits  of  eigh- 
teenth-century Indian  chieftains.  The  handsome  interior  has 
recently  been  restored.  The  land  on  which  the  library  stands 
was  formerly  a  bowling  green  where,  on  a  summer  evening, 
our  ancestors  enjoyed  a  quiet  hour  with  the  jack  and  the 
bowls  and  a  quiet  pipe  quite  as  much  as  the  modern  gymnast 
delights  in  a  match  of  smashing  tennis  or  furious  polo. 

In  Touro  Park  beyond  on  the  right  is  the  Old  Stone  Mill, 
the  subject  of  endless  futile  conjectures.  Such  a  footless 
savant  as  Professor  Rafn,  whoever  he  may  have  been,  said: 
"There  is  no  mistaking  in  this  instance  the  style  which  belongs 
to  the  Roman  or  ante-Gothic  architecture  which  in  England 
is  dominant,  Saxon  and  sometimes  Norman.  ...  I  am  per- 
suaded that  all  who  are  familiar  with  old  northern  architecture 
will  connote  that  this  building  was  erected  at  a  period  de- 
cidedly not  later  than  the  twelfth  century."  Longfellow, 
with  his  usual  uncritical  gullibility,  associated  this  with  the 
Norse  chieftain  which  the  skeleton  found  at  Fall  River  inspired 
in  his  imagination: 

"There  for  my  lady's  bower, 

Built  I  the  lofty  tower. 

Which,  to  this  very  hour, 

Stands  looking  seaward." 

Thomas  Wentworth  Higginson  spoke  of  this  Mill  as  "the 
only  thing  on  the  Atlantic  shore  which  has  had  time  to  forget 
its  birthdays."  However  prosaic,  it  is  probably  true  that  it 
was  built  by  Governor  Benedict  Arnold  for  a  windmill  and 
copied  from  an  old  stone  mill  still  standing  in  England.  In 
his  will,  1777,  he  described  it  as  "my  stone  built  wind  mill." 
This  Benedict  Arnold  was  the  great-great-grandfather  of  the 
infamous  Benedict  of  Revolutionary  times. 

In  Touro  Park  also  is  the  statue  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward  of  Com- 
modore Matthew  Perry,  brother  of  the  victor  of  Lake  Erie, 
by  whom  the  ports  of  Japan  were  opened  to  the  United  States, 
a  triumph  more  notable  than  his  brother's.  His  birthplace  is 
on  the  corner  of  Second  and  Walnut  Sts.  The  statue  of  William 
Ellery  Channing,  whose  nickname  as  a  schoolboy  was  'Peace- 
maker,' faces  the  Channing  Memorial  Church  on  Pelham  St. 
He  was  born  in  the  house  on  the  corner  of  Mary  and  School 
Sts.,  now  the  Children's  Home.  Near  Channing's  birthplace 
on  the  corner  of  Mary  and  Clark  Sts.  is  the  Vernon  house, 
which  Rochambeau  used  as  his  headquarters,  now  the  Charity 
Organization  building;  it  is  open  to  visitors.  On  the  corner 
of  Spring  and  Church  Sts.  is  Trinity  Church  with  the  British 
crown  and  pennon  still  on  the  spire.  In  style  it  follows  the 
work  of  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  simple  and  stately.  The  spire 


R.  32.     BOSTON   TO   NEWPORT  591 

is  a  wellknown  sailor's  landmark.  The  interior,  with  the  high 
pulpit  and  sounding  board  and  the  old  box  pews,  preserves  the 
Colonial  atmosphere.  Parts  of  the  original  organ,  the  gift 
of  Bishop  Berkeley,  are  still  preserved.  The  French  admiral 
de  Ternay's  gravestone  stands  in  the  entrance;  many  other 
ancient  stones  remain  in  the  churchyard. 

In  Thames  St.  is  the  house  from  which  Commodore  O.  H. 
Perry  was  married  and  set  out  for  Lake  Erie,  where  he  won 
the  famous  battle  of  1813  when  he  was  only  twenty-seven  years 
of  age.  On  his  return  he  was  carried  in  triumph  through  the 
streets  to  his  home  and  remained  here  until  ordered  to  com- 
mand the  West  Indies  squadron.  He  died  on  board  his  ship 
at  Port  of  Spain  in  1819. 

There  are  many  other  fine  old  houses  scattered  through  these 
quiet  streets,  and  windows  adorned  with  the  names  and  sen- 
timents of  the  heroes  of  the  times.  Hardly  a  corner  but  offers 
some  picturesque  glimpse  of  the  old  days  when  Timothy  Bige- 
low  "admired  the  fine  complexion  of  the  females,  but  noted  a 
particular  Rhode  Island  air  and  manner  in  the  walk  and  the 
deportment." 

At  Fort  Adams  on  the  point  of  land  between  Newport 
Harbor  and  Brentons  Cove  is  the  chief  military  post.  The 
old  mortar  battery  of  gray  masonry  defensively  effective  half 
a  century  ago  is  a  conspicuous  feature  from  the  harbor  side. 
The  modern  defenses,  masked  in  greensward,  are  less  notice- 
able. On  Goat  Island,  in  the  harbor,  is  the  torpedo  station. 
Usually  swarms  of  torpedo  boats  may  be  seen  here  poking  their 
noses  into  its  shore.  It  was  fortified  in  the  Revolution,  and 
here  in  1723  were  buried  twenty-six  pirates  who  had  been 
taken  by  the  British  ship-of-war  "Greyhound"  and  hanged 
on  Gravelly  Point.  Popular  superstition  long  peopled  the 
island  with  their  ghosts. 

The  Naval  Training  School,  for  sailors,  and  the  War  College, 
where  officers  of  the  navy  study  naval  subjects  and  war  prob- 
lems, are  on  Coasters  Harbor  Island,  which  is  connected  with 
the  mainland  by  a  causeway.  Below  at  the  Training  Station 
is  ordinarily  moored  the  old  frigate  "Constellation."  As  an 
important  naval  base  at  which  the  North  Atlantic  squadron 
spends  part  of  the  summer  with  due  festivity,  at  the  height  of 
the  season  navy  uniforms  are  seen  quite  frequently  at  the  balls 
and  dinners  of  the  'cottagers.' 

William  Brenton,  whose  name  is  perpetuated  in  landmarks 
about  Newport,  more  than  250  years  ago  built  a  great  mansion 
house  150  feet  square.  Although  he  was  the  pioneer  leisure 
resident,  the  charm  of  Newport  was  very  early  recognized  by 
South  Carolinians,  who  began  to  come  here  in  the  first  years 


592  NEWPORT 

of  the  nineteenth  century.  They  constituted  a  large  part  of 
its  society  up  to  the  Civil  War,  so  that  Newport  became  a 
notable  resort  even  before  the  'so's.  About  that  time  four 
families  from  Boston  and  eight  from  New  York  had  summer 
cottages  here.  The  social  'cottage  colony'  extends  south- 
ward from  the  Casino  to  the  left  of  Bellevue  Ave.  It  takes 
in  also  a  large  section  east  on  Rhode  Island  and  Gibbs  Ave?., 
which  is,  however,  more  particularly  the  residential  district  of 
the  large  and  increasing  winter  colony.  Many  of  the  cottages 
further  south  are  also  occupied  up  to  Thanksgiving  and  New 
Year.  There  is  an  increasing  tendency  to  stay  through  the 
long  fall,  which  always  extends  at  least  to  Christmas. 

The  Casino  is  a  long,  many-gabled  building  containing  club 
rooms,  a  theater,  etc.  On  its  courts,  in  August,  used  to  be 
decided  the  Lawn  Tennis  Championship  of  America.  Its 
place  is  now  taken  by  an  invitation  tournament  of  almost 
equal  prominence.  The  Avenue  from  here  on  is  lined  on  both 
sides  by  the  cottages  of  the  wealthy.  Among  the  more  not- 
able, about  halfway  down,  to  the  left  between  The  Avenue  and 
Cliff  Walk,  is  the  Vanderbilt  Marble  Palace.  The  Avenue  turns 
sharp  to  the  right,  skirting  Bailey's  Beach,  and  as  Ocean 
Avenue  continues  along  the  shore  for  ten  miles.  To  the  east 
is  Ochre  Point,  where  are  many  of  the  finest  places. 

The  Cliff  Walk  extends  from  Easton's  Beach  along  the  wind- 
ing brow  of  the  cliffs  for  over  three  miles  to  Bailey's  Beach. 
It  has  been  kept  open  as  a  public  right-of-way  in  spite  of  all 
the  pressure  that  some  of  the  wealthy  abutters  could  bring 
to  close  it.  Here  many  wander  along  the  lovely  pathway, 
ignoring  the  crags  and  beauties  of  the  sea,  choosing  rather  to 
gaze  upon  the  costly  fabrications  of  stone  and  timber  and 
marveling  at  the  wealth  of  the  society  that  frequents  them. 
Beyond  the  forty  steps,  which  descend  the  cliffs  at  the  foot 
of  Narragansett  Ave.,  we  enter  the  estate  of  Robert  Goelet, 
and  beyond  Webster  St.,  pass  Ochre  Court,  the  French  Renais- 
sance mansion  of  Mrs.  Ogden  Goelet,  a  reproduction  of  a 
Henri  IV  chateau  on  the  Loire.  Further  on,  we  pass  a  stone 
building,  the  Wolfe-Lorillard-Twombly  cottage.  Next  is 
The  Breakers,  the  enormous  freestone  mansion  built  by 
Cornelius  Vanderbilt,  with  a  rustic  summer  house  on  Ochre 
Point.  From  Ochre  Point  the  path  bends  to  the  right,  and 
we  enter  the  grounds  of  Perry  Belmont,  beyond  which  is  the 
villa  of  Mrs.  Herman  Oelrichs,  the  red  brick  villa  of  Vincent 
Astor,  and  the  white  Marble  Palace  built  by  Wm.  K. 
Vanderbilt,  now  owned  by  Mrs.  O.  H.  P.  Belmont,  and  another 
red  villa,  owned  by  William  Waldorf  Astor.  Beyond  Sheep 
Point  the  path  descends  to  a  lower  level.  Opposite  the  pic- 


R.  32.     BOSTON   TO   NEWPORT  593 

turesque  stone  house  of  Mrs.  Joseph  Widener  it  crosses  a  small 
rocky  bridge  and  passes  the  new  palace  of  Mrs.  A.  Hamilton 
Rice.  At  Land's  End  overlooking  Bailey's  Beach  is  the  battle  - 
mented  structure  built  by  Ex-governor  Charles  W.  Lippitt. 

Bailey's  Beach,  a  somewhat  protected  bay,  is  zealously 
guarded  for  the  elect.  At  the  very  end  of  Bailey's  Beach  is 
Spouting  Rock,  a  waveworn  chasm  where  the  surf  is  dashed 
high  in  air  after  a  southeast  gale.  Just  beyond,  at  the  corner 
of  Ocean  Ave.  and  Jefferson  Road,  is  The  Crossways,  the  resi- 
dence of  Mr.  Stuyvesant  Fish,  with  a  Colonial  portico.  From 
here  the  ten  miles  of  ocean  drive  follows  the  shore  with  glori- 
ous views  of  the  sea,  its  rocks  and  reefs,  and  on  the  right  the 
beautiful  moors. 

Inland  lie  Almy's  and  Lily  Ponds,  and  seaward,  Gooseberry 
Island  with  the  very  plain  house  of  the  Newport  Fishing  Club. 
Just  east  of  this  at  Graves  Point,  so  called  from  the  graves 
of  two  shipwrecked  seamen,  is  the  late  J.  Pierpont  Morgan's 
Newport  summer  home,  on  the  edge  of  the  sea,  with  a  fishing 
stage  for  sea  bass.  The  house  is  as  plain  as  any  shanty  of  a  rail- 
way construction  gang,  an  instance  of  the  diversity  of  Newport. 
Mr.  Morgan  passed  much  time  here.  On  Price's  Neck  is  the 
U.S.  Life  Saving  Station.  At  Brenton's  Point  is  the  house 
of  the  late  Theodore  M.  Davis,  the  Egyptologist.  The  road 
here  turns  to  the  right,  running  north  past  the  promontory  of 
Castle  Hill,  almost  cut  off  from  the  land  by  a  little  cove.  Here, 
on  the  summit,  is  the  modest  residence  of  the  late  Alexander 
Agassiz,  the  celebrated  son  of  a  still  more  celebrated  father, 
both  of  them  great  scientists.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the 
laboratory  where  Mr.  Agassiz  completed  the  study  and  re- 
searches of  his  deep-sea  investigations.  The  road  curves 
right  into  Harrison  Ave.  Inland  on  our  right  are  the  Polo 
Grounds,  Golf  Links,  and  Club  House.  On  the  left  are  sev- 
eral estates  and  Fort  Adams.  On  the  opposite  side  of  Bren- 
ton's Cove  is  Beacon  Rock,  the  residence  of  E.  D.  Morgan. 
To  the  right,  on  the  moors,  are  the  Grosvenor  and  Curtis 
James  places,  with  some  others. 

On  the  rocky  island  to  the  left  is  the  Lime  Rock  lighthouse, 
for  more  than  fifty  years  in  charge  of  Ida  Lewis,  'The  Grace 
Darling  of  America,'  who  saved  more  than  twenty-five  lives. 
Continuing  along  the  road,  skirting  the  Bay,  Thames  St.,  the 
chief  street  of  the  old  town,  leads  back  to  the  Parade. 

The  arrival  of  the  New  York  Yacht  Club  Squadron  on  its 
eastern  cruise  is  a  great  event  in  the  summer  life  of  Newport, 
a  fleet  of  pleasure  craft  representing  an  investment  of  many 
millions.  One  of  the  greatest  displays  of  pleasure  craft  the 
world  has  seen  is  then  here  gathered.  A  feature  of  the  visit 


594  NEWPORT 

is  the  night  water  fete,  when  the  Bay  is  bright  with  illuminated 
yachts  and  the  imagination  of  thousands  is  taxed  to  devise  new 
examples  of  illuminations  and  pageantry. 

East  of  Newport  is  Easton's  or  First  Beach,  which  is  the 
popular  resort  of  the  townspeople.  Beyond  are  Easton's 
Point  and  the  Clambake  Club,  and  further  on,  Sachuest,  or 
Second,  Beach.  Just  beyond  is  Purgatory,  a  vertical  fissure 
150  feet  long,  50  feet  deep,  and  from  eight  to  fifteen  feet  wide. 

The  road  to  Whitehall  leads  along  Easton's  Beach,  past 
Purgatory,  and  turns  to  the  left  past  farmhouses  to  a  farm 
lane  marked  by  a  sign.  This  is  the  entrance  to  Whitehall. 
The  house  may  be  dimly  seen  from  the  road, — a  low,  square 
building  with  a  lean-to  and  a  long  pitch  roof,  fronting  on  a  small 
garden  overgrown  with  fruit  trees.  This  was  the  residence 
of  Bishop  Berkeley  during  his  sojourn  of  three  years  here  at 
Newport.  The  estate  comprised  100  acres  about  two  miles 
back  from  the  Second  Beach.  When  he  left  America  to 
return  to  Ireland  he  presented  his  books  and  his  farm  to  Yale. 
The  College  leased  the  estate,  and  the  present  lease  still  has 
some  800  years  to  run. 

When  'Vanessa'  broke  with  Dean  Swift,  to  whom  in  her  will  she 
had  left  half  her  estate,  she  provided  Bishop  Berkeley  with  funds  to 
establish  a  collection  for  missionaries  in  the  Bermudas.  Berkeley,  on 
his  voyage,  stopped  at  Newport,  and,  fascinated  by  its  beauties,  set- 
tled here  to  study  and  write.  Already  he  had  advanced  his  theories 
on  the  great  illusion  as  to  the  existence  of  matter,  and  his  defense  of 
tar-water  as  a  cure  for  all  bodily  ills.  Meditating  on  a  rocky  ledge, 
still  known  as  Bishop  Berkeley's  Rock,  overlooking  the  ocean,  he 
composed  "Alciphron,"  one  line  of  which  has  been  remembered  ever 
since,  though  the  author  is  all  but  forgotten,  "Westward  the  course 
of  Empire  takes  its  way," — a  line  so  prophetic  and  so  full  of  prom- 
ise to  the  young  nation  that  it  could  not  quickly  lapse  into  oblivion. 
He  returned  to  labor  for  thirty  years  in  the  Bishopric  of  Cloyne. 

Modern  Newport  is  the  resort  of  art-loving  people.  Not  a 
few  of  the  finest  collections  in  America  are  here,  some,  how- 
ever, only  for  the  summer.  Especially  noteworthy  are  the 
Paliser  collection  of  E.  J.  Berwind,  the  Egyptian  antiquities 
and  Spanish  pictures  of  Theodore  Davis,  and  the  Barye  Collec- 
tion of  Bronzes  of  Mrs.  T.  K.  Gibbs. 

Newport  as  a  municipality  has  recently  awakened  to  civic 
consciousness.  In  1908  a  new  form  of  government  was 
adopted,  consisting  of  a  representative  council  of  195,  an 
apparently  unwieldy  body,  but  an  attempt  to  provide  a 
limited  'town  meeting'  system,  and  since  copied  by  Brook- 
line,  Mass.  Because  of  the  great  wealth  of  the  summer  resi- 
dents 70  per  cent  of  the  taxes  are  paid  by  non-residents,  and  to 
provide  some  degree  of  representation  for  them  a  new  charter 
has  recently  been  advanced,  in  which  Prof.  J.  W.  Burgess  has 
taken  a  prominent  part,  which  provides  that  all  taxpayers  resi- 


R.  32.     BOSTON   TO   NEWPORT  595 

dent  or  non-resident  assessed  $500  or  more  may  vote,  including 
women.  Other  novel  features  of  this  new  charter  provided 
is  State  control  of  police,  and  a  non-resident  city  administration 
if  the  council  so  desires. 

In  these  changes,  public-spirited  members  of  the  summer 
colony  have  worked  hand  in  hand  with  the  townspeople.  Co- 
incident with  this  there  has  been  an  effort  to  "clean  up  New- 
port," to  make  the  Old  Town  a  spotless  town,  for  the  U.S. 
Government  had  threatened  to  remove  the  Naval  Training 
Station  unless  conditions  were  improved.  This  has  been 
undertaken  by  an  "Army  and  Navy"  committee,  popularly 
known  as  the  'Vigilance  Committee.'  With  this  renaissance 
of  civic  life,  industries  have  been  invited  to  the  city,  and  the 
Common  Sense  Gum  Company  has  opened  a  plant  here. 

From  Newport  a  steamer  runs  through  to  Wickford  on 
Route  2  (p  178),  while  a  ferry  runs  to  Jamestown,  and  from 
the  opposite  side  of  Conanicut  Island  to  Saunderstown,  and 
Route  2  (p  177).  On  Conanicut,  especially  at  Jamestown, 
are  numerous  hotels  as  well  as  a  large  number  of  residences. 
Socially,  although  not  of  the  'Four  Hundred,'  the  inhabitants 
are  affiliated  with  Newport. 


R.  33.     BOSTON  to  RUTLAND,  VT.  160.0  m. 

Via  FITCHBURG,  KEENE,  BELLOWS  FALLS,  and  LUDLOW. 

This  route  affords  a  pleasant  route  from  Boston  to  Peterboro 
(from  Fitchburg),  to  Dublin  (from  Fitzwilliam) ,  and  from 
Bellows  Falls  to  the  upper  Connecticut  valley. 

R.  33  §  1.     Boston  to  Bellows  Falls.  109.0  m. 

Via  CONCORD,  FITCHBURG,  WINCHENDON,  and  KEENE. 
The  route  follows  Route   15   reversed,  with  red  markers, 
through  FITCHBURG  (47.5).     From  River  St.,  West  Fitchburg 
(49.7),  the  route  turns  right  on  Ashburnham  St.,  ascending  a 
grade.     It  is  clearly  marked  by  yellow  bands. 

56.0  ASHBURNHAM.  Alt  1080  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2107  (1910),  2059 
(1915).  Worcester  Co.  Settled  1765.  Mfg.  furniture,  cut- 
lery, and  artificial  limbs. 

Ashburnham  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  hill  country.  Phil- 
lips' Brook  supplies  waterpower  for  its  chair  factories. 

Gushing  Academy   occupies   a   prominent   position   in   the 
town.     The  square  modern  building  was  completed  in  1915, 
five  months  after  the  fire  which  destroyed  its  predecessor. 
Continuing  with  the  yellow  markers,  the  route  enters 

64.5  WINCHENDON.  Alt  933  ft.  Pop  (twp)  5678  (1910),  5908 
(1915).  Worcester  Co.  Settled  1751.  Mfg.  wooden  ware, 
toys,  chairs,  and  machinery. 

Winchendon,  the  'Toy  Town,'  is  an  attractive  old  village 
with  wide  shady  streets,  in  a  fine  upland  situation.  It  has 
become  a  rendezvous  for  motorists  largely  on  account  of  the 
Toy  Town  Tavern.  Beside  the  R.R.  station  a  huge  hobby 
horse  is  emblematic  of  the  toy  industry.  The  manufacture  of 
wooden  ware  has  long  been  the  predominant  industry;  more 
wooden  buckets  are  made  here  than  in  any  other  place  in  the 
country.  There  are  also  machine  shops  and  tanneries. 

Interesting  experiments  in  forestry  are  going  on  at  Winch- 
endon. Over  two  million  trees  have  been  planted  by  the 
Murdock  Company  in  the  last  six  or  seven  years,  for  the  most 
part  imported  Scotch  pine,  and  reforestation  is  now  being  taken 
up  by  several  of  the  other  firms.  The  State  has  recently 
acquired  several  thousand  acres  of  waste  lands  in  this  vicinity 
which  it  is  reforesting  with  white  and  Scotch  pine. 

This  frontier  plantation  was  first  known  as  Ipswich-Canada,  but 
when  incorporated  in  1764  was  named  after  Winchendon  in  England. 
The  wooden  ware  industry  dates  from  1827  and  doubtless  was  sug- 
gested by  the  splendid  growth  of  pine  which  once  clothed  these  hills. 
Shingles  were  manufactured  in  such  quantities  that  neighboring  com- 
munities called  the  place  'Shingleton.' 

The  route  continues  with  the  yellow  markers  to  the  New 
Hampshire  boundary  (68.0),  whence  the  color  is  orange. 

(596) 


R.  33    §  I-     BOSTON   TO   BELLOWS    FALLS  597 

73.5  FITZWILLIAM.  Alt  1057  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1148.  Cheshire  Co. 
Mfg.  granite. 

Fitzwilliam  is  a  picturesque  hill  town  unmarred  by  industrial 
blemish.  Just  to  the  west  of  the  town  is  Pinnacle  Hill,  and 
beyond,  the  ridge  of  Little  Monadnock  (1890  ft).  Ahead,  to 
the  north,  is  Gap  Mountain  (1900  ft),  and  beyond  it  rises  the 
cone  of  Monadnock  (R.  40). 

In  the  vicinity  of  Fitzwilliam  is  the  Rhododendron  Reser- 
vation of  the  Appalachian  Mountain  Club.  The  great  display 
of  blossoms  is  about  the  last  of  June.  The  Rhododendron 
cottage  here  is  leased  to  parties  by  the  Club. 

From  Fitzwilliam  the  route  leads  through  a  pleasant  valley, 
with  Monadnock  on  our  right,  to  the  little  village  of  TROY 
(76.5).  A  road  to  the  right  leads  round  the  base  of  Monad- 
nock through  a  very  picturesque  country  to  Dublin  (R.  40). 

The  road  to  Keene,  with  orange  markers,  continues  to  de- 
scend for  the  most  part,  following  for  some  distance  the  South 
branch  of  the  Ashuelot  river. 

82.5     MARLBORO.     Alt    800  ft.     Pop    (twp)    1478.     Cheshire    Co. 

Mfg.  blankets,  toys,  and  boxes. 

This  is  a  hill  village  in  the  valley  of  Minnewawa  Brook.  A 
few  factories  utilize  the  lumber  from  the  neighboring  hills. 

87.0  KEENE.  Alt  500  ft.  Pop  10,068.  County-seat  of  Cheshire 
Co.  Settled  1733.  Indian  name  Ashuelot.  Mfg.  furniture, 
pottery,  flannel,  shoes,  chairs,  boxes,  pails,  bicycles,  dress 
goods,  machinery,  sashes,  blinds,  and  shoes. 

Keene  is  a  live  manufacturing  town,  the  metropolis  of  south- 
western New  Hampshire.  The  numerous  industries  have  an 
annual  output  valued  at  $3,000,000.  On  the  outskirts  are 
many  attractive  streets  with  fine  elms  and  pleasant  homes. 
In  Central  Square,  where  the  Soldiers  and  Sailors'  Monument 
stands,  this  route  crosses  Route  ion  (p  336). 

The  original  name  of  Upper  Ashuelot  was  given  to  this  locality  in 
reference  to  the  Ashuelot  river,  which  runs  through  the  town;  Lower 
Ashuelot  being  the  present  Swanzey.  The  actual  meaning  of  this 
Indian  name  is  "in  the  very  midst,"  referring  to  an  angular  piece  of 
ground  at  the  confluence  of  the  Connecticut  and  this  smaller  stream. 
The  settlement,  a  Massachusetts  grant  of  1733,  suffered  so  from 
Indian  attacks  that  it  was  abandoned  from  1746  to  1750,  when  it  was 
re-established  and  named  in  honor  of  Sir  Benjamin  Keene,  a  noted 
English  diplomat. 

A  century  ago  President  Dwight  wrote:  "Keene  has  long  been  the 
prettiest  village  in  New  Hampshire.  ...  I  thought  it  one  of  the  pleas- 
antest  inland  towns  I  had  seen."  A  half  century  later  Francis  Parkman 
wrote:  "a  town  noted  in  rural  New  England  for  kindly  hospitality, 
culture  without  pretence,  and  good  breeding  without  conventionality." 

Leaving  Keene  by  West  St.  the  route  follows  the  trolley, 
turning  left  at  the  end  of  the  street  and  then  right  (90.0).  Pass- 
ing through  East  Westmoreland  (94.5)  the  road  joins  Route  10 


598  KEENE— RUTLAND 

(P  337)  at  Westmoreland  (98.5)  and  bears  right,  up  the  Con- 
necticut valley  to  Walpole  (104.5).     Here  it  turns  left,  crossing 
the  iron  bridge  over  the  Connecticut  river  and  turning  right, 
along  the  West  Bank  Section  of  Route  10  (p  332). 
109 .0     BELLOWS  FALLS  (R.  10,  p  333). 

R.  33  §  2.     Bellows  Falls  to  Rutland.  51.0  m. 

The  route  follows  the  Williams  river  and  Black  river  valleys 
and  crosses  the  Green  Mountains  by  way  of  Chester  and 
Ludlow.  The  road  is  mostly  good  gravel;  its  highest  point 
is  at  Summit  Station  (1511  ft). 

Leaving  Bellows  Falls  (p  333),  by  Rockingham  St.  the  route 
leads  northward  beside  R.R.,  which  it  follows  to  the  left  three 
miles  outside  the  town,  leading  northwest  by  the  Williams 
river  on  a  gravel  highway  through  the  hamlets  of  Rockingham 
(6.0),  Brockway  Mills  (9.0),  and  Bartonsville  (10.5).  After 
crossing  the  town  and  county  line  just  beyond,  the  road  enters 

13.5     CHESTER  (R.  43). 

The  route  now  takes  the  right  fork  beyond  the  hotel,  cross- 
ing the  Williams  river  and  passing  Butternut  Hill,  on  the  left. 
At  the  little  settlement  of  Gassetts  (18.5),  the  road  crosses 
R.R.  and  river,  taking  the  left  fork  marked  "Ludlow,"  and 
passing  the  Cavendish  town  line.  For  the  next  four  miles 
the  road  gently  ascends  a  remarkably  pretty  valley  and  then 
crosses  R.R.  once  more,  entering 

23.0  PROCTORSVILLE.  Alt  928  ft.  Pop  (Cavendish  twp),  1208. 
Windsor  Co.  Settled  1769.  Mfg.  lumber  products  and 
cassimeres. 

Slightly  north  of  this  quiet  country  village  are  valuable 
deposits  of  serpentine,  which  are  said  to  resemble  the  Egyp- 
tian marble.  Two  miles  to  the  east,  just  beyond  the  village  of 
Cavendish,  is  the  fantastic  gorge  of  the  Black  river,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  examples  of  erosion  in  the  country,  seventy- 
five  feet  deep,  with  many  curious  pot-holes  as  well  as  a  cavern. 
The  waterpower  is  now  utilized  by  a  hydro-electric  power 
company. 

In  Proctorsville  the  route  turns  to  the  left,  following  R.R. 
and  the  Black  river  valley  westward. 

26.5  LUDLOW.  Alt  1064  ft.  Pop  1621.  Windsor  Co.  Settled 
1784.  Mfg.  lumber  and  lumber  products,  woolen  and  shoddy 
goods,  and  horse  goods. 

Ludlow  is  a  manufacturing  village  at  the  foot  of  the  Green 
Mountains  near  the  headwaters  of  the  Black  river.  Much  of 
the  surrounding  hill  country  is  very  scantily  populated,  and 
there  are  several  good  trout  streams  in  the  district. 


R.  33   §  2.     BELLOWS   FALLS   TO   RUTLAND  599 

The  road  bears  to  the  right  at  the  further  end  of  the  village 
and  takes  the  left  fork  one  mile  beyond. 

Note.  The  right  fork  leads  eighteen  miles  northward  to 
Route  44.  It  goes  through  PLYMOUTH  past  the  Ludlovv 
ponds,  which  are  well  stocked  with  bass,  pickerel,  pout,  and 
dace.  In  the  flank  of  Mt.  Tom,  near  the  Black  river  in  Plym- 
outh, is  a  chain  of  limestone  caverns  100  feet  long.  At 
Plymouth  village  the  road  bears  right,  and  at  Bridgewater 
Corners  joins  Route  44,  from  White  River  Junction  to  Rutland. 

The  highway  soon  turns  westward  and  climbs  through 
Healdville  hamlet  in  the  wildest  part  of  the  mountains,  cross- 
ing the  Mount  Holly  town  and  the  Rutland  County  line  at 
Summit  Station  (33.0;  1511  ft).  To  the  left  is  Ludlow 
Mountain  (3372  ft),  with  Terrible  Mountain  (2844  ft)  and 
Markham  Mountain  (2489  ft)  further  south.  To  the  west  are 
the  hills  above  Otter  Creek,  the  valley  in  which  Rutland  lies. 
The  road  passes  through  the  mountain  village  of  Mount  Holly 
(35-°)>  taking  the  left  fork.  To  the  north  are  Killington  Peak 
(4241  ft)  and  Mount  Pico  (3967  ft),  over  which  climbs  the 
pedestrian  'Green  Mountain  Trail'  (p  259).  A  mile  and  a 
half  beyond  the  road  turns  left,  dropping  200  feet,  and  turning 
right,  beside  R.R.,  at  the  hamlet  of  Bowlsville  (37.0).  Enter- 
ing the  Mill  river  valley  it  crosses  the  Wallingford  town  line  at 

38.0    EAST  WALLINGFORD.     Alt  1234  ft.     Pop  (Wallingford  twp) 
1719.     Rutland  Co.     Settled  1770. 

This  district  is  a  favorite  feeding  ground  for  woodcock,  so 
that  sportsmen  are  plentiful  here  in  season.  Turning  right  in 
the  village  the  road  continues  past  Rogers  Hill,  on  the  right, 
and  Granite  Hill  (2007  ft),  on  the  opposite  bank.  Half  a  mile 
past  the  Shrewsbury  town  line  the  road  crosses  the  river  in 
the  hamlet  of  Cuttingsville  (41.0),  where  is  the  conspicuous 
granite  mausoleum  of  John  P.  Bowman,  a  wealthy  resident 
of  New  York  State.  The  Crown  Point  Road  (see  Charlestown, 
N.H.,  p  340)  ran  beside  the  tumbling  water  to  Clarendon. 
The  road  winds  on  down  the  valley,  crossing  the  town  line, 
avoiding  the  righthand  road  beyond  R.R.  crossing,  and  emerges 
from  the  mountains  at 

45.0    EAST  CLARENDON.     Alt  845  ft.     Pop  (Clarendon  twp)  857. 

Rutland  Co.     Settled  1768. 

Curving  right  through  the  little  settlement,  the  road  runs 
north  along  the  gentle  slopes  above  the  meandering  Otter 
Creek  and  meets  Route  5  at 

57.0     RUTLAND  (p  263). 


R.  34.     BOSTON  to  THE  WHITE  MTS.     188.0  m. 

Via  LOWELL,  CONCORD,  LAKE  WINNEPESAUKEE,  and  the 

FRANCONIA  NOTCH. 

This  Merrimack  Valley  Route  is  one  of  the  most  important 
and  interesting  north  and  south  highways  in  New  England. 
It  is  the  most  traveled  thoroughfare  to  the  summer  pleasure 
grounds  of  the  New  Hampshire  lakes  and  the  White  Mountains. 

The  route  leads  through  the  suburban  cities  of  Somerville 
and  Medford,  the  Mystic  valley  to  Winchester,  and  the  great 
textile  city  of  Lowell.  Thence  it  follows  the  Merrimack  valley 
through  the  mill  towns  of  Nashua  and  Manchester  to  Concord. 
It  is  State  Road  marked  with  blue  bands  to  the  New  Hamp- 
shire line,  and  thence  with  green  bands  with  white  border. 

Note.  For  an  alternative  route  to  Lowell  via  Arlington, 
Burlington,  and  Billerica,  see  Route  27  (p  508). 

Leaving  Boston  by  Harvard  Bridge,  turn  right  at  Central 
Square,  Cambridge,  on  Prospect  St.  to  Webster  Ave.,  and  then 
left  over  R.R.  bridge  and  through  Union  Square,  Somerville 
(4.0).  Here  bear  right  on  Walnut  St.,  over  the  hill  and  across 
Broadway,  turning  right  and  then  left  to  the  end  of  the  park 
on  the  left.  There  turning  left  on  Mystic  Ave.,  continue  to 
the  car  line  and  follow  it  into  Medford  Square. 

Note.  Another  route  to  Winchester  may  be  taken  by  turn- 
ing right  into  Harvard  St.  from  Prospect  St.,  thence  to  Har- 
vard Square.  Right  with  car  tracks,  and  straight  up  Massa- 
chusetts Ave.  Turn  right  on  Chester  St.  and,  meeting  car 
tracks,  bear  left  to  Davis  Square.  Turn  right,  crossing  R.R., 
to  boulevard,  leaving  Tufts  College  on  right.  At  pumping 
station  in  fork,  bear  left  past  Mystic  Lakes  to  Winchester. 

7.0    MEDFORD.    Pop  23,150  (1910),  30,509  (1915).     Middlesex  Co. 

Settled  1829.  Mfg.  felt,  carriages,  gold  leaf,  and  leather. 
The  old  town  is  now  a  mere  Boston  suburb,  and  though  the 
business  center  is  not  wholly  prepossessing  there  are  some  fine 
old  estates  on  the  borders  of  the  Fells  (p  480).  In  the  old 
days  shipping  and  rum  distilling  brought  it  prosperity.  In 
fact,  rum  made  the  name  of  Medford  famous.  The  old  Law- 
rence distilleries,  which  up  to  1905  used  to  exhale  such  a  rich 
odor  of  rum  and  molasses,  are  on  a  side  street  near  the  square. 
The  Royall  House,  to  the  left  on  Main  St.,  when  built  in  1737 
was  "the  grandest  in  North  America."  It  is  a  fine  old  ex- 
ample of  Colonial  architecture  well  kept  up,  and  may  be  visited 
in  the  afternoon,  or  at  other  times  by  appointment  with  the 
curator  (fee).  The  slave  quarters  are  an  interesting  reminder 
of  old  slavery  days  in  an  abolition  State.  Isaac  Royall  was  a 

(600) 


R.  34.     BOSTON   TO  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  6ci 

West  India  merchant  who  came  to  Boston  bringing  his  family 
and  twenty  slaves.  One  of  his  daughters  married  Colonel 
Henry  Vassal  of  Cambridge.  His  son,  Isaac,  who  inherited 
the  property,  favored  the  Colonists,  but  feared  the  King,  and 
so  fled  to  England. 

On  Ship  St.  toward  East  Medford  is  the  so-called  Craddock 
house,  built  in  1638,  and  the  oldest  building  extant  in  New 
England.  The  Medford  Historical  Society  has  recently  shown 
that  the  Craddock  house  was  near  Medford  Square. 

Matthew  Craddock,  a  wealthy  London  merchant  and  ship-owner, 
invested  heavily  in  the  Massachusetts  Company,  and  was  elected  its 
first  Governor  in  1628.  He  was  a  member  of  the  Long  Parliament 
in  England,  representing  the  City  of  London.  His  affairs  kept  him 
so  busy  that  though  Governor  of  the  Massachusetts  Company  he 
never  found  time  to  visit  the  country  in  which  he  had  so  large  a  stake. 
But  he  must  have  anticipated  coming,  for  he  built  two  other  mansions, 
one  at  Marblehead,  the  other  at  Ipswich.  With  so  many  affairs  some 
were  bound  to  run  at  loose  ends.  He  complained  bitterly  of  his 
agents  in  America:  "  Jno  Joliff  writes  me  the  manner  of  Mr.  Mayheue's 
accounts  is,  that  what  is  not  set  down  is  spent;  most  extremely  I  am 
abused.  My  servants  write  they  drink  nothing  but  water  and  I  have 
in  an  account  lately  sent  me  Red  Wyne,  Sack,  &  Aqua  Vita?  in  one 
year  about  300  gallons,  besides  other  intolerable  abuses,  10  dollars  for 
tobacco,  etc." 

Wood,  in  his  "New  England  Prospect,"  printed  in  London  in  1639, 
writes  of  Medford:  "Mystic  is  seated  by  the  water  side  very  pleas- 
antly. .  .  .  On  the  west  side  of  the  river,  the  Governor  hath  a  farm, 
where  he  keeps  most  of  his  cattle.  On  the  east  side  is  Mr.  Craddock's 
plantation  where  he  hath  impaled  a  part,  where  he  keeps  his  cattle, 
till  he  can  store  it  with  deer.  Here,  likewise,  he  is  at  charges  of  build- 
ing ships.  Last  year  one  was  upon  the  stocks  of  an  hundred  tunne 
that  being  finished  they  are  to  build  one  of  twice  her  burthen!" 

Tufts  College,  on  the  boundary  line  of  Somerville  and  Med- 
ford, was  founded  in  1852,  by  Hosea  Ballou,  the  great  Uni- 
versalist.  Charles  Tufts,  the  farmer  whose  name  it  perpet- 
uates, gave  the  land  on  which  it  stands. 

The  tower  of  the  Goddard  Chapel,  the  most  beautiful  build- 
ing, can  be  seen,  even  before  leaving  Somerville,  from  the 
northern  slopes  of  Winter  Hill.  The  same  is  true  of  the  wire- 
less tower,  owned  by  Tufts  graduates  and  built,  upon  college 
land,  which,  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  rises  on  the  northern 
side.  West  of  the  Goddard  Chapel  is  Ballou  Hall,  the  oldest 
building.  Next  is  the  Barnum  Museum  of  Natural  History, 
the  gift  of  P.  T.  Barnum,  containing  the  stuffed  skin  of  Jumbo, 
the  elephant  made  famous  by  Barnum  and  the  Tufts  College 
Glee  Club.  The  old  Medford  Reservoir  is  just  beyond,  one 
of  the  fine  viewpoints  of  the  region,  and  appreciated  as  a 
ramble  by  collegians  and  citizens  alike.  Standing  out  promi- 
nently at  the  east  of  the  group  of  buildings  is  the  Eaton 
Memorial  Library,  erected  by  Mrs.  Andrew  Carnegie  in  memory 
of  her  pastor. 


602  MEDFORD— TEWKSBURY 

On  the  old  road  to  Winchester  is  the  old  Brooks  farm;  the 
handsome  Colonial  mansion  has  recently  been  torn  down  and 
the  farm  cut  up  into  house  lots.  A  century  ago  the  Brooks 
were  notable.  Dr.  John  was  a  Governor  of  the  State  from 
1816  to  1823  and  Peter  was  New  England's  first  millionaire. 

From  Medford  Square  we  turn  left  along  the  Metropolitan 
Park  Boulevard,  which  runs  beside  the  Mystic  river  and  the 
beautiful  Mystic  Lakes. 

Across  the  lake  on  the  hilltop  where  the  Myopia  Club  was 
born  stand  out  against  the  sky  line  the  residences  of  the 
Honorables  Samuel  W.  McCall,  Governor  of  the  Common- 
wealth, Samuel  Elder,  and  Samuel  Petts,  the  liquor  dealer, 
which  resulted  in  this  region  being  known  as  Sam's  Hill. 
Further  to  the  north  at  the  corner  of  Church  and  Cambridge 
Sts.  is  the  mansion  of  Oren  Cheney  Sanborn  of  the  Chase  & 
Sanborn  Coffee  firm.  Behind  it  rise  Andrews  Hill  and  Pisgah 
Mountain  and  further  back  Zion  Hill  (400  ft).  Beyond  the 
Wedgemere  Station  is  the  estate  of  the  late  Edwin  Ginn, 
founder  of  the  publishing  house  of  Ginn  &  Co.,  and  of  the 
million-dollar  peace  foundation  that  bears  his  name.  The 
boulevard  follows  the  Aberjona  river  to  the  center  of 

10.0  WINCHESTER.  Alt  22  ft.  Pop  9309  (1910),  10,005  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1640.  Mfg.  leather,  soda  fountains, 
and  felt. 

Winchester  occupies  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  natural 
situation  of  any  of  Boston's  suburbs.  From  the  Aberjona 
valley  the  streets  and  houses  rise  eastward  to  the  rocky  levels 
of  the  Middlesex  Fells.  Through  the  center  of  the  town  along 
the  course  of  the  river  is  a  parkway  and  playground  where 
formerly  stood  unsightly  tanneries.  The  clock  tower  on  the 
town  hall  gives  the  various  names  with  dates  which  the  town 
has  successively  borne. 

The  route  crosses  R.R.  through  the  Square  and  follows  the 
trolley  to  the  right  to 

123     WOBURN.    Alt 98  ft.    Pop  15,308  (1910),  16,410  (1915).     Mid- 
dlesex Co.     Settled  1641.    Mfg.  leather,  chemicals,  leather- 
working  machinery,  shoes,  glue,  and  cotton  goods. 
Woburn,   a  town  of  historic  interest,   has  because  of  the 
nature  of  its  modern  industries  become  a  district  of  unpleasant 
factories  and  has  drawn  a  large  foreign  population.     Its  chemi- 
cal plants  and  leather  tanneries  have  profited  by  the  boom  in 
war  materials,  but  at  the  same  time  have  been  endangered  by 
incendiary  plots  and  explosions.     Many  of  the  workmen  are 
Greeks  and  Turks;    at  the  outbreak  of  the  war  they  came  to 
blows  and  the  Turks  were  driven  out.     Unsavory  civic  condi- 
tions in  Woburn  have  resulted  in  high  tax  rates  and  dubious 
municipal  politics. 


R.  34.     BOSTON   TO   THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  603 

On  Elm  St.  not  far  from  the  corner  of  Main,  standing  on  a 
rise  of  ground  a  little  back  from  the  road  is  a  large  two-story, 
gambrel-roofed  house.  Here  under  his  grandfather's  roof  was 
born  in  1753  Benjamin  Thompson,  later  Count  Rumford. 

At  thirteen  he  was  apprenticed  to  a  local  mechanic  and  learned  to 
make  surgical  instruments,  very  good  ones,  too,  it  is  said.  Later, 
while  apprenticed  to  a  Salem  shop-keeper,  he  invented  a  machine  and 
walked  twenty  miles  to  show  it  to  his  old  friend,  Loammi  Baldwin,  at 
Woburn.  Driven  out  of  America  by  his  unappreciative  and  intol- 
erant countrymen  he  achieved  fame  and  fortune  in  Europe  and  became 
one  of  the  world's  great  scientists,  the  confidant  and  lieutenant-general 
of  the  King  of  Bavaria,  and  a  benefactor  of  humanity.  In  Munich  a 
bronze  statue  and  a  broad  street  commemorate  him.  A  duplicate  of 
the  German  statue  stands  on  the  grounds  of  the  Woburn  Public  Library, 
but  his  chief  memorials  are  established  by  himself, — the  Rumford 
professorship  at  Harvard,  and  his  great  collection  of  scientific  appara- 
tus also  bequeathed  to  that  college.  See  Concord,  N.H.  (p  609). 

On  the  road  between  the  city  and  North  Woburn  is  the  home 
of  Loammi  Baldwin,  which  may  be  easily  distinguished  by  the 
large  house  with  pillars  on  each  of  its  corners.  Here  he  intro- 
duced the  apple  which  bears  his  name.  His  son  Loammi, 
'Father  of  Civil  Engineering  in  America,'  was  the  engineer  of 
the  great  government  docks  at  Charlestown  and  Newport. 

The  town  was  settled  as  Charlestown- Village.  One  of  its  founders, 
Thomas  Graves,  was  made  a  rear-admiral  by  Oliver  Cromwell  and  in 
1643  commanded  the  "Tryal,"  the  first  ship  built  in  Boston.  Edward 
Johnson,  another  founder,  published  one  of  the  earliest  historical  ac- 
counts of  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony  under  the  title  "The  Wonder- 
Working  Providence  of  Zion's  Savior."  The  tanning  industry  was 
established  by  Abijah  Thompson,  who  was  a  prime  mover  of  Woburn 
welfare  projects  in  the  antebellum  days.  The  burying  ground  on 
Park  St.  dates  from  1642  and  is  the  burial  place  of  ancestors  of  Presi- 
dents Pierce,  Garfield,  Cleveland,  and  Harrison. 

From  Woburn  the  route  runs  through  North  Woburn,  where 
it  meets  the  State  Road  with  blue  markers,  which  comes  in 
from  the  left  on  the  new  boulevard  (p  510),  From  this  point 
the  route  follows  the  blue  markers  through  Lowell  to  the  New 
Hampshire  line.  Beyond  North  Woburn  the  road  passes  Sil- 
ver Lake  (18.5)  and  crosses  the  Shawsheen  river  into 

22.5  TEWKSBURY.  Alt  115  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3750  (1910),  5265 
(1915).  Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1655.  Indian  name  Wame- 
sit.  Mfg.  chemicals. 

The  State  Infirmary,  an  institution  of  many  years'  standing, 
housing  from  2000  to  3000  inmates  and  employing  an  immense 
tract  of  land,  is  the  chief  feature  of  this  town.  On  the  wooded 
hill  north  of  the  village  is  the  handsome  residence  of  General 
Adelbert  Ames,  son-in-law  of  Gen.  B.  F.  Butler,  the  hero  of 
Fort  Fisher  in  the  Civil  War. 

Sections  of  the  old  Middlesex  Canal  are  still  to  be  seen  which  con- 
nected the  Merrimack  at  Lowell  with  the  Charles  river  at  Charlestown. 
It  was  built  by  Boston  capital  under  the  supervision  of  Colonel  Loammi 
Baldwin  and  opened  in  1803. 


604  TEWKSBURY— LOWELL 

D wight,  in  his  "Travels,"  says:  "On  this  part  of  our  road  is  crossed 
the  Middlesex  canal,  the  most  considerable  work  of  the  kind  in  the 
United  States.  Its  length  is  near  thirty  miles,  from  Charles  River  to 
the  Merrimack.  .  .  .  The  design  of  forming  this  canal  was  to  introduce 
from  the  countries  on  the  Merrimack  and  its  headwaters,  into  Boston, 
the  great  quantities  of  timber,  and  the  artificial  produce  which  they 
furnish.  The  canal  was  completed  in  1801,  and  has  ever  since  been 
in  operation.  It  is  doubted  whether  the  proprietors  will  very  soon 
obtain  the  interest  of  their  money:  although  every  friend  of  the  com- 
munity must  earnestly  wish  that  they  may  be  liberally  rewarded  for 
their  enterprise  and  public  spirit." 

On  the  hill  to  the  east  of  Lowell  is  the  beautiful  park  known 
as  Rogers  Fort  Hill  Park,  which  was  the  scene  of  early  Indian 
sorties  against  the  settlers  and  was  presented  to  the  city  by 
Miss  Elizabeth  Rogers,  founder  of  Rogers  Hall,  a  school  for 
girls,  which  faces  the  park  (p  800). 

The  route  follows  the  blue  markers  to  the  left,  over  the 
Concord  river  and  into  the  center  of 

27.5     LOWELL.     Alt  100  ft.    Pop  106,294   (1910),  107,978   (1915); 
25,000  French  Canadians,  10,000  Greeks,  and  5,000  Poles. 
One  of  the  shire  towns  of  Middlesex  Co.     Inc.  1826.     Mfg. 
cotton  goods,  foundry  and  machine  shop  products,  carpets, 
cartridges,    proprietary    medicines,    and    shoes.     Value    of 
Products    (1913),  $59,322,000;  Payroll,  $14,553,000. 
This  city,  once  called  the  'Manchester  of  America'  and  the 
'Spindle  City,'  is  one  of  the  great  manufacturing  cities  of  the 
world.     It  is  located  at  the  junction  of  the  Merrimack  and 
Concord  rivers  and  has  been  developed  in  connection  with  the 
magnificent  waterpower  of  the  Pawtucket  Falls  of  the  Merri- 
mack.    Today  there  are  six  and  a  half  miles  of  distributing 
canals,  which  carry  30,000  developed  horsepower  to  the  mills. 
More  cotton  goods  are  produced  than  in  any  other  city  on  the 
continent,   30,000   people   are   employed,   and   a  $40,000,000 
investment  is  carried  in  this  one  industry.     Enough  cloth  is 
produced  annually  to  go  seven  times  around  the  world.     The 
woolen  and  worsted  industry  represents  an  investment  of  over 
$5,000,000;    foundry  and  machine  shop  products,  $4,000,000; 
boots  and  shoes,  $1,000,000;  proprietary  medicines,  $1,000,000; 
and  other  industries,  $16,000,000. 

The  business  center  of  the  city  is  on  the  riverbank  and  the 
residential  section  on  the  hills  about  the  city.  On  the  south- 
erly side  in  Andover  St.  are  the  residence  and  spacious  grounds 
of  the  late  General  Benjamin  F.  Butler.  In  Monument 
Square,  at  the  easterly  end  of  Worthen  St.,  a  monument  marks 
the  graves  of  the  first  men  killed  in  the  Civil  War  at  the  Balti- 
more Riot,  April,  1861. 

The  house  in  "which  James  McNeil  Whistler  was  born,  243 
Worthen  St.,  is  now  preserved  by  the  Lowell  Art  Society  as  a 
Whistler  memorial.  Whistler  never  lived  here  except  as  an 


R.  34.     BOSTON   TO  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  605 

infant,  and  one  who  has  read  his  "Gentle  Art  of  Making  Ene- 
mies" can  well  imagine  with  what  satiric  comment  he  would 
greet  this  frank  attempt  of  Lowell  to  claim  his  fame.  The 
nucleus  of  a  permanent  collection  has  been  acquired.  David 
Neal  and  W.  L.  Metcalf  are  also  artists  of  Lowell  birth,  and 
W.  P.  Phelps,  now  painting  in  the  shadow  of  Mt.  Monadnock, 
had  a  studio  here  for  many  years. 

The  site  of  Lowell  was  until  1702  a  remote  and  uninhabited  portion 
of  the  insignificant  town  of  Chelmsford.  In  that  year  a  company  was 
formed  to  construct  a  canal  around  the  Pawtucket  Falls  at  this  point. 
In  1822  a  company  of  prominent  Bostonians  including  Lowells  and 
Jacksons  organized  a  Merrimack  Manufacturing  Company  and  erected 
a  factory  here.  The  town  was  named  in  1826  in  honor  of  Francis 
Cabot  Lowell,  whose  success  in  developing  the  power  loom  and  other 
cotton  machinery  had  made  profitable  the  establishment  of  the  mills. 

M.  Chevalier,  a  French  economic  authority,  visited  here  in  1843 
and  wrote:  "Unlike  the  cities  of  Europe,  it  is  neither  a  pious  founda- 
tion, a  refuge  of  the  persecuted,  nor  a  military  post.  It  is  a  specula- 
tion of  the  merchants  of  Boston.  The  same  spirit  of  enterprise  which 
last  year  suggested  to  them  to  send  a  cargo  of  ice  to  Calcutta  that 
Lord  William  Bentinck  and  the  Nabobs  of  the  India  Company  might 
drink  their  wine  cool  has  led  them  to  build  a  city,  wholly  at  their  ex- 
pense, for  the  purpose  of  manufacturing  printed  calicoes." 

From  1840  to  1845  the  "Lowell  Offering,"  a  monthly  publication, 
was  issued  by  the  mill  operatives,  who  at  that  time  were  New  England 
girls.  Harriet  Hanson  and  Lucy  Larcom  were  the  most  prominent 
contributors.  The  latter  worked  in  the  Lawrence  mill  and  dwelt  in 
one  of  the  operatives'  houses  of  that  plant,  which  still  stands.  Speak- 
ing of  this  paper  in  his  "American  Notes,"  Dickens  said,  "They  have 
got  up  among  themselves  a  periodical  called  the  'Lowell  Offering,' 
a  repository  of  original  articles,  written  exclusively  by  females  actively 
employed  in  the  mills." 

Numerous  oldtime  houses  can  be  picked  out  here  and  there 
in  the  city;  the  two  oldest  on  the  old  coach  road,  one  on  each 
side  of  the  river,  date  back  to  1686  or  thereabouts.  The  inev- 
itable inn  in  which  Washington  and  Lafayette  stopped  is  here 
tucked  away  in  Middlesex  Village  to  the  north  of  the  city. 

The  route  leaves  Lowell  by  following  Middlesex  St.  west- 
ward past  the  R.R.  station  and  across  the  tracks,  forking  left 
with  the  trolley  and  then  turning  left  into  Nichols  St.  Thence 
right,  into  Westford  St.,  and  a  mile  further  on,  left  into  Prince- 
ton St.,  at  the  end  of  which  bear  right,  into  the  State  Road,  and 
follow  the  blue  markers  into  NORTH  CHELMSFORD  (31.5). 
Many  Lowell  business  people  live  here,  and  there  are  numer- 
ous farms  which  supply  dairy  products  to  the  city.  The  route 
bears  right  with  the  trolley  along  the  Merrimack  river. 

The  homestead  of  the  Tyngs  is  on  the  left  of  the  highway 
a  mile  or  so  before  reaching  Tyngsboro.  This  old  house  was 
the  last  refuge  of  Wannalancet,  the  Indian  chief  whose  friend- 
liness kept  safe  the  little  band  of  pioneers  during  the  Indian 
wars,  but  even  his  power  was  insufficient  to  keep  the  settlers 


606        «  LOWELL— MANCHESTER 

from  the  necessity  of  a  haven  in  Boston  during  King  Philip's 
War.  Colonel  Tyng  remained,  however,  in  this  house;  it 
was  the  Colonial  outpost,  and  the  only  house  of  any  size 
between  Medford  and  Montreal  at  that  time. 

35.0     TYNGSBORO.     Alt  112  ft.     Pop  (twp)  829  (1910),  967  (1915). 

Middlesex  Co.  Inc.  1789.  Mfg.  lumber  products. 
The  first  white  settler  here,  one  Cromwell,  made  a  good  thing  of 
trading  with  the  Indians  until  they  discovered  that  in  buying  furs 
from  them  by  weight  he  cheated  them  by  surreptitiously  using  his  foot. 
In  righteous  indignation  at  such  dishonesty  they  burned  his  house  and 
drove  him  away.  The  place  bears  the  name  of  the  Tyng  family  be- 
cause a  Mrs.  Sarah  Winslow  (born  Tyng)  "agreed  to  fund  a  sum  of 
money  which  should  afford  the  annual  income  of  80  pounds  lawful 
money,  to  be  devoted  equally  to  support  a  Congregational  minister 
and  a  grammar  school." 

The  only  bridge  over  the  Merrimack  between  Lowell  and 
Nashua  is  at  Tyngsboro.  Not  far  above  the  village  we  pass 
the  Massachusetts-New  Hampshire  boundary  line;  from  here 
on  the  markers  on  the  poles  are  green  instead  of  blue. 

41.5    NASHUA.     Alt    125    ft.    Pop    (twp)    26,005.     Hillsboro    Co. 
Settled  1665.     Indian  name,  "land  between."     Mfg.  cotton 
goods,  cards,  glazed  paper,  steam  engines,  lumber  products, 
refrigerators  and  ice-cream  freezers,  brass  and   aluminum 
castings,  machinery,  spring  beds.     U.S.  fish  hatchery. 
This  is  an  important  manufacturing  city,  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Nashua  river  with  the  Merrimack.     The  civic  pride  of 
the  people  has  resulted  in  an  attractive  main  square  with 
some  handsome   buildings   and   fine   lawns   and   the   general 
absence  of  the  usual  'mill  town'  appearance,  although  there 
is  a  considerable  foreign  population.     In  addition  to  several 
cotton  mills,  Nashua  is  the  site  of  the  White  Mountain  Freezer 
Company,  whose  product  is  nationally  known,  and  of  the  Maine 
Manufacturing    Company,    makers  of   the  White   Mountain 
refrigerators.     There  are  some  beautiful  residences  and  even  the 
homes  of  the  mill  hands  are  neat  and  attractive.     During  the 
winter  of  1915-16  a  six  months'  strike  tied  up  the  mills  and 
resulted  in  violence  and  death.     Special  police  and  four  com- 
panies of  militia  were  on  guard  for  months. 

Route  40,  with  brown  markers,  to  Keene  and  the  Connecti- 
cut valley  forks  to  the  left  here. 

Like  many  towns  of  the  State,  fishing  was  the  principal  industry 
until  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century.  In  1822  a  manufacturing 
company  was  organized  to  capitalize  the  magnificent  waterpowers 
of  the  Nashua  river  and  Salmon  Brook,  and  in  1825  the  first  cotton 
mill  was  erected.  In  1673  the  settlement  was  incorporated  by  Mas- 
sachusetts as  Dunstable,  but  after  the  settlement  of  the  boundary  dis- 
pute in  1741  it  fell  to  New  Hampshire. 

Leaving  the  Soldiers'  Monument  on  the  left,  the  route  fol- 
lows the  green  markers  along  the  west  bank  of  the  river  through 


R.  34.     BOSTON   TO  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  607 

the  little  village  of  Merrimack  (51.0).  At  the  end  of  Second  St., 
West  Manchester  (58.5),  turn  right  into  Granite  St.,  crossing 
the  river  and  passing  the  R.R.  station  on  the  right.  Bear  left 
into  Elm  St.,  to  the  center  of  the  city. 

59.5     MANCHESTER.     Alt    173    ft.    Pop    70,063;  24,257    foreign- 
born,  37,530  of  foreign  parentage.     Shire  town  of  Hillsboro 
Co.     Settled  1722.    Indian  name  Amoskeag.     Mfg.  cotton 
goods,    worsted,    shoes,   locomotives,    fire   engines,  paper, 
linen,  soap,  leather,  edged  tools,  brushes  and  brooms,  car- 
riages, bobbins,  saws,  bricks,  and  foundry  products. 
The  largest  cotton  mill  in  the  world,  driven  by  the  Amoskeag 
Falls,  which  have  a  drop  of  fifty-five  feet,  is  located  here. 
This  is  the  largest  and  most 
important  manufacturing  city 
in  the  State.     The  textile  mills 
employ  over  19, coo  hands,  and 
represent  a  $25,000,000  invest- 
ment.    It  is  the  fifth  city  in 
the  United  States  in  the  cotton 
goods  industry  and  the  ninth 
in  the  boot  and  shoe,  in  which 
latter  its   annual  output  ex- 
ceeds $20,000,000.     A  feature 
of  the  city  is  the  model  homes 
and  corporation   boarding 
houses  for  the  mill  operatives. 
The  population,  of. course,  is 
cosmopolitan,  with  the  French 
Canadian,  Irish, Greek,  Polish, 
and  German  nationalities  pre- 
dominating in  the  large  foreign 
element. 

Among  the  conspicuous  pub- 
lic buildings  are  the  new  Car- 
penter Memorial  Library, 
erected  in  memory  of  Mrs. 

Carpenter  at  a  cost  of  nearly  THE  STARK  MONUMENT 

half  a  million,  and  the  Man- 
chester Institute  of  Arts  and  Science,  built  through  the  generosity 
of  Mrs.  L.  Melville  French.  In  the  park  on  the  bank  of  the 
Merrimack  is  a  monument  to  that  impetuous  native,  General 
John  Stark,  who  was  a  hero  of  Bunker  Hill,  Bennington,  and 
Trenton.  In  early  life  he  was  captured  by  the  Indians,  who 
adopted  him  and  carried  him  to  Lake  Memphremagog.  He 
lived  to  the  age  of  ninety-four  (1728-1822).  Nearby  was  the 
home  of  the  Hon.  Samuel  Blodgett,  the  pioneer  of  progress  in 
Northern  New  England,  and  the  builder  of  Blodgett's  canal 


608  MANCHESTER— CONCORD 

around  the  falls,  by  which  the  Merrimack  was  opened  to  river 
traffic  as  far  north  as  Concord  at  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth 
century.  The  falls  of  Amoskeag  were  designated  by  the  early 
comers  as  "a  hideous  waterfall."  Less  than  five  miles  east  of 
the  City  Hall  lies  that  beautiful  sheet  of  water  which  in  former 
years  was  a  favorite  resort  of  the  red  men,  Lake  Massabesic. 
It  has  often  been  proposed  to  make  Manchester  a  seaport  like 
its  English  namesake  by  driving  a  ship-canal  through  the  lake 
and  the  Durham  lowlands  to  Great  Bay.  Route  39  enters  here 
from  Portsmouth. 

In  1649  the  Apostle  Eliot  preached  to  the  Indians  at  their  much 
frequented  fishing  place,  the  Amoskeag  Falls.  In  1722  the  settlement 
was  founded  at  Goffe's  Falls,  five  miles  below,  from  which  Manchester 
was  first  colonized.  In  1735  a  three-mile  tract  was  given  by  Mas- 
sachusetts to  "Tyng's  Snow-Shoe  Scouts,"  a  group  of  frontiersmen. 
These  promptly  started  a  feud  with  the  earlier  squatters,  who  were 
eventually  victorious  in  the  courts.  From  the  pioneer  homes  also 
went  forth  the  leaders  of  that  redoubtable  band  of  Indian  scouts,  the 
Rogers  Rangers,  who  made  it  possible  for  the  British  troops  to  stem 
the  French  and  Indian  invasion  of  New  England  in  the  days  of  border 
warfare.  The  name  of  the  locality  varied  until  1910,  when  it  was 
prophetically  named  for  the  great  English  manufacturing  city  on  the 
assumption  that  it  would  become  'The  Manchester  of  America.' 

The  route  leaves  Manchester  by  Webster  Ave.,  following  the 
trolley  to  the  State  Road,  where  the  green  markers  indicate 
the  route  through  the  wayside  village  of  Suncook  (70.5). 
Here  a  branch  of  Route  39,  from  Portsmouth,  enters  on  the 
right.  Continuing  straight  ahead  the  road  reaches  the  little 
town  of  Pembroke  (72.0). 

78.0     CONCORD.     Alt    244    ft.     Pop    21,497.     State     Capital    and 

County-seat  of  Merrimack  Co.     Settled  1725.     Mfg.    cotton 

goods,   woolens,  bathroom  furniture,   carriages,   machinery, 

belting,  harness,  pianos,  axles,  flour,   electrical  apparatus, 

silverware,  and  automobile  fire   engines;    printing. 

The  State  House  and  other  public  buildings  give  something 

of  an  atmosphere  of  dignity  to  this  interesting  old  town.     In 

the  State  House  grounds  are  statues  of  distinguished  citizens 

of  the  State,  Franklin  Pierce,  the  fourteenth  President  of  the 

Republic,  General  John  Stark,  Daniel  Webster,  and  John  P. 

Hale.     The  latter,  Free  Soil  Party  nominee  for  President  in 

1852,  had  been  counsel  in  the  famous  case  of  Anthony  Burns, 

the  fugitive  slave  arrested  in  Boston  and  returned  to  his  master. 

Beside  the  Capitol  on  the  rather  unusual  municipal  square 

are  the  Post  Office,  the  City  Hall,  the  State  Library,  and  the 

building  of  the  New  Hampshire  Historical  Society,  this  latter 

designed  by  Guy  Lowell  and  presented  by  Mr.  Edward  Tuck. 

On  the  State  St.  side  of  the  Capitol  is  the  statue  by  French  of 

Commodore  George  H.  Perkins,  "the  bravest  man  that  ever 

trod  the  deck  of  a  ship,"  according  to  Admiral  Farragut. 


R.  34.     BOSTON   TO   THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  609 

The  prosaic-looking  Eagle  Hotel  is  really  a  place  of  both 
historic  and  literary  interest.  Readers  of  Winston  Churchill's 
"Coniston"  and  "Mr.  Crewe's  Career"  know  to  how  great 
an  extent  the  "Pelican  Hotel"  was  the  actual  capitol.  In  the 
"Throne  room,"  now  No.  i,  Ruel  Durkee,  the  oldtime  boss, 
said  to  be  the  "  Jethro  Bass"  of  " Coniston,"  here  marshaled  his 
cohorts,  instructed  his  lieutenants,  and  heard  suppliants  for 
favors.  Here,  too,  in  the  same  room  Mr.  Churchill,  when  a 
candidate  for  Governor,  on  the  eve  of  his  convention  held  a 
reception.  Mr.  H.  Thaw  also,  during  his  considerable  sojourn 
of  1914-15,  kept  the  hotel  in  the  front  page  headlines. 

The  old  home  of  President  Pierce  is  at  52  So.  Main  St.,  where 
he  died  in  1869.  A  stone  on  the  grounds  marks  the  site  of  an 
old  garrison  house  built  as  a  defense  against  the  Indians.  The 
beautiful  estate  of  the  late  Mary  Baker  Eddy,  founder  of  Chris- 
tian Science,  is  on  Pleasant  St.,  and  opposite  is  a  monument 
on  the  site  of  an  Indian  massacre  which  took  place  in  1746. 
Half  a  mile  beyond  is  St.  Paul's,  an  Episcopal  preparatory 
school  which  draws  boys  from  all  parts  of  the  country. 

Among  Concord's  interesting  old  houses  is  the  Stone  resi- 
dence on  South  St.,  formerly  the  Kent  house,  famous  for  its 
hospitality.  There  Lafayette  was  a  guest,  also  Daniel  Webster, 
Ralph  Waldo  Emerson,  and  many  other  distinguished  men, 
and  it  was  the  scene  of  Mr.  Emerson's  marriage.  At  the  end 
of  North  Main  St.  stands  the  Walker  homestead.  Built  in 
haste  by  Timothy  Walker,  the  first  minister  of  the  town,  in  1730, 
it  served  not  only  as  a  parsonage,  but  also  as  a  garrison.  The 
property  is  still  in  the  possession  of  the  Walker  family. 

Among  the  famous  residents  of  Concord  are  or  have  been 
George  A.  Pillsbury,  ex-mayor,  who  moved  to  Minneapolis 
and  became  mayor  of  that  city,  best  known  as  the  'flour  king'; 
Wm.  E.  Chandler,  former  U.S.  Senator  and  Secretary  of  the 
Navy  in  President  Arthur's  Cabinet;  the  Hon.  George  H. 
Moses,  Minister  to  Greece,  and  the  present  Senators  Jacob 
H.  Gallinger  and  Henry  F.  Hollis.  The  late  F.  W.  Rollins 
was  born  at  Concord.  As  Governor  of  the  State  he  organized 
Old  Home  Week,  an  idea  which  brought  thousands  of  visitors 
and  tens  of  thousands  of  dollars  to  New  Hampshire.  Opposite 
the  station  is  the  Rumford  Press,  nationally  known  as  printers 
of  scientific  and  collegiate  publications. 

It  was  here  that  Count  Rumford  (p  603)  met  the  widow  of  Colonel 
Benjamin  Rolfe,  who,  although  ten  years  his  senior,  shortly  afterward 
became  his  wife.  This  was  the  real  start  of  his  career,  for  the  good 
lady  took  him  to  Boston,  bought  him  many  fine  clothes,  and  intro- 
duced him  to  the  influential  people  of  the  towp.  These  were  the  days 
when  the  Colonies  were  beginning  to  feel  restless  and  dissatisfied  with 
the  mother  country,  and  the  man  who  was  not  openly  enthusiastic 


6io  CONCORD— FRANKLIN 


about  their  cause  was  looked  upon  with  suspicion.  Rumford  soon 
found  himself  in  this  class,  and  was  arrested  but  released  again  as 
nothing  was  proved  against  him.  The  shadow  did  not  leave  him, 
however,  and  he  finally  petitioned  the  General  Court  to  hear  the  charge 
against  him,  but  that  august  body  ignored  him.  After  a  few  listless 
efforts  to  clear  his  name  he  disappeared  and  was  not  heard  from  again 
until  he  was  with  the  enemy  in  Boston.  He  was  the  official  bearer 
of  the  news  from  General  Howe  to  Lord  Germaine  concerning  the 
evacuation  of  Boston.  His  scientific  attainments  gained  him  wide 
repute  in  Europe  and  in  America. 

Concord,  formerly  Rumford,  suffered  greatly  during  the  French 
and  Indian  War,  and  was  the  scene  of  a  brutal  massacre  in  1746.  For 
a  long  time  Rumford  was  the  most  flourishing  place  between  the 
Massachusetts  line  and  Canada.  An  involved  lawsuit  known  as  the 
Bow  controversy  vexed  the  inhabitants  for  many  years  and  was 
decided  by  King  George  III  and  the  Privy  Council  in  1762  in  favor 
of  Rumford.  The  name  Concord  was  adopted  in  1765. 

Louis  Downing,  a  carriage  builder,  came  to  Concord  in  1815.  Twelve 
years  later  he  brought  forth  the  Concord  coach,  long  the  standard 
stage  coach  of  the  country.  The  body  was  carried  on  great  leather 
straps,  called  thorough-braces,  and  the  top  was  capable  of  carrying 
a  number  of  passengers.  There  was  also  a  boot  where  mails  and 
baggage  were  carried.  It  was  this  type  of  coach  that  in  '49  carried  men 
and  gold  across  the  Western  plains  and  mountains  to  and  from  Cali- 
fornia— the  famous  Wells-Fargo  coach. 

Note.  Route  12  (p  380)  from  Worcester,  Fitchburg,  and 
Peterboro,  enters  Concord  on  Warren  St.  Claremont  and 
Lake  Sunapee  are  reached  by  following  this  route  to  Hopkin- 
ton  and  then  forking  right,  through  Contoocook  (10.0),  Warner 
(17.8),  Bradford  (27.0),  and  Newbury  (33.0).  At  the  fork 
(40.0)  the  route  turns  right,  to  Sunapee  (43.5),  joining  Route  43. 

Starting  in  front  of  the  Capitol,  Main  and  North  Sts.,  follow 
the  car  tracks  left  on  Fiske  St.,  and  pass  through  West  Concord 
(80.0).  The  route  follows  the  green  markers  through  Pena- 
cook  (84.0),  a  part  of  Concord.  The  statue  here  was  erected 
to  Hannah  Dustin,  who,  with  a  small  boy  and  another  woman, 
tomahawked  ten  of  her  Indian  captors  and  escaped.  For  this 
feat  the  General  Court  awarded  her  fifty  pounds. 

Cotton  Mather  vividly  describes  the  episode:  "In  March  1697,  the 
savages  made  a  descent  upon  the  outskirts  of  Haverhill.  In  this  broil 
one  Hannah  Dustin  having  lain  in  about  a  week  ...  a  body  of  Indians 
drew  near  unto  the  house  where  she  lay,  with  designs  to  carry  out 
their  bloody  devastations.  E'er  she  could  get  up,  the  fierce  Indians 
were  got  so  near,  that  utterly  despairing  to  do  her  any  service,  her 
husband  ran  out  after  his  children  .  .  .  leaving  the  rest  under  the  care 
of  divine  Providence.  .  .  .  Those  furious  tawnies  coming  into  the  house, 
bid  poor  Dustin  to  rise  immediately.  Full  of  astonishment  she  did 
so.  ...  Dustin  and  her  nurse  notwithstanding  her  present  condition 
travelled  .  .  .  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  within  a  few  days  ensuing, 
without  any  sensible  damage  in  their  health.  .  .  .  But  on  April  30, 
while  they  were  yet,  it  may  be,  an  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the 
Indian  town,  a  little  before  break  of  day,  when  the  whole  crew  was  in 
a  dead  sleep,  (Reader,  see  if  it  prove  not  so),  one  of  these  women  took 
up  a  resolution  to  imitate  the  action  of  Jael  upon  Sisera;  and  being 


R.    34      BOSTON   TO   THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  6ll 


where  she  had  not  her  own  life  secured  unto  her,  she  thought  she  was 
not  forbidden  by  any  law  to  take  away  the  life  of  the  murderers  by 
whom  her  child  had  been  butchered.  She  hardened  the  nurse  and  the 
youth  to  assist  her  in  this  enterprise;  and  all  furnishing  themselves 
with  hatchets  for  this  purpose,  they  struck  such  home-blows  upon 
the  heads  of  their  oppressors,  that  ere  they  could  any  of  them  struggle 
into  effectual  resistance,  at  the  feet  of  these  poor  prisoners  they  bowed, 
they  fell,  they  lay  down;  at  their  feet  they  bowed,  they  fell  where 
they  bowed,  there  they  fell  down  dead." 

87.0  BOSCAWEN.  Alt  268  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1240.  Merrimack  Co. 
Mfg.  woolens,  axles,  twine,  saws,  and  flour;  grain. 

On  the  right  a  stone  marks  the  site  of  an  old  log  fort  which 
was  100  feet  square.  A  little  further  on,  the  site  of  General 
John  A.  Dix's  birthplace  is  marked  by  a  tablet. 

Born  in  1798  at  the  age  of  fourteen  he  fought  in  the  War  of  1812 
and  at  sixteen  was  a  lieutenant.  Later  he  became  a  lawyer,  served 
as  postmaster  of  New  York,  and  was  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  in 
President  Buchanan's  Cabinet.  He  almost  upset  President  Bu- 
chanan's policy  of  'watchful  waiting'  by  sending  the  famous  message 
to  New  Orleans,  "If  any  one  attempts  to  haul  down  the  American  flag, 
shoot  him  on  the  spot."  He  was  the  first  president  of  the  Union  Pacific 
R.R.,  Minister  to  France,  and  Governor  of  New  York.  His  son  was 
the  late  Rev.  Morgan  Dix  of  Trinity  Church,  New  York. 

Another  stone  near  here  marks  the  location  of  Daniel  Web- 
ster's first  law  office,  of  which  he  said:  "I  opened  a  law  office 
in  a  red  store,  with  stairs  upon  the  outside,  for  which  I  paid 
a  rent  of  about  $15.00  a  year.  I  lived  at  home  and  walked  to 
and  from  the  office  at  morning  and  night.  My  fees  the  first 
year  were  not  sufficient  to  pay  the  rent." 

At  Webster  Place  Station,  just  before  entering  Franklin, 
is  a  State  school  and  home  for  orphans.  One  of  the  houses  of 
the  home  is  known  as  Elm  Farm,  which  was  the  home  of  the 
great  Daniel  until  his  removal  to  Portsmouth. 

Following  the  green  markers,  the  route  continues  parallel 
to  the  Merrimack,  passing  under  R.R.  bridge  into 

96.0  FRANKLIN.  Alt  354  ft.  Pop  (twp)  6132.  Merrimack  Co. 
Mfg.  flannel,  pulp,  paper,  hosiery,  knitting  machines,  needles, 
hack  and  band  saws,  foundry  products,  sashes  and  blinds. 

This  is  one  of  the  many  towns  in  the  United  States  named 
for  Benjamin  Franklin.  It  lies  at  the  junction  of  the  Pem- 
igewasset  and  Winnepesaukee  rivers,  which  here  form  the 
Merrimack.  Daniel  Webster  was  born  on  a  farm  now  in 
this  township,  but  then  in  Salisbury,  which  Daniel  afterward 
said  was  "nearer  the  North  Star  than  any  of  the  other  New 
England  settlements."  His  father  was  a  prominent  citizen 
and  possessed  much  of  the  talent  which  his  son  afterward 
inherited.  The  farm  was  often  visited  by  friendly  Indians  of 
whom  Webster  said,  "My  mother  was  constantly  visited  by 
Indians  who  had  never  before  gone  to  a  white  man's  house 
except  to  kill  its  inhabitants."  Route  48  forks  left  here. 


6l2  FRANKLIN— LACONT  A 


In  a  speech  delivered  before  a  great  assembly  at  Saratoga  in  1840 
Webster  said  of  his  birthplace:  "It  did  not  happen  to  me  to  be  born 
in  a  log  cabin;  but  my  elder  brothers  and  sisters  were  born  in  a  log 
cabin,  raised  amid  the  snowdrifts  of  New  Hampshire,  at  a  period  so 
early  that,  when  the  smoke  first  rose  from  its  rude  chimney,  and 
curled  over  the  frozen  hills,  there  was  no  similar  evidence  of  a  white 
man's  habitation  between  it  and  the  settlements  on  the  rivers  of 
Canada.  ...  I  make  to  it  an  annual  visit.  I  carry  my  children  to  it 
to  teach  them  the  hardships  endured  by  the  generations  which  have 
gone  before  them." 

Note.  Lake  Sunapee  and  Claremont  are  reached  bv  forking 
left  under  R.R.  from  Main  St.  and  passing  through  East  An- 
dover  (6.0),  Andover  (10.5),  and  Cilleyville  (13.0).  Here  the 
road  joins  Route  43. 

The  old  covered  bridge  which  we  now  cross,  built  in  1802, 
was  originally  a  toll  bridge.  The  route  follows  the  green 
markers  up  a  hill  at  the  top  of  which  is  a  tablet  calling  attention 
to  a  stone  mortar,  employed  by  the  early  settlers  and  the 
Abenaki  Indians  for  grinding  corn.  This  mortar,  which  is 
worth  seeing,  is  in  a  boulder,  or  ledge,  back  of  the  tablet. 

100.0  TILTON.  Alt  453  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1866.  Belknap  Co.  Settled 
1768.  Mfg.  hosiery,  ladies'  wrappers,  endless  belts,  optical 
goods,  and  woolens. 

The  large  number  of  monuments  of  Indians  and  various 
classical  reproductions  is  the  first  thing  that  strikes  the  atten- 
tion of  the  tourist.  Tilton  Seminary  is  on  a  hill  just  above 
the  town  at  the  left.  Tilton  Memorial  Arch,  a  CODV  of  the 
Arch  of  Titus  in  Rome,  was  erected  on  the  hill  as  a  tribute  to 
the  Tilton  family  by  Hon.  Charles  E.  Tilton  in  1883. 

As  we  continue  along  the  State  Road,  with  the  green  mark- 
ers, the  Belknap  Mountains  loom  in  front  a  little  to  the  right. 
The  route  crosses  a  narrow  part  of  Winnisquam,  one  of  the 
chain  of  lakes  known  as  Winnepesaukee  River.  Beyond  the 
lake  are  Red  Hill  and  the  mountains  of  the  Sandwich  range. 
Over  Mt.  Israel  on  the  left  of  Red  Hill  are  Sandwich  Dome 
and  Tri-Pyramid,  with  its  side  scarred  bv  a  double  slide. 
Over  Red  Hill  we  see  Mt.  Whiteface  and  Passaconaway,  and 
further  to  the  right  Toad  Back,  or  Paugus,  and  Chocorua. 

109.5  LACONIA.  Alt  507  ft.  Pop  10,183.  County-seat  of  Bel- 
knap Co.  Mfg.  hosiery,  knit  goods,  yarn,  knitting  machin- 
ery, needles,  boats,  gas  and  gasoline  engines,  freight,  pas- 
senger, and  electric  cars. 

This  town  has  been  dubbed  'The  Gateway  to  Vacation 
Land,'  and  is  a  commercial  and  tourist  center.  The  names 
Laconia  and  Franconia  were  first  applied  in  America  to  the 
region  granted  to  Ferdinando  Gorges  and  John  Mason.  The 
region  was  so  named  because  of  its  similitude  to  a  district  in 
Germany.  The  Cunard  Line  steamers  which  carry  these 


R.  34.     BOSTON   TO   THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  613 

names  receive  them  from  the  New  England  towns.  The  car 
works  have  had  a  war-order  boom  in  munitions,  and  the  knit- 
ting mills  are  relieved  at  the  disappearance  from  the  market 
of  their  worst  competitors,  German-made  goods. 

The  route  continues  through  LAKEPORT  (m.o),  formerly 
called  Lake  Village,  and  THE  WEIRS  (115.5),  ports  of  the  city, 
which  form  with  their  principal  a  popular  summer  center. 
THE  WEIRS  is  important  only  in  summer,  when  it  is  host  to 
over  one  hundred  thousand  people.  It  is  the  scene  of  several 
conventions,  and  here  are  the  camp  grounds  of  the  New  Hamp- 
shire Veterans,  where  their  annual  encampment  is  held;  also 
the  grounds  of  the  Winnepesaukee  Camp-meeting  Association, 
where  meetings  of  the  New  Hampshire  Methodist  Conference 
are  held  for  a  week  annually.  Endicott  Rock,  which  the  road 
passes  on  the  left,  covered  by  a  granite  canopy,  is  preserved  in 
honor  of  Governor  Endicott,  whose  surveyors  marked  it  in 
1652  as  the  source  of  the  Merrimack  river,  which  was  the 
northern  boCind  of  the  Massachusetts  Colony.  A  dam  here 
impounds  the  water  for  power. 

The  General  Court  had  ordered:  "31  May  1652.  For  the  better 
discovery  of  the  north  line  of  our  patent  it  is  ordered  by  this  Court, 
that  Capt.  Symond  Willard  &  Capt.  Edward  Johnson  be  appointed 
commissioners  to  procure  such  artists  &  other  assistants  as  they  shall 
judge  meete  to  goe  with  them  to  find  out  the  most  northerly  part  of 
the  Merrimache  River,  and  that  they  be  supplied  with  all  manner  of 
nessessaryes  by  the  Treasurer  fitt  for  this  journey  &  that  they  shall  use 
their  utmost  skill  an  abilitie  to  take  a  true  observation  of  the  latitude 
of  that  place,  and  that  they  do  it  with  all  convenient  speed."  They 
reported:  "Our  Answer  is,  that  at  Aquedohcan,  the  name  of  the 
head  of  the  Merrimac,  where  it  issues  out  of  the  Winnananussekit,  we 
observed  and  by  observation  found  that  the  latitude  of  the  place  was 
forty  three  degrees,  forty  minutes,  and  twelve  seconds,  besides  those 
minutes  which  run  into  the  Lake." 

The  Merrimack  takes  its  name  from  an  Indian  term  meaning  "swift 
water"  or  ''sturgeon."  The  stream  is  reputed  to  turn  "more  spindles 
than  any  other  river  on  the  face  of  the  globe":  its  volume  ol  trade 
exceeds  that  of  any  American  city  except  New  York,  being  far  greater 
than  that  of  New  York  State's  entire  canal  system,  yet  its  full  powers 
are  not  yet  utilized.  The  river  averages  a  fall  of  two  and  a  half  feet 
per  mile,  mainly  occurring  at  six  points,  where  most  of  its  power  is 
produced.  Its  flow  is  constant  owing  to  the  reservoir  control  of 
the  waterpower  corporations  of  Manchester,  Lowell,  and  Lawrence, 
which  combine  to  make  it  one  of  the  most  carefully  managed  streams 
in  the  United  States,  according  to  Professor  Swain  of  Harvard. 

LAKE  WINNEPESAUKEE  (504  ft),  or  as  it  is  sometimes  spelled 
"Winnipiseogee,"  is  the  largest  lake  in  the  State  and  is  visited 
yearly  by  over  two  hundred  thousand  people.  It  is  twenty- 
one  miles  long  and  twelve  miles  wide,  and  contains  274  islands, 
which  range  in  size  from  one  of  1000  acres  and  nine  of  over 
ico  acres  to  mere  grass-covered  rocks.  Pleasure  boats  of 
every  description  dot  the  lake  from  the  little  '  put-put ' 


614  LACONIA— WOLFEBORO 

launches  to  large  steam  yachts.  There  are  several  boats  with 
a  speed  of  over  twenty-five  miles  an  hour,  and  races  and 
carnivals  are  held  yearly.  The  steamer  "Mt.  Washington" 
makes  the  circuit  of  the  lake  twice  daily  and  affords  an  excel- 
lent opportunity  to  see  the  towns  of  Wolfeboro,  Alton,  Center 
Harbor,  and  Weirs,  which  border  on  it.  Edward  Everett  said, 
"My  eye  has  yet  to  rest  on  a  lovelier  scene  than  that  which 
smiles  around  you  as  you  sail  from  Weirs  Landing." 

The  name  is  translated  "The  Smile  of  the  Great  Spirit"  and 
"The  Beautiful  Water  in  a  High  Place."  Either  translation  is 
appropriate,  and  by  placing  the  word  "on"  between  the  two 
a  fitting  description  is  obtained.  Fishing  here  is  excellent, 
and  in  winter  there  is  splendid  skating  and  ice-boating.  From 
the  shores  of  the  lake  many  of  the  peaks  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains are  visible,  including  Mt.  Washington,  Passaconaway, 
Mt.  Kearsarge,  Sandwich  Dome,  and  Osceola.  On  the  shores 
and  islands  are  established  some  of  the  largest  popular  camps 
both  for  boys  and  for  girls. 

The  route  follows  the  green  markers  to  Meredith  (p  616). 
Detour  around  Lake  Winnepesaukee.     Fair  roads.          55.0  m. 

This  delightful  trip  affords  a  succession  of  changing  per- 
spectives, delightful  views  of  lake  and  forest,  the  magnificent 
Ossipee  range  and  distant  glimpses  of  the  White  Mountains. 
Luxurious  camps,  summer  homes,  and  some  extensive  estates 
lie  along  the  way. 

Leaving  The  Weirs  R.R.  station  on  the  left,  bear  left  at  fork, 
cross  bridge  over  R.R.  and  lake  outlet.  To  the  left  is  Inter- 
laken  Park  and  just  beyond  is  Governors  Island,  which  rises 
136  feet  above  the  lake.  The  road  now  descends  a  hundred 
feet,  but  immediately  rises  again,  disclosing  Saunders  Bay. 
At  Gilford  Station  just  beyond  is  a  grade  crossing,  which  is  one 
of  several,  which  with  the  narrow  winding  road  make  caution 
imperative  for  the  next  ten  miles. 

The  road  follows  the  shore  of  the  lake  through  Belknap  and 
Lake  Shore  Park,  a  small  'attraction'  place.  The  hills  rise 
steeply  on  the  right  to  an  altitude  of  about  1200  feet.  Be- 
yond the  Park  are  the  cottage  colonies  of  Log  Cabin,  Ames, 
and  Spring  Haven,  to  the  right  of  which  the  hill  reaches  the 
height  of  1560  feet. 

The  road  now  rises  abruptly  a  hundred  feet,  and  then  de- 
scends into  West  Alton,  from  whose  shore  lies  Sleepers  Island 
with  Rattlesnake  Island,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  lake,  which 
rises  895  feet  above  sea  level.  Rattlesnake  was  named  for 
the  dangerous  reptiles  which  made  it  untenable  for  many 
years.  Many  interesting  legends  are  connected  with  it. 
Further  out  is  Red  Head  Island  the  site  of  Mishe-Mokwa,  a 


R.  34.     BOSTON   TO  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  615 

camp  for  boys.     Across  the  lake  lies  Wolfeboro,  and  far  to  the 
east  are  the  massive  peaks  of  the  Ossipee  range. 

The  road  now  runs  for  a  mile  through  the  only  level  piece  of 
ground  on  this  side  of  the  lake.  Then  it  ascends  a  small 
incline  and  makes  a  sharp  turn  over  R.R.,  passes  Minge  Cove 
and  recrosses  R.R.  on  the  right.  The  hills  once  more  rise  to 
altitudes  varying  from  1115  feet  to  1796  feet  at  Mt.  Major. 
At  this  point,  just  across  R.R.,  in  a  little  brick  casement,  a 
pipe  brings  the  thirsty  traveler  ice-cold  water  which  chemical 
tests  have  shown  is  second  to  none  in  the  State  for  its  purity. 
The  water  comes  from  a  little  spring  1200  feet  above  sea  level 
on  the  side  of  the  mountain.  Beyond  is  Pumpkin  Point  on 
the  right,  and  Cedar  Mountain  (840  ft)  on  the  left.  The  road 
now  descends  sharply,  passing  the  Camp-meeting  Grounds  of 
the  Seventh  Day  Adventists  on  the  left. 

17.5  ALTON  BAY.  Pop  (Alton  twp)  1348.  Belknap  Co.  Mfg. 
lumber  products.  Steamer  twice  daily  in  season. 

This  little  settlement  is  a  busy  place  in  summer  when  the 
trains  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  pour  thousands  of  excursionists 
from  Boston  and  intermediate  points  into  it,  and  the  camp- 
meeting  is  in  session.  It  is  at  the  head  of  Alton  Bay,  eighteen 
miles  across  the  lake  from  Center  Harbor. 

Alton  Bay  was  formerly  called  "Merry-meeting  Bay"  since  it  was 
a  favorite  Indian  rendezvous.  In  the  early  days  the  Indian  raiding 
parties  passed  through  this  bay,  and  in  1722  the  Province  built  a  mili- 
tary road  here  and  began  erecting  fortifications.  The  expense  was 
too  great,  and  the  idea  was  abandoned,  but  in  1746-47  Atkinson's 
regiment,  which  did  outpost  duty  during  the  French  War,  erected  a 
fort  and  spent  the  winter  here. 

Our  road  now  curves  to  the  left  along  the  shore  to 

27.0     WOLFEBORO.     Alt    508   ft.     Pop    (twp)    2224.     Carroll    Co. 

Settled  1770.     Mfg.  lumber  products. 

This  busy  little  town  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  lake,  named  for 
General  Wolfe,  is  one  of  the  favorite  summer  spots  on  the  lake 
as  well  as  one  of  the  oldest.  Brewster  Academy  is  located 
here.  Nearby  is  Wolfeboro  Camp  for  boys,  conducted  by  mas- 
ters of  the  Hill  School,  also  Camp  Tecumseh,  an  athletic  camp 
for  boys.  The  scenery  from  nearly  every  part  of  the  village 
is  magnificent,  suggestive  of  the  Bras  d'Or  scenery  in  Cape 
Breton.  Not  far  from  here  is  Lake  Wentworth,  on  whose 
shores  once  stood  the  summer  residence  of  Governor  John 
Wentworth.  On  Wolfeboro  Neck  there  is  a  summer  camp  for 
boys.  Our  road  now  leads  upgrade  across  a  narrow  strip  of 
land  with  Winter  Harbor  on  the  left,  where  there  is  another 
boys'  camp,  and  Mirror  Lake  on  the  right.  Lying  to  the  right 
is  TUFTONBORO,  a  quiet  township  on  the  shores  of  the  lake, 
unaffected  in  any  way  by  the  change  of  seasons.  It  was 


616  WOLFEBORO— PLYMOUTH 

settled  after  the  Revolution,  but  long  before  this  the  Indians 
had  used  its  site,  and  arrow  heads,  tomahawks,  stone  axes, 
and  implements  are  often  found  here.  To  the  left  are  Cow, 
Little  Bear,  and  Long  Islands. 

MELVILLE  VILLAGE  (37.0),  a  part  of  Tuftonboro,  is  one  of 
the  quietest  and  loveliest  retreats  of  this  region.  It  nestles 
peacefully  at  the  foot  of  the  Ossipee  Mountains  on  Tuftonboro 
Bay.  It  is  one  of  the  newer  lake  resorts  and  from  a  modest 
and  retiring  hamlet  has  expanded  to  its  present  position  in 
a  few  years.  Across  the  bay  and  intervening  islands  of  the 
lake  rise  the  Belknap  and  Alton  Mountains.  From  higher 
parts  of  the  village  are  seen  many  of  the  wellknown  peaks  of 
the  White  Mountains  and  the  Sandwich  range.  The  Plant 
estate  on  Ossipee  Mountains  is  close  by  (R.  42). 

Beyond  here  the  road  rises  to  an  altitude  of  212  feet  above 
the  lake,  unfolding  beyond  Moultonboro  Neck,  the  old  home 
of  the  Ossipee  Indians,  a  magnificent  panorama  of  the  lake. 
To  the  right  Bald  Mountain  raises  its  head,  and  in  the  back- 
ground is  Mt.  Shaw  (2975  ft).  Presently  we  join  Route  42 n 
on  the  State  Road,  with  red  markers,  and  turn  to  the  left  to 

50.0  CENTER  HARBOR.  Alt  567  ft.  Pop  (twp)  420.  Belknap 
Co.  Settled  1757. 

This  popular  summer  village  is  appreciably  higher  than  the 
level  of  the  lake,  and  from  nearly  any  point  in  the  town  there  is 
a  magnificent  view  of  the  mountains  and  Lake  Asquam,  more 
popularly  known  as  'Squam.'  Nearby  is  Pinelands,  a  fash- 
ionable girls'  camp. 

The  road,  with  red  markers,  now  leads  us  back  to  the  main 
State  Road  near  Meredith  (55.0).  The  Merrimack  valley 
road,  with  green  markers,  ascends  a  sharp  hill  from  the  top 
of  which  Red  Hill  is  seen  in  the  foreground  and  over  it  White- 
face  and  Passaconaway.  A  little  to  the  right  is  Chocorua. 
On  the  left  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  Lake  Waukewan. 

120.0  MEREDITH.  Alt  548  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1713.  Belknap  Co. 
Inc.  1768.  Mfg.  coffins,  linen,  harnesses,  boats,  sieves, 
wheelbarrows,  and  chair  stock. 

Meredith  is  both  a  summer  town  and  a  manufacturing  center. 
Several  men  of  fortune  have  homes  here,  including  Reinhardt 
Bartels,  David  M.  Little,  former  mayor  of  Salem  and  collector 
of  the  port;  William  J.  Follett,  the  Boston  wool  merchant; 
and  Joseph  Greer,  wool  merchant  of  Philadelphia.  One  of 
the  few  linen  mills  in  the  country,  recently  enlarged  on  ac- 
count of  war  conditions,  is  situated  here.  Wheelbarrows  and 
caskets  are  characteristic  manufactures. 

The  route  now  follows  the  shore  of  Asquam  Lake,  usually 
called  'Squam.'  This  is  one  of  the  largest  as  well  as  most 


R.  34.     BOSTON   TO  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  617 

picturesque  in  the  State.  It  has  125  miles  of  shore  and  con- 
tains twenty-six  islands.  Here  were  established  the  first 
summer  camps  for  boys.  Camp  Algonquin  has  been  conducted 
by  Edwin  DeMeritte  for  thirty  years.  On  the  east  shore  is  the 
Harvard  Engineering  Camp.  White  Oak  Pond  is  on  the  left. 

120.8     HOLDERNESS.     Pop     (twp)     682.      Grafton     Co.      Settled 

1751.     Mfg.  lumber. 

This  is  an  ancient  Episcopal  town  which  was  granted  to 
John  Shepard  and  others  in  1751.  It  was  later  regranted  to 
Major  Wentworth  in  1761.  In  1816  the  name  was  changed 
to  Holderness.  Here  is  the  diocesan  school  of  New  Hampshire 
for  boys.  The  road  follows  the  green-banded  poles  along  the 
shores  of  Little  Squam  Lake,  an  ever-changing  scene. 

132  .0     ASHLAND.     Alt  555  ft.     Pop  (twp)  1412.     Inc.  1868. 

This  is  a  small  manufacturing  town  near  the  confluence  of 
the  Squam  and  Pemigewasset  rivers.  One  of  the  largest  woolen 
hosiery  factories  in  the  country  is  located  here.  The  Asquam 
Lake  steamers  reach  the  town  by  the  Squam  river.  Colonel 
Thomas  P.  Cheney,  long  the  'Warwick'  of  New  Hampshire, 
the  leader  of  the  Republicans,  makes  his  home  here.  Sherman 
Whipple  of  Boston  was  formerly  an  Ashland  resident. 

138.0  PLYMOUTH.  Alt  483  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2200.  County-seat  of 
Grafton  Co.  Settled  1663.  Mfg.  gloves,  pegs  and  bobbins, 
sporting  goods,  pulp,  and  lumber. 

This  is  a  busy  center  of  trade,  and  is  especially  noted  for  the 
manufacture  of  fine  buckskin  gloves.  In  Langdon  Park  the 
State  Normal  School  holds  its  festivities.  On  May  17,  1864, 
Nathaniel  Hawthorne  with  his  friend  Franklin  Pierce  came 
here  for  their  annual  visit.  The  following  morning  the  Ex- 
president  entered  his  friend's  chamber  and  discovered  that  he 
had  died  quietly  in  the  night.  William  Dean  Howells  was 
also  a  regular  visitor  for  many  years. 

The  summit  of  Mt.  Prospect,  northeast  of  the  town,  is  an 
excellent  place  of  vantage  for  a  comprehensive  view  of  the 
surrounding  country.  In  the  north  are  the  peaks  of  the  White 
Mountains,  the  most  prominent  of  which  is  Lafayette.  In  the 
northeast  are  Osceola  and  White  Eace,  and  further  eastward 
the  Squam  range  with  beautiful  Squam  Lake  below  it.  In 
the  southeast  Winnepesaukee  glistens  in  the  sunlight,  guarded 
by  Mt.  Belknap.  On  this  mountain  are  several  interesting 
objects,  chief  of  which  are  the  Miser's  Cave,  the  Cold  and 
Boiling  Springs,  and  the  Avalanche. 

From  Plymouth  the  route  follows  the  green  markers  past 
Livermore  Falls.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  on  the  outskirts  of 
West  Campton  the  great  masses  of  the  Franconia  Mountains 


618  PLYMOUTH— THE   FLUME   HOUSE 

unfold  a  magnificent  panorama,  with  their  highest  peak,  Mt. 
Lafayette,  and  the  valley  of  Mad  River  on  the  right,  showing 
Sandwich  Dome,  Tri-Pyramid,  and  Tecumseh  at  the  north. 

145.0  WEST  CAMPION.  Alt  1103  ft.  Pop  (twp)  845.  Grafton 
Co.  Settled  1765.  Mfg.  lumber. 

The  town  was  so  named  as  it  was  a  favorite  camping  place 
for  surveyors.  It  was  first  granted  in  1761. 

Passing  through  THORNTON  (149.0)  and  WEST  THORNTON 
(151.0)  the  green  markers  lead  to 

155.0  WOODSTOCK.  Alt  649  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1083.  Grafton  Co. 
Mfg.  paper  and  lumber. 

From  Woodstock  the  road  continues  up  the  valley  of  the 
Pemigewasset,  the  intervales  gradually  narrowing,  and  ahead 
the  peaks  of  the  Franconia  range  and  the  White  Mountains 
looming  larger  and  larger.  About  two  miles  from  the  village 
there  is  a  grand  prospect  of  peaks  to  the  north.  To  the  right 
are  the  three  peaks  of  Mt.  Moosilauke  (4800  ft),  an  isolated 
peak,  the  loftiest  mountain  in  New  Hampshire  east  of  Mt. 
Lafayette.  The  name  of  the  mountain  is  derived  from  the 
Indian  "moosi,"  which  means  "bald,"  and  "auko,"  "place." 

On  its  summit  is  located  the  Tip  Top  House.  It  is  reached 
by  footpaths  from  North  Woodstock. 

159.0     NORTH  WOODSTOCK.     Alt  809  ft. 

North  Woodstock  is  a  beautifully  situated  little  village  in 
the  Pemigewasset  valley  a  few  miles  below  the  Franconia 
Notch,  one  of  the  gateways  to  the  White  Mountains.  To  the 
north  are  Cannon,  or  Profile,  Mountain,  Lincoln,  Eagle  Cliff. 
Lafayette,  Flume,  Haystack,  Liberty,  Big  Coolidge,  and  Little 
Coolidge  Mountains;  on  the  east,  Whaleback,  Potash,  Han- 
cock, and  Russell  Mountains;  on  the  south,  Plymouth  Moun- 
tain and  a  view  of  twenty-five  miles  down  the  Pemigewasset 
valley;  on  the  west,  Mt.  Moosilauke,  Jim,  Blue,  and  Kinsman. 
This  forms  unquestionably  some  of  the  finest  mountain  and 
valley  scenery  in  New  England. 

A  very  interesting  excursion  from  North  Woodstock  is  to 
Lost  River,  reached  by  the  Wildwood  road.  The  slides  and 
caves  and  chambers  are  unequaled  in  the  White  Mountains. 
It  is  probably  the  best  feature  of  rock  structure  in  the  region; 
nowhere  else  in  the  mountains  are  there  erosion  effects  of  such 
magnitude  and  continuity.  The  Moosilauke  Branch  passes 
for  several  hundred  yards  over  a  bed  composed  of  Cyclopean 
rocks  which  form  huge  basins  and  caves  of  fantastic  shapes, 
while  the  water,  seeking  the  lowest  level,  has  here  and  there 
disappeared  entirely  from  view.  Ladders  and  candles  are 
useful  at  certain  points,  as  is  a  guide,  on  the  first  visit. 


R.  34.     BOSTON  |TO   THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  619 

Beyond  North  Woodstock  the  mountains  begin  to  close  in 
as  the  road  approaches  the  mouth  of  the  defile.  To  the  right 
are  the  peaks  of  the  Franconia  Range,  Mts.  Flume,  Liberty, 
Haystack,  and  Lafayette;  on  the  left,  the  summits  of  the 
Pemigewasset  range,  Cannon  and  Kinsman.  The  road  winds 
up  the  long  ascent  to  the  Flume  House. 

THE  FRANCONIA  RANGE  is  the  name  given  to  a  small  group 
of  summits  between  Twin  Mountain  on  the  east  and  the  Pem- 
igewasset range  on  the  west.  Strictly  speaking,  the  Fran- 
conia Mountains  are  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Notch,  but 
the  Pemigewasset  Mountains  which  form  the  western  side  of 
the  defile  are  usually  included  in  the  group.  The  name 
is  derived  from  the  town  of  Franconia  to  the  northwest,  in 
which  the  chief  peaks  are  situated.  Lafayette  (5270  ft)  is 
the  monarch  of  the  group.  This  heavily  wooded  range  is  less 
grand  and  majestic  but  in  some  respects  more  lovely  than  the 
great  range  of  the  White  Mountains.  Starr  King  truly  said: 
"The  narrow  district  thus  enclosed  contains  more  objects  of 
interest  to  the  mass  of  travelers  than  any  other  region  of 
equal  extent  within  the  compass  of  the  usual  White  Mountain 
tour.  In  the  way  of  rock-sculpture  and  waterfalls  it  is  a  huge 
museum  of  curiosities." 

164.0     THE  FLUME  HOUSE.     Alt  1450  ft. 

The  Flume  House  is  situated  at  the  south  end  of  the  Fran- 
conia Notch  at  the  base  of  Mt.  Pemigewasset  and  opposite 
Mt.  Liberty  and  Mt.  Flume.  It  is  a  somewhat  quieter  resort 
than  the  Profile  House,  and  a  good  center  for  excursions. 

The  great  attraction  is  the  FLUME,  a  walk  of  about  half  a 
mile  by  a  path  through  the  woods,  which  starts  opposite  the 
hotel.  It  is  a  deep  and  narrow  fissure  in  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain of  that  name,  600-700  feet  long,  10-20  feet  wide,  with 
precipices  60-70  feet  high,  through  which  dashes  a  brook.  A 
path  is  carried  along  above  the  brook  by  wooden  galleries  and 
bridges.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  defile  where  the  walls  are 
narrowest  a  huge  boulder  was  formerly  suspended,  but  was 
carried  away  by  a  landslide  in  1883. 

A  sign  post  near  the  hotel  shows  the  way  to  the  Pool,  a 
rocky  basin  of  the  Pemigewasset,  150  feet  wide  and  40  feet  deep, 
overshadowed  by  towering  cliffs.  The  'Basin'  of  the  Pem- 
igewasset is  another  point  of  interest,  and  there  are  numerous 
other  excursions  for  those  who  make  their  headquarters  here. 

From  the  Flume  House  the  route  climbs  through  the  FRAN- 
CONIA NOTCH  (1974  ft)  to  the  Profile  House.  This  beautiful 
defile  lies  between  the  Franconia  and  the  Pemigewasset  ranges. 
It  is  from  five  to  six  miles  long,  and  the  average  width  is  half 
a  mile.  Above  on  the  west  rise  Mts.  Kinsman  (4200  ft)  and 


620  THE   FLUME   HOUSE— FABYANS 

Cannon  (4107  ft),  and  on  the  east,  Mts.  Flume  (4340  ft),  Liberty 
(4472  ft),  Lincoln  (5098  ft),  and  Lafayette  (5270  ft),  the  loft- 
iest of  the  Franconia  group.  Much  of  this  country  is  Govern- 
ment land,  now  opened  to  homesteaders.  The  road  for  the 
most  part  winds  through  the  forests,  following  the  course  of 
the  Upper  Pemigewasset,  here  a  rushing  mountain  stream. 
The  beauty  of  the  Notch  has  been  extolled  by  many  travelers 
during  the  last  century.  Harriet  Martineau  wrote,  "I  cer- 
tainly think  the  Franconia  Defile  the  noblest  mountain  pass 
I  saw  in  the  United  States." 

About  a  mile  beyond  the  Flume  House,  on  the  left  of  the 
road,  is  the  Basin,  a  deep  bowl  worn  by  the  action  of  the 
waters  of  the  Pemigewasset. 

Half  a  mile  before  reaching  the  New  Profile  House  (168.0), 
we  pass  on  the  left  a  lovely  little  sheet  of  water  known  as  Profile 
Lake  (1747  ft),  or  'The  Old  Man's  Washbowl,'  and  nearby, 
a  sign  post  marking  the  spot  which  commands  the  finest  view 
of  the  famous  Profile  or  'Old  Man  of  the  Mountain.'  The 
Profile  is  formed  by  the  granite  ledges  on  the  upper  cliffs  of 
Mt.  Cannon,  or  Profile.  The  face,  which  looks  toward  the 
southeast,  is  80  feet  in  height  and  1200  feet  above  the  lake.  It 
was  discovered  in  1805  by  two  men  who  were  working  on  the 
Notch  road.  They  were  washing  their  hands  in  the  lake  and 
happened  to  glance  up  and  see  the  Profile.  "That  is  Jefferson!" 
one  of  them  exclaimed,  he  being  President  at  the  time.  The 
'Old  Man'  was  made  celebrated  by  Hawthorne's  "The  Great 
Stone  Face."  It  is  best  seen  in  the  afternoon  light  when  re- 
lieved against  a  bright  sky.  Profile  Lake  is  a  beautiful  moun- 
tain tarn  nearly  surrounded  by  forests.  A  pond  above  the  lake 
is  the  source  of  the  Pemigewasset  river. 

The  New  Profile  House  (1974  ft)  lies  on  a  little  plateau  about 
halfway  between  Profile  and  Echo  Lakes,  under  the  shadow 
of  Mt.  Cannon.  The  hotel  with  its  dependent  cottages  and 
out-buildings  forms  the  entire  settlement  of  this  region.  Owing 
to  the  lovely  situation,  it  is  one  of  the  most  popular  of  the 
mountain  resorts.  The  waters  of  Profile  Lake  flow  through 
the  Pemigewasset  into  the  Merrimack,  while  the  waters  of 
Echo  Lake,  just  beyond  the  Profile  House,  flow  northward 
into  the  Ammonoosuc  and  the  Connecticut. 

Beyond  the  Profile  House  the  route  follows  the  shore  of 
Echo  Lake,  near  the  base  of  Artist's  Bluff,  a  famous  view- 
point. The  echoes  which  give  the  lake  its  name  may  best 
be  awakened  in  the  vicinity  of  the  boathouse. 

Favorite  excursions  include,  in  addition  to  those  to  Profile 
and  Echo  Lakes,  the  ascents  of  Mt.  Cannon  and  of  Mt.  La- 
fayette, the  latter  commanding  an  especially  fine  view. 


R.   34.     BOSTON   TO  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  621 

Note.     The  road  to  the  left  at  Echo  Lake  leads  to 
5.0    FRANCONIA.     Alt  990  ft.     Pop  (twp)  504.     Grafton  Co. 

West  of  the  Notch  lies  the  little  mountain  village  of  Fran- 
conia  in  the  midst  of  picturesque  scenery  with  especially  fine 
views  of  the  Franconia  peaks.  The  village  nestles  in  a  deep 
glen  almost  under  the  shadow  of  Sugar  Hill. 

In  the  days  of  our  grandfathers,  Jacob  Abbott's  "Franconia 
Stories"  of  life  in  this  simple,  placid  neighborhood  were  among 
the  most  popular  children's  books,  gaining  praise  and  fame  even 
in  England.  They  will  fascinate  all  those  who  care  for  annals 
of  country  life  in  earlier  days  when  pioneer  ways  and  means 
still  prevailed  in  New  England.  The  road  forks  north  to 
Littleton  (p  363),  and  southwest  to 

10.0     SUGAR  HILL.     Alt  1650  ft. 

To  the  west  beyond  the  village  of  Franconia  is  the  popular 
summer  colony  of  Sugar  Hill  on  a  bold,  slaty  ridge  (1650  ft) 
in  the  eastern  part  of  the  town  of  Lisbon.  The  name  is 
derived  from  a  grove  of  sugar-maples  on  the  summit.  The 
long  village  street  runs  on  the  upper  western  slope  of  the  ridge, 
from  which  there  are  splendid  panoramas  of  the  White  and 
the  Green  Mountains.  There  is  a  golf  course  in  connection 
with  the  Sunset  Hill  House.  The  panorama  from  Sugar  Hill 
has  been  described  as  "the  most  complete  view  in  the  White 
Mountains,"  for  it  includes  both  the  Presidential  and  Fran- 
conia ranges.  The  road  westward  connects  with  Route  10,  the 
New  Hampshire  State  West  Side  Road  (p  363). 

Continuing  to  Bretton  Woods,  to  the  right  are  views  of 
Haystack  and  Twin  Mountains  and  ahead  is  Cherry  Moun- 
tain. The  left  fork  leads  to  Bethlehem  (p  363). 

182.5     TWIN  MOUNTAIN.     Alt  1450  ft.     (In  Carroll  twp.) 

Twin  Mountain,  a  popular  vacation  resort,  is  well  situated  on 
the  Ammonoosuc  river,  in  a  region  of  fine  mountain  vistas. 
Opposite  are  Mt.  Hale  (4102  ft)  to  the  left,  and  the  North 
Twin  (4783  ft),  concealing  the  South  Twin  (4922  ft).  The 
State  Road  to  the  left,  with  light  blue  markers,  leads  to  the 
resorts  of  Bethlehem  and  Maplewood  (p  364). 

From  Twin  Mountain  turn  right,  following  red  markers 
along  the  pleasant  valley  of  the  Ammonoosuc  with  fine  views 
of  the  Presidential  Range  ahead.  About  four  miles  beyond 
are  the  Lower  Falls  of  the  Ammonoosuc. 

187.0     FABYANS.     Alt  155  ft. 

This  large  hotel  is  situated  on  the  site  of  the  Giant's  Grave, 
a  drift-mound  on  the  Ammonoosuc,  about  half  a  mile  west 
of  the  Mt.  Washington  Hotel.  From  Fabyans  a  branch 


622  FABYANS— BRETTON  WOODS 

railway  runs  to  the  Base  Station  of  Mt.  Washington,  the 
starting  point  of  the  railway  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain, 
which  is  seven  and  a  half  miles  distant  from  Fabyans. 

188.0     BRETTON  WOODS. 

In  this  wide  valley  are  many  of  the  largest  mountain  hotels, 
and  from  here  we  get  the  best  view  of  the  entire  Presidential 
range.  Mt.  Washington,  the  most  prominent  peak,  rears  its 
frosted  head  6293  feet  above  the  sea.  A  path  leads  from  the 
Mt.  Pleasant  House  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Stickney  (2570  ft).  To 
the  right  of  the  Mt.  Pleasant  House  is  a  memorial  chapel  and  to 
the  right  is  a  fountain  to  the  Andersons  of  the  Portland  & 
Ogdensburg  R.R.,  who  did  much  to  make  this  region  accessible. 

For  the  Crawford  Notch  see  Route  50;  for  the  northern 
routes  via  Twin  Mountain  to  Colebrook,  Jefferson,  and 
Gorham  see  Routes  10  and  51. 

THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS  are  in  the  northern  part  of  the  east 
coast  chain  of  mountains,  known  as  the  Appalachian  system. 
They  occupy  an  area  of  1300  square  miles,  extending  thirty 
miles,  from  the  Androscoggin  river  on  the  north  to  the  Sand- 
wich range  on  the  south,  and  forty-five  miles,  from  Maine  to 
the  Connecticut  river.  They  rise  from  a  plateau  1500-1600 
feet  high.  Mt.  Washington  (6293  ft)  is  the  highest  peak  east 
of  the  Rockies  and  north  of  the  Carolinas.  In  the  narrowest 
sense  the  name  White  Mountains  is  restricted  to  the  Great,  or 
Presidential,  Range,  from  Mt.  Madison  to  Mt.  Webster,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  thirteen  miles.  The  great  mass  consists  of 
granite  overlaid  by  mica  slate.  The  trend  of  the  ranges  is 
north  to  south,  as  with  most  North  American  mountains  and 
especially  those  of  New  England. 

These  mountains  were  the  happy  hunting  grounds  of  the  Indians, 
and  objects  of  great  veneration.  Mt.  Washington  was  a  sort  of  Indian 
Mount  Olympus  or  Walhalla,  the  abode  of  the  Great  Spirit.  The 
last  great  Indian  leader,  the  Sachem  Passaconaway,  chief  of  the  Merri- 
mack  tribes,  was  the  subject  of  innumerable  legends.  He  was  a  con- 
vert of  the  Apostle  Eliot  and  finally  abdicated  in  his  I2oth  year  and 
after  his  death  became  a  demi-god  of  these  mountains. 

Verazzano,  the  Florentine  explorer  in  the  service  of  the  king  of 
France,  cruised  along  the  American  coast  in  1524,  and,  visiting  the  site 
of  Portsmouth,  speaks  of  "the  coast,  which  we  found  more  pleasant 
champain  and  without  woods,  with  high  mountains  within  the  land." 
Darby  Field,  an  Irish  "soldier  of  discovery,"  was  the  first  white  man 
to  visit  these  mountains.  Accompanied  by  two  Indians  and  in  June, 
1642,  he  made  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Washington.  In  August  of  the 
same  year  another  party  visited  the  mountains.  In  1672  the  first 
printed  account  was  given  in  John  Josselyn's  "New  England's  Rar- 
ities Discovered."  Field  called  the  higher  peaks  the  v"Chrystall 
Hills"  on  account  of  gems  which  he  claimed  to  have  seen  there.  The 
name  "White  Mountains"  was  probably  given  by  sailors  off  the  coast, 
who  saw  the  snowy  peaks  in  winter.  During  the  Indian  wars  explo- 


R.  34.     BOSTON   TO   THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS  623 

ration  practically  ceased,  and  the  pioneers  did  not  move  in  until  after 
the  conquest  of  Canada. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  travelers  like  Dr.  Belknap 
and  President  Dwight  visited  the  region,  and  old  settlers  like  the  Craw- 
fords  and  the  Fabyans  found  summer  occupation  in  guiding  them  to  the 
peaks.  By  1850  the  White  Mountains  had  become  one  of  the  play- 
grounds of  the  nation.  In  1862  Anthony  Trollope,  the  English  novelist, 
wrote:  "That  there  was  a  district  in  New  England  containing  mountain 
scenery  superior  to  much  that  is  yearly  crowded  by  tourists  in  Europe, 
that  this  is  to  be  reached  with  ease  by  railways  and  stage-coaches, 
and  that  it  is  dotted  with  huge  hotels,  almost  as  thickly  as  they  lie 
in  Switzerland,  I  had  no  idea." 

The  Appalachian  Mountain  Club,  founded  in  1876, — office, 
1050  Tremont  Bldg.,  Boston, — has  been  a  great  influence  in 
the  development  of  the  White  Mountains.  It  has  constructed 
marked  trails,  and  secured  legislation  for  forest  preservation 
and  good  roads.  The  club  has  likewise  erected  shelters  on 
many  of  the  mountain  trails,  which  are  supplied  with  canned 
food  and  conveniences  for  the  free  use  of  the  traveler,  subject 
to  the  rule  that  he  must  leave  as  much  as  he  takes.  The  club 
periodical,  "Appalachia,"  contains  a  good  deal  of  valuable 
information  for  pedestrians  and  mountain  lovers.  Pedestri- 
ans should  procure  the  Appalachian  "Club  Guide,"  Part  I. 

This  district  has  suffered  from  deforestation,  but  much  has 
been  done  in  recent  years  to  remedy  this.  Under  the  pro- 
visions of  the  Weeks  bill  of  March  i,  1911,  the  Government  has 
acquired  lands  here  to  be  held  as  recreation  grounds  for  the 
people  under  the  conditions  that  govern  the  national  parks. 
By  the  regulation  of  stream  flow  and  the  perpetuation  of  the 
lumber  industry  the  Government  aims  to  make  this  a  perma- 
nent national  asset,  such  as  the  Black  Forest  is  to  Germany, 
and  "to  be  open  to  every  kind  of  use  and  occupancy  which 
does  not  reduce  its  value  to  the  community  or  conflict  with 
the  principle  of  equal  rights  of  all." 

The  White  Mountain  National  Forest  now  has  a  total  of 
about  260,000  acres,  and  eventually  will  probably  have  about 
three  times  that  amount.  The  initial  appropriation  of  Con- 
gress, $11,000,000,  to  extend  over  a  period  of  five  years,  expired 
in  1915,  but  measures  are  now  on  foot  to  make  these  appro- 
priations a  permanent  policy.  The  headquarters  office  is 
located  in  Gorham  (R.  42). 

Mt.  Washington  (6293  ft),  the  monarch  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains, is  the  culminating  point  of  this  "ridge  pole  of  New  Eng- 
land," the  axis  of  the  White  Mountain  system. 

A  railway  has  been  running  to  the  summit  since  1869,  one 
of  the  first  constructed  on  the  cog-wheel  principle.  The 
majority  of  tourists  ascend  the  mountain  by  it,  although 
pedestrians  may  prefer  one  of  the  attractive  paths  or  the  car- 


624  BRETTON    WOODS 

riage  road  from  the  Glen  side  (R.  42).  The  distance  from  the 
Base  Station  to  the  Summit  House  is  about  three  miles,  with 
an  average  gradient  of  1300  feet  and  a  maximum  gradient  of 
2000  feet  to  the  mile.  Above  the  forest  line  and  to  the  left 
there  is  a  magnificent  panorama  of  Mt.  Clay  with  the  Great 
Gulf  and  the  peaks  of  Jefferson  and  Adams.  Near  the  summit 
on  the  right  is  the  monument  marking  the  spot  where  Lizzie 
Bourne  died  of  exhaustion  in  1855. 

The  top  of  the  mountain  is  occupied  by  several  buildings; 
the  celebrated  old  Tip  Top  House,  erected  in  1853  and  chained 
to  the  rocks  in  order  to  prevent  its  being  blown  away,  was 
burned  several  years  ago.  A  new  hotel  has  been  under  con- 
struction during  the  past  few  years. 

The  view  from  the  summit  is  justly  renowned.  It  sweeps  a 
circumference  of  nearly  1000  miles,  including  parts  of  five  States 
and  the  Province  of  Quebec,  the  ranges  of  the  White  and  the 
Green  Mountains  with  the  distant  Adirondacks,  and  Portland 
and  Casco  Bay.  Starr  King  says:  "The  first  effect  of 
standing  on  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington  is  a  bewildering 
of  the  senses  at  the  extent  and  lawlessness  of  the  spectacle. 
It  is  as  though  we  were  looking  upon  a  chaos.  The  land  is 
tossed  into  a  tempest." 

To  the  east  of  and  below  the  cone  is  a  terrace  known  as  the 
Alpine  Garden,  a  happy  hunting  ground  for  botanists.  The 
vegetation  here  is  much  the  same  as  that  of  Greenland  at  70° 
north  latitude. 

On  the  north  and  the  east  the  mountain  is  furrowed  by  sev- 
eral huge  ravines  of  which  Tuckerman's  and  Huntington's  are 
the  best  known.  On  the  east  side,  starting  from  the  Glen 
House,  is  the  carriage  road  constructed  1855-61.  This  can 
be  reached  either  via  Gorham  or  else  via  Glen  Station  and 
Jackson  (R.  42).  This  road  runs  along  the  edge  of  the  Great 
Gulf  for  a  good  part  of  the  way  and  affords  a  succession  of 
splendid  vfews.  One  of  the  favorite  footpaths  up  the  moun- 
tain is  through  Pinkham  Notch  and  Tuckerman's  Ravine 
(R.  42),  a  huge  "corrie"  on  the  southeast  slope  enclosed  by 
towering  rocky  walls  1000  feet  high — one  of  the  most  impres- 
sive bits  of  White  Mountain  scenery.  For  other  footpaths 
see  the  publications  of  the  Appalachian  Mountain  Club. 


R.  35.     BOSTON  to  PORTSMOUTH.  58.0m. 

Via  the  NEWBURYPORT  TURNPIKE  and  the  LAFAYETTE  ROAD. 
This  is  the  most  direct  route  to  Newburyport  and  Ports- 
mouth.    For  the  alternative,  the  more  attractive  and  longer 
route  along  the  North  Shore,  see  Route  36  (p  627). 

R.  35  §  1.     Boston  to  Newburyport.  36.5  m. 

This  turnpike  was  one  of  the  earliest  structures  in  this 
country  between  the  then  two  almost  equally  important  com- 
mercial cities  of  Boston  and  Newburyport.  It  runs  in  an 
almost  straight  line  across  country,  up  hill  and  down,  through 
some  charming  rural  scenery,  avoiding  all  the  industrial 
centers  of  the  larger  towns.  The  road  surfaces  are  not  so  per- 
fect as  on  the  shore  road. 

The  route  follows  the  course  of  Route  36  (p  627)  to  the 
Revere  Beach  Parkway,  where  it  turns  left  at  the  crossroads 
(7.0),  with  trolley,  on  Broadway. 

7.5  EVERETT.  Pop  33,484  (1910),  37,718  (1915);  one  fourth  for- 
eign-born. Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1630.  Mfg.  coke,  gas, 
chemicals,  shoes,  spring  beds. 

A  manufacturing  suburb  of  Boston,  it  is  the  headquarters 
of  the  New  England  Gas  &  Coke  Co.  This  interesting  and 
novel  enterprise  was  established  twenty  years  ago  by  Henry  M. 
Whitney,  who  conceived  the  idea  of  bringing  cheap  Cape  Breton 
coal  here  by  water  for  manufacturing  the  gas  for  delivery  by 
pipe  lines  to  the  gas  companies  in  and  about  Boston.  Coke 
is  an  important  by-product.  Everett  figures  in  the  news- 
paper columns  as  the  source  of  the  football  wonders,  named 
Brickley.  One  or  another  of  them  continues  to  cause  com- 
motion in  some  way  in  intercollegiate  athletics.  Their  sire 
is  city  superintendent  of  streets. 

The  route  passes  through  the  center  of  the  city,  crossing 
R.R.  at  Broadway  Station,  and  follows  the  macadam  road  to 
Lynnfield.  To  the  west  lie  the  towns  of  Maiden  and  Melrose, 
to  the  east  Cliftondale.  Passing  through  the  woods  in  the 
western  part  of  Saugus  township,  we  cross  Route  21  (p  480). 

15.5     LYNNFIELD.     Pop  (twp)  911  (1910),  1112  (1915).     Essex  Co. 

Settled  1720.  Mfg.  vinegar,  cider,  and  elderberry  wine. 
Beyond  Lynnfield,  where  we  cross  Route  29  (p  514),  the 
turnpike  skirts  Sontaug  Lake,  where  stands  Sontaug  Inn, 
a  popular  road  house,  and  from  here  on  runs  straight  as  an 
arrow  for  twenty  miles  up  hill  and  down  dale.  Beyond  the 
lake  we  climb  a  long  grade  to  an  altitude  of  160  feet.  Three 
miles  to  the  east  lies  Peabody  and  just  beyond  we  pass  through 
the  western  portion  of  the  town  of  Danvers  (p  690) . 

(625) 


626  LYNNFIELD— PORTSMOUTH 

Near  the  crossroads,  toward  Danvers,  is  the  Ferncroft  Inn, 
a  lively  road  house  of  good  cheer,  which  has  figured  largely  in 
the  headlines  of  Boston  papers  the  last  few  years  because  of 
the  various  illicit  doings  of  its  former  notorious  proprietor. 
Ihe  original  inn,  burned  down  in  1910,  occupied  the  old  Nichols 
House  and  the  name  Ferncroft  was  given  by  Whittier. 

The  turnpike  traverses  a  hilly  region  in  the  town  of  Tops- 
field  on  Route  29  (p  515).  It  has  recently  been  taken  up  by 
large  residential  estates. 

Just  before  reaching  the  little  hamlet  of  CHAPLINVILLE 
(29.0),  Hunsley  Hill  (260  ft)  rises  on  the  left.  At  GLEN 
MILLS  (32.0)  we  come  in  sight  of  the  salt  marshes.  Just  after 
crossing  Mill  Creek,  Dummer  Academy,  at  South  Byfield, 
stands  under  the  lee  of  a  friendly  hill. 

This  is  one  of  the  earliest  of  the  oldtime  academies.  It  was  endowed 
by  William  Dummer,  Lieutenant-governor  of  Massachusetts,  who  left 
his  house  and  farm  here  for  the  establishment  of  a  grammar  school 
in  1761.  It  was  opened  in  1763,  and  from  its  threshold  many  of  the 
educated  men  of  the  Revolutionary  days  stepped  out  into  the  new 
America.  For  a  time  it  sank  wellnigh  into  oblivion,  but  it  has  re- 
vived its  old  activity  together  with  many  of  the  oldtime  customs. 

Crossing  Parker  River  we  climb  to  the  Newbury  plateau. 

Note.     The  cart  road  to  the  right  leads  a  quarter  mile  east 
to  the  Devil's  Den,  a  quarry  made  by  the  early  settlers  where 
fine  specimens  of  serpentine  are  found.     The  Devil's   Basin 
with  its  gloomy  tarn  is  nearby. 
30.5     NEWBURYPORT  (R.  36,  p  658). 

R.  35  §  2.     Newburyport  to  Portsmouth.  215m. 

This  direct  route  to  Portsmouth  is  via  the  Lafayette  Road, 
named  in  honor  of  the  distinguished  Frenchman  upon  his 
visit  to  America  in  1825. 

From  Newburyport  follow  the  blue  and  then  the  yellow 
markers  of  Route  36  (p  663)  to  Hampton.  Here  the  Lafayette 
Road  leads  straight  on.  On  the  left  (13.5)  is  the  hamlet  of 
North  Hampton.  The  road  rounds  Breakfast  Hill  (140  ft). 

It  received  its  odd  name  from  an  Indian  affray  of  1696  in  which 
the  tribe  descended  on  the  village,  slew  or  captured  some  twenty-one 
of  its  inhabitants  and  retired  to  this  hill  to  breakfast,  whither  the  re- 
mainder of  the  settlers  pursued  them  and,  driving  them  put  of  the 
country  for  the  time,  ate  the  breakfast  prepared  by  the  fleeing  enemy. 

This  upland  region  is  more  broken  and  rolling  than  the  coun- 
try to  the  south,  with  growths  of  pine  among  its  meadows. 
21.5     PORTSMOUTH  (R.  36,  p  666). 


R.  36.     BOSTON  to  PORTLAND.  129.0  m. 

Via  THE  NORTH  SHORE,  NEWBURYPORT    and    PORTSMOUTH. 

This  is  the  chief  entrance  to  Maine,  the  only  route  to  the 
Maritime  Provinces,  and  a  favorite  approach  to  the  White 
Mountains.  It  is  much  frequented  by  summer  motorists, 
and  is  doubly  popular,  since  it  traverses  the  richest  portion 
of  New  England  in  story,  history,  and  marine  coastal  scenery. 
Its  almost  countless  attractions  include  the  three  old  'ports,' 
—  Newburyport,  Portsmouth,  and  Portland, —  splendid  estates, 
seaside  resorts,  and  moldering  old  towns,  great  in  the  com- 
merce of  a  century  ago.  The  route  is  marked  by  blue  bands 
to  the  Massachusetts  line  and  thence  by  yellow  bands  to 
Portsmouth. 


R.  36  §  1.     Boston  to  Newburyport.  48.0  m. 

Via  LYNN,  SALEM,  BEVERLY,  and  IPSWICH;   with  detours  to 

NAHANT,  MARBLEHEAD,  and  CAPE  ANN. 

This  route  follows  the  rugged  coast  of  Massachusetts  north- 
ward. Though  longer  than  the  direct  Route  35,  via  Newbury- 
port Turnpike,  the  roads  are  better  and  the  attractions  mani- 
fold. The  first  score  of  miles  along  the  coast  present  unusually 
varied  beauty:  rugged  headlands  shelter  the  curving  beaches, 
with  parked  estates  and  heavy  woods  sloping  down  to  the  sea. 
Ihe  richly  varied  landscape  has  made  this  shore  for  a  century 
the  favorite  residential  resort  of  Boston  'Brahmins';  in  recent 
decades  it  has  been  invaded  by  the  multi-millionaire  class 
from  Pittsburgh  and  the  great  West.  Perhaps  no  other  pleas- 
ure region  in  the  country  has  so  large  a  representation  of  wealth 
as  that  including  Beverly,  Prides  Crossing,  Manchester, 
Hamilton,  and  Ipswich.  The  succession  of  great  estates  sug- 
gests the  English  countryside,  and  the  society  is  correspond- 
ingly 'sporty.'  "On  the  North  Shore  one  must  dress  for 
dinner;  on  the  South  Shore,  one  may."  "You  haven't  seen 
America  if  you  haven't  seen  the  North  Shore,"  said  a  distin- 
guished diplomat,  and  the  diplomats  evidently  believe  it  for 
here  they  chiefly  gather  from  June  to  November.  It  has  been 
called  the  "Gold  Coast"  because  of  its  plethora  of  millionaires 
who  summer  here. 

The  route  from  Boston  follows  splendid  boulevards  along 
or  near  the  sea  to  the  great  shoe  city  of  Lynn,  thence  through 
a  succession  of  minor  coast  resorts  to  the  still  quaint  city  of 
Salem,  rich  in  relics  of  the  days  when  its  trade  and  wealth 
rivaled  that  of  Boston.  From  Salem  the  course  leads  through 
a  region  of  magnificent  estates.  Ihe  detour  round  Cape  Ann 

(627) 


628  BOSTON— NAHANT 

through  Gloucester  is  well  worth  while.  Further  north  the 
long  whale-backed  drumlins  and  richly  colored  levels  of  the 
marshes  behind  the  sand  dunes  offer  a  diverse  picture. 

The  exit  from  Boston  is  along  narrow  and  congested  streets. 
Two  decades  of  civic  stupidity  and  political  perversity  have 
stood  in  the  way  of  the  proposed  boulevard  between  the 
Charles  and  the  Mystic.  Slow  and  careful  driving  is  essential 
as  far  as  the  Fellsway  entrance. 

Leaving  Boston  by  way  of  Commonwealth  Ave.  to  Massa- 
chusetts Ave.  and  crossing  Harvard  Bridge  to  Central  Square, 
Cambridge  (3.0),  the  route  turns  right  on  Prospect  St.  with 
the  trolley  to  Union  Sq.,  Somerville  (4.0).  Beyond  the  square 
it  turns  right  on  Walnut  St.  up  a  steep  grade  and  across  Broad- 
way into  Fellsway,  crossing  the  Mystic  river  by  Wellington 
Bridge,  and  then  turning  to  the  right  upon  the  Revere  Beach 
Parkway.  This  boulevard,  together  with  Fellsway  under  the 
Metropolitan  Park  Commission,  is  the  most  popular  of  Boston's 
motorways  and  is  one  of  the  chief  entrances  and  exits  to 
Boston.  The  Metropolitan  Park  Police,  in  gray  uniform, 
mounted  on  motorcycles,  strictly  enforce  the  motor  laws. 
The  Parkway  runs  through  the  southern  part  of  Everett  (p  625) 
and  the  northern  portion  of 

6.0  CHELSEA.  Pop  32,452  (1910),  43,426  (1915).  Suffolk  Co. 
Settled  1624.  Indian  name  Winnissimet.  Mfg.  foundry  and 
machine  shop  products,  rubber  goods,  stoves  and  furnaces, 
shoes,  dog  bread;  lithography. 

This  is  an  industrial  city  with  a  large  Jewish  population 
and  diverse  other  foreign  elements,  including  many  Poles. 
Horatio  Alger  was  born  here,  and  B.  P.  Shillaber,  the  creator 
of  Mrs.  Partington,  made  his  home  here  for  many  years.  In 
1908  a  $17,000,000  fire  burned  over  an  area  of  287  acres  and 
destroyed  the  homes  of  16,000  people.  Chelsea  is  one  of 
Boston's  most  important  manufacturing  suburbs,  with  large 
reservations  on  the  Mystic  occupied  by  the  U.S.  Naval  Hospi- 
tal and  the  Marine  Hospital. 

The  boulevard  skirts  the  shoulders  of  Powderhorn  Hill,  on 
which  is  a  Soldiers'  Home:  it  thence  leads  to  REVERE  BEACH 
(10.0),  Boston's  Coney  Island, — the  first  publicly  owned  sea- 
side pleasure  ground  in  the  country,  established  in  1893. 
Here  on  the  Metropolitan  Reservation  is  the  public  Bath 
House,  a  brick  structure  in  the  midst  of  countless  popular 
shows.  In  summer  more  than  100,000  people  often  visit  the 
beach  in  a  single  day.  On  Sundays  and  holidays,  to  avoid 
the  beach  crowds,  automobiles  are  obliged  to  follow  the  recently 
opened  highway  behind  the  amusement  buildings. 

Note.  South  of  Revere  Beach  are  Beachmont  and  Winthrop 
Shore, — the  latter  also  a  Metropolitan  improvement.  In  Winthrop 


R.  36   §  i.     BOSTON   TO   NEWBURYPORT  629 

are  the  harbor  fortifications  of  Fort  Banks  and  Fort  Heath.  The 
batteries  at  the  latter  contain  some  of  the  largest  mortars  on  the 
Atlantic  Coast.  At  Winthrop  in  winter  storms,  the  surf  is  sometimes 
thrown  forty  feet  above  the  roadway.  At  the  extreme  end  of  the 
Winthrop  promontory  is  Point  Shirley  with  the  Point  Shirley  Club, 
a  favorite  haunt  of  a  group  of  Boston  business  men.  Just  beyond  is 
the  narrow  Shirley  Gut  across  which  lies  Deer  Island  with  the  Boston 
City  prisons.  Escaping  prisoners  have  lost  their  lives  in  trying  to 
swim  this  narrow  channel  with  its  swift  current. 

Between  Revere  and  Lynn  the  Parkway  runs  along  the 
beach,  paralleled  by  the  Boston  &  Maine  R.R.  and  "the  'narrow- 
gauge,' — the  Boston,  Revere  Beach  &  Lynn,  a  paragon  of 
railroads,  described  by  the  Massachusetts  Public  Service 
Commission  as  giving  complete  satisfaction  in  service  and  re- 
sults to  patrons  and  stockholders  alike. 

Across  Lynn  Bay  the  peninsula  of  Nahant  stands  out  against 
the  horizon.  Inland  are  the  wide  Lynn  and  Saugus  marshes. 
Oak  Island,  a  recreation  grove,  is  on  the  left;  beyond  on  the 
right  the  Point  of  Pines,  once  a  favorite  pleasure  resort,  has 
lately  been  developed  for  seaside  homes.  Ahead  is  Lynn, 
bristling  with  tall  chimneys,  and  the  square  tower  on  High 
Rock  in  its  center.  The  route  crosses  the  Saugus  river  on 
which,  to  the  west,  lies  Saugus  in  a  charming  region  rarely 
visited  by  the  traveler.  See  Route  21  (p  480). 

On  the  outskirts  of  Lynn  on  the  left  is  the  mammoth  plant 
of  the  General  Electric  Company,  built  on  reclaimed  marsh- 
land. In  1915  this  became  a  center  of  munitions  manufact- 
ure. The  company  maintains  instruction  courses  in  mechani- 
cal and  scientific  subjects  for  scores  of  beginners,  thereby 
training  efficient  workmen.  The  normal  weekly  payroll  of 
$150,000  is  divided  among  13,^00  employees  who  produce 
annually  products  valued  at  $20,000,000. 

Detour  to  Nahant.  6.0  m. 

At  the  entrance  to  Lynn  the  Nahant  road  bears  right  to  the 
boulevard  which  leads  across  the  narrow  natural  causeway 
of  Nahant  Beach  to  Little  Nahant  and 

3.0     NAHANT.    Pop  1184  (1910),  1384  (1915).    Essex  Co.     Settled 

1630.  Steamers  to  Boston  daily  in  summer. 
Nahant  has  for  several  generations  been  a  favorite  resort  of 
conservative  Bostonians,  although  it  has  lately  lost  something 
of  its  earlier  prestige.  So  many  of  the  Boston  'Brahmin' 
families  once  resorted  here  that  a  generation  ago  one  of  them, 
'Tom'  Appleton,  Longfellow's  brother-in-law  and  a  famous 
wit,  called  it  "Cold  Roast  Boston."  The  section  about  Bass 
Point  to  which  excursion  steamers  run  is  a  popular  summer 
resort  for  Boston  'day  trippers.'  But  Nahant  as  a  whole  is 


630  NAHANT— LYNN 

still  almost  as  retired  and  tranquil  as  in  the  days  when  Long- 
fellow, Motley,  Prescott,  Story,  Agassiz,  and  other  Boston 
authors  passed  their  summers  here. 

On  Willard  Road,  just  off  Cliff  St.,  is  the  site  of  the  cottage 
where  Longfellow  began  "Hiawatha"  and  wrote  "The  Bells 
of  Lynn"  and  several  other  poems  including 

"Ah!  what  pleasant  memories  haunt  me, 
As  I  gaze  upon  the  sea! 
All  the  old  romantic  legends, 
All  my  dreams  come  back  to  me." 

At  Eastern  Point  is  the  unpretentious  but  spacious  residence 
of  Henry  Cabot  Lodge.  The  isolated,  temple-like  structure 
was  formerly  the  billiard  room  of  a  large  hotel  that  once  stood 
here  and  is  now  used  by  Senator  Lodge  as  a  library. 

The  Cliff  Walk,  through  private  grounds  but  generously 
open  to  the  public,  runs  along  the  northeast  cliffs,  between  the 
pleasant  villas  and  the  sea.  The  rugged  crags  and  sea-worn 
chasms  bear  such  names  as  The  Pulpit,  Castle  Rock,  The  Churn, 
and  Swallows'  Cave. 

Nahant  originally  consisted  of  two  rocky  islands,  now  bound  to  the 
mainland  by  a  long  strip  of  sandy  beach.  It  was  named  by  Captain 
John  Smith  "Fullerton's  Island";  perhaps  the  neck  across  to  the 
mainland  was  not  then  complete.  In  1630  it  was  bought  from  the 
Indians  for  a  suit  of  clothes;  now  it  has  an  assessed  value  of  $7,000,000. 
Once  covered  with  woods,  long  since  disappeared,  the  ample  shade  of 
today  is  due  to  the  initiative  of  Frederick  Tudor  the  'Ice  King'  and 
merchant  prince  who  spent  a  million  dollars  in  beautifying  the  penin- 
sula; and  also  to  the  interest  of  another  resident,  Thomas  H.  Perkins, 
who  built  the  first  summer  cottage  near  the  Spouting  Horn.  Motley 
began  his  "Dutch  Republic"  in  the  cottage  of  Hannah  Hood,  once  on 
the  George  Upham  estate,  opposite  Whitney's  Hotel.  At  Nahant 
also  Prescott  worked  on  his  "Conquest  of  Mexico"  and  Agassiz  wrote 
much  of  his  volume  on  Brazil,  and  N.  P.  Willis,  Whittier,  and  many 
others  likewise  gained  inspiration  for  their  writings. 

16.0  LYNN.  Pop  89,336  (1910),  95,803  (1915);  one  quarter  for- 
eign-born, consisting  mainly  of  English  and  French  Cana- 
dians, Irish,  Poles,  Armenians,  and  Greeks.  Essex  Co. 
Settled  1629.  Port  of  Entry.  Mfg.  shoes  and  shoe  findings, 
electrical  apparatus,  foundry  products,  machinery,  and  pro- 
prietary medicines.  Value  of  Product,  $78,947,766  (1913); 
Payroll,  $18,210,387. 

Lynn  leads  the  country  in  the  manufacture  of  women's 
shoes,  cut  stock,  and  other  shoe  findings.  More  than  100 
firms  are  engaged  in  the  shoe  industries;  about  250  others 
make  various  goods,  in  value  equaling  the  shoe  output.  In 
shoes  and  shoe  products,  Lynn  now  leads  its  rival,  Brockton, 
the  foremost  city  in  the  manufacture  of  men's  shoes  and  claim- 
ing a  slightly  larger  production  in  shoes  alone.  Its  total  daily 
shoe  output  approximates  175,000  pairs. 

Lynn  has  one  of  the  largest  plants  of  the  General  Elec- 
tric Company,  now  a  large  producer  of  war  munitions,  and 


R.  36   §    I.     BOSTON   TO   NEWBURYPORT  631 

is  also  the  home  of  Lydia  Pinkham's  Vegetable  Compound, 
advertised  so  widely  by  "Lydia's  astringent  smile,"  as  Dr. 
Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  put  it.  It  is  claimed  that  Lynn,  for 
its  size,  is  the  best  lighted  city  in  the  country. 

High  Rock  with  its  massive  square  tower,  in  the  center  of 
the  city,  is  an  outpost  of  the  rocky  hill  rim  of  the  Boston  basin 
which  curves  hence  along  the  Middlesex  Fells  round  to  the 
Blue  Hills  of  Milton.  It  is  a  public  pleasure  ground,  the  tower 
commemorating  the  Hutchinson  family  of  anti-slavery  singers, 
whose  last  survivor  gave  it  to  the  city.  The  view  from  the 
summit  is  certainly  worth  the  climb.  At  the  foot  of  High 
Rock  was  the  home  of  Moll  Pitcher,  a  celebrated  fortune- 
teller of  the  eighteenth  century,  whose  predictions  were  re- 
markable for  their  fulfillment.  Her  clients  included  the  edu- 
cated and  illustrious  as  well  as  the  poor  and  ignorant  (p  636). 
Western  Avenue,  the  old  Salem  Turnpike,  crosses  Glenmere 
Pond  near  the  Salem  line  by  the  "floating  bridge,"  an  unusual 
plank  structure  opened  with  the  turnpike  in  1803,  and  said 
to  be  the  only  permanent  bridge  of  its  kind  in  New  England. 

Lynn  Woods,  in  the  west  of  the  city,  is  a  2ooo-acre  park; 
a  rocky  wild  pleasure  grove  with  features  of  exceptional  beauty. 
Under  Dungeon  Rock  in  these  woods,  according  to  tradition, 
there  was  once  a  cave  where  buccaneers  concealed  vast  treas- 
ure. The  entrance  to  the  cavern,  says  the  story,  was  closed 
by  the  historic  earthquake  of  1658.  In  1852  Hiram  Marble, 
guided  by  a  clairvoyant,  bought  this  piece  of  ground  and  for 
seventeen  years  searched  for  the  treasure  until  his  death,  when 
his  son  vainly  kept  up  the  quest,  ignoring  all  geological  evidence. 
A  tunnel,  seven  feet  high  and  135  feet  long,  driven  into  the  rock, 
is  today  closed  by  an  iron  gate.  On  Lantern  Rock,  nearby, 
the  pirates  of  early  days  are  reputed  to  have  hung  their  signal 
lanterns.  Another  historic  feature  is  the  Wolf  Pits,  dug  by  the 
early  settlers  to  trap  the  numerous  wolves.  Rattlesnakes  are 
still  occasionally  found  among  the  rocks;  a  Lynn  collector  is 
reputed  to  catch  from  50  to  100  each  year  for  museums  and 
scientific  laboratories. 

Lynn  is  older  than  Boston,  having  been  settled  in  1629.  It  was 
originally  called  Saugus,  an  Indian  name  meaning  "extended."  In 
1637  the  town  was  named  in  honor  of  King's  Lynn,  in  Norfolk,  Eng- 
land; the  present  town  of  Saugus  was  set  off  in  1815  (p  480). 

From  the  beginning  it  has  been  a  manufacturing  community.  One 
of  the  first  settlers  was  a  tanner,  and  the  first  iron  works  in  New  Eng- 
land, in  which  John  Winthrop,  Jr.,  was  interested,  was  established 
in  Lynn  in  1642.  The  first  casting  made  in  America,  a  kettle,  is  shown 
in  the  Lynn  Public  Library.  The  site  of  the  ancient  foundry  was  on 
the  Saugus  river  near  Saugus  Center.  The  iron  was  taken  from 
neighboring  bogs,  which  also  supplied  peat  fuel.  The  shoe  industry 
was  firmly  established  in  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century. 
The  'back-yard'  shops  stood  beside  almost  every  house  in  town,  for 


632  LYNN— MARBLEHEAD 

the  average  family  earned  at  least  part  of  its  subsistence  by  making 
shoes  at  home.  The  introduction  of  the  sewing  machine  and  other 
machinery  replaced  these  shops  with  factories.  Before  1794  New 
England  shoes  had  hard  wooden  heels;  then  came  heels  with  springs 
inside;  finally  the  present  heel  destroyed  the  special  industry  of  heel- 
making.  Elihu  Thomson,  a  Philadelphia  chemistry  teacher,  laid  the 
foundations  of  another  great  industry.  His  electrical  inventions  and 
the  Thomson-Houston  Electric  Company  organized  thereon  led  to  the 
erection  of  a  large  plant  now  merged  with  the  General  Electric  Co. 

From  the  Common,  Essex  Street  offers  the  direct  route  to 
Salem,  but  the  more  attractive  route  is  along  the  shore.  From 
Washington  Square,  an  open  triangle  upon  which  face  the 
brick  Colonial  building  of  the  Lynn  Women's  Club  and  the 
Colonial  house  of  the  Oxford  Club,  the  route  turns  down 
Nahant  St.  to  the  Lynn  Shore  Drive.  The  residential  section 
bordering  on  the  ocean  front  is  uncommonly  attractive.  On 
the  drive,  midway  between  Prescott  Road  and  King  St.  is  the 
turreted  and  gargoyled  house  (1847)  of  Francis  Alexander, 
painter  of  familiar  portraits  of  Longfellow,  Dickens,  and  other 
celebrities.  Later  the  house  was  occupied  by  Daniel  Web- 
ster's son,  Fletcher.  From  King's  Beach  projects  Red  Rock, 
a  favorite  spot  with  Mrs.  Mary  Baker  Eddy,  who  wrote  "Sci- 
ence and  Health"  while  living  at  12  Broad  St.,  two  blocks 
inland.  This  drive  curves  around  King's  Beach,  following 
there  the  course  of  the  old  Puritan  Road,  dating  back  to  1629, 
one  of  the  oldest  highways  in  the  country.  On  the  left  is  the 
beautiful  Mudge  estate  with  a  memorial  church. 

17.5  SWAMPSCOTT.  Pop  (twp)  6204  (1910),  7345  (1915).  Essex 
Co.  Settled  1629.  Indian  name  Wonnesqitamsauke, 
"broken  waters"  or  "at  the  red  rock." 

This  is  a  residential  suburb  with  a  large  summer  hotel  and 
many  handsome  shore  estates.  The  cannon  in  Monument 
Square  were  captured  by  men  of  Swampscott  from  a  British 
frigate  in  the  War  of  1812.  At  Blaney's  Beach  is  the  Town 
Fish  House,  a  unique  municipal  institution  from  which  the 
fishermen  start  each  morning  for  the  fishing  grounds  off  shore, 
though  fish  are  becoming  "scurcer."  The  Blaney  house,  one 
of  the  oldest  in  the  town,  was  built  in  1650.  Beyond  Short 
Beach,  Galloupes  Point,  a  rocky  headland,  puts  out.  On  it 
is  the  old  Galloupe  house  and  the  residence  of  Dr.  S.  J.  Mixter. 
Further  north  is  Phillips  Point,  a  region  of  fine  residences 
adjacent  to  Phillips  Beach. 

The  original  derivation  of  Swampscott,  "Wonnesquamsauke,"  is 
said  to  mean  "broken  waters,"  referring  perhaps  to  the  "stern  and 
rock-bound  coast"  against  which  the  surf  breaks.  The  first  tannery 
in  the  United  States  was  established  here  by  Francis  Ingalls  in  1629. 
This  was  once  predominantly  a  fishing  town  and  here  was  invented 
the  'Swampscott  dory.'  Its  flat  bottom  and  wide  flare  give  it  such 
stability  that  it  is  now  universally  used  by  fishermen.  Swampscott 
is  the  scene  of  Hawthorne's  short  tale  "The  Village  Uncle." 


R.  36  §  I.     BOSTON  TO   NEWBURYPORT  633 

The  Metropolitan  Shore  Drive  terminates  at  Monument 
Square.  Hence  there  are  two  ways  of  reaching  Salem,  one 
inland  which  leads  up  through  the  Mudge  estate  to  Paradise 
Road,  thence  past  the  golf  links  of  the  Tedesco  Country  Club. 
The  other  leads  due  east  along  the  car  line  on  Humphrey  St. 
to  the  Fish  House,  where  a  turn  to  the  right  is  made  into  Puri- 
tan Road,  a  picturesque  driveway  which  follows  the  shore  for 
a  distance  of  about  two  miles  until  it  reaches  Atlantic  Ave. 
At  this  point  follow  the  car  tracks  bearing  to  the  left  at  the 
Tedesco  Country  Club,  where  the  main  Salem  line,  with  blue 
markers,  will  be  reached,  which  meets  the  following  detour  at 
the  Salem  Normal  School  (p  637). 
Detour  to  Marblehead.  6.0  m. 

Starting  at  Monument  Square  follow  car  tracks  to  the  Fish 
House,  thence  into  Puritan  Road  passing  the  New  Ocean 
House  at  Whale's  Beach,  as  far  as  Atlantic  Ave.,  continuing 
east  on  Atlantic  Ave.  past  the  Hotel  Preston  at  Beach  Bluff. 

Beyond  is  Clifton  (1.5)  with  a  cluster  of  attractive  residences 
on  a  bold  shore.  Dike  Rock,  noted  among  geologists,  is  a 
granite  formation  cut  by  many  intrusive  dikes  of  different 
materials.  Further  on  across  the  fields  is  the  Devereux  man- 
sion, a  structure  of  comparatively  recent  date  on  the  site  of 
an  old  farmhouse  visited  by  Longfellow  in  1846  and  celebrated 
in  "The  Fire  of  Driftwood." 

"We  sat  within  the  farm-house  old, 

Whose  windows,  looking  o'er  the  bay, 
Gave  to  the  sea  breeze  damp  and  cold 
An  easy  entrance  night  and  day." 

3.0    MARBLEHEAD.     Pop  (twp)  7338  (1910),  7606  (1915).    Essex 
Co.     Settled  1629.    Mfg.  shoes,  yachts,  and  aeroplanes. 

No  modern  industrial  invasion  has  marred  the  charm  and 
quaintness  of  this  "strange  oldfashioned  silent  town."  Its 
narrow  rambling  streets  and  its  ancient  houses  amid  its  granite 
ledges  remain  much  as  for  two  centuries,  except  that  a  growing 
appreciation  for  what  is  ancient  and  for  the  numerous  summer 
residents,  yachtsmen,  and  tourists  has  resulted  in  some  refur- 
bishing of  the  old  houses,  and  the  multiplication  of  tea  rooms 
and  gift  shops.  Marblehead  everywhere  savors  of  the  sea 
and  of  the  old  fishing  and  privateering  days,  and  recalls  vivid 
memories  of  the  Revolution,  which  the  Marblehead  inhabi- 
tants took  most  intensely.  It  has  sometimes  been  called  the 
"Birthplace  of  the  American  Navy."  Tht  deep,  well-pro- 
tected harbor,  unhampered  by  commercial  traffic,  makes  it 
today  the  yachting  center  of  the  North  Shore,  as  in  earlier 
days  it  was  of  privateering.  During  the  season  it  is  crowded 
with  pleasure  craft  of  every  description.  On  the  further  shore 
are  the  Eastern  and  the  Corinthian  Yacht  Clubs.  Overlook- 


634  MARBLEHEAD 

ing  the  harbor  is  the  Hotel  Rockmere,  and  not  far  off  are  the 
yacht  yards  of  W.  Starling  Burgess  and  the  aerodrome  of  the 
Curtiss  Aeroplane  Company. 

Marblehead  Neck,  like  Nahant  once  an  island,  is  joined  to 
the  mainland  by  a  narrow  neck  of  sand  and  gravel  over  which 
the  road  runs.  The  'Neck,'  as  this  rocky  peninsula  is  called, 
is  a  favorite  summer  resort  for  well-to-do  Boston  people.  Along 
its  ragged  shore  rocky  ledges  alternate  with  little  stretches  of 
sandy  beach.  The  ledges  are  interesting  geologically.  Often 
within  a  few  paces  fully  a  score  of  dikes  of  intrusive  rock  of 
different  periods,  character,  and  color  may  be  seen  criss-crossing 
and  cutting  each  other.  The  Churn,  through  which  the  surf 
spouts  and  roars,  is  a  narrow  chasm  in  the  rock  formed  by  the 
wearing  away  of  such  a  dike  of  softer  material. 

Washington  Street  with  its  continuation,  Orne  Street,  is  the 
straightest  thoroughfare  in  the  town.  Along  its  course  are 
most  of  the  historic  sites  and  houses;  at  the  head  of  Wash- 
ington St.  stands  Abbot  Hall,  whose  tower,  together  with  the 
spire  of  St.  Michael's  Church,  nearby,  dominates  the  town. 
The  former  is  the  Town  Hall;  in  it  hangs  the  famous  and 
much  copied  painting  by  A.  M.  Willard,  "The  Spirit  of  '76." 
The  Colonel  William  Lee  mansion  (open  April  to  October; 
free),  opposite  Abbot  Hall,  was  designed  by  Bulfinch,  the 
architect  of  the  Boston  State  House.  Its  drawing  room  is 
hung  with  a  hand-painted  wall  paper.  Colonel  Lee  enter- 
tained Washington  and  also  Lafayette  here.  The  Jeremiah  Lee 
mansion  (open  daily  in  summer;  adm.  10  cents),  built  in 
1768,  a  little  further  down  Washington  St.,  is  one  of  the  finest 
and  most  elaborately  furnished  of  the  period.  Long  utilized 
as  banking  offices  it  was  in  1909  acquired  by  the  Historical 
Society.  It  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  antiques; 
the  interior  finish  with  its  mahogany  wainscoting  and  the 
well-preserved  wall  paper  is  well  worth  seeing.  The  large 
kitchen  was  equipped  to  provide  for  a  banquet  of  a  hundred. 
Its  hospitable  builder,  the  wealthy  merchant  Jeremiah  Lee,  took 
an  active  part  in  the  beginning  of  the  Revolution  and  died  of 
fever  contracted  while  hiding  from  the  British  in  the  corn- 
field behind  the  Black  Horse  Tavern  near  Lexington  (p  430). 

On  Summer  St.  just  to  the  left  of  Washington  is  St.  Michael's 
(1714),  one  of  the  oldest  Episcopal  Churches  in  America.  The 
interior  contains  an  ancient  reredos  brought  from  England,  an 
English  brass  chandelier  of  1732,  and  a  communion  service  of 
1745.  The  old  Town  Hall  (1727)  is  Marblehead's  'Cradle  of 
Liberty.'  In  its  loft  the  instigators  of  the  Revolution  met  in 
secret  to  conspire  against  England,  and  here  Glover  recruited 
his  famous  regiment. 


R.  36  §    I.     BOSTON   TO   NEWBURYPORT  635 

Nearly  opposite  is  the  birthplace  and  ancestral  home  of  Chief 
Justice  Story.  On  the  right,  in  State  St.,  facing  a  little  square, 
is  the  plain  old  mansion  of  the  shoemaker  patriot  John  Glover. 
He  commanded  the  2ist  Massachusetts  foot,  or  "amphibious 
regiment,"  all  but  four  of  the  nine  hundred  Marblehead  sea- 
men, whose  skill  made  possible  the  retreat  of  the  Continental 
forces  from  Long  Island  and  saved  the  day  at  Trenton  by 
ferrying  the  army  across  the  Delaware. 

Skipper  Ireson's  house  is  perhaps  the  first  thing  visitors  to 
Marblehead  wish  to  see,  and  the  last  thing  Marblehead  people 
care  to  show;  they  resent  the  mis- fame  bestowed  upon  the  town 
by  VVhittier's  best  known  poem.  The  house  is  at  'Oakum 
Bay,'  a  curious  jog  in  Circle  St.,  near  the  corner,  a  little  north 
of  the  Glover  house.  Off  Highland  Light  Ireson  sighted  a 
wreck  when  rescue  was  impossible.  He  went  below  leaving 
orders  to  "stand  by  until  morning,"  which,  however,  his 
crew  disobeyed.  Whittier's  popular  poem,  in  the  old  Marble- 
head  dialect, — 

"Flud  Oirson,  fur  his  horrd  horrt, 
Torr'd  an'  futherr'd  an'  corr'd  in  a  corrt 
By  the  women  o'  Morble'ead!" 

undoubtedly  did  injustice  to  both  Ireson  and  the  women  of  the 
town.  Tarred  he  was,  but  the  women  of  Marblehead,  "  wrinkled 
scolds"  or  "girls  in  bloom,"  had  nothing  to  do  with  the  ride. 
Whittier  himself  apologetically  wrote:  "My  verse  was  solely 
founded  on  a  fragment  of  rhyme  which  I  heard  from  one  of  my 
schoolmates,  a  native  of  Marblehead.  I  certainly  would  not 
do  injustice  to  any  one,  dead  or  living."  A  later  poet  has  come 
to  the  vigorous  defense  of  Ireson : — 

"Old  Flood  Ireson!  all  too  long 

Have  jeer  and  jibe  and  ribald  song 

Done  thy  memory  cruel  wrong." 

Nearly  opposite  the  old  North  Church  at  44  State  St.  is  the 
old  Gerry  House,  birthplace  of  Elbridge  Gerry,  patriot, 
'signer,'  politician,  Governor,  and  Vice-president  of  the  United 
States.  His  name  is  perpetuated  in  the  term  "gerrymander," 
a  form  of  political  manipulation  which  he  devised  when  Gover- 
nor of  Massachusetts  in  1811  by  cunningly  redistricting  Essex 
County,  snatching  political  victory  from  apparent  defeat. 

Near  the  corner  of  Franklin  St.  is  the  house  of  Colonel  Azor 
Orne,  colleague  of  Gerry  and  Glover.  He  loaned  the  Govern- 
ment a  barrel  of  silver  dollars  which  was  never  repaid, — an 
early  instance  of  the  Federal  Government's  bad  faith.  The 
street  from  here  on  bears  Orne's  name.  This  region  of  the 
town  beyond  was  formerly  known  as  Barnegat,  from  the  cele- 
brated Barnegat  pirate  shore  of  New  Jersey,  because  it  had  the 
reputation,  in  early  days,  of  harboring  pirates  and  smugglers. 


636  MARBLEHE  AD— SALEM 

42  Orne  St.  is  the  "Old  Brig"  where  Moll  Pitcher,  the  fortune- 
teller of  Lynn,  passed  her  girlhood  and  where  she  learned  from 
her  father,  old  John  Dimond,  how  to  practice  the  'black  arts.' 
According  to  popular  belief,  'Old  Dimond'  from  a  nearby 
rocky  hill  on  dark  and  stormy  nights  gave  orders  in  a  loud  voice 
to  the  helmsmen  of  ships  far  out  at  sea.  His  neighbors  never 
doubted  his  ability  thus  to  bring  a  vessel  safely  into  port. 

'Shinbone  Alley'  was  the  name  of  a  narrow  lane  from  the 
beach  to  the  Fountain  Inn,  where  Fountain  Park  is  now.  Here 
the  well  of  the  old  inn  still  remains,  but  the  inn  itself  was  torn 
down  in  1779.  The  pretty  romance  of  Agnes  Surriage,  the  maid 
of  the  inn,  survives  as  one  of  the  cherished  legends  of  the  town; 
it  gave  both  Holmes  and  Longfellow  the  theme  for  poems,  and 
Alice  Brown  and  E.  L.  Bynner  founded  novels  upon  it. 

In  1742  the  young  and  dashing  Sir  Henry  Frankland,  royal  sur- 
veyor of  customs  at  the  port  of  Boston,  came  upon  this  "beauteous 
maiden"  as  in  tattered  and  scanty  raiment  she  scrubbed  the  floor  of 
the  inn.  Captivated  by  her  sweetness  and  charm  he  made  her  his 
mistress.  Rescued  by  the  ever-faithful  Agnes,  when  in  the  great 
Lisbon  earthquake  of  1755  he  was  buried  in  the  ruins,  his  conscience 
smote  him,  and  he  made  her  Lady  Frankland. 

Above  is  the  old  burying  hill  where  stood  the  first  meeting 
house.  In  the  crevices  of  this  rocky  elevation  are  the  remains 
of  Marblehead's  historic  dead.  The  white  shaft  commemorates 
those  "Lost  on  the  Grand  Banks  of  Newfoundland  in  the  memo- 
rable gale  of  November  19,  1846.  ...  65  men  and  boys;  43 
heads  of  families,  leaving  155  fatherless  children."  Further 
on  is  old  Fort  Sewall,  now  a  public  park,  which  with  Peach's 
Point  encloses  Little  Harbor.  The  latter  is  now  a  favorite 
place  of  summer  residence.  The  Robert  D.  Evans  house, 
occupied  at  Beverly  by  President  Taft  as  the  'summer  White 
House'  for  two  seasons,  was  later  cut  in  two,  floated  across 
the  bay  and  re-erected  here. 

Originally  a  part  of  Salem,  and  known  as  Marble  Harbor  from  the 
vari-colored  rocks  of  its  shores,  Marblehead  was  separated  from 
Salem  in  1640.  The  mother  town  did  not  repine,  as  the  seceding 
population  was  so  turbulent  as  to  be  a  byword.  Years  after  the  fol- 
lowing anecdote  was  rife:  A  traveler  passing  through  Lynn  asked  the 
way  to  Marblehead.  The  road  was  pointed  out.  "But  how  shall 
I  know  when  I  get  there?"  "Well,  by  the  time  your  buggy-top's 
pretty  well  stove  in  and  your  head's  'most  knocked  off,  you'll  know 
you're  there."  About  1700,  emigrants  from  the  Channel  Islands 
settled  here,  speaking  the  peculiar  dialect  that  is  still  occasionally 
heard  there.  A  rough,  sturdy,  seafaring  folk,  the  citizens  of  Marble- 
head  were  foremost  among  the  patriots  of  the  Revolution.  In  fact 
the  town  claims  the  palm  of  Lexington  and  Concord  because  of  the 
"Rose"  incident  of  1769.  A  press-gang  sent  aboard  a  Marblehead 
brig  off  Cape  Ann  by  the  British  sloop  "Rose"  met  with  resistance, 
and  in  the  ensuing  three-hour  hand-to-hand  fight  a  British  lieuten- 
ant was  stabbed  with  a  harpoon  and  two  Americans  killed.  The 
powder  house  (1759)  has  lasted  through  four  wars. 


R.  36    §   I.      BOSTON   TO   NEWBURYPORT  637 

At  the  close  of  the  Revolution  there  were  1000  orphans  and  500 
widows  in  Marblehead.  Not  a  whit  discouraged,  when  the  War  of 
1812  broke  out  Marblehead  sailors  again  came  to  the  fore.  The  great 
victories  of  the  "Constitution"  were  regarded  as  almost  a  local  triumph 
because  more  than  half  the  "Constitution's"  crew  were  Marblehead 
men.  The  engagement  of  the  "Chesapeake"  and  the  "Shannon" 
took  place  in  sight  of  Marblehead  in  June,  1813.  Of  the  1000  Marble- 
head  men  in  the  War  of  1812,  700  or  more  were  in  British  prisons  at 
its  close.  Lincoln's  first  call  for  troops  did  not  reach  the  town  until 
late  at  night,  but  the  first  company  to  report  at  Faneuil  Hall  the  next 
morning  was  from  Marblehead.  The  town's  patriotism  had  had  to  be 
her  only  reward.  Her  prosperity  as  a  leading  port  of  pre-Revolutionary 
times  is  absolutely  gone;  from  that  day  she  has  been  little  more  than 
a  village,  almost  destroyed  by  fire  in  1877  and  1888. 

From  Marblehead  the  route  follows  Pleasant  St.  with  the 
trolley  across  R.R.  at  Devereux  Station  (4.0)  and  bears  right 
with  the  trolley  at  the  fork  across  R.R.  at  Forest  Station. 
Just  before  crossing  Forest  River  the  road  passes  a  plain 
stretching  back  to  the  left  on  the  highland  above.  Here  it 
was  first  proposed  to  locate  Harvard  College.  At  a  Salem 
town  meeting  in  May,  1635,  the  application  for  this  land  was 
referred  to  a  committee  to  "consider  of  the  premises  least  it 
should  hinder  the  building  of  a  colledge  wh  would  be  manie 
mens  losse."  The  road  rejoins  the  direct  route  at  the  iron 
trough  in  the  triangle  at  the  Salem  Normal  School  (6.0). 

23.5     SALEM.    Pop  43,697  (1910),  37,200  (1915);  one  third  foreign- 
born.     Shire  town  of  Essex  Co.     Settled  1626.     Indian  name 
Naumkeag.    Mfg.    cotton,    leather,    and   shoes.      Value    of 
Product  (1913),  $17,344,000;  Payroll,  $3,370,000. 
Salem  to  most  people  brings  to  mind  witches  and  Nathaniel 
Hawthorne.     True  it  hung  more  witches  than  any  other  town, 
but  there  had  been  witch-baiting  and  witch-hanging  in  other 
towns  in  New  England  for  half  a  century  before  ever  a  witch 
appeared  in  Salem.     Hawthorne  was  a  native  of  Salem,  but 
lived  much  in  other  portions  of  New  England. 

The  glory  of  Salem's  past  was  in  her  foreign  commerce. 
During  the  latter  part  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  ships  of 
Salem  were  found  in  every  commercial  port  of  the  world.  The 
credit  of  opening  India,  China,  and  the  entire  East  to  American 
commerce  is  due  to  her  merchants.  The  records  of  the  old 
days  are  rich  in  the  romance  of  trade,  and  it  was  through  their 
daring  initiative  that  her  merchant  princes  waxed  wealthy. 

The  old  Salem,  staid  and  thrifty,  a  world  to  itself,  seems  to 
have  retired  from  active  business  to  live  on  the  accumulations 
of  the  past.  Many  descendants  of  the  oldtime  merchant 
princes  became  Bostonians.  Others  lost  their  civic  pride  and 
were  indifferent  to  Salem's  fall  into  political  and  economic 
decay.  Its  hardy  perennial  Mayor,  'Silk  Hat  Hurley,'  and 
its  'Boy  Mayor'  have  not  won  the  community  respect  from 


638  SALEM 

without.  Corrupt  conditions  and  civic  neglect  were  largely 
contributory  to  the  disastrous  fire  which  so  nearly  wiped  out 
the  city.  A  recent  writer  on  Salem  seems  to  have  been  most 
impressed  with  the  "filthy  railway  station"  and  the  fact  that 
the  witches,  Salem's  most  widely  known  historic  asset,  were 
all  five  miles  away  at  Danvers,  and  that  even  Gallows  Hill  is 
a  mile  west  of  the  town.  But  since  Louise  Closser  Hale  discov- 
ered New  England  the  station,  it  is  reported,  has  been  painted. 

Stung  by  such  comment  and  stimulated  by  the  disastrous 
fire,  there  has  of  late  been  an  awakening  of  civic  pride,  an 
attempt  to  better  conditions  both  political  and  material.  The 
recent  election  to  the  mayoralty  of  Henry  P.  Benson,  brother 
of  the  artist,  is  the  most  significant  indication  of  a  new  spirit. 

The  interest  of  the  city  today  is  in  the  old  houses,  museums, 
and  relics  with  which  she  is  still  so  richly  endowed.  The  city 
is  in  truth  a  storehouse  of  antiquities  and  its  architecture  has 
been  a  source  of  inspiration  to  modern-time  builders.  The 
fine  old  doorways  of  the  Colonial  mansions  are  a  feast  for  the 
eyes;  the  oldtime  interiors,  the  carved  mantels,  the  hand- 
some wainscots,  were  likewise  the  work  of  cunning  craftsmen 
who  wrought  with  conscientious  pride.  Salem's  foremost  ar- 
chitect was  Samuel  Mclntire,  who  in  the  latter  years  of  the 
eighteenth  century  elaborated  the  tradition  of  the  brothers 
Adam  in  the  mansions  of  Salem's  mariner  princes  (p  46). 

Three  generations  since  there  was  a  migration  of  old  Salem 
families  to  Boston,  as  in  the  removal  of  the  merchant  prince, 
Handyside  Perkins.  In  late  years  there  has  been  a  return 
current  which  has  given  Salem  an  artist  colony,  including  such 
names  as  Philip  Little,  the  late  Ross  Turner,  Frank  W.  Benson, 
I.  H.  Caliga,  and  L.  H.  Bridgman,  the  illustrator. 

Since  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century  Salem's  mari- 
time importance  has  steadily  declined.  Her  shipping  is  now 
limited  to  coal-carrying  sailing  vessels  and  barges,  and  the  old 
wharves  now  land  no  more  precious  commodity.  Manufac- 
turing interests  have  saved  Salem  from  a  mellow  desuetude. 
The  Naumkeag  Cotton  Mills  are  the  overshadowing  manu- 
facturing interest,  which  has  so  transformed  the  population 
that  one  third  are  foreign-born  and  two  thirds  are  of  foreign 
parentage.  Their  great  mills,  destroyed  in  the  1914  fire,  have 
been  re-erected  in  more  substantial  form  and  the  company 
has  built  blocks  of  model  tenements.  Tanning  and  leather 
are  also  important  industries.  Where  the  tanneries  are  located, 
in  the  region  near  the  station,  known  as  Blubber  Hollow,  the 
1914  fire  started.  The  product  of  the  tanning  industry  has 
a  value  of  over  $17,000,000. 

Salem  is  built  mainly  on  a  peninsula.     Salem  Harbor  lies 


R.  36  §  i.     BOSTON   TO   NEWBURYPORT  639 

between  the  peninsula  and  Marblehead,  so  admirably  situated 
for  the  oldtime  commerce,  but  too  shallow  for  the  ocean 
steamships  of  today. 

The  Peabody  Museum  (open  free  daily),  on  Essex  St.,  was 
founded  by  the  gift  in  1867  of  George  Peabody  (p  514).  It  oc- 
cupies the  old  hall  of  the  East  India  Marine  Society  and  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  museums  in  the  country.  Especially 
interesting  are  the  models,  pictures,  and  mementos  of  the  old- 
time  merchant  ships  which  brought  Salem  her  prosperity. 
There  are  interesting  ethnological  and  natural  history  collec- 
tions and  specimens  of  Oriental  arts  and  crafts.  These  col- 
lections originated  with  the  curios  brought  home  by  ship 
captains  from  foreign  ports.  The  Marine  Society  was  organized 
in  1799  as  a  benevolent  association  to  aid  widows  and  children. 
Its  membership  was  limited  to  "persons  who  had  actually 
navigated  the  seas  beyond  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  or  Cape 
Horn  as  masters  or  supercargoes  belonging  to  Salem." 

A  little  further  down  the  street  is  the  Essex  Institute  (open 
free  daily),  another  famous  scientific  organization.  It  occu- 
pies two  brick  buildings  on  the  site  of  Governor  Bradstreet's 
mansion  and  William  H.  Prescott's  birthplace.  Its  museum 
contains  the  largest  collection  of  antiquarian  and  historical 
objects  illustrating  the  life  of  the  early  New  England  settler. 
There  are  three  type-rooms,  a  New  England  kitchen  of  1750 
and  a  bedroom  and  parlor  of  1800.  The  picture  gallery  con- 
tains many  portraits  by  Stuart,  Copley,  Trumbull,  etc.  In 
the  rear  of  the  building,  and  approached  through  it,  is  the  old 
John  Ward  house,  built  in  1684,  with  an  overhanging  second 
story;  it  is  furnished  in  the  manner  of  that  time.  In  the 
lean-to  is  an  apothecary  shop  of  1825;  nearby  is  an  old- 
fashioned  shoemaker's  shop  of  1830.  Near  the  back  door  is 
a  well-sweep  and  a  garden  of  the  flowers  and  herbs  that  were 
grown  in  Salem  before  1700.  The  libraries  housed  in  the 
Essex  Institute  contain  valuable  collections  of  old  and  rare 
books.  Behind  the  Institute  is  the  little  first  Quaker  Meeting 
House,  built  in  1686  by  Thomas  Maule.  Formerly  this  was 
traditionally  known  as  the  Roger  Williams  Church.  A 
doorway  from  the  Grimshaw  house  is  preserved  close  by. 

Nathaniel  Hawthorne,  the  somber  chronicler  of  New  Eng- 
land's austerity,  was  born  in  1804  in  the  little  gambrel-roofed 
house,  27  Union  St.,  just  off  Essex  St.  to  the  right.  Between 
Elm  and  Walnut  Sts.,  half  a  block  away,  the  new  Hawthorne 
Place  Park  has  been  made,  for  which  Bela  Pratt  has  modeled 
a  statue  of  the  author.  Much  of  his  boyhood  was  spent  in 
the  Manning  house,  12  Herbert  St.,  where  his  room  in  the 
southwest  corner  of  the  third  story  overlooked  his  birthplace. 


640  SALEM 

Of  it  he  writes:  "Here  I  sit  in  my  old  accustomed  chamber,  where 
I  used  to  sit  in  days  gone  by.  Here  I  have  written  many  tales.  Should 
I  have  a  biographer,  he  ought  to  make  great  mention  of  this  chamber  in 
my  memoirs,  because  much  of  my  lonely  youth  was  wasted  here."  At 
another  time  he  said,  "In  this  dismal  chamber  Fame  was  won."  When 
he  lost  his  position  at  the  Custom  House  it  was  to  yet  another  house, 
14  Maule  St.,  that  he  came  to  tell  his  wife  the  sad  news;  but  when  she 
heard  it  she  only  said:  "Very  well!  Now  you  can  write  your  romance." 
And  so  "The  Scarlet  Letter"  was  written.  It  was  there,  too,  that 
James  T,  Fields  found  him  and  had  the  conversation  of  which  he  later 
wrote  in  "Yesterdays  with  Authors."  Hawthorne  belonged  to  an 
old  Salem  family;  ^udge  Hathorne,  before  whom  the  witches  were 
tried,  was  one  of  his  ancestors.  For  generations  the  family  had  fol- 
lowed the  sea,  but  Hawthorne  failed  to  see  the  thrill  and  romance  in 
this  old  seafaring,  privateering  life. 

Derby  Street,  along  the  waterfront,  recalls  the  ancient  days 
of  Salem's  glorious  ocean  enterprise.  Here  is  the  stately  pil- 
lared Custom  House,  built  in  1819  when  the  port  had  already 
begun  to  decline;  here  Hawthorne  at  his  desk,  now  in  the 
Essex  Institute,  first  thought  out  and  made  his  notes  for 
"The  Scarlet  Letter."  Just  opposite  is  the  old  Derby  Wharf, 
where  the  rich  cargoes  from  the  Orient  and  plunder  from  cap- 
tured vessels  were  unloaded. 

The  House  of  the  Seven  Gables  (adm.  25  cents),  built  in 
1669,  but  much  restored,  is  at  59  Turner  St.  Here  Hawthorne 
frequently  visited  his  cousin.  Six  of  the  rooms  with  a  secret 
staircase  are  shown.  At  the  old  Grimshawe  house,  53  Charter 
St.,  Hawthorne  courted  Sophia  Peabody,  who  became  his  wife. 
This  is  the  scene  of  two  of  Hawthorne's  stories,  "Dr.  Grim- 
shawe's  Secret"  and  "The  Dolliver  Romance."  The  building 
was  seriously  damaged  by  fire  in  1915;  when  repaired  the 
beautiful  old  doorway  was  removed  and  is  now  in  the  rear  of 
Essex  Institute.  The  house,  recently  purchased  by  a  Greek 
dancing-master,  has  been  transformed  into  a  hotel  for  the 
delectation  of  tourists  who  like  to  say  they  have  spent  a  night 
in  it.  In  the  adjoining  old  "Burying  Point"  repose  the  re- 
mains of  Governor  Bradstreet,  Chief  Justice  Lynde,  Colonel 
John  Hathorne,  one  of  the  magistrates  at  the  witch  trials  and 
an  ancestor  of  Nathaniel,  and  other  early  worthies. 

Westward  on  Essex  St.  is  the  Public  Library,  formerly  the 
town  house  of  John  Bertram,  a  merchant  prince  whose  widow 
bequeathed  his  residence  to  the  city  for  its  present  use.  At 
the  corner  of  North  St.  is  the  Corwin  or  'Witch  House,'  said 
to  have  been  the  property  of  Roger  Williams.  Here  were 
held  some  of  the  preliminary  examinations  of  the  witches. 
The  house,  much  changed,  has  a  drug  store  built  in  front. 

The  Ropes  Memorial,  318  Essex  St.,  the  homestead  of  Judge 
Nathaniel  Ropes  (1726-74),  contains  interesting  old  furniture, 
china,  glass,  and  Colonial  relics.  (Open  free  Tues.,  Thurs., 


R.  36  §  i.     BOSTON   TO   NEWBURYPORT  641 

Sat.,  2-5  P.M.,  April  to  December.  Its  oldfashioned  garden 
is  open  every  afternoon  except  Monday.) 

Chestnut  Street,  lined  with  elms  and  stately  houses,  many 
of  them  still  occupied  by  descendants  of  the  early  families,  is 
one  of  the  finest  old  streets  in  America.  Philip  Little,  the 
painter,  lives  at  No.  10.  In  Broad  St.  is  the  fine  old  Pick- 
ering house  (1660)  always  in  the  possession  of  the  one  family. 

The  old  brick  Court  House,  on  Federal  St.,  contains  the 
original  warrants  on  which  the  nineteen  witchcraft  victims 
were  executed,  and  some  of  the  famous  'witch  pins,'  whose 
devilish  powers  of  torment  were  so  efficacious  in  producing 
confession.  The  Pierce-Nichols  house,  on  Federal  St.,  built 
in  1782,  is  typical  of  old  Salem  at  its  best;  it  is  filled  with  fine 
old  Sheraton  and  Hepplewhite  furniture,  carved  Chinese 
chairs,  and  other  acquisitions  of  the  ancient  seafaring  family 
who  furnished  their  house  from  the  four  quarters  of  the  earth. 
In  the  rear  is  a  Spanish  courtyard  with  a  terraced  English 
garden  running  down  to  the  water.  At  the  old  Assembly 
House,  128  Federal  St.,  Washington  attended  a  ball  where 
"there  was  at  least  a  hundred  handsome  and  well-dressed 
ladies"  as  he  remarks  in  his  diary.  Lafayette,  too,  was 
impressed  with  the  brilliance  of  the  reception  tendered  him 
here,  writing:  "Mais  ce  fut  a  Salem  que  1'eclat  de  sa  reception 
se  fit  particulierement  remarquer." 

The  peninsula  of  Salem  is  prolonged  into  Salem  Neck,  where 
are  the  city  Poor  Farm,  Fort  Lee,  and  Salem  Willows,  a  water- 
side park  and  pleasure  ground  thronged  by  holiday-makers. 
The  Salem  Cadet  Band  plays  here  frequently  in  summer. 
The  willows  themselves  are  of  astonishing  size;  many  of  them 
over  a  century  old.  On  Winter  Island  in  Salem  Bay  is  Fort 
Pickering;  some  miles  out  toward  the  ocean  are  Bakers,  Little 
Misery,  and  Great  Misery  Islands.  The  bay  is  a  favorite 
harbor  of  refuge;  when  a  storm  is  in  prospect  scores  of  schoon- 
ers hurry  in  from  off  Cape  Ann  instead  of  making  for  Gloucester. 

Salem,  after  Plymouth,  is  the  oldest  permanent  settlement  in  New 
England.  It  was  settled  in  1626  as  a  commercial  venture  by  Roger 
Conant  and  others  who  planned  to  prosper  partly  by  agriculture  and 
partly  by  furnishing  winter  quarters  for  the  fishermen  from  the  Banks. 
The  first  Governor,  John  Endicott,  made  this  the  capital  of  the  Colony 
until  superseded  by  Winthrop,  the  first  governor  of  the  Massachusetts 
Bay  Company,  who  landed  here  in  1630  and  soon  removed  the  seat  of 
government  to  Boston.  It  was  at  Salem  that  Endicott,  in  his  Puri- 
tanical zeal,  cut  the  cross  from  the  British  flag  with  his  sword. 

At  first  known  by  the  Indian  name,  Naumkeag,  the  town  later 
received  the  Scriptural  name  of  Salem,  meaning  "Peace."  Though 
not  at  first  a  religious  settlement,  the  rigors  of  Puritanism  soon  crept 
in;  in  1631  Philip  Radcliffe,  after  having  a  scourging  and  his  ears 
clipped  off,  was  banished  and  his  property  confiscated,  "for  blasphemy 
against  the  church  of  Salem,  the  mother-church  of  all  this  Holy  Land!" 


642  SALEM 


The  record  adds,  "And  thus  wee  doubt  not  that  God  will  be  with  us, 
and  if  God  be  with  us,  who  can  be  against  us?  " 

It  was  not  until  1692  that  the  epidemic  of  witchcraft,  which  so  un- 
justly made  Salem  infamous,  reached  here.  The  earliest  instances 
of  witchcraft  in  New  England  occurred  half  a  century  before  this  on 
the  Connecticut  coast  (p  90),  and  in  the  succeeding  decades  flourished 
all  through  that  section  (p  116).  There  had  also  been  executions  for 
witchcraft  in  Plymouth,  Charlestown,  and  Boston  before  those  in 
Salem.  But  Salem  has  had  repeated  chroniclers,  from  Cotton  Mather's 
"Wonders  of  the  Invisible  World"  to  Longfellow's  "New  England 
Tragedies,"  with  the  result  that  in  the  popular  mind  witches  and 
Salem  are  inseparable.  In  fact  witchcraft  came  late  to  Salem  and 
lasted  a  very  short  time,  but  in  that  period  twenty  suffered  death  and 
many  others  were  tortured.  The  notoriety  that  came  upon  the  town 
is  not  due  only  to  the  cruelty  practiced  then,  for  the  Quakers  had  been 
treated  before  this  with  even  great  rigor.  In  1658  Margaret,  the  wife 
of  John  Smith,  a  freeman  and  member  of  the  Salem  church,  became 
a  Quaker;  although  feeble  in  health  she  was  cast  into  prison  and  con- 
demned to  ten  stripes  in  the  snow-covered  market  place. 

The  witchcraft  excitement  began  in  1692  at  that  rustic  suburb, 
Salem  Village,  now  Danvers.  Ten  girls,  from  nine  to  seventeen  years 
old,  met  in  the  house  of  one  Samuel  Parris,  a  minister,  to  learn  palm- 
istry and  "magic  tricks"  from  an  Indian  slave  woman,  Tituba  by 
name.  Naturally  witchcraft  was  discussed;  before  long  they  accused 
Tituba  and  two  unfortunate  old  women  of  bewitching  them.  The 
hysteria  spread;  nineteen  unfortunates  were  hanged  on  Gallows  Hill, 
a  mile  west  of  the  town,  and  one  was  pressed  to  death.  The  epidemic 
lasted  only  about  a  year  and  resulted  in  a  strong  reaction  in  1693  with 
the  release  of  the  remaining  accused  prisoners  (p  690). 

One  of  the  earliest  shipmasters  of  Salem,  and  one  who  did  most  to 
make  it  a  great  shipping  port,  was  Philip  English,  who  came  to  Salem 
in  1670.  By  1690  he  was  perhaps  the  richest  man  of  the  New  England 
Colony,  owning  twenty-one  vessels  in  trade  with  the  West  Indies  and 
the  ports  of  France.  The  credit  of  opening  the  Far  East  to  American 
commerce  is  due  largely  to  Elias  H.  Derby,  whose  courage  and  enter- 
prise led  him  to  challenge  the  monopoly  of  the  English  and  Dutch  in 
this  rich  commerce.  In  1784  he  opened  up  the  first  American  trade 
direct  with  Russia.  In  1788  his  ship  "Atlantic"  first  displayed  the 
American  flag  in  the  leading  Asiatic  ports.  Between  1785  and  1799 
he  fitted  out  thirty-seven  vessels  for  125  voyages  to  foreign  ports.  His 
last  venture  illustrates  well  his  daring  enterprise.  He  equipped  the 
"Mt.  Vernon"  with  twenty  guns  and  fifty  men  after  hostilities  between 
France  and  the  United  States  had  broken  out,  and  sent  her  to  the 
Mediterranean  with  a  $43,000  cargo  of  sugar.  Attacking  French  cruis- 
ers were  driven  off,  port  was  made,  and  the  sugar  exchanged  for  silks 
and  wine  at  a  net  profit  of  $100,000.  Derby  left  an  estate  of  $1,500,000, 
the  largest  fortune  then  accumulated  in  the  nation.  Joseph  Peabody, 
another  Salem  sea-magnate,  at  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury owned  eighty-three  ships,  shipped  7000  seamen  and  promoted 
forty-five  cabin  boys  to  captains.  The  English  navigation  laws  struck 
Salem  hard;  not  only  were  the  rich  merchants  endangered  in  trade, 
but  the  whole  community  had  thus  invested  their  savings.  Ways 
were  found  to  evade  the  laws.  A  newspaper  account  of  1786  tells 
how  one  Row,  a  Custom  House  boatman  or  "tide-waiter"  who  had 
given  information  of  such  evasion,  "was  taken  from  one  of  the  wharves 
and  conducted  to  the  Common  where  his  head,  body,  and  limbs  were 
covered  with  warm  tar,  and  then  a  large  quantity  of  feathers  were 
applied  to  all  parts,  which,  by  closely  adhering  to  the  tar,  exhibited  an 
odd  figure,  the  drollery  of  which  can  easily  be  imagined.  The  poor 


R.  36   §    I.      BOSTON    TO    NEWBURYPORT  643 

waiter  was  then  exalted  to  a  seat  on  the  front  of  the  cart  and  in  this 
manner  led  into  the  Main  Street,  where  a  paper  with  the  word  'In- 
former' thereon,  in  large  letters,  was  affixed  to  his  breast,  and  another 
paper  with  the  same  word  to  his  back." 

When  the  Boston  Port  Bill  closed  the  Port  of  Boston,  Salem  became 
the  seat  of  government.  Here  the  first  Provincial  Congress  of  Massa- 
chusetts met  and  on  Feb.  26,  1775,  at  the  North  Bridge,  the  first 
armed  resistance  was  offered  to  royal  troops,  sent  to  find  cannon  hidden 
in  the  North  Fields,  and  held  in  check  at  this  point  by  the  townspeople. 

By  the  close  of  the  Revolution  Salem's  158  armed  vessels  with  their 
2000  guns  had  taken  445  prizes,  losing  but  fifty-one  of  their  own  num- 
ber. In  1794  the  community  owned  160  vessels;  by  1805  this  number 
had  increased  to  230.  At  this  time  cargoes  frequently  realized  800 
per  cent.  The  embargo  of  1807  and  the  ensuing  seizures  by  Britain 
and  France  effectually  ruined  this  source  of  profit. 

In  the  War  of  1812  Salem  sent  forth  forty  privateers  and  built  the 
famous  frigate  "Essex"  which  under  the  command  of  David  Porter 
swept  the  Pacific  clean  of  British  commerce  and  met  a  glorious  end 
in  her  battle  off  the  coast  of  Chile.  Yet  Salem  commerce  never  re- 
covered, though  all  through  the  first  half  of  the  nineteenth  century 
Salem-owned  ships  from  the  Far  East  still  unloaded  at  her  wharves. 

In  the  great  fire  of  1914,  407  places  of  business  were  destroyed, 
2718  families  rendered  homeless,  and  $738,000  subscribed  by  outsiders. 
The  district,  mainly  the  manufacturing  and  tenement  district,  has 
been  largely  rebuilt  in  a  somewhat  improved  manner. 

Route  37  (p  690)  leads  through  Danvers  to  Lawrence. 

From  Salem  the  route  crosses  the  Beverly,  or  Essex,  Bridge 
over  the  mouth  of  the  estuary  known  as  Danvers  River.  This 
short  cut  to  the  north  from  Boston,  built  in  1787,  was  regarded 
as  a  triumph  of  engineering  so  great  that  when  Washington 
came  this  way  on  his  tour  in  1789  and  visited  the  Hon.  George 
Cabot  he  paused  to  inspect  and  praise  so  remarkable  a  struc- 
ture. The  view  upstream,  to  the  left,  includes  a  part  of  the 
town  of  Danvers  and  the  State  Insane  Asylum  on  Hathorne 
Hill.  To  the  right  is  Beverly  Harbor,  with  Salem  Willows  to 
the  south,  and  to  the  north  the  villas  of  the  Beverly  Farms 
and  Manchester  regions  on  the  southern  coast  of  Cape  Ann. 

For  direct  continuation  of  the  route  see  p  649. 

Detour  to  Cape  Ann;  via  Prides  Crossing  and  Manchester 
to  Gloucester,  Rockport,  and  Essex  to  Ipswich.  41.5  m. 

Since  early  Colonial  days  this  rugged  coast  from  Boston  to 
Cape  Ann  has  been  called  The  North  Shore.  From  Beverly 
to  Gloucester  it  is  lined  with  magnificent  estates. 

After  crossing  the  old  Essex  Bridge  into  Beverly  (p  649) 
the  route  bears  right  and  then  left  on  Cabot  St.,  then  right 
by  the  South  Church  on  Hale  St.  on  which  many  of  the  largest 
estates  border,  facing  Woodburys  Point  and  Beverly  Cove. 
Paramatta,  a  part  of  the  Henry  W.  Peabody  estate,  where 
Mr.  Taft  spent  the  latter  summers  of  his  Presidency  is  now 
an  inn.  On  Ober  St.  off  Hale  to  the  right  are  the  estates  of 
Mrs.  Robert  D.  Evans  and  A.  Shuman.  At  Woodberry  and 


644  SALEM— MANCHESTER 

Ober  Sts.  lived  Captain  Thomas  Lothrop,  who  commanded 
the  military  company  "Flower  of  Essex"  when  it  was  anni- 
hilated at  Bloody  Brook,  Deerfield,  in  1675  (p  317).  George 
Edward  Woodbury,  poet  and  critic,  a  member  of  the  old 
Beverly  family,  resides  at  the  corner  of  Dane  and  Essex  Sts. 
Near  Burgess  Point  is  the  Robert  D.  Evans  residence  with  its 
lovely  Italian  gardens  that  cost  $100,000  or  more,  constructed 
on  the  site  of  the  Evans  house  occupied  by  President  Taft  and 
now  at  Marblehead  (p  636).  Here  begins  the  '  exclusive  zone.' 

At  Chapman's  Corner  the  route  curves  to  the  right  through 
a  stretch  of  wooded  estates.  Left  on  Boyle  St.  is  the 
Montserrat  Golf  Club.  The  early  settlers  thought  this  region 
bewitched,  and  it  is  still  known  as  the  Witch  Woods. 
Wood's  "New  England  Prospect"  says,  "Some,  being  lost  in 
the  woods,  have  heard  such  terrible  roarings  as  have  made 
them  aghast;  which  might  be  either  devils  or  lions;  there  being 
no  other  creatures  which  use  to  roar,  saving  bears,  which  have 
not  such  a  terrible  kind  of  roaring."  On  Prince  St.,  to  the 
right,  just  beyond  Chapman's  Corner,  is  the  Mason  House, 
during  1915  the  summer  home  of  the  British  Embassy.  Soon 
the  road  reaches  the  shore  at  Mingo  Beach,  named  for  Robin 
Mingo,  Thomas  Woodbury's  negro  slave,  whose  hut  stood  on 
the  adjoining  upland.  He  obtained  consent  from  his  master 
to  marry  a  squaw  on  condition  that  she  serve  the  master  until 
his  death,  and  then  be  dismissed  with  a  suit  of  clothes  suitable 
to  her  rank.  The  only  issue  was  a  daughter  named  Ginger. 

Henry  Clay  Frick  owns  and  occupies  Eagle  Rock,  453  Hale 
St.,  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  A  lion's  head  fountain  in 
the  stone  wall  between  hammered  iron  fencing  faces  the 
beautiful  estate.  The  handsome  residences  throughout  this 
section  are  in  every  style  from  the  English  manor  to  the 
French  chateau  or  the  Italian  villa  and  are  the  product  of 
Pittsburgh,  New  York,  and  Boston  esthetic  competition. 

PRIDES  CROSSING  (3.5).  The  private  entrance  opposite  the 
station  leads  to  the  lordly  estates  of  Judge  Wm.  H.  Moore,  the 
late  Mrs.  E.  C.  Swift,  Robert  Treat  Paine,  Francis  Lee  Higgin- 
son,  Frederick  C.  Ayer,  of  Sarsaparilla  origins,  R.  S.  Bradley, 
Washington  B.  Thomas,  head  of  the  Sugar  Trust,  and  other 
plutocrats.  Ex-senator  Beveridge  has  recently  acquired  Sel- 
wood,  the  McKee  place,  not  far  beyond. 

The  route  still  follows  Hale  St.  through  a  charming  country. 

BEVERLY  FARMS  (4.5)  is  the  easternmost  part  of  Beverly. 
The  Italian  Embassy  is  at  Pitch  Pine  Hall  on  Valley  St.,  for- 
merly occupied  by  Philander  C.  Knox  and  also  by  John  D. 
Rockefeller,  Jr.  Justice  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  of  the  U.S. 
Supreme  Court  is  also  a  summer  resident. 


R.  36  §  i.     BOSTON   TO   NEWBURYPORT  645 

Just  beyond  Beverly  Farms  Station  the  route  passes  the 
old  home  of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes,  to  which  he  applied  the 
title  of  "  Beverly-by-the-Depot "  as  a  sly  dig  at  Manchester- 
by-the-Sea.  Passing  West  Beach,  half  a  mile  further  on,  the 
road  recrosses  R.R.  and  leads  inland  but  still  eastward.  At 
West  Manchester,  by  the  shore,  is  The  Rocks,  Eben  D.  Jor- 
dan's summer  place. 

7.0  MANCHESTER.  Pop  (twp)  2673  (1910),  2945  (1915).  Essex 
Co.  Settled  1626.  Mfg.  leather  and  furniture. 

This  is  one  of  the  principal  resorts  of  North  Shore  fashion. 
Its  common  appellation,  Manchester-by-the-Sea,  originated 
with  the  late  Mrs.  James  T.  Fields  to  distinguish  it  from 
Manchester,  N.H. 

The  Memorial  Library,  given  by  the  Hon.  T.  Jefferson 
Coolidge,  is  on  the  road  to  the  right  beyond  the  Town  Hall. 
It  contains  some  old  wood  carvings  of  interest. 

The  Fields  were  formerly  the  leading  summer  residents,  with  R.  H. 
Dana,  Jr.,  the  author  of  "Two  Years  before  the  Mast."  James  T. 
Fields'  prominence  not  only  as  a  publisher,  but  as  a  litterateur,  brought 
many  intellectual  leaders  to  the  red-roofed  gambrel  house  still  crown- 
ing the  bald  brow  of  Thunderbolt  Hill,  the  promontory  that  shelters 
the  little  harbor  from  the  southeasterly  winds.  Here,  too,  in  later 
years  Sarah  Orne  Jewett  and  Louise  Imogen  Guiney  often  visited 
Mrs.  Fields.  Of  the  earlier  days  Bayard  Taylor,  Fields'  guest,  writes: 

"On  the  edge  of  a  lofty  bluff  stood  the  gray  old  mansion  of  the 
venerable  poet,  Richard  H.  Dana.  The  place  is  singularly  wild, 
lonely,  and  picturesque.  No  other  dwelling  is  visible.  A  little  bight 
of  the  coast  thrusts  out  its  iron  headlands  at  a  short  distance  on  either 
side;  the  surf  thunders  incessantly  below;  and  in  front  the  open  ocean 
stretches  to  the  sky.  Mr.  Dana's  only  neighbors  are  the  vessels 
that  come  and  go  at  greater  or  less  distances." 

Beach  Street,  which  leads  past  the  foot  of  this  bluff,  also 
leads  to  the  Singing  Beach,  so  called  because  of  the  whimpering 
squeak  which  its  sharp  quartz  sand  emits  when  trodden  upon. 
Even  the  singing  of  the  sand  stirred  by  the  waves  can  be 
heard  with  the  aid  of  a  vivid  imagination. 

The  route  leaves  the  town  by  Sea  St.,  turning  left  on  Summer 
St.,  the  Gloucester  road,  opposite  the  old  burying  ground  of 
1 66 1.  On  the  left  of  Summer  St.  are  the  grounds  of  the  Essex 
Country  Club,  whose  new  club  house  and  wellknown  links 
are  among  the  best  on  the  coast.  Ocean  Street,  on  the  right, 
leads  to  Kettle  Cove  and  Coolidge's  Point.  The  latter  is 
named  for  the  family  of  T.  Jefferson  Coolidge,  former  Ambas- 
sador to  England.  The  splendid  Georgian  house  of  the  late 
T.  J.  Coolidge,  Jr.,  is  conspicuous.  The  direct  route  leads 
straight  on  to  Gloucester  (p  646). 

Note.  A  shore  road  leads  by  way  of  Raymond  St.  on  the 
right,  just  beyond,  to  MAGNOLIA  (3.5),  "the  Newport  of  Mas- 
sachusetts," characterized  by  great  social  activity,  like  its 


646  MANCHESTER— GLOUCESTER 

westerly  neighbors.  Its  name,  once  Old  Kettle  Cove,  is  now 
to  be  derived  from  the  richly  scented  and  rare  magnolia 
glauca,  native  to  the  swamps  hereabouts,  where  few  but  the 
urchin  flower-peddlers  can  find  it.  In  this  seaside  village  was 
The  Hulk,  William  Morris  Hunt's  studio  in  a  loft,  only  to  be 
reached  by  a  ladder  which  the  peace-seeking  artist  hauled  up 
after  him.  Hunt's  memory  deserves  public  perpetuation  as 
the  first  to  make  America  acquainted  with  the  modern  French 
landscape  school  and  also  as  one  of  the  early  friends  and  sup- 
porters of  Millet.  Not  far  off  shore  is  Norman's  Woe,  the 
treacherous  reef  of  Longfellow's  "Wreck  of  the  Hesperus." 
"And  fast  through  the  midnight  dark  and  drear, 

Through  the  whistling  sleet  and  snow, 
Like  a  sheeted  ghost,  the  vessel  swept 

Towards  the  Reef  of  Norman's  Woe." 

In  the  rocky  shore  is  Rafe's  Chasm,  a  fissure  in  which  the 
sea  roars  and  gurgles.  A  mile  and  a  half  across  the  water  is 
Eastern  Point,  the  outer  arm  of  Gloucester  Harbor.  To  the 
left  are  the  home  of  John  Hays  Hammond  and  the  steel  wire- 
less towers  at  the  laboratory  of  John  Hays  Hammond,  Jr., 
whose  inventions,  the  wireless-controlled  boat  and  torpedo 
and  the  thermos  incendiary  bomb,  have  placed  him  among 
the  foremost  inventors  of  the  age  of  Armageddon. 

14.0     GLOUCESTER.     Pop  24,398  (1910),  24,478  (1915).     Essex  Co. 

Settled  1623.     Indian  name  Wyngaersheek.     Port  of  Entry. 

Mfg.  dried  fish,  glue,  boats,  nets,  and  twine;  fish  and  granite. 

Value  of  Product   (1913),   $8,211,000;    Payroll,   $1,245,000. 

Daily  steamboat  to  Boston. 

America's  second  fishing  port  and  the  easternmost  city  of 
Massachusetts,  Gloucester  is  even  more  significant  to  the 
traveler  as  a  quaint,  oldfashioned  town  with  unlimited  oppor- 
tunities for  the  holiday  pleasures  of  sea  and  shore.  On  the 
tip  of  the  cape,  with  the  marshy  estuary  of  Squam  River  cutting 
through  from  Gloucester  Harbor  to  Annisquam  Harbor, 
Gloucester  and  Rockport  are  really  an  island,  whose  edge  is 
fringed  with  villages  and  summer  houses  and  whose  heart  is 
the  stony  wilderness  of  Dog  Town  Common,  now  only  visited 
by  geologists  to  study  its  remarkable  terminal  moraine.  Yet 
here  is  a  dead  village,  like  Goldsmith's  "Sweet  Auburn," 
with  the  roads  and  walls  of  early  settlers. 

Gloucester  people,  with  their  surroundings,  and  especially 
the  fishermen's  hard  yet  romantic  life,  have  inspired  more  than 
one  author.  Rudyard  Kipling  sailed  to  the  Banks  in  a 
Gloucester  schooner  and  produced  "Captains  Courageous," 
execrated  by  local  mariners  on  technical  grounds,  yet  strong 
in  sea  pictures.  James  B.  Connolly's  "Out  of  Gloucester" 
and  other  tales  of  fishermen  are  almost  as  wellknown. 


R.  36  §  i.     BOSTON  TO   NEWBURYPORT  647 

On  Middle  St.  is  the  church  of  the  Independent  Christian 
Society,  erected  1804,  the  first  Universalist  congregation  in 
America  (1770).  It  has  an  old  organ,  the  booty  of  a  privateer 
in  the  Revolution,  which  is  played  by  turning  a  crank.  At 
least  ten  houses  on  this  street  were  built  before  the  Revolu- 
tionary War,  among  them  the  dwelling  erected  by  the  Rev. 
John  Rogers  about  1775,  No.  64,  and  directly  opposite,  No.  51, 
that  of  the  Rev.  Samuel  Chandler,  built  about  1752.  Just 
to  the  westward  (No.  47)  is  the  oddly  shaped  house  owned  by 
Mrs.  Delia  F.  French.  Built  before  the  Revolution,  its  ex- 
terior and  interior  remain  unchanged.  It  was  built  by  Win- 
throp  Sargent  for  his  daughter  Judith,  later  wife  of  Rev. 
John  Murray,  '  Father  of  American  Universalism.'  This  is  one 
of  the  finest  Colonial  interiors  in  Massachusetts.  The  wood 
carvings  were  brought  from  England.  The  building  now 
occupied  by  the  Sawyer  Free  Library,  corner  of  Dale  Ave. 
and  Middle  St.,  was  erected  in  1764  and  has  been  changed  but 
little  since.  The  Riggs  house,  built  in  1658  by  Thomas  Riggs, 
the  first  school  master,  is  situated  on  a  side  road  off  Washington 
St.  Many  older  houses  in  this  vicinity  are  the  story-and-a- 
half  style,  because  a  two-story  house  was  taxed  more. 

Across  the  harbor  is  Eastern  Point,  a  huge  natural  break- 
water against  the  Atlantic's  eastern  gales.  An  artist  colony  as 
well  as  several  hotels  is  located  here  for  the  sake  of  the 
splendid  cliff  and  crag  landscape  and  the  clean,  bracing  breezes. 

A  fishing  station  was  founded  here  in  1623,  although  visited  in  1605 
by  Champlain,  who  called  the  harbor  "Le  beau  port."  Captain  John 
Smith,  that  prince  of  explorers,  hero,  and  romancer,  gave  the  name  to 
this  promontory  of  "Tragabizanda"  in  memory  of  the  fair  Moslem 
to  whom,  according  to  his  tale,  he  owed  a  debt  of  gratitude.  Milk, 
Thachers,  and  Straitsmouth  Islands,  lying  off  its  extreme  point,  he 
called  the  "Three  Turk's  Heads"  to  commemorate  the  three  he  had  cut 
off  with  his  doughty  sword  in  his  escape  from  Turkish  captivity.  The 
name  Cape  Ann  was  later  bestowed  in  honor  of  Anne  of  Denmark, 
mother  of  Charles  I. 

The  first  vessel  of  the  schooner  type  was  launched  here  about  1714. 
It  is  related  that  a  boy  watching  her  trial  trip  and  marveling  at  her 
speed,  cried,  "See  how  she  schoons!"  "A  schooner  let  her  be!" 
said  the  builder  standing  by.  In  1775  the  town  was  bombarded  by 
the  British  sloop-of-war  "Falcon"  but  without  much  damage.  On 
this  occasion  Captain  Joseph  Rogers  and  his  minute  men,  aided  by 
Colonel  Joseph  Foster,  met  the  enemy  and  captured  four  boats,  a 
small  tender,  a  prize  schooner,  and  forty  men,  and  compelled  the 
"Falcon"  to  withdraw,  each  side  losing  two  men. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  Revolution  Gloucester  was  second  to  Marble- 
head  as  a  fishing  port,  but  the  war  nearly  extinguished  this  industry. 
About  1850  the  fisheries  began  to  revive;  by  1860  they  had  again 
become  the  principal  industry;  and  since  that  time  the  city  has  changed 
from  a  quaint  New  England  village  to  a  fairly  modern  city,  although 
still  retaining  much  of  its  oldfashioned  picturesqueness,  and  "an  ancient 
and  fish-like  smell"  which  still  pervades  the  streets  when  the  wind 
blows  across  from  the  fish  sheds.  Between  1830  and  igo?  over  5000 


648  GLOUCESTER— BEVERLY 

lives  and  700  vessels  were  lost  in  the  industry.  The  proportion  of 
losses  has  been  greatly  reduced  in  the  last  few  years  by  the  use  of  abler 
vessels  with  auxiliary  motors  and  by  modern  methods  of  fishing.  To 
this  day  an  annual  service  is  held  at  the  water's  edge  in  memory  of 
those  lost  at  sea,  and  flowers  are  cast  on  the  ebbing  tide. 

Leaving  Gloucester  the  route  continues  north  on  Middle  St. 
into  Pleasant  St.,  bearing  left  along  Prospect  St.  to  Main  St. 
At  the  fork  the  route  turns  left  on  Eastern  Ave.,  following  the 
car  tracks  to  the  square  and  then  right  on  Broadway  into 

19.0  ROCKPORT.  Pop  (twp)  4211  (1910),  4351  (1915).  Essex  Co. 
Inc.  1840.  Mfg.  granite. 

The  little  town  has  several  old  houses  of  interest.  The 
Congregational  Church,  on  Main  St.,  preserves  the  cannon  ball 
which  struck  its  steeple  during  the  bombardment  by  the 
British  frigate  "Nymph"  in  1812.  The  mark  is  indicattd  by 
a  fac-simile  ball,  painted  black.  The  surrounding  country  is 
pleasantly  diversified  by  woods,  cliffs,  and  beaches. 

A  bit  of  Rockport  which  seems  like  some  foreign  land 
dropped  down  in  its  midst  is  Forest  St.,  a  little  Finnish 
settlement,  which  has  its  own  church,  stores,  and  a  library 
containing  about  600  volumes  in  the  Finnish  language. 

Sandy  Bay,  formed  by  Straitsmouth  Point  on  the  south  and 
Andrew's  Point  on  the  north,  is  to  become  a  National  Harbor 
of  Refuge,  one  of  the  greatest  in  the  world.  The  Government 
is  building  a  two-mile  breakwater  which  will  enclose  1664 
acres  to  accommodate  ships  of  the  greatest  draft.  Its  ease  of 
access  promises  much  for  its  future;  it  is  already  a  favorite 
stopping  place  for  the  Atlantic  Squadron. 

On  Thachers  Island,  which  lies  southward  off  Emersons  Point, 
are  the  twin  lighthouses,  a  third  of  a  mile  apart.  The  island 
received  its  name  from  Anthony  Thacher  of  Yarmouth,  who  in  1635 
sailed  from  Newburyport  for  Marblehead  with  his  wife  and  five  chil- 
dren. The  ship  was  wrecked  in  a  terrible  storm  and  the  five  children 
were  lost.  An  account  of  his  shipwreck  written  by  Anthony  to  his 
brother  Peter  was  printed  in  Mather's  "Remarkable  Providences," 
and  the  storm  is  also  mentioned  in  Winthrop's  Journal,  1635,  as  the 
awful  tempest  of  that  time  which  has  become  historic.  Whittier, 
who  missed  few  incidents  in  New  England  history,  based  his  poem 
"The  Swan  Song  of  Parson  Avery"  upon  this  event. 

Leaving  Rockport,  or  the  South  Village,  the  road  follows  the 
trolley  to  Pigeon  Cove,  sometimes  called  the  'North  Village,' 
passing  over  the  stone  bridge  from  the  granite  quarries  to  the 
Rockport  Granite  Company's  wharves. 

Cutting  across  the  headland  of  Halibut  Point  and  leaving 
the  hamlet  of  Ocean  *View  on  the  right,  the  road  meets  the 
northern  shore  at  Folly  Cove,  a  lonesome,  grim  little  bay  with 
Folly  Point  and  its  fisher  huts  on  the  northern  border.  There 
are  beautiful  views  of  Ipswich  Bay,  including  the  distant  New 
Hampshire  coast  and  the  Isles  of  Shoals. 


R.  36  §   i.     BOSTON   TO    NEWBURYPORT  649 

The  route  leads  through  the  villages  of  Lanesville  (22.5) 
and  Bay  View  (24.0)  to  ANNISQUAM  (24.5),  a  spot  favored  by 
artists.  The  Riggs  house,  built  in  1660  and  said  to  be  the 
oldest  on  the  cape,  is  on  Vine  St.  The  Babson  house  with  its 
gambrel  roof,  built  in  1740,  contains  much  antique  furniture; 
under  the  gables  are  the  old  slave  pens,  worth  inspection. 
The  old  Dennison  house  on  Revere  St.  is  much  visited; 
erected  by  George  Dennison  in  1727,  it  still  has  its  original 
shape  and  appearance  and  is  occupied  by  one  of  his  descend- 
ants. The  Ellery  house,  built  in  1710,  is  in  the  style  of  the 
oldfashioned  blockhouse  with  projecting  upper  story  and  long 
slanting  roof;  the  slave  pen  is  still  to  be  seen. 

The  route  leads  across  Goose  Cove  and  past  the  marshes  of 
the  Squam  and  the  Mill  rivers  to  Gloucester  (29.0),  where  it 
leaves  the  city  by  Middle  St.  and  Western  Ave.  Passing 
through  WEST  GLOUCESTER  (32.0)  on  Little  River,  the  road 
traverses  a  broken  wooded  country  to 

36.0  ESSEX.  Pop  (twp)  1621  (1910),  1677  (1915).  Inc.  1819. 
Indian  name  Chebacco.  Mfg.  sporting  goods  and  ships. 

Essex  is  a  well-kept,  attractive  village  surrounded  by  a  num- 
ber of  beautiful  estates.  A  part  of  the  town  is  occupied  by  the 
Chebaco  Woods,  a  lovely  forest  tract  on  the  shores  of  the  lake. 
It  is  intersected  by  winding  wood-drives  and  paths,  which  are 
in  high  favor  with  horseback  riders.  Most  of  the  drives  are 
closed  to  automobilists.  For  many  years  this  was  a  busy 
shipbuilding  town  and  many  fishing  craft  are  still  built  here 
for  Gloucester  and  Boston.  With  the  exception  of  Bath,  Me., 
Essex  is  the  only  town  where  this  occupation  has  continued 
from  Revolutionary  days  as  the  leading  source  of  income.  In 
the  meeting  house  hangs  a  bell  cast  by  Paul  Revere;  it  is  still 
in  use  and  is  on  view  to  those  who  will  clamber  up  the  dim 
old  staircase  in  the  tower.  John  Wise,  pastor  here  in  Colonial 
days,  was  perhaps  the  first  to  enunciate  the  doctrine  that  taxa- 
tion without  representation  was  tyranny.  He  persuaded  the 
town  officers  not  to  pay  the  tax  imposed  by  Governor  Andros, 
and  was  therefore  thrown  into  jail.  Essex  was  the  birthplace 
of  Rufus  Choate,  one  of  the  greatest  of  American  lawyers. 

The  route  follows  the  trolley  past  the  meeting  house  and  at 
the  three  corners  beyond  bears  right  on  Northern  Ave.  to 
Ipswich  (41.5;  p  653). 


25.5     BEVERLY.     Pop    18,650    (1910),    22,959    (1915).     Essex    Co. 

Settled    1626.     Mfg.    shoe  machinery  and    shoes;  mineral 

oils  and  fish.     Value  of  Product  (1913),  $7,536,000;  Payroll, 

$3,667,000. 

Beverly,  'The  Yankee  Sorrento,'  at  the  base  of  Cape  Ann, 


650  BEVERLY 

is  the  portal  of  the  famous  summer  colonies  on  a  large  section 
of  the  North  Shore.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  United  Shoe  Machin- 
ery Company's  plant,  and  is  a  port  for  the  distribution  of  petro- 
leum products.  The  direct  route  through  the  city,  Rantoul 
St.,  passes  through  the  manufacturing  district.  This  can  be 
avoided  by  turning  to  the  right  after  crossing  the  Essex  Bridge 
from  Salem  and  following  Lothrop  and  Cabot  Sts. 

Beverly  contains  many  old  houses  and  historic  sites.  At 
Leache's  Tavern,  at  the  corner  of  Cabot  and  Front  Sts.,  the 
proprietors  of  the  Essex  Bridge  used  to  meet.  88  Cabot  St. 
was  built  by  Joshua  Fisher,  M.D.  While  surgeon  of  a  pri- 
vateer he  was  captured,  escaped  to  France,  returned  home  and 
became  interested  in  the  first  cotton  factory.  He  later  en- 
dowed the  Fisher  Professorship  of  natural  history  at  Harvard 
College.  The  house  at  Cabot  and  Central  Sts.,  built  by  John 
Cabot  about  1594,  is  now  the  home  of  the  Beverly  Historical 
Society.  Nearly  opposite,  in  the  house  built  by  the  Hon. 
George  Cabot,  Washington  took  breakfast  in  1769.  At  Cabot 
and  Judson  Sts.  lived  Deacon  John  Lowe,  who  was  impressed 
and  served  for  seven  years  on  board  a  British  brig  until  badly 
wounded  in  a  naval  action.  Wilson  Flagg,  the  naturalist, 
born  on  Cabot  St.,  wrote  several  popular  volumes  on  the 
woods  and  birds  of  New  England.  Lucy  Larcom  was  born  at 
13  Wallis  St.  For  the  Beverly  Cove  section  see  p  643. 

By  the  North  Beverly  Hose-House  on  Rantoul  St.  is  a  tablet 
erected  on  the  site  of  America's  first  cotton  mill.  The  Post 
Office,  on  Rantoul  St.,  opposite  the  R.R.  station,  and  the  Public 
Library,  on  Essex  St.,  are  the  best  public  buildings. 

Beverly  is  one  of  the  principal  distributing  points  for  Texas 
oil;  a  line  of  tank  steamers  is  operated  between  this  port  and 
Port  Arthur,  Texas.  Market-gardening  is  a  thriving  industry 
in  this  locality,  and  greenhouses  and  cold  frames  are  con- 
spicuous. Cod-fishing  is  another  source  of  income. 

The  first  settler  of  Beverly,  then  called  "the  Cape  Ann  side,"  was 
Roger  Conant,  who  emigrated  from  England  to  Plymouth  in  1623. 
Conant  became  the  first  promoter  in  the  British  colonies.  After  in- 
vestigating the  business  possibilities  of  Plymouth,  Nantasket,  and 
Cape  Ann,  he  removed  to  Salem  in  1626,  locating  pemanently  in  Bev- 
erly a  few  years  later.  His  active  commercial  spirit  made  him  the 
first  man  of  affairs  in  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony  and  the  ablest 
promoter  of  fisheries  and  agriculture.  His  house  probably  stood  on 
the  east  side  of  Cabot  St.,  near  Balch  St.,  on  an  Indian  road  leading 
from  the  sea  to  Wenham  Lake  by  way  of  Bass  River.  Nathan  Dane, 
cpdifier  of  American  law  soon  after  the  Revolution,  is  another  celeb- 
rity of  Beverly. 

Beverly  was  incorporated  in  1668  because  there  was  no  bridge 
over  the  river;  the  inhabitants  found  crossing  the  ice  in  the  winter 
so  dangerous  that  they  built  a  church  of  their  own  and  became  an  inde- 
pendent community.  From  farmers  they  became  fishermen  and  then 
manufacturers.  In  1788  the  first  cotton  mill  in  America  was  built 


R    36   §   i.     BOSTON   TO    NEWBURYPORT 


651 


here  and  soon  afterward  shoemaking  became  a  leading  industry.  No 
other  city  of  20,000  in  this  country  has  so  large  a  valuation:  $42,000,000. 
It  has  never  had  a  liquor  license  and  spends  much  for  improvements. 

On  leaving  Beverly  the  route  passes  the  old  Balch  house  at 
Balch  and  Cabot  Sts.,  built  about  1638  by  John  Balch;  and  the 
United  Shoe  Machinery  Company's  plant  occupying  nearly 
300  acres.  It  earns  more  than  $5,000,000  annual  net  profit 


THE    BALCH    HOUSE,    BEVERLY,    BUILT    ABOUT    1638 

and  employs  from  4000  to  5000  pers  ons.  Its  products  are 
leased  and  the  business  is  practically  a  monopoly.  An  ar- 
rangement with  the  Beverly  School  Board  provides  industrial 
training  in  connection  with  the  high  school.  The  buildings 
are  the  latest  achievement  in  scientific  factory  construction. 
By  the  road  is  the  estate  of  its  president,  S.  W.  Winslow. 

The  route  follows  the  blue  markers  inland  across  the  base  of 
Cape  Ann  through  a  region  of  great  estates.  Two  miles 
beyond  Beverly  the  road  skirts  Wenham  Lake,  once  famed 
through  the  world.  Fifty  years  ago  and  more,  Wenham  Lake 
ice  was  known  in  the  Antipodes;  Calcutta  especially  relied 
upon  this  little  body  of  water  for  its  refrigeration.  Thackeray, 
Kipling,  and  others  refer  to  the  ice  as  a  matter  of  course.  An 
enterprising  Englishman  bought  a  lake  in  Norway  and  renamed 
it  Wenham  Lake  to  promote  the  sale  of  its  ice. 

A  boulder  monument  by  the  roadside  marks  the  spot  where 


652  BEVERLY— IPSWICH 

the  Rev.  Hugh  Peters  of  Salem  preached  the  first  sermon  after 
the  settlement  was  founded.  The  text  was  "In  Enon  near 
to  Salim,  because  there  was  much  water  there,"  and  Enon 
remained  the  name  of  the  village  for  some  years  and  is  still 
the  name  of  a  principal  street. 

30.0     WENHAM.     Pop  (twp)  1010  (1910),  1068  (1915).     Settled  1636. 

A  traveler  in  these  parts  in  1686  wrote:  "Wenham  is  a  deli- 
cious paradise;  it  abounds  with  rural  pleasures  and  I  would 
choose  it  above  all  other  towns  in  America  to  dwell  in."  His 
testimony  is  still  borne  out  by  the  number  of  country  homes 
on  the  main  street  and  the  well-kept  appearance  of  the  neigh- 
borhood, due  to  the  Village  Improvement  Society.  Behind 
many  older  houses  stand  little  sheds,  formerly  shoe  shops, 
where  the  families  worked  at  binding  shoes.  The  Timothy 
Pickering  house  (1650)  was  built  by  Richard  Goldsmith,  a 
settler,  and  later  occupied  by  Colonel  Pickering,  a  notable 
personage  of  the  early  nineteenth  century. 

Hamilton- Wenham  is  the  railroad  station, — one  of  the  few 
hyphenated  stops  in  America.  At  the  further  end  of  the  village 
the  route  crosses  R.R.,  following  the  blue  markers  to 

32.0  HAMILTON.  Pop  (twp)  1749  (1910),  1879  (1915).  Essex 
Co.  Settled  1623. 

Hamilton  was  named  in  honor  of  Alexander  Hamilton. 
'Gail  Hamilton,'  Mary  Abigail  Dodge,  the  keen-penned  author 
and  for  many  years  a  newspaper  correspondent  in  Washington, 
was  born  at  the  "Dodge  Place,"  on  the  slope  just  outside  the 
village,  in  1838,  taking  her  characteristic  pen-name  from  the 
town.  She  was  one  of  the  first  newspaper  women  in  this 
country  and  a  popular  writer.  Her  last  work  was  a  life  of 
James  G.  Elaine,  who  married  her  cousin. 

In  the  old  church  and  parsonage  beside  it  preached  and  lived 
Manasseh  Cutler,  one  of  the  most  interesting  characters  of 
New  England.  Politician,  preacher,  and  physician,  his  activ- 
ities were  almost  limitless.  He  was  one  of  the  promoters  of 
the  company  -that  settled  the  Northwest  Territory  and  lob- 
bied through  the  legislation  that  kept  slavery  out  of  it. 

To  the  east  are  the  grounds  of  the  Myopia  Hunt  Club,  which 
with  the  Essex  Country  Club  (p  645)  is  the  center  of  an  exclu- 
sive social  life.  This  was  first  established  on  the  heights  above 
Mystic  Lake,  in  Winchester  (p  602),  some  thirty  years  ago. 
The  name  "Myopia"  was  adopted  in  whimsical  reference  to 
the  myopic  tendencies  of  some  of  its  members. 

In  1894  increase  of  wealth  and  need  of  larger  grounds  forced  the 
club  to  move  its  headquarters  to  its  present  location.  The  club  house, 
in  keeping  with  its  environment,  is  a  remodeled  homestead  of  1772, 
with  but  little  suggestion,  from  a  distance  at  least,  of  the  perfection 


R.   36   §  i.     BOSTON  TO   NEWBURYPORT  653 

of  equipment  characteristic  of  the  links,  polo  grounds,  and  other  fea- 
tures. Polo  has  since  1888  been  a  popular  sport  with  Myopians,  and 
the  matches  are  among  the  events  of  the  North  Shore  season.  The 
Hunt,  owing  to  the  lack  of  suitable  conditions  for  the  pursuit  of  Rey- 
nard himself,  is  customarily  a  'drag,'  and  the  scent  is  laid  on  with 
anise.  However,  there  is  many  a  splendid  run  after  the  hounds  over 
this  rolling  country,  with  no  lack  of  thoroughbred  horses  and  riders. 
The  kennels  are  justly  famous.  The  club  has  the  finest  eighteen-hole 
golf  course  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic,  and  many  tournaments  are  held 
here.  The  past  few  years  have  seen  numerous  additions  and  altera- 
tions in  the  club  house,  which  attest  its  growing  popularity. 

Among  the  residents  of  Hamilton  is  George  von  L.  Meyer, 
Ex-secretary  of  the  Navy  and  former  Ambassador  to  Italy  and 
Russia,  whose  house,  a  terra  cotta  residence,  with  an  Italian 
garden,  is  to  the  left  just  beyond  the  church.  Rodolphe 
Agassiz,  of  the  wellknown  family  of  scientists  and  capitalists, 
enriched  by  the  Calumet  &  Hecla  developments,  lives  on 
County  Road  at  The  Kennels.  The  restored  Colonial  house 
opposite  the  church  is  the  home  of  Nathan  Matthews,  a  former 
Mayor  of  Boston. 

Beyond  Hamilton  the  route,  with  blue  markers,  passes 
many  large  residential  estates.  Among  them  are  the  follow- 
ing: George  F.  Barnard's  on  County  Road;  James  H.  Proctor's 
and  F.  P.  Frazier's,  on  Fellows  Road;  Frank  R.  Appleton's, 
"Appleton  Farms";  and  H.  W.  Mason's,  Heartbreak  Row.  A 
mile  out  from  the  village  is  an  ancient  milestone,  on  the  left. 

Appleton's  Bridge  across  Miles  River  bears  an  inscription 
telling  of  its  construction.  On  the  culvert  over  a  brook  just 
outside  Ipswich  is  the  inscription: 

"This  road,  from  Rowley  to  Salem,  was  laid  out  in  the  year  1640 
by  order  of  the  General  Court.  It  was  then  known  as  the  Bay  Road, 
and  was  the  first  road  thus  authorized." 

36.5     IPSWICH.     Pop   (twp)  5777   (1910),  6272  (1915).     Essex  Co. 
Settled    1623.     Indian    name    Agawam,    "meadow."     Mfg. 
hosiery,  shoes,  and  isinglass.     Motorboats   to  all  points  on 
the  Ipswich  river,  Castle  Neck,  and  Plum  Island. 
This  ancient  town  on  the  Ipswich  river,  overlooking  the 
Ipswich  marshes,  lies  nestled  between  the  drumlins  of  Town 
Hill  and  Heartbreak  Hill.     An  ancient  village  with  some  fine 
old  houses,  modern  industry  has  brought  in  a  considerable 
foreign  factory-element,  so  today  the  old  and  new  rub  elbows. 
On  the  elm-shaded  streets  one  sees  Greeks,  Poles,  and  Portu- 
guese as  frequently  as  native-born  Americans;    and  a  fine  old 
New  England  dwelling  has  been  turned  into  a  Greek  coffee- 
house.    A  few  years  ago  conditions  in  the  hosiery  mills  led  to 
a  prolonged  strike  and  made  the  town  a  center  of  I.  W.  W. 
activities.     Yet  the  newcomers,  as  a  whole,  feel  a  local  pride 
in  the  place  and  its  historical  features. 

At  the  further  end  of  South  Green,  at  the  entrance  to  the 


654  IPSWICH 

town,  a  square  stone  monument,'  erected  by  the  Historical 
Society,  states  among  other  things  that  Ezekiel  Cheever  was 
the  first  master  in  the  little  school  nearby.  Beside  the  old 
church  is  the  beautiful  old  house  of  the  late  John  Heard,  one 
of  the  town's  benefactors. 

The  road  to  the  left  crosses,  near  the  center  of  the  town,  the 
old  stone  bridge  which  was  built  by  town  and  county  in  1764 
and  is  known  as  the  Choate  Bridge.  Above  it  is  the  Upper 
river,  a  fresh- water  stream,  with  good  canoeing  and  fishing. 
Below  is  the  Lower  river,  an  estuary  where  motorboats  wait 
for  passengers  for  all  points  on  the  Ipswich  river,  Castle  Neck 
River,  Plum  Island,  and  the  pleasant  route  along  Plum  Island 
Sound  to  Newburyport.  Plum  Island  is  worth  a  visit;  among 
other  features,  besides  the  remarkable  sand  dunes,  is  an  unusual 
sun-dial  with  three  faces  and  three  gnomons,  one  to  the  east 
and  one  to  the  west  as  well  as  the  more  normal  southern  face. 
The  1916  military  camp  for  schoolboys  is  located  here. 

Meeting   House   Green   has  always  been  the  social  center 

of  the  town.  Here  stood 
the  first  meeting  house,  and 
here,  as  in  all  New  England 
towns,  the  implements  of  law 
and  order,  the  stocks  and  the 
whipping  post,  were  early 
erected.  Several  public 
buildings  now  face  the  Green, 
including  the  Public  Library, 
the  gift  of  Augustine  Heard. 

Also   facing   the   Green  are 

THE  \\HIPPLE  HOUSE  the  buildings  once  occupied 

by  the  Ipswich  Female  Semi- 
nary, where  Mary  Lyon,  one  of  the  first  of  New  England's 
great  women  educators,  taught  (1828-34)  and  worked  out  her 
plans  for  Mount  Holyoke  Seminary. 

The  Whipple  house  (1650),  directly  opposite  the  R.R. 
station,  is  the  oldest  building  in  Ipswich  and  has  been  care- 
fully restored  as  the  home  of  the  Historical  Society.  It  con- 
tains a  fine  collection  of  Colonial  antiques  and  has  conse- 
quently been  called  "the  Hotel  Cluny  of  a  New  England  Vil- 
lage." The  "hall,"  a  combined  kitchen  and  living  room, 
completely  furnished  in  oldtime  fashion,  is  especially  inter- 
esting. The  Ross  Tavern  (1734)  stands  under  a  great  elm 
on  South  Main  St.,  and  the  Swasey  house,  where  Washington 
stopped,  though  greatly  altered,  is  on  County  St. 

Argilla  Road  runs  from  the  right  of  South  Green  to  the 
beach.  On  the  right  is  Heartbreak  Hill,  so  named,  according 


R.  36  §   I.     BOSTON   TO   NEWBURYPORT  655 

to  the  ancient  legend  preserved  in  Celia  Thaxter's  poem, 
because  an  Indian  maiden  died  of  grief  on  its  summit  while 
watching  for  her  lover,  a  white  sailor  drowned  at  sea;  other 
authority  more  practically  derives  the  name  from  Hard  Brick 
Hill,  on  an  old  map  of  the  region.  Along  this  road  are  the 
summer  homes  of  several  Boston  physicians;  near  the  beach 
is  quite  a  colony  of  artists,  including  Theodore  Wendell,  the 
landscape  painter,  Arthur  Shurtleff,  the  landscape  architect, 
F.  H.  Richardson,  and  Arthur  W.  Dow. 

At  the  extreme  end  of  the  road  on  a  high  hill  commanding 
a  magnificent  view  is  the  home  of  R.  T.  Crane,  Jr.,  of  Chicago. 
Mr.  Crane  has  recently  given  the  town  funds  for  a  hospital  in 
memory  of  his  friend,  George  Cable  of  Chicago,  who  was  killed 
in  a  motor  accident  in  Ipswich  in  the  fall  of  1915.  The  beach, 
commonly  known  as  Castle  Neck,  is  now  largely  owned  by  Mr. 
Crane.  Geologists  say  that  the  sand  here  was  washed  along 
the  bottom  of  the  ocean  from  the  Isles  of  Shoals.  It  is  ex- 
tremely white  and  fine,  and  large  quantities  are  carried  to  vari- 
ous cities  for  use  in  cleaning  stone  buildings.  The  rounded 
drumlins  along  the  coast,  isolated  from  the  mainland  by  great 
stretches  of  salt  marsh,  were  formerly  called  'Ipswich  Hun- 
dreds.' In  the  opinion  of  the  late  Professor  Shaler,  Harvard's 
eminent  geologist,  the  spectacle  seen  from  these  neighboring 
hilltops  of  the  monthly  tides  rising  over  the  meadows  and  trans- 
forming them  from  green  grass  to  blue  waters  was  a  more  im- 
pressive sight  than  Niagara. 

John  Winthrop,  Jr.,  who  later  founded  New  London,  Conn.,  profited 
by  the  demoralization  of  the  Agawam  Indians  in  1632  and  bought 
their  principal  village  for  $100,  establishing  a  settlement  the  follow- 
ing year  with  the  primary  object  of  keeping  out  the  French. 

The  Rev.  Nathaniel  Ward,  a  minister  of  the  town  (d.  1652),  compiled 
the  "Body  of  Liberties,"  the  first  Code  of  Laws  in  the  Bay  Colony, 
and   at    the   age   of    seventy-five   published   "The   Simple    Cobler  of 
Agawam  in  America,  Willing  to  help  Mend  his  Native  Country,  lament- 
ably tattered,  both  in  the  upper-leather  and  sole,  with  all  the  honest 
stitches  he  can  take."     The  quaint  title-page  bears  also: 
"In  rebus  arduis  ac  tenui  spe,  fortissima 
quaeque  consilia  tutissima  sunt.     Cic." 

In  English 

"  When  boots  and  shoes  are  torn  up  to  the  lefts, 
Cobblers  must  thrust  their  awles  up  to  the  hefts." 
"This  is  no  time  to  fear  Appelles  gramm: 
Ne  Sutor  quidem  ultra  crepidam." 

The  book  was  a  religious  diatribe  with  a  few  more  worldly  passages,  of 
which  the  following  is  a  fair  example: 

"I  honour  the  Woman  that  can  honour  herself  with  her  attire:  a 
good  Text  always  deserves  a  fair  Margent;  I  am  not  much  offended 
if  I  see  a  trimme  far  trimmer  than  she  that  wears  it:  in  a  word,  what- 
ever Christianity  or  Civility  will  allow,  I  can  afford  with  London 
measure:  but  when  I  hear  a  nugiperous  Gentledame  inquire  what 
dress  the  Queen  is  in  this  week:  what  the  nudiustertian  fashion  of  the 


656  IPSWICH— NEWBURY 

Court;  with  egge  to  be  in  it  in  all  haste,  what  ever  it  be;  I  look  at  her 
as  the  very  gizzard  of  a  trifle,  the  product  of  a  quarter  of  a  cypher,  the 
epitome  of  Nothing,  fitter  to  be  kickt,  if  she  were  of  a  kickable  sub- 
stance, than  either  honour'd  or  humour'd." 

Leaving  Ipswich  the  road  hugs  the  base  of  Town  Hill  (160  ft), 
the  largest  of  the  drumlins  in  the  neighborhood.  G.  F.  Swain, 
professor  of  civil  engineering  at  M.  I.  T.,  has  a  summer  home 
on  Spring  St.,  near  Town  Hill,  on  the  righthand  side  of  the 
road.  Ahead  are  Muzzy  and  Prospect  Hills;  to  the  west  is 
Hunsley  Hill  (280  ft),  a  double  drumlin  dominating  the  whole 
region.  Oceanward  the  gleaming  dunes  of  Plum  Island  stretch 
for  miles  on  the  far  side  of  the  Ipswich  and  Rowley  marshes. 

40.0  ROWLEY.  Pop  (twp)  1368  (1910),  1481  (1915).  Essex  Co. 
Settled  1639.  Mjg.  shoes,  shoe  stock,  belting. 

This  straggling  little  town  with  its  numerous  old  houses 
along  the  marshes  was  settled  from  Newbury  in  1639  with  other 
settlers  led  here  by  Ezekiel  Rogers,  once  rector  of  Rowley  in 
Yorkshire,  England,  who  had  emigrated  because  of  his  Puritan 
leanings.  Upon  his  death  in  1660  he  left  his  library  to  Har- 
vard College  and  his  estate  to  the  Rowley  church.  These 
English  immigrants  manufactured  the  first  cloth  made  in 
America,  bringing  the  art  of  weaving  from  Yorkshire.  Their 
fulling  mill  (1643)  was  the  first  of  its  kind  in  the  country. 

Beyond  Rowley  the  road  follows  the  blue  markers  across 
the  marsh  and  the  Parker  river. 

47.0  NEWBURY.  Pop  (twp)  1482  (1910),  1590  (1915).  Essex  Co. 
Settled  1634.  Mfg.  snuff  and  woolens. 

Oldtown  Hill  (200  ft),  a  landmark  wellknown  to  coastwise 
shipping,  is  the  highest  land  on  the  coast  between  Mt.  Aga- 
menticus  in  Maine  and  the  Great  Blue  Hill. 

On  the  Lower  Green  is  a  monument  commemorating  the 
landing  of  the  little  band  of  Puritan  exiles  in  1635  under  the 
leadership  of  the  Reverend  Thomas  Parker,  for  whom  the 
stream  which  flows  under  the  bridge  here  is  named.  The 
Indian  name,  Quascacunquen,  "waterfall,"  refers  to  the  little 
cascade  whose  power  was  used  by  the  settlers  a  few  miles 
upstream  in  what  is  now  Byfield  (p  626). 

Newbury  Old  Town,  spread  along  the  road  from  the  river  to  New- 
buryport,  was  named  in  honor  of  the  Rev.  Thomas  Parker,  a  native 
of  Newbury,  England.  The  settlers  reached  Boston  in  1634,  came 
thence  to  Ipswich  in  the  spring,  and  finally  selected  this  site  for  the 
sake  of  its  rich  meadows,  sheltered  fishing  grounds,  and  the  protection 
from  sudden  Indian  attack  afforded  by  keeping  watch  from  Old  Town 
Hill.  The  land  was  carefully  parceled  out,  cattle  imported  from  Hol- 
land, and  the  development  of  the  rich  farmland  was  so  well  managed 
that  many  of  the  original  allotments  are  held  to  this  day  by  descend- 
ants of  the  pioneers. 

When  certain  emigrants  complained  of  the  hardships  of  pioneer 
life,  Judge  Samuel  Sewall  made  the  following  autocratic  rejoinder: 


R.  36   §   I.     BOSTON   TO   NEWBURYPORT  657 

"As  long  as  Plum  Island  shall  faithfully  keep  the  commanded 
Port;  Notwithstanding  the  hectoring  words  and  hard  Blows  of  the 
proud  and  boisterous  Ocean;  As  long  as  any  Salmon  or  Sturgeon 
shall  swim  in  the  streams  of  Merrimack;  or  any  Perch  or  Pickeril 
in  Crane  Pond.  ...  As  long  as  any  cattle  shall  be  fed  with  the  Grass 
growing  in  the  Meadows,  which  do  humbly  bow  themselves  before 
Turkic  Hill;  As  long  as  any  Sheep  shall  walk  upon  Old-Town  Hills, 
and  shall  from  thence  look  down  upon  the  River  Parker,  and  the  fruit- 
ful marshes  lying  beneath.  ...  As  long  as  Nature  shall  not  grow  Old 
and  dote;  but  shall  constantly  remember  to  give  the  rows  of  Indian 
Corn  their  education,  by  Pairs;  so  long  shall  Christians  be  born  there; 
and  being  first  made  meet,  shall  from  thence  be  transplanted  to  be 
made  Partakers  on  the  Inheritance  of  the  Saints  of  Light.  Now 
seeing  the  inhabitants  of  Newbury,  and  of  New  England,  upon  the  due 
observance  of  their  Tenure,  May  expect  that  their  Rich  and  Gracious 
LORD  will  continue  and  confirm  them  in  the  Possession  of  these  inval- 
uable Privileges." 

On  rounding  Old  Town  Hill,  following  the  blue  markers  on 
High  St.,  the  mouth  of  the  Merrimack  river  comes  into  sight 
with  the  summer  cottages  of  Plum  Island  in  the  foreground. 
Nicholas  Noyes,  whose  "duty"  led  him  to  take  an  active  part  in 
the  witchcraft  delusion,  William  Dummer,  Governor  of  the  State 
for  five  years  and  founder  of  Dummer  Academy,  John  Lowell, 
a  statesman,  Benjamin  Hale,  a  noted  educator  of  the  early 
nineteenth  century,  and  Leonard  Wood,  President  of  Bowdoin 
College  for  twenty-seven  years,  were  all  born  here. 

The  Noyes  house,  on  the  left,  beneath  the  great  Newbury 
Elm,  is  probably  the  oldest  edifice  in  this  locality,  built  about 
1646.  Its  chimney  is  almost  twelve  feet  square.  The  Elm, 
just  outside  the  front  gate,  planted  about  1713,  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  State  and  has  a  girth  of  twenty-four  feet. 

To  the  left  in  Little's  Lane,  on  the  Spencer-Pierce  place,  is  a 
building  known  as  the  "Garrison  House"  (1651)  owing  to  its 
heavy  walls,  from  two  to  three  feet  thick,  much  like  a  small 
English  manor  house,  with  arched  doorways  and  windows  and 
a  beautiful  porch.  It  is  built  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  of  stone 
and  brick  covered  with  plaster. 

On  the  Upper  Green,  laid  out  in  1642,  and  also  known  as  the 
Trayneing  Green,  the  expedition  against  Quebec  under  Bene- 
dict Arnold  encamped  in  September,  1775.  It  is  marked  by 
a  bronze  tablet.  Next  the  Green  is  the  village  church  with  a 
group  of  old  houses.  Beyond  the  church  the  Coffin  house, 
bought  or  built  by  Tristram  Coffin,  1643,  was  the  home  of 
Joshua  Coffin,  one  of  the  abolitionist  associates  of  William 
Lloyd  Garrison,  and  the  subject  of  Whittier's  poem  "The 
Schoolmaster."  The  original  dwelling  is  probably  the  rear 
part  of  the  present  structure.  The  Swett-Ilsley  house,  13 
High  St.,  was  built  in  1670  and  for  a  time  used  as  a  tavern. 
Here  was  organized  the  Marine  Society,  of  Revolutionary  days. 
It  is  one  of  the  finest  examples  of  Colonial  architecture  in  the 


658  NEWBURY— NEWBURYPORT 

country  and  has  been  secured  by  the  Society  for  the  Preser- 
vation of  New  England  Antiquities,  and  is  occupied  on  lease 
by  the  Blue  Elephant  Tea  Room.  Nearby  on  Toppan  St.  is 
the  Jacob  Toppan  House  of  1670,  still  owned  by  lineal  de- 
scendants of  the  builder. 

Entering  Newburyport  on  High  St.,  No.  6  is  the  Short  house, 
built  in  or  about  1717,  a  charming  vine-covered  cottage  with 
a  quaint  doorway.  The  Dole-Little  house,  No.  78,  probably 
built  in  1670,  is  a  typical  old  New  England  farmhouse. 

Route  38  (p  694)  to  Amesbury,  Haverhilt,  and  Lowell 
continues  straight  along  the  ridge  on  High  St.  The  direct 
route  to  the  New  Hampshire  beaches  and  Portsmouth  leads 
down  Winter  St.,  or  by  easier  grades  to  the  left  along  State, 
Harris,  and  Washington  Sts.  across  the  Merrimack  to  East 
Salisbury  (p  663). 

48.0     NEWBURYPORT.     Pop    14,949   (1910),   15,244    (1915);     one 
fifth  foreign-born.     Shire  town  of  Essex  Co.     Port  of  Entry. 
Mfg.  shoes,  silverware,  cotton  and  woolen  goods,  cordage, 
electrical  apparatus,  combs  and  celluloid  goods.     Value  of 
Product  (1913),  $8,597,000;  Payroll,  $1,873,000. 
Newburyport  retains  much  that  is  characteristic  of  middle- 
aged  New  England  in  outward  appearance  as  well  as  mode 
of  life.     Its  streets  and  houses  remain  nearly  as  they  were  a 
hundred  years  ago  in  the  heyday  of  its  prosperity,  when  it 
had  extensive  ocean  commerce  and  was  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant seaports  of  the  United  States.     Today  it  is  a  well-preserved 
and  self-respecting  old  town,  proud  of  its  past,  but  not  wholly 
content  to  live  upon  its  memories.     There  is  a  very  consider- 
able diversity  of  industries  that  call  for  intelligence  and  skill. 

Oliver  Wendell  Holmes,  writing  half  a  century  ago,  said  of  Newbury- 
port and  Portsmouth:  "They  both  have  grand  old  recollections  to 
fall  back  upon, — times  when  they  looked  forward  to  commercial  great- 
ness, and  when  the  portly  gentlemen  in  cocked  hats,  who  built  their 
now  decaying  wharves  and  sent  out  their  ships  all  over  the  world, 
dreamed  that  their  fast-growing  port  was  to  be  the  Tyre  or  the  Car- 
thage of  the  rich  British  colony.  ...  It  is  not  with  any  thought  of  pity 
or  depreciation  that  we  speak  of  them  as  in  a  certain  sense  decayed 
towns;  they  did  not  fulfil  their  early  promise  of  expansion,  but  they 
remain  incomparably  the  most  interesting  places  of  their  size  in  any  of 
the  three  northernmost  New  England  states." 

Newburyport  lies  near  the  mouth  of  the  Merrimack,  which 
here  broadens  into  an  estuary.  Where  formerly  its  water- 
front was  lined  with  busy  wharves  and  fringed  with  shipyards 
there  is  now  little  but  salt  marsh  and  mud-flat.  That  portion 
of  the  town  bordering  on  the  marshes  is  known  as  "Joppa." 
The  vernacular  expression  "From  Joppa  Flats  to  Grasshopper 
Plains"  for  an  old  resident  of  Newbury  is  equivalent  to  the 
Biblical  "from  Dan  to  Beersheba." 

The  city  rises  from  the  Merrimack  to  the  long  ridge  along 


R.  36   §    I.      BOSTON   TO    NEWBURYPORT  659 

which  High  Street  runs  for  several  miles.  This  ancient  street, 
on  which  are  the  more  notable  houses  of  the  town,  is  the  glory 
of  Newburyport.  But  there  are  many  interesting  relics  of 
the  past  in  the  lower-lying  portion. 

On  Federal  St.,  among  many  quaint  houses  of  Colonial  days, 
is  the  Old  South  Church,  built  in  1756,  but  later  remodeled. 
It  was  founded  by  George  Whitefield,  the  great  revivalist 
who,  at  first  reviled  and  stoned,  was  afterward  heard  by  mul- 
titudes in  the  open  air,  since  no  roof  could  cover  his  audiences. 
In  his  poem  on  Whitefield,  "The  Preacher,"  Whittier  tells  us 
this  is  also  his  burial  place : 

"Under  the  church  of  Federal  Street, 
Under  the  tread  of  its  Sabbath  feet, 
Walled  about  by  its  basement  stones, 
Lie  the  marvellous  preacher's  bones." 

For  years  these  bones  were  exposed  to  the  stare  of  the  gaping 
and  curious.  A  more  sensitive,  if  less  prudish,  generation  has 
protected  them  from  the  curious  eye.  At  9  and  n  School  St., 
behind  the  church,  is  the  house  where  Whitefield  died  almost 
in  the  act  of  preaching,  as  he  had  long  desired.  He  reached 
Newburyport  of  a  Saturday  evening,  tired  by  his  labors,  if 
not  actually  ill.  As  he  was  on  his  way  to  bed  a  throng  which 
had  gathered  outside  the  house  clamored  so  urgently  that  he 
consented  to  address  them,  and  standing  on  the  staircase  with 
the  candle  in  his  hand,  he  preached  one  of  his  greatest  sermons. 
He  then  withdrew  and  was  found  dead  a  few  hours  later. 

The  house  between  the  building  and  the  church  is  the  birth- 
place of  William  Lloyd  Garrison,  the  great  abolitionist,  and  dis- 
coverer of  Whittier.  He  began  his  career  here  type-setting 
and  writing,  and  presently  set  up  the  "Free  Press"  with  the 
motto,  "Our  Country,  Our  Whole  Country,  and  Nothing  But 
Our  Country."  But  soon  he  went  to  Boston  and  established 
the  "Liberator."  Before  he  left  Whittier's  sister  sent  her 
young  brother's  poem  "The  Exile's  Departure"  to  Garrison, 
who  at  once  printed  it  in  his  paper.  Soon  after  he  went  out 
to  Whittier's  home  and  made  the  boy's  acquaintance;  from 
that  day  Whittier's  career  was  assured,  not  only  as  a  poet,  but 
as  a  leader  in  the  cause  of  freedom. 

In  the  same  quaint  quarter,  at  the  corner  of  Middle  and  In- 
dependence Sts.,  is  a  bombshell  standing  on  a  stone  post,  brought 
back  from  Louisburg  in  1758  by  Nathaniel  Knapp.  The 
meeting  house,  usually  known  as  the  Unitarian  Church,  stands 
on  Pleasant  St. ;  its  spire  is  one  of  the  finest  in  this  region. 

The  Public  Library  on  State  St.  occupies  the  residence  of 
Nathaniel  Tracy,  the  wealthiest  merchant  of  the  time,  built 
in  1771.  He  also  owned  at  that  time  the  Craigie-Longfellow 
house  in  Cambridge.  Some  of  the  rooms  are  preserved  pre- 


660  NEWBURYPORT 

cisely  as  they  were  when  Washington  stayed  here  in  1789  and 
Lafayette  in  1824. 

Popular  tradition,  probably  much  exaggerated,  tells  us  that  so 
numerous  were  his  estates  that  in  traveling  from  Newburyport  to 
Philadelphia  he  could  stop  each  night  under  his  own  roof-tree!  His 
fortune  was  largely  made  in  privateering.  In  the  Revolution  he  was 
chief  owner  of  some  twenty  vessels  with  over  300  guns  and  manned  by 
nearly  3000  men  who  captured  vessels  and  cargoes  that  sold  for 
$4,000,000.  About  half  of  this  Mr.  Tracy  gave  for  public  purposes. 
It  was  a  doubtful  and  dangerous  business,  however;  the  end  of  the 
war  found  him  a  bankrupt,  with  only  one  of  his  privateersmen  and 
few  of  his  merchant  ships  afloat. 

The  Wolfe  Tavern  on  State  St.  has  occupied  the  handsome 
mansion  of  Colonel  John  Peabody  ever  since  1814.  The  tavern 
was  first  opened  in  1762  by  a  Captain  Davenport  and  named 
for  General  Wolfe,  his  lamented  leader  in  the  campaign  against 
Quebec.  It  was  originally  located  at  the  lower  end  of  Fish 
St.,  as  State  was  then  called,  and  was  burned  in  the  great  fire 
of  1811.  Many  years  later  the  old  sign  was  unearthed  and 
hung  out  at  the  Merrimack  House.  Until  the  time  of  the 
railway,  it  was  a  famous  stopping  place  for  Boston  and  Ports- 
mouth coaches  of  the  Eastern  Stage  Company.  Thirty  years 
ago  it  became  the  Merrimack  House,  but  a  change  in  taste  for 
the  better,  fifteen  years  ago,  revived  the  old  name. 

The  Dalton  Club  opposite,  built  in  1746,  was  formerly  the 
home  of  Tristram  Dalton,  merchant  prince  and  Senator,  who 
maintained  a  six-horse  coach  and  an  establishment  that  for 
luxury  remains  famous.  At  his  death  he  left  1200  gallons  of 
choice  wines  in  his  cellars  according  to  legend,  though  he  died 
at  Boston  in  reduced  circumstances.  The  Y.M.C.A.  building 
in  this  vicinity  was  the  gift  of  Mrs.  George  H.  Corliss,  as  a 
memorial  to  her  husband,  the  once  famous  steam  engine  in- 
ventor, a  native  of  the  town. 

The  Cutler-Bartlett  house  (1782),  32  Green  St.,  is  one  of 
the  Wallace  Nutting  chain  of  Colonial  residences.  Its  brick- 
work and  the  furniture  are  features  (adm.  25  cents). 

On  High  St.,  near  the  center  of  the  older  portion  of  the 
town,  is  the  Bartlet  Mall,  the  gathering  place  of  early  New- 
buryport fashion,  given  the  city  by  a  descendant  of  one  of  the 
early  merchant  princes.  It  is  said  that  its  grading  in  1800  was 
done  by  the  menfolk  of  the  town,  who  wielded  pick  and  shovel 
while  their  'better  halves'"  supplied  refreshment.  Twenty 
years  ago  it  was  further  improved  from  the  plans  of  Charles 
Eliot,  the  landscape  architect.  On  the  Mall  is  the  Court 
House;  opposite  is  the  Putnam  Free  School,  founded  in  1838, 
and  one  of  the  earliest  of  New  England  democratic  institutions. 
In  Brown  Square,  off  Green  St.,  is  the  statue  of  Garrison  by 
Daniel  M.  French,  a  native. 


R.  36  §   I.     BOSTON   TO   NEWBURYPORT  66 T 

St.  Paul's  Church,  on  High  St.,  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the 
Episcopal  diocese  of  Massachusetts.  The  first  edifice  on  this 
site  was  built  in  1738,  and  the  present,  of  unusual  and  in- 
teresting architecture,  dates  from  about  1800.  The  Bishop's 
miter  on  the  belfry  would  indicate  this  as  the  Cathedral. 

The  Old  Ladies'  Home  on  High  St.  occupies  the  fine  old 
residence  of  William  Wheelright  (1798-1873),  who  left  half  a 
million  dollars  to  provide  education  for  the  Protestant  youth 
of  his  native  town  at  the  Institute  of  Technology.  His  roman- 
tic career  is  too  little  known.  At  the  age  of  eighteen,  a  sailor 
before  the  mast,  he  became  a  sea-captain,  and  at  the  age  of 
twenty-five  was  wrecked  on  the  coast  of  South  America. 
The  first  railroads  of  Chile  and  the  Argentine  were  due  to  his 
initiative.  He  opened  up  coal  mines  there  and  established 
steamship  connection  with  Europe. 

The  Historical  Society  of  Old  Newbury  (adm.  10  cents) 
occupies  a  fine  old  house  at  164  High  St.,  corner  of  Winter. 
Within  is  a  valuable  collection  of  Colonial  furniture  and  the 
collection  of  the  Newburyport  Marine  Society,  founded  in  1782. 
The  large  mansion,  201  High  St.,  well  back  from  the  street 
and  surmounted  by  a  cupola  with  a  gilded  eagle  and  minarets 
topped  with  gilt  balls,  was  the  home  of  'Lord'  Timothy  Dexter. 
It  was  later  the  property  of  one  equally  celebrated  if  not  so 
eccentric,  Mrs.  Katherine  Tingley,  born  in  Newburyport, 
American  head  of  the  Universal  Brotherhood  and  Theosophical 
Society,  with  headquarters  at  Point  Loma,  near  San  Diego. 

Lord  Timothy  Dexter  is  to  Newburyport  what  Floyd  Ireson  is  to 
Marblehead  and  the  witches  to  Salem.  The  average  person  at  a  dis- 
tance, hearing  the  names  of  these  towns,  thinks  first  of  these  rather 
over-estimated  celebrities.  Among  the  stiff  wooden  effigies,  the 
work  of  a  figurehead  carver  of  the  town,  with  which  he  adorned  his 
fence  posts,  were  those  of  Bonaparte,  Nelson,  Washington,  and  Jef- 
ferson; but  the  inscriptions  were  frequently  interchanged  by  the 
eccentric  Lord.  Prominent  was  also  his  own  effigy,  bearing  his  own 
modest  estimate  of  himself  in  this  inscription:  "I  am  the  first  in  the 
East,  the  first  in  the  West,  and  the  greatest  philosopher  of  the  known 
world."  He  also  maintained  a  poet  laureate  who  celebrated  his 
patron's  taste  and  virtues  without  restraint: 

"Lord  Dexter  is  a  man  of  fame, 

Most  celebrated  is  his  name; 

More  precious  far  than  gold  that's  pure, 

Lord  Dexter  live  forevermore. 

His  noble  house  it  shines  more  bright 

Than  Lebanon's  most  pleasant  height; 

Never  was  one  who  stepped  therein 

Who  wanted  to  come  out  again. 

The  images  around  him  stand, 

For  they  were  made  by  his  command; 

Looking  to  see  Lord  Dexter  come, 

With  fixed  eyes  they  see  him  home." 

He  was  his  own  press  agent  and  kept  himself  as  continuously  in  the 
public  eye  as  'Tom'  Lawson  does  today  and  did  not  hesitate  to  tell 


662  NEWBURYPORT 


how  he  acquired  wealth  or  to  tell  others  to  do  so.  He  published  all 
this  in  a  "Pickle  for  the  Knowing  Ones,"  in  which  he  tells  of  his  vir- 
tues, the  secret  of  his  success,  and  how  he  was  laughed  to  scorn  for 
sending  warming-pans  to  the  West  Indies,  but  turned  the  laugh  on 
his  critics.  The  "Pickle"  has  a  tang  worth  tasting: 

"Ime  the  first  Lord  in  the  younited  States  of  A  mercary  Now  of 
Newburyport  it  is  the  voise  of  the  peopel  &  I  cant  Help  it  &  so  Let 
it  goue  Now  as  I  must  be  Lord  there  will  foler  many  more  Lords  prittey 
soune  for  it  Dont  hurt  A  Cat  Nor  the  Mouse  Nor  the  son  Nor  the 
water  Nor  the  Eare  then  goue  on  all  in  Easey  Now  bons  broaken  all 
is  well  all  in  Love  Now  I  be  gin  with  Grat  Remembrence  of  my 
father  Jorge  Washington  the  grate  he  row." 

"How  Did  Dexter  make  his  money  Inw  ye  says  bying  whale  bone 
for  stain  for  ships  in  grosing  three  houndred  &  40  tuns  bort  all  in  boston 
salum  and  all  in  Noue  york  under  Cover  oppenly  told  them  for  my  ships 
thay  all  Lafed  so  I  had  at  my  one  prise  I  had  four  Couning  men 
for  Rouners  thay  souned  the  home  as  I  told  them  to  Act  the 
fool  I  was  foull  of  Cash  I  had  Nine  tun  of  filver  on  hand  at  that  time 
all  that  time  the  Creaters  more  or  Less  Lafing  it  spread  very  fast  heare 
is  the  Rub  in  fifty  Days  thay  smelt  A  Rat  founr  where  it  was  gone 
to  Nouebry  Port  speklaters  swarmed  Like  hell  houns  to  be  short  with 
it  I  made  seventey  five  per  sent  one  tun  and  halfe  of  silver  and  over 
one  more  spect  Drole  A  Nuf  I  Dreamed  of  warming  pans  three  Nits 
that  thay  would  doue  in  the  west  ingas  I  got  not  more  than  fortey 
two  thousand  put  them  in  Nine  vessele  for  difrent  ports  that  tuck 
good  holde.  ...  I  cleared  sevinty  nine  per  sent  .  .  .  the  pans  thay  mad 
yous  of  them  for  Coucking  very  good  master  for  Coukey  blessed  good 
in  Deade  missey  got  Nise  handed  Now  bourn  my  fase  the  best  thing 
I  Ever  see  in  borne  days." 

At  the  end  of  the  second  edition,  to  remedy  the  omission  of  punctu- 
ation, the  author  inserted  a  page  filled  entirely  with  the  marks  of 
punctuation  for  readers  "to  peper  and  sollt  it  as  thay  pleased." 

The  Lowell-Johnson  House,  No.  203,  next  door,  built  in 
1774,  was  the  home  of  John  Lowell,  the  father  of  F.  C.  Lowell, 
whose  name  is  perpetuated  in  the  city  of  Lowell;  grandfather 
of  James  Russell  Lowell  and  of  John  Lowell,  founder  of  the 
Lowell  Institute  of  Boston.  In  1778  the  house  passed  into 
the  hands  of  the  Tracy  family,  who  here  entertained  the  Mar- 
quis de  Castellux,  Baron  Talleyrand,  and  other  distinguished 
Frenchmen.  The  house  at  244  was  often  visited  by  Whittier, 
and  during  his  last  years  was  practically  his  home. 

The  Merrimack  was  discovered  in  1605  by  Champlain  and  De  Monts 
who,  exploring  the  coast,  entered  the  river.  After  the  dangers  of 
Indian  attack  were  past  some  of  the  Newbury  settlers  were  tempted 
to  establish  themselves  along  the  riverbank.  The  development  of 
the  West  India  trade  and  shipbuilding  brought  the  'wealth  of  the 
Indies'  to  the  port.  Intercourse  with  foreign  lands  and  the  wealth 
of  the  merchant  princes  made  this  a  town  of  luxurious  living,  with 
interests  and  customs  having  little  in  common  with  Puritan  austerity. 
This  led  in  1764  to  the  "water  side"  being  set  off  from  Old  Newbury 
as  a  separate  township. 

The  Revolution  interfered  with  the  rapidly  expanding  trade  of 
Newburyport.  Her  merchant  princes  took  advantage  of  the  oppor- 
tunity to  convert  their  clippers  into  privateers.  During  the  war 
Newburyport  fitted  out  twenty-four  such  commerce  destroyers,  which 
captured  over  225  prizes  and  over  2200  men;  the  cargoes  sold  for 


R.  36   §   2.      NEWBURYPORT   TO    PORTSMOUTH  663 


$3.5So,ooo.  The  sloop  "Wasp"  justified  her  name;  in  three  months 
she  captured  thirteen  merchantmen,  though  herself  finally  sunk  by 
the  enemy  with  colors  flying.  On  the  other  hand  twenty-two  vessels 
with  1000  men  during  this  time  left  the  port  never  to  be  heard  from 
again.  Many  of  Newburyport's  most  valiant  sailors  languished  dur- 
ing the  war  in  the  Old  Mill  Prison  at  Plymouth,  England. 

The  height  of  her  commercial  prosperity  was  reached  in  1805  when 
the  customs  receipts  were  the  third  largest  of  any  port  in  New  Eng- 
land. Newburyport's  commerce  never  recovered  from  the  Embargo. 
The  docks  and  riverfront  were  thick  with  idle  vessels,  over  the  top- 
masts tar-barrels  were  inverted  to  preserve  the  rigging.  These  were 
known  as  "Madison's  nightcaps."  The  great  fire  of  1811,  destroying 
sixteen  acres  in  the  heart  of  the  town,  was  still  further  a  disaster  at 
this  critical  time.  Yet  for  nearly  half  a  century  more  Newburyport 
clippers  and  packets  were  famous.  In  1820  forty  vessels  that  had  been 
held  by  contrary  winds  in  the  port  put  to  sea  in  one  day.  Some  of 
the  most  famous  of  the  clipper-ships  were  Newburyport  built  and 
owned.  The  Liverpool  packet  "Dreadnought,"  known  as  'The  Flying 
Dutchman,'  built  in  1853,  was  the  largest  and  fleetest  of  her  time.  In 
1860  she  is  said  to  have  crossed  from  Sandy  Hook  to  Queenstown  in 
nine  days  and  thirteen  hours.  She  was  finally  wrecked  off  Cape  Horn 
in  1869.  The  development  of  steam  power  finally  drove  Newburyport 
commerce  from  the  sea. 

The  growth  of  manufacturing,  which  has  kept  the  town  alive,  has 
not  disastrously  modernized  it.  There  is  still  an  air  of  comfortable 
conservatism.  Many  of  the  modern  industries  are  a  natural  out- 
growth from  very  early  beginnings;  such  are  the  Towle  Manufacturing 
Company's  silverware  business,  the  Richardson  and  the  Noyes  com- 
panies' manufacture  of  combs,  and  the  leather  and  carriage  industries. 


R.  36  §  2.     Newburyport  to  Portsmouth.  27.5  m. 

Via  HAMPTON,  RYE  BEACH,  and  NEW  CASTLE. 

The  route  is  marked  with  blue  bands  on  poles  and  posts  to 
the  New  Hampshire  line,  then  by  yellow  bands  with  black 
border,  following  the  New  Hampshire  East  Side  Highway. 

Leaving  Newburyport  by  Winter  St.  and  crossing  the  Mer- 
rimack  river  the  road  leads  through  East  Salisbury  (2.5). 
Southward  is  the  view  of  Newburyport  described  by  Whittier: 
"Its  windows  flashing  to  the  sky, 
Beneath  a  thousand  roofs  of  brown, 
Far  down  the  vale,  my  friend  and  I 
Beheld  the  old  and  quiet  town; 
The  ghostly  sails  that  out  to  sea 
Flapped  their  white  wings  of  mystery; 
The  beaches  glimmering  in  the  sun, 
And  the  low  wooded  capes  that  run 
Into  the  sea-mist  north  and  south; 
The  sand-bluffs  at  the  river's  mouth; 
The  swinging  chain-bridge,  and,  afar, 
The  foam-line  of  the  harbor-bar." 

The  main  route  follows  the  blue  markers  (see  below). 
Detour  to  Salisbury  Beach  and  Great  Boar's  Head.    8.5  m. 

Salisbury  Beach  (3.5),  a  popular  seaside  resort,  was  visited 


664  NEWBURYPORT— RYE   BEACH 

by  a  disastrous  fire  in  1914.  Much  of  the  colony  has  been 
rebuilt  and  a  new  pavilion  erected  at  the  end  of  Broadway. 

There  are  but  few  homesteads  of  any  age  hereabout  because  the 
summer  boarders  of  a  century  ago  dwelt  in  tents  which  they  pitched 
on  the  sands.  Just  such  a  tent  was  that  in  which  Whittier,  Fields, 
and  Bayard  Taylor  held  their  "poetical  picnic,"  celebrated  in  the  suite 
of  poems,  "The  Tent  on  the  Beach."  At  the  extreme  southern  end 
of  the  shore,  by  the  mouth  of  the  river,  lie  the  picturesque  ruins  of  an 
old  fort,  long  since  abandoned,  from  which  there  is  a  good  view  up  the 
Merrimack  to  Newburyport. 

Inland  are  the  marshes  dotted  with  haystacks,  a  symphony 
in  soft  greens  and  browns  made  famous  by  Whittier  in  several 
of  his  poems.  To  the  northeast  the  Isles  of  Shoals  stand  out 
on  a  clear  day.  Beyond  the  State  boundary  is  Scab  rook 
Beach,  extending  to  the  Hampton  river,  which  winds  through 
the  marshes.  Near  its  mouth,  Whittier  says: 
"When  heats  as  of  a  tropic  clime 

Burned  all  our  inland  valleys  through, 
Three  friends,  the  guests  of  summer  time, 

Pitched  their  white  tent  where  sea-winds  blew." 

Here  the  tale  of  "The  Wreck  of  Rivermouth"  was  jotted  down  and 
probably  worked  into  its  metrical  form.  The  rocks  which  caused  the 
catastrophe  in  1657  are  exposed  at  low  tide  outside  the  harbor. 

Beyond  the  longest  wooden  pile  bridge  in  the  world,  situ- 
ated in  three  townships,  is  Hampton  Beach  (7.5),  a  lively  sum- 
mer place  lying  on  either  side  of  Great  Boar's  Head  (65  ft), 
a  drumlin  promontory  extending  a  quarter  mile  into  the  sea 
and  crowned  by  hotels  and  cottages.  Just  beyond  the  Head 
the  detour  joins  the  main  route  (8.5). 

From  East  Salisbury  the  main  route  follows  the  blue  markers. 
From  the  New  Hampshire  line,  marked  by  a  stone  on  the  left, 
the  markers  are  yellow.  Passing  through  the  trolley  junction 
at  Smithtown  the  route  enters 

5.5     SEABROOK.     Pop  1425.     Rockingham  Co.     Set.   1638.    Mfg. 

shoes. 

This  quiet  old  town  has  long  been  known  for  its  shoemakers. 
Many  work  in  the  factories  at  Newburyport,  but  a  few  still 
carry  on  their  trade  at  home.  The  'big  fire'  of  1914  swept 
away  all  the  old  houses. 

8.0    HAMPTON  FALLS.    Pop  560.    Rockingham  Co.    Mfg.  vine- 
gar and  extracts. 

On  the  right,  just  before  reaching  the  Post  Office,  is  the  old 
Wells  homestead,  Elmfield,  where  Whittier  often  spent  a  quiet 
day  with  his  friends,  contemplating  the  landscape  of  which  he 
was  so  fond.  Just  past  the  town  line,  in  Hampton,  beneath 
magnificent  elms  is  the  Gove  house,  where  he  died. 

HAMPTON.     Pop     (twp)    1209.    Rockingham     Co.     Settled    1638. 

Indian  name  Winnicummet,  "beautiful  place  of  pines." 
This  ancient  village  was  an  outpost  of  the  Massachusetts 


R.   36  §   2.     NEWBURYPORT   TO   PORTSMOUTH  665 

Bay  Colony.  A  blockhouse  was  built  in  1636.  The  settle- 
ment was  long  exposed  to  attacks  by  the  Winnicummet  Indi- 
ans, but  the  colonists  were  induced  to  remain  because  of  the 
salt  hay,  a  rich  and  inexpensive  fodder.  Half  a  mile  beyond 
the  village  is  a  fine  old  haunted  house  from  which  the  spooks 
were  exorcised  by  a  clergyman  from  Newburyport  who  duly 
locked  them  up  in  a  closet. 

This  was  once  the  home  of  General  Jonathan  Moulton,  mentioned 
in  Whittier's  poem  "The  New  Wife  and  the  Old,"  a  rich  landowner 
of  these  parts  who,  so  the  story  goes,  agreed  to  sell  his  soul  to  the  devil 
for  as  much  gold  as  his  boots  would  hold.  The  great  chimney  is  still 
pointed  out  as  the  funnel  through  which  the  money  was  poured  into 
the  fireplace  where  the  appointed  receptacles  stood  with  their  toes 
cut  off,  thus  cheating  the  devil  of  his  due. 

The  route,  following  the  yellow  markers,  turns  right  and  at 
the  shore  (13.5)  meets  the  detour  from  Salisbury  Beach. 

LITTLE  BOAR'S  HEAD  (15.0)  is  a  rather  quiet  and  retired 
nook  as  compared  with  its  neighbors  on  either  side.  Between 
here  and  Rye  Beach  the  route  passes  Fox  Head  Point. 

16.5     RYE   BEACH.     Pop  (Rye  twp)  1014.     Rockingham  Co. 

Rye  Beach  is  a  center  of  popular  seaside  life.  Summer 
holiday-makers  from  far  and  wide  make  this  their  playground. 
The  Abenaqui  Golf  Club,  eighteen  holes,  is  one  of  the  finest 
on  the  coast.  At  Straw  Point,  the  northern  end  of  Jenness 
Beach,  is  the  station  of  a  submarine  cable  from  England. 

The  road,  marked  by  yellow  bands,  leads  past  thickly  settled 
beaches  to  Odiornes  Point,  the  site  of  New  Hampshire's  first 
English  colony.  David  Thompson,  with  a  few  followers, 
established  a'  fortified  trading  and  fishing  station  here  in  1623, 
all  traces  of  which  have  disappeared  save  the  burying  ground. 

Great  Island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Piscataqua  is  in  the  fore- 
ground, and  across  the  river  is  Gerrish's  Island,  in  the  State 
of  Maine,  with  a  conspicuous  red  hotel.  At  the  fork  (25.5), 
after  joining  trolley,  the  main  route  follows  the  yellow  mark- 
ers direct  to  Portsmouth  (27.5;  p  666). 
Detour  to  New  Castle  and  Portsmouth.  5.0  m. 

Turning  right  this  detour  crosses  the  bridge  at  the  head  of 
Little  Harbor.  The  Hotel  Wentworth  stands  out  on  a  bluff 
to  the  north.  It  was  here  that  the  delegates  to  the  Russo- 
Japanese  peace  conference  were  entertained  in  1905. 

On  the  island  shore  is  the  Wentworth  mansion,  now  the  sum- 
mer home  of  J.  Templeman  Coolidge  of  Boston  and  formerly  the 
residence  of  Francis  Parkman,  the  historian,  who  spent  many 
a  vacation  here  working  on  his  historical  researches.  The 
interior  of  the  Wentworth  mansion  is  justly  celebrated  for  its 
unusual  richness;  the  paneling,  furniture,  and  stately  tapes- 
try surpass  the  fittings  of  any  other  country  house  of  its  period. 


666  RYE    BEACH— PORTSMOUTH 

Those  who  have  been  privileged  to  see  them,  speak  with  glow- 
ing enthusiasm  of  their  splendor,  which  has  been  carefully 
preserved  by  the  present  owners.  In  the  billiard  room  is  the 
painting  of  'Dorothy  Q,'  made  famous  by  Holmes'  poem. 

Of  the  Wentworths,  father,  son,  and  nephew,  three  of  the  last  four 
royal  Governors,  Benning  was  the  most  autocratic,  leading  the  society 
of  Portsmouth  in  high-spirited  style.  He  built  this  mansion  in  1750, 
nine  years  after  he  became  Governor.  Its  gables  and  ells,  wings  and 
apartments,  all  center  about  the  great  Council  Chamber;  in  all  there 
were  fifty-two  rooms,  seven  of  which  some  years  ago  were  ferried  across 
to  the  Maine  shore,  where  they  are  still  in  use. 

For  many  years  the  Governor  had  kept  up  the  aristocratic  tradition 
of  bees-wing  port  and  high  play  at  cards  and  startled  the  town  as  never 
before.  At  the  close  of  a  banquet  celebrating  his  sixtieth  birthday, 
he  called  in  coquettish  Martha  Hilton,  his  housemaid,  and  bade  the 
clergyman  read  the  marriage  service  then  and  there.  When  that 
worthy  hesitated,  he  was  commanded  in  the  name  of  the  law  to  pro- 
ceed. Only  a  few  days  before  Martha  had  been  a  barefoot  hoyden 
fetching  water  from  the  town  pump  with  an  abandon  of  manner  that 
brought  down  upon  her  the  rebuke  of  the  more  dignified  neighbors, 
to  which  Martha  had  saucily  replied  that  she  would  ride  in  her  carriage 
some  day  and  before  long  at  that.  Eleven  years  later  he  died  and 
Martha  inherited  the  entire  estate.  Soon  afterward  she  married 
Colonel  Wentworth,  a  retired  army  officer  and  cousin  of  the  late 
Governor.  She  is  the  subject  of  Longfellow's  "Lady  Wentworth." 

2.5     NEW  CASTLE.     Pop  (twp)  624.     Rockingham  Co. 

At  present  a  summer  suburb  of  Portsmouth,  New  Castle 
was  once  a  thriving  little  port  where  the  'mastships'  of  the 
English  Navy  used  to  load. 

This  was  in  1665,  when  Charles  II  was  only  just  prevented  from  build- 
ing a  fort  here  by  the  utmost  efforts  of  Massachusetts;  in  1603  when 
the  Stuarts  were  gone  forever  and  William  and  Mary  were  on  the 
throne,  the  settlement  was  given  its  township  rights  an*d  the  fort  was 
at  last  established.  Today  Fort  William  and  Mary  is  a  grass-grown 
ruin  and  Walbach  Tower  is  only  visited  for  the  view  from  its  battle- 
ments. It  was  attacked  Dec.  12,  1774,  by  a  band  of  Colonists  led  by 
John  Sullivan,  afterward  Major-general  in  the  Continental  Army. 
This  was  the  first  act  of  overt  treason  against  the  king  and  was  par- 
ticipated in  by  many  men  afterward  prominent  in  the  formation  of 
the  new  government. 

For  many  years  Edmund  C.  Stedman,  the  poet  and  editor, 
spent  the  summer  at  Kelp  Rock.  Professor  Barrett  Wendell 
of  Harvard  University  makes  his  summer  home  here. 

Turning  westward  the  route  crosses  a  bridge  and  enters 
Portsmouth  by  Pleasant  St.,  meeting  the  main  route  in  Market 
Square  (5.0). 

27.5  PORTSMOUTH.  Pop  11,269.  One  of  the  county-seats  of 
Rockingham  Co.  Settled  1630.  Port  of  Entry.  U.S.  Navy 
Yard.  Mfg.  cotton  cloth,  malt  liquors,  shoes,  paper,  and 
iron  castings.  Value  of  Product  (1909),  $2,871,000;  Payroll, 
$608,000. 

This  'Old  Town  by  the  Sea'  in  spite  of  modern  industry,  re- 
viving commerce,  and  many  modern  tawdry  buildings,  still  wears 


R.  36   §   2.     NEWBURYPORT   TO   PORTSMOUTH  667 

an  air  of  antiquity  and  repose.  Many  of  its  fine  old  Colonial 
mansions  are  still  owned  and  inhabited,  at  least  in  the  summer 
time,  by  descendants  of  its  old  merchant  princes. 

In  that  most  fascinating  tale  of  boyhood  "The  Story  of  a  Bad  Boy" 
occurs  this  intimate  portrayal  of  Tom  Bailey  Aldrich's  native  town: 

"The  harbor  is  so  fine  that  the  largest  ships  can  sail  directly  up  to 
the  wharves  and  drop  anchor.  Only  they  don't.  .  Years  ago  it  was 
a  famous  seaport.  Princely  fortunes  were  made  in  the  West  India 
trade;  and  in  1812,  when  we  were  at  war  with  Great  Britain,  a  number 
of  privateers  were  fitted  out  at  Rivermouth  to  prey  upon  the  merchant 
vessels  of  the  enemy.  Certain  people  grew  suddenly  and  mysteriously 
rich.  A  great  many  of  'the  first  families'  of  today  do  not  care  to  trace 
their  pedigree  back  to  the  time  when  their  grandsires  owned  shares 
in  the  Matilda  Jane,  twenty-four  guns.  Well,  Well!" 

Portsmouth  is  built  on  a  peninsula  formed  by  arms  of  the 
Piscataqua,  a  deep  estuary  miscalled  a  river.  As  New  Hamp- 
shire's only  port  it  is  the  distributing  center  for  most  of  the 
coal  used  in  the  State,  in  neighboring  portions  of  Maine,  and 
also  in  Vermont. 

Market  Square,  the  'Parade,'  is  the  center  of  the  city  now 
as  in  the  past.  On  the  east  side  is  the  oldest  bank  building 
in  the  United  States  continuously  used  for  bank  purposes. 
The  Athenaeum,  with  a  brass  cannon  on  either  side  of  its  door- 
way, was  erected  in  1803.  It  is  a  private  institution  limited 
to  membership  of  a  hundred  stockholders,  though  visitors  are 
welcomed  with  courtesy.  It  contains  collections  of  rare  books 
and  early  documents. 

Turning  toward  the  waterfront  along  the  curving  Bow  St., 
to  the  right,  on  Chapel  St.,  stands  St.  John's  Church,  a  plain 
rectangular  structure  of  brick  with  a  square  tower  and  belfry, 
all  of  excellent  proportions.  Built  in  1806  it  replaced  Queen's 
Chapel  destroyed  by  fire.  The  view  from  the  belfry  is  inter- 
esting and  the  interior  contains  much  worth  seeing.  The  font 
is  of  porphyritic  marble  with  brass  covers.  It  was  brought 
from  Senegal  by  Captain  John  Mason  in  1758,  who  probably 
bought  it  of  the  heathen  for  a  jug  of  rum.  Here  too  is  "an 
ungodly  chest  of  whistles,"  an  organ  presented  to  the  citizens 
of  the  Brattle  Street  Church  in  Boston  by  one  of  the  Brattle 
family,  which  those  pious  people  refused  to  accept.  Here  is 
treasured  one  of  the  four  "Vinegar  Bibles"  in  the  country, 
so  called  because  of  a  printer's  error  which  made  "vinegar" 
out  of  "vineyard"  in  the  parable.  Every  Sunday,  bread  is 
distributed  free  to  the  poor  of  the  church,  as  provided  in  the. 
bequest  of  one  of  the  early  parishioners.  The  bell  which  hangs 
in  the  tower  was  brought  by  Sir  William  Pepperell  in  1745  as 
part  of  the  plunder  from  Louisburg  and  was  recast  by  Paul 
Revere  in  1806.  The  graveyard  with  ivy-covered  walls  has 
many  interesting  memories  and  stories. 


668  PORTSMOUTH 

The  Warner  house,  a  block  away  at  the  corner  of  Chapel  and 
Daniel  Sts.,  was  built  in  1712  of  imported  Dutch  brick,  the 
first  brought  to  this  country.  About  fifty  years  ago,  on  peeling 
away  successive  layers  of  wall  papers  the  original  frescoes  were 
brought  to  light.  On  the  western  end  of  the  house  is  one  of 
the  first  lightning  rods  which  Benjamin  Franklin  set  up  (1762). 
The  Aldrich  Memorial,  at  45  Court  St.,  where  Thomas 
Bailey  Aldrich  was  born,  has  been  carefully  restored  to  the 
conditions  of  Aldrich's  boyhood.  Even  his  clothes  and  boy- 
hood books,  as  well  as  the  furniture  and  china  of  his  grand- 
father's day,  have  been  put  back  in  their  places,  and  many 
other  souvenirs  are  preserved  in  a  fireproof  building  close  by. 
In  the  garden  is  grown  every  flower  mentioned  in  the  author's 
poems.  Many  of  the  scenes  of  the  Bad  Boy's  adventures  can 
still  be  identified, — the  school  house,  Slatter's  Hill,  the  scene 
of  the  great  snowball  fight,  and  the  wharf  where  Tom  Bailey 

touched  the  match  to  the 
fuse  which  set  the  "Old 
Sogers"  off.  Off  Market 
Square  is  the  hill  down  which 
the  boys  rolled  "The  Plow 
Boy,"  as  the  dilapidated  old 
stage  coach  was  called, 
though  as  a  matter  of  fact 
Aldrich  did  not  share  in  the 
prank.  It  was  in  the  Whit- 
comb  house  on  the  west 
corner  of  Fleet  and  State  Sts. 
that  they  ordered  sixpenny 
and  ninepenny  ice-creams. 
THE  WARNER  HOUSE,  PORTSMOUTH  The  leader  ,of  the  boys  who 

burned  the  stage  celebrated 

each  third  of  July,  until  his  death  a  few  years  ago,  by  ordering 
his  ice-cream  in  this  same  room. 

A  tablet  on  the  corner  of  Court  and  Atkinson  Sts.  marks  the 
site  of  the  William  Pitt  Tavern,  erected  in  1770.  Washington, 
who  seems  to  have  visited  all  the  New  England  inns  on  his 
tour  of  1789,  stopped  here,  as  did  Lafayette,  Louis  Philippe, 
later  King  of  France,  John  Hancock,  and  others  of  fame  in  the 
early  days.  Before  the  Revolution  it  was  a  rendezvous  for  the 
Loyalists,  but  after  being  mobbed  in  1777  by  a  band  of  patriots 
a  new  light  dawned  upon  the  inn-keeper,  who  took  down  the 
old  sign  and  put  in  its  place  the  name  of  the  elder  Pitt,  the 
eloquent  pleader  of  the  Colonists'  cause. 

The  Governor  John  Langdon  house  (1784)  is  on  Pleasant  St. 
near  the  corner  of  Cross  St.,  opposite  the  Universalist  Church, 


R.  36   §  2.     NEWBURYPORT   TO   PORTSMOUTH  669 

and  is  still  inhabited  by  his  descendants.  In  1789  Washington 
was  banqueted  here  and  praised  the  mansion  as  the  handsomest 
in  town.  President  Monroe,  Louis  Philippe,  Lafayette,  the 
Marquis  de  Chastellux,  and  John  Hancock  have  been  guests. 

Langdon  was  a  prosperous  ship-owner  and  trader  prior  to  the  Rev- 
olution and  in  the  early  days  of  the  war  when  things  looked  dark  for 
the  Colonies  and  it  was  difficult  to  obtain  sufficient  money  to  finance 
them  he  rose  in  a  convention  of  New  Hampshire  representatives  and 
said  that  in  his  cellar  was  a  large  quantity  of  rum,  molasses,  and  other 
valuable  articles  which  he  would  pledge  together  with  the  rest  of  his 
fortune  to  the  cause  of  the  Colonies.  He  was  sent  to  the  Continental 
Congress  and  would  have  signed  the  Declaration  had  he  not  been 
sent  back  to  Portsmouth  to  superintend  the  building  of  John  Paul 
Jones'  ship  "  Ranger."  Langdon  later  became  Governor  of  New 
Hampshire  and  the  first  president  of  the  U.S.  Senate.  He  was  bitterly 
opposed  to  the  second  election  of  Washington  because  of  the  Jay  Treaty 
which  forbade  American  ships  the  right  to  enter  Canadian  ports  and 
made  no  provision  against  the  right  of  search.  Though  popular  in 
his  own  city,  in  other  towns  his  body  was  burned  in  effigy. 

Somewhat  beyond  the  Universalist  Church,  at  the  corner  of 
Edward  St.  near  Haven  Park,  is  the  Jacob  Wendell  house 
(1789),  which  is  preserved  in  almost  every  detail  as  it  stood  a 
century  or  more  ago.  Its  rooms  are  beautifully  proportioned 
and  contain  a  splendid  collection  of  antiques,  preserved  for 
more  than  a  century. 

The  Wentworths  were  perhaps  the  most  prominent  of  any  family 
in  Portsmouth  and  were  the  oldtime  rivals  in  commerce  and  politics 
of  the  Pepperells.  There  are  three  Wentworth  houses  still  remaining. 
Five  Wentworths  of  the  name  of  John  lived  in  the  town  at  different 
times.  Benning  Wentworth,  who  served  as  royal  Governor  from  1741 
to  1767,  was  in  turn  the  son  of  a  Lieutenant-governor,  and  John,  who 
succeeded  Benning,  was  his  nephew.  The  house  (1769)  of  Governor 
John  Wentworth,  the  last  of  the  royal  Governors,  is  at  the  corner  of 
Pleasant  and  Wentworth  Sts.  At  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution  a 
mob  attacked  his  house  and  he  was  obliged  to  flee.  A  broken  marble 
mantel  still  in  place  gives  evidence  of  how  the  mob  in  their  disappoint- 
ment at  his  escape  wrecked  the  house.  This  Governor  John  and  his 
lady,  who  put  an  interval  of  less  than  a  fortnight  between  husband 
number  one  and  number  two,  furnished  gossip  for  the  neighborhood. 
On  one  occasion  when  he  found  his  wife  had  gone  to  some  social  festivity 
without  his  knowledge  he  kept  her  locked  without  until  she  raised  such 
a  clatter  that  in  fear  of  scandal  he  opened  the  door  and  went  forth 
to  bring  her  in.  But  she,  by  a  sudden  dash,  reached  the  house  and 
turned  the  latch  against  her  husband,  whom  she  kept  shivering  and 
possibly  uttering  imprecations,  for  it  is  said  he  was  but  scantily  clad. 

The  earliest  of  the  Wentworth  houses,  on  a  bend  in  Manning 
St.,  looking  toward  Water  St.,  is  almost  the  oldest  house  in 
Portsmouth.  It  was  built  about  1670  by  Samuel  Wentworth, 
the  first  of  the  name  to  settle  here.  Governor  Benning  Went- 
worth and  sixteen  other  children  of  that  family  were  born  here. 
The  stout  proportions  of  the  chimney  and  the  beams  bear 
witness  to  the  age  of  the  homestead. 

The  Wentworth-Gardner   house,  56  Gardner  St.,  is  one  of 


670  PORTSMOUTH 

the  Nutting  chain  of  Colonial  houses.  Its  ornamentation 
throughout  and  the  handsome  hall  are  remarkable.  It  was 
built  by  Mark  Hunking  Wcntworth  in  1760  for  his  son  Thomas 
(adm.  25  cents). 

The  Public  Library  (1809),  on  the  corner  of  Middle  and 
Congress  Sts.,  designed  by  Bulfinch,  was  originally  used  as  an 
academy.  The  Rockingham  House,  west  of  the  corner  of 
Chestnut  and  State  Sts.,  is  in  the  center  of  a  group  of  fine 
eighteenth  century  mansions.  The  present  building  is  mainly 
new,  but  the  old  Colonial  dining  room  has  been  preserved. 
On  the  corner  of  State  and  Middle  Sts.  is  the  residence  occupied 
by  John  Paul  Jones  while  fitting  out  his  squadron. 

On  the  west  side  of  Market  St.,  between  Hanover  and  Deer 
St.,  is  the  Moffat  house,  the  first  of  the  Portsmouth  mansions 
of  this  style,  and  the  wonder  of  the  town  at  the  time  of  its 
erection  in  1763.  It  still  contains  many  of  its  original  carved 
furnishings,  the  most  notable  being  a  wooden  mantelpiece 
from  the  Moffat  house  in  Hertfordshire,  England,  a  handsome 
piece  of  carving  attributed  to  the  great  seventeenth  century 
architect  and  designer,  Grinling  Gibbons.  In  Revolutionary 
days  this  was  the  residence  of  General  Whipple,  one  of  the 
'signers'  and  a  gentleman  of  the  old  school,  who  freed  his 
slave,  Prince,  for  the  valor  he  displayed  in  fighting  for  American 
liberty.  No.  32  Vaughan  St.  is  the  house  occupied  by  Daniel 
Webster  just  after  his  marriage. 

Across  the  Maplewood  Avenue  bridge,  at  the  top  of  the  hill 
on  Northwest  St.,  facing  the  river,  is  the  oldest  house  in  Ports- 
mouth, built  by  Richard  Jackson  in  1664  and  still  in  the 
possession  of  his  descendants.  The  steep  roof  almost  reaches 
to  the  ground  at  the  back  and  has  tempted  artists  and  snap- 
shotters  for  many  years. 

On  the  west  side  of  Langdon  St.,  near  the  Mill  Pond,  is  the 
birthplace  of  Benjamin  P.  Shillaber,  an  insignificant  structure 
where  lived  his  aunt,  the  model  of  his  "Mrs.  Partington." 

The  site  of  the  old  shipyards  along  the  waterfront,  where 
Paul  Jones'  "Ranger"  was  built,  is  now  occupied  by  coal 
docks.  The  harbor  is  one  of  the  deepest  on  the  Atlantic  Coast, 
with  a  fifty-five-foot  channel  at  low  water.  Yet  aside  from 
coal  barges  and  the  occasional  government  vessels  entering 
the  Navy  Yard  there  is  almost  no  water  traffic. 

Routes  39  (p  702),  to  Manchester,  and  42  (p  708),  to  Ossipee 
and  the  White  Mountains,  branch  westward  from  Portsmouth. 

In  1603  Martin  Pring  sailed  into  the  Piscataqua  and  in  his  report 
called  it  "the  westernmost  and  best  river."  Champlain  visited  the 
harbor  in  1605,  and  Captain  John  Smith  in  1614  described  it  as  "a 
safe  harbor  with  a  rocky  shore."  Probably  influenced  by  the  accounts 
of  Pring  and  Smith,  David  Thompson  and  others  from  Plymouth, 


R.  36  §  3.  PORTSMOUTH  TO  PORTLAND  671 

England,  landed  at  Odiornes  Point  in  1623  (p  665).  In  1630  the 
Laconia  Company  sent  out  a  band  of  colonists  who  built  "the  great 
house,"  in  Water  St.,  on  the  corner  of  Court.  Church  Hill,  on  which 
St.  John's  stands,  was  then  covered  with  strawberry  vines,  so  the 
settlement  became  known  as  "Strawberry  Bank."  In  1653  the  in- 
habitants changed  the  name  to  Portsmouth  in  honor  of  John  Mason 
of  Portsmouth,  England,  the  promoter  of  the  colony.  The  fact  that 
many  of  the  settlers  were  members  of  the  Church  of  England  created 
friction  between  the  Colony  and  the  Puritans  of  Massachusetts  and 
was  one  of  the  causes  which  led  to  the  separation  of  New  Hampshire 
as  a  separate  province  in  1670. 

Among  the  industrial  firms  are  the  Morley  Button  Company,  the 
Gale  Shoe  Company,  the  Jones  Brewing  Company,  the  Colonial  Paper 
Company,  and  the  Ellery  Twist  Drill  Company. 


R.  36  §  3.     Portsmouth  to  Portland.  53.5  m. 

Via    YORK    HARBOR,    KENNEBUNK,    and    BIDDEFORD;  with 

detours  to  KITTERY,  KENNEBUNKPORT,  and  OLD  ORCHARD. 

The  route  is  varied,  now  skirting  the  rugged  coast,  and 
again  running  inland  through  rolling  farm  country.  The 
fashionable  York  Harbor,  popular  York  Beach,  the  artist 
colony  of  Ogunquit,  exclusive  Biddeford  Pool,  and  Old  Orchard, 
the  Mecca  of  excursionists,  are  the  principal  features.  The 
route  throughout  is  State  Road  of  varied  types  of  construction. 
Beyond  the  Kittery  bridge  it  is  gravel  treated  with  Tarvia  B 
(p  800) ;  through  Kittery  and  York  is  another  type  of  Tarvia 
construction;  through  Wells  and  beyond  it  is  concrete  coated 
with  Tarvia. 

From  Market  Square,  Portsmouth,  the  route  follows  Market 
St.,  crossing  the  Piscataqua  river  by  the  Toll  Bridge  (15  cents), 
a  ramshackly  old  structure.  Its  approaches  are  sordid  to 
the  last  degree  and  the  view  largely  comprises  the  Jones 
Brewery,  which  seems  to  threaten  the  prohibition  state  across 
the  river.  On  the  Maine  shore  the  main  route  follows  the 
State  Road  inland  across  the  head  of  Spruce  Creek  to  York 
Corners  (p  673). 
Detour  to  Kittery,  Navy  Yard,  and  Kittery  Point.  5.0  m. 

The  first  turn  to  the  right  beyond  the  bridge  leads  to 
1.0     KITTERY.     Pop  (twp)  3533.     York  Co.     Settled  1623. 

A  sentry -guarded  bridge  leads  to  the  "pork-barrel"  Navy 
Yard,  situated  in  Kittery,  Me.,  but  arrogated  to  itself  by 
Portsmouth,  N.H.  It  occupies  Continental  Island,  bought 
by  the  Government  in  1800  for  $5500,  and  Seaveys  Island, 
just  below.  Between  the  two  is  the  drydock,  750  feet  long, 
100  feet  wide,  and  35  feet  deep,  of  s"olid  rock.  Since  1900 
the  Government  has  expended  more  than  $2,000,000  on  build- 
ings and  equipment.  On  depositing  cameras  visitors  are 
permitted  to  walk  or  motor  among  the  workshops,  arsenals. 


672  KITTERY— YORK 

ship-houses,  and  other  buildings.  Here  in  days  gone  by 
many  famous  frigates  were  launched,  among  them  the  "Kear- 
sarge"  which  sank  the  "Alabama"  off  Cherbourg,  June  u, 
1864.  The  "America,"  sent  to  France  as  a  gift  to  Louis  XVI 
after  the  Revolution,  was  built  on  Badger  Island,  now  a  part 
of  the  Yard.  During  the  latter  part  of  the  Spanish-American 
War  naval  prisoners  were  confined  in  one  of  the  great  granite 
buildings.  Admiral  Cervera  and  a  number  of  other  captured 
Spanish  officers  were  also  quartered  here  for  a  brief  period. 
A  memorial  tablet  on  one  of  the  ship-houses  attests  the  fact 
that  in  1905  the  Russian  and  Japanese  Peace  Commissioners 
here  negotiated  the  Treaty  of  Portsmouth. 

Leaving  the  Navy  Yard  follow  the  car  tracks,  right,  to  the 
old  yellow  Congregational  Church  (1730),  opposite  which  is  the 
cemetery  with  the  graves  of  numerous  sea-captains,  and  mon- 
uments  to   those   lost  at   sea. 
One  of  these  is  inscribed,  "Here 
lies  the  body  of  Captain  Brown, 
He   was   drowned   at   sea   and 
never  was  found." 

The  old  Pepperell  mansion 
(1682),  a  large  gambrel- roofed 
structure  directly  opposite  the 
Kittery  Point  Post  Office,  is 
the  show-place  of  the  town.  It 
was  built  in  1682.  Weather- 

beaten,   neglected,  and    dilapi- 

FORT  MCCLARY,  KITTERY  dated,  with  tiny  quaint  window- 

panes,  it  still  suggests  former 

respectability.  In  the  ancient  Bray  homestead  (1660)  lived 
Margery  Bray,  who  became  Pepperell's  wife.  The  Pepperell 
tomb,  with  the  monument  which  was  imported  from  England 
and  bears  the  family  coat-of-arms,  lies  between  the  road  and 
the  Pepperell  Hotel. 

To  the  rear  of  the  house  is  the  old  garden,  at  the  foot  of  which  were 
wharves,  where  salt  fish,  naval  stores,  and  goods  imported  for  the 
country  trade  were  landed.  William  Pepperell,  the  son  of  the  mer- 
chant, was  born  in  the  old  house  in  i6g6.  When  he  was  thirty-one 
he  was  elected  a  member  of  the  King's  Council  for  the  Province  of 
Massachusetts  and  retained  that  position  for  thirty-two  years.  He 
commanded  the  expedition  against  Louisburg  in  1745  and  after  reduc- 
ing that  town  he  was  made  a  baronet.  He  was  Chief  Justice  and 
Lieutenant-general  and  became  a  great  landowner,  having  a  domain 
of  about  100  square  miles.  He  died  in  1759.  His  grandson  was 
also  a  man  of  mark  and  was  created  a  baronet  in  1774.  His  estates 
were  confiscated  because  of  his  Tory  leanings. 

The  yellow  house  on  the  corner,  a  little  further  on,  is  now 
pwned  by  Mr.  Stephen  Pecatur,  grandson  of  the  famous 


R.  36  §  3.     PORTSMOUTH   TO   PORTLAND  673 

Admiral.  The  next  house  was  formerly  the  summer  home  of 
William  Dean  Howells,  who  had  his  library  and  study  in  the 
adjoining  building,  once  the  barn.  Back  from  the  street  on 
the  right  on  Battery  Hill,  surrounded  by  trees  and  brambles 
and  bushes,  is  Fort  McClary,  an  old  blockhouse  in  fair  preser- 
vation. Originally  called  Fort  Pepperell,  it  received  its  present 
name  from  John  Stark's  comrade  at  the  Battle  of  Bunker  Hill. 
The  fine  elms  that  shade  the  harbor  road  for  two  miles  date 
back  to  the  time  of  Major  Thomas  Cutts,  who  kept  store 
in  the  Pepperell  mansion  in  1791  and  gave  Samuel  Blake  a 
contract  to  set  them  out  at  the  rate  of  one  pint  of  rum  for  each. 
The  ninety  trees  originally  planted  must  have  brought  Blake 
almost  a  hogshead.  The  left  fork,  beyond  the  village  of 
Kittery  Point,  joins  the  main  route  (5.0). 

Beyond  Spruce  Creek  the  main  route  follows  the  State  Road 
up  a  long,  easy  grade,  from  the  top  of  which  is  a  view  of  Mt. 
Agamenticus,  which  the  natives  call  Adamaticus,  rising  ab- 
ruptly beyond  the  valley  of  the  York  river.  Agamenticus 
(673  ft)  is  the  mariner's  landmark  all  along  this  coast.  It  has 
three  humps,  the  more  southwestern  being  the  highest  and 
boldest.  According  to  local  tradition  it  was  an  ancient  meeting 
place  of  Indian  tribes,  and  the  medicine-man  St.  Aspenquid, 
sainted  by  the  Jesuit  missionaries,  is  buried  on  its  summit. 

A  few  hundred  yards  beyond,  where  the  road  dips  again,  on 
the  right  was  the  home  of  Esther  Brooks  and  Betsy  Potter, 
who  in  the  early  part  of  the  last  century  for  years  successfully 
evaded  paying  their  taxes,  relying  on  the  legal  entanglement 
resulting  from  the  situation  of  their  house  on  the  line  between 
Kittery  and  York.  Retribution  overtook  these  tax-dodgers: 
in  President  Jackson's  rebate  of  surplus  revenue  in  1837 — 
the  only  time  the  Government  ever  'cut  a  melon' — these 
thrifty  souls  received  never  a  penny. 

A  mile  and  a  half  beyond  York  Kiver,  the  road  forks  at  YORK 
CORNERS  (7.5).  The  road  straight  ahead  leads  by  the  inland 
route  to  Cape  Neddick  Post  Office  (11.5)  and  York  Cliff. 
Turning  right  the  main  route  passes  through  YORK  VILLAGE 
along  the  road  from  The  Corners  to  York  and  York  Harbor. 

8.5     YORK.     Summer  pop   (twp)  8000;  winter  pop  2802.     York  Co. 

Settled  1624. 

An  ancient  community,  the  beauty  of  its  situation  continues 
to  attract  ever-increasing  numbers  of  summer  residents.  The 
sea,  the  woods,  a  beautiful  river,  and  Mt.  Agamenticus  loom- 
ing beyond  with  the  lake  at  its  foot,  together  afford  great  vari- 
ety of  landscape.  York  River,  York  Village,  and  York  Corners 
are  all-the-year-round  communities,  and  York  Harbor  and 


674  YORK 

Seabury  are  summer  colonies,  while  York  Beach  further  on 
has  the  '  Gay  White  Way.'  York  River  is  an  eight-mile  stretch 
of  water  for  canoeing,  though  the  tide  flows  very  rapidly 
through  Sewall's  Bridge  a  mile  above  the  harbor.  BuUt  in 
1761,  it  is  the  oldest  pile  bridge  in  America. 

Opposite  the  Church  and  the  Town  Hall,  on  a  slight  ridge, 
is  the  venerable  stone  jail,  with  heavy  doors  and  saw-blade 
gratings  dating  from  1653.  At  the  suggestion  of  William 
Dean  Howells  it  has  been  converted  into  a  Colonial  Museum. 
Among  the  exhibits  of  earlier  days  is  a  Bible  which  belonged 
to  William  Trickey,  a  local  outcast  who  achieved  some  noto- 
riety as  a  pirate,  hermit,  and  soothsayer,  and  was  confined 
in  the  grim  dungeon.  In  his  Bible  he  inscribed: 

"William  Trickey  was  born|Augest  3rd,  1770] William  Trickey  his 
Book|  god  giv  him  grace  therein  to  look!  and  when  the  beell|  doth  for 
him  tol  thej  lord  of  heven  rcev  his  Soul."| 

Bordering  the  river  is  the  York  Country  Club  with  its  excel- 
lent golf  links  and  tennis  courts,  on  which  $100,000  has 
recently  been  spent.  On  the  south  side  of  the  river  near  the 
shore  is  the  house  where  Robert  Herrick,  the  novelist,  often 
spends  a  few  weeks  before  and  after  the  fashionable  Summer 
season.  At  Pollock  Rock  stands  the  Italian  villa  of  H.  T. 
Nichols,  which  is  generally  leased  to  some  wealthy  family. 
Most  of  the  Summer  cottages  and  hotels  are  situated  on  the 
northern  bank  of  the  river,  along  the  harbor  front,  and  on 
the  shore  facing  the  open  ocean  with  the  Isles  of  Shoals  on  the 
south  and  Boon  Island  on  the  east.  York  Harbor's  one 
bathing  beach  is  on  the  narrow  strip  which  serves  as  a  cause- 
way. On  the  craggy  shore  is  the  "Reading  Room,"  or  men's 
club,  which  is  regarded  as  rather  exclusive.  Ladies,  however, 
share  in  its  privileges.  Its  success  and  popularity  have  been 
due  largely  to  the  efforts  of  the  Hon.  Thomas  Nelson  Page, 
now  Minister  to  Italy,  whose  fine  villa  a  few  rods  beyond,  and 
somewhat  aloof  from  the  main  street,  has  been  the  scene  of 
many  hospitalities.  The  development  of  the  Norwood  Farm, 
which  threw  into  the  market  a  large  extent  of  wooded  land, 
has  attracted  a  particularly  interesting  colony:  here  in  a 
pleasant  semi-brick  house  William  Dean  Howells  and  his 
daughter  Miss  Mildred  Howells  spend  a  long  season;  Finley 
Peter  Dunne,  better  known  as  'Mr.  Dooley,'  for  several 
seasons  occupied  a  nearby  cottage.  Further  down  the  shore 
are  the  large  mansions  of  the  Cheneys  and  of  the  artist  Lock- 
wood  De  Forest.  John  Fox  and  Thomas  Bailey  Aldrich  have 
also  been  among  the  literary  lights  of  York  Harbor.  Many 
wealthy  families  from  Boston,  New  York,  and  Philadelphia 
occupy  stately  villas. 


R.  36  §  3.  PORTSMOUTH  TO  PORTLAND  675 


The  natural  advantages  of  the  region  having  been  early  reported 
in  England,  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  and  John  Mason,  after  various 
attempts  had  been  made  to  settle  the  coast,  secured  a  grant  of  24,000 
acres  lying  on  both  sides  of  the  Accomaticus,  or  Agamenticus,  river,  and 
sent  over  men  and  building  materials  to  aid  in  its  development.  The 
little  borough  was  at  first  called  after  the  name  of  the  river;  but  in 
1642  it  was  incorporated  as  a  city,  the  first  in  America,  under  the 
high-sounding  name  of  Gorgeana,  with  mayor,  aldermen,  justices,  and 
other  officials,  just  as  in  a  comic  opera.  In  1652  the  province  of  Maine 
submitted  to  Massachusetts,  the  charter  of  the  city  was  revoked  and 
it  was  reincorporated  as  York. 

In  1692  the  little  settlement  was  nearly  exterminated  by  an  Indian 
raid  of  300  Abenaki  Indians.  Only  three  blockhouses  escaped  pillage 
and  fire,  and  all  the  men  were  killed;  but  the  women  and  children, 
who  were  taken  prisoners,  were  later  allowed  to  go  free.  One  little 
boy,  Jeremiah  Moulton,  four  years  old,  left  in  the  ruins  of  his  home, 
as  a  captain  took  revenge  for  the  massacre  by  leading  a  band  against 
the  camp  of  these  Indians  and  practically  exterminating  them. 

From  1716  to  1735  it  was  the  shire  town  of  York  County,  which 
then  comprised  the  whole  of  Maine.  In  the  eighteenth  century  it 
enjoyed  a  good  share  of  the  commerce  with  the  East  Indies  and 
afterward  became  a  rather  important  fishing  town.  It  boasts  the 
site  of  one  of  the  first  cotton  mills  in  Maine.  Its  vogue  as  a  summer 
resort  dates  from  1857.  One  of  Hawthorne's  most  somber  tales, 
"The  Minister's  Black  Veil,"  was  suggested  to  the  author  by  the  prac- 
tice of  the  Rev.  Joseph  Moody,  who  wore  a  handkerchief  before  his 
disfigured  face  and  was  accordingly  known  as  'Handkerchief  Moody.' 

The  shore  road  from  York  Harbor  runs  just  back  of  a  fine, 
hard  stretch  of  sand  known  as  Long  Beach.  Before  us  is 
Cape  Neddick,  having  at  its  tip  The  Nubble,  a  rocky  island 
with  a  lighthouse,  separated  from  the  Cape  by  a  narrow  channel 
through  which  the  tide  surges,  but  accessible  at  low  water. 
The  keeper  has  an  interesting  collection  of  stuffed  birds,  many 
of  which  perished  by  striking  the  windows  at  night.  Off 
shore  stands  Boon  Island  Light,  a  tall  brown  shaft  of  masonry 
built  on  a  low-lying  ledge  once  so  dangerous  and  deserted 
that  occasionally  those  that  found  shelter  on  it  died  of  star- 
vation before  relief  arrived  from  the  mainland. 

YORK  BEACH  (13.0)  is  a  popular  resort  between  Portsmouth 
and  Portland.  The  shore  line  trolley  and  a  branch  of  the 
R.R.  bring  numerous  excursionists.  The  principal  beach  is 
south  of  Cape  Neddick,  while  another,  not  so  long  but  very 
popular,  is  on  the  northern  side.  P'rom  here,  turning  to  the 
left,  the  State  Road  runs  inland  by  Cape  Neddick  Post  Office 
to  Ogunquit  (p  676). 

Detour  via  the  shore  to  Bald  Head  Cliff  and  Ogunquit.       5.5  m. 

By  following  the  shore  road,  crossing  a  long  wooden  bridge 
and  turning  to  the  right,  we  reach  York  Cliffs.  The  road 
winds  between  wide  fields  and  the  rugged  shore,  passing  the 
domain  of  Mrs.  Conarroe  of  Philadelphia  with  its  stone  villa 
and  its  memorial  church,  St.  Peter's-by-the-Sea,  a  landmark 


676  YORK— WELLS 

from  all  sides.  This  region  was  recently  an  almost  primeval 
forest,  but  devastating  fires  and  the  destructive  portable  saw- 
mill have  stripped  the  country,  leaving  gray  rocky  crests. 

Bald  Head  Cliff,  with  its  treeless  moor  and  rather  ugly 
hotel,  is  reached  by  a  private  road,  for  the  use  of  which  a  fee 
is  demanded.  The  stratified  rock  has  been  turned  up  on  edge, 
making  a  barrier  over  which  the  waves  dash  in  heavy  weather. 
Half  a  mile  beyond  is  High  Pasture.  A  cavern  in  the  cliffs 
near  here  has  been  explored  for  seventy-five  feet.  At  low 
tide  the  billows  spout  high  from  its  mouth.  Gun  Rock  is  so 
called  from  the  roar  heard  for  several  miles  when  a  breaker 
happens  to  hit  it  in  just  the  right  manner.  The  Devil's 
Kitchen,  the  Devil's  Pulpit,  and  other  strange  rock  formations 
are  scattered  along  the  shore. 

The  road  now  passes  between  almost  parallel  ridges  of  rock. 
On  the  one  at  the  left  is  perched  the  house  and  studio  of  Mr. 
E.  R.  Kingsbury;  on  the  other  is  Grayrock,  the  red-tiled  cot- 
tage of  John  Kendrick  Bangs,  flanked  by  a  delightful  garden 
which  people  come  for  miles  to  see.  Mr.  Bangs  in  his  most 
solemn  manner  passes  the  contribution  box  at  St.  Peter's 
and  thus  does  penance  for  making  other  people  laugh  at  his 
own  "salubrities."  Though  his  house  is  really  in  York  and  his 
post  office  is  Cape  Neddick,  he  prides  himself  on  being  an 
Ogunquitter  and  he  is  claimed  by  that  artistic  colony. 

Just  beyond  is  the  artist  colony  of  Perkins  Cove.  Here 
Charles  H.  Woodbury,  the  marine  painter,  has  his  house  and 
studio  and  sufficient  land  to  secure  that  end  of  the  town  from 
being  too  closely  settled.  His  Summer  School  of  painting 
is  always  well  attended  and  it  has  been  said  that  in  order  to 
give  each  pupil  a  rock  on  which  to  perch  he  has  had  to  split 
several  into  less  generous  sizes.  The  picturesqueness  of  the 
Cove  itself  has  been  greatly  injured  by  the  building  of  more 
or  less  sophisticated  studios  and  an  attempt  to  set  the  weather- 
beaten  fish-houses  into  regular  order.  Even  the  replacing 
of  the  little  foot-bridge  across  Josius  River  by  one  set  on  cement 
piers,  while  adding  to  safety,  did  not  enhance  the  beauty  of 
the  place.  The  detour  regains  the  main  road  at  Ogunquit. 

OGUNQUIT  (18.5)  twenty-five  years  ago  was  a  small,  iso- 
lated fishing  village  reached  only  by  stage.  Now  it  has  blos- 
somed out  into  a  popular  Summer  resort.  The  attractive  beach 
fortunately  has  been  kept  from  any  encroachment  of  small 
mushroom  cottages.  It  is  about  three  miles  long  and  at  its 
widest  lies  at  low  tide  flat  for  five  hundred  yards.  The  sand 
glows  ruddy  with  microscopic  garnets  which  give  it  marvelous 
colors  through  the  day.  The  Ogunquit  river  empties  into  the 
sea  at  the  foot  of  Israels  Head,  a  sandy  bluff. 


R.  36   §  3.      PORTSMOUTH    TO    P</RTLAND  677 

Ogunquit  has  been  almost  as  well  favored  with  writers  as 
with  artists.  Each  summer  the  poetic  club  which  calls  itself 
Parnassus  attracts  to  its  Sunday  morning  meetings  such  men 
as  Nixon  Waterman,  Dr.  George  Jay  Smith  of  the  New  York 
Board  of  Education,  Dr.  Herbert  Nichols,  the  punning  phi- 
losopher Nathan  Haskell  Dole,  one  of  the  pioneer  visitors  at 
Ogunquit,  Findlay  Ferguson  Bush  of  Louisville,  Dana  Burnet 
of  the  "New  York  Evening  Sun,"  and  others. 

A  list  of  artists  who  have  found  inspiration  at  Ogunquit 
would  fill  a  page:  the  titles  of  pictures  in  the  art  exhibitions 
show  how  many  have  been  painted  here.  Among  those  that 
have  permanent  residences  are  J.  C.  Nicoll,  N.A.,  President 
of  the  New  York  Water  Color  Society,  Messrs.  Davol,  White- 
side,  Hamilton  Easter  Field,  the  late  Robert  Arthur,  Frederick 
Vinton,  and  the  sculptor  Victor  Brenner. 

The  Village  Studio,  built  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Edward  R.  Hoyt 
of  St.  Louis,  offers  abundant  opportunities  for  exhibitions  as 
well  as  for  entertainments.  On  the  main  street  of  the  village 
stands  the  Conarroe  Free  Memorial  Library,  an  attractive 
little  stone  edifice  with  a  good  selection  of  reference  works  and 
standard  literature. 

Beyond  the  old  village  at  the  northern  end  of  Ogunquit  the 
road  passes  through  Moodys,  a  hamlet  whence  a  road  to  the 
right  leads  across  the  marshes  of  Webhannet  River  to  Web- 
hannet,  one  of  the  earlier  seaside  communities.  These  smooth, 
hard  beaches  of  white  sand  were  the  early  settlers'  highroad. 
It  is  said  that  for  years  the  mail  was  carried  from  Portsmouth 
to  Wells  along  the  beach  by  a  dog  with  a  pouch  on  his  collar. 

24.5  WELLS.  Alt  203  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1908.  York  Co.  Settled 
1640.  Indian  name  Webhannet. 

Wells  itself  is  an  all-the-year-round,  oldfashioned  village, 
described  as  "not  a  town,  but  a  street."  It  lines  the  highway 
for  two  miles  from  the  Webhannet  to  the  Merriland  rivers. 

In  1638  young  John  Wheelwright,  unable  to  agree  on  certain  religious 
matters  with  the  Boston  theologians,  fled  north  and  settled  at  Exeter, 
N.H.  In  1643  he  came  to  Wells  for  two  years,  then  went  back  to- 
Hampton,  and  eventually  to  Salisbury,  and  was  at  last  reconciled  with 
Massachusetts.  He  owned  all  the  land  between  the  Ogunquit  and 
Mousam  rivers  and  his  son  occupied  a  garrison  house  surrounded  by 
palisades.  Once  when  a  wedding  was  taking  place  there  a  report  came 
in  that  two  horses  had  strayed  away.  The  men  who  went  out  to  fetch 
them  back  were  shot  down  by  the  Indians.  The  bridegroom  and  sev- 
eral others  who  heard  the  gunshots  went  out  to  their  aid  and  were 
captured  and  taken  to  Norridgewock,  where  they  were  kept  until  a 
substantial  ransom  was  paid.  A  bronze  tablet  in  a  field  at  the  side  of 
the  road  commemorates  these  events.  The  first  minister  at  Wells 
was  George  Burroughs  (p  688),  who  escaped  the  massacre  of  1776  by 
fleeing  to  one  of  the  islands  in  Casco  Bay,  whence  he  again  fled  from 
the  Indians  to  perish  in  the  Salem  witch  executions. 


678  WELLS— BIDDEFORD 

The  main  road,  concrete  treated  with  Tarvia,  leads  through 
the  hamlet  of  Elms  (26.0)  to  Kennebunk. 
Detour  to  Kennebunkport.  9.5  m. 

At  Elms  the  road  to  the  right,  following  the  King's 
Highway  of  1650  along  the  Indian  trail,  leads  to  Kennebunk 
Beach,  a  prosperous  hotel  and  cottage  resort.  Along  the 
shore  are  a  few  hamlets  inhabited  by  fisher-folk  who  live  by 
dory-fishing  and  lobstering.  Some  of  their  old  houses  used 
to  stand  in  stockades  for  protection  from  the  Indians.  Today 
descendants  of  these  tribes  still  camp  here  in  summer,  selling 
their  primitive  baskets  and  curios. 

Since  1870  KENNEBUNKPORT  (4.5)  has  been  a  constantly 
growing  summer  resort,  more  popular  and  fashionable  because 
of  the  beauty  of  the  wild  and  rocky  shores  of  Cape  Arundel 
and  the  delicate  charm  of  the  Kennebunk  river,  which  takes 
its  name  from  an  Indian  word  meaning  "long,  smooth  water." 
The  Blowing  Cave  and  the  Spouting  Rock  are  two  of  its  wilder 
features  among  the  crags,  and  it  has  also  a  fine  beach.  The 
view  from  the  south  end  of  the  promontory  commands  a  wide 
horizon,  including  the  White  Mountains,  Maine  and  New 
Hampshire  hills,  Mt.  Agamenticus,  and  Cape  Neddick. 

The  river  is  often  crowded  with  boats  and  canoes  full  of 
leisurely  holiday-makers  who  drift  upstream  with  the  tide  to 
Sunset  Rock  and  come  back  with  it  when  it  turns.  Each 
year  there  is  a  Boating  Carnival  with  fireworks  and  illumina- 
tions. Some  of  the  handsomest  cottages  are  situated  on  its 
banks  in  preference  to  the  ocean  front.  The  Arundel  golf 
course  of  eighteen  holes  has  good  natural  hazards. 

There  is  a  considerable  literary  group  at  Kennebunkport. 
The  late  John  T.  Trowbridge  (1827-1916),  the  Nestor  of  Ameri- 
can authors  and  prophet  of  aviation,  was  one  of  the  earliest 
summer  residents.  His  earlier  books  for  boys,  "Cudjo's 
Cave"  and  "The  Three  Scouts,"  were  read  by  our  fathers  and 
grandfathers.  Booth  Tarkington  and  Margaret  Deland  are 
among  the  novelists  who  reside  here  in  summer.  A  group  of 
artists,  of  whom  Abbott  Graves  is  the  chief,  also  summer  here. 

Captain  Gosnold,  the  explorer,  is  supposed  to  have  landed  here 
in  the  summer  of  1602,  and  Captain  John  Smith  visited  Cape  Porpoise 
and  the  Kennebunk  river.  In  its  prime,  a  century  later,  it  was  a 
famous  shipbuilding  center,  as  Kennebunk's  Custom  House,  built 
about  1800,  and  the  wharves  and  locks  will  show. 

Beyond  Kennebunkport  lies  the  village  of  Cape  Porpoise 
with  an  excellent  harbor  protected  by  rocky  islands  off  shore. 
The  detour  turns  inland  and,  following  the  trolley,  rejoins  the 
main  route  (9.5). 

The  State  Road  from  Wells  through  Elms  leads  inland  to 


R.  36  §  3.     PORTSMOUTH   TO    PORTLAND  679 

29.0  KENNEBUNK.  Alt  51  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3099.  York  Co.  Set- 
tled 1650.  Mfg.  leatherboard,  shoe  counters,  and  worsted. 

Kennebunk  is  a  manufacturing  community,  located  here 
because  of  the  waterpower  from  the  Mousam  river.  It  is  a 
quaint  old  place  of  irregular,  heavily  shaded  streets  lined  with 
the  old  Colonial  mansions  of  former  ship  masters,  owners,  and 
builders,  filled  with  relics  and  curios  brought  back  from  the 
long  voyages  of  a  century  ago. 

Kennebunk  Landing  and  port  are  on  the  Kennebunk  river. 
It  suffered  during  the  Indian  Wars  and  was  deserted  for  many 
years.  Until  1821  it  was  known  as  "Arundel."  The  Lafay- 
ette elm  here  is  a  notable  specimen  over  five  feet  in  diameter. 

The  route  crosses  the  Kennebunk  river  and  joins  the  detour 
from  Kennebunkport  (32.0),  continuing  inland  to 

38.0  BIDDEFORD.  Pop  17,079;  one  third  foreign-born.  York  Co. 
Settled  1630.  Mfg.  cotton  goods,  lumber,  and  cotton  mill 
machinery;  granite.  Value  of  Product  (1909),  $9,011,000; 
Payroll,  $2,115,000. 

Biddeford  is  an  important  mill  town  six  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Saco  river,  which  here  falls  fifty  feet.  The  river  is 
navigable  nine  months  in  the  year  for  barges  and  schooners, 
which  bring  heavy  freight.  The  local  waterpower  is  supple- 
mented by  hydro-electric  power  transmitted  from  the  river 
above.  Biddeford  and  Saco  on  the  opposite  bank,  though 
separate  municipalities,  are  'Twin  Cities'  with  many  inter- 
ests in  common.  In  the  river  are  several  rocky  islands. 

Biddeford  is  third  among  Maine  cities  in  the  value  of  its 
products,  by  the  census  reports  of  1909,  being  exceeded  only 
by  Portland  and  Lewiston.  The  Pepperell  Mfg.  Co.  and  the 
York  Mfg.  Co.  at  Saco  together  employ  about  6000  hands 
in  the  production  of  cotton  sheetings,  denims,  ginghams,  and 
madras.  Log  drives  from  the  White  Mountain  foothills  bring 
down  millions  of  feet  of  lumber  each  year,  handled  by  J.  G. 
Deering  &  Son  and  the  Diamond  Match  Company,  the  latter 
plant  making  the  blocks  which  are  elsewhere  split  up  for 
matches.  The  quarries  supply  a  granite  of  unusual  hardness 
which  has  been  used  for  the  towers  of  the  Brooklyn  Bridge 
and  for  foundations  of  many  buildings  and  bridges  through- 
out the  East.  The  Saco-Lowell  shops  manufacture  cotton 
mill  machinery  and  the  Hodsdon  plant  turns  out  a  high  grade 
of  women's  shoes.  Other  firms  produce  cotton  pickers'  belting, 
shirt-waists,  and  wooden  boxes. 

The  valuable  waterpower  early  made  this  a  center  of  the  lumber 
industry.  In  1655  the  first  sawmill  was  erected.  The  local  Indians, 
known  as  the  Sokoki,  were  friendly  to  the  white  settlers  until  1675,  when 
a  party  of  soldiers  from  the  fort,  crossing  the  river,  saw  an  Indian  squaw 
and  a  papoose  in  a  canoe  and,  to  see  if  an  Indian  baby  could  not  swim 
naturally,  overturned  the  craft.  The  Sachem  Squando,  whose  child 


68o  BIDDEFORD— SCARBORO 


it  was,  swore  revenge  and  stirred  up  the  terrible  uprising  of  1675  along 
all  this  coast.  The  Major  Phillips  blockhouse,  whither  the  frightened 
settlers  fled,  stood  in  Biddeford,  on  the  land  now  owned  by  the  Pep- 
perell  corporation.  A  tablet  of  bronze  placed  on  the  wall  of  a  mill 
on  Main  St.,  by  the  D.A.R.,  marks  the  site  of  this  fort.  In  1800 
eleven  sawmills  were  running;  in  1849  there  were  seventeen,  cutting 
4,500,000  feet  annually,  while  today  there  are  but  two,  with  an  annual 
output  of  about  15,000,000  feet.  Cotton  mills  were  first  established 
here  by  Boston  capitalists  in  1825.  Pepperell  sheetings  and  drills 
are  widely  known  and  have  long  been  a  standard  article  of  export  to 
the  Chinese  trade. 

Note.  BIDDEFORD  POOL.  This  pleasant  resort  may  be 
reached  by  a  seven-mile  trip  down  the  river.  Biddeford  Pool 
today  has  a  conservative  and  exclusive  summer  colony  patron- 
ized largely  by  New  York  and  Western  people  of  wealth. 
James  Montgomery  Flagg's  house  stands  far  out  on  the  head- 
land. The  Pool  was  the  site  of  the  earliest  settlement  in  this 
region  and  contains  many  interesting  and  historic  old  houses. 
Chief  of  these  is  the  old  Haley  house  (1717),  with  which  are 
connected  some  of  the  most  thrilling  of  Indian  experiences. 
Directly  across  the  Gut  from  Biddeford  Pool  is  historic  Fort 
Hill,  so  called  from  the  old  fort  that  served  as  a  shelter  for  the 
inhabitants  round  about.  The  site  of  old  Fort  Mary  is  marked 
by  a  monument  and  its  name  is  perpetuated  in  Whittier's 
poem  "Mary  Garvin": 

"The  evening  gun  had  sounded  from  gray  Fort  Mary's  walls; 
Through  the  forest,  like  a  wild  beast,  roared  and  plunged  the  Saco's 
falls." 

Just  back  of  Fort  Hill  near  Hitchcock's  Point  is  the  old 
Goldthwaite  house,  built  by  Captain  Samuel  Jordan  in  1717, 
the  oldest  structure  in  the  town,  said  to  have  figured  as  a  place 
of  clandestine  meetings  at  the  time  of  the  Revolution.  And 
at  the  turn  of  the  road  leading  to  Fort  Hill  is  the  old  Jordan 
house  built  in  1740,  often  the  gathering  place  of  the  Commit- 
tee of  Safety  and  the  scene  of  other  important  meetings. 

South  of  the  Pool  are  the  Fortune  Rocks,  where  there  is  a 
considerable  cottage  colony,  and  just  beyond,  Whitneys  Point, 
Curtis  Cove,  and  Timber  Island  are  summer  resorts. 

De  Monts,  the  French  navigator,  was  the  first  to  poke  his  ship  into 
the  harbor.  In  1616  Richard  Vines,  employed  by  Sir  Ferdinando 
Gorges,  entered  the  harbor  of  Biddeford  Pool  and  established  winter 
quarters,  building  the  first  house  in  this  region  near  the  junction  of 
Fletcher's  Neck  and  the  mainland.  "The  house  of  Capt.  Richard 
Vines  was  a  log  cabin  with  wide  fireplace,  built  of  stones  gathered  on 
the  heach,  thatched  with  very  long  grass  gathered  from  the  marsh, 
and  carpeted  with  fragrant  boughs  of  hemlock." 

39.0     SACO.     Alt  75  ft.     Pop  6583.     York  Co.     Settled  1623. 

The  city  limits  enclose  an  area  of  approximately  forty  square 
miles  and  is  immediately  across  the  river  from  Biddeford, 
whose  industrial  interests  it  shares.  The  York  Mfg.  Co.'s  mills 


R.  36  §  3.   PORTSMOUTH  TO  PORTLAND  68 1 

and  the  Garland  Co.'s  plant  are  located  here.  It  is,  however, 
mainly  a  residential  community,  with  a  park  of  thirty  acres, 
and  Thornton  Academy,  a  coeducational  school,  founded  in 
1811,  but  closed  from  1848  to  1889.  Its  shore  includes  part 
of  Old  Orchard  Beach. 

The  district  was  granted  by  the  Plymouth  Colony  to  Thomas  Lewis 
and  Captain  Richard  Bonython  in  1629,  who  took  possession  in  1631. 
Saco  and  Biddeford  were  one  community,  known  as  Saco  until  1718 
and  as  Biddeford  until  1762,  when  the  former  was  set  off  under  the 
name  of  Pepperellboro  in  honor  of  Sir  William  Pepperell. 

The  main  route,  recently  constructed  State  Road,  continues 
inland  to  Dunstan  Corner  (45.0)  and  Scarboro  (see  below). 

Detour  to  Old  Orchard.  9.0  m. 

From  Saco  the  road  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  leads  to 
Camp  Ellis,  at  the  river's  mouth.  Its  first  fork  to  the  left, 
with  trolley,  leads  to 

4.0  OLD  ORCHARD.  Pop  (twp)  961,  summer  pop  18,000.  York 
Co.  Settled  1631. 

Old  Orchard  has  perhaps  the  longest  and  finest  sea  beach 
on  the  New  England  coast,  free  from  rocks  and  hard  enough 
for  automobile  racing,  like  the  famous  Florida  sands.  It  is 
both  a  popular  and  populous  summer  resort.  For  nine  miles, 
from  Camp  Ellis  on  the  south  to  Pine  Point  on  the  north,  there 
are  summer  dwellings  of  every  description. 

Old  Orchard  itself  is  a  region  of  great  hotels  and  small 
cottages.  In  1907  a  great  fire  wiped  out  practically  all  the 
hotels  and  most  of  the  cottages,  but  they  have  been  rebuilt. 
Religious  conferences  and  camp-meetings  are  frequent. 

Thomas  Rogers,  one  of  the  early  settlers  who  lived  near  Goose  Fare 
Brook,  planted  an  orchard  from  which  the  Beach  takes  its  name.  His 
house  was  burned  by  the  Indians,  but  his  orchard  continued  to  blossom 
for  a  century. 

The  detour  bears  left  from  the  center  of  the  settlement 
to  the  main  route  at  Dunstan  Corner,  West  Scarboro  (9.0). 

47.5     SCARBORO.     Alt  34  ft.     Pop   (twp)   1945.     Cumberland  Co. 

The  town  date's  from  about  1630  and  in  1638  was  taken  under 
the  dominion  of  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony.  After  many 
fierce  attacks  in  the  Indian  Wars  the  town  eventually  became 
established,  and  by  1791  was  as  populous  as  Portland  (2235). 

Note.  The  road  to  the  right  leads  across  R.R.,  None  Such 
River,  and  the  marshes  to  Scarboro  Beach  and  PROUT'S  NECK 
(4.5),  a  rocky  headland  at  the  eastern  side  of  Saco  Bay,  stand- 
ing well  out  to  sea.  During  the  early  Indian  Wars  its  impreg- 
nable position  made  it  a  notable  stronghold.  Winslow  Homer 
and  his  brothers  were  early  summer  visitors  and  did  much 


682  SCARBORO— PORTLAND 

to  make  this  a  most  popular  resort  of  the  better  class.     Many 
of  Homer's  wellknown  coast  pictures  were  painted  here. 

From  Scarboro  the  main  route  follows  the  recently  finished 
State  Road,  with  trolley,  to 

5J.5  PORTLAND.  Pop  62,000  (loc.  est.  1916);  less  than  a  quarter 
foreign-born,  with  Italians,  Poles,  Armenians,  and  Russian 
Jews  predominating.  Cumberland  Co.  Settled  1633.  Port 
of  Entry  and  distributing  center.  Mfg.  foundry,  machine 
shop,  and  planing  mill  products,  cars  and  engines,  clay 
products,  canned  goods  and  other  food  specialties,  ship 
chandlery,  soap,  flavoring  extracts,  window  screens,  shoes, 
and  wood  pulp;  fish.  Value  of  Product  (1909),  $11,950,000; 
Payroll,  $3,277,000.  Steamers  for  New  York,  Boston,  the 
Provinces,  and  for  local  coast  resorts. 

'The  Forest  City,'  as  Portland,  the  metropolis  of  Maine, 
has  long  been  called,  is  situated  on  a  saddleback  hill  forming 
a  peninsula  about  three  miles  long  at  the  southwestern  end 
of  Casco  Bay,  with  a  landlocked  harbor  of  thirty  feet  minimum 
depth,  one  of  the  most  commodious  on  the  Atlantic  Coast. 
Steamship  lines  make  direct  connections  with  all  points  be- 
tween New  York  and  St.  John,  N.B.;  in  the  winter,  when 
the  St.  Lawrence  river  is  frozen,  it  is  the  port  for  Canadian 
transatlantic  commerce.  The  chief  exports  are  potatoes,  grain, 
lumber,  cooperage,  and  apples;  the  imports,  coal,  sulphur, 
pulp-wood,  salt,  and  china  clay.  Portland  has  between  three 
and  four  hundred  manufacturing  establishments,  some  of  them 
claiming  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world.  It  also  carries  on  a 
large  hotel  trade  in  the  summer.  The  wholesale  and  manu- 
facturing section  extends  along  the  waterfront,  and  the  retail 
and  financial  section  lies  on  Congress  St.,  between  Bramhall 
Hill  on  the  west  and  Munjoy  Hill  on  the  east,  which  are  resi- 
dential districts.  On  the  mainland  are  several  square  miles  of 
suburbs.  Sixty  years  ago  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  wrote  of 
Portland  in  the  opening  pages  of  "Elsie  Venner,"  as  follows: 

"As  for  the  last  of  the  three  ports,  or  Portland,  it  is  getting  too 
prosperous  to  be  as  attractive  as  its  less  northerly  neighbors.  Meant 
for  a  fine  old  town,  to  ripen  like  a  Cheshire  cheese  within  its  walls  of 
ancient  rind,  burrowed  by  crooked  alleys  and  mottled  with  venerable 
mould,  it  seems  likely  to  sacrifice  its  mellow  nature  to  a  vulgar  material 
prosperity." 

Prosperity  has  not  brought  any  touch  of  vulgarity  nor  has 
it  obliterated  the  mellow  dignity  of  the  past.  The  mansions 
of  the  eighteenth  century  and  the  public  buildings  of  the 
twentieth  possess  considerable  architectural  excellence,  while 
the  multitude  of  well-kept  shade  trees  maintain  a  fitting  har- 
mony with  the  natural  loveliness  of  the  city's  environment. 

The  million-dollar  City  Hall,  a  Colonial  building  of  white 
Maine  granite,  with  a  tower  reminiscent  of  that  on  New  York's 


R.  36  §  3.     PORTSMOUTH   TO   PORTLAND  683 

old  City  Hall,  stands  on  Congress  St.,  at  the  head  of  Exchange. 
The  State  reception-hall,  in  Colonial  style,  is  its  handsomest 
chamber.  In  the  rear  of  the  main  building  is  the  municipal 
auditorium,  seating  3000  and  containing  a  $60,000  organ,  the 
fourth  largest  in  the  world.  It  was  presented  in  memory  of 
Hermann  Kotzschmar,  a  Portland  composer  and  musician,  by 
Cyrus  H.  K.  Curtis,  the  publisher  of  the  "Ladies'  Home 
Journal"  and  the  "Saturday  Evening  Post,"  who  was  born 
and  educated  in  this  city.  The  city  music  commission  ap- 
points a  municipal  organist  and  arranges  a  series  of  concerts 
during  the  winter;  in  July  and  August  it  provides  daily  after- 
noon concerts  for  admission  fee  of  25  cents.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  Congress  St.,  a  block  to  the  east,  is  Lincoln  Park,  about 
to  be  extended  to  the  new  civic  center.  Across  from  this  are 
the  Federal  and  County  Court  Houses,  of  granite,  and  the 
Post  Office,  of  white  Vermont  marble,  with  a  Corinthian 
portico,  three  very  handsome  buildings  of  comparatively 
recent  date.  On  the  eastern  side  of  the  park  is  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral  of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  with  a 
spire  236  feet  high,  a  landmark  for  miles  around. 

Continuing  east  on  Congress  St.,  beyond  Lincoln  Park,  on 
the  southern  slope  of  Munjoy  Hill,  is  the  Eastern  Cemetery, 
part  of  which  has  been  used  from  1637. 

Here  are  buried  many  of  the  pioneers,  victims  of  French  and  Indian 
massacres  over  two  centuries  ago,  and  eleven  men  who  were  killed 
in  1639  in  a  battle  which  terminated  favorably  for  the  colonists.  Com- 
modore Edward  Preble,  commander  of  the  American  fleet  in  the 
war  with  Tripoli,  in  1804,  and  called  "The  Father  of  the  American 
Navy,"  is  buried  here.  Lieutenant  William  Burrows  of  the  American 
brig  "Enterprise"  lies  beside  his  enemy  Captain  Blythe  of  the  British 
brig  "Boxer."  The  English  ship  had  been  fitted  out  during  the  War 
of  1812  purposely  to  meet  the  American,  and  began  the  action  with 
her  colors  nailed  to  the  mast,  surrendering  only  when  she  was  a  com- 
plete wreck.  Both  commanders  were  killed  and  were  buried  the  next 
day  with  all  the  honors  of  war.  The  engagement  occurred  off  Seguin 
Island,  Sept.  5,  1813.  Not  far  from  them  lies  Lieutenant  Waters, 
also  killed  in  that  encounter.  Regarding  this,  Longfellow  says: 
"I  remember  the  sea-fight  far  away, 

How  it  thundered  o'er  the  tide! 
And  the  dead  captains  as  they  lay 
In  their  graves,  o'erlooking  the  tranquil  bay, 
Where  they  in  battle  died." 

Here  also  are  the  graves  of  Rear-admiral  Alden,  who  saw  service  at 
Vera  Cruz,  New  Orleans,  and  Mobile,  and  of  the  gallant  Lieutenant 
Henry  Wadsworth,  uncle  of  the  poet.  He  was  killed  by  the  explosion 
of  a  free  ship  under  the  walls  of  Tripoli. 

On  Munjoy  Hill  (160  ft)  is  the  residential  quarter.  Near  the 
summit  is  the  Observatory,  erected  in  1807  for  reporting  the 
arrival  of  vessels,  and  used  for  that  purpose  ever  since.  A 
powerful  telescope  is  kept  in  the  lantern  at  the  top  of  the  old 
red  tower;  the  view  is  the  best  in  Portland.  On  the  bluffs 


684  PORTLAND 

above  the  harbor  is  the  Eastern  Promenade,  a  park  reservation 
with  a  monument  to  Cleeve  and  Tucker,  the  first  settlers.  At 
the  southern  end  of  the  Promenade  is  Fort  Allen  Park,  where 
portions  of  the  earthworks  thrown  up  in  1812  are  preserved. 
The  view  of  the  harbor  and  of  Casco  Bay  from  this  spot  is 
justly  praised.  At  the  northwestern  end  of  the  hill,  overlook- 
ing the  city  and  the  inland  shore,  is  Fort  Sumner  Park,  also 
named  from  the  old  defenses  on  which  it  is  laid  out. 

The  Chamber  of  Commerce  has  a  fine  building  at  34  Ex- 
change St.,  where  information  regarding  the  city  and  State 
may  always  be  obtained.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  bodies  of  the 
sort  in  the  country,  being  a  reorganization  of  the  Board  of 
Trade  which  was  founded  in  1853.  In  the  Exposition  Building 
at  the  corner  of  Park  Ave.  and  Weymouth  St.,  a  handsome 
and  huge  structure  of  brick,  steel,  and  concrete,  the  Maine 
State  Exposition  is  held  annually  under  its  auspices.  Here 
also  the  Maine  Music  Festival  takes  place  annually  in  October. 

West  of  the  City  Hall,  on  Congress  St.,  is  the  First  Parish 
Church  (Unitarian),  erected  in  1825,  the  oldest  church  edifice 
in  the  city.  Monument  Square,  just  beyond,  is  the  point  of 
departure  for  several  street  car  lines.  In  its  center  is  the 
Soldiers  and  Sailors'  Monument,  by  Franklin  Simmons.  The 
Preble  House  contains  portions  of  the  residence  of  Commodore 
Preble.  A  few  doors  west  of  the  Square,  in  the  middle  of  the 
retail  district,  is  the  elm-shaded  Wadsworth-Longfellow  house, 
built  in  1785  by  General  Peleg  Wadsworth,  the  grandfather  of 
the  poet;  at  that  time  it  was  the  only  brick  building  in  the 
town.  Longfellow's  parents  took  possession  of  the  Congress 
St.  house  when  the  future  poet  was  but  a  few  months  old,  and 
made  it  their  home  for  a  good  part  of  his  boyhood  days.  The 
property  was  bequeathed  in  1900  to  the  Maine  Historical 
Society  by  his  sister,  who  had  carefully  preserved  it  for  many 
years  as  it  was  during  her  brother's  boyhood.  The  collections 
include  manuscripts,  pictures,  furniture,  and  other  articles  of 
interest  not  only  through  their  connections  with  Longfellow, 
but  also  for  the  light  they  throw  upon  the  daily  life  of  a  century 
ago;  the  great  fireplace  in  the  kitchen  remains  intact,  with  its 
crane,  kettle,  Dutch  oven,  waffle-irons,  and  many  other  uten- 
sils no  longer  familiar.  The  house  is  open  to  visitors  during 
the  summer  months  (25  cents).  Adjoining  it  is  the  fireproof 
building  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society.  Not  far  away  is 
the  Public  Library,  with  65,000  volumes,  and  the  site  of  the 
Freemason's  Arms,  the  tavern  kept  by  Thomas  Motley, 
grandfather  of  the  historian,  John  Lothrop  Motley.  High 
Street,  which  crosses  at  Congress  Square,  still  possesses  many 
of  the  oldtime  mansions. 


R.  36  §  3.     PORTSMOUTH   TO   PORTLAND  685 

Two  blocks  beyond,  at  the  intersection  of  State  St.,  is  Long- 
fellow Square,  with  a  bronze  statue  of  Longfellow,  seated  in 
a  chair  with  a  pile  of  books  placed  below  him  as  an  after- 
thought; this  is  also  by  Franklin  Simmons.  State  Street  was 
laid  out  more  than  a  century  ago  with  esplanades  on  either 
side,  and  double  rows  of  elms  which  now  completely  arch  the 
roadway.  For  more  than  one  hundred  years  much  of  Port- 
land's social  life  has  centered  here  in  the  stately  residences  of 
wealthy  merchants  whose  fortunes  were  made  when  vessels 
hailing  from  Portland  sailed  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  A  block 
beyond  Longfellow  Square,  on  the  corner  of  Congress  and  Dow 
Sts.,  is  the  home  of  General  Neal  Dow,  soldier,  statesman,  and 
father  of  prohibition.  The  street  now  rounds  the  shoulder 
of  Bramhall's  Hill  (175  ft),  geologically  and  residentiary  the 
counterpart  of  Munjoy  Hill,  though  distinctly  more  fashion- 
able. In  the  Williston  Congregational  Church,  on  Thomas 
and  Carroll  Sts.,  the  Rev.  Francis  E.  Clark  founded  in  1881 
the  Young  People's  Society  of  Christian  Endeavor,  from 
which  the  present  world-wide  organization  has  developed. 
The  Western  Promenade  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  is  a  parkway 
similar  to  the  Eastern  Promenade.  The  prospect  stretches 
for  ninety  miles  over  the  rolling  country  to  the  Presidential 
Range  and  Mt.  Washington,  with  glimpses  of  the  harbor  and 
the  bay  on  either  side.  A  statue  of  Thomas  Brackett  Reed 
stands  here,  and  not  far  away  are  the  Maine  General  Hospital 
and  the  Maine  Medical  School,  which  occupy  a  prominent 
group  of  buildings. 

On  State  St.  is  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Cathedral  Church 
of  St.  Luke.  On  the  corner  of  Spring  and  High  Sts.  is  the 
Portland  Society  of  Art,  which  occupies  a  Colonial  mansion 
with  furnishings  carefully  preserved;  in  the  museum  adjoin- 
ing are  several  noteworthy  works  of  art,  and  an  exhibition  of 
contemporary  American  painting  is  held  annually  in  July  and 
August.  Here  stands  Paul  Akers'  statue  of  the  Pearl  Diver, 
known  to  readers  of  Hawthorne's  "Marble  Faun." 

The  waterfront,  along  which  runs  Commercial  St.,  provides 
ample  room  for  ocean  steamships,  the  coasting  trade,  and  the 
fishing  smacks.  The  house  of  the  Portland  Yacht  Club,  at  the 
end  of  Merchants'  Wharf,  faces  the  yacht  anchorage  in  the 
upper  harbor.  The  Custom  House  occupies  a  central  location 
here,  and  the  Grand  Trunk  Station  with  its  huge  tall  clock- 
tower  and  huge  grain  elevators  are  at  the  eastern  end. 

The  birthplace  of  Longfellow,  long  a  tenement  house  on 
the  corner  of  Fore  and  Hancock  Sts.,  opposite  the  Grand 
Trunk  Station,  has  been  restored  by  the  International  Long- 
fellow Society,  who  are  endeavoring  to  complete  the  funds 


686  PORTLAND 

necessary  to  pay  off  the  mortgage  and  permanently  preserve 
it.  Nearby  on  Hancock  St.  is  the  birthplace  of  Thomas 
Brackett  Reed,  the  witty  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Represen- 
tatives, who  established  the  Rules  Committee  and  the  Com- 
mittee System  long  in  use  in  Congress.  He  later  lived  at 
No.  31  Deering  St.  Portland  is  likewise  the  birthplace  of 
N.  P.  Willis,  a  poet  of  the  heyday  of  Boston's  literary  fame, 
now  almost  forgotten.  Among  present  residents  are  Holman 
F.  Day,  whose  dialect  verse  and  stories  of  Maine  life  are  widely 
appreciated;  Judge  Clarence  Hale,  of  the  prominent  Maine 
family  that  has  long  had  a  hand  in  Maine's  destinies;  and 
Thomas  B.  Mosher,  the  publisher. 

The  Westbrook  Seminary,  in  the  Deering  section,  to  the 
west,  was  founded  in  1831,  and  is  the  oldest  educational  insti- 
tution of  Universalist  origin  in  the  country.  At  Stroudwater, 
an  adjacent  suburb,  is  the  home  of  the  late  Mrs.  L.  M.  N. 
Stevens,  successor  to  Frances  E.  Willard  as  head  of  the  world's 
W.  C.  T.  U.  A  movement  to  erect  a  monument  to  her  memory 
is  now  in  progress. 

Deerings  Oaks  Park,  fronting  on  Park  Ave.,  consists  of 
fifty  acres  with  a  beautiful  grove  of  oak  trees  and  an  artificial 
pond.  It  was  a  favorite  place  with  Longfellow,  who  refers 
to  it  in  his  poem  "My  Lost  Youth." 

Cape  Cottage  Park,  on  Cape  Elizabeth,  beyond  South 
Portland,  is  nine  miles  distant  by  the  shore  road.  On  the 
way  thither,  the  road  passes  through  the  region  of  summer 
houses,  hotels,  and  boarding  houses,  beyond  Meeting  House 
Hill.  Mountain  View  Park,  a  cottage  settlement,  is  attrac- 
tively situated  on  the  Cape.  Cape  Cottage  has  a  Casino,  with 
a  restaurant  and  a  theater  where  a  stock  company  gives  daily 
performances  of  popular  plays  in  the  summer.  The  bathing 
beach  is  in  Maiden  Cove,  and  rocky  ledges  feel  the  full  sweep 
of  the  Atlantic.  It  is  conducted  by  a  street  car  company  and 
so  is  Riverton  Park,  a  pastoral  nook  six  miles  inland,  on  Forest 
Ave.  Here  on  the  high  land  overlooking  the  Presumpscot 
river  is  a  Casino  with  a  restaurant.  A  rustic  summer  play- 
house occupies  a  natural  amphitheater,  and  the  river  is  well 
adapted  for  canoeing. 

CASCO  BAY  is  one  of  the  many  drowned  valleys  which  pene- 
trate the  Maine  coast  like  Norwegian  fjords.  It  is  a  popular 
yachting  center,  as  the  channels  among  the  156  islands  are 
generally  deep  enough  to  carry  large  craft,  and  Portland  Har- 
bor channel  has  a  depth  ranging  from  100  feet  off  Portland 
Head  to  a  minimum  of  30  feet  at  the  wharves,  which  are  but 
three  miles  distant  from  the  open  sea.  Portland  is  well  fortified 
and  its  approaches  are  provided  with  powerful  lighthouses. 


R.  36  §  3.  PORTSMOUTH  TO  PORTLAND  687 

At  Portland  Head  on  the  Cape  Elizabeth  shore  is  Fort  Williams, 
constructed  in  recent  years,  and  on  the  seaward  side  of  Cush- 
ing's  Island  across  the  channel  is  Fort  Levett,  another  modern 
stronghold,  named  for  Christopher  Levett,  who  explored  the 
Bay  in  1623  and  built  the  first  fortified  enclosure  there.  A  third 
fortification  is  Fort  McKinley,  so  placed  on  Great  Diamond 
Island  as  to  command  the  other  approaches.  Fort  Preble, 
on  the  Cape  Shore,  just  beyond  the  inner  harbor,  has  been  con- 
tinuously maintained  for  a  century,  and  is  now  a  mortar 
battery.  Fort  Scammel  on  House  Island  is  a  dismantled 
granite  fortress  built  about  1808.  Fort  Gorges  on  Diamond 
Island  ledge  is  another  obsolete  stone  castle.  Garrisons,  of 
2500  men  in  all,  are  maintained  at  Fort  McKinley  and  Fort 
Williams.  Portland  Head  Light  is  one  of  the  oldest  and 
most  historic  on  the  Atlantic  Coast.  It  was  constructed  in 
1791,  during  Washington's  administration.  The  house  con- 
tains many  relics  of  the  past  125  years  and  its  present  lenses 
were  put  in  position  seventy-two  years  ago.  It  has  been 
in  charge  of  the  Strouts,  father  and  son,  for  the  past  fifty 
years. 

The  islands  of  Casco  Bay  vary  from  bare  rocky  ledges  to 
islands  many  square  miles  in  area  and  heavily  wooded  with 
balsam  and  other  evergreens.  Nearly  all  of  these  are  summer 
playgrounds.  Cushings  Island,  at  the  harbor  entrance,  has 
a  bold  cliff  (150  ft),  called  the  White  Head  because  of  a  rather 
human  profile  made  by  the  rocks.  Peaks  Island,  three  miles 
from  the  city  on  the  open  sea,  is  an  amusement  center,  with 
a  summer  theater  maintained  by  a  steamboat  company.  Little 
and  Great  Diamond  Islands,  separated  from  Peaks  Island  by 
a  narrow  stretch  of  water  called  "The  Roads,"  are  favorite 
summer  settlements  for  many  Portland  people.  Long  Island 
and  Cliff  Island  have  become  popular  summer  colonies  in 
recent  years.  Great  Chebeague  is  the  largest  island  and  has 
long  been  popular  with  visitors.  Between  it  and  the  ocean  is 
an  archipelago  of  islets  among  which  is  Eagle  Island,  the  home 
of  Rear-admiral  Robert  E.  Peary  who  discovered  the  North 
Pole;  he  owns  five  more  islands  on  which  he  keeps  his  dogs. 
The  outermost  islands  of  any  importance  are  Baileys  Island, 
one  of  the  more  fashionable  localities,  and  Orrs  Island,  long 
familiar  through  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe's  tale  "The  Pearl  of 
Orr's  Island."  Pearl  House,  where  Mrs.  Stowe  wrote  the 
novel,  is  still  to  be  seen.  Longfellow  was  likewise  fond  of  this 
part  of  the  Bay,  and  Elijah  Kellogg  (1813-1901),  for  many 
years  the  most  popular  American  writer  of  boys'  books, 
preached  at  Harpswell,  the  promontory  behind  Orrs  Island. 
The  whispering  pines  from  which  Kellogg  took  the  general 


688  PORTLAND 

titles  for  his  stories  are  at  Brunswick,  fifteen  miles  away. 
When  he  went  to  Chicago  to  preach  he  was  unable  to  stand 
the  separation  from  his  '  down  east '  home  and  soon  came  back 
to  Harpswell,  where  he  continued  to  preach  and  wrote  his 
stories  as  well.  At  Harpswell  Harbor  is  the  Tufts  College 
Summer  Laboratory,  where  special  researches  are  conducted  in 
experimental  zoology  with  material  secured  from  the  local 
waters.  At  the  northwest  corner  of  Casco  Bay  is  the  beautiful 
little  harbor  of  South  Freeport,  once  a  famous  shipbuilding 
village.  Between  South  Freeport  and  Portland  are  the  Fore- 
sides  of  Yarmouth,  Cumberland,  and  Falmouth. 

George  Cleeve  and  Richard  Tucker  settled  on  the  peninsula  in  1633 
after  their  ejection  from  the  land  at  the  mouth  of  the  Spurwink  river. 
The  present  name  of  Portland  was  adopted  in  1786;  the  locality  had 
been  known  in  Indian  days  as  Machigonne  and  Stogemoc,  and  later 
as  Casco  Neck,  changed  in  1658  to  Falmouth.  The  motto  on  the 
City  Seal,  "Resurgam,"  is  appropriate,  since  the  city  has  risen  from 
its  ashes  four  times.  It  was  first  destroyed  by  the  Indians  in  1676, 
when  the  Rev.  George  Burroughs  escaped  only  to  be  'pressed'  to 
death  as  an  unconfessed  witch  at  Salem,  Aug.  19,  1692.  Portland 
was  again  sacked,  by  the  French  and  Indians,  in  1690,  after  fierce  bat- 
tles at  Deerings  Oaks  Park  and  at  Fort  Loyal,  which  stood  near  the 
site  of  the  Grank  Trunk  Station.  The  town  was  not  rebuilt  until 
1716.  It  then  had  fifteen  male  inhabitants,  and  was  little  more  than 
a  village  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution.  In  1731  Colonel  West- 
brook  built  the  first  paper  mill  in  Maine  just  above  the  dam  and  bridge 
at  Stroudwater;  at  the  same  time  he  built  another  paper  mill  on  the 
Presumpscot  river  where  the  Cumberland  Paper  Mills  are  situated 
today.  When  Great  Britain  closed  the  port  of  Boston  in  1774,  the 
patriots  rang  a  muffled  peal  from  the  First  Parish  Church.  For  this 
and  other  rebellious  acts  the  town  was  bombarded  and  burnt  by  the 
British,  Oct.  18,  1775.  However,  it  was  soon  restored,  and  prospered 
on  the  foreign  trade  which  flourished  here  as  at  Newburyport  ami 
Portsmouth.  Many  of  the  finer  residences  of  the  city  date  from  this 
period,  when  luxurious  living  was  first  introduced.  At  the  time  of 
the  Revolution  the  fashionable  tavern  of  the  town  was  kept  by  Dame 
Alice  Greele,  and  during  the  entire  war  it  was  the  meeting  place  of 
the  Committee  of  Public  Safety.  The  citizens  at  a  meeting  held  here 
voted  to  hold  their  ground  against  the  bombardment  rather  than  give 
up  the  guns  demanded  by  Mowatt.  After  making  this  praiseworthy 
resolution  they  hastily  packed  up  all  their  worldly  goods  and  fled  inland 
with  their  families,  but  Dame  Alice  refused  to  desert.  Though  most 
of  the  houses  in  her  vicinity  were  destroyed  by  bursting  bombs  and 
heated  cannon-balls  she  stood  her  ground  through  the  day  and  with 
pails  of  water  extinguished  the  fires  kindled  by  hot  cannon-balls. 

This  building  stood  at  the  corner  of  Congress  and  Hampshire  Sts. 
until  1846;  it  was  then  removed  to  Washington  St.,  where  it  still  stands. 
During  the  War  of  1812  Portland  was  in  perpetual  alarm;  fortifica- 
tions were  hastily  thrown  up  on  Munjoy  Hill  as  well  as  on  the  islands 
in  the  harbor,  and  an  anxious  watch  was  kept  from  the  old  Observa- 
tory. In  1836  Portland  received  its  first  city  charter.  In  1846  Port- 
land, Ore.,  was  founded  by  two  New  England  real  estate  men  who 
tossed  up  a  coin  to  decide  which  should  have  the  privilege  of  naming 
their  venture;  it  is  quite  unnecessary  to  say  who  won.  July  4,  1866, 
a  fire  devastated  200  acres  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  destroying  1500 
buildings,  including  all  the  newspaper  offices  and  nearly  every  bank, 


R.  36  §  3.  PORTSMOUTH  TO  PORTLAND  689 

church,  and  public  edifice,  with  a  loss  of   about  $10,000,000.     Fortu- 
nately the  handsomest  portions  of  the  city  were  uninjured. 

Commercially  Portland  has  become  a  storehouse  from  which  a  great 
part  of  New  England  and  the  maritime  provinces  is  supplied.  This 
is  due  not  only  to  the  excellent  harbor  facilities,  but  also  to  the  fact 
that  the  city  is  the  terminus  for  three  railroad  systems,  the  Boston 
and  Maine,  the  Maine  Central,  and  the  Grand  Trunk.  The  two  former 
use  the  Union  Station  at  the  western  end  of  the  peninsula,  and  the 
latter  the  Grand  Trunk  Station  at  the  eastern  end.  Commerce  has 
increased  remarkably  within  the  past  ten  years:  in  1914-15  the  Grand 
Trunk  grain  elevators  handled  nearly  twenty  million  bushels  of 
grain  as  compared  with  nine  millions  the  previous  years;  transatlantic 
passenger  traffic  increased  from  12,000  in  191 1  to  more  than  double 
the  number  in  1913;  bank  clearings  increased  from  57  millions  to  107 
millions  between  1900  and  the  end  of  1913.  Unquestionably  this 
is  in  part  the  outcome  of  Portland's  position  as  the  leading  industrial 
city  in  Maine  and  the  home  of  many  specialized  manufactures:  the 
E.  T.  Burrowes  Company,  window  screens,  the  Thomas  Laughlin 
Company,  ship  chandlery  and  marine  hardware,  A.  S.  Hinds,  com- 
plexion cream  and  soap,  are  all  of  them  the  largest  plants  of  their 
kind  in  the  world;  Winslow  &  Co.,  sewer  pipe,  and  Burnham  & 
Morrill,  pure  food  canned  products,  operate  the  largest  independent 
factories  of  their  kind  in  the  United  States.  In  addition  there  are 
more  than  350  separate  plants  whose  output  ranges  from  foundry 
products  and  machinery,  builders'  materials,  and  cement  and  clay 
articles,  to  billiard  balls,  art  glass,  paper  and  pulp,  and  the  various 
products  of  the  fisheries.  The  publishing  house  of  Thomas  B.  Mosher 
has  helped  to  make  Portland  known  through  choice  editions  of  belles 
lettres  and  reprints. 


R.  37.     vSALEM  to  DANVERS  and  LAWRENCE.       21.0m. 

This  direct  route  between  Salem  and  Lawrence  passes 
through  some  of  the  most  beautiful  country  of  eastern  Mas- 
sachusetts and  readily  combines  with  other  routes  to  make 
an  attractive  day  trip  from  Boston.  Danvers  is  the  place 
where  the  so-called  Salem  witchcraft  started  and  contains 
many  interesting  historic  old  houses. 

The  route  is  a  State  Highway  throughout,  marked  by  yellow 
bands  on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts.  From  Salem  pro- 
ceeding west  on  Essex  St.,  turn  right,  into  North  St.,  and  fol- 
low the  trolley  past  the  cemetery  through  North  Salem. 

The  lane  on  the  right  beyond  the  Salem  Golf  Club  leads  to 
a  red  house,  the  home  of  George  Jacobs,  hanged  as  a  witch 
in  1692.  Beyond  is  Folly  Hill,  a  favorite  resort  of  Hawthorne's 
in  his  boyhood,  on  which  is  the  Salem  reservoir.  Crossing 
Waters  River,  on  the  left  is  Orchard  Farm,  granted  to  Gov- 
ernor Endicott  in  1632,  and  the  Reed-Porter  house,  built  in 
1790  by  Nathan  Reed,  the  inventor,  who  experimented  with 
steam  on  this  river  eighteen  years  before  Fulton;  he  also 
invented  steam  pumps  and  threshing  machines.  Endicott 
Street,  also  on  the  left,  leads  to  the  Zerubbabel  Endicott 
house  (1684)  and  the  Endicott  pear  tree  (1632),  which  still 
bears  fruit.  Descending  Fox  Hill  and  crossing  Crane  River 
the  route  passes  the  Hutchinson  monument  and  enters  Dan- 
versport  (31.0),  a  former  port  of  entry  and  shipbuilding  center. 
Turning  into  High  St.,  opposite  the  Baptist  Church  and  facing 
the  square  is  the  Samuel  Fowler  house,  a  square  brick  structure 
built  in  1809  and  since  1912  the  property  of  the  Society  for 
the  Preservation  of  New  England  Antiquities.  It  is  a  fine  old 
house  in  perfect  preservation  and  occupied  by  the  Misses  Fowler, 
who  are  very  liberal  in  the  privileges  they  grant  to  callers  who 
wish  to  inspect  the  house. 

4.0  DANVERS.  Alt  42  ft.  Pop  (twp)  9407  (1910),  11,177  (1915). 
Essex  Co.  Settled  1632.  Mfg.  boots  and  shoes,  leather,  in- 
candescent lamps. 

Danvers  is  an  interesting  old  town  filled  with  memories  of 
witchcraft  days  and  the  center  of  an  important  leather  industry. 
The  town  is  rich  in  old  houses.  In  the  square  is  the  Berry 
Tavern  on  whose  site  there  has  been  a  public  house  for  the  last 
175  years;  a  memorial  boulder  close  by  commemorates  the 
encampment  of  Benedict  Arnold  and  his  forces  on  their  march 
to  Quebec  in  1775.  The  Page  house  (1754),  formerly  on  Elm 
St.,  facing  the  square,  has  recently  been  purchased  by  the 
Danvers  Historical  Society  and  moved  a  short  distance  away 
to  a  new  location  on  Page  St.,  where  it  is  open  to  the  public; 

(690; 


R.  37-     SALEM    TO   DANVERS   AND   LAWRENCE 


691 


lea  is  served  on  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays.  It  is  a  fine  old 
Colonial  structure,  and  in  it  General  Page  had  a  private  office 
while  he  lived  at  The  Lindens.  This  is  the  house  made  famous 
by  Lucy  Larcom's  poem  "The  Gambrel  Roof,"  upon  which 
roof  Colonel  Page's  wife  gave  at  least  one  rebellious  tea-party, 
because  her  husband  had  forbidden  any  one  within  his  house 
to  partake  of  the  "forbidden  cup." 

From  Elm  St.,  Sylvan  Street  leads  to  the  Peabody  Institute 
and  Library,  the  gift  of  George  Peabody  of  London,  the  banker 
and  philanthropist  (p  514),  also  to  The  Lindens  (1754),  "one 
of  the  best  specimens  of  later  Colonial  architecture  in  exist- 
ence." The  country  residence  of  'King'  Hooper,  a  rich  mer- 
chant of  Marblehead,  it  was  the  headquarters  of  General  Gage 
in  1774,  when  the  Port  of  Boston  was  closed  and  Salem  was 
the  capital.  Further  on  off  Holten  St.,  on  Pine  St.,  near  the 
Tapleyville  Station  is  the 
Rebecca  Nurse  house,  from 
which  the  owner  was  taken 
and  hanged  as  a  witch,  now 
the  property  of  the  Nurse 
Association,  and  open  to  the 
public.  Her  remains  are 
buried  in  a  small  cemetery 
in  the  rear.  At  Holten  and 
Center  Sts.  is  the  home  of 
Dr.  Holten,  jurist,  physician, 
and  acting  president  of  the 
Continental  Congress. 

On  Center  St.  is  the  First 
Church  and  parsonage  of  Old 
Salem  Village  Parish,  where  the  witchcraft  delusion  of  1692 
broke  out.  Beyond  is  the  Wadsworth  house  (1784),  the  home 
of  one  of  its  pastors.  Next  is  the  Training  Field;  a  boulder 
at  one  end  is  in  memory  of  Nathaniel  Ingersoll,  who  gave 
the  field  to  the  town  forever.  At  the  other  end  is  the  Upton 
Tavern,  two  centuries  old,  for  many  years  a  famous  hostelry. 
The  beautiful  estate  of  William  Crowninshield  Endicjtt, 
former  Secretary  of  War,  is  on  the  right  of  Ingersoll  St. 

John  Endicott  took  possession  of  a  part  of  this  land  in  1632  and 
built  his  house  here,  which  estate  he  called  "Orchard  Farm,"  where 
he  planted  the  pear  tree.  Danvers  continued  to  be  the  Village  Parish 
of  Salem  and  was  known  as  Salem  Village  (p  40)  until  1752  when  it  was 
incorporated  as  a  separate  district,  and  in  1757  as  a  town. 

It  was  at  Danvers  Center,  then  a  part  of  Salem,  in  a  little  group  of 
farmhouses  surrounding  the  church  in  which  Rev.  Samuel  Parris  was 
minister,  that  witchcraft  first  broke  out  in  this  region.  In  his  family 
were  two  West  Indian  slaves,  John  and  Tituba,  and  his  two  children, 
Elizabeth,  nine,  and  his  niece,  Abigail  Williams,  eleven.  In  the  winter 


THE  PAGE  HOUSE,  DANVERS 


692  DANVERS— LAWRENCE 

of  i6gi  these  children  startled  the  neighborhood  by  unaccountable 
performances,  creeping  under  tables,  assuming  strange  facial  attitudes, 
uttering  inarticulate  cries,  and  at  times  they  fell  into  convulsions. 
The  local  doctor  explained  it  as  due  to  witchcraft.  The  Biblical  in- 
junction "Thou  shalt  not  suffer  a  witch  to  live"  (Exodus  22:  18) 
had  been  literally  carried  out  long  before  this  in  Charlestown,  Dor- 
chester, Cambridge,  and  in  most  of  the  Connecticut  river  towns. 
The  slave,  Tituba,  was  brought  to  trial  and  under  threat  admitted  her 
guilt — the  devil  appeared  to  her  as  a  man  in  black  accompanied  by 
a  yellow  bird — and  that  she  had  tortured  the  girls.  She  named  as  ac- 
complices two  women,  Goody  Osborn,  a  bedridden  invalid,  and  Sarah 
Good,  a  forlorn  vagrant.  All  were  thrown  into  jail  and  Tituba  was 
sold  to  pay  the  expenses  of  the  trial.  The  next  witches  to  be  exe- 
cuted were  Giles  Corey,  eighty  years  of  age,  and  his  wife,  Martha, 
sixty.  Both  were  found  guilty  and  she  was  executed.  The  aged 
man,  because  he  refused  to  confess,  was  laid  on  his  back,  a  board 
placed  on  his  body  with  a  great  weight  upon  it,  and  he  was  fed  on  alter- 
nate days  a  morsel  of  bread  and  a  draught  of  water  until  death  put  an 
end  to  his  sufferings.  George  Burroughs,  the  pastor  of  the  Danvers 
church,  1680,  who  had  escaped  death  at  the  hands  of  the  Indians  at 
Wells  (p  677)  and  at  Portland  (p  688),  was  among  those  who  perished 
on  Gallows  Hill. 

Mr.  Parris  made  the  following  statement  at  the  Sunday  morning 
service  preceding  the  communion,  March  27,  1692.  "It  is  altogether 
undenyable  that  our  great  and  blessed  God  hath  suffered  many  persons, 
in  several  Families  of  this  little  village,  to  be  grievously  vexed  and 
tortured  in  body,  and  to  be  deeply  tempted,  to  the  endangering  of  the 
destruction  of  their  souls,  and  all  these  amazing  facts  (well  known  to 
many  of  us)  to  be  done  by  Witchcraft  and  Diabolical  Operations.  It 
is  also  well  known  that  when  these  calamities  first  began,  which  was 
in  my  own  family,  the  affliction  was  several  weeks  before  such  hellish 
operations  as  Witchcraft  was  suspected.  Nay  it  never  brake  forth  to 
any  considerable  light  until  diabolical  means  was  used  by  the  making 
of  a  cake  by  my  Indian  man,  who  had  his  directions  from  this  our  sister 
Mary  Sibley;  since  which  apparitions  have  been  plenty,  and  exceeding 
much  mischief  hath  followed.  But  by  this  means  it  seems  the  Devil 
hath  been  raized  amongst  us,  and  his  rage  is  vehement  and  terrible; 
and  when  he  shall  be  silenced  the  Lord  only  knows." 

From  Danvers  Square  the  route  follows  Maple  St.  It  passes 
Summer  St.,  on  the  right,  which  leads  to  Oak  Knoll,  Whittier's 
home  in  his  latter  days,  now  occupied  by  his  two  cousins. 
Near  it  is  St.  John's  Preparatory  College,  a  Roman  Catholic 
School  for  boys. 

The  Prince-Osborn  house  at  273  Maple  St.  (1660)  was  the 
home  of  a  witchcraft  victim.  Beyond,  on  the  left,  is  the  gam- 
brel-roofed  house  of  Colonel  Jesse  Putnam,  and  at  the  corner 
of  Newbury  and  Maple  Sts.  is  the  birthplace  of  General  Israel 
Putnam.  (Visitors  welcome.) 

Just  after  crossing  Route  35  (6.0;  p  625),  the  Newburyport 
Turnpike,  there  rises  on  the  left  Hathorne  Hill  (240  ft),  crowned 
by  the  Danvers  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  a  familiar 
object  for.  miles  around.  The  ten  large  buildings  of  Elizabethan 
architecture  were  built  at  a  cost  of  $1,620,000.  The  hill  is 
named  for  its  first  owner,  William  Hathorne,  an  early  magis- 


R.  37.      SALEM    TO    DANVERS,  AND    LAWRENCE  693 

trate  of  Salem  and  an  ancestor  of  the  author.     Just  beyond 
the  hospital  is  the  Essex  County  Agricultural  School. 

Across  the  valley,  on  the  hill  opposite,  is  the  famous  Fern- 
croft  Inn,  a  favorite  and  somewhat  lively  house  of  good  cheer, 
much  frequented  by  motor  parties  from  Boston.  It  was  for- 
merly the  old  Nichols  farm,  one  of  the  oldest  in  town,  but  the 
present  buildings  are  new,  the  old  house  having  been  burned 
several  years  ago.  The  present  name  was  given  by  Whittier. 

9.0     MIDDLETON.  Alt  73  ft.   Pop  1308  (1915).   Essex  Co.   Inc.  1728. 

On  the  Library  site  was  born  in  1833  John  James  Ingalls, 

for  eighteen  years  U.S.  Senator  from  Kansas.     He  was  an 

orator  of  unusual  power  and  insurgent  even  before  the  time  of 

mugwumps,  but  will  be  best  remembered  for  his  poem  "  Fate  ": 

"Master  of  human  destinies  am  I; 

Fame,  love,  and  fortune  on  my  footsteps  wait; 
Cities  and  fields  I  walk;  I  penetrate 
Deserts  and  seas  remote,  and  passing  by 
Hovel  and  mart  and  palace,  soon  or  late 
I  knock  unbidden  once  at  every  gate. 
If  sleeping,  wake;  feasting,  rise  before 
I  turn  away.     It  is  the  hour  of  fate, 
And  they  who  follow  me  reach  every  state 
Mortals  desire,  and  conquer  every  foe 

Save  death;  but  those  who  doubt  or  hesitate, 
Condemned  to  failure,  penury,  and  woe, 
Seek  me  in  vain,  and  uselessly  implore. 
I  answer  not,  and  I  return  no  more." 

The  town's  name  was  probably  due  to  the  fact  that  it  was 
made  up  from  portions  of  the  surrounding  towns  of  Andover, 
Boxford,  Topsfield,  and  Salem.  Previously  the  inhabitants 
were  known  as  "Wills-Hill  Men"  from  Wills  Hill  south  of  the 
village  beside  the  Ipswich  river. 

The  route  follows  the  yellow  markers  across  North  Andover 
township,  crossing  Route  28  (p  511)  between  the  villages  of 
Andover,  on  the  left,  and  North  Andover,  on  the  right,  and 
joining  Route  38  at 
21.0     LAWRENCE  (R.  38,  p  699). 


R.  38.    NEWBURYPORT  to  LITTLETON  COMMON.  45.0  m. 
Via  AMESBURY,  HAVERHILL,  LAWRENCE,  and  LOWELL. 

This  route  leads  through  the  lower  valley  of  the  Merrimack, 
a  region  of  much  natural  beauty  and  pre-eminently  the  'Whit- 
tier  country,'  every  phase  and  feature  of  which  has  been  dwelt 
upon  in  his  poems.  "Among  the  blessings  which  I  would 
gratefully  own,"  Whittier  writes,  "is  the  fact  that  my  lot  has 
been  cast  in  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Merrimack,  within 
sight  of  Newbury  steeples,  Plum  Island,  and  Crane  Neck  and 
Pipestave  Hills." 

From  Salisbury  Beach  along  the  north  side  of  the  Merrimack 
river  a  State  Highway  extends  through  Lowell  and  on  to  Little- 
ton, clearly  marked  by  the  Massachusetts  Highway  Commis- 
sion with  yellow  bands  on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts. 

From  Newburyport  follow  Winter  St.  across  the  long  iron 
bridge  over  the  Merrimack  and  over  the  marshes  for  a  mile 
and  a  half  to  East  Salisbury,  there  turning  sharp  left  on  the 
State  Highway  from  here  marked  by  yellow  bands. 

5.0     SALISBURY.     Alt  27  ft.     Pop   (twp)  1658  (1910),  1717   (1915). 

Essex  Co.      Settled  1638. 

Salisbury  village  lies  on  the  Powow  and  Merrimack  rivers 
immediately  opposite  Amesbury  with  which  it  has  community 
of  interests.  The  attractive  old  meeting  house  still  has 
beside  the  door  the  stepping  stones  from  which  those  who 
came  to  church  on  horseback  used  to  mount  their  horses. 
The  mother  of  Daniel  Webster  was  baptized  here. 

The  shorter  and  more  direct  route  from  Newburyport  to 
Amesbury  (4.5)  follows  High  St.  along  the  ridge  above  the 
Merrimack  for  two  miles,  then  turns  right  and  crosses  the 
river  by  two  bridges  which  connect  Deer  Island  with  either 
bank.  This  was  the  site  of  the  Old  Chain  Bridge,  the  first 
suspension  bridge  built  in  America  (1810,  rebuilt  1837).  A 
new  bridge  was  constructed  in  1915  on  a  different  plan,  al- 
though still  retaining  the  appearance  of  a  chain  bridge.  One 
section  is  a  truss  bridge  with  a  draw  to  accommodate  the 
rapidly  disappearing  river  navigation.  Deer  Island  has  long 
been  the  home  of  Mrs.  Harriet  Prescott  Spofford,  story- 
writer  and  poet,  now  eighty  years  of  age.  Here  she  still 
spends  her  summers  in  her  quaint,  vine-clad  home  on  the 
charming  little  tree-grown,  cliff-like  island  of  eight  acres. 
Beginning  to  write  when  a  girl,  her  active  literary  career  has 
covered  a  period  of  threescore  and  ten  years. 

Crossing   the   bridge,    follow   the   trolley   along   Main   St. 

(6Q4) 


R.  38.      NEWBURYPORT   TO    LITTLETON    COMMON  695 

through  Salisbury  Point,  cross  the  mouth  of  the  Powow  river 
and  turn  right,  into  Amesbury. 

An  alternate  route  follows  High  St.  and  keeping  south  of 
the  Merrimack  river,  a  State  Highway  marked  by  red  bands 
on  poles  and  posts  leads  westward  past  the  orchards  and 
nurseries  of  West  Newbury  (7.0).  The  Cherry  Hill  Nurseries 
are  especially  famous  and  are  much  visited  during  the  blossom- 
ing season,  especially  in  June  when  the  peonies  and  apple 
blossoms  are  in  their  height. 

Continuing  through  the  village  of  Groveland  (9.5)  turn 
right  with  red  bands,  crossing  the  bridge  over  the  Merrimack, 
and  entering  Groveland  St.,  Haverhill  (12.5;  p  513). 

5.5  AMESBURY.  Pop  (twp)  9894  (1910),  8543  (1915);  one  fifth 
foreign-born.  Essex  Co.  Settled  1638.  Mfg.  automobile 
bodies  and  lamps,  motorboats,  hats,  cotton  goods,  and  shoes. 
Value  of  Product  (1913),  $3,918,000;  Payroll,  $1,132,000. 

Amesbury  has  always  been  a  busy  little  town,  with  a  shrewd 
eye  to  the  main  chance;  for  years  it  has  been  the  home  of 
many  Quaker  families,  whose  peaceful  propensities  have  long 
been  associated  with  economy  and  good  business  management. 
The  making  of  automobile  bodies  and  lamps  is  a  leading  indus- 
try, proof  of  the  versatile  adaptability  of  the  natives,  who 
but  a  generation  ago  were  making  carriages  and  carriage  lamps 
— an  industry  handed  down  from  father  to  son  from  the  time 
when  most  Amesbury  houses  had  a  back  yard  shop  where  car- 
riage parts  were  made  and  then  assembled  at  the  'factory.' 
In  appearance  the  town  is  oldfashioned  and  quaint,  like 
Marblehead,  with  odd,  winding  streets  ascending  the  slopes 
of  Powow  and  Whittier  Hills. 

On  Friend  St.,  off  Main  St.,  northwest  from  Market  Square, 
is  the  cottage  in  which  Whittier,  'the  Quaker  Poet,'  resided 
(1836-92);  the  poet's  furnishings  have  been  carefully  retained 
and  it  well  repays  a  visit  (adm.  free,  but  fee  is  usual).  Green- 
leaf  W.  Pickard,  the  grandnephew  of  the  poet,  now  lives 
there  and  is  pleased  to  show  the  house  to  visitors.  The  house 
grew  as  Whittier  prospered;  the  "garden  room,"  in  which 
he  wrote  "Snowbound"  and  "The  Eternal  Goodness,"  has 
been  kept  much  as  Whittier  left  it.  Of  his  poems  432,  in- 
cluding the  best  known,  were  written  here.  School  commit- 
tee-man and  library  trustee,  and  active  in  town  affairs,  his 
homely  wit  and  wisdom  are  still  recalled  by  old  inhabitants. 

The  Quaker  meeting  house,  on  the  same  street,  was  built 
from  plans  drawn  by  Whittier.  A  silver  plate  marks  the 
poet's  seat,  where  in  the  silent  meeting  on  a  Sunday  morning 
in  1863  he  composed  "Laus  Deo"  while  the  cannon  and  the 
church  bells  announced  the  final  act  in  the  emancipation  of 


696  AMESBURY— HAVERHILL 

the  slaves.     Of  this  poem,  Whittier  wrote  Lucy  Larcom, — 
"It  wrote  itself  or  rather  sang  itself  while  the  bells  rang." 

"It  is  done! 

Clang  of  bell  and  roar  of  gun 
Send  the  tidings  up  and  down. 

How  the  belfries  rock  and  reel! 

How  the  great  guns,  peal  on  peal, 
Fling  the  joy  from  town  to  town!" 

The  Captain's  Well,  on  Main  St.  near  Bartlett's  Corner  at 
the  foot  of  Wells  Ave.,  was  the  result  of  Captain  Bagley's  vow, 
made  when  shipwrecked,  to  dig  a  well  by  the  wayside  for  the 
comfort  of  all  travelers  if  he  were  rescued.  This  is  the  subject 
of  a  poem  by  Whittier. 

Slightly  further  on  is  the  Macy  house,  built  before  1654, 
by  Thomas  Macy,  the  first  town  clerk  of  Amesbury,  driven 
from  the  town  for  harboring  a  Quaker  in  1659,  as  related  in 
Whittier's  poem  "The  Exiles."  It  is  now  cared  for  by  the 
Josiah  Bartlett  Chapter  of  the  D.A.R.  The  site  of  Bartlett's 
birthplace,  whose  name  as  a  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence appears  next  after  that  of  Hancock,  is  marked  by 
a  tablet  in  the  yard  of  the  Old  Ladies'  Home,  close  by. 

Behind  the  Macy  house  in  the  family  lot  in  the  Union  Ceme- 
tery is  Whittier's  grave,  surrounded  by  a  thick  hedge  of  arbor 
vitae.  The  stone  marking  his  grave  bears  the  last  three  words 
of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes'  "Tribute  to  Whittier": 

"Lift  from  its  quarried  ledge  a  flawless  stone; 

Smooth  the  green  turf  and  bid  the  tablet  rise, 
And  on  its  snow-white  surface  carve  alone 

These  words, — he  needs  no  more, — HERE  WHITTIER  LIES." 

In  1638  the  north  shore  of  the  Merrimack  was  laid  out  as  "The 
Plantation,"  extending  some  ten  miles  westward  from  the  sea.  First 
known  as  Colchester,  it  was  soon  named  Salisbury,  as  a  compliment 
to  its  first  minister,  from  Salisbury,  England.  In  1644  the  town 
assembly  established  half  the  population  at  the  falls  of  the  Powow 
river  where  it  drops  ninety  feet,  supplying  an  important  head  of 
power  that  has  attracted  industries  ever  since.  Shipbuilding  was  the 
first  important  industry,  owing  to  the  accessibility  of  timber  and 
power.  The  first  navy  yard  of  the  United  States  was,  in  reality,  the 
shipyard  of  William  Hackett,  the  most  skillful  naval  architect  of  New 
England  during  the  Revolution.  Here  he  built  the  "Alliance,"  the 
first  frigate  of  the  new  American  nation,  on  which  Lafayette  returned 
to  France,  and  later  in  Paul  Jones'  squadron. 

In  1767  Amesbury  encouraged  home  industry  by  granting  land  for 
a  hatter's  shop.  Since  that  time  the  trade  has  continued,  in  proof 
whereof  witness  the  factories  of  the  Merrimac  Hat  Company.  The 
carriage  industry  began  in  1800  and  grew  to  large  proportions,  so  that 
some  years  ago  there  were  fifty  factories  with  a  yearly  output  of 
25,000  vehicles.  Fifteen  firms  formerly  in  the  carriage  business  now 
build  the  bodies  of  half  a  dozen  popular  cars.  Among  these  are  the 
Biddle  &  Smart  Company,  the  Briggs  Carriage  Company,  and  the 
Walter  Wells  Company.  Firms  which  formerly  made  carriage  lamps 
today  have  a  large  output  of  automobile  lamps  and  searchlights. 


R.  38.     NEWBURYPORT  TO   LITTLETON   COMMON  697 

From  Amesbury  follow  the  trolley  tracks  along  the  macadam 
State  Highway  marked  with  yellow  bands  through  Merrimack 
Village  (9.0).  About  three  miles  beyond,  on  the  right  of  the 
elm-shaded  road,  marked  by  a  granite  monument,  is  Whittier's 
birthplace,  a  modest  two-story  white  frame  house  with  lilac 
bushes  in  the  dooryard.  The  house,  built  by  Thomas  Whit- 
tier  in  1688,  has  been  restored  by  the  Whittier  Association. 
Opposite  is  the  barn,  nearby  the  brook,  and  on  all  sides  except 
to  the  south,  green  meadows  and  woodland,  the  scenes  repre- 
sented in  "Snowbound"  and  "The  Barefoot  Boy."  A  little 
way  from  the  Whittier  homestead  stands  on  a  side  road  the 
venerable  Whittier  elm  and  in  its  neighborhood  is  the  site  of 
"the  school  house  by  the  road,  a  ragged  beggar  sunning." 

The  Peaselee  Garrison  House  on  the  road  that  leads  toward 
Rocks  Village  and  the  Merrimack  was  built  in  1675  by  Joseph 


WHITTIER  S  BIRTHPLACE,   THE  SCENE  OF       SNOW] 


Peaselee  and  was  the  home  of  Whittier's  great-grandmother, 
Mary  Peaselee.  Its  solid  sixteen-inch  walls  are  of  white  oak 
and  brick.  In  style  it  is  like  a  small  English  manor  house, 
unusual  in  New  England. 

The  road  skirts  Kenoza  Lake  and  is  bordered  beyond  by 
Winnikenni  Park.  In  the  city  a  mile  beyond  on  Winter  St. 
is  the  Whittier  School,  formerly  the  Academy  for  which 
Whittier,  when  nineteen,  wrote  a  dedication  ode. 

1S.S  HAVERHILL.  Alt  35  ft.  Pop  44,115  (1910),  49,450  (1915); 
about  one  third  foreign-born,  largely  Canadians  and  Irish. 
Essex  Co.  Settled  1640.  Indian  name  Pentucket.  Mfg. 
shoes,  slippers,  shoe  stock  and  findings,  paper  and  wooden 
boxes,  models  and  patterns,  wool  and  felt  hats,  woolen  and 
worsted  goods.  Value  of  Product  (1915),  $43,671,000;  Pay- 
roll, $8,809,000. 

Haverhill  is  a  shoe  town  and  gained  its  industrial  fame  as 
the  'slipper  city.'  Its  specialty  today  is  the  production  of 
fine  footwear.  It  is  built  on  hills  facing  the  Merrimack  river 


698  HAVERHILL— LAWRENCE 

at  the  head  of  navigation,  eighteen  miles  from  the  ocean. 
More  than  230  firms  are  engaged  in  the  shoe  industry  employ- 
ing a  maximum  of  16,000  hands  and  making  22,000,000  pairs 
of  shoes  annually. 

The  Buttonwoods  (1814),  now  owned  by  the  Historical 
Society,  looking  down  the  Merrimack,  contains  a  collection  of 
Indian  and  Colonial  relics.  In  front  stand  the  two  remaining 
sycamores,  of  which  Whittier  wrote: 

"In  the  outskirts  of  the  village, 

On  the  river's  winding  shores, 
Stand  the  Occidental  plane-trees, 

Stand  the  ancient  sycamores." 

They  are  twenty  feet  in  girth  and  eighty  feet  in  height,  and 
were  planted  in  1739  by  Hugh  Tallant,  the  servant  of  Judge 
Richard  Saltonstall. 

Three  quarters  of  a  mile  down  river  from  the  Haverhill 
Bridge  on  Groveland  Ave.,  and  beyond  The  Buttonwoods,  is 
the  Spiller  or  Hazen  Garrison  House  which  dates  from  1680-90 
and  is  said  to  be  the  first  building  used  as  a  shoe  factory. 
It  is  of  brick,  a  perfect  type  of  Kentish  manor  house.  Within 
are  two  eight-foot  fireplaces  with  'beehive  ovens.'  The  house 
is  one  of  the  chain  owned  by  Mr.  Wallace  Nutting  and  is  open 
to  visitors  (adm.  25  cents). 

Route  28  (p  513),  from  Andover  and  Boston,  enters  here. 

In  1640  "twelve  desirable  men  and  good  Christians  from  Ipswich  and 
Newbury"  landed  at  a  spot  called  Pentucket  from  the  Indian  tribe 
of  the  locality.  The  town  was  named  for  Haverhill,  England,  which 
had  been  the  home  of  John  Ward,  the  first  pastor. 

There  were  such  quantities  of  shad  and  salmon  in  the  river  that 
apprentices  of  this  time  contracted  that  they  should  not  eat  salmon 
more  than  six  times  a  week.  The  fish  were  also  used  as  fertilizer,  the 
farmers  dropping  from  one  to  three  in  each  hill  of  corn.  In  the  old 
seventeenth  century  town  records,  "It  is  ordered  that  all  doggs  for  the 
space  of  three  weeks  shall  have  one  legg  tyed  up;  if  a  man  refuse 
to  tye  up  his  dogg's  legg  and  hee  be  found  scraping  up  fish  in  a  corn 
field,  the  owner  thereof  shall  pay  twelve  pence  damages." 

Haverhill  as  a  frontier  settlement  suffered  from  Indian  raids.  On 
the  night  of  the  isth  of  March,  1697,  the  Indians  descended  upon  the 
westerly  part  of  the  town  and  attacked  the  house  of  Thomas  Dustin, 
a  worthy  brick  manufacturer  of  the  day.  Mr.  Dustin  and  seven  of 
his  children  escaped,  but  his  wife,  Hannah  Dustin,  who  had  given 
birth  to  a  child  within  a  week,  was  taken  captive  together  with  the 
nurse  and  carried  away  with  them  on  their  retreat  up  the  Merrimack. 
The  Indians  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance  when  the  infant, 
proving  an  encumbrance,  was  killed  by  dashing  its  head  against  a  tree. 
Near  the  present  site  of  Concord,  N.H.,  Mrs.  Dustin  slew  her  cap- 
tors and  escaped.  Again  on  Aug.  29,  1708,  200  or  more  Indians 
and  French  Canadians  attacked  the  town  and  massacred  sixteen  of 
the  inhabitants.  Whittier  in  his  poem  "Pentucket"  deals  with 
incidents  of  this  event.  During  the  eighteenth  century  the  town  pros- 
pered. There  was  a  good  deal  of  shipbuilding  and  the  trading  mer- 
chants became  wellknown  in  the  West  India  trade.  Washington 
came  here  on  Nov.  4,  1789,  and  thought  the  town  one  of  the  finest  he 


R.  38.      NEWBURYPORT   TO    LITTLETON    COMMON  699 


had  seen.     The  manufacture  of  shoes  and  slippers  began  in  1795  and 
the  woolen  hat  industry  about  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century. 

In  April,  1916,  Haverhill  won  a  place  on  the  front  pages  of  the 
newspapers.  A  mob  of  10,000  held  sway  all  one  night,  besieging  the 
City  Hall  and  destroying  property.  The  occasion  was  a  lecture 
announced  on  the  subject  of  "Why  the  Roman  Hierarchy  opposes  the 
American  Public  School  System."  The  lecture  was  prevented  and 
an  effigy  labeled  "Free  Speech"  burned.  The  pusillanimous  mayor 
and  the  officials  of  the  city  have  only  to  their  credit  that  they  saved 
the  life  of  the  lecturer,  who  escaped  in  disguise. 

From  Washington  Square,  Haverhill,  turn  right  and  follow 
the  trolley  on  Washington  St.  under  R.R.  and  along  River  St. 
parallel  with  the  Merrimack.  At  the  fork,  East  Haverhill  St. 
and  Jackson  St.  lead  with  yellow  markers  to  Lawrence. 

Note.  By  keeping  right,  on  Swan  St.,  Lawrence  is  avoided 
and  the  yellow-marked  route  rejoined  beyond 

METHUEN.  Alt  105  ft.  Pop  (twp)  11,448  (1910),  14,007  (1915). 
Essex  Co.  Inc.  1725.  Mfg.  cotton,  woolens,  hats,  and  organs. 

Methuen  was  named  for  Lord  Paul  Methuen.  Its  broad, 
shaded  streets  retain  a  good  deal  of  their  oldtime  dignity 
although  this  is  a  center  for  woolen  mills  and  organ  works. 

The  industrial  portion  of  the  town  lies  along  the  river  at 
Spicket  Falls  and  the  residence  section  covers  the  surrounding 
uplands,  rising  in  a  series  of  terraces.  Among  the  important 
buildings  are  the  Memorial  Hall  and  Library  commemorating 
David  Nevins,  who,  half  a  century  ago,  was  the  industrial 
leader  here.  The  Congregational  Church  has  a  stained  glass 
window,  one  of  the  important  works  of  John  LaFarge,  given 
by  Mrs.  Henry  C.  Nevins  in  memory  of  her  husband.  Among 
the  older  buildings  are  the  Frye  Tavern  on  Meeting  House 
Hill,  the  Stephen  Barker  place,  and  the  Nevins  estate.  On 
a  hill  beyond  the  town  is  Pine  Lodge,  the  palatial  estate  of 
Edward  F.  Searles,  easily  recognized  by  the  conspicuous  Chime 
Tower.  In  the  grounds  is  a  monument  to  George  Washington, 
the  masterpiece  of  Thomas  Ball,  the  sculptor,  made  especially 
striking  by  its  picturesque  setting. 

The  manufactures  of  Methuen  include  the  Methuen  Organ 
Works,  which  turn  out  some  of  the  finest  organs  in  the  coun- 
try, and  the  Methuen  Company  (cotton  mills). 

The  main  route,  with  yellow  markers,  leads  straight  through 

25.0  LAWRENCE.  Alt  65  ft.  Pop  85,892  (1910),  90,259  (1915); 
half  foreign-born.  County-seat  of  Essex  Co.  Inc.  1847. 
Mfg.  cotton,  woolen,  and  worsted  goods,  paper  and  wood  pulp, 
foundry  and  machine  shop  products;  dyeing  and  finishing 
textiles.  Value  of  Product  (1913),  $70,205,000;  Payroll, 
$13,677,000. 
Lawrence,  seventy  years  ago  a  settlement  of  one  hundred 

people,  is  today  America's  center  of  woolen  manufactures. 


700  LAWRENCE— CHELMSFORD 

The  Merrimack  at  this  point  fell  about  28  feet  in  a  series  of  rapids. 
In  1843  'Spirit  Level'  Saunders,  an  engineer,  conceived  a  dam  across 
the  river,  a  thousand  feet  wide,  to  concentrate  the  water  in  one  fall 
and  create  a  great  power.  Saunders  bought  the  right  to  one  of  the 
falls,  and  other  capitalists,  Samuel  Lawrence,  Nathan  Appleton,  John 
Nesmith,  and  Abbott  Lawrence,  became  interested  and  bought  up  more 
rights.  In  1844  the  Essex  Company  was  formed  and  the  great  dam 
thrown  across  the  river.  This  dam  is  1000  feet  across,  35  feet  wide 
at  the  base,  and  12  feet  wide  at  the  top,  and  is  bolted  to  a  solid  ledge 
at  the  river  bottom.  It  produces  more  than  12,000  h.p.,  distributed 
to  the  mills  by  canals  on  either  hank.  This  power  today  drives  more 
than  1,000,000  spindles  and  looms  and  creates  an  annual  commerce 
valued  at  $100,000,000. 

The  city  is  commonly  said  to  have  received  its  name  from 
Abbott  Lawrence,  the  first  president  of  the  Essex  Company, 
who  was  one  of  the  nine  children  of  "Deacon"  Lawrence  of 
Groton.  He  became  minister  to  England  t  (1849-52)  and 
founded  the  Lawrence  Scientific  School  at'  Harvard.  His 
brother,  Amos,  was  a  wellknown  philanthropist  and  the 
grandfather  of  Bishop  Lawrence.  In  1845  the  city  had 
a  population  of  150,  five  years  later  it  was  8200,  and  today 
Greater  Lawrence,  including  Methuen  and  North  Andover, 
has  a  population  of  125,000.  Nearly  half  of  this  population 
is  foreign-born,  including  Italians,  Syrians,  Poles,  Armenians. 

The  corrupt  political  conditions  of  a  few  years  ago,  which 
resulted  in  the  jailing  of  the  Mayor  and  many  of  the  aldermen, 
finally  led  to  the  adoption  of  a  commission  form  of  govern- 
ment composed  of  five  commissioners. 

About  three  years  ago  Lawrence  figured  largely  in  the  head- 
lines of  the  papers  as  the  scene  of  a  great  strike  on  the  part  of 
the  mill  operatives,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Industrial  Work- 
ers of  the  World.  Subsequent  investigations  revealed  dis- 
graceful conditions  of  housing  and  pay.  This  was  not  the 
first  occasion  in  which  Lawrence  has  thus  appeared  to  dis- 
advantage. In  1860  the  Pemberton  Mills  fell  on  account  of 
thin  walls  and  insufficient  support  and  took  fire,  with  the 
result  that  525  were  killed  and  wounded. 

Near  the  center  of  the  city  is  a  fine  green  square  surrounded 
by  churches  and  the  various  city  and  county  buildings.  On 
the  south  side  is  the  City  Hall  and  in  the  base  of  the  tower 
are  two  cannon  balls  with  the  inscription: 

"This  shot  was  hurled  from  the  Monitor  Fleet  against  Fort  Sumter, 
during  the  Siege  of  Charleston,  1863,  in  the  cause  of  Human  Freedom. 
Found  among  the  ruins  and  presented  to  the  City  of  Lawrence  by 
G.  V.  Fox,  Assistant  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  1865." 

As  has  been  stated,  Lawrence  is  the  foremost  woolen  center  in  the 
country,  having  recently  surpassed  Philadelphia,  which  long  held  this 
honor.  The  capital  of  its  fifteen  plants  engaged  in  producing  woolen 
goods  is  valued  at  over  $57,000,000.  An  annual  payroll  of  $20,000,000 
is  distributed  to  over  40,000  operatives.  Some  of  the  mills  with  their 
valuations  are:  the  Pacific  Mills,  worsteds,  cotton,  $9,250,890;  the 


R.  38.     NEWBURYPORT   TO   LITTLETON    COMMON  701 

new  Wood  Mill,  worsted,  $5,635,250;  the  Arlington  Mills,  $3,664,500; 
the  Washington  Mill,  woolens,  $3,351,200;  the  Ayer  Mill;  the  Everett 
Mill,  cotton.  The  Wood  Mill  is  the  largest  single  mill  plant  in  the 
world,  covering  2g  acres  of  floor  space.  The  Everett  Mill  is  the  big- 
gest single  cotton  mill  building  in  the  country.  The  Pacific  Mills  are 
said  to  be  the  largest  print  works  in  the  world.  The  Champion- 
International  Company  is  one  of  the  largest  plants  in  the  world  pro- 
ducing coated  paper.  This  concern  furnishes  the  paper  for  "Scrib- 
ner's,"  "Country  Life,"  "National  Geographic,"  and  many  other 
equally  wellknown  publications.  The  Archibald  Wheel  Company  is 
the  largest  concern  of  the  kind  in  the  country.  The  American  Woolen 
Company,  owners  of  the  Wood,  Washington,  and  Ayer  Mills,  have  been 
to  the  fore  in  the  erection  of  model  tenements  for  their  employees. 

The  Federal  Government  is  now  considering  a  project  to  improve 
the  Merrimack  so  as  to  make  it  navigable  from  Lowell  to  the  sea,  thus 
forming  a  natural  outlet  for  the  commerce  of  the  valley,  which  has  an 
annual  value  of  over  $300,000,000,  or  more  than  that  of  any  one 
American  seaport  except  New  York. 

Route  37  (p  693)  enters  from  North  Andover  and  Salem. 

From  Lawrence,  Haverhill  Street  and  Orchard  Street  lead 
into  the  State  Highway,  marked  by  yellow  bands,  which,  joined 
by  the  road  from  Methuen,  passes  between  Meeting  House  Hill 
(220  ft)  and  the  Merrinu  ck,  and  follows  the  river  for  several 
miles,  following  Bradley  and  Central  Sts.  between  Christian 
Hill  (300  ft)  and  the  river,  passes  through  the  outskirts  of 
Centralville,  and  turns  left  on  Bridge  St.  across  the  iron  bridge 
over  the  Merrimack,  into  Merrimack  St.  and  Central  St., 
meeting  Routes  27  and  34. 

34.0     LOWELL  (R.  34,  p  604). 

The  route  leaves  Lowell  via  Appleton  St.  over  R.R.  and 
Chelmsford  St.,  through  the  suburb  known  as  Ayers  City,  and 
follows  the  valley  of  River  Meadow  Brook  to 

38.0  CHELMSFORD.  Alt  ISO  ft.  Pop  (twp)  5010  (1910),  5182  (1915). 
Middlesex  Co.  Settled  1653.  Indian  name  Pawtucket. 

Chelmsford  is  a  quiet  old  place  with  country  roads  and 
grassy  lanes.  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  taught  in  the  Chelms- 
ford Classical  School  for  a  time.  Among  the  old  houses  are 
the  Fiske  house  on  Central  Square,  the  John  Penham  Cider 
Farm  (1664),  and  the  Emerson  house  (1660).  Jeffries  Wyman 
(b.  1814),  the  distinguished  anatomist,  was  a  native. 

The  State  Highway  runs  almost  straight,  crossing  Route  26 
(p  507)  and  then  R.R.  at  East  Littleton  Station  (43.5)  and 
Littleton  Common  (45.0),  meeting  Route  15  (p  420). 

Note.  For  Worcester  and  other  western  connections  con- 
tinue through  ACTON  (51.0),  on  Route  15  (p  420),  WEST  ACTON 
(53-5)7  STOW  (56.0),  HUDSON  (61.0),  on  Route  25  (p  505),  to 
MARLBORO  (64.0),  and  by  Route  i  to  WORCESTER  (80.0). 


R.  39.     PORTSMOUTH  to  MANCHESTER.     46.0  m. 

This  route  follows  a  State  Highway  marked  by  brown 
bands  with  white  borders  on  telephone  poles  and  fence  posts. 
It  leads  along  the  Greenland  meadows  to  Exeter,  the  seat  of 
Phillips  Exeter  Academy.  Thence  the  road  leads  through  a 
quietly  attractive  country  down  the  Pawtuckaway  river 
through  Raymond  and  Candia  to  Manchester,  or  to  Concord. 

The  route  leaves  Portsmouth  by  Middle  St.,  bearing  right, 
with  the  brown  markers,  through  the  hamlet  of  GREENLAND 
(5.0)  and  skirting  Great  Bay,  to  the  north.  Rounding  Stratham 
Hill  (288  ft)  it  continues  through  STRATHAM  (10.0). 

14.0  EXETER.  Alt  58  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4879.  Rockingham  Co.  Set- 
tled 1638.  Mfg.  cotton,  shoes,  pottery,  brass,  and  brick. 

Exeter  is  a  fine  old  town  situated  at  the  falls  of  the  Exeter 
river,  which  below  is  known  as  the  Squamscott,  at  the  head 
of  tidewater  twenty-eight  miles  from  the  sea  by  the  rivers, 
ten  by  road.  For  a  century  and  a  half  it  has  been  famous  for 
its  academy,  but  it  is  also  a  place  of  thriving  industry. 

Exeter  was  founded  in  1638  by  the  Rev.  John  Wheelwright  who 
had  been  banished  from  Massachusetts  for  the  heresy  of  Antinomian- 
ism.  He  purchased  the  land  from  Passaconaway,  the  famous  chief 
of  the  Pennacooks.  In  1642  the  settlement  was  annexed  to  Essex 
County,  Massachusetts,  and  Wheelwright  was  forced  to  more  distant 
exile.  From  1650  to  the  end  of  the  century  the  town  suffered  severely 
from  Indian  attacks  and  a  garrison  house  was  built  which  is  still  pre- 
served. Exeter  was  an  important  commercial  town  at  the  time  of 
the  Revolution  and  thirty-eight  of  her  men  died  in  the  Continental 
army.  Washington  visited  the  place  on  his  tour  of  1789  and  had  a 
breakfast  at  Folsom's  Inn.  He  wrote  in  his  diary:  "It  is  a  place  of 
some  consequence,  but  does  not  contain  more  than  one  thousand 
inhabitants.  A  jealousy  subsists  between  this  town,  where  the  legis- 
lature alternately  sits,  and  Portsmouth,  which,  had  I  known  of  it  in 
time,  would  have  made  it  necessary  to  have  accepted  an  invitation 
to  a  public  dinner." 

President  Dwight  of  Yale  at  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century 
wrote  thus  of  Exeter:  "The  morals  of  the  inhabitants  have  been  much 
improved  during  the  last  half  century.  Formerly,  they  were  em- 
ployed to  a  great  extent  in  the  business  of  getting  lumber.  The  effects 
of  this  dissolute  business  I  shall  consider  hereafter.  Suffice  it  now 
to  say,  that  such  of  the  people  of  Exeter  as  were  engaged  in  it  were 
poor,  idle,  haunters  of  taverns,  and  devoted  to  all  the  baser  pursuits 
of  vulgar  vice.  In  consequence  of  the  termination  of  this  business, 
industry  has  succeeded  to  sloth,  regularity  to  dissoluteness,  thrift  to 
poverty,  and  comfort  and  reputation  to  suffering  and  shame." 

Exeter  has  a  number  of  wide,  elm-lined  streets  well  in 
keeping  with  its  character  as  an  academic  town.  There  is  an 
attractive  natural  park  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  known  as 
Gilman  Park.  On  a  little  hill  rising  from  the  riverbank  near 
the  Town  Hall  is  the  First  Church,  erected  in  1798  on  the  site 
of  four  earlier  meeting  houses.  Curfew  is  still  rung  from 
here  nightly.  Among  the  other  old  houses  are  the* very  inter- 

(702) 


R.  39.      PORTSMOUTH   TO    MANCHESTER  703 

esting  Phillips  mansion;  Under  the  Elm,  a  gambrel- roofed 
house  built  about  1740,  now  owned  by  the  Academy;  the  old 
Powder  House  (1760)  on  the  bank  of  the  Squamscott. 

The  old  Garrison  House  at  the  corner  of  Water  and  Clifford 
Sts.  is  historically  the  most  interesting  of  all  Exeter's  old 
buildings,  although  its  original  appearance  has  been  much 
changed  by  later  additions.  It  was  erected  about  1650  by 
Edward  Oilman  and  had  a  projecting  upper  story  as  a  pro- 
tection against  the  Indians.  Daniel  Webster  boarded  here 
in  1796  when  a  student  at  the  Academy.  His  little  room  on 
the  second  floor,  in  which  is  preserved  his  writing  table  and 
other  relics,  is  shown.  Folsom's  Tavern,  built  in  1787,  where 
Washington  breakfasted,  stands  on  the  corner  of  Water  St. 
and  Court  Square. 

The  Academy  buildings  and  campus  of  Phillips  Academy 
lie  on  either  side  of  Front  St.  The  main  Academy  building, 
built  in  1914,  copies  an  older  building.  In  Merrill  Hall,  a 
three-story  building  of  brick,  are  the  administrative  offices  and 
some  of  the  recitation  rooms;  Alumni  Hall  contains  the  great 
dining  hall;  Dunbar  and  Webster  Halls  are  two  of  the  newer 
dormitories;  Plimpton  Playing  Fields  lie  beside  the  river. 

The  Phillips  family  were  natives  of  Exeter.  George  Phillips  had 
been  a  follower  of  Winthrop's  at  Salem  in  1630,  and  Samuel  Phillips, 
the  fifth  in  descent,  with  his  kinsmen  founded  Phillips  Academy 
(p  511)  at  Andover  in  1780,  the  first  of  New  England  academies.  The 
following  year,  his  uncle  John  Phillips,  stimulated  by  the  success  of 
the  Andover  school,  founded  and  endowed  this  academy  in  his  home 
town.  Exeter  enrolls  five  hundred  and  fifty  boys  from  all  parts  of 
the  country  and  among  her  alumni  are  perhaps  a  greater  number  of 
famous  names  than  any  other  school  can  show. 

Robinson  Seminary,  a  school  for  girls  with  a  local  attendance 
of  three  hundred,  stands  on  an  extensive  parklike  square. 

"The  Real  Diary  of  a  Real  Boy"  and  its  equally  amusing 
"Sequil"  describe  the  outdoor  days  and  friends  of  its  author, 
Judge  Henry  A.  Shute,  a  native  of  Exeter.  Many  of  its 
characters  are  wellknown  'grown  ups'  today. 

Passing  through  the  village  of  Epping  (22.0)  the  route 
follows  brown  markers  past  West  Epping  (24.5)  to 

28.0     RAYMOND.     Alt  202  ft.     Pop  (twp)  1100.     Rockingham  Co. 

This  is  a  country  shopping  center  and  a  resort  for  the  less 
pretentious  type  of  summer  boarders.  The  route,  with  brown 
markers,  winds  through  the  hills  into  CANDIA  (34.0). 

Note.     The  road  straight  on  leads  to  SUNCOOK  (42.0;  p  608). 

The  main  route  turns  left  with  the  brown  markers  past 
Lake  Massabesic  to  join  Route  34  at 
46.0     MANCHESTER.     (R.  34,  p  607). 


R.  40.     NASHUA  to  KEENE.  49.0  m. 

This  route  follows  the  South  Side  Road,  a  State  Highway, 
marked  with  brown  bands  with  white  borders  on  poles  and 
posts  at  doubtful  points. 

Stretches  of  the  road  in  Peterboro  and  Dublin  have  not  yet 
been  reconstructed  by  the  State. 

The  route  leaves  Main  St.,  Nashua,  turning  left  by  the 
Soldiers'  Monument,  on  Amherst  St.  Passing  through  South 
Merrimack  (5.5)  it  continues  to 

11.0     MILFORD.     Alt  250  ft.    Pop  (twp)  4100.     Hillsboro  Co.     Mfg. 

yarns,  ice  cream  freezers,  shoes,  and  wooden  ware. 
Milford  is  an  industrial  village  in  the  meadows  along  the 
Souhegan  river.     The  factory  of  the  White  Mountain  Freezer 
Company  is  located  here.     The  route  follows  brown  markers 
westward  through  a  quiet  hill  country. 

16.0     WILTON.     Alt  345  ft.     Pop  (twp)  1490.     Hillsboro  Co.    Mfg. 

furniture,  woolens,  and  wooden  ware. 

Wilton  is  another  little  factory  village  on  the  Souhegan. 
This  region  is  a  favorite  with  summer  boarders.  Continuing 
through  West  Wilton  (19.5)  the  road  climbs  through  a  notch 
between  Pack  Monadnock  Mountain  (2280  ft)  to  the  north 
and  Temple  Mountain  (2081  ft)  to  the  south.  At  the  summit 
of  the  pass  (1486  ft)  a  road  branches  right,  to  the  summit  of 
Pack  Monadnock  and  Miller  Park  (p  379).  Descending  past 
Cunningham  Pond  the  route  crosses  Route  12  at 

28.5     PETERBORO  (R.  12,  p  378). 

Following  the  brown  markers  the  route  leads  to 

35.5     DUBLIN.     Alt  1493  ft.     Pop  (twp)  571.     Cheshire  Co. 

This  is  the  highest  village  in  New  England.  Its  lovely 
lake  and  mountain  views  make  it  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
spots  in  New  Hampshire.  It  has  now  become  a  region  of 
country  estates,  including  the  homes  of  many  wellknown 
artists  and  literary  folk.  Dublin  has  become  somewhat  more 
fashionable  than  its  rival  summer  artistic  centers  of  the  State, 
Cornish  or  Chocorua.  There  is  perhaps  a  greater  display  of 
wealth  here.  A  few  enormous  summer  residences  are  con- 
spicuous on  the  mountainside,  but  something  of  the  simplicity 
and  artistic  flavor  of  its  summer  life  remains,  which  leads  to 
this  locality  being  called  'The  Latin  Quarter.'  Here  lives 
in  remote  seclusion,  Abbott  Thayer,  artist  and  na'  .ilist, 
absorbed  in  his  studies  of  color  mimicry.  George  de  Forest 
Brush  and  Joseph  Lindon  Smith  are  other  wellknown  artists 
of  the  colony.  On  the  latter's  estate,  near  the  border  of 
the  town,  is  the  Teatro  Bambino,  a  small  outdoor  theater, 

(704) 


R.  40.     NASHUA  TO   KEENE  705 

after  an  Italian  model.  Among  those  who  give  intellectual 
tone  to  the  place  are  Professors  Richard  Burton  and  Albert 
Bushnell  Hart.  The  estate  of  Franklin  MacVeagh,  former 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  is  on  a  spur  of  hills  extending 
eastward  from  Mt.  Monadnock.  The  drive  through  these 
grounds  together  with  the  wonderful  views  of  Mt.  Monadnock 
are  the  features  of  the  place.  Dublin  is  the  supposed  locale 
of  much  of  Mr.  Churchill's  novel  "Mr.  Crewe's  Career." 
"Mt.  Sawanec"  of  the  novel  is  undoubtedly  Monadnock  in 
position  although  in  spirit  it  recalls  Ascutney,  with  which 
Mr.  Churchill  was  more  imbued. 

The  first  farm  here  was  occupied  in  1752.  Most  of  the  early  set- 
tlers came  from  Sherborn,  Natick,  Medfield,  and  other  towns  in  the 
vicinity  of  Boston.  Theodore  Parker  visited  here  in  1855  and  wrote 
to  a  friend:  "Here  I  am  rusticating  in  one  of  the  nicest  towns  in  New 
Hampshire  or  New  England.  .  .  .  No  rum  in  town,  excellent  schools." 
From  this  time  on,  however,  the  place  declined.  In  1870  farms  could 
be  purchased  for  $2000  which  today  are  worth  more  than  $20,000, 
the  result  of  the  advent  of  the  summer  visitor.  A  few  summer  board- 
ers arrived  here  as  early  as  1840,  but  people  began  to  purchase  estates 
here  about  forty  years  ago.  General  Caspar  Crowninshield  of  Boston 
did  much  to  make  it  fashionable. 

Among  those  who  helped  to  make  the  community  were  Professor 
Lewis  B.  Monroe,  Henry  Copley  Greene,  and  Thomas  Wentworth 
Higginson,  who  in  1880  built  his  cottage,  Glimpsewood,  near  the  lake. 

The  route  continues   past   Dublin   Lake  and  the  northern 
base  of  Monadnock,  joining  Route  33  (p  597)  at  MARLBORO 
(44.0),  following  it  to 
49.0     KEENE  (R.  33,  p  597). 


R.  41.     BRATTLEBORO  to  BENNINGTON.    42.0  m. 

This  route  traverses  the  southern  part  of  the  State  from 
east  to  west,  crossing  the  Green  Mountains  at  a  maximum 
altitude  of  2324  feet,  near  Searsburg.  The  route  is  a  trunk 
line  with  good  gravel  and  dirt  surfaces  most  of  the  way  with 
a  maximum  gradient  of  10  per  cent. 

At  Brattleboro  Town  Hall  the  route  turns  left  on  High  St. 
up  the  valley  of  Whetstone  Brook  to  West  Brattleboro  (2.5) 
and  takes  the  left  fork  beyond  the  small  bridge  in  the  village 
enter  and  the  right  fork  one  mile  further  on.  Climbing  up 
the  valley  between  the  abrupt  heights  of  Round  Mountain 
(1508  ft)  on  the  north  and  Ginseng  Hill  (1556  ft)  on  the  south, 
the  road  ascends  1300  feet  in  the  next  eight  miles,  through 
wooded  country.  At  the  crest  of  Ames  Hill  (8.0)  there  is  a 
fine  view,  with  South  Pond  to  the  left. 

10.0    MARLBORO.      Alt   1736  ft.     Pop    (twp)  442.     Windham   Co. 

Settled  1763.  Veins  of  soapstone  and  some  asbestos. 
Continuing  up  and  down  hill,  at  West  Marlboro  (13.0) 
the  route  follows  the  right  fork,  and  then  goes  straight  through 
the  crossroads  half  a  mile  beyond,  crossing  Hogback  Moun- 
tain (2347  ft),  from  which  there  is  an  unusual  southern  view 
toward  Hoosac  Mountain  and  Greylock.  As  the  highway 
descends,  crossing  the  town  line  between  Marlboro  and  Wil- 
mington, Ray  Pond,  also  called  Lake  Raponda,  lies  on  the 
right.  At  the  fork  (15.5)  the  route  turns  left  through  East 
Wilmington  and  at  the  three  corners  (17.5)  bears  right. 

19.5  WILMINGTON.  Alt  1548  ft.  Pop  (twp)  430.  Windham  Co. 
Settled  1765.  Mfg.  lumber  and  lumber  products. 

The  Forest  and  Stream  Club,  composed  of  business  men 
from  the  large  cities,  has  its  club  house  on  a  commanding  site 
among  these  hills.  In  Whitingham  township,  to  the  south,  is 
Sadawga  Pond,  with  a  fifty-acre  floating  island.  Brigham 
Young,  the  Mormon  prophet,  was  a  native  of  that  town. 

Proceeding  straight  through  the  village  the  road  follows 
the  north  branch  of  the  Deerfield  river,  joining  the  main 
stream  two  miles  further  on.  On  the  right  is  the  even  slope 
of  Haystack  Mountain  (3462  ft).  A  mile  and  a  quarter 
beyond  the  confluence  is  the  hilly  township  of  Searsburg  and 
the  boundary  between  Windham  and  Bennington  counties. 

25.5     SEARSBURG.     Alt  1760  ft.     Pop  (twp)  142.     Bennington  Co. 

Settled  1812.     Mfg.  lumber. 

The  Deerfield  river  here,  as  lower  down,  offers  good  oppor- 
tunities for  hydro-electric  plants.  In  ite  course  of  72  miles  it 
falls  2 200  feet.  A  few  miles  north,  in  Somerset,  the  New 
England  Power  Company  has  built  the  largest  hydraulic  fill 

(706) 


R.  41.   BRATTLEBORO  TO  BENNINGTON  707 

earth  dam  in  New  England, — 2100  feet  long,  106  feet  high, 
containing  900,000  cubic  yards,  and  impounding  2,500,000 
cubic  feet  of  water  in  a  lake  of  1800  acres. 

The  route  takes  the  left  fork,  climbing  away  from  the  river. 
At  the  top  of  the  hill  (2324  ft)  it  keeps  straight  ahead,  descend- 
ing past  Billings  Pond  and  Big  Pond,  the  chief  source  of  the 
Walloomsac  river  and  Prospect  Mountain  (2690  ft)  into 

37.0  WOODFORD.  Alt  2215  ft.  Pop  (twp)  187.  Bennington  Co 
Settled  1779.  Mfg.  lumber. 

This  like  Searsburg  is  a  mountain  town  with  lumbering 
interests.  Several  branches  of  the  Walloomsac  river  rise  in 
the  hills  and  furnish  good  trout  fishing  as  well  as  some  water- 
power.  The  view  from  Prospect  Mountain  is  highly  praised. 
A  century  ago  local  iron  was  forged,  into  anchors. 

From  here  to  Bennington  there  are  a  series  of  attractive 
vistas  up  the  valleys  of  the  brooks  that  flow  into  the  Wal- 
loomsac, whose  course  the  road  follows.  On  the  right  below 
Woodford  Village  is  Maple  Hill  (2774  ft)  and  below  on  the 
left  are  the  Elbow  (2587  ft)  and  Harmon  Hill  (2520  ft).  The 
road  meets  Route  5  at 

42.0     BENNINGTON  (R.  S,  p  257). 


R.  42.     PORTSMOUTH    to   the  WHITE    MOUN- 
TAINS and  COLEBROOK.  172.5  m. 

Via  DOVER,  OSSIPEE,  CHOCORUA,  NORTH  CONWAY,  and 
GORHAM. 

This  is  the  principal  Trunk  Line  to  the  White  Mountains, 
following  the  East  Side  New  Hampshire  State  Highway, 
locally  known  as  the  "East  Side  Boulevard,"  which  is  marked 
by  yellow  bands,  with  black  border,  on  telegraph  poles  and 
fence  posts  on  either  side  of  each  intersecting  road. 

The  route  runs  along  the  beautiful  Piscataqua  to  Dover 
Point,  through  the  ancient  town  of  Dover,  now  a  textile  mill 
center,  to  Ossipee.  From  West  Ossipee,  a  State  Road  with 
red  markers  leads  westward  to  Lake  Winnepesaukee  and  Route 
34,  the  Merrimack  Valley  Road.  Chocorua  and  the  surround- 
ing country  is  the  center  of  a  summer  community  in  which 
intellect  figures  larger  than  fashion.  The  road  commands 
beautiful  views  over  Lake  Chocorua  and  of  Mt.  Chocorua, 
the  most  alpine  of  all  New  England  peaks.  Thence  it  follows 
the  upper  valley  of  the  Saco  through  its  beautiful  intervales. 
Route  50  here  leads  through  Crawford  Notch  to  Bretton 
Woods.  The  route  continues  northward  through  Pinkham 
Notch  and  Gorham,  crossing  Route  51,  and  leading  to  Cole- 
brook  and  the  upper  Connecticut  valley. 

From  Market  Square,  Portsmouth,  the  route  runs  south 
on  Congress  St.  and  turning  right  on  Vaughn  St.  crosses  R.R. 
and  the  causeway  over  the  mouth  of  North  Mill  Pond,  in 
general  paralleling  the  Fiscataqua. 

Note.  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  about  five  miles 
above  Kittery  is  Greenacre,  formerly  the  summer  home  of  Sarah 
L.  Farmer,  who,  inspired  by  the  first  Congress  of  Religion  at 
Chicago  in  1893,  dedicated  it  to  the  service  of  humanity. 
From  that  time  till  recently  it  has  been  an  open  forum  for 
radical  thinkers.  Religious  leaders,  Brahmin,  Mohammedan, 
Buddhist,  Judaic,  and  even  Christian,  have  met  here  to  dis- 
cuss under  a  great  pine  tree  ethical  and  social  problems,  child 
welfare  and  penal  and  settlement  work.  Among  the  speak- 
ers have  been  Vivikananda,  Dhamapala,  Rabbi  Fleischer, 
Edward  Everett  Hale,  Ralph  Waldo  Trine,  Joe  Jefferson,  and 
Emma  Thursby.  Recently  it  has  been  made  famous  by  a 
division  of  those  interested  into  two  antagonistic  groups  whose 
strife  went  so  far  as  to  put  the  founder  in  an  insane  asylum, 
and  has  filled  the  newspapers  with  columns  of  exciting  copy. 
The  Bahaists,  though  professedly  lovers  of  peace,  proved  the 
doughtiest  fighters  and  gained  complete  control.  In  "A  Tale 
of  the  West  and  East,"  L.  F.  Strauss  gives  a  full  description 
of  the  colony  and  its  factional  fights. 

(708) 


R.  42.  PORTSMOUTH,  WHITE  MTS.,  COLEBROOK       709 

Just  beyond  in  Eliot,  Sidney  Lanier,  son  of  the  Southern 
poet,  and  his  wife  maintain  an  interesting  year-round,  open-air, 
close-to-nature  type  of  school.  Here,  too,  of  late  a  summer 
school  in  English  folk  dancing  has  been  maintained  by  Cecil  J. 
Sharp  under  the  auspices  of  Professor  George  Pierce  Baker  of 
Harvard  and  Mrs.  James  J.  Storrow. 

At  the  turn  of  the  road,  just  before  leaving  the  toll  bridge 
(15  cents),  a  short  distance  to  the  left  is  Newington  Church 
(1728),  the  oldest  meeting  house  in  New  Hampshire.  The 
mouth  of  Great  Bay  is  crossed  by  a  long  pile  toll  bridge.  The 
toll  gate  at  the  south  end  is  on  what  has  been  known  since 
1636  as  Bloody  Point.  It  was  here  that  the  leaders  of  the 
Dover  settlement  to  the  north  and  the  Strawberry  Bank 
settlement  entered  into  a  heated  dispute  about  their  boundary 
line,  but  as  a  matter  of  fact  no  blood  was  spilled.  From  the 
bridge  to  the  left  is  Fox  Point,  and  beyond,  Great  Bay  extends 
southward  for  seven  miles. 

Dover  Point  (5.0),  at  the  further  end  of  the  bridge,  was  the 
site  of  the  first  settlement  of  the  company  led  by  Edward 
Hilton  in  the  spring  of  1623.  The  present  Hilton  Hall,  a 
modern  structure,  stands  on  the  site  of  the  first  house.  Mr. 
Kennard's  beautiful  Colonial  mansion  on  the  hill  south  of  the 
road  is  a  remodeled  house  over  two  hundred  years  old.  To 
the  left  of  the  road  is  Pomeroy  Cove,  where  the  first  settlers 
landed.  A  mile  above  Dover  Point  on  the  State  Road  is  the 
Bound  Oak,  over  three  hundred  years  o  d. 

The  Highway  passes  over  Huckleberry  Hill  where  is  now 
Riverview  Hall,  near  the  site  where  Captain  Thomas  Wiggin's 
colonists  commenced  their  settlement  in  1633.  A  bronze 
tablet  on  the  west  side  of  the  road  marks  the  site  of  an  early 
meeting  house.  This  region,  known  as  Dover  Neck,  was  the 
chief  center  until  the  development  of  waterpowers  above. 

Approaching  modern  Dover,  on  the  right  is  Middlebrook 
Farm,  owned  and  managed  by  Miss  Elizabeth  C.  Sawyer, 
a  daughter  of  the  late  Governor.  It  has  been  in  her  family 
for  about  250  years.  Beyond  on  the  right  is  Pine  Hill  Ceme- 
tery, one  of  the  largest  in  New  Hampshire. 

11.0     DOVER.     Alt  77    ft.     Pop  13,247;    one  fourth    foreign-born. 

County-seat  of  Strafford  Co.     Settled  1623.     Indian  name 

Cochecho.     Mfg.   cotton,    leather    belting,    woolens,    shoes, 

and  machinery.     Value  of  Product,  $6,000,000. 

Dover  is  a  manufacturing  and  mill  town  at  the  falls  of  the 

Cocheco  and  Bellamy  rivers.     The  present  city  dates  chiefly 

from  the  development  of   the  waterpower,  greatly  stimulated 

by  the  industrial  awakening  caused  by  the  embargo  of  the 

War  of  1812.    The  Dover  Cotton  Factory  was  established  in 


710  DOVER— ROCHESTER 

1815.  The  Sawyer  Woolen  Mills,  now  a  branch  of  the  Ameri- 
can Woolen  Company,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  town, 
utilize  the  waterpower  of  the  Bellamy  river.  They  were 
established  in  1824  by  one  of  the  Sawyer  family,  which  has 
long  been  prominent  in  this  locality.  There  are  today  five 
cotton  mills  owned  by  the  Pacific  Mills  of  Lawrence. 

Dover  is  an  unattractive  city  with  irregular  streets.  The 
most  conspicuous  building  in  the  town  is  that  of  the  Straff ord 
Savings  Bank,  the  oldest  institution  of  its  kind  in  the  State. 
In  the  old  Court  House  (1789)  to  the  right  of  Central  Ave., 
now  debased  to  other  uses,  Daniel  Webster  held  forth  when  at 
the  Strafford  Court.  Beyond  Tuttle  Square  and  east  of  the 
First  Parish  Church  (1829)  is  the  old  Dover  Hotel  (1741), 
used  as  a  tavern  until  1850  but  now  a  tenement.  There  are 
many  historic  sites  in  Dover  and  a  considerable  number  of 
ancient  houses.  The  oldest  is  the  William  Dam  garrison 
house  (1676).  Silver  Street,  to  the  left,  has  several  old  houses, 
among  them  that  of  Dr.  Ezra  Green,  who  was  a  surgeon  on 
the  "Ranger"  with  Paul  Jones  and  lived  to  be  a  centenarian. 

Garrison  Hill  (200  ft),  in  the  northern  part  of  the  town, 
commands  a  fine  view.  There  is  an  observatory  on  the  top. 
At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  Ham  or  Varney  house  (1696).  At 
that  time  there  were  not  enough  men  in  Dover  to  raise  the 
frame,  and  help  was  summoned  from  Portsmouth. 

Dover  is  the  oldest  settlement  in  the  State.  In  1623  Edward  Hilton 
established  a  colony  at  Dover  Point.  Ten  years  later,  a  colony  of 
Puritans  settled  at  Dover  Neck,  a  mile  above  the  Point;  it  was  for  a 
'  century  the  business  center.  These  Puritans  were  most  zealous  in 
maintaining  their  orthodoxy.  Parson  Raynor  especially  distinguished 
himself  in  his  determination  to  "brook  no  Quaker"  in  the  community 
One  Elizabeth  Hooton,  a  Quaker  about  sixty  years  of  age,  was  in  1661 
seized  and  kept  in  the  stocks  for  four  days  in  the  dead  of  winter.  The 
following  year  three  women  landed  at  Dover  and  began  preaching 
their  Quaker  doctrines  at  the  Inn.  Mr.  Raynor,  righteously  enraged, 
instigated  and  assisted  the  magistrate  in  drawing  the  following  warrant: 

"To  the  Constables  of  Dover,  Hampton,  Salisbury,  Newbury, 
Rowley,  Ipswich,  Wenham,  Linn,  Boston,  Roxbury,  Dedham,  and 
until  these  vagabond  Quakers  are  carried  out  of  this  jurisdiction. 
You  and  every  one  of  you  are  required,  in  the  King's  Majesty's  name, 
to  take  these  vagabond  Quakers,  Anne  Coleman,  Mary  Tomkins  and 
Alice  Ambrose,  and  make  them  fast  to  the  cart's  tail,  and  driving  the 
cart  through  your  several  towns,  to  whip  them  on  their  backs,  not 
exceeding  ten  stripes  apiece  on  each  of  them  in  each  town,  and  so  to 
convey  them  from  constable  to  constable,  till  they  come  out  of  this 
jurisdiction,  as  you  will  answer  it  at  your  peril:  and  this  shall  be  your 
warrant. 

Per  me  RICHARD  WALDEN. 

At  Dover,  dated  December  the  22d,  1662." 

It  was  dead  of  winter,  the  distance  to  be  walked  was  eighty  miles, 
and  the  lashes  were  given  with  a  whip  whose  knotted  thongs  cut  to 
the  bone.  "So,  in  a  very  cold  day,  your  deputy,  Walden,  caused 
these  women  to  be  stripp'd  naked  from  the  middle  upward,  and  tyed 


R.  42.     PORTSMOUTH,  WHITE  MTS.,  COLEBROOK  711 

to  a  cart,  and  after  a  while  cruelly  whipp'd  them,  whilst  the  priest 
stood  and  looked,  and  laughed  at  it.  ...  They  went  with  the  execu- 
tioner to  Hampton,  and  through  dirt  and  snow  at  Salisbury,  halfway 
the  leg  deep,  the  constable  forced  them  after  the  cart's  tayl  at  which 
he  whipp'd  them." 

Dover  suffered  severely  from  Indian  attacks  though  strongly  forti- 
fied by  garrison  houses.  The  site  of  the  old  meeting  house  with  an 
outline  of  the  old  fortification  halfway  between  the  Point  and  the 
present  Dover  is  marked  by  a  tablet.  In  an  Indian  attack  of  June, 
i68g,  most  of  the  houses  were  burned  and  a  good  many  of  the  people 
carried  into  captivity. 

Leaving  Dover,  the  State  Road  at  the  top  of  Gage's  Hill 
passes  on  the  left  the  Granite  State  Trotting  Park,  formerly  the 
property  of  the  Hon.  Frank  Jones,  the  wellknown  brewer, 
and  now  owned  by  Walter  Cox  for  his  training  stable.  Just 
across  Salmon  Falls  River  in  Berwick  is  Pine  Hill,  the  scene 
of  Sarah  Orne  Jewett's  "Tory  Lover." 

16.0  SOMERSWORTH.  Alt  180  ft  (R.R.).  Pop  (twp)  6704. 
Settled  1623.  Mfg.  cotton  cloth,  woolen  blankets. 

This  busy  little  city  is  located  on  Salmon  Falls  River,  which 
furnishes  good  waterpower  for  its  industries.  The  cotton 
mills  employ  about  3000  hands,  or  one  half  of  the  population. 

Originally  part  of  Dover,  it  was  organized  as  a  parish  in  1729  and 
incorporated  as  a  town  in  1754.  The  first  company  to  develop  the 
waterpower  was  formed  in  1821  and  immediately  set  about  the  devel- 
opment of  the  mills. 

Leaving  Somersworth,  the  State  Road,  with  yellow  markers, 
passes  Cole's  Pond  on  the  right.  Before  reaching  Rochester, 
the  route  ascends  a  long  hill  from  the  top  of  which  there  is  a 
splendid  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  On  a  clear  day  the 
White  Mountains  are  visible  to  the  north.  To  the  southeast 
is  Mt.  Agamenticus  at  York,  and  to  the  left  of  the  Observatory 
on  Garrison  Hill  is  Dover.  To  its  right  are  the  Pawtuccaway 
hills  in  Nottingham. 

22.0  ROCHESTER.  Alt  229  ft  (R.R.).  Pop  8868.  Strafford  Co. 
Settled  1728.  Mfg.  woolens,  shoes,  bricks,  and  boxes. 

This  is  an  important  little  industrial  city  and  railroad  center 
on  the  falls  of  the  Cocheco,  at  its  junction  with  Salmon  Falls 
River.  The  Rochester  Fair  held  annually  at  Cold  Spring  Park 
draws  large  crowds. 

The  town  includes  three  villages:  North  Rochester  and. 
East  Rochester  on  Salmon  Falls  River,  with  the  busy  woolen 
mills  of  the  Cocheco  Mfg.  Company;  Gonic  on  the  Cocheco; 
and  the  city  proper.  Gonic  is  the  contraction  of  the  Indian 
word  Squamagonic,  "a  place  of  clay  and  water."  This 
village,  south  of  the  city,  is  a  great  brick-making  center,  the 
output  of  the  yards  being  second  only  to  Boston's  in  all  New 
England;  the  Kiesel  Fire  Brick  Company  is  situated  here. 


712  ROCHESTER— CHOCORUA 

The  large  Gonic  Mills,  founded  in  1838,  are  situated  at  the 
Squamagonic  falls,  mentioned  by  Whittier.  Rochester  itself 
is  essentially  a  shoe  town,  and  the  E.  G.  and  E.  Wallace  con- 
cern, founded  half  a  century  ago,  is  the  leading  industrial 
plant  of  the  city.  The  town  was  named  for  the  Earl  of  Roches- 
ter and  was  the  scene  of  numerous  Indian  raids. 

From  Rochester  to  the  Ossipee  region,  the  route  traverses 
a  rather  monotonous  upland  region.  It  leaves  Rochester  by 
Wakefield  St.,  passing  over  R.R.,  and  leads  straight  through 
the  triple  fork,  crossing  R.R.  again  and  following  the  yellow 
markers  through  North  Rochester  (27.5),  a  riverside  village, 
the  home  of  Governor  Spaulding.  Salmon  Falls  River  on  the 
right  is  the  boundary  between  New  Hampshire  and  Maine. 

30.5  MILTON.  Alt  440  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1545.  Strafford  Co.  Mfg. 
shoes,  rivets,  and  leatherboard. 

Milton  is  a  quiet  farming  town  on  the  Salmon  Falls  river. 
There  are  several  large  ice  plants  on  the  Milton  ponds  to  the 
right,  past  which  the  route  leads  over  a  ridge  from  which 
Mt.  Teneriffe  (1049  ft)  is  seen  to  the  left. 

Passing  through  the  hamlet  of  UNION  (36.5),  the  route  skirts 
the  base  of  the  Middleton  mountains  to  the  left  and  passes 
Lovell  Lake  on  the  right.  The  road  leads  by  Sanbornville 
railroad  station  (41.0),  and  then  climbs  a  hill  from  whose 
summit  are  seen  the  mountains  of  the  Ossipee  range  ahead 
and  a  chain  of  lakes  in  the  foreground  to  the  right.  At  the 
village  of  WAKEFIELD  (42.0),  the  route  follows  the  yellow 
markers  to  the  left  and  ascends  a  ridge  to  an  elevation  of 
about  1000  feet.  To  the  west  are  the  Belknap  Mountains  at 
Lake  Winnepesaukee,  and  ahead  the  Sandwich  Mountains 
with  Chocorua,  and  the  higher  White  Mountain  peaks  beyond. 

Just  beyond  the  little  hamlet  of  North  Wakefield  (47.0) 
there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains  about  Ossipee  Lake  and 
the  ranges  to  the  north. 

52.0  OSSIPEE.  Alt  622  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1354.  Shire  town  of  Car- 
roll Co.  Mfg.  lumber  products. 

This  upland  village  is  on  the  edge  of  'vacation  land.'  The 
lake  and  mountains  whose  name  it  bears  lie  just  to  the  north, 
while  ten  miles  down  the  west  road  is  WOLFEBORO  on  the  east 
shore  of  Winnepesaukee  (p  615).  About  a  mile  and  a  half 
beyond,  on  the  right,  is  Duncan  Lake,  noted  for  its  bass  and 
often  visited  by  President  Cleveland. 

CENTER  OSSIPEE  (57.5)  is  a  village  on  the  southern  shore 
of  the  lake,  with  the  bold  outline  of  Green  Mountain  four 
miles  to  the  east  and  the  clustering  Ossipee  Mountains  rather 
further  away  on  the  west. 

At  the  fork  in  the  village  the  route  bears  left  with  yellow 


R.  42.     PORTSMOUTH,  WHITE   MTS.,  COLEBROOK  713 

markers.  The  right  fork  leads  along  the  south  shore  of  the 
lake  to  Loon  Lake  and  the  village  of  Freedom.  The  road 
now  runs  parallel  with  the  shore  of  Ossipee  Lake.  To  the 
left  are  the  Ossipee  and  Sandwich  Mountains  with  Chocorua 
(3540  ft)  to  the  north,  as  the  eastern  flanksman  of  the  latter. 
Lake  Ossipee  is  twenty  miles  in  circumference.  Its  name,  from 
the  Indian  word  for  "stony  river,"  refers  to  its  outlet,  the 
Ossipee.  Camp  Fessenden  (p  800)  and  Camp  Wellesley,  for 
boys,  have  made  this  charming  spot  their  home. 

The  road  crosses  Lovells  kiver,  which  flows  into  the  lake 
past  a  large  Indian  mound  from  which  skeletons  and  other 
relics  have  been  taken.  In  the  same  field  nearer  the  lake  are 
the  remains  of  Lovewell's  fort,  built  in  the  spring  of  1725  and 
abandoned  after  Captain  Lovewell's  defeat  at  Fryeburg  (p  745). 
This  is  the  scene  of  Whittier's  "The  Grave  by  the  Lake": 
"Where  the  Great  Lake's  sunny  smiles 

Dimple  round  its  hundred  isles, 

And  the  mountain's  granite  ledge 

Cleaves  the  water  like  a  wedge, 

Ringed  about  with  smooth,  gray  stones, 

Rest  the  giant's  mighty  bones." 

To  the  left  is  Shaw  Mountain  (2950  ft),  the  nearest  of  the 
Ossipee  group,  on  whose  slopes  is  the  Ossipee  Mountain  Park, 
developed  by  Thomas  G.  Plant,  the  shoe  manufacturer. 

Crossing  R.R.  at  Lakewood  Station,  the  route  leads  on  to 
WEST  OSSIPEE  (63.7),  another  pleasant  village  frequented  by 
summer  folk.  The  Ossipee  Mountains  are  now  to  the  south, 
with  Bearcamp  and  Mt.  Whittier  in  the  foreground.  At 
their  bases  flows  Bearcamp  River.  Whittier  spent  many 
summers  at  a  house  formerly  on  the  knoll  to  the  left  opposite 
the  garages  in  West  Ossipee.  It  was  of  this  stream  and  of 
Chocorua  that  he  wrote  in  "A  Mystery": 

'"The  river  hemmed  with  leaning  trees 

Wound  through  its  meadows  green; 

A  low,  blue  line  of  mountains  showed 

The  open  pines  between. 
"One  sharp,  tall  peak  above  them  all 

Clear  into  sunlight  sprang: 
I  saw  the  river  of  my  dreams, 
The  mountains  that  I  sang!" 

Note.  The  road  to  the  left,  at  West  Ossipee,  with  red 
markers,  leads  to  Moultonboro,  Lake  Winnepesaukee,  and  Mer- 
edith (p  616).  State  work  will  be  finished  about  1918. 

The  main  route  follows  the  yellow  markings  on  the  telephone 
poles  past  Moore's  Pond  into 
68.0     CHOCORUA.     Pop  (Tamworth  twp)  993.     Carroll  Co. 

This  little  crossroads  village  is  the  center  of  a  summer  literary 
colony,  the  pioneers  of  which  were  William  James,  Josiah 


714  CHOCORUA— NORTH   CONWAY 

Royce,  and  Frank  Bolles.  Four  miles  to  the  west  is  Tarn- 
worth,  where  Grover  Cleveland  used  to  pass  the  summer, 
and  where  Mrs.  Thomas  J.  Preston,  formerly  Mrs.  Grover 
Cleveland,  still  makes  her  summer  home.  Entrance  to  the 
Cleveland  estate  is  marked  by  the  Cleveland. Memorial  Wall. 
On  the  right  side  of  the  road  leading  to  the  estate,  and  half  a 
mile  from  Tamworth  Village,  is  a  monument  inscribed  with  the 
names  of  ministers  who  in  the  early  days  were  ordained  on 
the  large  boulder  nearby,  "the  Coronation  Rock."  There  are 
many  picturesque  walks  through  Tamworth,  Sandwich,  and 
Wonalancet,  most  of  them  marked  by  blue  'blazes.' 

MT.  CHOCORUA  (3540  ft)  is  the  most  striking  and  picturesque 
of  all  the  mountains  of  New  England.  Its  great  blunt  cone 
of  granite  rises  in  solitary  grandeur  at  the  eastern  end  of  the 
Sandwich  range.  It  has  been  called  the  Matterhorn  of  America, 
and  no  other  mountain  has  so  impressed  our  poets  as  this. 
Says  Starr  King:  "How  rich  and  sonorous  that  word  Chocorua 
is!  ...  Does  not  its  rhythm  suggest  the  wilderness  and  lone- 
liness of  the  great  hills?  To  our  ears  it  always  brings  with  it 
the  sigh  of  the  winds  through  the  mountain  pines." 
"'For  health  comes  sparkling  in  the  streams 

From  cool  Chocorua  stealing: 
There's  iron  in  our  Northern  winds; 

Our  pines  are  trees  of  healing.'" 

(Whittier's  "Among  the  Hills.") 

The  Indian  "prophet  chief"  Chocorua  is  alleged  to  have  been  slain 
by  the  settler  Cornelius  CampbeM,  whose  family  he  had  murdered  as 
the  supposed  assassins  of  his  son.  Pursued,  he  retreated  to  the  top 
of  the  mountain  where,  further  retreat  being  impossible,  he  raised 
himself  to  his  full  height,  called  on  the  great  Manitou  to  curse  the 
land  in  its  occupancy  by  the  whites,  and  leaped  from  the  dizzy  height 
to  his  death  on  the  rocks  below.  But  Edward  Everett  Hale,  once  an 
assistant  on  the  staff  of  the  New  Hampshire  Geological  Survey,  records 
the  objection:  "In  our  day  we  spelled  it  'Corway,'  but  everything 
now  has  to  be  transformed  by  an  Indian  philology,  and  we  have  in- 
vented a  chief  whom  we  call  Chocorua  who  did  or  did  not  fling  himself 
from  the  peak  we  used  to  call  Corway." 

Following  the  yellow  markers,  the  route  skirts  the  shore  of 
Chocorua  Lake,  a  chain  of  three  lakelets,  from  which  the 
mountain  view  is  very  fine.  The  route  curves  gradually  to 
the  east  through  the  hamlets  of  Pequaket  and  lona,  sheering 
off  from  the  mountains.  Far  ahead  is  Mt.  Kearsarge  (2943  ft), 
or  Pequaket,  while  the  Ossipee  range  still  rises  southward. 

78.5     CONWAY.     Alt  466  ft.     Pop  (twp)  3413.     Carroll  Co. 

Conway,  sometimes  known  by  its  Indian  name  of  Cha- 
tauque,  is  a  quiet  mountain  village  on  the  rich  level  meadows 
of  the  Saco,  at  the  junction  of  the  Swift.  Moat  Mountain 
(3217  ft)  is  conspicuous  on  the  left,  and  Mt.  Kearsarge  (2943  ft) 
on  the  right.  To  the  right  also  are  the  granite  quarries  on 


R.  42.  PORTSMOUTH,  WHITE  MTS.,  COLEBROOK       715 

Rattlesnake  Mountain.  In  the  distance  is  the  Presidential 
Range.  This  is  a  good  center  for  excursions  to  nearby  points 
such  as  Chocorua,  Fryeburg,  and  North  Conway. 

The  road  leads  on  up  the  Saco,  entering  the  eastern  gateway 
to  the  White  Mountains.  As  Route  50  (p  746)  enters  on  the 
right  from  Portland  the  route  reaches 

84.0     NORTH  CONWAY.     Alt  517  ft  (R.R.).    Pop  (twp)  750. 

A  country  market  and  a  center  of  summer  touring,  North 
Conway  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  long  terrace  thirty  feet 
above  the  Saco  intervales  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
from  the  river.  The  Green  Hills  lie  to  the  east,  and  on 
the  west  across  the  Saco  valley  is  the  long  massive  Moat 
Mountain. 

To  the  northeast  is  Mt.  Kearsarge,  whose  name  is  now 
changed  by  the  Geological  Survey  to  Pequawket,  and  slightly 
north  of  northwest  lies  the  conine  summit  of  Mt.  Washington 
sixteen  miles  distant.  The  fertile  lowlands  of  the  Saco  valley 
stretch  away  to  the  south.  The  feature  of  the  North  Conway 
scenery  is  the  pastoral  loveliness  of  the  broad  Saco  intervales 
which  make  an  ideal  foreground  in  the  mountain  views. 
Harriet  Martineau  writes  of  North  Conway  in  autumn: 
"Never  did  valley  look  more  delicious;  shut  in  all  round  by 
mountains,  green  as  emerald,  flat  as  water,  and  clumped  and 
fringed  with  trees  tinted  with  softest  autumnal  hues." 

This  has  always  been  a  favorite  spot  with  artists.  George 
Inness,  the  landscape  painter,  spent  several  of  his  summers 
here  and  used  the  upper  story  of  the  old  Academy  building  as 
a  studio.  A  generation  ago  North  Conway  was  perhaps  the 
most  fashionable  and  popular  of  the  White  Mountain  resorts 
and  it  is  still  one  of  the  best  known  tourist  centers.  A  number 
of  beautiful  rides  may  be  taken  in  the  neighborhood,  and  the 
walks  vary  from  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Kearsarge  to  the  little 
jaunt  through  pretty  forest  scenery  to  Artists'  Falls. 

Northward  from  the  town,  at  the  base  of  Moat  Mountain, 
on  the  left,  are  Echo  Lake  and  White  Horse  Ledge,  and  further 
on  are  Cathedral  Ledge  with  its  rocky  Gothic  recess,  the  deep 
pools  of  Diana's  Baths,  and  Humphreys  Ledge.  Above  these  are 
the  Cathedral  Woods,  the  finest  virgin  area  of  white  pine  forest 
in  the  State.  A  large  section  of  this  westward  region  has 
been  opened  to  '  homesteaders '  by  the  Federal  Government . 

The  route  continues  through  the  hamlet  of  INTERVALE 
(86.0),  named  from  its  meadow  site  between  the  hills  The 
route  now  curves  westward  and  there  are  splendid  views. 

GLEN  (99.0;  544  ft)  is  a  wayside  hamlet  at  the  fork  of  the 
Saco  and  the  Ellis  rivers.  Westward  is  the  grand  Crawford 
Notch  on  Route  50  (p  747)  with  red  markers.  The  route  now 


716  NORTH    CON  WAY— BERLIN 

follows  the  Ellis  valley,  with  yellow  markers,  and  winds  up 
into  the  hills.  On  the  right  is  Thorn  Hill  (1440  ft)  and  a  mile 
up  the  valley  is  the  mill  village  of  Goodrich  Falls.  Ahead  is 
the  frowning  Iron  Bluff  (1305  ft),  at  the  foot  of  which  is 

93.0  JACKSON.  Alt  760  ft.  Pop  (twp)  452.  Carroll  Co.  Settled 
1778.  Mfg.  lumber. 

This  is  a  hamlet  of  little  summer  hotels  and  boarding  houses 
prettily  grouped  in  the  triangular  intervale  formed  by  the 
confluence  of  Wildcat  Brook,  which  tumbles  down  Jackson 
Falls  from  Black  Mountain  (2720  ft)  on  the  right,  and  Ellis 
River,  which  rounds  Eagle  Mountain  (1595  ft)  on  the  left. 
There  is  trout-fishing  in  many  of  the  brooks.  Tin  mines  have 
been  worked  in  the  hills.  The  chief  excursion  is  the  fine 
eight-mile  walk  through  the  glen  of  Wildcat  Brook  to  Carter 
Notch  between  the  flanks  of  Mt.  Wildcat  (4415  ft)  and  the 
Carter  Dome  (4860  ft). 

The  route  bears  left,  up  the  Ellis  river  ravine.  Glen  Ellis 
Fall  (99.5),  the  finest  cascade  in  the  mountains,  plunges  seventy 
feet  sheer.  It  is  reached  by  a  short  path.  The  Crystal 
Cascade  (101.0),  also  worth  visiting,  is  reached  by  a  path  to 
the  left.  From  the  top  of  the  cliff  one  sees  "the  slide  and 
foam  of  the  narrow  and  concentrated  cataract  to  where  it 
splashes  into  the  dark  green  pool,  a  hundred  feet  below." 
These  cascades  have  now  been  secured  by  the  Appalachian 
Mountain  Club  and  form  a  part  of  their  reservations. 

The  road  grows  steeper,  climbing  400  feet  in  the  last  mile 
and  a  half  before  reaching  Pinkham  Notch  (2018  ft),  the  sum- 
mit of  the  pass,  and  then  descends  the  valley  of  Peabody  River. 
On  the  right  is  Carter  Dome  (4860  ft),  while  the  Presidential 
Range,  with  Mts.  Washington,  Clay,  Jefferson,  Adams,  and 
Madison,  is  glimpsed  on  the  left  (p  748). 

At  Glen  House  (105.0),  a  small  hostelry  on  the  site  of  the 
large  hotel  burned  in  1894,  the  panorama  is  especially  grand. 
By  climbing  the  mountain  behind  the  hotel  for  a  slight  dis- 
tance, the  view  is  greatly  improved.  The  eastern  carriage 
road  up  Mt.  Washington  (n.o)  branches  to  the  left.  This 
famous  road  was  originally  built  1855-61,  a  splendid  piece  of 
engineering  which  bears  comparison  with  many  of  the  well- 
known  roads  of  the  Alps.  It  winds  on  long  galleries  and  curves 
with  an  average  grade  of  12  per  cent.  For  much  of  the  way 
it  passes  along  the  verge  of  the  Great  Gulf  and  commands  a 
series  of  superb  views.  This  point  is  a  favorite  center  for 
pedestrians  and  the  starting  point  for  many  walks  and  climbs. 

The  route  continues  down  the  Peabody  river's  wooded  glen 
with  fine  views  ahead  and  behind.  The  road  descends  820 
feet  from  this  point. 


R.  42.     PORTSMOUTH,   WHITE  MTS.,  COLEBROOK  717 

114.0  GORHAM.  Alt  812  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2155.  Coos  Co.  Set- 
tled 1768.  Mfg.  lumber,  pulp,  and  sulphite. 

Gorham,  a  beautiful  village  situated  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Androscoggin  and  the  Peabody  rivers,  is  the  northern  gate- 
way to  the  White  Mountains.  It  is  perhaps  the  most  con- 
venient point  from  which  to  reach  the  summit  of  Mt.  Wash- 
ington via  the  Glen  and  the  famous  carriage  road.  The  village 
is  the  headquarters  of  the  White  Mountains  National  Forest 
Service.  This  Forest  now  includes  all  the  important  peaks 
of  the  entire  region. 

To  the  northeast  lies  Mt.  Hayes  (2800  ft),  and  to  the  north- 
west, the  Pilot  Mountains.  In  the  southwest  foreground, 
Pine  Mountain  (2440  ft)  conceals  the  Presidential  Range,  which 
is  well  seen  from  adjacent  points.  The  road  to  the  left  leads 
to  Twin  Mountain  and  Jefferson  (p  751),  that  to  the  right,  to 
Bethel  and  Paris  (p  751). 

Starr  King  spent  several  seasons  here,  writing  the  greater 
part  of  his  book  "The  White  Hills,"  a  work  which  probably 
more  than  any  other  helped  to  open  the  eyes  of  Americans  to 
the  beauty  of  these  mountains.  He  says  of  Gorham:  "As  a 
general  thing,  Gorham  is  the  place  to  see  the  more  rugged 
sculpturing  and  the  Titanic  brawn  of  the  hills.  Turning  from 
North  Conway  ,to  the  Androscoggin  valley  is  somewhat  like 
turning  from  a  volume  of  Tennyson  to  the  pages  of  Carlyle." 
There  are  attractive  walks  to  Mt.  Hayes,  Mt.  Surprise,  etc. 

Originally  a  part  of  Shelburne  it  was  called  Shelburne  Addition  until 
it  was  incorporated  as  a  separate  town  in  1836,  and  named  in  honor 
of  Captain  Gorham,  who  was  in  the  Narragansett  fight.  The  early 
settlers  were  subjected  to  several  Indian  attacks.  Along  the  banks  of 
the  Androscoggin  ran  the  trail  of  the  Anasagunticooks,  among  the 
most  bloodthirsty  of  the  tribes  of  Maine,  and  until  the  fall  of  Quebec 
in  1759  it  was  the  trail  of  the  St.  Francis  Indians  on  their  raids  into 
the  New  England  settlements. 

The  route  continues  through  Gorham  and  turns  right,  up 
the  west  bank  of  the  Androscoggin. 

120.5     BERLIN.     Alt  1013  ft.     Pop  11,780.     Coos  Co. 

The  city  of  Berlin  lies  at  the  confluence  of  the  Androscoggin 
and  Dead  rivers.  The  erection  of  the  great  paper  mills  of 
the  International  Paper  Company  have  made  this  one  of  the 
thriving  centers  of  New  Hampshire.  The  great  feature  is  the 
falls  of  the  Androscoggin,  below  the  town.  The  river  de- 
scends 200  feet  in  one  mile  between  high  and  curving  walls  of 
dark  schist,  and  the  most  impressive  part  is  at  the  village. 
The  proximity  of  forests  of  spruce  and  pine  have  made  this 
a  great  paper-making  center  like  Rumford  Falls. 

The  route  continues  up  the  valley  on  the  left  bank  through 
Milan  (128.5;  1057  ft),  a  country  village  of  no  great  interest, 


718  BERLIN— COLEBROOK 

granted  to  Sir  William  Mayne  in  1771.  The  surrounding 
heights  afford  magnificent  views  of  the  Presidential  Range. 
All  the  way  up  the  valley  the  mountain  views  southward  are 
especially  fine.  The  road  winds  through  Dummer  to 

151.0    ERROL.     Pop  (twp)  211.     Coos  Co. 

The  village  is  situated  in  the  meadows  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Dixville  Gorge.  At  Errol  Dam  the  Androscoggin  has  its 
source  as  the  outlet  of  Lake  Umbagog.  This  is  the  western 
gateway  to  the  whole  chain  of  the  Rangeley  Lakes  (p  755). 

After  leaving  Errol  the  road  turns  left  and  enters  the  lower 
end  of  the  Dixville  Notch.  This  canyon,  cut  by  the  water 
through  prehistoric  ages,  is  one  of  the  wildest  and  most  impos- 
ing pieces  of  rock  and  mountain  scenery  on  the  Atlantic  side 
of  our  country. 

The  Balsams  (162.5;  2000  ft),  facing  the  shore  of  Gloriette 
Lake  at  the  mouth  of  t'he  Notch,  is  the  tourist  center.  Among 
the  points  of  interest  to  which  excursions  may  be  made  are 
Table  Rock,  or  Mt.  Gloriette,  the  master  peak  of  the  Dixville 
group,  a  rather  arduous  climb  with  the  reward  of  a  splendid 
view;  the  Ice  Cave;  Clear  Spring;  and  the  Flume.  On 
Panorama  Hill  there  is  a  fine  eighteen-hole  golf  course. 

The  Notch  lies  within  the  old  hunting  grounds  of  the  Abenaki 
Indians.  This  is  the  only  east  and  west  pass  across  the  State  north 
of  Groveton,  and  before  the  building  of  the  railroads  was  highly  impor- 
tant as  a  route  to  Portland,  through  which  Canadian  whiskey  was 
habitually  smuggled. 

The  township  of  Dixville,  which  according  to  the  last  census  was 
credited  with  a  population  of  twelve,  has  an  interesting  history. 
It  was  originally  granted  in  1805  to  Colonel  Timothy  Dix,  Jr.,  for 
$4500,  provided  thirty  settlers  should  be  secured  within  five  years, 
which  time  was  afterward  extended.  Dix's  death  in  the  War  of 
1812  prevented  the  carrying  out  of  the  contract,  and  Daniel  Webster, 
one  of  his  sureties,  took  possession.  This  accounts  for  the  name  of 
the  rock  face,  called  Webster  Profile,  one  of  the  cliffs  in  the  Notch. 
The  first  and  only  settler  till  about  1865  was  John  Whittemore,  who 
came  in  1812  as  agent  for  Webster.  He  lived  here  till  shortly  after 
the  death  of  his  wife  Betsy  in  December,  1815.  The  Notch  road 
was  never  kept  open  in  winter  then,  a  condition  that  existed  up  to 
about  1808,  and  his  wife's  body  was  kept  frozen  all  winter  and  buried 
in  the  spring  in  a  little  lone  yard  at  the  foot  of  the  Notch.  Whittemore 
moved  to  Colebrook,  and  upon  his  death  in  1846  was  buried  beside 
his  wife.  These  two  lonely  roadside  graves  with  their  crude  headstones 
can  still  be  visited,  though  almost  concealed  by  masses  of  vegetation. 

The  road  from  the  Notch  runs  on  either  side  of  Lake  Glo- 
riette, then  between  the  twin  lakes,  Abenaki  and  Coashauk, 
and  continues  down  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Mohawk 
through  a  charming  country  of  hillside  farms  to 
172.5     COLEBROOK  (p  365). 


R.  43.     PLYMOUTH,  N.H.,  to  SARATOGA.     170.5  m. 

This  cross-state  route,  a  link  of  the  'Ideal  Tour,'  passes 
Newfound  and  Sunapee  Lakes,  climbs  over  the  Green  Moun- 
tains by  the  picturesque  but  hilly  Peru  road  to  Manchester, 
and  thence  by  the  Battenkill  gorge  to  New  York  State,  the 
Hudson,  and  Saratoga.  State  roads  all  the  way,  mostly  gravel, 
with  some  macadam. 


R.  43  §  1.     Plymouth  to  Claremont.  66.5  m. 

The  route  crosses  the  watershed  between  the  Pemigewasset 
and  Connecticut  valleys,  passing  Newfound  Lake,  Mt.  Kear- 
sarge,  and  from  the  popular  resort  of  Sunapee  Lake  follows  the 
Sugar  river  valley.  This  section  is  a  New  Hampshire  State 
Highway,  marked  by  black  bands  with  white  borders  on  the 
poles  on  each  side  of  intersecting  roads. 

The  route  from  Plymouth  bears  west  over  a  hilly  farming 
country,  round  Plymouth  Mountain  and  southward  to 

8.8    EAST  HEBRON.     Alt  652  ft.     Pop  (twp)  213.     Grafton  Co. 

1'his  peaceful  hamlet  near  the  northern  end  of  Newfound 
Lake  is  in  the  midst  of  pleasant  farming  country. 

Hebron  is  a  pleasant  little  village  lying  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  to  the  west,  beyond  the  lake.  There  is  a  typical  New 
England  meeting  house  and  a  few  old  houses. 

The  route  to  Bridgewater  runs  along  the  eastern  shore  of 
the  lake,  over  the  Mayhew  Turnpike,  following  the  black 
markers.  The  old  brick  farmhouse  of  Abram  Hook,  one 
of  the  early  settlers,  has  been  transformed  into  Uplands,  the 
beautiful  summer  residence  of  E.  P.  Lindsay  of  Boston. 

The  old  Mayhew  Turnpike,  chartered  in  1803,  ran  from  West 
Plymouth  through  East  Hebron,  Bridgewater,  and  Bristol.  It  was 
the  main  route  between  northern  New  Hampshire  and  Vermont  and 
Boston.  Toll  gates  were  erected  at  various  points  and  toll  was  exacted 
for  each  mile  of  travel.  The  old  McClure  Tavern,  still  standing  near 
Camp  Mowglis,  formerly  the  East  Hebron  Post  Office,  was  one  of  the 
wellknown  hostelries  on  this  road. 

NEWFOUND  LAKE  is  considered  by  many  to  be  the  loveliest  of 
all  the  New  Hampshire  lakes.  It  is  over  seven  miles  long  with 
an  average  width  of  about  two  miles  and  is  the  fourth  in  size 
in  the  State,  Winnepesaukee,  Squam,  and  Sunapee  alone  ex- 
ceeding it.  On  the  western  shore  is  Sugar  Loaf  (1350  ft)  and 
further  back  are  the  Bear  Mountains  with  the  Crosby  Moun- 
tains beyond  to  the  north.  On  the  shores  of  Newfound  Lake 
are  -Camp  Pasquaney  for  boys  (p  800),  Camp  Mowglis  for 
small  boys,  and  Mrs.  Hassan's  Camp  for  little  girls. 

The  lake  was  unexpectedly  discovered  in  1751  by  Kendall  and 
Farwell,  who  were  surveying  the  western  boundaries  of  the  lands  ot 

(719) 


720  EAST   HEBRON— NEWPORT 

the  Masonian  proprietors.  The  Indians  called  the  lake  Pasquaney, 
and  in  recent  years  this  name  has  grown  in  favor,  although  it  has  not 
yet  succeeded  in  supplanting  the  somewhat  prosaic  later  title.  The 
redmen  lingered  about  this  region  for  a  long  while  after  the  settlers 
came,  and  in  1756  killed  and  scalped  two  trappers  near  Hebron.  From 
early  times  Pasquaney  has  been  celebrated  for  its  lake  trout,  and  it 
is  now  also  well  stocked  with  landlocked  and  Pacific  salmon. 

13.5     BRIDGEWATER.     Pop  (twp)  187.     Graf  ton  Co.     Settled  1766. 

Bridge  water  was  first  settled  by  Colonel  Thomas  Crawford 
on  the  site  of  the  Fletcher  farm  near  the  meeting  house  (1806). 
The  Bridgewater  hills  run  north  and  south  through  the  length 
of  this  township.  From  their  western  slopes  are  views  of  the 
Newfound  Lake  region,  and  from  the  eastern,  of  the  Pemige- 
wasset  valley  and  the  distant  White  Mountains.  The  route 
with  the  black  markers,  turns'  to  the  right  (17.5),  leaving  the 
town  of  Bristol  half  a  mile  to  the  left. 

BRISTOL.  Alt  358  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1478.  Grafton  Co.  Settled 
1788.  Mfg.  paper,  pulp,  crutches,  and  flannel. 

Bristol,  the  most  important  town  of  the  Newfound  Lake 
region,  lies  two  miles  south  of  the  lake.  Newfound  River,  the 
outlet  of  the  lake,  flows  through  the  town  and  empties  into  the 
Pemigewasset.  During  its  course  of  three  miles  this  stream 
falls  nearly  250  feet,  and  the  resulting  waterpower  has  been 
utilized  by  two  paper  mills,  two  pulp  mills,  a  large  woolen 
mill,  and  the  largest  crutch  manufactory  in  the  United  States, 
now  doing  a  war  business,  running  night  and  day. 

Two  miles  south  of  Bristol  are  the  Profile  Falls,  which  are 
reached  by  a  path  leading  from  the  old  excelsior  mill. 

This  land  was  a  part  of  the  Mason  grant  of  1629.  In  1753  it  was 
sold  and  given  the  name  of  New  Chester,  but  when  the  town  was 
incorporated  in  1819  it  was  called  Bristol.  The  first  settler  was 
Lieutenant  Benjamin  Emmons,  whose  homestead,  erected  in  1788,  the 
oldest  in  town,  is  still  standing  on  the  present  Dalton  farm,  three 
miles  from  the  town  on  the  road  to  New  Hampton. 

Following  the  black  markers  southward  through  a  placid 
farming  country,  the  route  runs  through  the  unimportant 
village  of  Danbury  (27.5),  passing  Ragged  Mountain  (2256  ft) 
on  the  left  and  heading  toward  the  imposing  bulk  of  Mt. 
Kearsarge  (2943  ft).  Beyond  the  hamlet  of  WEST  ANDOVER 
(33-5)  the  road  turns  west,  following  the  black  markers  through 
ELKINS  (39.0),  a  pretty  little  village  on  Pleasant  Lake. 

42.0  NEW  LONDON.  Alt  1200  ft.  Pop  (twp)  805.  Merrimack  Co. 
This  village  is  a  minor  summer  resort  on  the  edge  of  the 
Sunapee  region.  On  the  western  side  is  the  Granliden  at  the 
head  of  Gardner  Bay.  Two  miles  to  the  south  on  the  shore 
of  the  lake  is  Soo-Nipi  Park  and  Lodge,  a  hotel  and  cottage 
community,  established  by  Dr.  Quackenbos.  Continuing  past 
the  head  of  Lake  Sunapee,  the  road  swings  southward  at  the 


R.  43   §  I-     PLYMOUTH   TO   CLAREMONT  721 

hamlet  of  GEORGES  MILLS  (47.5),  which  in  recent  years  has 
developed  into  a  small  summer  resort.  To  the  north  is  the 
Royal  Arch,  or  Devil's  Den,  a  curious  cavern  at  the  top  of  a 
rough  cliff  path. 

LAKE  SUNAPEE  (alt  1103  ft),  ten  miles  long  and  varying  in 
width  from  one  and  a  half  to  three  miles,  is  the  third  largest 
lake  in  the  State.  In  the  last  two  decades  it  has  developed 
into  one  of  the  most  popular  playgrounds  and  centers  of 
summer  activities  in  New  Hampshire.  Its  shores  are  dotted 
with  numerous  cottages  and  camps  and  some  large  estates. 
High  on  the  eastern  slopes  overlooking  the  lake  is  the  estate 
of  the  late  John  Hay,  the  statesman  who  made  this  his  summer 
home  before  the  multitude  had  come.  Sunapee  Mountain 
(2683  ft)  rises  south  of  the  lake. 

The  local  tribe  of  Penacook  Indians  gave  the  lake  its  name,  which 
means  "wild  goose  water."  It  was  first  seen  by  a  white  man  in  1630, 
but  there  was  no  permanent  settlement  until  a  century  and  a  half  later. 
In  1876  Daniel  and  Frank  Woodsum,  lumber  merchants,  came  here  to 
investigate  claims  and  saw  the  possibility  of  transforming  the  region 
into  a  summer  resort.  They  placed  a  small  steamer  on  the  lake,  the 
inauguration  of  Sunapee  as  a  tourist  center.  The  Sunapee  trout,  a 
rare  species  native  to  the  lake,  and  several  other  species  of  trout, 
besides  landlocked  and  Chinook  salmon,  are  found  in  these  waters, 
stocked  by  the  State  Fish  Hatchery  on  Pike  Brook  in  Soo-Nipi  Park. 

The  road  climbs  between  the  hills  west  of  the  lake,  reaching 
a  height  of  1298  feet,  and  then  descending,  with  glimpses  of 
Granliden  and  its  largest  hotel  establishment  on  the  left  at 
the  head  of  Gardiner  Bay.  On  the  left  at  the  triple  fork  is 

51.0  SUNAPEE.  Alt  2683  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1071.  Sullivan  Co.  Mfg. 
pulp,  paper,  homes,  and  rakes. 

Sunapee  is  the  largest  town  on  the  lake  and  the  center  of 
the  more  pretentious  hotel  life.  At  Sunapee  Harbor  the  Sugar 
river  flows  out  of  the  lake  on  its  way  to  the  Connecticut, 
which  it  reaches  at  Claremont  (p  346).  During  its  course 
of  eighteen  miles  it  drops  800  feet  and  provides  valuable  water- 
power  for  a  considerable  number  of  mills.  There  are  several 
industries  here,  but  the  place  is  better  known  as  the  distribut- 
ing center  for  the  surrounding  resorts.  This  is  the  starting 
point  of  the  lake  steamers. 

The  road  from  Sunapee  to  Claremont,  with  black  markers, 
follows  the  course  of  the  Sugar  river,  passing  through  the 
hamlet  of  Guild  (54.0).  Sarah  J.  Hale,  author  of  "Mary  had 
a  Little  Lamb,"  was  born  in  this  vicinity. 

56.5     NEWPORT.     Alt  804  ft.     Pop  (twp)  3765.     Sullivan  Co.     Set- 
tled 1765.     Mfg.  woolens,  underwear,  shoes. 
Newport  is  a  prosperous-looking  country  town  situated  on 
the  uplands  rising  from  the  verdant  intervales  of  the  Sugar 
river  valley,   with   a  background  of   wooded   hills.     To   the 


722  NEWPORT— LONDONDERRY 

north  in  the  distance  is  Croydon  Mountain,  in  the  Blue  Moun- 
tain Forest  Park,  or  Corbin  Game  Preserve  (p  354). 

Main  Street  is  bordered  by  dignified  old  shade  trees  and 
contains  several  substantial  houses  of  a  century  ago.  The 
liberality  of  the  Richards  family  is  shown  in  the  Richards  High 
School  and  the  Richards  Free  Library. 

Belknap's  harness  store  dates  from  1819  and  has  continued 
in  the  family  ever  since.  Here  are  the  large  woolen  mills  of 
Dexter  Richards  &  Sons,  and  the  Peerless  Manufacturing  Com- 
pany (muslin  underwear),  organized  in  1887.  The  recent 
plant  of  the  Brampton  Woolen  Company,  which  makes  a 
specialty  of  women's  dress  goods,  takes  its  name  from  the 
"Brampton"  of  Winston  Churchill's  novel  "Coniston,"  sup- 
posed to  be  Newport. 

Route  ion  (p  336),  the  West  Side  Road,  a  State  Highway 
with  light  blue  markers,  crosses  the  route  here. 

The  route  continues  with  black  markers,  crossing  Route  10  at 

66.5     CLAREMONT  (R.10,p346). 

R.  43  §2.     Claremont,  N.H.,  to  Manchester,  Vt.  53.5  m. 

This  route  crosses  Vermont  by  way  of  the  Black  river  and 
Williams  river  valleys  and  the  Peru  section  of  the  Green 
Mountains.  Though  hilly,  attaining  a  height  of  1630  feet, 
the  road  is  mostly  good  gravel  and  the  scenery  is  excellent. 
A  Vermont  State  Road,  the  township  boundaries  are  marked 
by  sign  posts. 

The  route  leaves  Claremont  by  Pleasant  St.,  following 
Route  10  (p  339)  southward  through  North  Charlestown  to 
the  righthand  road  (8.5)  with  the  sign  "Springfield,  Vt." 
Following  this  across  the  toll  bridge  (15  cents)  over  the  Con- 
necticut river  and  entering  the  State  of  Vermont,  the  road 
continues  with  the  trolley  into 

14.5  SPRINGFIELD.  Alt  420  ft.  Pop  (twp)  4784.  Windsor  Co. 
Settled  1752.  Mfg.  machinery  and  shoddy. 

Springfield  is  a  busy  little  manufacturing  town,  uniquely 
situated  in  the  deep  narrow  valley  of  the  Black  river,  its  streets 
and  dwellings  climbing  the  slopes  to  the  levels  above.  The  river 
falls  no  feet  in  a  few  hundred  yards,  providing  waterpower 
for  numerous  mills.  During  the  last  decade  the  population 
has  increased  more  rapidly  than  that  of  any  other  town  in 
the  State  except  Barre,  largely  due  to  the  influx  of  foreign 
factory  workers,  Italians,  Poles,  and  Russians. 

The  Jones  &  Lamson  Machine  Company  leads  the  world  in 
the  manufacture  of  turret  lathes,  shipped  to  all  parts  of  the 
earth.  The  plant  normally  employs  450  men,  but  in  these 


R.  43   §   2.     CLAREMONT,  N.H.,  TO  MANCHESTER,  VT.        723 

war  times  the  industry  has  been  tremendously  stimulated. 
Another  important  industry  is  the  Fellows  Gear  Shaper  Com- 
pany, manufacturers  of  gear  cutting  machines,  which  has 
grown  with  the  increased  demand  for  automobiles.  The 
shoddy  mill  is  the  largest  in  the  world,  with  a  floor  area  of 
twelve  acres  and  a  capacity  for  10,000,000  pounds  a  year. 
Shoddy  is  an  invention  whereby  suits  at  bargain  prices  may  be 
made  from  old  clothing  which  by  successive  wearers  has  been 
reduced  to  useless  rags.  These  are  broken  up  by  machines 
and  the  short  fibers  mixed  with  Indian  cotton,  which  is  then 
woven  into  woolen  suitings  'all  wool  and  a  yard  wide.' 

John  Nott  is  supposed  to  have  built  the  first  log  hut  on  the  meadows 
here  in  1752.  He  was  probably  a  descendant  of  the  first  John  Nott 
of  Wethersfield,  who  begot  many  Notts,  but  these  uncertainties  of  the 
historians  may  perhaps  be  due  to  the  negativeness  of  Nott.  However, 
the  following  year  many  others  settled  here.  This  territory  was 
granted  by  Governor  Benning  Wentworth  to  a  company  of  Northamp- 
ton people  who  promptly  began  proceedings  to  eject  John  Nott.  But, 
judging  from  the  time  that  elapsed  before  the  actual  ejectment  as  given 
in  the  town  records,  the  proprietors  were  timid  or  John  was  Nott. 

Leaving  Springfield  by  Main  St.,  the  route  leads  westward 
away  from  Black  River,  bearing  left  downhill  for  nearly  a  mile 
and  then  right  at  the  next  fork  (15.5),  crossing  several  brooks 
and  then  bearing  left  after  crossing  a  wooden  bridge  (16.5). 
Passing  the  town  line  and  crossing  R.R.  the  route  enters 

23.0  CHESTER.  Alt  850  ft.  Pop  (twp}  666.  Windsor  Co.  Settled 
1764.  Mfg.  lumber  and  wood  products. 

Chester  is  a  dignified  old  village  on  the  Williams  river,  which 
furnishes  power  for  its  mills.  Its  principal  streets  have  double 
rows  of  elms  and  maples. 

From  here  the  road  parallels  the  Williams  river,  which  runs 
on  its  left,  while  on  the  right  are  the  slopes  of  Butternut  Hill 
and  Oak  Hill.  A  mile  and  a  half  beyond  the  town  line  be- 
tween Chester  and  Andover  the  highway  leads  through  the 
hamlet  of  Simonsville  (29.0)  and  thence  curves  southward 
across  the  line  of  Windham  County  and  climbs  a  steep  ascent. 
East  Hill  and  Bear  Hill  lie  to  the  southeast,  and  Glebe  Moun- 
tain (2944  ft)  to  the  south.  Crossing  the  line  of  Londonderry 
township  the  road  quickly  descends.  To  the  west  is  the 
undulating  mass  of  the  Green  Mountains.  On  the  right  is 
Lowell  Lake  (1290  ft),  in  which  there  is  good  fishing,  as  also 
in  the  neighboring  trout  streams.  Cobble  Hill  (1907  ft)  rises 
abruptly  to  the  north. 

37.0     LONDONDERRY.     Alt  1100  ft.     Pop  (twp)  962.     Windham  Co. 

Settled  1774. 

The  village  is  situated  in  a  sequestered  nook  near  the  head 
of  the  West  river.  Route  19  (p  449),  from  Brattleboro  and 
Massachusetts,  enters  from  the  south. 


724  LONDONDERRY— SARATOGA 

The  road  leads  straight  through  the  village,  crossing  two 
branches  of  West  River  and  then  taking  the  right  fork  of  the 
highway  uphill,  avoiding  the  right  fork  a  mile  beyond. 

The  route  becomes  even  more  hilly  and  wild  as  it  runs  on 
through  the  woodland.  After  crossing  the  boundary  of  Ben- 
nington  County  and  a  strip  of  Landgrove  township  with  its 
settlement  of  Landgrove  (39.5)  the  road  winds  up  to 

42.0    PERU.    Alt  1600  ft.    Pop  (twp)  242.    Bennington  Co.    Set.  1773. 

Peru  is  a  quaint  country  village  on  a  shelf  at  the  base  of 
Bromley  Mountain  (3260  ft).  The  old  meeting  house  is  inter- 
esting and  the  cobblestone  fireplace  in  the  exterior  of  the 
Bromley  Inn  attracts  attention  if  not  approval.  A  paddock 
contains  several  deer.  A  large  part  of  this  region  is  virgin  for- 
est deeded  to  the  State  as  a  forest  reserve  by  M.  J.  Hapgood. 

New  Hampshire  soldiers  in  1777  marching  to  join  the  Green 
Mountain  Boys  at  Bennington  cut  the  first  road  from  Peru 
to  Manchester  over  the  mountain.  This  road  was  later  im- 
proved and  made  into  a  turnpike.  The  State  has  desired  to 
purchase  this  property  and  abolish  the  toll,  but  the  price  was 
too  great.  Condemnation  proceedings  are  now  in  the  courts. 

A  road  from  Brattleboro,  Route  19  n  (p  449),  comes  in  from 
the  left  (46.5)  and  a  half  mile  further  on  is  the  apex  of  the 
climb  (48.5),  at  the  trampers'  Green  Mountain  Trail  (p  259), 
and  the  only  toll  gate  in  New  England  (50  cents).  To  the 
west,  as  the  road  drops  down  the  defile,  is  the  Battenkill  val- 
ley and  Mt.  Equinox  (3816  ft)  with  the  pretty  village  of 
Manchester  spread  along  the  meadows  at  its  foot. 

Bearing  right  at  the  crossroads  by  the  school  house  (50.5) 
the  road  leads  across  R.R.  and  through  MANCHESTER  DEPOT 
(51.5),  meeting  Route  5  at 

53.5     MANCHESTER  (R.  5,  p  262). 


R.  43  §  3.     Manchester,  Vt.,  to  Saratoga  Springs.         50.5  m. 

This  route  leads  up  the  gorge  of  the  Battenkill  river  and  over 
rolling  country  to  the  Hudson,  which  it  crosses  at  Schuylerville, 
following  the  Fish  Creek  valley  to  Saratoga  Springs.  The 
road  is  gravel  as  far  as  Greenwich  and  macadam  from  there  on. 

Following  Route  5  (p  262)  southward,  at  Arlington  Village 
Green  the  route  turns  right,  crossing  the  Battenkill  and  fol- 
lowing the  road  on  the  north  bank  between  Red  Mountain 
(2869  ft)  and  The  Ball  (2715  ft)  through  the  roadside  hamlet 
of  West  Arlington  (11.5)  opposite  Big  Spruce  Mountain  (2510 
ft).  Soon  afterward  the  road  passes  the  New  York  State 


R.  43   §  3.     MANCHESTER,  VT.,  TO  SARATOGA  SPRINGS      725 

line  and  crosses  the  river  four  miles  beyond,  bearing  away 
from  the  stream  along  the  eastern  edge  of  a  swampy  intervale 
leading  southward.  At  23.0  the  route  takes  the  second  turn 
on  the  right  into  Main  St. 

24.0  CAMBRIDGE.  Alt  471  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1528.  Washington  Co. 
Mfg.  foundry  products,  seeds,  and  agricultural  implements. 

Route  15  n  (p  401)  enters  here.  The  road  goes  straight 
through,  bearing  to  the  right  on  the  further  edge  of  the  village 
and  heading  through  the  hilly,  wooded  country  south  of  Mt. 
Coif  ax  (1270  ft). 

At  school  house  (27.0)  the  route  follows  the  right  fork  uphill. 
Some  miles  further  it  follows  a  brook  out  of  the  hills  and 
crosses  the  Battenkill  once  more  at 

32.0     GREENWICH.     Alt    380   ft.     Pop    (twp)    2314.     Washington 

Co.  Mfg.  paper,  skirts,  knit  goods,  and  foundry  products. 
At  the  bandstand  the  route  turns  left,  away  from  the  trolley, 
and  again  crosses  the  Battenkill,  which  here  flows  through  a 
cutting  eighty  feet  deep,  the  beginning  of  the  2oo-foot  gorge 
it  has  worn  for  itself  below  Middle  Falls,  half  a  mile  to  the 
right.  Beyond  the  bridge  the  road  bears  sharply  to  the  left 
and  to  the  right  and  then  heads  westward  to  the  edge  of  the 
Hudson  valley  wall,  down  which  it  zigzags  steeply  and  crosses 
the  Hudson,  which  is  the  county  boundary,  to 

38.0  SCHUYLERVILLE.  Alt  120  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1614.  Saratoga 
Co.  Mfg.  cotton  and  paper. 

South  of  the  village,  some  five  miles  below  the  monument 
commemorating  Burgoyne's  surrender,  in  the  township  of 
Stillwater,  is  the  battle  field  of  Saratoga,  where  two  successive 
engagements  were  fought  in  June  and  October,  1777,  resulting 
in  the  surrender  of  Burgoyne,  Oct.  17,  1777. 

The  route  crosses  the  Champlain  Canal  and  turns  to  the 
right  on  Broad  St.,  and  then  to  the  left  on  Spring  St.,  follow- 
ing the  macadam  highway  westward  over  rolling  country  to 
50.5     SARATOGA. 

\ 


R.  44.     WHITE  RIVER  JUNCTION  to  LAKE  GEORGE. 

105.0  m. 

This  route  follows  the  valley  of  the  Ottaquechee  from 
Woodstock  almost  to  its  head  and  then  climbs  across  the 
Pico  Pass  into  the  Champlain  valley  and  New  York  State. 

R.  44  §  1.     White  River  Junction  to  Rutland.  45.0  m. 

The  route  leaves  White  River  Junction  by  North  Main  St., 
continuing  along  the  riverbank  opposite  the  village  of  Hart- 
ford and  turning  to  the  left  two  miles  and  a  half  beyond. 

6.5  QUECHEE.  Alt  580  ft.  Pop  (Hartford  twp)  4179.  Windsor 
Co.  Settled  1764.  Mfg.  lumber  and  woolens. 

Quechee  Gulf,  165  feet  deep,  is  a  romantic  chasm  a  mile 
and  a  half  down  the  Ottaquechee  river.  The  countryside, 
though  hilly,  is  all  good  farming  land. 

The  road  crosses  the  river  and  R.R.  and  turns  to  the  right, 
soon  meeting  the  stream  and  running  along  its  southern  bank 
past  the  Woodstock  town  line  and  through  the  crossroads 
settlement  of  Taftsville  (10.0)  into 

13.5  WOODSTOCK.  Alt  700  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1383.  County-seat  of 
Windsor  Co.  Settled  1768.  Mfg.  baskets,  druggists'  labels, 
iron,  and  lumber. 

Woodstock  lies  along  the  meadows  at  the  confluence  of  sev- 
eral brooks  with  the  Ottaquechee,  whose  Indian  name  means 
"  laughing  water."  This  central  location  has  made  it  a  popular 
holiday  resort  both  in  summer  and  winter  as  well  as  the  market 
town  for  the  countryside.  Summer  visitors  and  the  rich 
farm  lands  are  the  chief  sources  of  livelihood.  The  Green 
in  the  center  of  the  village  is  a  part  of  the  first  purchase  of 
land  here,  and  this  name  still  lingers  as  the  town's  rightful 
title  among  the  natives.  The  Woodstock  Inn's  site  has  been 
occupied  by  a  tavern  for  1 23  years.  The  Village  Improvement 
Society,  the  nine-hole  golf  links,  and  the  Windsor  County 
Fair,  held  each  September,  all  play  a  part  in  drawing  visitors. 

Of  the  countless  hills  that  cluster  about  Woodstock,  the  chief 
is  Mt.  Tom  (1244  ft),  directly  above  the  village  to  the  north. 
Several  good  drives  have  been  constructed  round  the  mountain, 
leading  to  the  Pogue,  a  crater-like  hollow  once  oozy  and 
treacherous,  but  now  reclaimed,  which  lies  behind  Mt.  Tom. 

Woodstock  is  notable  as  the  birthplace  of  George  P.  Marsh,  the 
U.S.  minister  to  Turkey  and  Italy,  fifty  years  ago,  who  was  also  an 
eminent  Norse  scholar.  Hiram  Powers,  the  sculptor,  whose  "  Greek 
Slave"  was  the  first  piece  of  American  sculpture  to  win  fame,  was 
born  here  in  1805.  Frederick  Billings,  who  opened  the  first  law  office 
in  San  Francisco,  and  later  became  president  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
R.R.,  and  Admiral  Dewey,  have  also  been  residents  of  Woodstock. 

(726) 


R.  44   §   i.     WHITE  RIVER  JUNCTION  TO  RUTLAND  727 

From  Woodstock  the  road  begins  a  steady  Chough  gradual 
climb  through  the  foothills  of  the  Green  Mountains.  It  fol- 
lows the  Ottaquechee.  which  is  fed  on  an  average  by  four 
brooks  to  the  mile.  At  West  Woodstock  (15.0)  the  valley 
slopes  are  still  moderate,  but  they  soon  grow  more  abrupt,  rising 
in  a  notch  to  the  west  as  the  road  curves  into 

20.0  BRIDGEWATER.  Alt  820  ft.  Pop  (twp)  874.  Windsor  Co. 
Settled  1780.  Mfg.  woolens. 

The  village  spreads  along  the  road  to  Bridgewater  corners 
(21.0)  on  the  alluvial  meadows  at  the  base  of  the  hills.  To 
the  right  is  Southgate  Mountain  (1720  ft),  to  the  left,  Rich- 
mond Hill  (2120  ft);  opposite  is  the  dome  of  Bald  Mountain 
(2400  ft);  Raymond  Hill  (1800  ft)  occupies  the  northwest 
corner,  and  a  pretty  valley  extends  to  each  point  of  the  compass. 

Note.  The  southern  valley  road  leads  to  Plymouth  and  Lud- 
low  where  it  joins  Route  19. 

The  route  leads  on  westward  up  the  Ottaquechee  canyon 
through  West  Bridgewater  (27.0),  where  gold  has  been  found 
in  all  too  insufficient  quantities  in  the  slaty  deposits. 

The  road  crosses  the  Rutland  County  line  into  Sherburne 
township,  turning  northward  with  the  river.  Due  west  towers 
Killington  Peak  (4241  ft),  the  second  highest  in  the  State, 
with  Pico  Peak  (3967  ft)  to  its  north.  The  Green  Mountain 
Trail,  Vermont's  long  tramp  for  nature  lovers,  leads  along  this 
ridge  (p  259).  The  view  on  this  section  of  the  Trail,  especially 
from  these  summits,  is  thought  to  be  the  most  comprehensive. 
The  ascent  is  best  made  from  Rutland. 

Passing  between  bluffs  (2500  ft)  that  slant  steeply  above, 
the  road  enters 

31.5     SHERBURNE.     Alt    1220   ft.     Pop   (twp)    409.     Rutland   Co. 

Settled  1785.  Mfg.  lumber,  and  chair-stretchers. 
At  this  busy  little  lumber  hamlet  the  route  takes  the  left 
fork  and  climbs  tortuously  westward  over  the  mountains  by  a 
series  of  long  grades.  On  the  left  is  Pico  Peak  (3967  ft),  a 
large  part  of  which  was  the  late  Senator  Proctor's  hunting  and 
fishing  preserve.  At  the  top  of  the  climb  the  road  reaches  a 
height  of  2190  ft.  The  road  now  descends  between  East 
Mountain  (2390  ft)  to  the  left,  and  Blue  Ridge  Mountain 
(3293  ft)  to  the  right,  crossing  the  town  line  a  mile  beyond  the 
crest.  Nearly  a  dozen  trout  brooks  flow  into  East  Creek, 
which  the  road  joins  a  mile  outside  the  scattered  hamlet  of 
Mendon  (41.0).  The  route  takes  the  left  fork  at  the  entrance 
of  the  village  and  leads  down  the  slopes  into 

45.0     RUTLAND  (R.  5,  p  263). 


728  RUTLAND— LAKE  GEORGE 

R.  44  §  2.     Rutland  to  Lake  George.  60.0  m. 

Leaving  Rutland  by  State  St.,  the  route  passes  through  a 
gap  in  the  western  hills  to  West  Rutland  (4.0).  The  route 
leaves  the  village  park  on  the  left  and  takes  the  center  road  at 
the  cross  streets  just  beyond.  Joining  the  Castleton  river, 
from  the  north,  the  road  runs  along  the  lefthand  slope  of  the 
valley.  After  passing  the  Castleton  town  line  and  crossing 
R.R.  the  highway  enters 

11.5  CASTLETON.  Alt  440  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1885.  Rutland  Co. 
Settled  1767.  Mfg.  slate. 

This  pretty  village  is  the  home  of  a  State  Normal  School 
and  a  center  of  the  slate  industry. 

This  was  the  rendezvous  for  the  attack  on  Ticonderoga  in  1775  and 
here  Benedict  Arnold  was  refused  command  of  the  expedition.  It 
was  also  the  base  to  which  General  St.  Clair  retreated  from  Ticonderoga 
two  years  later  and  the  headquarters  of  the  Hessian  troops  after 
St.  Clair's  defeat  at  Hubbardton,  seven  miles  north.  The  town  was 
named  for  one  Castle  of  whom  the  first  settler,  Colonel  Bird,  bought 
a  portion  of  his  holdings. 

CASTLETON  CORNERS  (13.0).  The  crossroad  here  at  the 
right  leads  to  Lake  Bomoseen,  a  deep  and  Como-like  lakelet, 
eight  miles  long.  It  is  situated  in  a  rocky  basin  whose  west- 
ern shore  has  been  extensively  quarried  for  slate. 

The  route  leads  straight  on  through  Hydeville  (14.0),  a 
little  slate-mill  colony  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Bomoseen,  and 
passes  the  town  line  and  a  swamp,  turning  left  through  Fair 
Haven  (16.0)  on  Route  19  (p  450). 

Note.  A  variant  route  leads  south  to  Poultney,  North 
Granville,  Hartford,  and  Hudson  Falls. 

Just  across  the  Castleton  river  the  road  turns  to  the  right 
and  takes  the  right  fork  beyond  the  Fair  Grounds,  following 
the  "Whitehall"  sign  post.  It  soon  crosses  the  Poultney 
river,  the  New  York  State  line,  and  leads  southward  through 
a  hilly  country  to  WHITEHALL,  N.Y.  (27.0),  whence  the  route 
follows  the  course  of  the  Champlain  Canal  through  Kingsbury 
(42.5)  and  Hudson  Falls  (47.0),  where  it  turns  west  to  GLENS 
FALLS  (50.5)  and  north  to 
60.0  LAKE  GEORGE. 


R.  45.    WHITE  RIVER  JCT.  to  MONTPELIER.     57.0  m. 

This  route  follows  the  White  river  and  its  tributary,  the 
Second  Branch,  up  one  of  the  most  beautiful  valleys  in  New 
England,  through  the  Williamstown  Gulf.  It  passes  through 
Barre,  Vermont's  granite  center,  to  Montpelier.  The  road 
has  a  good  dirt  surface  with  no  severe  grades. 

The  route  crosses  the  White  river  and  passes  through  the 
hamlet  of  Hartford  (1.5)  and  along  the  northern  bank  of  the 
White  river  through  West  Hartford  (7.5),  where  it  crosses  the 
town  line  and  soon  enters 

13.5  SHARON.  Alt  500  ft.  Pop  (twp)  585.  Windsor  Co.  Set.  1765. 
This  riverside  village  is  the  birthplace  of  Joseph  Smith,  the 
founder  of  the  Mormon  religion,  whose  father  moved  here 
from  Topsfield,  Mass.  His  "Book  of  Mormon,"  published 
at  Palmyra,  N.Y.,  purported  to  be  a  translation  of  metal 
tablets  which  he  dug  up  and  read  by  means  of  "a  pair  of 
celestial  giglamps,"  as  Kipling  has  called  the  heaven-bestowed 
spectacles.  The  site  of  his  nativity  is  embellished  with  a  forty- 
ton  granite  monolith,  over  thirty-eight  feet  high  (p  515). 

20.5     ROYALTON.     Alt  510  ft.     Pop  (twp)  1452.     Windsor  Co. 

One  mile  beyond  the  road  twists  under  R.R.  and  then  turns 
to  the  right  across  R.R.  It  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Second 
Branch  of  the  White  river,  taking  the  righthand  road  through 
a  covered  bridge  at  the  crossroads  three  miles  and  a  half  up 
the  stream.  Passing  through  East  Bethel  (25.7)  on  the 
border  of  the  township,  the  road  leads  up  a  pleasant  valley 
through  the  hamlets  of  South  Randolph  (27.5),  East  Randolph 
(31.0),  and  North  Randolph  (33.0).  RANDOLPH  CENTER, 
over  the  hills  to  the  west,  is  a  manufacturing  village  in  the 
heart  of  farming  country,  where  Justin  Morgan  bred  the 
famous  horses  that  bear  his  name.  The  first  of  the  stock  he 
brought  from  Massachusetts.  Indeed,  as  the  names  suggest, 
the  towns  here  were  all  settled  by  Massachusetts  pioneers. 

After  passing  East  Brookfield  (37.0)  the  highway  enters  the 
Williamstown  Gulf,  a  deep  ravine  scarcely  wide  enough  to 
contain  both  river  and  road.  It  emerges  on  the  edge  of 
Williamstown  township,  through  which  the  road  winds  upward. 

44.5     WILLIAMSTOWN.     Alt    1000   ft.     Pop    (twp)    1726.     Orange 

Co.     Mfg.  granite. 

The  village  lies  on  the  height  of  land  between  the  White  and 
the  Winooski  rivers,  so  that  some  of  its  waters  reach  the 
Atlantic  at  Long  Island  Sound  and  the  rest  at  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Lawrence. 

From  Williamstown  the  route  follows  R.R.,  on  the  left, 
down  through  the  southern  portion  of  the  granite  belt  into 

(729) 


730  BARRE— MONTPELIER 

50.5  BARRE.  Alt  601  ft.  Pop  10,734,  one  quarter  foreign-born. 
Washington  Co.  Settled  1788.  Mfg.  granite  and  granite 
tools,  tombstones  and  monuments. 

Barre  is  the  granite  city  of  Vermont,  located  in  the  center 
of  the  granite  district  on  the  highlands  between  the  Connecti- 
cut and  the  Cham  plain  valleys.  It  is  essentially  a  modern 
town,  as  its  prosperity  and  rapid  growth  date  from  1872, 
when  the  quarries  were  first  operated.  The  statue  of  Robert 
Burns,  in  the  square  at  the  center  of  the  town,  the  gift  of  the 
Scotch  residents  in  1899,  is  the  work  of  the  sculptor  J.  Massey 
Rhind.  Goddard  Seminary,  a  coeducational  academy,  was 
established  in  1870.  Southeast  of  the  town  are  Millstone  and 
Cobble  Hills,  the  sites  of  the  principal  quarries. 

Barre's  name  was  determined  by  the  result  of  a  boxing  match  held 
not  long  after  the  town  was  chartered.  In  town  meeting  a  dispute 
arose  as  to  whether  the  name  should  be  Holden  or  Barre,  in  honor  of 
the  Massachusetts  towns  of  the  name.  Champions,  selected  to  rep- 
resent each  cause,  adjourned  to  a  neighboring  barn  and  settled  the 
question  beyond  dispute.  In  1837  the  columns  of  the  capitol  at 
Montpelier  were  hauled  from  a  quarry  here  by  oxen,  and  the  predic- 
tion was  then  made:  "This  is  the  last  structure  that  will  ever  be  built 
of  Barre  granite."  The  annual  output  of  Barre  now  exceeds  $1,000,000 
and  some  4500  men  are  employed.  The  foreign  element,  representing 
a  quarter  of  the  population,  has  shown  itself  excitable  and  turbulent. 

From  Barre  the  road  follows  a  tributary  of  the  Winooski 
river  through  slightly  rolling  country,  joining  Route  46  near 

57.0    MONTPELIER  (R.  46,  p  732}. 


R.  46.     BRETTON  WOODS  to  BURLINGTON. 

113.5  m. 

Via  ST.  JOHNSBURY,  MONTPELIER,  and  WATERBURY. 

This  is  the  most  direct  route  between  the  White  Mountain 
region  and  Lake  Champlain.  It  descends  the  Winooski  river 
through  a  mountain  landscape  dominated  by  Mt.  Mansfield 
and  Camels  Hump,  the  finest  peaks  in  the  Green  Mountains. 
The  road  is  hilly  with  a  good  dirt  surface  for  the  most  part. 


R.  46  §  1.     Bretton  Woods  to  St.  Johnsbury.  36.5  m. 

Following  Route  10  (p  363)  through  Bethlehem  (13.3)  to 
Littleton  (18.3),  the  route  forks  right,  at  the  further  end  of  the 
village,  crossing  the  Connecticut  and  Route  10,  West  Bank 
section,  and  entering  Waterford  (24.0). 

The  route  turns  left  and  runs  parallel  to  the  Connecticut 
three  miles  to  Lower  Waterford,  where  it  turns  to  the  right. 
Climbing  a  moderate  hill  from  which  there  is  a  varied  prospect, 
the  road  passes  the  hamlet  of  Gaskill  at  the  foot  of  Waterford 
Mountain,  and  then  bears  to  the  left  along  the  bank  of  Stiles 
Pond.  A  mile  beyond  the  Waterford-St.  Johnsbury  line  (33.5) 
the  route  crosses  Moose  River  and  R.R.  and  turns  left. 

36.5  ST.  JOHNSBURY.  Alt  711  ft.  Pop  8098.  County-seat  of 
Caledonia  Co.  Settled  1786.  Mfg.  scales,  agricultural 
implements,  and  wood  products. 

The  busy  village  of  St.  Johnsbury,  at  the  junction  of  the 
Moose  and  the  Passumpsic  rivers,  is  the  home  of  the  Fairbanks 
Scale  works,  and  one  of  the  chief  by-products  of  that  industry. 

On  all  sides  are  tokens  of  the  Fairbanks  family's  prosperity 
and  generosity.  Near  the  County  Court  House  on  the  hill 
above  the  town  is  the  Athenaeum  containing  a  public  library, 
a  lecture  hall,  and  an  art  gallery,  the  gift  of  Horace  Fairbanks,  a 
Governor  of  the  State.  Colonel  Franklin  Fairbanks  presented 
the  Museum  of  Natural  Sciences,  and  St.  Johnsbury  Academy, 
one  of  Vermont's  leading  coeducational  schools,  was  founded  in 
1842  by  three  Fairbanks  brothers  and  still  has  a  member  of 
the  family  at  the  head  of  the  board  of  trustees.  The  Old  Pine 
Tree  Country  Club  is  located  on  the  border  of  the  village  and 
a  U.S.  fish  hatchery  was  established  here  in  1894. 

St.  Johnsbury's  name  was  given  by  Ethan  Allen  to  honor  his  friend 
the  French  consul  at  New  York,  St.  John  de  Crevecceur,  whose 
"Letters  of  an  American  Farmer"  drew  numbers  of  immigrants  by 
their  publicity  methods  of  glowing  presentation.  In  1830  Thaddeus 
Fairbanks  contrived  the  platform  scale  in  order  to  weigh  large  quan- 
tities of  hemp,  a  local  product  in  which  he  expected  to  make  his  for- 
tune. The  invention  soon  proved  far  more  marketable  than  the 
hemp,  and  the  works  grew  rapidly,  until  today  the  plant  employs 

(73i) 


732  ST.  JOHNSBURY— MONTPELIER 

1 200  men  and  sells  its  product  all  over  the  world.  It  holds  222  patents 
and  trade  marks  and  makes  above  10,000  varieties  of  scales,  ranging 
in  capacity  from  one  tenth  of  a  grain  to  500  tons.  The  annual  output 
is  valued  at  $4,000,000. 

R.  46  §  2.     St.  Johnsbury  to  Burlington.  77.0  m. 

The  route  leaves  St.  Johnsbury  by  Western  Ave.  Nearly 
two  miles  from  the  town  the  road  forks  left,  beyond  a  covered 
bridge,  and  crosses  R.R.  Four  miles  further  on,  after  crossing 
the  town  line  and  R.R.,  it  climbs  round  Pumpkin  Hill,  on  the 
left,  and  then  descends  into 

7.5  DANVILLE.  Alt  1541  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1564.  Settled  1784. 
Mfg.  harness  and  lumber  products. 

This  is  a  farming  and  lumber  village  on  the  edge  of  the 
height  of  land  between  the  Connecticut  and  the  Champlain 
systems.  The  extensive  views  and  pure  air  have  attracted 
the  hay  fever  vacationists.  Danville,  named  for  Admiral 
D'Anville,  is  another  town  named  in  honor  of  the  French 
through  Ethan  Allen.  It  is  the  birthplace  of  Thaddeus  Stevens, 
the  Congressional  leader  of  the  Reconstruction  period. 

Leaving  the  village  park  on  the  left,  the  road  follows  the 
railway  to  West  Danville  (10.5),  where  it  forks  left  past  Joe's 
Pond,  a  looo-acre  lakelet  (1490  ft).  Turning  left  and  then 
right,  by  the  pond,  the  highway  passes  the  town  line  near 
Molly's  Pond.  Molly  and  Joe  are  said  to  have  been  Indian 
residents  hereabout  many  years  ago.  Cabot  township, 
through  which  the  route  now  leads,  is  hilly  farming  land. 

At  South  Cabot  (16.0)  the  road  curves  right  through  the 
hamlet  of  Molly's  Falls  (19.0),  just  beyond  the  Marshfield 
line.  The  pretty  cascade  here  furnishes  hydro-electric  power. 

Between  the  villages  of  Marshfield  (20.5)  and  Plainfield 
(27-5>  752  ft)  in  a  lumber  and  farm  hill-country  the  route 
meets  the  Winooski  river,  which  it  follows  almost  to  Burling- 
ton. Its  course  is  65  miles  in  length  with  a  fall  of  783  feet; 
it  supplies  15,000  horsepower  during  three  quarters  of  the 
year,  far  less  than  might  be  obtained  by  modern  engineering. 

Crossing  the  Plainfield  town  line  the  road  leads  over  the 
more  regular  contours  of  the  sandy  hills  of  East  Montpelier 
(31.0).  Four  and  a  half  miles  beyond  the  village  the  road 
from  White  River  Junction  and  Williamstown  Gulf  comes  in 
on  the  left.  The  sand  plain  hereabout  as  well  as  the  long 
low  hills  is  the  work  of  glaciers  and  their  sweeping  streams. 

38.0     MONTPELIER.     Alt   500  ft.     Pop   7856.     State   capital;  also 
County-seat  of  Washington  Co.     Settled  1787.     Mfg.  gran- 
ite, machinery,  lumber,  saddlery,  and  hardware. 
Montpelier,   the   capital  of   Vermont,   is   the  third  largest 


R.  46  §   2.     ST.  JOHNSBURY  TO   BURLINGTON  733 

insurance  center  in  New  England.  It  is  situated  in  a  cup- 
shaped  valley  on  the  Winooski  ten  miles  northeast  of  the  geo- 
graphical center  of  the  State.  It  is  a  point  from  which  a 
dozen  good  roads  radiate  through  the  Green  Mountains. 

The  State  House,  erected  in  1857,  is  a  handsome  building 
of  Barre  granite  with  a  Doric  portico  of  six  huge  columns  and 
a  dome  (124  ft)  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Agriculture  by 
Larkin  G.  Mead.  Beneath  the  portico  is  a  statue  of  Ethan 
Allen,  also  by  Mead,  flanked  by  two  brass  cannon  captured  at 
Bennington  (p  257).  The  cannon  on  the  lawn  in  front  are 
Spanish  pieces  taken  at  the  battle  of  Manila.  In  the  lower 
corridor  is  a  bust  of  Lincoln,  and  portraits  of  Admirals  Dewey 
and  Clark,  both  Montpelier  men.  Besides  collections  on  the 
first  floor  there  are  many  relics  in  the  room  of  the  Vermont 
Historical  Society,  including  the  Daye  press,  upon  which  were 
printed  the  first  book  published  in  North  America  and  the 
first  Vermont  newspaper. 

The  Wood  Art  Gallery,  in  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  building,  contains 
an  interesting  collection  mainly  by  Thomas  W.  Wood,  former 
president  of  the  American  Academy  of  Design.  The  Kellogg 
Hubbard  Library  and  the  State  Arsenal  are  nearby  and  on  a 
hill  overlooking  the  town  is  Montpelier  Seminary. 

Admiral  Dewey's  birthplace  is  144  State  St.  As  Admiral 
Clark  also  spent  a  good  part  of  his  boyhood  and  youth  here, 
the  Spanish  War  has  been  locally  termed  "the  war  between 
the  town  of  Montpelier  and  the  kingdom  of  Spain."  D.  P. 
Thompson,  author  of  the  historical  novel  "The  Green  Moun- 
tain Boys,"  and  James  R.  Spaulding,  founder  of  the  "New 
York  World,"  were  also  residents  here  for  some  years. 

Montpelier  was  settled  in  1787  by  Massachusetts  and  Vermont  men, 
including  Ira  Allen.  In  1805  it  became  the  capital.  It  was  named 
after  the  French  city  of  Montpellier  by  'the  father  of  the  town,' 
Colonel  Jacob  Davis. 

From  Montpelier  the  road  leads  along  State  St.  over  a  bad 
R.R.  crossing  (41.5)  and  runs  along  the  right  bank  of  the 
river  past  Middlesex  Station  (45.0;  534  ft)  and  then  crosses 
to  the  southern  side  of  the  stream.  The  river  flows  through 
a  rocky  passage  60  feet  wide  and  30  deep,  cutting  a  ledge, 
probably  the  western  barrier  of  an  ancient  lake. 

On  the  north  bank  is  the  Hogback  Range  stretching  north- 
ward fifteen  miles.  The  central  peak  is  Mt.  Hunger,  a  name 
recording  the  sufferings  of  a  benighted  hunting  party.  The 
mountain  is  rugged  and  precipitous,  and  although  of  no  great 
altitude  the  views  from  its  ridges  are  extensive. 

Passing  the  end  of  the  ridge  the  Green  Mountains  come 
into  sight,  and  crossing  the  river  the  road  enters 


734  WATERBURY— BURLINGTON 

50.0  WATERBURY.  Alt  427  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2084.  Washington  Co. 
Settled  1783.  Mfg.  granite  and  wood  products. 

Waterbury's  scenery  and  proximity  to  the  loftiest  heights  in 
Vermont  have  made  it  a  tourist  center  even  in  the  winter. 

Nine  miles  southwest  is  CAMELS  HUMP  (4088  ft),  the  "Lion's  Head" 
of  William  Dean  Howell's  story  "The  Landlord  at  Lion's  Head," 
also  called  "Le  Lion  Couchant,"  by  Frederika  Brenier,  the  Swedish 
novelist.  A  well-kept  trail  leads  to  the  summit,  where  the  Camels 
Hump  Club  has  erected  a  steel-covered  building  asserted  to  be  proof 
against  "fire,  wind,  and  hedgehogs."  Tents  can  be  rented  at  this 
camp  during  the  summer.  More  isolated  than  the  other  peaks  of 
the  Green  Mountains  it  commands  a  far-reaching  outlook  over  Lake 
Champlain  to  Canada,  and  eastward  to  the  White  Mountains.  It  is 
a  State  park,  presented  by  Colonel  Joseph  Battell  (p  267). 

MX.  MANSFIELD,  the  highest  peak  in  Vermont,  is  twenty  miles 
northwest  of  Waterbury,  beyond  the  pretty  village  of  Stowe.  This 
region  was  once  a  huge  lake  bed,  whose  sands  still  show  on  the  hill- 
sides. There  is  a  good  road  up  the  mountain  past  several  rock  pro- 
files to  the  Summit  House  and  the  base  of  The  Nose,  the  central  peak 
between  The  Forehead,  to  the  south,  and  The  Chin,  to  the  north, 
which  is  the  highest  of  the  three.  The  view  is  more  comprehensive 
than  that  from  Camels  Hump;  it  is  even  claimed  that  Montreal  has 
been  sighted  with  a  strong  glass.  To  the  north,  between  The  Chin 
and  Sterling  Mountain,  is  the  rocky  defile  called  Smugglers'  Notch, 
in  which  the  cliffs  rose  1000  feet  almost  perpendicularly.  From  the 
base  of  one  of  these  bluffs  Crystal  Spring  pours  out  1000  gallons  a 
minute  from  the  mountain's  hidden  reservoirs.  The  name  dates  from 
the  War  of  1812  when  smugglers  used  this  defile.  The  Green  Mountain 
Trail  crosses  both  Camels  Hump  and  Mansfield. 

From  Waterbury  the  route  follows  the  north  bank  of  the 
Winooski.  Bone  Mountain  lowers  ahead,  named  for  an  un- 
lucky French  settler  who  was  dashed  to  pieces  from  a  4oo-foot 
precipice.  Bolton  Station  (57.0;  338  ft).  On  the  right  is 
Stimsons  Mountain  and  on  the  left  Robins  Mountain.  After 
crossing  Duck  Brook,  where  the  wild  duck  used  to  nest,  the 
highway  passes  the  Richmond  town  line  opposite  JONESVILLE 
(60.0),  with  a  spool  factory,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Huntington 
river. 

At  RICHMOND  (64.5)  is  the  Old  Round  Church,  a  sixteen- 
sided  edifice  built  in  1813.  At  the  fork  (66.5)  the  route  turns 
left  over  R.R.  and  a  covered  bridge  beyond. 

Note.  The  right  fork  leads  to  Burlington  via  Essex  Junc- 
tion, a  slightly  longer  but  pleasant  route. 

69.0     WILLISTON.     Alt  305  ft.     Pop   (twp)  1000.     Settled  1774. 

This  quiet  village  was  the  home  of  Governor  Thomas  Chit- 
tenden,  the  Washington  of  Vermont,  who  was  the  first  gover- 
nor of  the  State,  and  its  wise  and  trusted  leader,  in  its  forma- 
tive period,  1778-97.  Driven  from  his  settler's  cabin  here 
in  the  Revolution,  he  with  his  wife  and  ten  children  fled  on 
foot  all  the  way  to  Castleton,  eighty  miles  or  more. 
77.0  BURLINGTON  (R.  S,  p  269). 


R.  47.     BURLINGTON  to  ST.  JOHNSBURY.     125.0  m. 
Via  NEWPORT  and  LAKE  WILLOUGHBY. 

This  route  is  the  least  hilly  of  the  roads  across  Vermont  as 
well  as  one  of  the  most  attractive  in  scenery.  It  follows  por- 
tions of  the  valleys  of  the  Lamoille  and  Missisquoi  rivers  past 
Mt.  Mansfield  to  Lake  Memphremagog  and  Newport,  which 
is  a  point  of  departure  for  Quebec  and  Colebrook.  Turning 
south,  the  route  then  passes  Lake  Willoughby  and  follows  the 
Passumpsic  river  to  St.  Johnsbury.  A  State  Road  through- 
out, it  has  a  good  gravel  surface  with  no  heavy  grades. 

The  route  leaves  Burlington  by  way  of  Pearl  St.  and  Col- 
chester Ave.,  descending  steeply  and  crossing  the  Winooski. 

2.2  WINOOSKI.  Alt  190  ft.  Pop  4520.  Chittenden  Co.  Settled 
1772.  Mfg.  cotton,  woolens,  screens,  machinery,  and  bricks. 

This  village  is  practically  a  manufacturing  suburb  of  Bur- 
lington. The  falls  of  the  Winooski  furnish  power  for  several 
factories,  of  which  the  most  prominent  are  the  mills  of  the 
American  Woolen  Company.  The  falls  in  the  village  are « 
caused  by  barriers  of  red  and  gray  sandstone,  such  as  crop 
out  continually  along  the  Champlain  shore.  Above  the 
town  is  the  Winooski  Gorge,  70  feet  wide  and  90  feet  deep, 
cutting  through  limestone  and  gray  sandstone  cliffs. 

Turning  right  on  Allen  St.,  and  taking  the  right  fork  at  the 
Mary  Fletcher  Hospital,  a  mile  and  a  half  beyond,  the  route 
leaves  Fort  Ethan  Allen  on  the  left  fork.  Here  is  the  larg- 
est garrison  east  of  the  Mississippi,  with  twelve  cavalry  troops 
and  two  artillery  batteries.  The  route  follows  the  right  fork. 

6.5  ESSEX  JUNCTION.  Alt  343  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1245.  Chittenden 
Co.  Settled  1783.  Mfg.  bricks,  marble,  granite,  and  con- 
crete products,  and  canned  goods. 

Primarily  a  railroad  junction,  the  village  has  recently  been 
improved  as  a  manufacturing  site  by  the  large  hydro-electric 
plant  on  the  Winooski.  Here  is  the  office  of  Guy  W.  Bailey, 
the  Secretary  of  the  State  and  leading  publicity  man. 

The  Junction's  notoriety  years  ago  was  celebrated  in  the  verse  by 
Edward  J.  Phelps  of  Burlington,  later  professor  of  law  at  Yale  and 
Minister  to  England  under  President  Cleveland: 

"Here  Boston  waits   for  Ogdensburg, 

And  Ogdensburg  for  Montreal,. 
And  late  New  York  long  tarrieth, 

And  Saratoga  hindereth  all; 
Oh,  fellow  man,  avoid  this  place 

As  you  would  plague  or  Peter  Funk  shun; 
And  I  hope  in  hell 
Their  souls  may  dwell 
Who  first  invented  Essex  Junction." 

(735) 


736  ESSEX   JUNCTION— NEWPORT 

The  road  follows  the  trolley  to  the  left,  forking  to  the  right 
two  miles  further  on.  Passing  through  Essex  Center  (9.7) 
the  road  parallels  Browns  River  across  a  corner  of  Jericho 
township,  keeping  to  the  left  at  Jericho  Post  Office.  Mt. 
Mansfield  (p  734)  rises  against  the  horizon  ten  miles  to  the 
east,  with  Mt.  Sterling  (3700  ft)  at  its  northern  end. 

The  route  turns  northward  through  UNDERBILL  (16.0), 
bearing  left  at  the  fork  and  continuing  over  slightly  rolling 
country  beside  R.R.,  which  it  crosses  with  a  double  curve 
(21.5)  near  Cloverdale  Station;  it  then  crosses  the  Lamoille 
County  line  into  Cambridge  township.  This  is  a  farming  and 
lumbering  country  at  the  northern  base  of  Mt.  Mansfield. 
From  CAMBRIDGE  (26.5),  a  quiet  woodland  village,  the  southern 
road  leads  to  Smugglers'  Notch  (p  734). 

Continuing  straight  through  Cambridge  the  route  meets 
the  Lamoille  river.  Forking  left  at  Jeffersonville  (29.0)  the 
road  follows  the  river  and  R.R.  up  the  quiet  valley  past  the 
Johnson  town  line  into  a  hillier  country. 

38.0  JOHNSON.  Alt  531  ft.  Pop  (twp)  651.  Lamoille  Co.  Set- 
tled 1784.  Mfg.  lumber,  talc,  and  woolens. 

This  hill  village  is  at  the  foot  of  a  spur  of  the  Green  Moun- 
tains at  the  northern  end  of  the  Green  Mountain  Trail 
(p  259),  with  Mansfield's  heights  to  the  southwest.  A  State 
Normal  School  is  located  here.  McConnells  Falls  rush  under 
a  small  natural  bridge,  which  is  best  seen  at  low  water. 

The  righthand  road  beyond  the  Post  Office  leads  to  Stowe, 
Mt.  Mansfield,  and  Waterbury,  on  Route  46  (p  734). 

The  route  takes  the  left  road  beyond  the  Post  Office,  leading, 
eastward  through  the  hamlet  of  North  Hyde  Park.  Hyde 
Park,  six  miles  to  the  south,  has  a  hide  industry. 

The  route  crosses  into  Eden  township  and  ascending  the  valley 
of  Gihon  River  crosses  the  watershed  into  the  St.  Lawrence 
Basin.  The  countryside  is  hilly  and  well  wooded,  so  that 
lumbering  takes  precedence  of  farming. 

Passing  through  the  village  of  EDEN  (48.0),  with  its  lumber 
mills,  and  along  the  shore  of  North  Pond  (50.0)  the  road 
climbs  easily  over  a  low  range  of  hills  and  crosses  the  Orleans 
County  line,  entering  the  township  of  Lowell.  To  the  left  is 
Mt.  Morris  with  Belvidere  Mountain  beyond  it  to  the  north- 
west. The  latter  is  the  site  of  the  principal  asbestos  mines, 
outside  Canada,  on  the  continent. 

By  the  foot  of  Mt.  Morris  the  road  joins  the  headwaters  of 
the  Missisquoi  river,  whose  name  means  "big  woman,"  and 
follows  its  valley  northward  through  the  hamlet  of  Lowell 
(58.0)  where  the  stream  plunges  through  a  hole  in  the  solid 
rock  at  the  bottom  of  a  ten-foot  fall.  The  highway  keeps 


R.  47.     BURLINGTON   TO   ST.  JOHNSBURY  737 

straight  on  through  the  wooded  hills  to  WESTFIELD  (64.5),  a 
borderland  village,  where  the  route  takes  the  right  fork  at  the 
Post  Office.  At  Troy  (66.0)  the  route  again  bears  to  the  right 
leading  through  a  level  farming  country,  past  the  Newport 
town  line  and  the  hamlet  of  West  Newport  (71.5).  One  mile 
beyond  the  route  takes  the  center  road  at  the  triple  fork  and 
descends  to  Lake  Memphremagog  and 

77.0  NEWPORT.  Alt  700  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2548.  County-seat  of 
Orleans  Co.  Settled  1793.  Mfg.  lumber  and  wood  products. 

Newport  is  an  enterprising  village  with  a  handsome  location 
near  the  Canadian  border,  at  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Mem- 
phremagog. It  is  a  point  of  departure  for  Canadian  tours 
as  well  as  a  summer  excursion  center.  The  Newport  Yacht 
Club  considerately  places  its  club  house  at  the  convenience  of 
motorists  who  are  pausing  here.  The  Federal  Government  has 
a  customs  office  where  all  tourists  from  Canada  must  stop. 
The  lumber  business  of  Prouty  and  Miller  has  its  headquarters 
here,  handling  20,00x3,000  feet  of  dressed  lumber  annually. 

Lake  Memphremagog's  name  is  interpreted  as  "the  lake  of 
beauty"  or  "the  waters  of  abundance."  It  is  thirty  miles 
long  with  a  maximum  width  of  four  miles,  more  than  two 
thirds  of  it  lying  in  Canada.  Twelve  miles  up  the  lake,  on 
the  west  shore  past  the  Canadian  line,  is  Owl's  Head  (3270  ft), 
from  the  top  of  which  there  is  an  extensive  view.  A  Masonic 
service  is  held  in  a  crevice  on  its  heights  every  summer.  Along 
the  shore  are  summer  homes  of  Montreal  magnates. 

Note.  From  Newport  to  Quebec  (180.0)  the  main  route 
follows  the  St.  Francis  and  the  Chaudiere  rivers  via  Stanstead, 
Lennoxville,  Thetford,  the  site  of  the  largest  asbestos  mines 
in  the  world,  Robertson  Station,  Broughton,  St.  Frederic,  St. 
Joseph,  Beauce  Junction,  Ste. Marie,  Scott  Junction,  St.  Henri, 
Levis,  and  Quebec.  The  roads  are  very  good  in  the  main, 
and  there  are  no  severe  gradients. 

The  route  leaves  Newport  by  Main  St.,  crossing  R.R.  and 
turning  left  and  then  right  at  once,  passing  through  the  village 
of  West  Derby  (78.5)  where  the  road  bears  right  to  the  hamlet 
of  Derby  (81.0)  with  its  granite  quarries  and  lumber  mills. 
Swinging  to  the  right  through  a  covered  bridge  and  then  to 
the  left,  the  road  leaves  Derby  and  runs  through  a  fairly  level 
country  past  Salem  Pond  into  WEST  CHARLESTON  (87.0). 

Note.  From  West  Charleston  to  Colebrook  (48.0)  the 
road  passes  through  the  Clyde  and  Nulhegan  valleys  via  East 
Charleston,  Island  Pond,  and  North  Stratford,  where  it  joins 
Route  10  (p  365). 


738  NEWPORT— ST.  JOHNSBURY 

From  West  Charleston  the  main  route  turns  to  the  right  at 
the  Post  Office  and  again  to  the  right  one  mile  beyond.  The 
route  heads  southwest  through  broken  country,  climbing 
gradually  and  curving  left  at  the  road-end  on  the  hilltop  (94.0) 
and  descending  past  the  Westmore  town  line  to  LAKE  WIL- 
LOUGHBY.  This  is  a  seven-mile  stretch  of  water  between  two 
ridges  rising  to  the  peaks  of  Mt.  Pisgah  (2654  ft)  on  the  east, 
and  Mt.  Hor  (1592  ft)  on  the  west. 

Passing  through  the  little  settlement  of  Westmore  (97.5) 
the  road  runs  close  to  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake  on  the 
narrow  shelf  at  the  foot  of  the  hills.  Near  the  foot  of  Mt. 
Pisgah  is  the  Devil's  Den,  a  mass  of  rock  rent  asunder  by 
some  upheaval  of  nature.  Above  is  the  Flower  Garden,  on 
the  mountainside,  a  section  where  many  rare  flowers  and 
plants  are  found,  not  elsewhere  discovered  south  of  the  Arctic 
Circle.  Landlocked  salmon,  lake  trout,  steelhead  trout, 
whitefish,  cusk,  and  smelts  are  caught  in  the  lake,  and  the 
brooks  afford  good  trout  fishing  as  well.  The  view  from  the 
southern  end  of  the  lake  is  probably  the  best. 

The  highway  leads  across  the  Caledonia  County  line  into 
Newark  and  shortly  after  into  Sutton  townships,  following 
the  Passumpsic  river,  which  rises  in  these  hills,  down  through 
the  hamlet  of  West  Burke  (107.5)  and  across  the  Burke- 
Lyndon  line  to  the  quiet  village  of  LYNDON  CENTER  (116.0). 
A  mile  to  the  left  is  Lyndonville,  a  busy  little  center  on  the 
falls  of  the  Passumpsic  river,  with  railroad  shops  and  a  few 
factories.  Theodore  N.  Vail,  head  of  the  American  Tele- 
phone and  Telegraph  Company,  has  a  summer  home  and  a 
scientific  farm  here,  and  has  given  the  State  the  Lyndon 
Agricultural  School,  an  excellent  institution. 

The  route  proceeds  southward,  still  following  the  river,  and 
crossing  the  St.  Johnsbury  township  line.     After  passing  sev- 
eral dangerous  grade  crossings  the  road  goes  through  St.  Johns- 
bury  Center  (122.0)  and  then  reaches 
125.0     ST.  JOHNSBURY  (R.  46,  p  731). 


R.  48.     FRANKLIN  to  WEST  LEBANON.     52.5  m. 

This  route  follows  the  projected  Mascoma  Valley  State 
Highway,  a  convenient  link  between  the  Connecticut  and 
Merrimack  valleys.  It  is  to  be  marked  by  green  and  blue 
bands  with  white  border. 

At  Franklin  turn  left  from  Main  St.  beyond  R.R.  and  pass 
Webster  Lake,  crossing  and  recrossing  R.R.,  which  the  route 
follows  closely  throughout.  Continue  through  the  hamlet  of 
East  Andover  (6.0),  by  Highland  Lake,  and  through  Andover 
(10.7)  past  Pleasant  Lake  to  West  Andover  (13.5). 

Here  Route  43  (p  720)  forks  left  to  Lake  Sunapee  and 
Claremont.  To  the  right  are  the  bleak  slopes  of  Ragged 
Mountain  (2256  ft).  Still  following  R.R.  closely,  at  Danbury 
(19.5)  the  route  forks  left  through  East  Grafton  (24.5),  again 
forking  left  beside  R.R.  through 

26.5  GRAFTON  CENTER.  Alt  840  ft.  Pop  (twp)  641.  Grafton 
Co.  Mfg.  mica  and  lumber  products. 

This  pleasant  little  village  lies  near  Tewksbury  Pond.  To 
the  south  is  Milvin  Hill  (2134  ft)  and  to  the  north  Isinglass 
Mountain,  where  are  the  mines  of  the  United  Mica  Co.  On 
the  north  side  of  a  spur,  the  Pinnacle,  is  a  150-foot  precipice. 

The  route  parallels  R.R.  past  the  mountain,  with  Mt.  Car- 
digan (3250  ft)  to  the  east.  From  its  domed  summit  of  granite 
there  is  an  extensive  view.  Professor  Hitchock  says:  "Ob- 
servation shows  that  the  granite  came  up  through  a  vent 
directly  under  the  apex  of  the  cone;  that  when  soft  the  pasty 
material  oozed  from  the  opening  and  gradually  accumulated 
until  the  whole  mountain  was  built  up." 

33.5    CANAAN.    Alt  942  ft.    Pop  (twp)  1408.     Grafton  Co. 

At  Crystal  Lake,  reached  by  the  right  fork,  is  the  straggling 
pretty  village  of  Canaan  Street,  with  a  nine-hole  golf  course. 
By  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  at  the  north  end  of  the  village,  is 
Canaan  Corner,  where  the  Stillson  wrench  was  invented. 

The  route  forks  left  in  Canaan,  continuing  beside  the  R.R. 
down  the  Mascoma  valley  through  West  Canaan  (39.5).  Of 
the  saw,  woolen,  and  paper  mills  once  driven  by  the  river  only 
a  sawmill  remains.  At  Enfield  (42.5)  is  Mascoma  Lake,  four 
miles  long,  with  a  Shaker  Village  on  the  south  bank,  reached  by 
a  bridge.  Here  brooms,  woolen  goods,  and  seeds  are  for  sale. 
Continue  westward  through  Lebanon  (47.5),  joining  Route  10  n 
(P  337))  descending  to 
52.5  WEST  LEBANON. 


(739) 


R.  49.    BRETTON  WOODS  to  BANGOR.    186.5  m. 
Via  BETHEL,  RUMFOKD,  FARMINGTON,  and  SKOWHEGAN. 

This  route  crosses  the  heart  of  Maine,  for  the  most  part 
traversing  fair  to  good  roads  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  agricul- 
tural region.  Rumford,  with  its  great  industrial  development, 
cannot  fail  to  interest.  The  route  intersects  most  of  the 
important  Maine  routes. 

From  Bretton  Woods  follow  Route  51  reversed  to  Bethel 
(47.5).  Turn  left,  continuing  down  the  Androscoggin  river  on 
the  west  bank  past  Mt.  Will  (1745  ft)  to 

54.0     NEWRY.    Alt  680 ft.    Pop(twp)271.    Oxford  Co.    Settled  1781. 
From  this  hill  village  the  route  still  follows  the  left  bank  of 
the  Androscoggin  eastward  through 

66.0     HANOVER.     Alt  700  ft.     Pop  (twp)  196.     Settled  1802. 

Continuing  beside  the  river,  the  route  crosses  Ellis  River 
and  bears  right,  following  the  bank  through  Rumford  Point 
(67.5)  and  Rumford  Center  (71.5)  to 

77.0  RUMFORD.  Alt  516  ft.  Pop  (twp)  6777 .  Oxford  Co.  Settled 
1780.  Mfg.  paper. 

Rumford,  one  of  the  great  paper-making  centers  of  New 
England,  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago  was  a  tiny  hamlet.  The 
falls,  "the  grandest  in  New  England,"  descend  over  ragged 
granite  ledges  180  feet  in  four  plunges.  The  third  and  prin- 
cipal fall  has  an  almost  perpendicular  descent  of  80  feet  and 
its  roaring  can  be  heard  at  some  distance.  The  best  view  of 
this  fall  is  from  the  concrete  bridge.  At  all  points  not  needed 
for  industrial  purposes  the  wild  beauty  of  the  riverbanks  has 
been  preserved  for  parks.  About  half  of  the  54,000  h.p.  is 
utilized  in  the  making  of  paper  and  in  subsidiary  industries. 

Rumford  is  the  creation  of  a  modern  industrial  community  from 
the  ground  up, — a  new  railway,  a  magnificent  waterpower,  great  in- 
dustries, and  a  highly  organized  urban  community,  all  within  about 
20  years.  The  scheme,  including  the  planning  of  the  city  and  the 
establishment  of  coordinating  industries,  is  the  fruit  of  the  organizing 
genius  of  Hugh  J.  Chisholm  of  the  International  Paper  Company,  who 
started  life  as  a  newsboy  on  the  Grand  Trunk  trains.  The  Oxford 
Paper  Company  makes  all  the  postals  for  the  U.S.  Government  at 
the  rate  of  3,000,000  a  day.  Next  the  International  mill  is  the  factory 
of  the  Continental  Bag  Company  with  a  capacity  of  15,000,000  bags 
per  day.  This  factory  utilizes  a  good  part  of  the  product  of  the  paper 
mills.  The  main  industries  use  each  other's  products,  and  diversified 
minor  industries  avail  themselves  of  the  distribution  of  electric  power. 

Crossing  Swift  River  continue  along  the  left  bank  of  the 
Androscoggin  through  Dixfield  (83.0). 

Note.  In  rainy  weather  the  best  route  to  Farmington  bears 
left  through  Berry  Mills  (8.0),  Weld  (15.0),  and  Wilton  (28.0). 
This  road  is  eleven  miles  longer,  but  less  hilly  than  the  route 
described  below. 

(740) 


R.  49-  BRETTON  WOODS  TO  BANGOR  741 

Leaving  the  river  at  East  Dixfield  (95.0),  the  route  turns  left 
up  through  the  hills  to 

99.5  WILTON.  Alt  472  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2143.  Franklin  Co.  Set- 
tled 1789.  Mfg.  woolens. 

Wilton  is  the  distributing  center  for  the  region  (p  754).  The 
road  follows  R.R.,  which  it  crosses  at  East  Wilton  (102.5). 

707.0     FARMINGTON  (R.  52,  p  754). 

The  route  follows  the  valley  of  Sandy  River  through  New 
Sharon  (115.5)  to 

122.0  MERCER.  Alt  300  ft.  Pop  (twp)  441.  Somerset  Co.  Set- 
tled 1784.  Mfg.  lumber  products. 

The  small  towns  in  this  part  of  Maine  were  settled  in  the 
last  quarter  of  the  eighteenth  century  and  had  a  slow  growth 
as  agricultural  communities.  About  1860  the  population  de- 
clined owing  to  the  Civil  War  and  to  the  migration  to  the  West, 
perhaps  even  more  to  the  destruction  of  the  forests  and  the 
exhaustion  of  the  soil.  In  recent  years  new  life  has  been 
created  by  the  introduction  of  manufacturing,  the  develop- 
ment of  waterpower,  and  more  intelligent  methods  of  farming. 

From  Mercer  keep  straight  on  between  Willard  and  Beech 
Hills,  at  East  Mercer  (124.0)  descending  steep  grade. 

130.0  NORRIDGEWOCK.  Alt  187  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1608.  Somer- 
set Co.  Settled  1773.  Indian  name,  "smooth  water." 
Mfg.  granite  and  shoes. 

Norridgewock  is  a  fine  old  country  town  on  the  Kennebec 
river  with  a  broad  street  parallel  with  the  bank  and  bordered 
by  some  magnificent  elms.  West  of  the  north  end  of  the 
bridge  is  the  Free  Library  Building,  given  to  the  town  by  the 
late  Rebecca  S.  Clark,  'Sophie  May,'  whose  home  is  to  the 
west  and  on  the  left.  Below  the  bridge  on  the  north  side  of 
the  street  stands  the  old  stone  jail  built  in  1810;  and  beyond 
by  the  river  nearly  opposite  'The  Old  Willow,'  stands  a  two- 
story  dwelling,  Somerset  County's  first  Court  House. 

Norridgewock  was  the  scene  of  a  horrible  massacre  by  the  Colonial 
troops  in  1724.  After  that  the  place  remained  desolate  for  half  a 
century.  Whittier's  poem  "Mogg  Megone"  has  much  to  do  with  this 
region.  Five  miles  above  the  town  is  Old  Point  where  a  granite  shaft 
surmounted  by  an  iron  cross  marks  the  site  of  the  village  of  Canibas 
Indians  and  a  famous  French  Jesuit  mission  during  the  seventeenth 
century,  under  the  scholarly  Sebastien  Rale,  who  became  chief  of  the 
Abenaquis  in  fact  if  not  in  name. 

The  road  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Kennebec  river,  join- 
ing Route  52,  to  BANGOR  (186.5),  at 

135.0     SKOWHEGAN  (R.  55,  p  784). 


I 

R.  50.     PORTLAND  to  BRETTON  WOODS.     95.0  m. 

Via  SEBAGO  LAKE  and  CRAWFORD  NOTCH. 

This  route  is  shorter  but  less  used  than  Route  51.  The 
roads  are  chiefly  dirt  and  gravel,  recently  improved  and 
eventually  to  be  united  as  a  State  trunk  line  road.  The  rise 
of  900  feet  from  sea  level  at  Portland  to  North  Conway  is 
gradual  with  no  heavy  grades.  Sebago  Lake  is  a  center  for 
attractive  excursions  by  steamer  to  various  resorts  along  Sebago 
Lake,  Long  Lake,  and  the  Songo  river.  Ever-changing  views 
of  the  White  Mountains  rise  westward,  between  Fryeburg, 
reminiscent  of  Indian  warfare,  and  Route  42,  the  New  Hamp- 
shire East  Side  State  Road.  Thence  the  route  turns  north- 
ward through  the  intervales  of  the  upper  Saco  valley  to  Glen 
and  via  the  Crawford  Notch  to  Bretton  Woods. 

Leaving  Congress  Square,  Portland,,  by  way  of  State  St. 
and  Forest  Ave.,  passing  Deering's  Oaks  and  Woodfords,  to 
MORRILL'S  CORNER  (3.5),  the  route  lies  straight  ahead. 
Allen  Ave.,  to  the  right,  leads  to  Poland  Spring,  via  Route  51 
(P  749)- 

Note.  Forest  Ave.,  to  the  left,  affords  an  optional  route  to 
Naples.  This  runs  over  dirt  roadways  through  Cumberland 
Mills,  where  the  waterpower  of  the  Presumpscot  is  utilized  in 
the  manufacture  of  wood  pulp  and  paper,  to  Gorham  and  the 
village  of  Sebago  Lake,  where  the  steamers  start,  through 
East  Sebago,  North  Sebago,  and  South  Naples  to  Naples. 

Two  miles  beyond,  on  the  right,  is  Riverton  Park,  an  amuse- 
ment resort.  The  road  crosses  the  Presumpscot  river  to 
HIGHLAND  LAKE  (8.5),  formerly  called  Duck  Pond.  Four 
miles  beyond  the  road  passes  through  Windham  Center,  and 
crosses  Pleasant  River,  a  branch  of  the  Presumpscot,  into 

16.5  NORTH  WINDHAM.  Alt  320  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1954.  Set.  1737. 
SEBAGO  LAKE  (262  ft),  about  sixteen  miles  long  and  eleven 
miles  wide,  covers  about  100  square  miles  and  receives  the 
water  from  some  twenty-three  lakes,  besides  having  a  con- 
siderable watershed  of  its  own.  The  Indian  name  Sebago 
means  "lake."  It  is  the  source  of  the  water  supply  for  the 
city  of  Portland.  The  chemical  analysis  of  the  water  is  said 
to  be  identical  with  that  of  the  famous  Poland  Spring.  Its 
outlet,  the  Presumpscot  river,  furnishes  valuable  waterpower. 
The  lake  is  famous  for  its  salmon  and  smelt  fishing.  The 
continuation  of  the  fish  supply  is  assured  by  the  fish  hatcheries 
at  Naples  and  Raymond.  As  the  ice  goes  out  in  Sebago 
earlier  than  in  any  other  Maine  lake,  the  fishermen  have  a 
long  season.  The  lake  contains  two  large  islands:  Indian, 

(742) 


R.  50.  PORTLAND  TO  BRETTON  WOODS  743 

about  75  acres,  and  Frye,  about  1000.     The  few  others  are  of 
bungalow  size. 

There  is  a  frequent  steamboat  service  on  Sebago  Lake,  upon 
the  arrival  of  trains,  to  all  points  on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  also 
through  the  Songo  river  and  Long  Lake  to  Bridgton,  North 
Bridgton,  and  Harrison.  On  the  shore  of  Raymond  Neck 
opposite  Frye  Island  is  Frye's  Leap,  a  precipitous  rock  nearly 
forty  feet  high.  The  original  Indian  pictographs  on  the 
cliff  have  been  superabundantly  restored.  The  legend  runs 
that  during  the  assault  by  the  Indians,  Captain  Frye  jumped 
from  the  summit  of  the  rock  to  the  water,  a  distance  of  forty 
feet,  and  swam  to  Frye  Island  opposite.  Today,  as  the 
steamer  passes,  a  Wawenock  Indian  springs  out  on  the  cliff 
and  gives  the  redman's  warwhoop.  The  'Indian'  is  one  of 
the  staff  of  Dr.  Kendall's  Camp  Wawenock,  for  boys.  Sebago- 
Wohelo  (p  800),  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Luther  H.  Gulick's  camp  for 
girls,  is  on  Shingle  Cove,  two  miles  to  the  north.  Several 
other  camps  of  less  note  are  situated  on  the  neighboring 
shores.  On  the  west  shore  of  the  lake  is  the  Saddleback 
Range,  of  which  the  highest  point  is  Douglas  Hill  (1407  ft). 

21.5     RAYMOND.     Alt   400  ft.     Pop    (twp)   677.     Cumberland   Co. 

Settled  1771. 

This  is  a  clean  little  village  with  neat  residences  and  elm- 
shaded  streets  at  the  head  of  Jordan  Bay,  with  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  White  Mountains.  Its  name  honors  Captain 
William  Raymond,  who  had  the  grant  in  1767  for  services 
rendered  in  the  Canadian  expedition. 

The  boyhood  home  of  Nathaniel  Hawthorne,  now  used  as 
a  church,  where  his  ancestors  lived  for  generations,  lies  to  the 
right  of  the  route  on  the  road  which  runs  out  on  Raymond 
Neck.  It  is  near  Dingley  Brook  which,  issuing  from  Thomas 
Pond,  on  the  right,  makes  a  plunge  of  fifteen  feet  down  to 
Sebago  Lake.  Hawthorne  returned  to  his  home  for  his  vaca- 
tions every  year  from  1813  to  1825,  when  he  graduated  from 
Bowdoin.  At  the  outlet  of  Thomas  Pond  is  a  flat  rock  known 
as  Nat's  Rock,  said  to  be  Hawthorne's  favorite  fishing  place. 

THE  SONGO  RIVER,  the  outlet  of  Brandy  Pond,  now  called 
Bay  of  Naples  at  the  foot  of  Long  Lake,  flows  into  Sebago. 
Songo  is  an  Indian  word  meaning  "the  outlet."  Longfellow's 
description  may  be  taken  literally: 

"Nowhere  such  a  devious  stream, 
Save  in  fancy  or  in  dream, 
Winding  slow  through  brush  and  brake, 
Links  together  lake  by  lake." 

The  steamer  traverses  a  distance  of  six  and  a  half  miles  with 
twenty-seven  turns  in  a  forward  progress  of  two  and  a  half 


744  RAYMOND— FRYEBURG 

miles.     The  new  concrete  lock,  replacing  the  old  one  of  1823, 
near  the  upper  end  of  the  river,  has  a  fall  of  seven  feet. 

The  Indians  assembled  at  the  head  of  Long  Lake  under  Worrambus. 
In  many  canoes  they  passed  down  Lake  Wyonegonic,  now  Long  Lake, 
through  the  Songo  and  fell  upon  the  newly  settled  town  of  Gorham. 
In  the  fight,  the  Indians  were  repulsed  and  Worrambus  mortally 
wounded.  A  legend  tells  of  his  death  on  the  banks  of  the  Songo  at- 
tended by  his  daughter  Minnehaha. 

Passing  straight  through  South  Casco,  and  across  Crooked 
River,  the  Songo's  confluent,  the  route  passes  between  Brandy 
Pond  on  the  left  and  Long  Lake  on  the  right. 

30.5  NAPLES.  Alt  275  ft.  Pop  (twp)  736.  Cumberland  Co. 
Settled  1743.  Steamboat  line  on  Songo  River,  Long  Lake, 
and  Sebago  Lake. 

This  is  a  popular  summer  resort  of  hotels  and  cottages,  with 
a  nine-hole  golf  course.  The  ponds  are  stocked  every  year 
with  salmon,  bass,  and  trout  from  the  State  Fish  Hatchery. 

LONG  LAKE,  the  Indian  name  of  which  is  Wyonegonic,  is 
about  eleven  miles  long.  It  is  a  beautiful  body  of  water  with 
high,  wooded  shores  which  have  made  it  a  most  popular  loca- 
tion for  boys'  and  girls'  summer  camps.  Some  of  the  best 
known  and  best  managed  are  clustered  about  the  head  of  the 
lake  near  Harrison,  among  them  Camps  Wyonee,  Wildmere, 
and  Kineo  (p  800).  Near  North  Bridgton  is  Long  Lake 
Lodge. 

HARRISON.  Alt  300  ft.  Pop  (twp)  967.  Cumberland  Co.  Settled 
1770.  Steamboat  line  on  Long  and  Sebago  Lakes. 

At  the  head  of  Long  Lake  is  Harrison,  a  quiet,  restful  village 
in  a  happy  combination  of  mountain,  lake,  and  forest.  The 
streets  are  shaded  by  elms  and  contain  many  summer  resi- 
dences. Alice  Nielsen,  the  prima  donna,  Owen  Wister,  the 
novelist,  and  other  celebrities  camp  here  in  the  summer. 

A  few  miles  beyond  Harrison  is  Waterford,  the  old  home  and 
burial  place  of  'Artemus  Ward,'  Charles  Farrar  Browne, 
second  only  to  Mark  Twain  in  typically  American  humor. 

DENMARK,  a  pretty  village  on  Moose  Pond,  is  twelve  miles 
west  of  Naples. 

The  route  to  Poland  Spring  is  given  in  Route  52  n  (p  749). 

From  Naples  the  road  leads  northward  along  the  high  land 
on  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  with  delightful  views  of  the  White 
Mountains.  Crossing  the  Bridgton  and  Saco  River  Narrow 
Gauge  R.R.,  the  road  enters 

39.0     BRIDGTON.     Alt  405  ft.     Pop  (twp)  2600.     Cumberland  Co. 

Settled  1770.     Mfg.  woolens,  lumber,  and  lumber  products. 

Steamboat  line  on  Long  and  Sebago  Lakes. 
Located  on  a  high  ledge  between  Long  Lake  and  Highland 
Lake,  this  active  little  town  is  one  of  the  more  important 


R.  50.  PORTLAND  TO  BRETTON  WOODS  745 

points  in  the  Sebago  Lake  region.  Formerly  known  as  Pondi- 
cherry,  it  was  renamed  for  Moody  Bridges  of  Andover,  a  large 
landowner.  The  Pondicherry  and  one  of  the  American  Woolen 
Company  mills  are  located  here. 

From  Bridgton's  rambling  Main  St.  there  are  many  pretty 
glimpses  of  the  neighboring  lakes  and  the  countryside  from 
Poland  Spring  to  Mt.  Washington.  Pleasant  Mountain 
(2007  ft),  five  miles  west,  is  the  central  feature  of  the  land- 
scape. The  view  from  Sunset  Rock  (640  ft),  a  bluff  one  mile 
north  on  Highland  Lake,  is  well  worth  seeing.  On  the  Upper 
Ridge  is  Wayside  Gardens,  a  pretty  horticultural  exhibit. 
The  Saco  Valley  Musical  Festival,  which  is  held  here  annually 
the  first  week  in  Augus",  has  among  its  patronesses  Mrs. 
Kate  Douglas  Wiggin  Riggs  and  Mme.  Olive  Fremstad. 

From  Bridgton  the  road  skirts  the  southern  shore  of  High- 
land Lake  on  which  are  cottages  and  camps  of  many  wellknown 
people,  Mme.  Fremstad  among  the  number,  and  three  miles 
west  of  Bridgton.  On  Moose  Pond  are  the  popular  group  of 
Cobb's  Camps  for  both  boys  and  girls, — Camp  Winona  for 
boys  and  Camp  Wyonegonic  for  girls. 

At  the  hamlet  of  Pumpkin  valley,  Beaver  Pond  is  on  the 
left.  The  road  crosses  Moose  Pond  by  a  double  causeway,  to 
the  left  of  which  is  a  small  island,  Sabattus,  upon  which  the 
famous  Indian  Chief  Sabattus  is  said  to  have  lived.  His  wig- 
wam was  provided  with  a  cellar,  unusual  among  Indians. 

The  route  passes  West  Bridgton,  at  the  foot  of  Pleasant 
Mountain.  Continuing  through  the  crossroads  village  of 
East  Fryeburg  (48.5),  the  route  enters  the  broad  intervales  of 
the  Saco.  To  the  right,  before  entering  the  village  of  Fryeburg, 
is  the  Jockey  Cap,  a  rocky  mass  containing  small  garnets, 
rising  a  couple  of  hundred  feet  above  the  road.  Lovells  Pond, 
to  the  left,  was  the  scene  of  the  all-day  fight  of  Captain  Love- 
well  and  his  band  of  scouts  in  1725,  from  which  only  a  few 
survivors  reached  the  settlements.  It  is  mainly  notable  as 
the  only  battle  fought  on  the  soil  of  this  State.  The  spot  is 
marked  by  a  monument.  Longfellow's  first  poem,  written  at 
the  age  of  thirteen,  was  on  this  skirmish. 

54.5  FRYEBURG.  Alt  429  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1282.  Oxford  Co.  Set- 
tled 1762.  Indian  name  Pequawket,  "  crooked  place"  or 
"  white  swan."  Mfg.  canned  goods. 

This  pleasant,  peaceful  village  is  in  the  fertile  Saco  river 
meadows.  James  Ripley  Osgood,  wellknown  in  Boston  liter- 
ary circles  fifty  years  ago,  for  his  connection  with  the  "Atlan- 
tic "  and  later  with  "Harper's  Magazine,"  and  Kate  Putnam 
Osgood,  writer  of  verse,  were  born  and  spent  their  youthful 
vears  in  the  large  white  house  on  the  left,  now  marked  "Ye 


746  FRYEBURG— BARTLETT 

Inn."  Commander  Robert  E.  Peary  spent  a  year  or  more 
in  Fryeburg,  after  graduating  from  Bowdoin,  and  he  is  now  an 
occasional  visitor  to  the  village. 

Fryeburg  was  granted  through  General  Joseph  Frye  of  Andover, 
Mass.,  a  veteran  of  the  French  Wars.  For  many  years  it  was  the 
only  town  near  the  White  Mountains  and  thrived  as  the  market  town 
of  the  countryside.  Daniel  Webster  taught  at  the  Fryeburg  Academy, 
eking  out  his  modest  salary  of  $350  a  year  by  copying  deeds  for  the 
county  registry.  Howells  opened  "A  Modern  Instance"  here,  and 
Dr.  Holmes  introduced  a  Fryeburg  character  in  "Elsie  Venner." 

The  route  follows  the  valley  of  the  Saco,  crossing  the  State 
line  into  New  Hampshire,  and  beyond  the  village  of  Center 
Conway  (59.0)  turns  right  and  crosses  the  Saco  river.  Rattle- 
snake Mountain  lies  to  the  right  with  quarries  at  Redstone 
(62.0).  At  NORTH  CONWAY  (65.0)  the  route  joins  Route  42 
(P  7!5)>  the  East  Side  Road  of  the  New  Hampshire  State 
Highways,  marked  by  yellow  bands  on  the  telephone  poles. 

At  GLEN  (71.0)  the  route  turns  left  across  the  Ellis  river, 
following  the  red-banded  poles.  Route  42  with  the  yellow 
markers  continues  to  Gorham  and  the  Dixville  Notch  (p  715). 

From  the  bridge  there  is  a  fine  view  of  Carter  Notch.  The 
route  continues  up  the  valley  with  Iron  Mountain  on  the  right. 
Ahead  is  the  dome  of  Mt.  Carrigain  (4650  ft). 

77.0     BARTLETT.  Alt  670  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1196.  Carroll  Co.  Settled  1770. 

Bartlett  stands  at  the  meeting  of  the  Saco  river  with  the 
East  Branch  near  the  great  bend  of  the  Saco  valley.  The 
little  village  is  nearly  surrounded  by  Mt.  Kearsarge  (2943  ft), 
Thorn  Hill  (1440  ft),  and  Moat  Mountain.  There  is  a  magnifi- 
cent view  of  the  Saco  intervales  from  the  little  church  just 
below  Lower  Bartlett.  To  the  right  is  Hart  Ledge  and  to  the 
left  the  Bartlett  Haystack. 

The  town  was  settled  about  1770  and  named  in  honor  of  Josiah 
Bartlett,  the  first  American  Governor  of  New  Hampshire,  and  a  signer 
of  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  The  nearest  market  for  the  set- 
tlers was  at  Dover,  N.H.,  and  there  they  went  in  winter  on  snow- 
shoes  and  dragging  hand  sleds.  Sawyer's  Rock,  a  great  boulder  on 
the  right,  is  said  to  have  been  christened  by  the  old  huntsman  himself, 
who  broke  a  bottle  of  rum  against  it  when  he  and  Nash  successfully 
drove  a  horse  through  the  Notch  in  1773. 

CRAWFORD  GLEN.  The  narrow  valley  from  Sawyer's  to 
the  Crawford  House,  a  distance  of  about  twelve  and  a  half 
miles,  is  known  as  the  Crawford  Glen.  Only  the  last  three 
miles  of  this,  from  a  point  a  little  below  the  Willey  House,  is  the 
Crawford  Notch  proper,  the  gateway  to  the  White  Mountains. 

Beyond  Sawyer's  and  just  before  reaching  the  hamlet  of 
BEMIS  (83.5),  the  route  crosses  Nancy's  Brook,  named  for  an 
unfortunate  servant  girl  who  walked  to  this  point  from  Lan- 
caster one  winter's  night  in  pursuit  of  a  faithless  lover.  Chilled 


R.  50.  PORTLAND  TO  BRETTON  WOODS  747 

and  weary,  she  sank  exhausted  by  this  brook,  and  was  found 
a  month  later  frozen  to  death.  Just  beyond,  on  the  left,  is 
the  grave  of  Abel  Crawford,  "the  patriarch  of  the  mountains." 
As  the  road  ascends  the  Glen,  on  the  right  to  the  east  is  the 
Crawford  group  of  summits,  and  to  the  left,  the  Nancy  range. 
CRAWFORD  NOTCH  is  one  of  the  celebrated  features  of  the 
White  Mountains,  the  gateway  by  which  most  people  enter 
and  leave  this  region.  On  the  west  are  Mts.  Willey  (4260  ft) 
and  Willard  (2786  ft),  and  on  the  east,  Mts.  Jackson  (4012  ft) 
and  Webster  (3876  ft).  Soon  after  entering  the  defile,  the  road 
passes  the  old  Willey  House  (89.0)  at  an  altitude  of  1450  feet. 

This  was  the  scene  of  the  disaster  of  June,  1826,  when  the  nine 
members  of  the  household  lost  their  lives.  On  that  fatal  night,  roused 
by  the  roar  of  the  avalanche,  they  rushed  from  their  beds  and  from 
the  house,  and  a  short  distance  away  were  buried  by  the  rocks  and 
debris;  the  house  was  unharmed.  These  landslides  have  carried  away 
nearly  all  of  the  crumbling,  partially  decomposed  granite  from  the 
slopes  so  that  there  is  no  longer  any  danger  from  them. 

The  Notch  was  first  made  known  by  Timothy  Nash,  a  hunter  and 
trapper,  who  pursued  a  moose  here  in  1771.  Nash  went  to  Portsmouth 
and  informed  Governor  Wentworth  of  this  mountain  pass.  Went- 
worth,  in  order  to  test  its  value  as  a  route  of  commerce,  told  Nash  that 
if  he  could  bring  a  horse  through  it  from  Lancaster  to  Portsmouth, 
he  should  receive  a  grant  of  more  than  2000  acres,  from  the  Gate  of 
the  Notch  to  beyond  Fabyans.  Nash  and  his  fellow  pioneer,  Sawyer, 
brought  a  horse  from  Lancaster,  lowered  the  beast  over  the  cliffs, 
and  drove  it  down  the  Notch  along  the  rocky  bed  of  the  Saco,  and  so 
to  Portsmouth,  receiving  their  promised  reward  from  the  Governor. 
A  few  years  later  a  road  was  built  which  became  the  direct  route  be- 
tween the  coast  and  the  upper  Coos  country.  In  180.*  the  famous 
Tenth  New  Hampshire  Turnpike  was  constructed  and  became  a  much 
traveled  route  with  very  profitable  tolls;  trains  of  merchandise  a  half 
a  mile  long  were  often  seen  upon  it.  With  the  coming  of  the  railroad, 
the  turnpike  fell  somewhat  into  disuse,  but  coaching  and  automobil- 
ing  has  again  brought  it  into  renown.  One  of  the  principal  taverns 
on  the  old  'pike'  was  on  the  site  of  the  present  Fabyans.  The  imme- 
diate area  of  the  Crawford  Notch,  purchased  for  $100,000,  is  now 
owned  by  the  State  of  New  Hampshire.  It  is  nearly  surrounded  by 
the  lands  of  the  National  Forest  (p  622). 

The  road  winds  upward  through  the  defile  between  lofty 
mountain  walls,  following  the  course  of  the  Saco.  Climbing 
the  steep  ascent  of  Tug-of-War  Hill  (90.0),  the  route  reaches 
the  most  imposing  point  in  the  gorge.  On  the  right  are  the 
Silver  Cascade  and  the  Flume  Cascade  (250  ft). 

The  northern  gateway  of  the  Notch  is  only  twenty-six 
feet  wide  and  through  it  crowd  the  Saco  river  and  the  carriage 
road.  Close  at  hand  is  the  cliff  of  Elephant's  Head,  and  at 
the  summit  is  the  watershed  divide  between  Long  Island 
Sound  and  the  Maine  coast. 

The  Crawford  House  (92.0)  is  situated  on  a  plateau  (1891  ft) 
about  a  quarter  mile  from  the  north  entrance  to  the  Notch. 
The  Crawfords,  a  hardy  Scotch  family,  settled  here  in  the 


748  BARTLETT— BRETTON  WOODS 

latter  eighteenth  century;  A.  E.  Crawford,  the  most  famous 
of  White  Mountain  guides,  built  the  first  house  on  the  summit 
of  Mt.  Washington  (p  623).  When  tourists  began  to  come 
to  this  region  in  considerable  numbers,  the  Crawfords  built 
a  hotel  on  this  spot,  which  was  in  its  glory  about  1840. 

The  pool  in  front  of  the  hotel  is  the  source  of  the  Saco  river, 
which  flows  to  the  south  through  the  Notch.  Not  half  a  mile 
north  is  the  source  of  the  Ammonoosuc,  which  flows  north 
and  then  west  to  the  Connecticut  river  (p  363).  Mt.  Willard 
(2786  ft)  commands  a  far-famed  view  down  the  Notch  and 
is  easily  ascended  by  a  good  carriage  road.  Near  the  top  on 
the  south  side  is  the  Devil's  Den,  a  cavern  accessible  by  ropes 
only.  Hitchcock's  Flume,  350  feet  long  and  50  feet  wide,  is 
reached  by  a  path  to  the  left  a  quarter  mile  from  the  summit. 

Bayard  Taylor  has  said  of  the  Notch:  "As  a  simple  picture 
of  a  mountain  pass,  seen  from  above,  it  cannot  be  surpassed 
in  Switzerland."  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  gateway  rise  Mt. 
Webster  and  Mt.  Jackson,  the  southern  sentinels  of  the  Presi- 
dential Range.  Mt.  Field,  named  for  Darby  Field,  who  in 
1642  made  the  first  known  ascent  of  Mt.  Washington,  is  just 
to  the  south.  Crawfords  is  a  splendid  center  for  excursions, 
such  as  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Washington,  and  climbs  in  and 
about  the  Presidential  Range. 

The  road  from  Crawfords  to  Bretton  Woods  descends  a 
pleasant  valley  with  the  great  Presidential  Range  spread  out  on 
the  right  and  the  Franconia  Mountains  on  the  left.  The  eleven 
great  peaks  of  the  Presidential  Range  form  a  line  about  fifteen 
miles  long.  From  south  to  north  the  mountains  are  as  follows: 
Webster  (3875  ft),  Jackson  (4012  ft),  Clinton  (4275  ft),  Pleasant 
(4775  ft),  Franklin  (5028  ft),  Monroe  (5396  ft),  Washington 
(6293  ft).  Clay  (5533  ft),  Jefferson  (5725  ft),  Adams  (5805  ft), 
and  Madison  (5380  ft). 

About  three  miles  from  Crawfords,  the  Upper  Falls  of  the 
Ammonoosuc  river  are  reached  by  following  the  lefthand  road 
past  the  monument  to  E.  A.  Crawford,  one  of  the  earliest  set- 
tlers. The  falls  with  their  granite  walls,  water-worn  basins, 
and  mountain  background  form  a  long  remembered  scene. 
95.0  BRETTON  WOODS  (p  622). 


R.  51.     PORTLAND  to  POLAND  SPRING, 

GORHAM,  and  BRETTON   WOODS.     111.5  m. 

Via  NORWAY,  BETHEL,  and  TWIN  MOUNTAIN,  with  detours  to 

DIXVILLE  NOTCH  and  to  JEFFERSON. 

This  beautiful  route  runs  through  the  popular  watering- 
place  of  Poland  Spring,  and  across  the  hill  country  of  Paris  to 
Bethel,  where  it  follows  the  Androscoggin  river  into  the  White 
Mountains,  past  Gorham  to  Bretton  Woods  or  to  Jefferson. 

The  route  is  State  Highway  throughout,  and  National  High- 
way for  the  most  part.  The  roads  are  good  gravel. 

From  Portland  to  GRAY  (17.0)  follow  Route  53  (p  757). 
Leaving  Gray  by  the  left  fork  in  the  center  of  the  village,  the 
road  leads  north  through  a  hilly  region  past  the  hamlet  of  Dry 
Mills  and  the  summer  colony  at  SABBATH  DAY  LAKE  (21.0)  to 

27.0  POLAND  SPRING.  Alt  593  ft.  Pop  (Poland  twp)  1382.  An- 
droscoggin Co.  Settled  1779. 

This  is  one  of  the  oldest  watering  places  in  the  country. 
Its  cluster  of  modern  hotels  and  parklike  grounds  on  Ricker 
Hill  commands  views  of  the  Range  lakes  and  the  hills  beyond. 

The  settlement  was  established  in  1779  and  became  a  Shaker 
community  in  1783,  converted  by  a  preacher  from  the  original  colony 
of  Lebanon  Springs,  N.Y.  (p  382).  In  1794  Jabez  Ricker,  ancestor  of 
the  present  family  of  hotel  owners,  obtained  the  property.  The  first 
tavern  sign  was  hung  out  by  Wentworth  Ricker,  son  of  Jabez,  in  1797. 
The  Maine  State  Building,  originally  erected  at  the  Columbian  Expo- 
sition in  1893,  was  re-erected  here  and  serves  as  a  library  and  art 
museum  where  an  annual  exhibition  is  held  of  the  work  of  New  York 
and  New  England  artists. 

From  Poland  Spring  the  route  leads  between  Middle  Range 
and  Lower  Range  Ponds  and  through  the  hamlet  of  Poland 
(30.0).  Three  miles  to  the  north  is  Empire  Grove,  where 
'  Camp-meeting  John '  Allen  used  to  hold  forth  on  hell-fire. 

Avoiding  the  right  fork  (to  Mechanic  Falls),  half  a  mile 
beyond  the  route  takes  the  center  road  at  the  triple  fork,  bear- 
ing right  from  the  heavily  traveled  road. 

Note.  -  The  left  fork,  with  the  main  line  of  travel,  leads 
through  Webbs  Mills  (11.5),  and  Cooks  Mills  (15.0)  to  NAPLES 
(19. o)  and  Sebago  and  Long  Lakes  on  Route  50  (p  744). 

Climbing  Pigeon  Hill,  the  route  follows  a  ridge  overlooking 
the  busy  industrial  village  of  Mechanic  Falls  on  the  right  and 
Thompson  Lake  on  the  left,  on  the  western  shore  of  which  is 
Camp  Ohuivo  (p  811).  Descending  through  the  roadside  ham- 
let of  Welchville  (36.5),  the  road  crosses  the  Little  Andros- 
coggin river  and  heads  northwest  up  its  valley  to  the  edge  of 
the  village  of  NORWAY  (42.5),  where  the  route  takes  the  right 
fork  past  the  county  fair  grounds. 

(749) 


75°  NORWAY— RANDOLPH 

NORWAY.     Alt  387  ft.     Pop  (twp)  3002.     Oxford  Co.     Settled  1786. 

Mfg.  lumber  products,  ladies'  shoes,  and  snowshoes. 
Norway  is  a  pleasant  little  country  village  with  small  but 
varied  industries.  Its  most  notable  plant  is  the  snowshoe 
factory  which  made  the  shoes  on  which  Peary  and  his  party 
made  their  successful  dash  to  the  North  Pole.  Just  to  the 
northwest  of  the  village  lies  Great  Pennesseewassee  Pond, 
nine  miles  long,  with  an  irregular  wooded  shore  line. 

44.0  SOUTH  PARIS.  Alt  386  ft.  Pop  1542.  Shire  town  of  Ox- 
ford Co.  Settled  1779.  Mfg.  lumber  and  lumber  products, 
toys,  novelties,  and  canned  goods. 

South  Paris,  a  'toy  center  of  New  England,'  is  a  manufac- 
turing and  mill  village  on  the  Little  Androscoggin  river,  a  mile 
and  a  half  east  of  Norway.  The  Mason  Mfg.  Co.  and  the 
Paris  Mfg.  Co.,  which  make  toy  furniture,  are  locally  known 
as  "Santa  Claus's  workshops"  and  are  said  to  be  worth  visit- 
ing. To  the  north  rises  Paris  Hill  (803  ft)  on  which  is  the 
quiet  hamlet  of  Paris,  overlooking  a  splendid  view  of  the  White 
Mountains  and  the  lake-dotted  highlands  between. 

Note.  Paris  Hill,  well  worth  visiting  for  its  view,  is  reached 
by  forking  right.  This  detour  rejoins  the  main  route  by  left 
fork  on  the  further  slope  of  the  hill. 

The  hill  has  a  country  club,  maintaining  golf  links  and  ten- 
nis courts,  and  a  notable  old  inn.  The  air  here  would  seem 
to  be  especially  adapted  to  political  well-being,  as  this  is  the 
birthplace  of  several  Congressmen,  four  Governors,  Horatio 
King,  Postmaster-general  under  Buchanan,  and  Hannibal 
Hamiin,  Vice-president  with  Lincoln.  The  Hamlin  birth- 
place on  the  left  beyond  the  post  office  is  still  preserved. 

Paris  Hill  is  also  noteworthy  as  the  site  of  Mt.  Mica,  famous 
for  its  tourmaline  mines,  discovered  in  1820  by  Elijah  L. 
Hamlin,  and  worked  intermittently  for  half  a  century.  Green, 
pink,  yellow,  and  blue  crystals  of  great  brilliance  are  found. 

Leaving  South  Paris,  the  route  turns  left  at  the  square  in 
the  village  center  and  forks  to  the  right  just  beyond,  passing 
the  park  on  the  left  and  taking  the  left  fork  a  mile  beyond. 

The  main  route  continues  up  the  valley  of  the  Little  Andros- 
coggin, following  the  middle  road  at  the  triple  fork  (48.5), 
and  running  close  to  the  foot  of  the  steep  bluff  of  Stearns  Hill 
(1000  ft)  through  Snows  Falls  (50.5).  At  the  crossroads  at 
Trap  Corner  (52.5)  the  route  avoids  the  lefthand  road,  to 
West  Paris,  but  takes  the  left  fork  just  beyond  and  winds  over 
the  woody  uplands,  following  the  left  fork  (58.2)  into  the  mill 
village  of  BRYANT  POND  (59.3).  Here  the  road  curves  right, 
past  the  pond  for  which  the  village  is  named,  and  then  between 
North  and  South  Ponds,  at  the  base  of  the  foothills  and  past 


R.  51-  PORTLAND  TO  BRETTON  WOODS  751 

the  spool  factories  in  LOCKE  MILLS  (63.0).  To  the  left  Mt. 
Abram  (1960  ft)  rises  above  a  group  of  hills.  The  road  fol- 
lows the  Alder  river  and  the  R.R.  down  a  pretty  valley  to 
the  meadows  on  the  bend  of  the  Androscoggin  river. 

68.0  BETHEL.  Alt  643  ft.  Pop  (twp)  834.  Oxford  Co.  Settled 
1774.  Mfg.  lumber  and  lumber  products. 

The  attractive  old  town  of  Bethel  lies  on  a  terrace  above 
the  broad  intervales  of  the  Androscoggin.  It  has  a  number 
of  elm-arched  streets,  old  houses,  and  a  pleasant  village  green. 
Bethel  has  developed  into  a  small  summer  resort  on  account 
of  its  fine  situation  and  its  mineral  springs;  it  is  a  stage  line 
terminus  for  several  points  in  the  region.  There  are  several 
attractive  estates  on  the  Androscoggin  meadows. 

This  town  was  granted  to  veterans  of  the  French  and  Indian  Wars 
from  Sudbury,  Mass.  The  last  Indian  attack  on  a  town  in  New 
England  was  made  here  in  August,  1781,  by  a  war  party  from  Canada. 

Note.  The  road  to  Dixville  Notch  leads  north  from  Bethel 
through  wild  and  picturesque  highlands,  passing  the  unim- 
portant country  villages  of  Newry  (74.5),  North  Newry 
(79.5),  Grafton  (90.2),  and  Upton  (95.5),  crosses  the  New 
Hampshire  line  at  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Umbagog,  and 
joins  Route  42  at  ERROL  (105.0;  p  718). 

From  Bethel  the  route  continues  through  the  rich  inter- 
vales of  the  Androscoggin  valley  with  the  White  Mountains 
looming  ever  larger.  The  road  follows  the  south  bank  through 
the  tiny  village  of  Gilead  (78.2)  and  crosses  Wild  River.  Two 
miles  further  on,  it  crosses  the  New  Hampshire  line,  curving 
round  the  slopes  of  Mt.  Moriah  (4065  ft).  This  region  to  the 
left,  genuine  primitive  backwoods,  has  been  taken  over  by 
the  Federal  Government  and  opened  to  homesteaders. 

SHELBURNE  (83.0)  is  a  hamlet  beautifully  situated  by  the 
river  at  the  gateway  to  the  White  Mountains. 

Shelburne  was  chartered  by  the  British  Crown  in  1768.  There 
was  a  proviso  that  all  pine  trees  suitable  for  masts  should  be  held  for 
the  royal  navy.  With  its  "Addition"  of  Gorham,  it  then  formed  the 
most  northern  frontier  town,  while  all  beyond  was  an  unbroken  forest 
through  to  the  Canadian  line. 

The  road  leads  round  Mt.  Winthrop,  a  spur  of  Mt.  Moriah. 
90.0  GORHAM  (p  717). 

Here  the  East  Side  State  Highway,  Route  42,  with  yellow 
markers,  runs  north  to  Dixville  Notch  and  Colebrook. 

From  Gorham  the  road  continues  westward  to 

95.5     RANDOLPH.     Alt  1203  ft.     Pop  (twp)  137.     Coos  Co. 

The  mountain  hamlet  of  Randolph  nestles  in  the  valley  of 
that  name,  hemmed  in  by  Mt.  Madison  (5380  ft)  and  Mt. 
Adams  (5805  ft)  on  the  south,  the  Mt.  Crescent,  or  Randolph, 


752  RANDOLPH— BRETTON  WOODS 

range  (330x2  ft)  on  the  north,  and  the  Carter  range  to  the 
east.  Just  to  the  north  is  Randolph  Mountain  (3280  ft). 

This  is  a  favorite  tourist  center,  especially  for  pedestrians 
and  those  mountain  lovers  who  wish  to  be  in  the  very  midst 
of  the  peaks.  It  is  the  starting  point  of  trails  to  Mts.  Madison, 
Adams,  Jefferson,  Washington,  etc.,  the  famous  tramp  along 
the  summits  of  the  Great  Range.  The  guides  of  Randolph 
have  the  reputation  of  being  the  best  in  the  district. 

From  Randolph  the  route  continues  through  the  valley  of 
the  Moose  river  to  the  little  settlement  of  Bowman  (100.0) 
between  the  Randolph  range  and  Mt.  Bowman  (3490  ft). 

Note.  The  right  fork  leads  to  Jefferson  past  the  summer 
colony  of  Jefferson  Highland  (2.7)  which  has  a  fine  situation 
at  the  base  of  Boy  Mountain  (2240  ft),  the  end  of  the  Ran- 
dolph range.  Here  are  excellent  views  of  the  Presidential  Range. 
As  the  route  continues  Pliny  Mountain  (3625  ft),  Mt.  Waum- 
bek  (4000  ft),  and  Mt.  Starr  King  (3915  ft)  are  ahead. 

JEFFERSON  (7.0;  1437  ft)  stands  on  a  spur  of  Mt.  Starr  King 
commanding  the  valley  of  Israel  River.  Cottage  life  has  prob- 
ably been  developed  in  Jefferson  and  in  Jefferson  Highland 
more  than  in  many  White  Mountain  resorts. 

The  views  of  the  northern  side  of  the  Presidential  Range  are 
justly  celebrated.  Says  Starr  King:  "The  White  Mountain 
Range  is  so  much  grander  when  seen  from  Jefferson  than  from 
any  other  point  where  the  whole  of  it  is  displayed."  The 
summer  colony  here  owes  its  creation  largely  to  Starr  King, 
who  made  the  scenery  widely  known  by  his  writings. 

Perhaps  the  most  popular  excursion  is  the  ascent  of  Mt. 
Starr  King  (3915  ft),  the  southernmost  summit  of  the  Pilot 
range.  The  well-marked  path  to  the  top"  (1^2  to  2^2  hrs.) 
starts  near  the  Waumbek  Hotel.  Cherry  Mountain  (3600  ft) 
is  also  frequently  ascended  from  here.  The  views  of  the 
Presidential  Range  from  both  of  these  peaks  are  unsurpassed. 

Jefferson  was  settled  in  1772  by  Colonel  Joseph  Whipple,  who 
exercised  a  sort  of  patriarchal  sway  over  the  adjacent  country.  Once 
a  year  he  went  to  Portsmouth  to  carry  down  the  surplus  products  of 
the  valley  and  to  bring  up  supplies  for  his  tenantry.  Numerous  quaint 
legends  have  lingered  about  this  region  of  the  mountains;  the  Skel- 
eton Indian  in  the  Speaking  Storm,  the  Magic  Stone,  the  Lonely  Hunter 
on  Mt.  Adam,  and  the  Great  Spirit,  and  others. 

The  main  route  at  Bowman  forks  to  the  left,  following  the 
attractive  valley  of  Israel  River  to  MEADOWS  (97.3),  a  pretty 
little  village  with  a  most  appropriate  name.  Here  the  route 
forks  once  more.  The  right  fork  leads  to  Whitefield  (p  364). 

Following  the  left  fork,  the  route  leads  to  TWIN  MOUNTAIN 
(106.3)  and  follows  Route  34  (p  621)  to 
111.5     BRETTON   WOODS  (p   622). 


R.  52.     PORTLAND  to  AUBURN,  FARMINGTON, 

and  RANGELEY.     254.0  m. 
RETURNING  via  SKOWHEGAN  to  BANGOR. 

This  route  leads  northward  by  the  prosperous  manufactur- 
ing cities  of  Auburn  and  Lewiston,  up  the  Androscoggin  valley 
to  Livermore  Falls,  and  thence  through  the  woods  to  the  vaca- 
tion land  of  the  Rangeley  Lakes,  with  its  hunting  and  fishing. 
Returning  by  way  of  Flagstaff  Lake  and  Dead  River,  the  route 
crosses  the  Kennebec  at  Anson,  and  passes  through  the  dairy 
country  of  Skowhegan  to  the  Newport  road  and  Bangor.  The 
roads  are  State  Highway  throughout,  except  the  section  from 
Rangeley  across  to  Anson,  which  is  good  county  and  town  road. 

For  Portland  to  Auburn,  see  Route  53  (p  757). 

R.  52  §  1.     Portland  to  Farmington.  78.5  m. 

The  road  is  a  State  Highway  leading  up  the  Androscoggin 
valley,  about  two  miles  from  the  river,  to  the  industrial  village 
of  Livermore  Falls  and  thence  across  the  watershed  to  the 
Sandy  River  valley  and  the  little  town  of  Farmington. 

Following  Route  53  (p  757)  from  Portland  to  Auburn 
(33-5))  tne  route  leaves  Auburn  by  Turner  St.,  at  the  Court 
House,  corner  of  Court  St.,  following  the  trolley  into  Center 
St.  and  forking  away  from  the  river.  At  the  village  of  East 
Auburn  (37.0)  is  beautiful  Lake  Auburn  on  the  left.  The 
route  follows  trolley  along  the  shore  and  past  the  Maine  Fish 
Hatchery  on  the  left,  a  mile  beyond.  At  the  fork  (39.5),  the 
route  bears  right,  leaving  trolley  and  climbing  Poplar  Hill. 
The  left  fork  leads  to  North  Auburn  and  East  Hebron,  where 
Camp  Mowglis,  for  boys,  is  situated. 

The  route  follows  the  crest  above  the  Androscoggin  river, 
on  the  right,  through  HOWE'S  CORNER  (50.0).  Five  miles 
beyond,  by  Bartlett  Pond,  on  the  right,  is  The  Norlands,  the 
handsome  Washburne  estate.  Half  a  century  ago  three  Wash- 
burne  brothers  achieved  distinction,  one  as  Governor  of 
Maine  (1861-63),  another  as  Minister  to  France  (1869-76), 
and  the  third  as  Governor  of  Wisconsin  (1871).  A  little  fur- 
ther on,  at  the  crossroads  by  Norland  Church  and  the  stone 
library  (55.5),  the  route  turns  right  and  takes  the  next  left- 
hand  road,  between  the  hills  and  past  Long  Pond,  down  to 

61.0  LIVERMORE  FALLS.  Alt  388  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1110.  An- 
droscoggin Co.  Settled  1795.  Indian  name  Rockamena, 
"great  corn  land."  Mfg.  paper,  pulp,  and  barrels. 

Livermore  Falls  is  an  industrial  village  on  the  Androscoggin 

with  paper  and  pulp  mills.     It  is  noted  for  fine  breeds  of  cattle. 

The  road  turns  left  through  the  main  street  and  follows  the 

(753) 


754  LIVERMORE  FALLS— RANGELEY 

river  for  two  miles  and  a  half,  and  then  forking  right,  uphill, 
runs  parallel  to  R.R.  across  a  rolling  country  through  the 
hamlet  of  North  Jay  (67.5),  where  there  are  large  granite 
quarries,  to  the  shopping  center  of  WILTON  (70.5;  p  741). 
Irving  J.  McColl's  Camp,  Kineowatha,  is  located  here  (p  810). 
Passing  the  white  building  of  the  village  Academy,  on  the 
right,  the  road  still  follows  the  course  of  the  R.R.  northward 
through  the  hamlet  of  East  Wilton  (73.5);  where  it  crosses  the 
tracks  and  bears  left,  beside  R.R.,  into  Sandy  River  valley. 

78.5  FARMINGTON.  Alt  368  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3210.  Shire  town  of 
Franklin  Co.  Settled  1776.  Mfg.  lumber,  lumber  prod- 
ucts, canned  corn,  and  apples. 

Farmington  is  an  attractive  old  village  with  lumber  and 
grist  mills  and  canning  factories.  A  tablet  marks  Fewacres, 
the  home  of  the  Rev.  Jacob  Abbott,  a  classmate  of  Longfellow 
(1803-79),  the  author  of  the  "Rollo  Books"  and  the  "Fran- 
conia  Stories."  Farmington  was  the  birthplace  of  the  opera 
star  Lillian  Nordica. 

Route  49  from  Bretton  Woods  to  Bangor  crosses  here  (p  741). 

R.  52  §  2.     Farmington  to  Rangeley.  40.5  m. 

The  route  now  enters  a  thinly  settled  region,  ascending  the 
Sandy  river  valley  to  Rangeley.  The  chief  feature  of  this 
section  of  the  route  is  the  continuous  panorama  of  lake  and 
woodland.  The  road  is  gravel  surfaced  State  Highway.  From 
Madrid  to  Rangeley  it  winds  uphill  with  sharp  turns. 

From  Farmington  follow  Main  St.,  parallel  to  the  narrow 
gauge  R.R.,  crossing  the  river  at  Fairbanks  (2.5)  and  running 
along  the  west  bank  to  STRONG  (n.o). 

Turn  left  beside  the  river  and  continue  on  the  main  road 
through  the  villages  of  Phillips  (18.0)  and  MADRID  (25.0). 
From  Madrid  the  road  is  winding  with  sudden  ascents. 

40.5  RANGELEY.  Alt  1521  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1154.  Franklin  Co. 
Settled  1817. 

Rangeley,  the  principal  town  of  this  region  and  a  noted  sum- 
mer resort,  with  the  Rangeley  Lake  House  and  various  camps, 
is  situated  at  the  eastern  or  lower  end  of  Oquossoc  or  Rangeley 
Lake.  Nine  miles  further  on  is  Haynes  Landing,  another 
resort,  on  Lake  Mooselookmeguntic. 

The  first  settler,  Deacon  Luther  Hoar,  came  from  Massachusetts 
and  cleared  a  few  acres  on  the  north  shore  two  miles  west  of  the  present 
village.  In  1825,  Squire  James  Rangeley,  an  Englishman,  bought  the 
township  and  gave  his  name- to  the  region.  He  built  a  sawmill  and 
spent  money  on  improvements  in  the  fruitless  attempt  to  form  a 
domain  on  the  English  landlord  system.  Now  most  of  the  wild  lands 
of  the  Rangeley  Plantation  are  in  the  possession  of  the  company  which 
leases  the  camp  sites. 


R.  52  §  3.     RANGELEY  TO  BANGOR  755 

This  chain  of  half  a  dozen  or  more  lakes,  1500  feet  above 
the  sea,  extending  over  an  area  of  80  square  miles,  and  con- 
nected by  waterways,  is  probably  the  best  known  and  most 
visited  fishing  ground  of  New  England.  Rangeley  Lake,  or 
Oquossoc,  the  northeasternmost  of  the  group,  is  nine  miles 
long  and  1-3  miles  wide.  Little  steamers  ply  from  the  town 
of  Rangeley  to  various  points  on  the  lake.  Next  in  order  is 
Lake  Mooselookmeguntic  (8x2  m.),  with  camps  and  hotels 
at  Haynes  Landing,  Bald  Mountain  Camps,  the  Birches, 
Bemis,  Upper  Dam,  etc.  Connected  with  this  lake  on  the  north 
is  the  smaller  Lake  Cupsuptic.  Below  the  Upper  Dam  are 
lakes  Molechunkamunk  (Upper  Richardson;  5  x  1-2  m.),  and 
Welokenbacook  (Lower  Richardson;  5x1-2  m.).  From  the 
Middle  Dam  on  the  west  side  of  this  latter,  a  road  leads  to 
Lake  Umbagog  (9  x  1-2  m.;  1256  ft),  connecting  with  Errol 
Dam  and  the  Dixville  Notch  (R.  34).  From  Errol,  little 
steamers  run  up  the  Magalloway  river  to  (30.0)  Lake  Parma- 
chenee  (2500  ft),  a  fishing  resort  in  the  midst  of  a  wild  country. 

R.  52  §  3.  Rangeley  to  Bangor.  135.0  m. 

Via  STRATTON  and  SKOWHEGAN. 

For  the  first  sixty  miles  this  route  lies  along  the  border  of 
the  great  Maine  wilderness  with  its  vast  forests  of  pine  and 
spruce.  STRATTON  is  the  center  of  the  Dead  river  region,  a 
sportsman's  country  of  beautiful  lakes  and  streams.  The 
towns  of  Stratton  and  Eustis  with  good  hotel  accommodations 
are  the  centers  of  this  region,  and  guides  may  be  obtained  here 
for  hunting  and  fishing  trips. 

The  route  follows  town  and  county  roads,  nearly  all  of  them 
excellent,  either  gravel  or  dirt  surface. 

The  vast  forested  area  of  Maine,  one  of  the  great  lumber  regions  of 
the  world,  covers  20,000  square  miles,  seven  times  larger  than  the 
Black  Forest  of  Germany.  "The  States  of  Rhode  Island,  Connecti- 
cut, and  Delaware  could  be  lost  together  in  our  northern  forests,  and 
still  have  about  each  a  margin  of  wilderness  sufficiently  wide  to  make 
the  exploration  without  a  compass  a  work  of  desperate  adventure." 

Says  Sylvester  Baxter:  "Maine's  magnificent  wilderness, — woods 
and  rivers,  hills,  lakes,  and  clear-running  streams, — is  a  great  natural 
playground  for  the  country  at  large.  But  these  things  mean  more 
than  play, — they  mean  great  industrial  possibilities  under  modern 
conditions.  More  than  five  thousand  rivers  and  streams,  with  more 
than  fifteen  hundred  lakes  for  their  reservoirs,  stand  for  vast  possibil- 
ities in  the  way  of  power." 

The  route  leaves  Rangeley  by  Pleasant  St.,  turning  right  at 
the  school  house  on  the  left,  and  crossing  narrow  gauge  R.R. 
After  crossing  the  bridge  (5.5),  the  route  turns  left  at  the  cross- 
roads and  crosses  the  tracks  six  times  in  as  many  miles.  At 
the  end  of  the  road  (15.0),  the  route  turns  right  and  enters  the 


756  RANGELEY— SKOWHEGAN 

village  of  STRATTON  (20.0),  from  which  many  good  roads 
radiate  through  the  Dead  river  country.  Bearing  left  in  front 
of  the  school  house,  the  road  continues  past  the  fair  grounds 
and  turns  right  at  the  school  and  the  Flagstaff  signpost  (24.3). 

31.0     FLAGSTAFF.     Alt  1400  ft.     Pop  (Plantation}  149. 

This  hamlet  was  named  to  commemorate  the  encampment 
of  the  Quebec  expedition  under  Benedict  Arnold,  in  1775,  who 
erected  the  national  standard  here. 

Half  a  mile  out  of  the  village  the  route  forks  right  and  turns 
left  at  the  sign  post  a  quarter  mile  beyond.  At  DEAD  RIVER 
(40.0),  the  route  takes  the  left  fork  and  eight  miles  beyond 
crosses  the  height  of  land  between  the  Sandy  and  the  Dead 
rivers,  descending  rather  steeply  for  three  miles.  Passing 
through  Lexington  (53.5),  the  route  forks  right,  six  miles 
beyond,  and  again  two  miles  further  on,  and  goes  straight 
through  NORTH  NEW  PORTLAND  (62.0).  The  township  was 
given  to  sufferers  of  Portland  to  indemnify  them  for  the  de- 
struction of  the  city  by  the  British  (p  682)  in  1783;  hence  its 
name. 

The  route  now  meets  the  Carrabassett  river  and  follows  its 
north  bank  to 

71.0  NORTH  ANSON.  Alt  330  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2209.  Somerset  Co. 
Settled  1798.  Stock  breeding.  Mjg.  lumber  and  canned 
corn. 

This  riverside  town  lies  in  the  meadows  a  mile  west  of  the 
junction  of  the  Carrabassett  and  Kennebec  rivers.  The  numer- 
ous stock  farms  make  it  a  horse  and  cattle  trading  center. 

At  the  end  of  the  street  the  route  turns  left  three  blocks 
and  then  right,  at  the  church.  Crossing  the  Kennebec,  it 
leads  eastward  over  low  hills  to 

83.5     SKOWHEGAN  (R.  55,  p  784). 

Route  55  (p  784)  leads  south  to  Augusta  and  Portland. 
Route  49  (p  740)  leads  west  to  the  White  Mountains. 

The  route  follows  Water  St.,  past  the  municipal  buildings, 
and  leads  eastward,  leaving  the  Kennebec,  through  a  pretty 
farming  country  interspersed  with  patches  of  woodland.  A 
mile  and  a  half  beyond  Lake  George,  on  the  left,  it  passes 
through  the  crossroads  village  of  Canaan  (92.0),  and  then 
continues  straight  on  over  the  hills  through  the  quiet  little 
town  of  Palmyra  (103.7)  to  NEWPORT  (108.0),  where  it  joins 
Route  53  (p  760)  for  BANGOR  (135.0). 


R.  53.     PORTLAND  to  AUGUSTA,  WATERVILLE, 

and  BANGOR.      140.0  m. 
Via  AUBURN,  BELGRADE  LAKES,  and  the  KENNEBEC. 

The  route  follows  State  and  National  Highways  through  a 
pleasant  farming  country  over  good  dirt  roads  with  no  heavy 
grades.  Among  the  chief  points  of  interest  are  the  industrial 
centers  of  Auburn  and  Lewiston  on  the  Androscoggin,  the 
lovely  Belgrade  Lakes,  Augusta,  the  State  Capital,  and  Bangor, 
one  of  the  world's  great  lumber  markets. 

The  route  leaves  Portland  by  way  of  Washington  Ave.  and 
Tukey  Bridge,  keeping  to  the  left  along  Washington  Ave.  in 
the  suburban  village  of  East  Deering,  just  across  the  bridge, 
and  passing  through  North  Deering  (4.0),  a  quiet  roadside 
village,  where  the  road  heads  north,  and  continues  through 
West  Falmouth  (7.0)  to 

17.0  GRAY.  Alt  300 ft.  Pop  (twp)  1270.  Cumberland  Co.  Set.  1750. 
At  this  quiet  village  on  the  upland  meadows,  the  route 
keeps  on  past  the  Soldiers'  Monument.  Camp  Minnewawa, 
a  summer  camp  for  boys,  is  located  near  here.  The  left  fork 
leads  to  Poland  Spring  (p  749).  Taking  the  left  fork  at  the 
Lewiston  sign  post,  a  quarter  mile  beyond,  the  road  continues 
northward  through  the  hamlet  of  North  Gray  (19.5),  and  a 
mile  and  three  quarters  further  on,  forks  left  through  wood- 
land, climbing  over  Gloucester  Hill  into  Upper  Gloucester 
(24.5),  a  crossroads  village.  Here  the  route  forks  to  the 
right  over  the  hill  to  Danville  Junction  (27.0)  where  it  crosses 
and  bears  to  the  left,  between  the  R.R.  station  and  the  Post 
Office.  Following  the  R.R.  tracks,  it  soon  enters 

33.5  AUBURN.  Alt  183  ft.  Pop  15,064.  Shire  town  of  Andros- 
coggin Co.  Settled  1786.  Mfg.  shoes  and  cotton. 
Auburn  is  a  shoe  city  on  the  Androscoggin  opposite  Lewiston 
with  which  it  forms  an  industrial  center.  This  is  the  fourth 
largest  manufacturing  center  in  the  State  and  about  three 
quarters  of  the  wage  earners  are  engaged  in  the  shoe  industry. 
Auburn  took  its  name  from  the  village  in  Goldsmith's  poem 
"The  Deserted  Village."  Four  steel  bridges  across  the 
Androscoggin  connect  Auburn  with  Lewiston,  and  from  the 
bridges  there  is  the  best  view  of  the  falls.  Route  52  (p  753) 
branches  here  for  the  Rangeley  Lakes. 

34.0     LEWISTON.     Alt  190  ft.     Pop  26,247;  one  third  foreign-born. 

largely  French-Canadian.     Androscoggin  Co.     Settled  1770. 

Mfg.  cotton,  woolens,  and  shoes. 

Lewiston,  the  second  city  in  Maine,  the  center  of  cotton 
manufacturing  in  the  State  and  the  seat  of  Bates  College,  lies 
at  the  great  falls  of  the  Androscoggin.  The  river  breaks  over 

(757) 


758  LEWISTON— AUGUSTA 

a  ledge  of  schist  and  pegmatite  with  a  natural  fall  of  forty  feet 
which  is  increased  to  over  fifty  feet  by  a  strong  granite  dam, 
and  the  resulting  power  is  distributed  by  canals.  At  Deer 
Rips,  three  miles  above  the  city,  a  cement  dam  more  than 
1000  feet  long  furnishes  10,000  hydro-electric  horsepower. 
Lewiston  produces  a  third  of  the  cotton  goods  of  the  State. 

There  is  a  fine  City  Hall  with  a  lofty  tower,  a  Carnegie 
Library,  and  a  Soldiers'  Monument  in  bronze  by  Franklin 
Simmons,  known  for  his  statues  of  Roger  Williams,  U.S.  Grant, 
and  others  in  the  National  Capitol. 

Leaving  Lewiston  by  way  of  Main  St.,  the  route  leads  north- 
ward through  a  somewhat  hilly  country,  following  the  highway 
through  the  village  of  Greene  (42.0),  striking  to  the  left  away 
from  the  R.R.  a  mile  and  a  half  beyond. 

The  route  climbs  up  past  the  Maine  Agricultural  Experi- 
ment Station,  at  Highmoor  Farm  (46.5)  on  Norris  Hill,  and 
crosses  a  country  dotted  with  lakes  and  ponds.  The  road 
winds  downward  to 

S4.3  WINTHROP.  Alt  221  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2114.  Kennebec  Co. 
Settled  1765.  Mfg.  oilcloth  and  woolens. 

Winthrop,  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  lake  country,  is  the 
center  of  a  noted  apple-growing  region.  The  village  is  on 
a  neck  between  Lake  Maranacook,  nine  miles  long  and  one 
mile  wide,  and  Lake  Annabessacook,  both  with  lovely  winding 
shores  and  dotted  with  picturesque  islands.  Called  Pond 
Town  by  the  early  trappers  because  of  the  many  lakes,  it  was, 
on  incorporation  in  1771,  named  in  honor  of  Governor  Winthrop 
of  Massachusetts. 

Turning  to  the  right,  across  R.R.,  and  through  the  village, 
the  route  continues  eastward  past  Lake  Cobbosseecontee,  a 
good  trout  and  bass  lake,  and  part  of  the  chain  which  com- 
prises Belgrade  Lakes,  Maranacook,  Cobbosseecontee,  and 
Pleasant  Ponds,  all  of  which  find  an  outlet  into  the  Kennebec 
river.  Camp  Cobbossee,  for  boys,  is  located  here. 

The  route  next  goes  straight  through  the  crossroads  village 
of  Manchester  (60.0),  and  follows  the  main  road  into 

64.5  AUGUSTA.  Alt  47  ft.  Pop  13,211.  Capital  of  the  State ,  and 
shire  town  of  Kennebec  Co.  Settled  1754.  Mfg.  cotton, 
shoes,  paper,  and  wood  pulp.  Steamboats  connect  daily 
with  Bath  and  Boston. 

Augusta,  a  manufacturing  center,  lies  on  both  sides  of  the 
Kennebec  (p  767)  on  a  series  of  terraces.  The  river  here  is 
spanned  by  a  bridge  noo  feet  long.  Half  a  mile  above  the 
city  is  the  huge  Kennebec  Dam  which  provides  waterpower 
for  its  factories.  The  city  publishes  many  periodicals,  mostly 
of  the  type  which  finds  a  wide  circulation  in  rural  communities. 


R.   53.     PORTLAND,  AUGUSTA,  WATERVILLE,  BANGOR         759 

The  State  House  (1831)  on  State  St.  was  designed  by  Charles 
Bulfinch.  It  is  constructed  of  local  granite  and  in  its  main 
features  it  resembles  the  Boston  State  House.  The  lofty 
dome  (185  ft)  and  the  wings  were  added  in  1910.  Beyond, 
on  the  same  side  of  the  street,  is  the  house  which  was  formerly 
occupied  by  James  G.  Blaine,  the  statesman.  The  handsome 
new  granite  residence  of  Governor  Hill  on  State  St.  cost 
$300,000.  Among  the  older  places  is  the  Ruel  Williams  house 
of  1800,  where  President  Polk  was  entertained  in  1847  when 
he  visited  Augusta  with  James  Buchanan.  The  most  inter- 
esting building  historically,  however,  is  Fort  Western,  erected 
in  1754,  the  main  part  of  which  still  stands  at  the  east  end 
of  the  bridge  opposite  the  City  Hall,  marked  by  a  tablet.  The 
old  Britt  house  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river  was  built  by  a 
Hessian  soldier  at  the  close  of  the  Revolution,  and  the  seventh 
generation  now  occupies  it.  On  the  east  side  of  the  river  are 
the  State  Insane  Asylum  and  the  Kennebec  Arsenal. 

About  five  miles  to  the  southeast  of  the  city  is  Togus  Springs, 
formerly  a  summer  resort,  but  since  1866  the  site  of  a  Soldiers' 
Home  which  accommodates  more  than  2000.  It  has  become 
a  notorious  resort  for  rumsellers  who  prey  on  the  veterans. 

The  river  was  explored  to  this  point  in  1607.  The  city  occupies 
the  site  of  the  Indian  village  of  Koussinoc  at  which  the  Plymouth  Com- 
pany located  a  trading  post  in  1628.  In  1661  the  Plymouth  Company 
sold  its  interests  and  soon  afterward  the  purchasers  abandoned  the 
post,  but  in  1754  their  heirs  brought  about  the  erection  of  Fort  West- 
ern, a  part  of  which  is  still  standing.  The  settlement  was  originally 
a  part  of  Hallo  well,  but  in  1797  it  was  separated  from  that  town  and 
named  Harrington,  and  later  in  the  same  year  the  name  was  changed 
to  Augusta.  In  1827  it  was  chosen  by  the  Maine  Legislature  to  be 
the  capital,  but  it  was  not  occupied  as  such  until  the  completion  of  the 
State  House  in  1831. 

Alternate  Route  to  Waterville  via  the  Belgrade  Lakes.   23.0  m. 

From  Augusta  to  Waterville  a  State  Road  three  and  a  half 
miles  longer  than  the  main  route  leads  by  the  beautiful  Bel- 
grade Lakes.  Leaving  Augusta  by  State  St.  and  continuing 
along  Mt.  Vernon  Ave.,  the  route  turns  left  along  Bond  Brook 
Road,  on  the  edge  of  the  city,  and  passes  through  the  village 
of  BELGRADE  (n.o),  on  the  swampy  border  of  Messalonskee 
Lake.  On  Blake's  Island  is  Camp  Belgrade,  for  boys.  The 
road  forks  right  for  Waterville,  a  mile  beyond.  The  left  fork 
leads  to  Belgrade  Lakes,  eight  miles  away. 

THE  BELGRADE  LAKES,  seven  in  number,  are  famous  for 
their  bass  fishing  and  also  as  the  center  of  a  summer  life  which 
is  even  more  important  than  the  spring  invasion  of  the  sports- 
men. The  village  of  Belgrade  Lakes  is  a  hotel  center  on  the 
neck  of  land  between  Great  Pond,  the  largest  of  the  chain, 
eleven  miles  long,  and  Long  Pond,  further  west.  There  are 


760  AUGUSTA— BANGOR 

many  popular  summer  camps  for  boys  and  girls  on  the  shores 
of  the  lakes.  On  Great  Pond  are  Camps  Merryweather  and 
Pine  Island,  for  boys,  and  Runoia  and  Abena,  for  girls  (p  810). 
Further  north,  on  Salmon  Lake,  are  Camp  Kennebec,  for  boys, 
and  Glen  Eyrie,  for  girls.  A  Fish  Hatchery  has  been  estab- 
lished here  which  stocks  the  region  with  trout  and  salmon. 

The  route  follows  the  ridge  above  Messalonskee  through 
the  village  of  Oakland,  turning  right  to  Waterville  (23.0). 

The  main  route  leaves  Augusta  by  way  of  Grove  and  Bridge 
Sts.,  crossing  the  Kennebec  river  and  turning  north  along  the 
riverbank  past  the  waterpower  dam  half  a  mile  above  the  city, 
and  through  the  village  of  Vassalboro  (76.5),  the  home  of 
Camp  Minnewawa,  for  girls  (p  814).  At  Winslow  (82.7),  where 
there  is  a  Colonial  blockhouse,  Fort  Halifax  (1754),  the  route 
crosses  the  river  again  into 

84.0  WATERVILLE.  Alt  112  ft.  Pop  11,458.  Kennebec  Co. 
Settled  1764.  Mfg.  cotton  and  woolens,  paper  and  pulp, 
furniture,  machinery,  and  flour. 

Waterville  is  a  thriving  manufacturing  city  at  the  Ticonic 
Falls  on  the  Kennebec.  The  town  is  built  for  the  most  part 
upon  a  broad  plain  above  the  river,  and  is  the  home  of  Colby 
College,  founded  in  1813, — a  Baptist  institution  with  about  450 
students.  General  Ben  Butler  (1818-93)  was  an  alumnus. 

Leaving  Waterville  by  Main  St.,  the  route  leads  northward 
past  Colby  College  to 

87. S  F AIRFIELD.  Alt  117  ft.  Pop  2801.  Somerset  Co.  Settled 
1774.  Mfg.  lumber,  worsted,  pulp,  and  furniture. 

Here  the  road  crosses  the  Kennebec  once  more,  turning  left 
and  then  right  at  R.R.  crossing,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  beyond 
turning  left  through  the  scattered  village  of  Benton  (90.0) 
and  following  the  Sebasticook  river  to  Clinton  (94.0).  Eight 
miles  east  of  Clinton  at  Unity  is  Camp  Winnecook  (p  811). 

The  route  continues  up  the  river  valley  to  the  little  industrial 
town  of  Pittsfield  (106.5),  not  named  for  the  English  statesman 
(P  386),  but  for  a  native  plutocrat  of  a  century  ago.  It  is  the 
home  of  the  Maine  Central  Institute.  Woolens  are  manu- 
factured here.  Llewellyn  Powers,  one  of  Maine's  eminent 
lawyers,  who  was  Governor  and  also  Congressman,  lived  in 
the  old  Powers  homestead  near  the  high  road. 

Crossing  two  bridges,  the  road  turns  right  on  Grove  St., 
and  climbs  over  the  hills,  keeping  to  the  left  of  R.R.,  to 

114.0    NEWPORT.     Alt   195  ft.     Pop    (twp)   1747.    Penobscot   Co. 
Settled  1808.     Mfg.  woolens,  condensed  milk,  and  veneer. 
The  town  is  picturesquely  located  on  the  shores  of  Sebasti- 
cook Lake,  which  is  famous  as  a  fishing  resort  and  has  many 
camps  and  cottages  on  its  shores.     Route  56  (p  786)  forks  here. 


R.   53      PORTLAND,  AUGUSTA,  WATERVILLE,  BANGOR         761 

The  road  from  here  to  Bangor  is  State  Highway  recently 
constructed.  It  follows  the  course  of  the  R.R.,  passing 
through  the  villages  of  Etna  (112.0),  Carmel  (125.5),  and 
Hermon  (132.5)  to 

140.0  BANGOR.  Alt  20  ft.  Pop  24,803.  Penobscot  Co.  Settled 
1769.  Port  of  Entry.  Mfg.  lumber,  foundry  products,  shoes, 
woolens,  paper,  and  pulp.  Steamboats  connect  daily  with 
Bucksport,  Belfast,  Camden,  Rockland,  and  Boston. 

Bangor,  the  third  city  in  Maine,  and  next  to  Chicago  the 
greatest  lumber  depot  in  the  country,  with  annual  shipments 
of  about  200,000,000  feet,  has  a  fine  situation  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Kenduskeag  with  the  Penobscot  (p  788).  The  business 
portion  of  the  city  lies  along  the  banks  of  the  Kenduskeag 
and  for  three  miles  along  the  west  bank  of  the  Penobscot,  and 
there  are  a  number  of  fine  residences  on  the  hillsides  further 
back.  The  Penobscot  furnishes  good  waterpower  and  in 
addition  to  the  lumber  mills  there  are  iron  foundries,  shoe 
factories,  and  shipyards.  Bangor  is  the  center  of  some  for- 
eign commerce,  of  a  considerable  coasting  trade,  and  in  winter 
ships  quantities  of  ice  cut  on  the  Penobscot.  The  tide  rises 
here  17  feet  and  makes  the  Penobscot  navigable  for  large  ves- 
sels to  this  point.  A  bridge  1300  feet  long  connects  the  city 
with  Brewer  (pop  5667),  on  the  eastern  bank. 

Bangor  is  a  well  built  city  and  contains  a  number  of  old 
residences,  the  most  interesting  of  which  is  the  former  home  of 
Hannibal  Hamlin,  vice-president  with  Lincoln.  Here  are 
the  buildings  of  the  Bangor  Theological  Seminary,  opened  in 
Hampden  in  1817  and  moved  to  Bangor  three  years  later.  A 
great  fire  in  1911  caused  $4,000,000  damage  and  since  then 
the  city  has  been  rebuilt  upon  a  more  substantial  scale  with 
a  far  smaller  proportion  of  wooden  buildings.  The  Federal 
Building  and  the  Public  Library  (1913)  and  the  High  School, 
all  recently  built,  are  worth  seeing.  The  Eastern  Maine 
Music  Festival  is  held  here  in  October. 

There  is  very  attractive  scenery  up  the  Kenduskeag  stream, 
especially  at  Lover's  Leap,  a  mile  above  the  city.  At  the 
Bangor  salmon  pool  on  the  Penobscot,  a  mile  upstream, 
salmon  are  taken  on  the  fly,  probably  the  only  place  in  the 
country  where  it  is  possible  to  do  this  within  city  limits. 

The  lumber  industry  has  declined  somewhat  in  recent  years, 
but  150-200  million  feet  of  lumber  (mostly  spruce)  are  still 
annually  surveyed  here.  In  the  spring  the  log  drives  from 
the  vast  forests  of  northern  Maine  finally  bring  up  at  the 
Penobscot  'boom,'  some  miles  above  Old  Town,  where  the  logs 
are  sorted  and  rafted.  Above  the  city  there  are  waterpower 
sawmills,  and  at  Brewer  and  below  the  city  are  steam  mills. 


762  BANGOR 

According  to  some  antiquarians  Bangor  is  the  site  of  Norumbega, 
that  elusive  city  of  the  Norsemen.  At  the  time  of  the  early  colonists, 
it  was  one  of  the  principal  camping  grounds  of  the  Tarratine  Indians, 
the  leading  tribe  of  this  part  of  Maine,  over  whom  Baron  St.  Castine 
later  became  chief  (p  774).  Authentic  history  begins  here  in  1769 
with  the  arrival  of  the  first  white  settlers,  and  the  place  was  called 
Conduskeag  from  the  Indian  name  of  the  locality.  It  was  incor- 
porated in  1791,  and  through  the  influence  of  the  Rev.  Seth  Noble, 
the  first  pastor,  the  town  was  called  Bangor,  the  name  of  one  of  the 
clergyman's  favorite  hymns.  In  September,  1814,  a  British  force 
occupied  the  town  for  several  days  and  destroyed  the  shipping  in  the 
harbor.  It  was  chartered  as  a  city  in  1834.  Two  years  later,  the 
first  railway  in  Maine  was  constructed  between  Bangor  and  Old  Town. 

Route  57  (p  788)  leads  up  Ihe  Penobscot  to  Houlton. 

Note.  From  Bangor  a  27-mile  run  leads  to  Ellsworth, 
whence  routes  lead  to  Bar  Harbor,  Calais,  or  westward  along 
the  coast  to  Portland,  etc.  The  road  crosses  the  Penobscot 
and  leads  straight  through  Brewer,  out  into  a  beautiful  hill 
and  lake  country.  The  route  then  leads  through  the  pretty 
hill  village  of  East  Holden  (9.0)  and  by  Phillips  Lake,  a  little 
summer  resort.  About  half  a  mile  beyond  on  the  left  is  a 
watering  trough  with  a  fine  spring  of  drinking  water.  Passing 
Green  Lake  (15.0)  on  the  shore  of  which  is  a  U.S.  Fish  Hatchery, 
the  route  bears  left  at  fork  in  the  hamlet  of  North  Ellsworth 
(20.0),  and  climbs  a  slight  hill  to  ELLSWORTH  (27.0). 

For  Mt.  Desert  and  Bar  Harbor,  see  Route  54  (p  776),  and 
also  for  the  routes  to  Calais  or  to  Portland. 


R.  54.     PORTLAND  to  CALAIS.  245.0  m. 

Along  the  Maine  Coast. 

Via  BATH,  CAMDEN,  BELFAST,  BUCKSPORT,  ELLSWORTH,  WIN- 
TER HARBOR,  and  MACHIAS,  with  detours  to  BOOTHBAY, 
CASTINE,  BAR  HARBOR,  and  EASTPORT. 

This  is  Maine's  chief  highway,  following  the  coast  and 
leading  to  the  many  summer  resorts  and  the  Maritime  Prov- 
inces beyond.  The  coast  is  so  deeply  indented  that  the  road 
necessarily  runs  for  most  of  its  course  well  inland,  crossing 
the  heads  of  the  deepest  estuaries.  No  other  route  affords 
such  a  combination  of  rocky  shore  and  mountain  scenery. 
The  route  passes  through  Bath,  famous  as  a  shipbuilding 
center;  Brunswick,  the  home  of  Bowdoin  College;  Rockland, 
with  its  huge  lime  kilns  and  views  over  Penobscot  Bay;  and 
through  the  mountain  scenery  of  Camden.  Detours  from 
the  direct  route  lead  to  Old  Castine,  historically  perhaps  one 
of  the  most  interesting  spots  in  America;  to  Mt.  Desert  and 
Bar  Harbor,  America's  most  aristocratic  summer  resort. 

This  route  is  a  part  of  the  National  Highway  system  and 
except  for  the  brief  stretch  from  Prospect  to  Ellsworth,  the 
route  follows  throughout  its  course  State  Highway,  most  of 
which  has  recently  been  reconstructed  by  the  State  Highway 
Commission  constituted  by  the  Legislature  in  1913.  It  is 
proposed  to  name  this  the  Hannibal  Hamlin  Highway,  in 
honor  of  the  most  distinguished  member  of  the  Hamlin  family 
of  Paris,  Me.,  Vice-President  in  Lincoln's  administration. 

The  Maine  coast  extends  northeast  and  southwest,  225  miles  in  a 
straight  line,  but  its  deeply  embayed  and  islanded  shores  have  a  length 
of  nearly  2500  miles.  Its  "hundred-harbored"  shore  is  broken  by 
the  great  bays  of  Casco,  Penobscot,  and  Passamaquoddy  with  innu- 
merable smaller  inlets.  The  Maine  coast  is  one  of  the  best  examples 
of  what  the  geologists  call  "a  drowned  coast."  This  is  due  to  the 
subsidence  of  the  land  so  that  the  sea  has  encroached  on  the  eroded  river 
valleys.  The  subsidence  of  the  coast  has  transformed  the  rock  ridges 
running  longitudinally  north  and  south  into  long,  finger-like  head- 
lands, often  cut  off  as  separate  islands,  between  which  deep,  narrow 
fjords  extend  far  into  the  land  along  the  old  river  valleys. 


R.  54  §  1.     Portland  to  Ellsworth.  145.0  m. 

The  route  runs  along  the  shore  of  Casco  Bay,  past  Falmouth, 
the  sandy  shore  of  which  has  long  been  known  as  "Falmouth 
Foreside,"  thence  inland  through  the  academic  town  of  Bruns- 
wick on  the  Androscoggin  river.  The  Kennebec  is  crossed 
at  Bath  by  means  of  a  steam  ferry.  At  Wiscasset  a  long  bridge 
crosses  tidewater  over  the  Sheepscot  river,  and  the  scenery 
becomes  more  interesting  on  through  Damariscotta.  From 
Rockland  the  Highway  follows  the  shore  of  Penobscot  Bay 

(763) 


764  PORTLAND— BRUNSWICK 

northward  to  Belfast  and  Prospect,  where  the  route  leaves 
the  State  Highway,  which  continues  on  to  Bangor,  and  crosses 
the  Penobscot  to  Bucksport.  From  Bucksport  a  detour  to 
the  south  leads  to  Castine.  At  Ellsworth  the  State  and 
National  Highways  are  rejoined. 

From  Portland  to  Brunswick  the  road  is  recently  constructed 
bituminous  macadam,  using  Standard  Macadam  Asphalt 
Binder  (p  827),  built  by  the  State  Highway  Commission  with 
Federal  aid.  From  Brunswick  on  to  Prospect  the  road  has 
been  almost  wholly  reconstructed  within  the  last  two  years. 
From  Prospect  to  Ellsworth  a  short  cut  of  twenty  miles  fol- 
lows county  and  town  State  Aid  roads.  The  longer  route  via 
Bangor  follows  State  roads  throughout  (p  788). 

Leaving  Portland  by  Washington  Ave.  and  Tukey's  Bridge, 
the  route  turns  right  on  Veranda  St.  in  the  suburban  village  of 
East  Deering  (2.0).  The  route  passes  the  U.S.  Marine  Hos- 
pital on  the  right  and  then  crosses  the  long  wooden  Martin 
Point  bridge.  From  here  the  road  follows  the  crest  of  a  ridge 
commanding  beautiful  views  of  the  island-studded  Casco  Bay. 

6.0     FALMOUTH  FORESIDE.     Alt  48  ft.     Pop  (twp)  1488. 

Falmouth  Foreside  and  the  adjacent  Cumberland  Foreside 
are  fashionable  summer  colonies  finely  situated  on  the  shores 
of  Casco  Bay  (p  686).  Falmouth  was  the  name  of  the  town 
cf  Portland  until  it  was  incorporated  under  its  present  name 
in  1786.  Two  miles  beyond  Cumberland  Foreside  the  road 
curves  left  and  descends  to 

11.5  YARMOUTH.  Alt  87  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2358.  Cumberland  Co. 
Settled  1690-1721.  Mfg.  wood  pulp  and  cotton  bags; 
sardines. 

Yarmouth,  a  handsome  old  town  commanding  fine  views  of 
the  bay,  was  formerly  a  shipbuilding  center.  It  is  now  a 
famous  summer  resort,  Priners  Point  and  Drinkwaters  Point 
having  large  summer  hotels.  The  whole  town's  water  supply 
is  from  one  pure  spring,  equaling  Poland  Spring  in  quality. 
Here  was  the  home  and  burial  place  of  old  Joe  Wier,  the 
famous  Indian  Scout  of  1680-1700. 

Out  across  the  bay  on  the  peninsula  is  the  resort  of  Harps- 
well,  and  beyond,  Orrs  Island  (p  687).  The  route  crosses 
the  Royal  river  and  heads  northeast  to 

17.5     FREEPORT.     Pop   (twp)  2460,  village  965.     Cumberland  Co. 

Settled  1688-1721.     Mfg.  shoes;  fish. 

Freeport,  now  a  summer  resort,  was  a  shipbuilding  center 
in  the  palmy  days  of  American  commerce.  At  the  present 
time  the  inhabitants  are  engaged  to  some  extent  in  ship- 
building, in  the  coasting  trade,  and  the  manufacture  of  shoes. 


R.   54   §   I.     PORTLAND  TO  ELLSWORTH  765 

Here  stands  the  old  tavern  where  the  convention  was  held  in 
1820  which  separated  Maine  from  Massachusetts. 

Continuing  straight  through  the  village,  the  route  crosses 
and  recrosses  R.R.,  and  enters 

26.2  BRUNSWICK.  Alt  63  ft.  Pop  6621.  Cumberland  Co.  Set- 
tled 1628.  Indian  name  Pejepscot.  Mfg.  cotton  and  paper. 

Brunswick,  the  seat  of  Bowdoin  College,  is  at  the  head  of 
tidewater  on  the  Androscoggin  river.  The  town  is  built  prin- 
cipally on  three  broad  parallel  streets  above  the  river,  and  in 
Topsham,  a  village  across  the  river,  are  hills  and  bluffs  which 
afford  good  views  (p  783). 

BOWDOIN  COLLEGE  (450  students)  is  about  a  mile  from  the 
river,  on  Maine  St.,  and  occupies  a  beautiful  campus  of  forty 
acres.  The  college  was  named  for  James  Bowdoin,  an  ardent 
patriot,  and  Governor  of  Massachusetts,  and  was  incorporated 
in  1794,  although  it  did  not  actually  go  into  operation  until 
1802.  The  most  interesting  of  the  buildings  are  Massachu- 
setts Hall,  an  eighteenth  century  structure;  the  Chapel; 
Hubbard  Hall,  the  Library;  the  Walker  Art  Building  and  the 
Science  Building.  The  Chapel  is  built  of  rough  granite  in 
the  Romanesque  style  and  has  twin  towers  with  spires  120 
feet  high.  The  Walker  Art  Building  in  Italian  Renaissance 
style  is  adorned  with  mural  decorations  by  Elihu  Vedder, 
John  LaFarge,  Kenyon  Cox,  and  Abbott  Thayer,  and  contains 
the  famous  Bowdoin  art  collections  bequeathed  to  the  college 
by  James  Bowdoin,  the  son  of  Governor  Bowdoin.  This 
includes  portraits  of  Madison  and  Jefferson  by  Gilbert  Stuart, 
and  examples  of  Rubens  and  Rembrandt,  and  of  modern  art. 

At  the  rear  of  the  campus  is  a  beautiful  pine  grove. 

Among  the  notable  alumni  of  Bowdoin  are  Longfellow,  Hawthorne, 
Peary,  the  discoverer  of  the  North  Pole,  President  Franklin  Pierce, 
and  Melville  W.  Fuller,  former  Chief  Justice  of  the  U.S.  Supreme 
Court.  Longfellow  was  a  professor  at  Bowdoin,  1820-35,  and  Pro- 
fessor Stowe  taught  here  1850-52,  during  which  time  Mrs.  Stowe 
wrote  "Uncle  Tom's  Cabin." 

Three  historic  houses  of  Brunswick  are  usually  visited, — 
the  house  where  Longfellow  lived  while  a  professor,  the  Haw- 
thorne house,  and  the  house  where  "Uncle  Tom's  Cabin"  was 
written — all  situated  on  Federal  St.  Also  on  Federal  St.  is 
the  Governor  Robert  Dunlap  house,  of  substantial  Colonial 
architecture.  The  Brunswick  Historical  Society  has  an 
interesting  collection  in  an  ancient  building  on  School  St. 

The  Androscoggin  river  at  Brunswick  falls  forty-one  feet  in 
three  stages,  providing  power  for  paper  and  cotton  mills  and 
a  few  other  industries.  The  first  cotton  mill  in  Maine  was 
built  here  in  1809. 

Seven  miles  northwest  of  Brunswick,  on  the  Androscoggin,  is  Shiloh, 


766  BRUNSWICK— WOOLWICH 


the  home  of  the  "Holy  Ghost  and  Us  Society,"  which  was  organized 
a  few  years  ago  by  F.  W.  Sanford.  This  society  furnishes  one  of  the 
most  interesting  chapters  in  modern  religious  history.  The  people 
turned  over  both  their  property  and  families  to  the  society,  with  the 
result  that  many  of  them  speedily  came  to  want.  Finally  Sanford 
procured  a  yacht  on  which  the  Shilohites  started  out  to  convert  the 
world.  It  ran  out  of  provisions,  many  died,  and  as  a  result  of  his 
criminal  negligence  Sanford  is  now  serving  a  sentence  in. the  Federal 
prison  at  Atlanta. 

Brunswick  was  settled  by  fishermen  under  a  patent  from  Plymouth. 
In  1676  it  was  destroyed  by  the  Indians  and  afterward  rebought  of 
certain  local  chiefs.  In  1715  Fort  George  was  built  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Androscoggin  at  the  lower  falls  and  was  long  known  as  the 
"key  of  Western  Maine."  The  town,  however,  was  subjected  to 
several  other  disastrous  Indian  attacks.  In  1730  it  was  incorporated 
by  the  General  Court  of  Massachusetts  and  received  the  name  of 
Brunswick  in  honor  of  the  ruling  house  in  England. 

Route  55,  to  Augusta  and  Bangor,  branches  off  here  through 
the  old  village  of  Topsham  across  the  river  (p  783). 

The  route  leaves  Brunswick  by  Maine  St.,  turning  left  at 
Bowdoin  College  campus  and  parallels  R.R.  for  two  miles  and 
a  half,  passing  the  old  Merrymeeting  Park  on  the  left.  The 
route  crosses  the  R.R.  at  the  station  (30.0)  and  takes  the 
middle  road  along  the  banks  of  the  Androscoggin.  Curving 
right,  the  road  crosses  New  Meadow  River,  and  a  mile  further 
on  crosses  R.R.  at  a  dangerous  curve.  Following  trolley, 
the  route  continues  through  North,  Middle,  and  Oak  Sts., 
with  charming  vistas  down  steep,  shady  streets  to  the  river 
below,  to  Commercial  St.,  on  the  bank  of  the  Kennebec,  in 

35.0  BATH.  Alt  7  ft.  Pop  (twp)  9396.  Shire  town  of  Sagadahoc 
Co.  Settled  1660.  Mfg.  ships,  ship  fittings,  machinery, 
and  lumber.  Steamboats  connect  with  Boothbay  Harbor 
and  Boston. 

Bath,  a  city  and  port  of  entry  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Kennebec,  twelve  miles  from  its  mouth,  is  the  shipbuilding 
center  of  Maine.  Several  of  the  ships  of  the  U.S.  Navy  have 
been  constructed  here,  including  the  battleship  "Georgia," 
the  scout  cruiser  "Chester,"  and  a  number  of  our  fastest 
torpedo  boats.  The  city  extends  for  about  five  miles  along 
the  Kennebec,  rising  in  elm-shaded  terraces  from  the  river. 
Elmhurst,  the  handsome  new  estate  of  John  S.  Hyde,  the 
president  of  the  Bath  Iron  Works,  is  on  High  St.  Emma 
Eames,  the  famous  soprano,  is  perhaps  the  most  distinguished 
resident  of  the  city.  Three  miles  up  the  Kennebec  is  Booth- 
bay  Camp  for  boys. 

The  site  of  Bath  was  first  visited  by  Captain  Weymouth  in  1605. 
It  remained  a  part  of  Georgetown  till  1781,  when  it  was  incorporated 
and  named  after  the  city  in  England.  In  1789  it  became  a  port  of 
entry  and  in  1847  was  chartered  as  a  city.  Formerly,  its  prosperity 
largely  came  from  the  building  of  wooden  ships,  but  this  type  has  been 
superseded  in  great  part  by  iron  and  steel  construction. 


R.   54   §   I.     PORTLAND  TO  ELLSWORTH  767 

The  long  peninsulas  and  narrow  islands  below  Bath  have  great  his- 
toric interest  on  account  of  their  early  settlements,  and  are  now  much 
frequented  in  summer.  Arrowsic,  a  pleasant  little  island  town,  was 
settled  in  1661  and  destroyed  by  an  Indian  attack  in  1723.  Champlain, 
in  1605,  claimed  the  region  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec  for  France, 
and  Captain  Weymouth  a  few  weeks  later  declared  the  soil  English. 
In  1607  George  Popham  and  a  company  from  London  and  Plymouth 
established  the  first  New  England  colony  which  held  the  first  American 
service  of  the  Church  of  England  and  built  the  first  American  ship,  the 
"Virginia."  Here,  likewise,  was  held  the  first  New  England  town 
meeting.  This  catalog  of  'first  things'  ends  with  the  burial  of  Pop- 
ham,  the  first  Englishman  to  rest  in  New  England  soil.  The  wretched 
colonists  who  "had  found  nothing  but  extreme  extremity"  in  the 
severe  winter  and  the  hostility  of  the  natives,  abandoned  Fort  St. 
George  .and  its  fifty  houses  and  sailed  back  to  England.  Popham's 
name  is  preserved  by  the  seaside  resort  of  Popham  on  the  splendid 
bathing  beach,  near  an  old  stone  fort  at  the  river's  mouth. 

Leaving  Bath  the  Kennebec  is  crossed  by  the  Bath-Wool- 
wich ferry,  off  Commercial  St.  (50  cents  for  car  and  driver; 
passengers  5  cents  each). 

The  KENNEBEC,  140  miles  long,  is  the  second  largest  river 
in  Maine  and  the  outlet  of  Moosehead  Lake.  In  addition  to 
its  log-driving  facilities,  it  supplies  64,000  h.p.  and  could  pro- 
duce far  more  under  systematic  development.  The  Andros- 
coggin  flows  into  it  about  five  miles  above  Bath.  In  pioneer 
days  it  was  the  principal  line  of  overland  travel  for  the  French 
who  ascended  the  Chaudiere  river  from  Quebec  and  crossed 
the  narrow  watershed  to  the  Kennebec  headwaters.  Until 
1700  it  was  the  boundary  usually  observed  between  the  Eng- 
lish and  French  domains. 

35. 5  WOOLWICH.  Alt  8  ft.  Pop  (twp)  868.  Sagadahoc  Co. 
Settled  1638-1734. 

Woolwich  is  a  picturesque  old  village  on  the  Kennebec 
opposite  Bath.  The  environs  are  attractive  and  in  the  older 
portion  there  is  a  church  built  in  1754  and  a  very  old  mill. 

The  town  was  settled  in  1638  on  the  Indian  lands  of  Nequasset 
and  practically  wiped  out  by  an  Indian  attack  of  1676.  Fifty  years 
later  it  was  resettled  and  in  1759  incorporated  as  Woolwich,  so  named 
from  a  supposed  resemblance  of  the  Kennebec  river  at  this  point  to 
the  Thames  at  Woolwich.  William  Phips  was  born  here  in  1651  and 
was  a  shepherd  on  these  hills.  As  a  young  man  he  went  to  Boston 
where  he  learned  to  read  and  write  and  became  a  trader.  Marrying 
for  wealth,  he  built  ships  of  his  own  and  in  i687_  recovered  $1,500,000 
in  jewels  and  bars  of  gold  from  a  sunken  Spanish  treasure  ship  near 
the  Bahamas.  He  was  knighted  by  the  king  and  received  $80,000  as 
his  share  of  the  treasure.  He  commanded  the  expedition  of  1690, 
which  took  Port  Royal  from  the  French,  and  from  1692  to  1694  was 
Governor  of  Massachusetts,  taking  a  prominent  part  in  suppressing 
the  witchcraft  prosecutions.  Phips  was  one  of  the  first  of  American 
'self-made  men,'  and  more  than  any  one  else  deserves  to  be  called  the 
founder  of  New  England  shipping. 

From  Wroolwich  the  route  follows  R.R.  for  half  a  mile  and 


768  WOOLWICH— WALDOBORO 

then  swings  to  the  right,  across  the  marshes  and  then  over 
Nequasset  Brook.  It  keeps  to  the  right  of  R.R.  while  crossing 
a  long,  low  hill  and  then  crosses  the  tracks  (40.5)  and  a  brook. 
From  here  the  road  follows  the  loo-foot  ridge  above  the  estu- 
aries of  Sheepscot  River  into 

45.0  WISCASSET.  Alt  11  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1287.  Shire  town  of 
Lincoln  Co.  Settled  1663.  Port  of  entry.  Coasting  trade 
and  summer  resort.  Steamers  connect  daily  with  Boothbay 
Harbor. 

Wiscasset  is  a  pleasant  old  village  on  the  Sheepscot  river 
about  twelve  miles  from  the  sea  in  a  region  of  summer  resorts. 
The  widening  of  the  river  at  this  point  forms  a  good  harbor 
and  a  century  or  more  ago  Wiscasset  was  a  flourishing  center 
of  the  coasting  trade.  The  tree-lined  streets  contain  a  number 
of  Colonial  houses  dating  from  the  period  of  early  prosperity. 

Most  interesting  is  the  old 
Colonial  blockhouse,  seen  on 
the  right,  after  crossing  the 
longest  wooden  bridge  in  Maine 
to  NORTH  EDGECOMB  (46.5). 
This  sleepy  little  town  was  a 
thriving  seaport  in  the  old 
days.  The  scenery  is  very 
attractive  and  there  are  many 
historic  houses.  The  Marie 
Antoinette  house  was  one  of 
those  destined  to  receive  the 
BLOCKHOUSE,  EDGECOMB  unfortunate  queen  had  she 

been  rescued  from  the  Bastille 

and  brought  to  America.  The  Cochrane  house  contains  a 
collection  of  Oriental  curios  brought  home  by  Ezekiel  Percy, 
an  oldtime  sea  captain. 

About  fifteen  miles  to  the  south  lies  the  beautiful  summer  resort 
of  BOOTHBAY  HARBOR,  one  of  the  early  peninsula  towns,  famous  as  a 
rendezvous  of  yachtsmen.  Visited  by  Wey mouth,  1605,  it  was  settled 
in  1630,  destroyed  in  1688  and  re-established  in  1730. 

Boothbay  is  the  home  of  the  Commonwealth  Art  Colony,  a  'back  to 
nature'  community  who  have  pitched  their  cottages,  tents,  and  tree- 
huts  on  a  hilltop  above  the  village.  The  U.S.  Government  maintains  a 
lobster  hatchery  at  Boothbay  Harbor. 

Off  the  coast  is  the  favorite  resort  of  Squirrel  Island.  Two  genera- 
tions ago  this  was  the  summer  camping  ground  of  families  from  up 
river,  now  controlling  the  modern  holiday  settlement. 

At  the  top  of  a  steep  little  hill  in  North  Edgecomb  the  route 
turns  to  the  left.  The  right  fork  leads  to  Boothbay.  A  mile 
beyond,  the  route  turns  to  the  right  at  the  crossroads  in  tne 
hollow  and  heads  northeast,  with  R.R.  half  a  mile  to  the  left 
the  rest  of  the  way|to 


R.   54   §   I.     PORTLAND  TO  ELLSWORTH  769 

54.0  NEWCASTLE.  Alt  89  ft.  Pop  (twp)  1066.  Lincoln  Co. 
Settled  1640-1730.  Mfg.  lumber  products;  shipbuilding. 
Steamboat  daily  for  East  Boothbay  and  Christmas  Cove. 

Newcastle  is  a  tree-shaded  village  on  the  Damariscotta 
river  with  shipbuilding  interests  and  several  summer  colonies. 
Traces  have  been  found  of  the  early  settlement,  probably 
destroyed  by  the  French.  Two  subsequent  settlements  were 
destroyed  by  the  Indians  and  it  was  not  until  1730  that  danger 
from  attack  was  over. 

On  the  riverbank  at  Glidden's  Point,  a  mile  above  the  town, 
are  the  Oyster  Mounds,  huge  shell  heaps  overgrown  with 
trees  and  shrubs.  Many  of  the  oyster  shells  that  can  still  be 
separated  from  the  mass  of  lime  are  nine  inches  long.  The 
larger  mounds  are  called  the  Whaleback  and  the  Peninsula. 
54.3  DAMARISCOTTA.  Alt  15  ft.  Pop  (twp)  771. 

Damariscotta,  a  companion  town  to  Newcastle,  is  a  minor 
summer  resort.  The  lumber  industries  still  have  some  impor- 
tance and  there  is  a  good  deal  of  fertile  farm  land  about  here. 

The  pioneers,  an  overflow  from  the  Pemaquid  settlement,  arrived  in 
1640.  This  remained  a  part  of  the  Pemaquid  patent  until  1778,  and 
then  a  part  of  Nobleboro  until  it  was  incorporated  as  a  separate  town 
in  1847.  It  was  named  for  Damarine,  Sachem  of  Sagadahoc,  called 
Robin  Hood  by  the  English,  who  in  the  early  settlers'  day  held  sway 
over  all  of  this  country.  The  natives  speak  of  the  town  as  "Scottie." 

Note.  From  Damariscotta,  an  interesting  excursion  leads 
to  Pemaquid,  the  Indian  name  for  "long  point,"  about  fifteen 
miles  to  the  south  on  a  rocky  promontory.  This  was  prob- 
ably the  most  important  of  the  early  settlements  on  the  coast 
and  vies  with  Castine  in  historic  interest.  Here  are  the  remains 
of  Fort  Frederick,  built  by  Sir  William  Phips  in  1692,  and 
other  interesting  ruins.  At  Pemaquid,  Samoset,  the  friend  of 
Plymouth,  held  sway  and  learned  from  the  English  fishermen 
the  "Welcome,  Englishmen,"  with  which  he  happily  surprised 
the  Pilgrims  in  1620.  Ten  miles  out  to  sea  is  the  little  island 
of  Monhegan,  inhabited  for  more  than  two  centuries  by  a 
hardy  race  of  fisherfolk  of  primitive  customs. 

Leaving  Damariscotta  by  the  left  fork  at  the  bandstand, 
and  the  right  fork  just  beyond,  the  route  takes  the  left  a  mile 
further  on  and  then  leads  straight  by  the  main  road  through 

59.0  NOBLEBORO.  Alt  68  ft.  Pop  (twp)  775.  Lincoln  Co.  Set- 
tled 1692.  Nobleboro  is  a  quiet  country  village  near  several 
summer  resorts. 

Skirting  the  head  of  Pemaquid  Pond,  on  the  right,  and  run- 
ning through  Glendon  (61.0),  the  road  leads  past  Duck  Puddle 
Pond  and  three  miles  beyond  crosses  the  Medomak  river  to 

64.5     WALDOBORO.     Pop  (twp)  2656.     Lincoln  Co.     Settled  1748. 

Mfg.  lumber  products;  shipbuilding. 
Waldoboro  is  a  well-kept  village  with  a  fine  maple-shaded 


7  7°  WALDOBORO—  ROCKPORT 

main  street.  Among  the  old  houses  perhaps  the  finest  is  the 
Reed  mansion,  built  by  a  prominent  shipbuilding  family  a 
century  ago. 

Waldoboro  was  named  for  General  Waldo,  who  settled  the  peninsulas 
with  Germans  and  Scotch-Irish. 

The  route  goes  straight  across  the  town  and  up  the  hill 
away  from  the  river.  Taking  the  right  fork  a  quarter  mile 
up  the  hillside,  the  route  crosses  R.R.  half  a  mile  further  on. 
At  the  end  of  the  road,  two  miles  beyond,  the  route  turns  left 
and  then  follows  the  main  road  through  WEST  WARREN  and 
SOUTH  WARREN  (71.0),  which  are  outlying  villages  of  the 
town  of  Warren,  a  trading  post  in  1631.  but  not  settled  till 
1736,  by  Scotch-Irish.  At  the  main  village  is  waterpower, 
with  a  woolen  and  a  shoe  factory.  The  scenery  here  becomes 
rugged  in  character  with  outcrops  of  the  limestone  for  which 
the  vicinity  of  Rockland  is  famous. 

In  South  Warren  the  route  turns  to  the  left.  The  road 
straight  on  leads  to  the  fine  old  seacoast  village  of  Friendship. 
Crossing  an  old  wooden  bridge  over  the  St.  George's  river, 
the  route  passes  the  Maine  State  Prison,  on  the  right. 

76.5     THOMASTON.    Pop    (twp)    2205.     Knox    Co.     Settled   1720. 

Mfg.  ship  and  boat  building.    Steamers  connect  daily  with 

Friendship  and  Boothbay  Harbor. 

Thomaston,  a  beautiful  old  town  in  the  limestone  region, 
lies  on  St.  George's  River,  here  a  picturesque  harbor. 

The  first  landing  in  New  England  was  made  here  by  the  English  in 
1605,  when  the  explorer  Weymouth  and  his  party  ascended  St.  George's 
River  and  marched  overland  to  the  mountains  immediately  north.  A 
huge  boulder  with  a  bronze  tablet  reciting  these  facts  is  on  the  Thom- 
aston Mall.  In  1630  it  became  a  trading  post  and  in  1720  a  fort  was 
built  here  near  the  present  railway  station  and  sustained  several  furious 
attacks  of  the  Tarratine  Indians.  Toward  the  end  of  the  eighteenth 
century  this  tract  of  land  came  into  the  possession  of  General  Henry 
Knox,  chief  of  artillery  in  the  Revolution,  and  Secretary  of  War 
from  1785  to  1795.  Knox,  who  was  very  aristocratic  in  his  tastes, 
here  built  himself  the  finest  mansion  in  Maine  and  lived  in  baronial 
style.  Montpelier,  as  the  mansion  was  called,  was  demolished  in  1872, 
but  the  present  railway  station  was  one  of  the  farm  buildings. 

The  route  goes  straight  through  Thomaston  and  turns  left 
and  then  right  into  Park  St.  with  the  trolley.  From  the 
heights  between  Thomaston  and  Rockland  are  beautiful  views 
of  Penobscot  Bay  with  its  numerous  islands. 

80.5     ROCKLAND.     Alt  40  ft.     Pop  8174.     Shire  town  of  Knox  Co. 
Settled  1769.     Mfg.  lime,  granite,  tools,  and  foundry  prod- 
ucts;    shipbuilding.     Steamers  connect   with   Boston,  Ban- 
gor,  Sedgwick,  Bar  Harbor,  Vinal  Haven,  and  Isle  au  Haul, 
Blue  Hill  and  Castine;  and  thrice  weekly  for  Portland. 
Rockland,  the  center  of  a  granite  industry,  and  famous  for 
its  lime  quarries  and  kilns,  is  a  thriving  little  city  beautifully 
situated  on  Rockland  Harbor  at  the  mouth  of  Penobscot  Bay. 


R.   54  §   I.     PORTLAND  TO  ELLSWORTH  771 

To  the  south  is  the  promontory  of  Owl's  Head,  enclosing  one 
side  of  the  harbor,  and  to  the  north,  the  breakwater  with  the 
mountains  of  Camden  beyond.  Out  in  the  bay  lie  the  islands 
of  North  Haven,  Vinal  Haven,  Islesboro,  Isle  au  Haut,  and 
others.  The  bay  is  a  yachting  rendezvous  and  off  Rockland 
Harbor  is  the  official  trial  course  for  the  U.S.  battleships.  In 
the  harbor  mouth  is  the  U.S.  mile-long  breakwater  at  the  base 
of  which  is  the  Samoset  Hotel  and  its  golf  links.  Rockland 
was  the  birthplace  of  the  actress  Maxine  Elliott,  and  her  sister 
Gertrude,  now  Lady  Forbes-Robertson. 

The  huge  limestone  quarries  in  the  vicinity,  with  their 
jagged  perpendicular  walls,  resemble  the  rocky  canyons  of  the 
West.  The  Rockland  &  Rockport  Lime  Company  is  by  far 
the  largest  operator  and  controls  about  sixty  kilns  and  exten- 
sive quarries,  employing  more  than  500  men  and  producing 
a  daily  output  of  about  5000  barrels  of  lime.  The  kilns  should 
be  seen  at  night  for  the  most  picturesque  effect,  when  the 
flames  light  the  sky.  Shipbuilding  is  still  important  at  Rock- 
land.  It  is  also  a  distributing  center  for  much  of  the  granite 
for  which  the  islands  to  the  north  and  east  are  famous,  and  is 
the  home  of  a  considerable  fish  packing  industry. 

Rockland's  real  growth  began  with  the  establishment  of  the  lime 
industry  in  1795.  From  1777  to  1848,  when  it  was  incorporated  as 
East  Thomaston,  it  was  a  part  of  Thomaston.  In  1850  the  name 
was  changed  to  Rockland  and  in  1854  it  was  chartered  as  a  city. 

The  route  follows  the  trolley  north  along  Main  and  Camden 
Sts.  To  the  right  is  Jameson  Point  and  the  breakwater. 
Still  keeping  with  the  trolley,  the  road  passes  Glen  Cove,  on 
the  right.  Over  the  ridge  to  the  left,  between  Dodge  Moun- 
tain (660  ft)  and  Bear  Hill  (440  ft),  is  Chickawaukie  Pond,  one 
of  the  two  lakes  from  which  Rockland  is  supplied  with  water. 
Ascending  a  grade,  the  road  follows  the  ridge  above  the  rocky 
shore  of  Penobscot  Bay,  with  Rockport  Harbor  in  the  fore- 
ground. In  the  distance  are  the  whaleback  slopes  of  pine- 
clad  Mt.  Megunticook  (1380  ft)  and  Mt.  Battie  (900  ft),  form- 
ing an  impressive  background  for  the  towns  which  nestle  at 
their  base.  A  few  miles  to  the  west  are  Bald  and  Ragged 
Mountains  (1300  ft).  Pring,  who  coasted  by  this  shore  in 
1603,  accurately  described  it  as  "a  high  country,  full  of  great 
woods."  The  road  descends  abruptly  into 

86.8     ROCKPORT.     Pop     (twp)     2022.     Knox    Co.     Settled    1769. 
Mfg.  lime;  shipbuilding. 

Rockport,  a  lime-burning  and  shipbuilding  village,  pictur- 
esquely situated  at  the  head  of  a  good  harbor,  was  formerly  a 
part  of  Camden,  with  which  it  forms  a  continuous  settlement. 

The  route  follows  the  trolley  line  through  Rockport  and  up 
over  the  ridge,  past  Lilly  Pond,  on  the  right,  to 


772  CAMDEN— BUCKSPORT 

88.5  CAMDEN.  Pop  (twp)  3015.  Knox  Co.  Settled  1769.  Indian 
name  Megunticook.  Mfg.  ship  fittings,  engines,  ice,  woolens; 
shipbuilding.  Steamers  connect  with  Bangor,  Bucksport, 
Belfast,  Rockland,  and  Boston. 

Camden,  a  summer  resort  and  ship-fitting  and  woolen 
manufacturing  center,  has  a  strikingly  beautiful  situation  on 
the  little  Megunticook  river,  at  the  base  of  the  mountains.  In 
few  other  places  is  there  such  a  grouping  of  mountain,  lake, 
and  ocean  scenery.  The  rocky  headlands  of  Metcalf  Point 
and  Sherman  Point  almost  encircle  the  harbor,  at  the  mouth 
of  which  lies  Negro  Island.  Some  of  the  finest  residences  are 
along  the  north  shore  of  the  bay.  Camp  Megunticook,  for 
boys,  is  located  here. 

A  good  road  leads  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Battie,  which  com- 
mands a  wonderful  panorama  of  this  part  of  the  coast.  There 
is  a  club  house  on  the  summit  which  is  open  to  visitors  during 
the  summer  months.  The  view  from  Mt.  Megunticook  is 
even  finer,  embracing  the  whole  of  Penobscot  Bay  with  Mt. 
Desert,  far  to  the  east. 

The  most  beautiful  of  all  the  drives  about  Camden  is  the 
Turnpike  Road,  a  continuation  of  Mountain  St.,  which  winds 
along  the  shores  of  lovely  Lake  Megunticook  to  the  northwest, 
climbs  the  northern  extremity  of  the  mountain  range,  and  at 
Maiden  Cliff  borders  the  outer  edge  of  Mt.  Megunticook, 
from  which  precipitous  cliffs  fall  sharply  away  to  the  lake. 

Camden  was  visited  by  DeMonts  in  1604  and  by  Weymouth  a 
year  later.  It  was  named  in  honor  of  Lord  Camden,  the  friend  of 
America  in  the  British  Parliament. 

From  Camden  to  Belfast  the  route  runs  along  the  seaward 
bluffs  of  the  mountains  of  Camden  and  affords  an  almost  con- 
tinuous panorama  of  Penobscot  Bay  with  its  wooded  islands, 
and  beyond,  to  the  northeast,  Castine  and  Blue  Hill.  Camp 
Penobscot  for  boys  is  on  Eagle  Island,  and  Camp  Eggemoggin 
for  girls  is  on  Birch  Island.  The  route  passes  through  the 
coast  villages  of  Lincolnville  (94.0),  Northport  (99.3),  and 
East  Northport.  The  back  country  about  here  yields  large 
crops  of  blueberries. 

107.0     BELFAST.      Alt  100  ft.      Pop    (twp)    4618.      Shire   town  of 

Waldo     Co.     Settled     1769.     Mfg.      shoes;     shipbuilding, 

lumber  products.     Steamers    connect    daily    with    Bangor, 

Camden,  Castine,  Rockland,  Boston,  and  Bucksport. 

Belfast,  a  port  of  entry  and  the  county-seat  of  Waldo  County, 

is  a  well-built  town  at  the  head  of  Belfast  Bay,  by  the  mouth 

of  the  Penobscot  river,  on  an  undulating  hillside  which  rises 

gradually  from  the  water's  edge  and  commands  a  good  view 

of  the  adjacent  shores  and  islands.     Across  the  bay  is  Isles- 

boro  and  beyond  Dice's  Head  are  Castine  and  Blue  Hill,  with 

Mt.  Desert  often  looming  in  the  far  distance.     On  the  East 


R.    54    §    I.      PORTLAND   TO   ELLSWORTH  773 

Side,  which  was  the  earliest  settlement,  an  old  gambrel-roofed 
tavern  is  still  standing.  Ten  miles  west  at  Lake  Quantabacook 
is  Camp  Quan-ta-ba-cook,  for  boys. 

Belfast  was  settled  by  Scotch-Irish  and  incorporated  as  a  town  in 
1773,  taking  its  name  from  Belfast,  Ireland.  It  was  almost  completely 
destroyed  by  the  British  in  1779,  but  rebuilt  the  following  year.  It 
was  chartered  as  a  city  in  1850,  and  is  now  a  manufacturing  and  dis- 
tributing center  for  this  section. 

The  route  follows  the  coast  for  the  next  ten  miles. 

112.5  SEARSPORT.  Pop  (twp)  1444.  Waldo  Co.  Settled  1794. 
Mfg.  fertilizers.  Steamers  connect  daily  with  Bangor, 
Bucksport,  Belfast,  Camden,  Rockland,  and  Boston. 

Searsport,  a  quiet  village  with  a  pleasant  situation  on  the 
Bay,  was  formerly  a  shipping  center  and  is  said  to  have  fur- 
nished more  sea-captains  than  any  other  town  in  the  United 
States,  the  protests  of  Salem,  Gloucester,  Newburyport,  and 
New  Bedford  notwithstanding.  The  town  is  notable  for  the 
number  of  well-kept  residences,  many  of  them  the  homes  of 
retired  mariners  with  observatories  and  "look-outs." 

Stockton  Springs  (117.0)  is  a  hamlet  in  the  midst  of  a  good 
agricultural  district.  At  Fort  Point,  on  Cape  Jellison,  the 
Massachusetts  Bay  Colony  erected  Fort  Pownall  in  1759,  a 
few  years  after  its  settlement.  This  promontory  marks  the 
mouth  of  the  Penobscot  river,  which  drains  more  than  a 
quarter  of  Maine.  It  is  160  miles  long  and  contains  467  lakes 
in  its  basin.  Mainly  a  log-driving  stream,  it  also  furnishes 
70,454  h.p.,  with  immense  possibilities  of  further  development. 

The  route  turns  left  in  the  center  of  the  village  and  crosses 
rolling  country  to  PROSPECT  (121.5),  a  quiet  country  town,  so 
named  because  of  its  beautiful  environment.  The  route  turns 
to  the  right,  across  Marsh  River  and  around  the  slopes  of  Eustis 
Mountain  (545  ft),  to  the  ferry  (car  and  two  persons  $i,  extra 
persons  10  cts.  each)  and  over  the  Penobscot  to  Bucksport. 
By  the  ferry  on  the  right  are  the  walls  of  old  Fort  Knox. 

For  the  route  to  Ellsworth  via  Bangor,  see  Route  57  (p  788). 

125.0     BUCKSPORT.     Alt   43  ft.    Pop    (twp)    2216.     Hancock   Co. 
Settled     1762.     Mfg.     dried     fish.     Steamboats     connect 
daily  with  Bangor,  Belfast,  Camden,  Rockland,  and  Boston. 
Bucksport,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Penobscot,  once  an  im- 
portant shipbuilding  center  still  sends  fishing  vessels  to  the 
Grand  Banks.     Peary's  ship  the  "Roosevelt,"  which  he  used 
on  his  expedition  to  the  North  Pole,  was  built  here.     The 
brick  buildings  of  the  East  Maine  Conference  Seminary  (est. 
1851)  are  conspicuous  on  Oak  Hill  above  the  town. 

The  old  Robinson  House  has  been  a  tavern  since  1805,  but 
was  built  earlier  than  that  date.  A  former  landlord,  James  F. 
Moses,  was  the  original  of  the  character  "Qld  Jed  Prouty," 


774  BUCKSPORT— CAST1NF. 

wellknown  to  Americans  through  its  portrayal  by  the  actor 
Richard  Golden,  who,  like  his  colleagues  in  stagecraft,  Dustin 
and  William  Farnum,  is  a  native  of  Bucksport.  Among  the 
landmarks  are  the  Swazey  house,  built  in  1773,  the  old  Pond 
house  on  Main  St.,  and  the  Henry  Darlin  house.  The  Con- 
gregational Church,  built  in  1811,  is  now  used  as  the  town  hall. 
The  village  was  a  part  of  the  old  Indian  domain  of  Pentagoet. 
Colonel  Jonathan  Buck  built  the  first  sawmill  here  and  gave  his  name 
to  the  town,  which  was  incorporated  in  1792.  In  the  early  years  of 
the  Revolution  it  was  visited  by  the  British  fleet  and  the  citizens  fled 
to  Camden  and  left  the  place  deserted  until  1784.  After  the  war  it 
became  prominent  in  shipbuilding.  The  town  was  occupied  for  a  time 
by  the  British  during  the  War  of  1812,  but  little  damage  was  done. 

From  Bucksport  the  main  route  heads  eastward  through 
the  farming  village  of  ORLAND  (128.0)  to  Ellsworth  (p  776). 

Alternate  route  to  Ellsworth  via  Castine.  48.0  m. 

From  Orland  it  is  a  most  interesting  trip  along  the  shore  of 
Penobscot  Bay  to  Castine,  a  lovely  old  town  with  a  romantic 
history,  and  now  a  summer  resort,  reaching  Ellsworth  via  the 
beautiful  shore  route  encircling  Blue  Hill. 

15.0     CASTINE.     Pop     (twp)     933.     Hancock     Co.     Settled    1626. 
Indian  name  Majabigwaduce.    Port  of  entry.     Mfg.  fishing 
lines  and  twine.     Steamboats  to  Belfast  and  Rockland. 
Castine  is  a  fine  old  town  attractively  situated  near  the  tip 
of   the   breeze-swept   peninsula   of   Pentagoet.     The   English 
Fort  George,  still  in  good  preservation,  has  a  commanding  site 
on  the  hill  back  of  the  town  and  beautiful  views  are  obtained 
from   the   ramparts.     A   quiet,   dignified   old  village,   chiefly 
known  as  a  summer  resort,  a  number  of  fine  old  houses  still 
remain  to  attest  its  former  commercial  importance.     A  State 
Normal  School  gives  a  modern  touch  to  the  village.     Noah 
Brooks  was  a  native  of  Castine  and  has  written  about  the  town 
in  his  "East  Coast  Tales"  under  the  name  of  Fairport.     Whit- 
tier's  famous  poem   "Mogg  Megone"  is  likewise  concerned 
with  this  locality.     A  Castine  celebrity  recently  past,  the  poeti- 
cal shipbuilder,  James  Webster,  wrote  such  stirring  verse  as: 
"Most  manfully  He  stood  the  test 
And  like  a  Hero  done  his  best 
But  human  nature  cannot  stand 
What  is  beyond  the  power  of  man." 

No  town  in  Maine  has  such  a  romantic  history  as  Castine,  where 
five  different  nations  have  occupied  the  soil  and  have  fought  five  naval 
battles  in  its  harbor.  It  was  one  of  the  principal  strongholds  in  the 
long  debated  region  between  Penobscot  Bay  and  the  Provinces,  claimed 
by  the  French  as  Acadia.  The  Plymouth  Company  occupied  this 
peninsula  in  1629  for  a  trading  post,  but  it  was  captured  in  1635  by 
the  Frenchman,  D'Aulnay,  who  erected  strong  fortifications.  In 
1674  a  Dutch  fleet  took  Pentagoet  after  suffering  some  losses.  In 
1667  the  Baron  St.  Castin,  a  French  nobleman  of  the  Pyrenees,  came 
to  Pentagoet,  married  the  daughter  of  the  Sachem  of  the  Tarratines 


R.   54  §   I.     PORTLAND  TO  ELLSWORTH 


775 


and  became  the  champion  of  Catholicism  among  the  Indian  tribes. 
His  lineal  descendants  ruled  over  the  Tarratines  until  1860.  In  1688 
Sir  Edmond  Andros  plundered  the  settlement  and  Castine  retaliated 
in  i6g6  by  destroying  the  English  colony  at  Pemaquid.  New  Eng- 
landers  settled  here  in  1760  and  later  the  place  was  strongly  garrisoned 
by  the  British  who  built  Fort  George.  John  Moore,  a  captain  in  this 
garrison,  was  destined  to  become  a  hero  in  the  Peninsular  campaign 
of  the  Napoleonic  wars.  His  death  before  Corunna  inspired  Wolfe's 
celebrated  lines,  acclaimed  by  Byron  as  "the  most  perfect  ode  in  the 
language": 

"Not  a  drum  was  heard,  not  a  funeral  note, 

As  his  corse  to  the  rampart  we  hurried; 
Not  a  soldier  discharged  his  farewell  shot 

O'er  the  grave  where  our  hero  we  buried." 

On  July  28,  1779,  1200  Massachusetts  militiamen  supported  by  artillery 
under  Paul  Revere,  and  a  formidable  fleet  with  an  additional  landing 
force  of  1500,  stormed  the  heights  and  secured  a  foothold.  But  delay 
and  disagreement  led  the  Americans  to  intrench.  Meanwhile  the 
British  fleet  arrived  and  destroyed  the  American  squadron  and  dis- 
persed the  land  forces.  Castine  was  held  by  the  British  from  1770  to 
1783,  and  was  again  taken  and  held  by  their  troops  in  the  War  of  1812. 


RT   GEORGE,    CASTINE 


From  Castine  to  Ellsworth  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  trips 
in  the  State,  much  of  it  following  close  to  the  shore  and  encir- 
cling the  wellknown  Blue  Hills.  These  dirt  and  gravel  roads 
extend  for  almost  the  entire  distance,  with  several  recently 
much  improved  sections.  The  route  encircles  Hatch's  Cove 
and  runs  along  at  an  altitude  of  about  200  feet  above  Baga- 
duce  and  the  narrows  to  North  Castine  (18.0),  past  North 
Bay  through  Penobscot  (23.0)  to  SOUTH  PENOBSCOT  (24.0). 

Note.  From  South  Penobscot  a  further  detour  may  be  made  over 
country  roads  along  a  series  of  inlets  and  ponds  to  Sargentville  and 
Brooklin,  a  road  winding  along  Eggemoggin  Reach.  The  view  from 
the  top  of  Caterpillar  Hill  just  outside  Sargentville  gives  a  beautiful 
panorama  overlooking  Walkers  Pond  and  the  Reach  with  its  scat- 
tered islands  while  the  Camden  Hills  in  the  distance  form  a  background. 
From  Sedgwick  there  are  two  roads  to  Blue  Hill,  one  along  a  series  of 
inlets  from  the  ocean,  the  other  skirting  the  border  of  Blue  Hill  Bay, 
the  more  picturesque  of  the  two;  both  are  good  country  roads. 

From  South  Penobscot  the  direct  route  strikes  across  the 
hills  attaining  an  altitude  of  almost  400  feet,  near  the  Blue 
Hill  Mineral  Spring,  and  skirts  Blue  Hill  (940  ft),  the  namesake 
of  the  village  of 


776  BLUE  HILL— BAR   HARBOR 

27.0     BLUE  HILL.     Pop   (twp)  1462.     Hancock  Co.     Settled  1762. 

Steamboats  connect  daily  with  Rockland. 

Blue  Hill  is  a  pleasant  village  on  Blue  Hill  Harbor  at  the 
head  of  Blue  Hill  Bay.  The  beautiful  surroundings  have  made 
this  a  favorite  summering  place  and  there  are  a  number  of 
attractive  estates  in  the  vicinity.  The  Blue  Hill  Hotel  was 
formerly  an  old  tavern  and  there  are  several  houses  dating 
from  the  eighteenth  century,  of  which  perhaps  the  most  inter- 
esting is  the  Parson  Fisher  place  of  1798.  Parker  Point,  now 
an. exclusive  summer  resort,  takes  its  name  from  a  settler  of  a 
century  ago  who  once  owned  all  of  this  land.  The  direct  road 
turns  north  over  the  shoulder  of  Blue  Hill  and  passes  through 
the  little  villages  of  Surry  (33.5)  and  East  Surry  (36.5),  which 
are  becoming  increasingly  popular  as  vacation  resorts,  and 
then  reaches  Ellsworth  (40.5). 

From  Orland  the  main  route  traverses  a  hill  country  with 
several  ponds  and  swamps  in  the  valleys.  It  passes  through 
the  hamlet  of  East  Orland  (131.0)  and  on  to 

145.0  ELLSWORTH.  Alt  112  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3549.  Shire  town  of 
Hancock  Co.  Mfg.  lumber,  foundry  and  machine  shop 
products,  carriages,  and  shoes;  hardwood. 

Ellsworth,  a  city  and  port  of  entry  at  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  Union  river,  has  a  considerable  lumber  trade,  a  foundry 
and  shipyard,  a  large  hardwood  mill,  and  other  minor  manu- 
factories, which  are  supplied  with  good  waterpower  from  a 
concrete  dam  seventy-two  feet  high,  which  also  supplies  the 
electric  power  for  Bar  Harbor.  Nearby  there  is  a  large  U.S. 
Fish  Hatchery. 

MT.  DESERT  lies  nine  miles  to  the  south;  Bar  Harbor  is 
twenty  miles  from  Ellsworth.  The  island  of  Mt.  Desert, — 
Indian  name  Pemetic, — renowned  for  its  mountain  and  coast 
scenery,  and  for  the  famous  resort  of  Bar  Harbor,  is  15  miles 
long,  from  4  .to  12  miles  wide,  with  an  area  of  100  square  miles. 
The  mountains  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea  have  no  parallel 
on  the  Atlantic  coast  until  we  reach  Rio  de  Janeiro  in.  South 
America,  and  they  are  much  more  imposing  than  their  moder- 
ate elevation  (900-1500  ft)  would  suggest.  Roughly  parallel 
ridges  extend  from  north  to  south,  separated  by  narrow  val- 
leys, one  of  which  is  occupied  by  Somes  Sound,  a  fiord  pene- 
trating to  the  heart  of  the  island.  There  are  thirteen  principal 
peaks  of  which  the  highest  is  Mt.  Green  (1527  ft)  on  the  east 
side.  The  village  improvement  associations,  thanks  largely  to 
Dr.  S.  Weir  Mitchell,  the  novelist,  have  done  much  in  introduc- 
ing paths  and  wellmarked  trails,  and  the  roads,  which  are 
excellent,  are  now  open  to  automobiles.  About  5000  acres 
southwest  of  Bar  Harbor  form  a  reservation  controlled  by  an 


R.   54  §   I.     PORTLAND  TO  ELLSWORTH  777 

organization  of  summer  residents  under  the  leadership  of  George 
B.  Dorr  of  Boston  and  Ex-president  Eliot  of  Harvard,  who  have 
recently  offered  it  to  the  Federal  Government. 

The  island  was  discovered  by  Champlain  in  1604,  while  on  an  explor- 
ing expedition  westward  from  the  French  colony  at  the  mouth  of  the 
St.  Croix  river.  On  Sept.  5,  1604,  he  records:  "We  passed  near  to  an 
island  some  four  or  five  leagues  long,  in  the  neighborhood  of  which 
we  just  escaped  being  lost  on  a  rock  that  was  just  awash  and  made  a 
hole  in  the  bottom  of  our  boat.  From  this  island,  to  the  mainland 
on  the  north,  the  distance  is  not  more  than  a  hundred  paces.  The 
island  is  high  and  notched  in  places  so  that  from  the  sea  it  gives  the 
appearance  of  a  range  of  seven  or  eight  mountains.  The  summits  are 
all  bare  and  rocky.  The  slopes  are  covered  with  pines,  firs  and  birches. 
I  named  it  Isle  des  Monts  Deserts." 

The  region  was  declared  French  soil  by  "that  lusty  gallant,  that  very 
devil,"  Henry  of  Navarre.  In  1608  a  colony  was  established  here  by 
dissatisfied  Jesuits  from  Port  Royal,  but  this  was  broken  up  in  1616 
by  Governor  Argall  of  Virginia,  who  tore  down  the  Catholic  crosses 
and  carried  many  of  the  colonists  away  as  captives.  From  this  date 
the  island  was  indeed  deserted;  neither  English  nor  French  dared 
settle  there,  each  fearing  a  raid  from  the  other's  colonial  privateers. 
At  last  the  defeat  of  the  French  at  Louisburg  and  Quebec  opened  the 
way  to  a  flood  of  Yankee  immigrants;  in  1761  a  Gloucester  pioneer, 
Abraham  Somes,  spied  out  the  land  and  soon  brought  his  family,  set- 
tling at  the  head  of  Somes  Sound  and  building  the  first  house  in  Somes- 
ville  in  1763.  His  descendants  are  still  a  power  in  the  land. 

These  squatters  from  Massachusetts  were  sturdier  than  the  rightful 
owners,  the  DeGregoires,  who  took  possession  at  Hull's  Cover  in  1787 
and  died  penniless  in  1810.  Their  title  was  a  grant  of  France  in  1688, 
recognized  by  the  General  Court  of  Massachusetts  in  1787  through 
the  influence  of  Lafayette  and  Thomas  Jefferson.  On  this  grant  are 
based  all  the  Bar  Harbor  real  estate  titles  today. 

About  1850  a  few  artists  and  summer  folk  visited  the  island  and 
advertised  the  magnificent  scenery  so  well  that  Bar  Harbor  became  a 
more  and  more  fashionable  and  frequented  summer  resort  until  today 
it  is  one  of  the  foremost  in  the  land.  Among  the  early  summer  folk 
were  Alpheus  Hardy,  the  Welds,  the  Minots,  the  Dorrs,  and  other 
Bostonians.  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  was  a  frequent  visitor  at  the 
Dorr  cottage  on  the  Schooner  Head  road. 

20.0  BAR  HARBOR.  Pop  (twp)  4441.  Hancock  Co.  Settled 
1763.  Summer  resort.  Steamboats  daily  to  Rockland. 

Bar  Harbor,  second  only  to  Newport  as  the  resort  of  fashion, 
is  beautifully  situated  on  the  east  coast  of  Mt.  Desert,  on 
Frenchmans  Bay,  opposite  the  little  Porcupine  Islands,  and 
about  two  miles  from  the  northeast  base  of  Green  Mountain. 
The  name  is  derived  from  a  sand  bar  which  is  uncovered  at  low 
water.  There  is  a  fine  view  across  the  harbor  of  the  hills  on 
the  mainland.  It  is  the  largest  town  in  the  State,  with  a 
valuation  of  over  $6,000,000. 

The  noteworthy  Shore  Walk  or  Tow  Path,  like  the  Cliff 
Walk  at  Newport,  has  the  sea  on  one  side  and  beautiful  villas 
and  lawns  on  the  other.  It  starts  beyond  the  Rockaway  Hotel, 
passes  the  Mt.  Desert  Reading  Room,  Balance  Rock  a  little 
further  on,  and  the  stone  tower  at  the  end  of  the  bowling 


BAR  HARBOR—  FRANKLIN 


alley  belonging  to  the  Villa  Edgemere,  then  Reef  Point,  the 
Briars,  Redwood,  Kenarden  Lodge,  and  Cromwells  Harbor, 
whence  a  private  road  leads  to  the  south  end  of  Main  Street. 
At  Cromwells  Harbor  is  the  George  W.  Vanderbilt  estate. 

There  are  a  great  many  walks  and  drives.  Some  of  the  most 
attractive  short  excursions  are  to  Eagle  Lake  (280  ft)  and 
the  Kebo  Valley  Country  Club,  a  center  of  the  fashionable  life. 
The  Building  of  Arts  is  a  Greek  edifice  with  an  open  amphi- 
theater, as  well  as  a  concert  hall,  for  dramatic  performances 
and  concerts.  The  ascent  of  Green  Mountain  (1527  ft),  either 
by  the  carriage  road  or  on  foot,  is  a  popular  excursion. 

The  Ocean  Drive,  returning  by  the  Gorge,  is  a  splendid  trip 
of  twelve  miles  taking  in  some  of  the  finest  points  on  the 
island.  It  leaves  Bar  Harbor  by  Main  St.  and  proceeds  south 
to  Schooner  Head  (3.8),  so  called  from  a  white  stain  on  the 
rock  which  is  supposed  to  resemble  the  sail  of  a  boat.  Near 
here  is  the  Spouting  Horn  and  the  Anemone  Cave.  A  mile 
beyond  a  detour  to  the  left  leads  to  Great  Head,  a  bold  promon- 
tory (140  ft),  commanding  a  fine  view.  Another  detour,  a 
mile  and  a  half  further  on,  leads  to  the  Otter  Cliffs  (188  ft), 
with  a  good  view.  Here,  turning  to  the  right,  the  route  goes 
north  through  the  Gorge  to  Bar  Harbor,  with  Newport  Moun- 
tain on  the  right  and  Dry  Mountain  on  the  left. 

Another  excursion  is  to  the  former  home  of  the  DeGregoire 
family  at  Hulls  Cove,  via  the  Bay  Drive.  The  so-called 
Twenty-two  Mile  Drive  proceeds  via  the  Eagle  Lake  Road  to 
the  north  end  of  Somes  Sound,  along  the  east  shore  of  the 
Sound  to  Northeast  Harbor,  and  past  Seal  Harbor  by  the 
beautiful  Sea  Cliff  Drive  to  Otter  Creek  and  the  Gorge.  There 
are  a  number  of  other  trips  over  excellent  roads  with  ever- 
changing  panoramas  of  sea,  lake,  and  mountain,  and  pedes- 
trians will  find  an  endless  variety  of  walks. 

SEAL  HARBOR,  on  the  south  side  of  the  island,  is  finely  situ- 
ated on  a  cove  with  a  splendid  bathing  beach.  This  is  a  grow- 
ing summer  colony  with  a  number  of  fine  estates.  Near  here 
is  the  beautiful  Jordan  Pond.  John  D.  Rockefeller,  Jr.,  has  a 
large  estate  on  the  hills  back  of  the  village. 

NORTHEAST  HARBOR  is  an  exclusive  summer  colony  on  the 
promontory  between  the  harbor  and  Somes  Sound.  The 
north  side  of  the  harbor  is  enclosed  by  the  peninsula  of  Asticou 
and  Bear  Island  lies  at  its  mouth.  The  colony  here  has 
rather  an  intellectual  tone  and  among  the  residents  is  former 
President  Eliot  of  Harvard. 

A  little  further  out  are  Sutton  Island  with  Great  Cranberry 
Isle  and  Little  Cranberry  Isle,  and  beyond,  Baker  Island  and 
its  lighthouse.  Most  of  these  islands  have  summer  colonies. 


R.    54  §  2.     ELLSWORTH  TO  CALAIS  77Q 

Off  the  promontory  lies  Greening  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  Somes 
Sound.  Across  the  Sound  is  Southwest  Harbor,  another 
flourishing  colony,  noted  for  its  yachting  and  for  its  deep-sea 
fishing.  It  is  reached  at  considerable  length  by  the  road  via 
Somesville,  a  village  at  the  head  of  the  Sound  where  there  is 
an  inn  much  frequented  for  its  chicken  dinners  and  popovers. 
Fernalds  Point,  two  miles  above,  is  said  to  be  the  site  of  the 
Jesuits'  luckless  little  colony.  Three  miles  to  the  south  is  the 
Sea  Wall,  a  curious  pebble  ridge,  a  mile  long  and  15  feet  high. 
The  trip  up  the  Sound  by  boat  is  very  beautiful,  for  its  cliff 
scenery  is  as  fine  as  some  of  the  Norwegian  fjords.  Perhaps 
the  finest  point  is  at  Eagle  Cliff  where  the  wall-like  face  of  Dog 
Mountain,  on  the  left,  rises  sheer  from  the  water  to  a  height 
of  nearly  500  feet.  Not  far  beyond  are  the  granite  quarries 
which  supplied  material  used  in  the  piers  of  Brooklyn  Bridge. 


R.  54  §  2.     Ellsworth  to  Calais.  100.0  m. 

From  Ellsworth  to  Machias  the  road  passes  over  a  pleasant 
rolling  country  and  through  several  villages,  part  of  the  great 
blueberry  region  of  Maine.  Three  quarters  of  the  country's 
supply  of  blueberries  for  canning  purposes  come  from  Washing- 
ton County.  The  back  country  which  stretches  away  to  the 
north  is  still  largely  woodland,  a  region  of  numberless  lakes  and 
streams  and  a  favorite  hunting  and  fishing  ground. 

The  route  now  follows  county  and  town  roads  toward  the 
support  of  which  the  State  contributes. 

Note.  A  less  direct  but  also  less  hilly  route  follows  the  coast 
line  via  Hancock,  and  Sullivan  Harbor,  where  the  view  of 
Mt.  Desert  excels  that  from  any  other  point,  past  the  summer 
resort  of  Sorrento.  At  West  Gouldsboro  (19.0)  the  road  forks 
left,  turning  inland  across  gently  rolling  country  through 
Gouldsboro,  Steuben,  and  Millbridge  to  Harrington  (41.0), 
where  it  joins  the  shorter  route  given  below. 

The  direct  route  takes  the  left  fork  at  North  Hancock  Post 
Office  (6.5),  at  the  head  of  Kilkenny  Cove,  and  climbs  over  a 
two-mile-wide  peninsula  to  the  hamlet  of  Egypt  (8.7)  on  Egypt 
Bay.  Skirting  the  irregular  shore  of  Taunton  Bay,  the  road 
parallels  R.R.  to 

12.5    FRANKLIN.    Pop    (twp)    1161.     Hancock   Co.     Settled   1784. 

Mfg.  lumber  and  granite. 

This  quiet  village  is  remote  from  the  tourist  and  summer 
resort  atmosphere.  The  forests  and  quarries  among  the  ponds 
supply  wood  and  stone  for  local  industries. 


780  FRANKLIN— EASTPORT 

At  Franklin  the  road  forks  left  at  the  Cherryfield  sign  post 
and  crosses  R.R.  The  route  leads  down  across  a  brook  and 
then  up  into  the  woods,  leaving  Donnells  Pond  and  the 
Tar  Pond  on  the  right,  and  climbing  over  a  steep  hill  at  the 
further  side  of  which  are  Long  and  Great  Tunk  Ponds.  After 
crossing  R.R.  (29.0),  the  road  forks  to  the  left  into 

29.5  CHERRYFIELD.  Pop  (twp)  1499.  Washington  Co.  Settled 
1757.  Mfg.  carriages,  wood  products  and  lumber,  canned 
blueberries. 

This  is  a  little  business  center  on  the  Narraguagus  river,  on 
the  edge  of  the  blueberry  barrens.  The  route  continues  east- 
ward up  a  steep  hill  and  across  a  woody  countryside  to 

J5.5     HARRINGTON.     Pop   (twp)   1020.     Settled  1765. 

The  village  is  pleasantly  placed  near  the  head  of  the  Har- 
rington river  and  is  occupied  with  blueberry-canning  and 
boatbuilding. 

The  route  leads  through  the  hamlet  of  Columbia  Falls 
(40.5),  where  it  crosses  the  Pleasant  river  and  takes  the  right 
fork  at  R.R.  Passing  through  Jonesboro  (48.8),  the  route 
continues  across  a  scantily  inhabited  country  to 

61.0  MACHIAS.  Pop  (twp)  2089.  Shire  town  of  Washington  Co. 
Settled  1763.  Indian  name  Machisses,  "  bad  small  falls." 
Port  of  Entry.  Mfg.  lumber,  carriages,  and  wood  products. 

Machias  is  a  village  with  lumber  interests  on  the  river  of 
the  same  name,  the  scene  of  the  first  naval  battle  of  the  Revo- 
lution, 'The  Lexington  of  the  Sea.'  Indian  hieroglyphics  are 
found  on  Birch  and  Clarks  Points  and  on  Hog  Island. 

In  1633  the  English  opened  a  trading  station  here  which  the  French 
destroyed;  they  in  turn  were  unable  to  settle  here  and  the  English  at 
last  gained  a  foothold  in  1763.  "After  Bunker  Hill  in  1775,  the  cap- 
tain of  an  armed  British  ship  'Margaretta'  saw  a  liberty  pole  on  shore 
which  he  ordered  cut  down,  but  the  Machias  patriots  replied  'Never!' 
A  band  of  fishermen  soon  seized  the  schooner  and  killed  the  captain. 
This  was  the  first  British  vessel  captured  by  the  Americans."  The  old 
Burnham  Tavern  (1760)  is  still  standing;  here  the  wounded  were 
brought  after  the  capture  of  the  British  schooner.  In  1812  the  town 
was  captured  by  the  British. 

Note.  An  attractive  route  from  Machias  to  Calais  is  that 
via  Eastport,  twenty-seven  miles  longer  than  the  route  below. 
It  is  endorsed  by  the  National  Highways  Association  and  is 
State  Road  throughout.  It  combines  good  roads  with  some 
of  the  most  beautiful  scenery  in  eastern  Maine,  and  from 
Eastport  the  islands  of  Campobello  and  Grand  Manan  are 
easily  visited. 

Leaving  the  direct  Calais  route  at  East  Machias,  it  proceeds 
through  the  villages  of  Whiting  (12.5),  Dennysville  (27.0),  and 
Pembroke  (35.5)  to 


R.   54  §  2.     ELLSWORTH  TO  CALAIS  781 

41.0    EASTPORT.     Alt  76  ft.     Pop  4961.     Washington  Co.     Settled 
1780.     Port  of  Entry.     Mfg.  canned  sardines,  shoes,  boats. 
Steamboats  connect  with  Boston  and  St.  John,  N.B. 
Eastport,  the  center  of  the  'sardine'  industry  of  America, 
and  the  most  easterly  city  in  the  United  States,  is  situated  on 
Moose  Island  in  Passamaquoddy  Bay.     Fort  Hill  at  the  center 
of  the  town  rises  to  a  height  of  200  feet.     This  is  a  rapidly 
growing  summer  resort  and  a  center  for  attractive  excursions 
to  the  islands  of  Campobello  and  Grand  Manan  and  the  popu- 
lar New  Brunswick  resort  of  St.  Andrews,  across  the  bay, 
reached  by  steamer  daily  during  the  summer. 

The  name  of  the  early  settlement  was  Moose  Island,  changed  in 
honor  of  its  being  the  most  easterly  town  in  the  United  States.  On 
Fort  Hill  are  the  scanty  remains  of  old  Fort  Sullivan.  The  old  man- 
sion, once  occupied  by  the  officers,  is  now  used  as  a  modern  tenement 
house.  The  Powder  House  is  the  rarest  landmark  in  Eastport.  From 
this  point  there  is  a  splendid  view  over  the  harbor,  Campobello,  and 
the  adjacent  islands.  Popes  Folly,  a  small  island  in  the  bay,  has 
been  a  bone  of  contention  between  England  and  America  for  more  than 
a  century.  The  British  ambassadors  have  made  several  trips  here  in 
an  endeavor  to  settle  the  dispute.  In  fact,  this  whole  northeast 
boundary  was  continually  under  discussion  from  1798  to  1910,  with 
armed  forces,  at  times,  on  the  border.  On  a  peninsula  to  the  south 
of  Eastport  is  the  picturesque  old  fishing  town  of  Lubec,  distant  three 
miles  as  the  crow  flies,  but  100  miles  distant  by  coast  line. 

From  Eastport  to  Calais  the  route  follows  the  River  Road 
along  the  west  bank  of  the  St.  Croix  for  almost  the  entire  dis- 
tance, one  of  the  most  beautiful  drives  in  eastern  Maine.  The 
little  villages  of  Perry  (48.5),  Robbinston  (57.0),  and  Red 
Beach  (61.0)  are  attractively  situated  on  the  coast,  but  con- 
tain nothing  of  great  interest.  Red  Beach  is  an  especially 
beautiful  spot  with  nearby  granite  quarries.  Calais  (60.5). 

The  shortest  and  best  route  from  Machias  to  Calais  crosses 
the  Machias  river,  a  coastal  stream,  fifty  miles  in  length,  which 
furnishes  a  little  waterpower  and  log-driving.  Following  the 
north  bank  to  the  little  village  of  East  Machias  (65.0),  the  road 
passes  the  foot  of  Hadley  Lake  to  the  left.  On  the  right  is 
Gardiner  Lake,  eight  miles  long,  home  of  the  summer  camp 
of  Engineering  of  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology. 

The  country  is  woody  and  thinly  settled.  Beyond  the  R.R. 
crossing  (71.0),  the  road  leaves  Rocky  Lake  a  mile  and  a  half 
to  the  northwest  and  bears  to  the  right  at  the  fork  (73.5)  past 
Patrick  Lake  on  the  left  and  Cathance  Lake  on  the  right,  to 
the  hamlet  of  MEDDYBEMPS  (87.0),  near  the  lake  of  the  same 
name.  At  the  crossroads,  one  mile  beyond  the  village,  the 
road  turns  to  the  left  and  then  left  again  at  the  Baring  sign 
post.  From  here,  the  road  is  gravel-surfaced.  On  the  left, 
half  a  mile  from  the  route,  is  the  little  village  of  Baring. 


782  EASTPORT— CALAIS 

From  here  the  road  descends  toward  the  shores  of  the  St. 
Croix  river  and  enters  the  manufacturing  village  of  MILLTOWN 
(98.5),  from  which  it  is  a  short  run  along  the  riverbank  to 

100.0  CALAIS.  Pop  (twp)  6116.  Washington  Co.  Settled  1779. 
Mfg.  lumber,  cotton,  shoes;  shipbuilding. 

Calais,  formerly  one  of  the  greatest  lumber  shipping  cities  of 
America  and  still  important  in  this  respect,  is  situated  on  the 
St.  Croix  river,  which  here  divides  Maine  from  the  province 
of  New  Brunswick.  The  valley  here  is  wide  and  deep  and 
the  banks  of  the  river  are  bold  and  picturesque.  The  Inter- 
national Bridge  connects  the  city  with  the  Canadian  town  of 
St.  Stephen.  Although  Calais  hardly  ships  a  tenth  of  the 
lumber  it  did  a  few  decades  ago,  it  still  largely  depends  upon 
the  great  trees  which  grow  at  the  headwaters  of  the  St.  Croix 
for  its  prosperity.  The  river  is  100  miles  long  and  besides  its 
use  for  logging  purposes  it  affords  20,500  h.p.  A  good  road 
leads  north  to  Houlton  (R.  57,  p  788). 

Calais  is  the  birthplace  and  summer  home  of  Prof.  C.  T. 
Copeland,  that  caustic  wit  beloved  of  Harvard  men,  to  whom 
he  is  known  familiarly  as  'Copey.'  Here,  too,  was  born  his 
disciple,  Henry  Milner  Rideout,  author  of  "Beached  Keels" 
and  "Dragon's  Blood."  "Even  when  I  first  beheld  him," 
says  Mr.  Copeland,  "barefoot,  ardent,  with  pockets  full  of 
fish,  there  was  discernible  an  essayist  and  weaver  of  romances 
beneath  his  scaly  integument." 

Big  Island,  now  Calais,  was  probably  visited  in  the  winter  of  1604-05 
by  Pierre  du  Guast,  although  the  first  settlement  was  not  until  1779. 
It  was  incorporated  as  a  town  in  1809  and  chartered  as  a  city  in  1851. 
During  the  War  of  1812,  the  citizens  of  Calais  and  St.  Stephen  formed 
an  agreement  by  which  they  refrained  from  mutual  hostilities. 


R.  55.     BRUNSWICK  to  QUEBEC.  253.0  m. 

This  route  for  eighty  miles  follows  the  beautiful  Kennebec 
valley  through  the  busy  little  cities  of  Gardiner  and  Augusta 
and  the  summer  resort  country  of  the  Belgrade  Lakes.  Thence 
the  route  runs  northward  through  the  hunting  grounds  of  the 
Maine  woods  midway  between  Rangeley  and  Moosehead 
Lakes.  It  crosses  the  height  of  land  overlooking  the  Lauren- 
tide  hills  and  the  Chaudiere  river  at  the  international  boundary 
and  descends  the  Chaudiere  valley  to  Quebec. 

The  road  is  State  and  National  Highway  to  the  Canadian 
line,  in  good  condition,  except  the  rough  stretch  of  40  miles 
over  the  watershed  and  the  boundary.  The  Canadian  section 
is  good  gravel  for  60  miles  and  macadam  for  the  last  20; 
$75,000  a  year  (1915-18)  has  been  set  aside  for  this  highway 
by  the  Province  of  Quebec. 

R.  55  §  1.     Brunswick  to  Augusta.  35.0  m. 

The  route  crosses  the  Androscoggin  river  from  Brunswick 
and  turns  right,  through  the  quiet  old  village  of  TOPSHAM, 
where  there  are  several  houses  of  a  ripe  old  age.  The  road 
follows  the  riverbank,  crossing  Muddy  River  and  climbing 
Sprague  hill,  which  overlooks  the  confluence  of  the  Andros- 
coggin and  the  Kennebec  at  Merrymeeting  Bay  and  affords 
a  lovely  view. 

The  route  follows  the  west  bank  of  the  Kennebec  closely 
all  the  way  to  Augusta.  It  soon  passes  through  BOWDOINHAM 
(9.0),  a  farming  town  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Kennebec. 
North  Bowdoin,  a  few  miles  away,  has  some  houses  which 
will  interest  the  antiquarian:  the  old  Baker  Tavern,  the 
John  Dennet  House,  and  others. 

Two  miles  and  a  half  beyond,  the  route  turns  right  and 
descends  to  the  meadows  by  the  river.  Beyond  the  village 
of  Richmond  (17.8)  it  passes  Iceboro,  a  village  about  eight 
miles  below  Gardiner  on  the  bank  of  the  Kennebec,  which  is 
said  to  have  the  largest  ice  houses  in  the  world.  About  a 
million  tons  are  shipped  yearly  to  all  parts  of  the  world. 

29.0     GARDINER.     Alt  22  ft.     Pop  5311.     Kennebec  Co.     Settled 

1759.     Mfg.  paper,  shoes,  and  machinery. 

Gardiner  is  a  thriving  little  manufacturing  city  at  the 
junction  of  the  Cobbosseecontee  and  the  Kennebec  rivers. 
The  Kennebec  is  ascended  by  large  vessels  to  this  point,  giving 
the  city  water  traffic  in  lumber  and  ice,  and  the  Cobbossee- 
contee river  falls  130  feet  in  one  mile,  furnishing  good  power 
for  paper,  flour,  and  saw  mills,  and  shoe  factories.  The  Com- 
mon is  on  Church  Hill  (125  ft),  from  which  there  is  a  good 

(783) 


784  GARDINER— QUEBEC 

view.  The  residential  section  of  the  town  is  on  this  high 
land  with  the  business  section  along  the  riverbank.  Opposite 
Gardiner  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Kennebec  is  its  parent  village 
of  Pittston.  About  six  miles  to  the  west  of  Gardiner  is  Lake 
Cobbosseecontee  with  good  bass  fishing.  It  belongs  to  the 
same  group  as  the  Belgrade  Lakes  (p  759). 

Gardiner  was  founded  by  Dr.  Sylvester  Gardiner  (1707-86)  and 
called  Gardinerston.  When  incorporated  in  1779  it  was  renamed 
Pittston  because  the  founder  was  then  a  Tory,  but  in  1803  the  part  of 
Pittston  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Kennebec  was  incorporated  as  a 
separate  town,  and,  as  its  prosperity  was  in  a  large  measure  due  to 
the  grandson  of  the  founder,  the  present  name  was  adopted.  It  was 
chartered  as  a  city  in  1849. 

33.5     HALLO  WELL.     Alt  53  ft.     Pop  2864.     Kennebec  Co.     Settled 

1754.     Mfg.  granite,  paper,  and  shoes. 

Hallowell,  chiefly  noted  for  its  large  granite  quarries,  is  a 
quiet  little  city  on  the  Kennebec  just  below  Augusta. 

35.0    AUGUSTA  (p  758). 


R.  55  §  2.    Augusta  to  Quebec.  218.0m. 

From  Augusta  to  Waterville,  follow  Route  53  (p  758). 

At  Waterville  the  route  continues  via  Main  St.  northward 
through  the  village  of  Fairfield  Center  (23.0).  The  country 
is  hilly,  but  there  are  no  severe  grades. 

Note.  The  State  Highway  follows  the  west  bank  of  the 
Kennebec  river,  but  has  been  in  bad  repair  of  late. 

35.8  SKOWHEGAN.  Pop  (twp)  5341.  Shire  town  of  Somerset 
Co.  Settled  1770.  Indian  name  meaning  "  spearing,"  or 
"  watering  place."  Mfg.  pulp,  paper,  and  woolens. 

Skowhegan  is  a  manufacturing  town  on  the  Kennebec. 
There  are  several  century-old  houses  and  taverns  here,  of 
which  perhaps  the  most  interesting  are  the  fine  old  Dyer  house 
and  the  Locke  Tavern  on  the  south  side  of  the  river. 

In  1823  Skowhegan  was  separated  from  Canaan  and  called 
Milburn.  In  1836  its  present  name  was  adopted.  Benedict 
Arnold's  expedition  camped  here  on  its  way  to  Quebec  in  1775. 

Note.  From  Skowhegan,  a  longer  route  follows  the  State 
Highway  along  the  south  bank  of  the  Kennebec  through 
Norridgewock  (5.5;  p  741),  and  then  turns  north  through 
the  industrial  village  of  Madison  (13.5)  and  North  Anson 
(18.5;  p  756).  Crossing  the  Kennebec,  this  detour  joins  the 
main  route  at  Solon  (26.5). 

The  direct  route  from  Skowhegan  leads  over  a  very  good 
road  across  a  rather  hilly  country.  Leaving  the  town  via 
Madison  Ave.,  the  route  follows  the  trolley  to  the  hamlet  of 
Madison  Center  (41.0)  beside  Hayden  Lake,  and  forks  right. 


R.   55   §   2.     AUGUSTA  TO  QUEBEC  785 

SOLON  (50.0)  is  a  pleasant  village  near  the  Carritunk  Falls 
of  the  Kennebec.  The  detour  from  Skowhegan  through  Nor- 
ridgewock  and  North  Anson  rejoins  the  route  here. 

The  Highway  continues  along  the  east  bank  of  the  Kennebec, 
passing  through  Bingham  (58.5).  The  road  now  grows  nar- 
rower and  enters  the  twenty-mile  canyon  of  the  Kennebec, 
from  500  to  noo  feet  deep. 

Going  straight  through  the  crossroads  hamlet  of  Carritunk 
the  route  reaches  The  Forks  (81.0)  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Dead  river,  from  the  left,  and  the  Kennebec,  from  the  right. 

The  route  bears  left  along  Dead  River  for  a  mile  and  then 
leads  up  over  the  hills,  climbing  by  a  rather  rough  and  narrow 
road  to  the  height  of  land  between  the  Kennebec  and  the 
St.  Lawrence  basins.  Passing  by  Lake  Parlin  (96.5),  on  the 
right,  the  road  reaches  JACKMAN  (109.0),  where  the  U.S. 
Customs  Office  is  located.  A  State  Highway  is  under  con- 
struction from  here  to  Rockwood,  on  Moosehead  Lake. 

The  road  winds  onward  and  upward  to  the  Canadian  bound- 
ary line  (124.0),  where  the  descent  toward  the  Chaudiere  val- 
ley commences.  The  view  northward  extends  to  the  range 
of  the  Laurentides,  beyond  Quebec. 

This  section  of  the  road  (to  St.  George)  is  the  least  improved 
on  the  route.  It  passes  through  Armstrong  (135.5),  St.  Clune 
(144.5),  Jersey  (152.0),  and  St.  George,  little  Canadian  ham- 
lets, joining  the  Chaudiere  river  at  the  last  named.  The  road 
from  here  on  is  very  good.  At  BEAUCEVILLE  (164.0)  is  the 
Canadian  Customs  Office.  The  road  follows  the  right  bank 
of  the  river  through  a  thinly  populated  country,  where  little 
English  is  spoken.  The  villages  on  the  route  are:  St.  Joseph 
(174.0),  Beauce  Junction  (179.5),  Ste.  Marie  (186.5),  where 
the  road  leaves  the  river,  Scott  Junction  (191.5),  St.  Henri 
(206.0),  and  Levis  (217.5),  where  the  Quebec  ferry  across 
the  St.  Lawrence  is  situated  (25  cents,  car  and  driver;  5 
cents,  each  passenger). 
218.0  QUEBEC. 


R.  56.     NEWPORT  to  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE.  57.0  m. 

The  route  leads  across  a  pleasant  farming  country  which 
grows  wilder  and  more  hilly  beyond  Guilford.  Moosehead 
Lake,  the  goal  of  this  trip,  is  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water 
in  New  England,  in  the  heart  of  the  hunting  and  fishing  region. 
An  attractive  variant  from  this  route  is  the  Highway  between 
Guilford  and  Bangor  which  connects  the  Moosehead  Lake 
country  with  the  Bar  Harbor  district.  The  main  route  and 
this  connecting  link  are  State  Highways  except  a  ten-mile 
stretch  of  good  town  road.  The  roads  are  mainly  gravel. 

The  route  starts  from  Newport  (p  760)  on  High  St.,  at  the 
crossroads.  It  crosses  R.R.  a  mile  from  the  village  and  fol- 
lows the  tracks,  on  the  right,  into  the  typical  agricultural 
village  of  Corinna  (6.5).  The  route  crosses  R.R.  here  and 
bears  left.  Two  miles  and  a  half  beyond,  it  turns  left,  at  the 
crossroads,  and  again  at  the  end  of  the  road  (13.5). 

15.0  DEXTER.  Alt  380  ft.  Pop  (twp)  3530.  Penobscot  Co.  Set- 
tled 1801.  Mfg.  woolens,  lumber  and  foundry  products, 
and  canned  goods. 

The  road  goes  straight  through  the  little  manufacturing 
town.  Four  miles  beyond,  the  route  leaves  the  State  High- 
way which  leads  to  Dover,  and  bears  left  at  the  crossroads, 
passing  through  the  villages  of  Silvers  Mills  (20.5)  and  Sanger- 
ville  (28.5),  both  with  woolen  mills,  turning  left  (28.5),  and 
then  forking  right  parallel  with  the  Piscataquis  river. 

In  the  village  of  Guilford  (30.0)  the  route  rejoins  the  State 
Highway,  bearing  left  on  Elm  St.  Guilford  is  also  the  point 
where  the  route  to  Bangor,  via  Dover,  branches  to  the  east. 

The  route  continues  beside  the  river  through  Abbot  Lower 
Village  (34.0),  and  Abbot  (35.5).  At  the  latter  it  crosses  the 
river  and  turns  left,  bearing  right  beyond  the  school  house 
(37-5)-  Passing  through  MONSON  (41.5),  where  there  are 
some  fine  slate  quarries,  the  road  forks  left  half  a  mile  beyond, 
at  the  Moosehead  Lake  sign  post,  leading  uphill  through  a  wild 
country.  At  the  crossroads  (47.5)  the  road  bears  right  to 
Greenville  (55.5),  and  Greenville  Junction  (57.0),  the  starting 
point  for  steamers  to  Kineo. 

MOOSEHEAD  LAKE,  the  largest  in  Maine,  and  the  largest 
inland  body  of  water  wholly  in  New  England,  is  35  miles  long 
and  from  i  to  15  wide  with  a  shore  line  of  about  400  miles. 
The  lake  lies  1000  feet  above  the  sea  in  the  midst  of  the  great 
wilderness  of  northern  Maine,  a  land  of  mountain,  lake,  and 
forest,  world  famous  as  a  hunting  and  fishing  center.  The 
steamer  from  Greenville  runs  to  Deer  Island  and  (17.0)  the  Mt. 
Kineo  House,  on  a  peninsula  which  projects  into  the  lake  on 

(786) 


R.    56.      NEWPORT  TO   MOOSEHEAD   LAKE  787 

the  east  side  to  within  a  mile  of  the  opposite  shore.  Back  of 
the  hotel  rises  Mt.  Kineo  (1760  ft).  This  is  one  of  the  favorite 
resorts  of  Maine  and  among  the  attractions  are  fine  golf  links. 
It  is  the  starting  point  for  camping  trips  to  the  upper  waters 
of  the  Penobscot  and  the  St.  John,  and  for  the  Allagash  Lakes. 
From  Mt.  Kineo  the  steamer  continues  to  the  end  of  the  lake 
at  either  Northeast  or  Northwest  Carry,  the  starting  point 
for  most  of  the  canoe  trips  above  mentioned.  Northeast 
Carry  is  only  two  miles  from  the  Penobscot  river. 

Note.  On  the  return  trip  from  the  Moosehead  country  an 
alternate  route  to  Bangor  turns  left  at  GUILFORD,  beside  the 
Odd  Fellows'  Hall,  and  crosses  the  Piscataquis  river  and  the 
R.R.,  turning  right  and  following  the  north  bank  through 
a  splendid  farming  country  bordering  the  Piscataquis  to 
Foxcroft  (7.5).  Curving  to  the  right  on  Main  St.  and  crossing 
the  river,  the  route  enters 

8.0  DOVER.  Alt  362  ft.  Pop  (twp)  2091.  Shire  town  of  Piscata- 
quis Co.  Settled  1803.  Mfg.  woolens. 

Dover  is  the  distributing  center  for  this  agricultural  district. 
Some  manufacturing  of  woolen  goods  and  furniture  is  carried 
on  here  as  at  Foxcroft,  on  the  opposite  bank. 

The  route  bears  right  at  the  crossroads  and  between  Dover 
and  West  Charleston  traverses  a  hilly  country.  The  view 
from  the  summit  of  the  hill  just  before  entering  West  Charles- 
ton is  especially  fine. 

20.0     WEST   CHARLESTON.     Pop   (Charleston  twp)   864.     Penob- 
scot Co.     Settled  1795. 

The  route  continues  through  a  farming  region,  passing  the 
hamlets  of  East  Corinth  (25.0)  and  Kenduskeag  (33.0),  and 
crossing  a  low  range  of  hills  to 
47.0    BANGOR  (p  761). 


R.  57.     BELFAST  via  BANGOR  to  HOULTON. 

168.0  m. 

This  route  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Penobscot  to  Matta- 
wamkeag,  where  it  enters  Aroostook  County,  noted  for  potatoes, 
as  well  as  for  hunting  and  fishing. 

R.  57  §  1.     Belfast  to  Bangor.  34.5  m. 

For  Belfast  to  Prospect,  see  Route  54  (p  772).  From  PROS- 
PECT (14.5)  the  route  continues  between  Mt.  Waldo  (1062  ft) 
and  Heagan  Mountain  (560  ft),  through  the  hamlet  of  Frank- 
fort (18.5).  From  here  the  route  follows  the  west  bank  through 
Winterport  (21.5)  and  Hampden  (28.5)  to 
34.5  BANGOR  (R.  S3,  p  761). 

R.  57  §  2.     Bangor  to  Houlton.  133.5  m. 

Leaving  Bangor  via  State  St.,  the  route  follows  the  trolley 
through  Yeazie  (4.2),  with  its  great  dam,  to 

7.7     ORONO.     Alt  78  ft.     Pop  (twp)  3SSS.     Penobscot  Co.     Settled 

1774.     Mfg.  pulp,  paper,  shoes,  and  lumber  products. 
This  is  the  seat  of  the  University  of  Maine. 

13.0  OLD  TOWN.  Alt  100  ft.  Pop  6317.  Penobscot  Co.  Set- 
tled 1774.  Mfg.  lumber,  canoes,  paper,  and  woolens. 

Several  lumber  companies,  the  Old  Town  Canoe  Company, 
the  American  Woolen  Company,  and  the  Penobscot  Chemical 
Fibre  Company  have  plants  here.  Guides  for  the  backwoods 
make  this  their  headquarters. 

Visitors  to  the  Indian  reservation  are  welcomed  and  there  the  Indians 
may  be  seen  making  baskets,  snowshoes,  and  other  native  products. 
The  tribe,  approximately  400,  is  domiciled  on  Indian  Island. 

The  route  follows  the  east   bank,  through  Milford  (13.5), 
Costigan  (18.5),  Olamon  (27.5),  Passadumkeag   (32.0),  West 
Enfield  (36.8),  South  Lincoln  (43.7),  and  Lincoln  (49.0). 
62.5     MATTAWAMKEAG.  Alt  212  ft.  Pop  (twp)  517.  Penobscot  Co. 

The  village  lies  at  the  junction  of  a  stream  of  the  same  name 
and  the  Penobscot.  The  town's  name  is  an  Indian  expression, 
meaning  "down  a  stream  which  empties  into  the  main  river." 
The  Maine  Central  R.R.  Locomotive  Works  are  located  here. 

Aroostook  County  has  won  renown  by  its  potato  crop  of  approxi- 
mately 15,000,000  bushels  a  year,  valued  at  $9,000,000.  It  is  said  to 
contain  the  largest  area  of  fertile  farming  land  in  New  England,  a  deep 
yellow  porous  loam  above  a  stratum  of  limestone. 

One  half  mile  beyond  Macwahoc  (78.4)  turn  left  through 
Silver  Ridge,  Golden  Ridge,  Island  Falls  (106.4),  Dyer  Brook 
(113.3),  Smyrna  Mills  (117.0),  and  Ludlow  (123.8). 

133.5    HOULTON.     Alt  357  ft.   Pop  (twp)  5845.    Shire  town  of  Aroos- 
took Co.     Settled  1807.     Mfg.  lumber,  granite,  and  woolens. 
Houlton  is  the  largest  town  in  northeastern  Maine  and  the 
distributing  center  for  a  lumbering  and  agricultural  district. 

(788) 


CLASSIFIED    DIRECTORIES 


THE   CLASSIFIED   DIRECTORIES 

In  these  Directories  the  purpose  is  to  present  in 
alphabetically  classified  lists,  readily  accessible  for 
reference,  information  of  value  to  travelers  and  others 
interested  in  New  England. 

In  future  Editions  these  will  be  greatly  amplified 
and  many  new  classifications  included.  It  is  hoped 
eventually  to  make  these  Directories  of  the  highest 
value,  not  only  as  a  source  of  information  to  the 
users  of  the  book,  but  also  as  a  means  of  publicity. 

The  inclusion  of  information  will  be  primarily  de- 
pendent upon  its  value  to  the  buyer  of  the  book.  It 
is  only  appropriate,  however,  that  firms  who  benefit 
from  this  publicity  should  pay  for  it,  supplying  a 
legitimate  source  of  revenue. 

In  common  with  all  the  books  of  this  Series  "noth- 
ing will  be  admitted  to  the  paid  space  that  does  not 
add  value  to  the  book  for  the  man  who  buys  it."  All 
copy  will  be  edited  for  "maximum  of  concise  and 
accurate  information  in  theminimum  of  space." 


FERRIES   AND  STEAMSHIPS 

TARRYTOWN— NYACK.  Every  half-hour  from  6  A.M.  to  7  P.M. 
Fare  15  cts.;  Automobiles  35  cts.  to  $i,  including  chauffeur. 

GARRISON— WEST  POINT.  Half-hour  or  three-quarter  hour 
sendee  from  7  A.M.  to  6  P.M.  Fare  15  cts.;  Automobiles  50  cts., 
including  chauffeur. 

BEACON — NEWBURGH.  Quarter  and  half-hour  service  from 
6  A.M.  to  1 1.30  P.M.  Fare  7  cts.;  Automobiles  30  to  35  cts.,  including 
chauffeur. 

POUGHKEEPSIE— HIGHLAND.  Every  half-hour.  Fare  7  cts.; 
Automobiles  30  to  35  cts.,  including  chauffeur. 

RHINECLIFF— KINGSTON.  Every  hour.  Fare  23  cts.;  Auto- 
mobiles 38  to  50  cts.,  including  chauffeur. 

TIVOLI — SAUGERTIES.  Fare  25  cts.;  Automobiles  50  cts., 
including  chauffeur. 

GREENDALE — CATSKILL.     Half-hourly  to  hourly  service  from 

6  A.M.  to  7  P.M.     Fare  10  cts.;  Automobiles  40  cts.,  incl.  chauffeur. 

HUDSON— ATHENS.     Half-hourly  service. 

RYE,  N.Y.— SEA  CLIFF,  L.I.  Ferry.  Every  two  hours.  10 
A.M.  to  8  P.M.  Automobiles  $1.50  up.  Passengers  15  cts. 

BRIDGEPORT  LINE.  From  Pier  27,  East  River,  New  York,  to 
Pequonnock  Wharf,  Bridgeport.  Leaves  New  York  3  P.M.  daily 
except  Sundays.  Leaves  Bridgeport  at  8  A.M.  except  Sundays. 
Fare  one  way  60  cts. 

BRIDGEPORT,  CONN.— PORT  JEFFERSON,  L.I.  Ferry. 
Two  trips  daily  during  summer  months.  Fare  75  cts.  Runabouts 
$3  up.  Touring  cars  $5  up. 

NEW  HAVEN,  CONN.— PORT  JEFFERSON,  L.I.  Ferry.  One 
trip  daily.  Fare  75  cts.;  Automobiles  $3  to  $8. 

NEW  LONDON— GROTON,  CONN.  Ferry.  At  20  and  30  min- 
ute intervals  from  5  A.M.  to  MIDNIGHT.  First  Sunday  boat  7.05  A.M. 
Fare  3  cts.;  Automobiles  1 8  to  33  cts. 

NEW  LONDON,  CONN.— SAG  HARBOR,  L.I.  Montauk  Steam- 
boat Co.  Summer  service.  Two  boats  daily  in  each  direction. 
Automobiles  $4  up,  including  chauffeur. 

SAUNDERSTOWN— JAMESTOWN— NEWPORT,  R.I.  Ferry. 
Hourly  service  the  year  round;  boats  leave  half  after  the  hour  from 

7  A.M.  to  6.30  P.M.     Half-hourly  trips  during  July  and  August;  boats 
leave  on  the  hour  and  half-hour.     Automobiles  carried. 

(791) 


792  FERRIES   AND   STEAMSHIPS 

WICKFORD  LANDING— NEWPORT,  R.I.  Steamboat  trans- 
fer. Four  boats  in  each  direction,  week-days. 

PROVIDENCE,  R.I.— BLOCK  ISLAND.  Round-trip  boat  daily, 
leaving  Providence  g  A.M.  and  stopping  at  Newport. 

PROVIDENCE,  R.I.— NEW  YORK.  COLONIAL  LINE.  Boat 
daily  in  each  direction.  Summer  fare  $1.90. 

PROVIDENCE,  R.I.— NEW  YORK.  PROVIDENCE  LINE.  Sum- 
mer season  only.  $3. 

BRISTOL,  R.I.— BRISTOL  FERRY.  FOR  NEWPORT,  R.I. 
Hourly  service.  Automobiles  75  cts.  up,  including  chauffeur. 

FALL  RIVER,  MASS.— NEW  YORK.  FALL  RIVER  LINE.  Boat 
every  night  in  the  year.  Stops  at  Newport,  R.I.  Connects  with 
Boston  trains.  Summer  fare  $3. 

NEW  BEDFORD,  MASS.— NEW  YORK.     Summer  only.     $3. 

NEW  BEDFORD,  MASS.— WOODS  HOLE,  OAK  BLUFFS  and 
NANTUCKET.  Several  trips  daily  in  summer;  one  in  winter. 

BOSTON — NEW  YORK.  METROPOLITAN  LINE.  All  the  way 
by  water.  Leaves  either  city  6  P.M.  daily  in  summer  only.  Running 
time  about  13?  hours.  $4. 

BOSTON— PORTLAND,  ME.  Night  boat  in  each  direction, 
including  Sundays  in  July  and  August.  Summer  fare  $1.50.  Day 
boat  three  times  a  week  between  Boston  and  Portland,  Eastport, 
Lubec,  and  St.  John,  N.B. 

BOSTON — BATH,  ME.,  and  other  points  on  the  Kennebec  River. 
Daily  in  summer.  Boston  to  Bath  $1.75. 

BOSTON — BANGOR,  ME.,  and  Penobscot  Bay  and  River  points. 
Daily  in  summer.  Boston  to  Bangor  $4. 

BOSTON— PLYMOUTH,  MASS.  Daily  in  summer  starting  at 
10  A.M.  Round  trip  $i. 

BOSTON— PROVINCETOWN,  MASS.  A  four-hour  trip  across 
Massachusetts  Bay.  Daily  in  summer  starting  at  9  A.M.;  Sundays 
9.30  A.M.  Round  trip  $1.25. 

BOSTON — GLOUCESTER,  MASS.     Two  boats  daily  in  summer. 

PORTSMOUTH,  N.H.— ISLES  OF  SHOALS.  Three  boats 
daily,  connecting  with  trains  from  Boston. 

PORTLAND,  ME.— NEW  YORK.  All  the  way  by  water.  Three 
times  a  week.  Running  time  22  hours. 

PORTLAND,  ME.— ROCKLAND,  ME.  Three  times  a  week, 
making  intermediate  stops. 

PORTLAND,  ME.— CASCO  BAY  POINTS.  Frequent  trips 
daily  in  summer,  to  Forest  City,  Peaks  Island,  Cushing's  and  Long 
Island,  Little  and  Great  Chebeague,  Bailey's  and  Orr's  Islands, 
South  Harpswell,  and  other  points. 


FERRIES   AND    STEAMSHIPS  793 

BATH,  ME.— WOOLWICH,  ME.  Ferry.  6  A.M.  to  6  P.M. 
Until  1 1 .30  P.M.  in  summer.  Automobiles  50  cts.,  including  chauffeur. 
Extra  passengers  5  cts. 

BATH,  ME.— BOOTHBAY  HARBOR— PEMAQUID.  Daily  in 
summer,  making  about  20  intermediate  stops. 

DAMARISCOTTA,  ME.— CHRISTMAS  COVE.  Daily  boat. 
Connecting  in  July  and  August  to  Pemaquid.  No  autos  carried. 

THOMASTON,  ME.— PORT  CLYDE,  MONHEGAN,  and 
BOOTHBAY  HARBOR.  Boat  leaves  Thomaston  7  A.M.,  June  i  to 
October  i;  returning,  leaves  Boothbay  Harbor  12.45  P-M- 

ROCKLAND,  ME.  —  PENOBSCOT  BAY  —  MT.  DESERT 
POINTS.  Two  lines  of  steamers.  Daily  in  summer.  Connecting 
with  Boston  boats. 

RpCKLAND,  ME.— CASTINE  and  SARGENT VILLE.  Inter- 
mediate stops.  Daily  in  summer. 

BUCKSPORT,  ME.— PROSPECT,  ME.  Boat  service  night  and 
day  in  summer.  Automobiles  $i,  including  two  persons.  Extra 
passengers  10  cts.  each. 

BUCKSPORT,  ME.— CAMDEN,  ME.— Steamer  leaves  Bucks- 
port  8  A.M.  daily  for  Camden  and  intermediate  stops.  Returning 
leaves  Camden  12.30  P.M.  Automobile  rates  $3  to  $8,  depending  on 
number  of  passengers. 

MT.  DESERT  FERRY,  ME.— BAR  HARBOR,  SEAL,  NORTH- 
EAST and  SOUTHWEST  HARBORS.  Three  trips  daily  in  summer. 

LUBEC,  ME.— NORTH  LAKE,  EASTPORT,  and  CAMPO- 
BELLO.  Ferry.  Frequent  trips  in  summer. 

EASTPORT,  ME.— CALAIS,  ME.  Boat  daily,  stopping  at  St. 
Andrews,  Robbinston,  and  Red  Beach. 

MOOSEHEAD  LAKE,  ME.  Steamer  connects  with  trains  at 
Kineo  Station  and  Greenvill  Jet.  for  points  on  the  lake. 

SEBAGO  LAKE  STEAMERS.  Leave  Sebago  Lake  Station  twice 
daily,  on  arrival  of  morning  and  afternoon  trains  from  Portland,  for 
Songo  River,  Harrison,  Me.,  and  intermediate  stops. 

LAKE  WINNEPESAUKEE,  N.H.  Steamers  between  Alton  Bay, 
Weirs,  and  Center  Harbor.  Connecting  with  morning  trains  from 
Boston. 

LAKE  SUNAPEE,  N.H.  Steamers  leave  Sunapee  Station  four 
times  daily,  except  Sunday,  for  lake  points. 

BURLINGTON,  VT.— LAKE  CHAMPLAIN  POINTS.  Twice 
daily  in  summer.  Automobiles  carried,  except  limousines  over  7  feel 
in  height. 


DIRECTORY    OF    HOTELS,    TEA    ROOMS, 
GARAGES,    REAL    ESTATE,    SHOPS,    ETC. 

ALTON    BAY,  N.H. 

OAKBIRCH  INN  and  Bungalows.  F.  D.  Van  Vechten,  Owner. 
All  kinds  of  summer  sports.  Desirable  accommodations  for 
motor  tourists.  $2.50  and  up.  Good  appointments.  On  Lake 
Winnepesaukee.  Garage.  Automobiles  for  hire.  Booklet. 

ANTRIM,  N.H. 

GREYSTONE  LODGE.  Splendid  mountain  views.  Open  the  year 
round.  $3  per  day,  $14  per  week,  and  up.  Garage. 

ASCUTNEYVILLE,  Vt. 
"THE    CORNER    CUPBOARD  TEA  HOUSE."     Antiques. 

ASHFIELD,  Mass. 
ASHFIELD  HOUSE.     W.  L.  Porter,  Prop.     $15  and  up  per  week. 

ASHLAND,    Mass. 
FREDERICK  A.  KING.     REAL  ESTATE.     (See  Framingham.) 

AUBURNDALE,  Mass. 

WOODLAND  PARK  HOTEL.  Harry  T.  Miller,  Prop.  American 
plan.  Excellent  Cuisine.  Garage. 

AUGUSTA,  Me. 

AUGUSTA  HOUSE.  Wilbur  T.  Emerson,  Mgr.  Near  the  State 
Capitol.  American  plan:  $3  up. 

NEW  CAPITAL  GARAGE.     Fifield  Bros.  Co.     Always  open. 

BANGOR,  Me. 

THE  BANGOR  HOUSE.  H.  C.  Chapman  Hotel  Co.  Rates  $2.50- 
$4  per  day.  Capacity  300. 

BAR    HARBOR,  Me. 

NEWPORT  HOUSE  and  Cottages.  Thos.  P.  Jones,  Prop.  This 
is  the  only  hotel  directly  on  the  waterfront,  an  attractive  loca- 
tion on  the  shore  of  Frenchman's  Bay.  It  is  A  FAVORITE  STOP- 
PING PLACE  popular  with  automobile  tourists.  All  the  rooms 
are  large  and  comfortably  furnished.  Splendid  meals  are  served. 

(704) 


DIRECTORY   OF   HOTELS,   GARAGES,   ETC.  795 

The  best  of  dairy  and  vegetable  products  and  fresh  sea  foods. 
Mr.  Jones,  the  proprietor,  is  widely  known  through  his  manage- 
ment of  the  Harvard  Club  of  Boston.  American  plan.  Rates 
$4  per  day  and  up;  $24.50  per  week  and  up. 

THE   LOUISBURG.     L.  C.  Prior,  Prop,  and  Mgr.     $4  up.     Garage. 
A.  E.  LAWRENCE    CO.     Cottage  St.     GARAGE.     Auto  Supplies. 

BARNSTABLE,  Mass. 
BARNSTABLE  INN.     A.  M.  Nickerson,  Jr.,  Prop.     Capacity  40. 

HORACE  S.  CROWELL.  60  State  St.,  Boston.  REAL  ESTATE 
BROKER.  Buzzards  Bay  and  Cape  Cod. 

BARRE,  Vt. 

HOTEL  BARRE.     J.  V.  Rowen,  Mgr.     Opened  in  1915.     $2. 50  to  $5. 
BARRE   GARAGE.     Drown  Motor  Car  Co.,  Props.     Storage. 

BARTLETT,  N.H. 
THE    HOWARD  HOTEL.     W.  H.  Irish,  Mgr.     Open  all  the  year. 

BATH,   Me. 

NEW    MEADOWS    INN.     C.  H.  Cahill,  Prop.     Lobster  dinners. 
BEACH    BLUFF,  Mass. 

HOTEL  PRESTON.  J.  A.  Sherrard,  Prop.  An  imposing  structure, 
delightfully  located  on  a  bluff  overlooking  the  ocean.  Capacity 
300.  Rooms  singly  or  en  suite,  with  and  without  baths.  The 
best  of  service,  cuisine,  and  modern  hotel  equipment.  Bathing 
beach.  Our  own  garage  and  livery.  American  plan:  $5  up. 

BEACH    PARK,  Conn. 

CASINO  HOTEL.  If  tired  of  extortion,  tired  of  gimcrack  show, 
and  longing  for  oldfashioned  honesty,  comfort,  and  satisfying 
meals,  expertly  prepared,  try  this  little  place,  kept  by  Blake 
and  Wife.  Just  try  her  clam-fritters  and  lobster.  Suits  and 
everything  ready  for  a  sea-bath,  if  wanted,  before  sitting  down 
in  our  airy,  cool,  sea-view  dining-room.  You'll  come  again — 
others  do.  (Phone,  telegraph,  post  office,  supply  store,  right 
here.)  SIGNS  POINT  TO  us  FROM  HIGHWAY,  EAST  OF  CLINTON; 
macadamized  State  Road,  i  mile. 

BELGRADE    LAKES,  Me. 

THE  BELGRADE.  C.  A.  Hill  &  Son,  Props,  and  Mgrs.  $3.50 
up.  Rooms  en  suite  with  baths.  Garage  for  50  machines. 

BENNINGTON,  Vt. 

THE   WALLOOMSAC     INN.     Walter  H.  Berry,  Prop.     $3  up. 
THE    BENNINGTON    GARAGE.     Storage  and  Supplies. 


7Q6  DIRECTORY  OF   HOTELS,   GARAGES,   ETC. 

BETHLEHEM,  N.H. 

THE  SINCLAIR  HOTEL.  Harrington  &McAuliffe.  Capacity  300. 
Rate  $4  up.  Garage. 

THE  UPLANDS.     Frank  H.  Abbott  &  Son,  Props,  and  Mgrs. 
TURNER'S  TAVERN.     Geo.  H.  Turner,  Prop.     $3  and  $3.50 

BOOTHBAY  HARBOR,  Me. 

OAKE    GROVE   HOTEL.     W.  H.  Read   &   Son.     American  plan. 
SHERMAN'S  GARAGE.     Chas.  E.  Sherman  &  Son,  Props. 

BOSTON,    Mass. 

HOTEL  BRUNSWICK,  Boylston  Street,  near  Copley  Square. 
Fred  E.  Jones,  Prop,  and  Mgr.  One  block  from  Public  Library. 
Leading  theaters  and  smartest  shops  are  nearby.  Modern  and 
popular  GRILL  ROOM  and  FLEMISH  CAFE.  Superior  cuisine 
and  service.  Club  breakfasts,  special  hot  and  cold  luncheons, 
and  table  d'hote  dinners.  Suites  of  one  or  several  rooms  with 
bath.  Homelike  surroundings.  AMPLE  ACCOMMODATIONS  for 
TOURING  PARTIES  or  PERMANENT  GUESTS.  European  plan: 
$1.50  up;  American  plan :  $4  up. 

COPLEY-PLAZA  HOTEL,  Copley  Square.  Edward  C.  Fogg,  Man 
aging  Director.  Capacity  500.  All  rooms  with  bath.  Single, 
$3  to  $5.  Double,  $5  to"$8. 

HOTEL  PURITAN,  390  Commonwealth  Ave.  C.  G.  Costello,  Mgr. 
Attractive  and  Homelike.  Capacity  200.  European  plan: 

$2  Up. 

HOTEL  THORNDIKE.     Opposite  Public  Garden.     European  plan. 

BOURNE,  Mass. 

HORACE  S.  CROWELL.  60  State  St.,  Boston.  REAL  ESTATE 
BROKER.  Buzzards  Bay  and  Cape  Cod. 

BRANFORD,  Conn. 
THE    MONTOWESE.     W.    A.    Bryan.     Capacity   250. 

BRATTLEBORO,    Vt. 
BROOKS    HOUSE.     Geo.  E.  Sherman,  Mgr.     Garage. 

BRETTON    WOODS,  N.H. 

THE  MOUNT  WASHINGTON.  D.  J.  Trudeau,  Mgr.  Capacity 
550.  Transient  rates  $7  up. 

BREWSTER,  Mass. 
THE    SIGN    OF   THE    LINDEN    TREE.     Afternoon  Tea. 


DIRECTORY  OF  HOTELS,   GARAGES,  ETC.  7Q7 

BRIDGEPORT,  Conn. 

THE  STRATFIELD.  F.  A.  Cantwell,  Mgr.  275  rooms,  260  with 
bath.  European  plan :  $1.50  up. 

BROOKLINE,  Mass. 

FRANK  A.  RUSSELL.  REAL  ESTATE  Exclusively.  1315  Beacon 
St.  (Coolidge  Corner)  and  Old  South  Bldg.,  Boston. 

BURLINGTON,  Vt. 

THE  NEW  SHERWOOD.  B.  W.  Freeman,  Mgr.  197  rooms, 
75  with  bath.  Roof  Garden.  American  plan. 

VAN    NESS    HOUSE.     E.  P.  Woodbury,  Prop.     Roof  Garden. 
HOTEL    VERMONT.     R.   F.  Collamer,  Mgr.     350  rooms. 

BUZZARDS    BAY,  Mass. 
H.  NELSON   EMMONS   &    CO.     REAL  ESTATE.     Office,  Boston. 

CAMBRIDGE,  Mass. 
VASSALL  HOUSE,  Brattle  St.     Cool  and  Quiet.     $3  up. 

CHATHAM,  Mass. 

CHATHAM  BARS  INN.  N.  A.  Eldridge,  Prop.  Golf,  Shooting, 
Fishing,  Sailing,  and  Bathing.  ALL  MODERN  COMFORTS.  $5  up. 

HOTEL  MATTAQUASON.  F.  Wilkey,  Prop.  Capacity  150.  $4 
up.  Garage.  Right  on  the  Ocean.  Golf,  Tennis,  etc. 

CHESTER,  Mass. 
RIVERSIDE  INN.     F.  E.  Hopkins.     American  plan:     $2.50  up. 

COHASSET,  Mass. 

GEORGE   A.  COLE.     REAL  ESTATE.     50  Congress  St.,  Boston. 
BENJAMIN  C.  TOWER.     REAL  ESTATE.    35  Congress  St.,  Boston. 

CONCORD,  N.H. 

THE  EAGLE  HOTEL.  O.  J.  Pelren,  Mgr.  A  modern  hostelry 
with  large,  cool,  and  comfortable  rooms,  newly  fitted  with 
private  baths.  ALL  OUTSIDE  ROOMS.  Capacity  300.  Situated 
on  the  main  street,  opposite  the  civic  center.  The  DINING 
ROOM  is  cool  and  commodious.  Here  the  Traveling  Public 
will  enjoy  the  best  of  food  expertly  prepared.  The  service  in 
the  hotel  is  of  the  best.  American  plan.  Reasonable  and  at- 
tractive rates.  MEALS  at  $i  a  specialty.  In  the  rear  and 
connected  with  the  hotel  is  the  Eagle  Garage. 


7QS  DIRECTORY   OF   HOTELS,    GARAGES,   ETC 

CONCORD,  Mass. 

COLONIAL  INN.  F.  Sutler,  Prop.  $2.50  up;  with  bath  $3.50. 
Open  all  the  year.  KNOWN  SINCE  1770. 

GREEN  ARBOR  TEA  ROOM.     Lexington  Road.     Lunch  12  to  2. 

COTUIT,  Mass. 
SANTUIT    HOUSE  and  Cottages.     Capacity  200.     $3.50  to  $6. 

CRAWFORD    NOTCH,  N.H. 
CRAWFORD  HOUSE.     Capacity  300.     $4.50  up.     200  rooms. 

DANBURY,  Conn. 
HOTEL    GREEN.     A.  S.  Taylor,  Mgr.     European  plan:  $i  up. 

DEDHAM,  Mass. 
HAYES   &   WELCH.     REAL  ESTATE.     30  State  St.,  Boston. 

DENNIS,  Mass. 
HOTEL  NOBSCUSSET.     A.  W.  MacDougall,  Mgr.     $2.50  up. 

DIXVILLE  NOTCH,  N.H. 
THE    BALSAMS.     C.  H.  Gould,  Mgr.     Capacity  250.     $5  up. 

DOVER,  Mass. 

WALTER  CHANNING,  Jr.  REAL  INSTATE.  50  Congress  St.,  Boston. 
Gentlemen's  Estates,  Country  Properties,  Desirable  Summer 
Residences,  Farms,  etc.,  for  sale  and  to  rent. 

DUXBURY,  Mass. 

POWDER  POINT  HALL  and  Cottages.  Charles  M.  Reade,  Mgr. 
$3.50  to  $5.  An  Ideal  Family  Resort. 

EAST    PRINCETON,  Mass. 
WHIP-POOR-WILL   INN.     CHICKEN  DINNERS  our  Specialty. 

FABYAN,  N.H. 
FABYAN    HOUSE.     Capacity  300.     $4.50  up. 

FAIRFIELD,  Conn. 
THE  UNQUOWA  HOTEL.     A  COLONIAL  HOUSE  on  the  Post  Road. 

FAIRHAVEN,  Mass. 

TABITHA  INN.     C.  J.  Beuchotte,  Prop.     Capacity  100.     $4  up. 
FAIRHAVEN  GARAGE.     Storage  and  Supplies.     Reliable  work. 

FAIRLEE,  Vt. 
THE  KAULIN.     G.  H.  Kendall,  Prop.     Capacity  100.     $3. 50  to  $5. 


DIRECTORY   OF  HOTELS,   GARAGES,   ETC.  799 

FALL   RIVER,  Mass. 
HOTEL    MELLEN.     Centrally  located.     European  plan. 

FALMOUTH,  Mass. 

THE  SIPPEWISSETT.  Frederick  Wilkey,  Prop.  On  the  ocean. 
Sailing,  Fishing,  Golf,  Tennis.  Rooms  with  and  without  bath. 
$5  up.  Garage.  Ideal  Bathing.  Temp,  of  water  74  degrees. 

TERRACE  GABLES.     W.  L.  Draper,  Prop.     Capacity  200.     $3  up. 

HORACE  S.  CROWELL.  60  State  St.,  Boston.  REAL  ESTATE 
BROKER.  Buzzards  Bay  and  Cape  Cod. 

H.  NELSON  EMMONS  &  CO.     REAL  ESTATE.     Office,  Boston. 

FITZWILLIAM    DEPOT,  N.H. 
LAUREL  LAKE  INN.     Water  Sports.     Garage  and  Livery.     $3  up. 

FRAMINGHAM,  Mass. 

FREDERICK  A.  KING.  41  Concord  St.  Tel.  655.  Farms,  Sum- 
mer Homes,  Country  Real  Estate.  Motor  Service. 

FRANCONIA    NOTCH,  N.H. 
NEW  PROFILE  HOUSE.     C.  H.  Greenleaf,  Pres.     Capacity  500. 

GARDNER,  Mass. 
WINDSOR   HOUSE.     On  the  Mohawk  Trail  route.     $3  up. 

GLOUCESTER,  Mass. 

THE  MOORLAND.  BASS  ROCKS.  E.  D.  Parsons,  Mgr.  Capac- 
ity 300.  $3.50  up. 

HOTEL  THORWALD.     BASS  ROCKS.     L.  Roberts,  Mgr.     $4  up. 

GREAT    BARRINGTON,  Mass. 

THE  BERKSHIRE  INN.     Caleb  Ticknor  &  Son,  Props.     All  modern 

comforts.     Capacity  250.     $5  up. 

EASTLAND   GARAGE.     J.  T.  Harper,   Prop.     Supplies,  Storage. 
WILLIAM  H.  MILLS.     REAL  ESTATE.     7  East  42d  St.,  New  York. 

GREENFIELD,   Mass. 

THE  WELDON  HOTEL.  N.  A.  Campbell,  Mgr.  Concrete  Con- 
struction. OPEN  ALL  THE  YEAR.  Summer  and  Winter  Sports. 

THE  MANSION  HOUSE.     H.   L.  Wood,  Prop.     European  Plan: 
$i-$2  per  day;    American  Plan:    $3-^4  per  day. 
FIREPROOF  GARAGE  connected. 


8co  DIRECTORY  OF  HOTELS,   GARAGES,   ETC. 

GREENWICH,  Conn. 

THE    COSCOB   INN.     J.  L.  Casaux,  Mgr.     Meals  a  la  carte. 
THE  EDGEWOOD.     Alfred  S.  Amer  Co.,  Props.     $5  up. 
ALLEN  BROTHERS'  GARAGE.     Always  open. 

LAURENCE  TIMMONS.  Opposite  Railroad  Station.  Tel.  456. 
Shore  Estates,  City  Estates,  Cottages,  Villas,  Farms,  Acreage, 
etc.,  in  Greenwich  and  vicinity.  HANDSOME  HOMES,  on  both 
shore  and  inland  property,  with  large  or  small  grounds  as  desired, 
for  sale  at  all  prices.  Prompt  and  reliable  information  given. 
Facilities  for  showing  properties  at  any  time.  Ready  to  quote 
with  definiteness  the  best  purchase  price  or  rental  figure. 
Write,  call,  or  telephone. 

GROTON,  Conn. 

THE  GRISWOLD.  H.  D.  Saxton,  Mgr.  At  Eastern  Point.  Lead- 
ing Resort  Hotel.  Over  150  suites  with  bath.  $35  per  week 
and  up. 

GROTON,  Mass. 

GROTON  INN.     L.  A.  Dodge,  Prop.     Always  open.     Historically 

famous,  dating  from  1770.     35  rooms.     Rates  $3  to  $4.     Garage. 

HANOVER,  N.H. 

CHARLES  H.  DUDLEY.  Athletic  goods  of  every  description. 
Clothing  for  the  MOTORIST.  Outfits  for  Golf  and  all  Winter 
Sports.  Superior  Quality  Shaker  Sweaters.  Outfitter  to  Dart- 
mouth College  and  to  more  than  fifty  summer  camps. 

THE   HANOVER   INN.     Open  summer  and  winter.     Garage. 

HARRISON,  Me. 
SUMMIT   SPRING   HOTEL.     J.   B.   Blake,   Mgr.     Capacity   60. 

HARTFORD,  Conn. 
ALLYN   HOUSE.     Cor.  Asylum  and  Trumbull  Sts.     Capacity  300. 

HOTEL  BOND  AND  ANNEX.  H.  S.  Bond,  Mgr.  Capacity  550. 
European  plan:  Hotel  Bond  $2  up;  Bond  Annex  $1.50  up. 

HIGHLAND  COURT  HOTEL.  50  Windsor  Ave.  Advertised  as 
"AN  HOTEL  FOR  HOME  LOVERS"  is  the  largest  Hartford  Hotel. 
It  is  located  overlooking  the  city  and  has  a  unique  arrangement 
of  inclusive  rates. 

KENEY  TOWER  HOTEL.  271  High  St.,  cor  of  Main  St.  Hart- 
ford's new  moderate-priced  Hotel.  European  plan :  $i  and  $i  .50 
single;  $2  and  $2.50  double.  All  outside  rooms. 

THE   AETNA   GARAGE.     1225    Main  St.     Storage   and   Repairs. 
HARVEY  &  LEWIS.    PHOTO  SUPPLIES  and  OPTICAL  GOODS, 


DIRECTORY  OF  HOTELS,    GARAGES,   ETC.  801 

HENNIKER,  N.H. 

THE  HENNIKER  INN.  D.  L.  Young,  Prop.  Open  all  the  year. 
Ideal  stopping  place  for  the  tourist.  Spacious  piazzas.  A 
COLONIAL  INN  THAT  COMPLETELY  SATISFIES.  $2.50  to  $3.50. 

HINGHAM,  Mass. 
GEORGE   A.  COLE.     REAL  ESTATE.     50  Congress  St.,  Boston. 

HOLLISTON,  Mass. 
FREDERICK  A.  KING.     REAL  ESTATE.     (See  Framingham.) 

HOLYOKE,  Mass. 

THE  NONOTUCK.  Gorham  Benedict,  Mgr.  European  plan. 
$1.50  up.  Opened  in  1915. 

HUDSON,  Mass. 

FREDERICK  A.  KING.  (Branch  Office.)  Savings  Bank  Building. 
FARMS  AND  COUNTRY  ESTATES.  (See  Framingham.) 

HYANNIS,  Mass. 

ABERDEEN  HALL.  Mrs.  Frances  P.  Yeager,  Prop.  Delightfully 
situated  on  Vineyard  Sound.  All  summer  attractions.  Garage. 

THE  EAGLESTON  INN  AND  GIFT  SHOP.     J.  V.  Eagleston,  Prop. 

HYANNISPORT,  Mass. 
H.  NELSON   EMMONS   &   CO.    REAL  ESTATE.    Office,  Boston. 

JEFFERSON,  N.H. 

THE  WAUMBECK.  C.  V.  Murphy,  Lessee.  Capacity  500. 
$5  up  per  day.  $28  up  per  week.  Golf,  Tennis,  Automobiling. 

KENNEBUNKPORT,  Me. 

BREAKWATER  COURT.     R.  W.  Norton,  Prop,     too  rooms.  $5  up. 
OLD  FORT  INN.     Nevin  and  Duffield,  Props.     125  rooms.     $4  up. 

LAKEVILLE,  Conn. 

FARNAM  TAVERN.  W.  B.  Perry,  Jr.,  Landlord.  A  Colonial 
Tavern,  more  like  a  home  than  a  hotel.  ALWAYS  OPEN,  offer- 
ing hospitality  to  travelers  desiring  conveniences,  cleanliness, 
and  comfort.  Cozy  headquarters  for  winter  sports.  $4  a 
day.  Special  terms  for  winter  parties. 

LEE,  Mass. 

THE  GREENOCK  INN.  Located  on  Franklin  St.,  just  off  Main. 
Has  spacious  grounds  surrounded  by  trees.  Wide  verandas. 
Two  minutes'  walk  from  post  office  and  trolley.  100  sleeping 
rooms,  30  private  baths.  Write  for  booklet  and  rates. 

THE  PARK   GARAGE.     R.  C.  Benjamin,  Mgr.     Open  all  (he  year. 


802  DIRECTORY  OF  HOTELS,   GARAGES,   ETC. 

LENOX,  Mass. 

HOTEL   ASPINWALL.     Capacity  500.     Grill,  Garage.     $5  up. 
CURTIS   HOTEL.     W.  D.  Curtis,  Prop.     Open  May  to  November. 

LYME,  Conn. 
OLD   LYME   INN.     H.  M.  Caulkins,  Prop.     $2.50  per  day  and  up. 

MAGNOLIA,  Mass. 
THE    OCEANSIDE  and  Cottages.     Capacity  800.     $5  up. 

MANCHESTER,  Vt. 
THE   EQUINOX.     A.  E.  Martin,  Mgr.     Capacity  350.     $5  up. 

MAPLEWOOD,  N.H. 

MAPLEWOOD  HOTEL,  Inn  and  Cottages.     Capacity  400.     $5  up. 
Dairy  products  from  Maplewood  Farm.     Golf  Links. 

MARBLEHEAD,  Mass. 

HOTEL   ROCK-MERE.     G.  H.  Brackett,  Mgr.     Faces  the  Yacht- 
ing.    Capacity  300.     $5  per  day  up. 

GARDNER    R.    HATHAWAY.     REAL  ESTATE.     Specialist   in   the 
Sale  or  Rental  of  Seashore  Properties.     Furnished  Cottages. 

MARION,  Mass. 
THE    SIPPICAN.     Harry  T.  Miller,  Mgr.     Capacity  150. 

HORACE   S.   CROWELL.     60  State   St.,  Boston.     REAL   ESTATE 
BROKER.     Buzzards  Bay  and  Cape  Cod. 

H.  NELSON    EMMONS    &    CO.     REAL  ESTATE.     Office,  Boston. 

MARLBORO,  Mass. 

YE  OLDE  GATES  INN.     Geo.  E.  Bicknell,  Prop.     Built  in  1667. 
FREDERICK  A.  KING.      REAL  ESTATE.     (See  Framingham.) 

MEDFIELD,  Mass. 
WALTER  CHANNING,  Jr.     REAL  ESTATE.     (See  Dover,  Mass.) 

MERIDEN,    N.H. 

THE    DEXTER    RICHARDS    HALL.      J.    O.    Cook,    Mgr.     $2.50 
to  $3. 

MILLIS,  Mass. 

WALTER   CHANNING,  Jr.     REAL  ESTATE.     (See  Dover,  Mass.) 

MT.  KISCO,  N.Y. 
WILLIAM  H.  MILLS.     REAL  ESTATE.     7  East  42d  St.,  New  York. 


DIRECTORY   OF   HOTELS,   GARAGES,   ETC.  803 


NAPLES,  Me. 

BAY  OF  NAPLES  HOTEL.  John  C.  Hill,  Mgr.  Capacity  200. 
$4  up.  Special  service  to  motorists  at  all  hours. 

NARRAGANSETT    PIER,  R.I. 

THE  MATHEWSON.  S.  W.  Mathevvson.  Capacity  500.  $4  up. 
Grill,  Golf,  Tennis,  Boating.  Garage. 

THE  IMPERIAL.     W.  A.  Nye,  Mgr.     Capacity  300.     $5  up. 

NEEDHAM,  Mass. 
WALTER   CHANNING,  Jr.     REAL  ESTATE.     (See  Dover,  Mass.) 

NEWBURYPORT,  Mass. 
THE    WOLFE   TAVERN.     D.  H.  Fowle  &  Son.     Props. 

NEWCASTLE,  N.H. 

HOTEL  WENTWORTH.  H.  W.  Priest,  Pres.  &  Mgr.  Capacity 
500.  $5  up.  Golf,  Tennis,  Boating,  Hot  and  Cold  Sea-Water 
Baths. 

NEW    HARTFORD,  Conn. 

NEW  HARTFORD  HOTEL.  Harry  Donohue,  Prop.  On  the  main 
state  road  18  miles  from  Hartford.  Specialty  Sunday  Chicken 
Dinners,  ysc. 

NEW   HAVEN,  Conn. 
HOTEL  TAFT.     Merry  &  Boomer,  Mgrs.     350  rooms.     $2  up. 

NEW  ENGLAND  ENGINEERING  CO.  50  Crown  St.  "ExiDE" 
Batteries.  Specialists  in  reliable  STORAGE  BATTERY  and  START- 
ING and  LIGHTING  Service. 

NEW    LONDON,  Conn. 

THE  MOHICAN  HOTEL.  F.  B.  Walker,  Mgr.  Midway  between 
New  York  and  Boston.  The  leading  Automobile  Hotel  of 
Connecticut.  Eleven  stories  in  height.  Roof  Garden  and 
Ballroom.  Fireproof  Construction.  A  thoroughly  metropolitan 
hotel  in  every  detail  of  equipment,  service,  and  cuisine.  A 
convenient  and  centrally  located  stopping  place  for  the  auto- 
mobilist.  400  rooms  with  private  baths.  European  plan. 
Rates  $1.50  to  $3.50  single,  $3  to  $12.50  double.  Garage  ac- 
commodations. OPEN  ALL  THE  YEAR. 

NEW  MONTE  CRISTO  GARAGE.     J.P.Sullivan.     Washington  St. 

NEWPORT,  R.I. 
NEW    CLIFFS    HOTEL.     J.  V.  Jordan,  Mgr.     Capacity  120.     $4. 


804  DIRECTORY  OF  HOTELS,  GARAGES,   ETC. 

NORFOLK,  Conn. 

THE  WANGUM  HOUSE.  Verner  F.  Gidman,  Prop.  American 
plan:  $2  and  $2.50  per  day.  Centrally  located,  two  minutes' 
walk  from  the  railroad  station  and  post  office.  House  is  of 
brick,  four  floors,  of  steel  construction  and  steam  heated.  An 
Ideal  Stopping  Place  for  the  tourist. 

NORTHAMPTON,  Mass. 
PLYMOUTH  INN.     W.  A.  Senna,  Mgr.     Capacity  125.     $3-85. 

"YE   ROSE   TREE   INN."     A.  de  Naucaze,  Prop. 
"The  Daintiest  Dinner  in  New  England." 

NORTHBORO,  Mass. 
FREDERICK   A.   KING.     REAL  ESTATE.     (See  Framingham.) 

NORTH    CONWAY,  N.H. 
THE   KEARSAGE.     J.  L.  Gibson,  Mgr.     Capacity  250.     $4  up. 

NORTHFIELD,  Mass. 

THE  NORTHFIELD,  East  Northfield,  Mass.,  Ambert  G.  Moody, 
Mgr.  OPEN  ALL  THE  YEAR.  Near  The  Northfield  Schools 
and  Conferences.  Tennis,  Golf,  Driving,  and  Motoring. 
Garage  and  Livery.  Comfortable  in  winter.  Skating,  Tobog- 
ganing, Sleighing,  and  Snowshoeing.  $12  to  $38  per  week. 

THE  BOOKSTORE.     Souvenirs,  Post  Cards  and  Photographs. 

NORWALK,  Conn. 
ROYAL   JAMES   INN.     Tom   Gay,  Prop.     European  plan. 

OLD    ORCHARD    BEACH,  Me. 
HOTEL   VESPER.     C.  H.  Campbell,  Mgr.     Capacity  150.     $3  up. 

OSTERVILLE— WIANNO,  Mass. 

EAST   BAY   LODGE.     N.  H.  Bearse,  Prop.     Boating  and  Bathing. 
H.    NELSON   EMMONS   &    CO.     REAL  ESTATE.     Office,  Boston. 

PETERSHAM,  Mass. 
THE  NICHEWAUG.     Elevation  1150  ft.  Jsne  10  to  Sept.  25. 

PITTSFIELD,  Mass. 

THE  MAPLEWOOD.  A.  W.  Plumb,  Mgr.  Capacity  300.  $4  up. 
Golf,  Tennis  at  Country  Club.  Garage.  Send  for  booklet. 

THE    WENDELL.     Capacity  250.     European  plan:   81.50  up. 


DIRECTORY  OF  HOTELS,   GARAGES,  ETC.  805 

PLYMOUTH,  Mass. 

HOTEL   PILGRIM.     P.  F.  Brine,  Mgr.     Capacity  150. 
SAMOSET  HOUSE.     Motor  Inn.     $4  up. 

POLAND    SPRING,  Me. 

POLAND   SPRING  HOUSE.     Hiram  Ricker  &  Sons,  Props. 
MANSION   HOUSE.     Open  all  the  year.     Capacity  150.     $4  up. 

PORTLAND,  Me. 

CONGRESS    SQUARE    HOTEL.      Portland's    New  and  Popular 
Hotel.     Dining  room  on  seventh  floor. 

NEW  CHASE  HOUSE.     434  Congress  St.     European  plan :   $i  up. 

PORTSMOUTH,  N.H. 
ROCKINGHAM  HOTEL.     Geo.  Q.  Pattee,  Prop.     Cap.  200.  $4  up. 

PROFILE    HOUSE,  N.H. 

PROFILE  HOUSE  and  Cottages.     C.  H.  Greenleaf,  Pres.     Capac- 
ity 500.     $6  up;   bath  $7.     Golf,  Tennis.     Garage. 

PROVIDENCE,  R.I. 

THE   CROWN    HOTEL.     Capacity  400.     European  plan. 
NARRAGANSETT    HOTEL.     European  plan:   $1.50  up. 

ROCKLAND,  Me. 
THE   SAM-0-SET.     Ricker  Hotel  Company.     F.  C.  Moore,  Mgr. 

Capacity  200.     $5  up.     Golf,  Tennis,  Boating,  Bathing,  Garage. 
Fifteenth  Season,  June  17  to  Sept.  9,  1916. 

RUTLAND,  Vt. 

HOTEL   BERWICK.     A.  J.  Boynton,  Mgr.     Capacity  200.     $3.50 
up.     New  Fireproof  Garage.     Capacity  200  Cars. 

RYE,    N.Y. 
WILLIAM  H.  MILLS.     REAL  ESTATE.     7  East  42d  St.,  New  York. 

SHELBURNE    FALLS,  Mass. 

"THE    HOUSE    OF    MAPLES."     Alice  Brown,  Prop. 

On  the  road  to  the  Mohawk  Trail. 
Pure  MAPLE  SUGAR  DAINTIES. 
Maple  Syrup,  Maple  Sugar  Cream, 
and  Maple  Sugar  Hearts. 

Afternoon  Tea. 


806  DIRECTORY  OF   HOTELS,   GARAGES,   ETC. 

SHERBORN,  Mass. 
WALTER   CHANNING,  Jr.     REAL  ESTATE.     (See  Dover,  Mass.) 

SOUTHBORO,    Mass. 

SOUTHBORO    ARMS   is   noted   for  its  excellence.      Rooms  have 
Baths.     Piazza  Cafe. 

FREDERICK  A.  KING.      REAL  ESTATE.     (See  Framingham.) 
SOUTH    NATICK,  Mass. 


OLD    NATICK   INN.     Miss  Harris,  Mgr.     Tel.  Natick  8610. 

Large  and  Comfortable  Rooms.     Suites  with  Bath. 

Excellent  Table.     Both  Dining  Room  and  Tea  Room. 

A  multitude  of  attractions.     Picturesque  walks  and  drives. 

Canoeing.     Reading  Room.     Open  Fires.     Wide  Piazzas. 

Convenient  center  for  motorists.  A  fifty  minute  run  from 
Boston  by  auto  over  Newton  Boulevard  and  Commonwealth 
Ave.  Garage. 

The  INN  may  also  be  reached  by  carriage  from  Wellesley  or 
by  trolley  from  Natick. 


SPRINGFIELD,  Mass. 
HOTEL   KIMBALL.     L.  L.  Pierce,  Mgr.     Capacity  500.     $1.50  up. 

HOTEL   WORTHY.     William   W.    Benson,    Mgr.     Capacity   500. 
$1.50  up.    Famous  Cuisine.     Faultless  Service. 


STAMFORD,  Conn. 

THE    DAVENPORT.     Capacity  200.     European  plan:   $1.50  up. 
HOTEL  MANOR.     E.  D.  De  Puy,  Mgr.     Capacity  150.     $3.50  up 
WILLIAM   H.  MILLS.     REAL  ESTATE.     7  East  42d  St.,  New  York, 


DIRECTORY  OF  HOTELS,   GARAGES,   ETC. 


807 


STOCKBRIDGE,  Mass. 
RED    LION   INN.     A.  T.  Treadway,  Mgr.     Capacity  200.     $4  up. 

DANIEL  B.  FENN   &   BROTHER.     BERKSHIRE  REAL  ESTATE. 

We  have  Furnished  Cottages  to  Rent,  Estates  and  Farms  to 
Sell,  in  and  about  Stockbridge. 

Parties  interested  will  find  it  to  their  advantage  to  apply  to 
THE  LOCAL  AGENTS.  If  you  wish  to  rent  a  Summer  House  or 
purchase  a  Country  Estate,  WRITE  or  CALL  on  us. 

SUDBURY,  Mass. 


THE    OLD    TAP-HOOM 


THE   PARLOR   OF    THE   INN 


LONGFELLOW'S  WAYSIDE  INN.     Edward  R.  Lemon,  Landlord. 

A  genuine  old  American  Tavern  made  world-famous  by 
the  poet  Longfellow.  In  historical  and  artistic  interest 
theie  is  nothing  like  it  this  side  of  England,  and  few  there 
as  good. 

The  Inn  is  filled  with  a  rare  and  genuine  collection  of  old 
furniture  and  old  prints.  The  rooms  occupied  by  Longfellow 
and  Lafayette  are  preserved  as  nearly  as  possible  in  the  con- 
dition they  knew  them. 

Good  Chicken  Dinners.  Afternoon  Tea.  A  few  rooms  by 
the  day.  Old  Ballroom  for  House  Parties. 

The  Inn  is  on  the  Old  Post  Road,  midway  between  Boston 
and  Worcester,  twenty-two  miles  from  each.  Follow  the  red 
markers  on  telegraph  poles  and  fence  posts.  It  stands  in  idyllic 
surroundings,  a  delightful  center  for  walks  and  motor,  trips. 

From  Boston,  take  Commonwealth  Ave.  to  Weston  and 
Worcester  State  Road  to  the  Inn. 


SUNAPEE    LAKE,  N.H. 

THE    GRANLIDEN.     W.  W.  Brown,  Prop.     Capacity  300.     $5  up. 
SOO-NIPI-PARK     LODGE.      L.    M.    Waite,    Mgr.     150 


American  plan:     $4  up. 
Tennis,  Boating,  Fishing. 


rooms. 

Private  baths,  elevator,  etc.     Golf, 
Garage. 


808  DIRECTORY  OF  HOTELS,   GARAGES,  ETC. 


SWAMPSCOTT,  Mass. 


NEW  OCEAN  HOUSE.     Puritan  Road,  Whale's  Beach. 

Direct  outlook  upon  the  sea.  SEVEN-STORY  STEEL  ANNEX 
built  in  1916;  private  bath  with  every  room,  telephone,  steam 
heat.  Out-of-door  sports  include  dancing,  bathing,  clock 
golf,  croquet.  Golf  links  near.  Handsome  parade  entire 
length  of  new  seawall.  Excellent  Garage.  Summer  rates 
(June  15  to  Sept.  10),  American  plan:  $5  up.  Winter  rates 
(Sept.  10  to  June  15 — ANNEX  only — inclusive  plan  with  no 
tips),  $7  up.  For  particulars  write  E.  R.  Grabow  Company, 
Owners  and  Managers,  131  State  St.,  Boston,  Mass.  • 

WAREHAM,  Mass. 

HORACE  S.   CROWELL.    60  State  St.,   Boston.     REAL  ESTATE 
BROKER.     Buzzards  Bay  and  Cape  Cod. 

WATCH   HILL,  R.I. 
NEW   WATCH   HILL   HOUSE.     A.  E.  Dick,  Prop.     $5  up. 

WATERBURY,  Conn. 

THE   ELTON.     Almon  C.  Judd,  Prop.     Open  all  the  year.     Fire- 
proof.    Modern  Equipment.     European  plan:   $1.50  up. 

WAYLAND,  Mass. 
THE   WAYLAND   INN.     1775.     Meals  for  automobilists. 

POOLE   &   BIGELOW.     70  Kilby  St.,  Boston.     Country  proper 
ties  of  every  description.     Local  representative,  J.  S.  Seabury. 

WESTBORO,  Mass. 
FREDERICK  A.  KING.     REAL  ESTATE.     (See  Framingham  ) 

WESTON,  Mass. 

POOLE   &   BIGELOW.     70  Kilby  St.,  Boston.     Country  proper- 
ties of  every  description.     (See  Wayland.) 


DIRECTORY  OF  HOTELS,   GARAGES,  ETC.  8o(j 

WELLFLEET,  Mass. 
CHEQUESSET   INN.     F.  T.  Organ,  Mgr.     Cool  and  Comfortable. 

$3  UP- 
WEST  BARNSTABLE,  Mass. 

"HARTSEASE   INN."     Lobster,  Chicken,  and  Steak  Dinners. 

WESTERLY,  R.I. 
THE    RHODE   ISLAND.     F.  L.   Furness,  Mgr.     European  plan. 

WHITE    PLAINS,  N.Y. 

GEDNEY  FARM  HOTEL.  Open  the  year  round.  Splendidly 
equipped.  Capacity  300.  $4  up.  Large  concrete  garage. 

WILLIAMSTOWN,  Mass. 
THE  GREYLOCK  HOTEL.     Capacity  150.     $4  up.    JVTay  to  Nov. 

THE  WILLIAMS  INN.  L.  G.  Treadway,  Mgr.  A  COMFORTABLE 
HOMELIKE  INN  catering  to  a  refined  class  of  particular  people. 
Admirably  situated  in  the  center  of  a  beautiful  College  town, 
facing  Mission  Park  with  its  famous  Haystack  Monument, 
which  marks  the  birthplace  of  American  Foreign  Missions. 
The  Inn  is  OPEN  ALL  THE  YEAR,  offering  tennis,  golf,  etc.,  in 
summer  and  all  the  outdoor  sports  in  winter. 

FORGET-ME-NOT-SHOP  and  Tea  Room.  184  Main  St.  Lunch 
from  ii  A.M.  to  3  P.M.  $.75.  A  la  carte  from  9  A.M.  to  6  P.M. 

WINCHENDON,  Mass.    , 

TOY  TOWN  TAVERN.  Open  all  the  year.  $3.50  and  up.  Sum- 
mer and  winter  sports.  Afternoon  Tea  in  the  Playhouse. 

WOODSTOCK,  Vt. 
WOODSTOCK   INN.     A.  B.  Wilder,  Mgr.     Capacity  90.     $5  up. 

WORCESTER,  Mass. 

THE   BANCROFT.     Chas.  S.  Averill,  Pres.  and  Managing  Director. 

Worcester's  NEW  MILLION-DOLLAR  FIREPROOF  HOTEL. 

Opposite  the  park.  300  rooms.  Capacity  500.  Tariff  $1.50 
per  day  and  upward.  Rooms  with  private  bath  $2.50  per  day 
and  upward. 

YORK   BEACH,  Me. 
OCEAN   HOUSE.     W.  J.  Simpson,  Prop.     Capacity  250.     $3. 50  up. 

YORK    CLIFFS,  Me. 
PASSACONAWAY   INN.     W.  H.  Torrey,  Mgr.     Capacity  150. 


DIRECTORY  OF  NEW  ENGLAND  SCHOOLS 

ABBOTT  SCHOOL  for  Boys,  Farmington,  Me.  George  D.  Church, 
head  master.  A  well  equipped  small  school  for  forty  boys.  Col- 
lege preparatory  and  business  courses.  $800.  Summer  tutoring 
•school. 

COBURN  CLASSICAL  INSTITUTE,  Waterville,  Me.  Drew  T. 
Harthorn,  head  master.  A  coeducational  school  preparing  for 
college.  Also  general  courses.  Endowed. 

KENT'S  HILL  SEMINARY,  Kent's  Hill,  Me.  J.  O.  Newton,  Presi- 
dent. A  coeducational  school  also  known  as  Maine  Wesleyan 
Seminary.  On  a  large  farm.  Special  courses:  Music,  Agri- 
culture, Business. 

ST.  MARY'S  SCHOOL  for  Girls,  Concord,  N.H.,  under  the  direction 
of  Miss  Isabel  M.  Parks,  Principal.  College  preparatory  and 
general  courses.  Music,  Art,  Domestic  Science.  Gymnasium 
and  outdoor  recreations.  Three  buildings. 

GODDARD  SEMINARY,  Barre,  Vt.,  Orlando  K.  Hollister,  Litt.D., 
Principal,  is  located  in  the  Green  Mountains.  College  entrance 
certificate.  Music,  Domestic  Science,  Commercial  Course. 
State  Teacher's  Training  Course.  New  Equipment.  Large 
Endowment.  Coeducational. 

FESSENDEN  SCHOOL,  West  Newton,  Mass.  For  young  boys. 
Home  atmosphere.  Frederick  J.  Fessenden,  Head  Master. 

DANA  HALL,  Wellesley,  Mass.,  Miss  Helen  Temple  Cooke,  Prin- 
cipal, Miss  Adele  Lathrop,  Associate  Principal,  offers  the  ad- 
vantages of  both  country  and  city  life.  College  Preparatory 
and  General  Courses.  Tenacre,  for  Younger  Girls.  Pine 
Manor,  the  Post-graduate  Department. 

WALNUT    HILL    SCHOOL  for  Girls,  Natick,  Mass. 

Miss  Charlotte  H.  Conant  and  Miss  Florence  Bigelow,  Princi- 
pals. Thorough  College  Preparation.  Graduates  yearly  enter 
the  leading  colleges.  Four  buildings  on  a  forty-acre  campus. 

THE  MISSES  ALLEN  SCHOOL,  West  Newton,  Mass.,  Miss  Lucy 
Ellis  Allen,  Principal,  offers  a  genuine  home  life  with  individual 
and  special  attention  to  a  limited  number  of  girls.  In  addition 
to  the  college  preparatory  course  advance  work  is  given  in  art, 
history,  literature,  and  music.  Fine  old  Colonial  house. 

RESTHAVEN,  Mendon,  Mass.  Individual  attention.  Six  teach- 
ers, specialists,  for  fifteen  girls,  varying  ages.  Music,  college 
preparation.  Large  Farm.  Outdoor  life.  An  hour  from 
Boston.  Miss  Seabury,  Mendon,  Mass. 

(Sio) 


DIRECTORY  OF  NEW  ENGLAND  SCHOOLS 


811 


BRADFORD  ACADEMY,  Bradford,  Mass.  Miss  Laura  A.  Knott, 
Principal.  The  oldest  institution  in  New  England  for  the 
higher  education  of  women.  Four-year  College  Preparatory 
Course.  Five-year  General  Course.  Two-year  Course  for 
high  school  graduates.  Art,  Music,  Domestic  Science.  Gym- 
nasium, Athletic  Field,  Tennis  Courts.  Happy  and  wholesome 
life.  Faculty  of  twenty. 

ROGERS  HALL  SCHOOL  for  Girls,  Lowell,  Mass.  Faces  Rogers 
Fort  Hill  Park.  38  minutes  from  Boston.  Thorough  prepara- 
tion for  all  colleges.  Advanced  Course  for  graduates  of  High 
Schools.  Large  grounds  for  outdoor  sports.  Experienced 
instructors  in  charge  of  all  athletics.  New  Gymnasium  and 
Swimming  Pool.  For  catalog  address  Miss  Olive  Sewall  Par- 
sons, Principal. 

THE  MARY  A.  BURNHAM  SCHOOL  for  Girls. 


Northampton,  Mass.     Established  by  Miss  Burnham  in  1877. 
Situated  on  Elm  St.,  opposite  the  Smith  College  Campus. 
College  Preparatory,  Graduating  and  Special  Courses. 
Miss  Helen  E.  Thompson,  Head  Mistress. 

BERKSHIRE  SCHOOL,  Sheffield,  Mass. 


Seaver  B.  Buck,  Head  Master. 

The  School  occupies  350  acres  on   the   eastern  slope  of  Mt. 

Everett,  overlooking  the  Housatonic  Valley. 

The  six-year  course  of  study  fits  boys  for  college  or  any  of  the 

scientific  schools.     Careful  supervision  of  study  hour.     Special 

instruction  in  Music,  Drawing,  and  Dancing. 


8l2 


DIRECTORY    OF    NEW    ENGLAND    SCHOOLS 


SEA  PINES  SCHOOL  OF  PERSONALITY  for  Girls. 

•  The  Cape  climate  is  exceptionally  favorable  for  outdoor  life. 
One  hundred  acres;  pine  groves;  2000  feet  of  seashore.  Horse- 
back riding.  Gymnastics,  Music,  Handiwork,  Household  Arts. 
French,  German,  and  Spanish  by  native  teachers.  College  Pre- 
paratory, Cultural,  Domestic  Science,  Secretarial,  Advanced 
course  of  two  years — College  studies  including  subjects  in  Sys- 
tematic Personality.  Personal  attention  and  care. 


Write    for    booklet    and    further    information.     Rev.  Thomas 
Bickford,  A.M.,  Miss  Faith  Bickford,  Principals,  P.O.  Box  2. 
Brewster,  Cape  Cod,  Massachusetts. 
HILLSIDE  SCHOOL  for  Girls,  Norwalk,  Conn. 


Founded  by  Elizabeth  B.  Mead,  1833.  From  primary  to  col- 
lege. General  and  special  courses.  Separate  school  house. 
Lodge  for  younger  girls.  New  gymnasium.  Small  classes. 
Outdoor  sports.  Margaret  R.  Brendlinger,  A.B.,  Vida  Hunt 
Francis,  B.L.,  Principals. 

RUMSEY  HALL,  Cornwall,  Conn.  A  school  for  young  boys  in  the 
beautiful  Litchfield  Hills.  Careful  preparation  to  enter  sec- 
ondary schools  without  conditions.  Particular  attention  paid 
to  the  formation  of  manly  character  and  good  habits.  Louis  H. 
Schutte,  B.A.,  M.A.,  Headmaster. 

MISS  BANGS  AND  MISS  WHITON'S  SCHOOL  for  Girls. 
Riverdale  Ave.,  near  252d  St.,  New  York  City. 
The  only  Country  School  for  Girls  in  New  York  City.     Thirty- 
five  acres  overlooking  the  Hudson  river.     Large  enough  to  be  a 
Real  School.     Small  enough  to  be  a  Real  Home.     Unexcelled 
Music  Department.     Students  admitted  to  College  upon  Cer- 
tificate. 


DIRECTORY  OF  SUMMER  CAMPS  IN  NEW 
ENGLAND  FOR  BOYS  AND  GIRLS 

CAMP  ABENA  for  Girls,  Belgrade,  Me.  Tenth  Season.  All  land 
and  water  sports.  Horseback-riding  and  archery.  Miss  Hor- 
tense  Hersom,  Sidwells'  Friends  School,  Washington,  D.C. 

KINEO  CAMPS  for  Boys,  Long  Lake,  Harrison,  Me.  Irving  G. 
McColl,  Hotel  McAlpin,  New  York  City,  Director.  The  Camp 
Council,  all  mature  men,  one  to  each  group  of  three  boys. 
Horseback-riding  under  West  Point  Army  Officers.  All  Water 
Sports,  many  trips,  Kineo  Scouts,  Honor  System.  For  boys 
under  sixteen.  Classified  according  to  age  and  development  in 
three  separate  camps — Juniors,  Middlers,  and  Seniors. 

KINEOWATHA  CAMPS  for  Girls,  Wilton,  Me.  Irving  G.  McColl 
and  Elizabeth  Bass,  Directors.  Three  camps  for  girls  from 
eight  to  twenty.  Comfortable  electric  lighted  bungalows  with 
fireplaces  and  open  sleeping  quarters;  complete  modern  plumb- 
ing. Horseback-riding  under  West  Point  Army  Officers.  Boat- 
ing, Canoeing,  Arts  and  Crafts,  many  trips. 

KINGSWOOD  CAMP,  Bridgton,  Me.  For  young  boys  only.  All 
sports.  Home  atmosphere.  Ralph  I.  Underbill,  Director,  White 
Plains,  N.Y. 

CAMP  MERRYWEATHER  for  Boys,  North  Belgrade,  Me.  Lim- 
ited number  of  boys.  Henry  Richards,  Gardiner,  Me. 

OHUIVO,  a  Camp  for  Girls, 
Oxford,  Me.  Directors:  Miss 
M.  L.  Hanaburgh,  511  E.  6gth 
St.,  N.Y.  City,  and  Miss  Mary 
North,  147  Park  St.,  Montclair, 
N.J.  Dry,  airy  location  on 
Thompson's  Lake.  Pine  wtoods, 
crafts,  sports,  swimming.  Coun- 
cilor for  every  four  girls. 
SEBAGO-WOHELO  is  a  camp  for  girls  on  beautiful  Lake  Sebago, 
Maine,  conducted  by  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Luther  H.  Gulick,  Founders 
and  Promoters  of  Camp 
Fire  Girls.  A  summer 
in  this  camp  is  not  merely 
a  summer  of  outdoor  play, 
but  is  an  educative  experi- 
ence leading  one  to  higher 
and  more  wholesome  liv- 
ing. It  is  an  outdoor  life 
where  bodily  control  is  ac- 
quired through  play.  It 
is  an  art  school  where 


DIRECTORY    OF    SUMMER    CAMPS 


hand  crafts  are  taught.  It  is  a  social  unit  where  love  and  ap- 
preciation reign.  Prospective  patrons  are  invited  to  visit  the 
camp  by  appointment.  Address  Mrs.  L.  H.  Gulick,  South 
Casco,  Me. 

CAMP  WAWENOCK,  Raymond  Cape,  Sebago  Lake,  Me.  For 
Boys.  Nature  craft,  Woodcraft,  Scouting,  Canoeing,  Swim- 
ming, Boating,  etc.  Mile  of  shore  front.  Tuition  $150.  Ad- 
dress Dr.  W.  C.  Kendall,  3413  i3th  St.,  N.W.,  Washington,  D.C. 

CAMP    WINNECOOK,  Lake  Winnecook,  Unity,  Me.     Est.   1903. 

Athletic  Fields  for  all 
sports.  Canoeing,  sailing, 
motor-cruising,  Indian 
tribes,  archery,  woodcraft, 
auto  trips,  hikes.  Photog- 
raphy, metal,  leather  and 
bead  projects.  Tents  and 
bungalows  in  pines.  Prod- 
uce from  our  own  farm. 
Excellent  food — -plenty  of 
it.  Booklet.  Herbert  L. 
Rand,  25  Shore  Road, Salem, 
Mass. 

CAMP  ALGONQUIN,  on  Asquam  Lake,  N.H.,  has  for  thirty  years 
been  maintained  by  Edwin  DeMeritte,  DeMeritte  School, 
Boston,  Mass.  A  thousand  boys  have  known  its  delights.  It 
occupies  an  eighteen-acre  peninsula.  All  water  sports.  Nature 
study.  Boy  Scouts.  Life-saving  Corps.  First  Aid. 

CAMP  FESSENDEN,  near  the  head  of  Lake  Ossipee,  P.O.  West 
Ossipee,  N.H.,  is  a  small  camp  maintained  by  Walter  L.  Nourse 
of  the  Fessenden  School,  West  Newton,  Mass,  with  two  asso- 
ciates, all  college  men. 

MISHE-MOKWA,  a  Summer  Camp  for  Boys,  occupies  the  whole  of 

Redhead  Island  in  Lake  Winnepc- 
saukee,  P.O.  West  Alton,  N.  H. 
L.  Theodore  Wallis,  A.B.,  Browne 
and  Nichols  School,  Cambridge, 
Mass..  the  director,  is  a  specialist  in 
the  physical  development  of  boys. 
The  camp  equipment  includes  the 
fast  speed  boat,  Grey  Wolf.  Aqua- 
planing is  one  of  the  features.  Ten- 
nis, photography,  exploring,  gym- 
nastic stunts,  fishing,  making  boats, 
building  shacks,  mountain-climbing, 
swimming,  and  all  the  usual  camp 
sports  are  amply  provided  for. 

CAMP  PASQUANEY  for  Boys,  on  Newfound  Lake,  Bridgewater, 
N.H.,  in  its  twenty-second  season,  occupies  a  dry,  carefully  se- 
lected location  overlooking  the  lake.  Edward  S.  Wilson. 


DIRECTORY    OF   SUMMER   CAMPS 


CAMP  HANOUM  for  Girls,  Thetford,  Vt.,  on  Thetford  Hill,  was 
established  in  1908  on  the  old  Farnsworth  homestead  by  Pro- 
fessor and  Mrs.  Charles 
H.  Farnsworth,  Teachers 
College,  Columbia  Uni- 
versity, N.Y.  City.  The 
camp  is  divided  into  two 
groups  less  than  a  mile 
apart, — The  Hill  Camp  for 
younger  girls,  The  Lake 
Camp  for  older  girls. 
Swimming  and  canoeing 
are  on  a  beautiful  private 
lake.  Tramping  and 
horseback  trips  to  the 
White  and  Green  Moun- 
tains give  opportunities 
for  learning  campcraft.  Handicrafts  under  special  councilors 
encourage  original  designing  and  the  development  of  individual 
capabilities.  Social  dancing,  folk  dancing,  and  interpretive 
dancing. 

CAMP  COTUIT,  East  Sandwich,  Cape  Cod,  Mass.  Directors:  The 
Misses  Emma,  Emilie,  and  Helene  I.  Schumacher,  and  Miss 
Mary  B.  Nethercut.  A  wooded  roadway  with  an  occasional 
glimpse  of  the  sea  brings  you  to  Lawrence  Lake,  on  the  shores 
of  which  stands  the  camp.  The  equipment  consists  of  a  main 
building  with  office,  indoor  recreation  rooms,  infirmary,  and 
tents.  The  swimming  is  to  be  in  the  charge  of  Mr.  John  Mitch- 
ell, instructor  at  Pratt  Institute.  Campers  who  ride  horseback 
will  be  accompanied  by  the  riding  master  and  the  chaperone. 
Girls  of  all  ages  taken.  Camp  season  $175.  Address  all  com- 
munications to  Miss  H.  I.  Schumacher,  East_Sandwich,  Mass. 

CHINQUEKA  CAMP  for  Girls,  Bantam  Lake. 


Among  the  Litchfield  Hills,  Conn.     Altitude  1000  ft. 

David  Layton,  M.S.,  Director,  669  Dawson  St.,  New  York  City. 


PUBLISHERS'    ANNOUNCEMENTS 

D.  APPLETON  &  COMPANY. 

29-35  West  32d  St.,  New  York. 

OUT-OF-DOORS,  by  Emerson  Hough.     $1.25  net. 

MARY  'GUSTA,  by  Joseph  C.  Lincoln.  A  cleverly  told 
Cape  Cod  story.  $1.35  net. 

THE    CENTURY    COMPANY. 

353  Fourth  Ave.,  New  York. 

THE  LURE  OF  THE  ANTIQUE,  by  Walter  A.  Dyer.  A 
guide  for  those  who  buy  old  furniture.  $2.40  net. 

THE  QUEST  OF  THE  COLONIAL,  by  Robert  and  Eliza- 
beth Shackleton.  An  appropriate  gift  book.  $2.40  net. 

DODD,  MEAD  AND  COMPANY. 

Fourth  Ave.  &  3oth  St.,  New  York. 

WE  DISCOVER  NEW  ENGLAND,  by  Louise  Closser 
Hale,  author  of  "The  Motor  Car  Divorce,"  etc.  With  full- page 
illustrations  from  drawings  by  Walter  Hale. 

Mrs.  Hale  describes  her  delightful  motor  tour  with  her  hus- 
band through  the  mountain  and  shore  land  of  New  England. 
The  charm  of  the  sleepy  old  Connecticut  towns,  and  the  beauties 
of  the  North  Shore,  the  White  Mountains,  the  Green  Mountains, 
and  the  Berkshires  are  some  of  the  interesting  features  touched 
upon.  With  hotels,  routes,  and  a  map.  Boxed,  $2.00  net. 

DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE    &    CO. 

Garden  City,  New  York. 

THE  POCKET  NATURE  LIBRARY.  Hundreds  of  inter- 
esting facts  about  trees,  butterflies,  birds,  and  flowers,  given  by 
leading  authorities,  and  illustrated  in  natural  colors.  Pocket 
size,  bound  in  limp  leather.  Over  700  color  plates. 

THE  LIGHTNING  CONDUCTOR  DISCOVERS  AMER- 
ICA, by  A.  N.  and  A.  M.  Williamson.  $1.35  net. 

HARPER  &  BROTHERS. 

Franklin  Square,  New  York. 

IN  VACATION  AMERICA,  by  Harrison  Rhodes.     $1.50  net. 

HENRY   HOLT  AND   COMPANY. 

34  W.  32d  St.,  New  York. 

THE  SPINSTER,  by  Sarah  N.  Cleghorn.  A  delightful 
picture  of  New  England  village  life. 

NORTH  OF  BOSTON,  by  Robert  Frost.     $1.25  net. 

HILLSBORO  PEOPLE.  Stories  about  a  Vermont  village. 
"The  full  flavor  of  New  England  is  in  them  all."  $1.35  net. 

JOHN    LANE    CO. 

120  W.  32d  St.,  New  York. 

SEA  AND  BAY,  by  Charles  Wharton  Stork.     A  poem  of 
New  England,  full  of  realism,  interest,  and  beauty. 
(816) 


FAMOUS  PRODUCTS  OF  NEW  ENGLAND 


WALTER    BAKER   &    CO.,  LIMITED,  Milton,  Mass. 

As  an  American  industry  cocoa  grinding  and  mixing  has  the  dig- 
nity of  years.  In  1765  the  first  chocolate  mill  was  erected  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Neponset  river,  where  Mill  No.  5  of  the  Walter 
Baker  plant  stands.  John  Hannan,  an  Irish  immigrant  who  learned 
the  trade  in  London,  induced  one  of  the  Dorchester  millers  to  put 
a  little  capital  into  the  experiment.  On  Hannan's  decease  some 
years  later  Dr.  James  Baker  took  over  the  business  and  founded  the 
house  now  most  prominent  among  American  chocolate  makers. 
From  a  little  wooden  mill  the  business  has  expanded  to  six  large 
buildings  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  with  eleven  and  one  half  acres 
of  floor  space,  besides  yards,  storehouses,  and  power  plants.  Walter 
Baker,  grandson  of  the  Doctor,  gave  the  Baker  name  permanently 
to  the  firm. 

The  Baker  product  has  been  intentionally  individualized.  It  has 
been  kept  free  from  adulterants,  and  such  treatments  as  the  Dutch 
process,  and  other  chemical  methods  of  flavoring  or  coloring  are 
shunned.  The  cocoa  itself,  freed  from  excessive  oil,  is  the  product 
by  which  this  house  is  determined  to  stand  or  fall.  Vanilla  beans 
and  sugar  are  the  only  material  added  to  any  of  the  chocolates  that 
the  firm  produces. 

The  plant  well  repays  a  visit.  Booklets  are  furnished  freely  on 
request. 


WALTHAM    WATCHES 

Not  so  many  years  ago  it  was  common  opinion  that  watches  of 
European  make  were  the  only  good  timepieces.  Today  America 
leads  the  world  in  watch  making  and  WALTHAM  WATCHES  are  famous 
among  those  of  American  make.  WALTHAM  WATCHES  are  so  well 
designed  and  so  carefully  made  that  they  will,  if  properly  cared  for, 
last  a  lifetime. 

The  first  watch  factory  at  Waltham  was  built  in  1854.  This  has 
developed  into  one  of  the  largest  and  most  perfectly  equipped  fac- 
tories of  the  present  day.  The  main  building  is  1000  feet  long.  The 
Company  has  over  4000  employees. 

WALTHAM  WATCHES  are  a  product  of  skill  and  intelligence. 
17,000,000  are  now  in  use.  They  are  chosen  by  watch  experts 
because  of  their  accuracy  and  dependability.  Emerson,  some  years 
ago,  in  describing  the  best  kind  of  a  man,  said  of  him:  "He  is  put 
together  like  a  Waltham  Watch." 


(817) 


8i8 


FAMOUS    PRODUCTS'  OF   NEW   ENGLAND 


HENRY    F.   MILLER    &    SONS    PIANO    CO. 

395    Boylston    St.,    Boston.     1105    Chestnut    St.,   Philadelphia,   Pa. 
25  Forest  Ave.,  Portland,  Me.     Factory  at  Wakefield,  Mass. 

HENRY  F.  MILLER  was  a 
musician  and  salesman  when  he 
started  to  build  pianos  in  1863; 
he  made  pianos  only  of  the  best 
quality,  the  kind  he  liked  to 
play  and  was  proud  to  sell.  His 
sons  and  grandsons  have  main- 
tained his  reputation  by  a  strict 
adherence  to  his  standards,  so 
today  more  than  ever  the  name 
"HENRY  F.  MILLER"  is  always 
•  included  in  the  short  list  of  the 
leading  pianos  of  the  world. 

Tone,  touch,  style,  and  wear 
are  the  watchwords  of  their  pro- 
gress; they  are  endorsed  by 
musicians  everywhere  for  their 
quality;  they  appeal  to  the  pur- 
chaser for  their  handsome  case 
designs,  and  their  service  is 
measured  by  a  lifetime. 

You  are  cordially  invited  to  visit  any  of  our  warerooms  and  per- 
sonally examine  the  various  styles  of  PIANOFORTES  and  PLAYER- 
FORTES  with  no  obligation  to  buy. 


THE   LYRIC   GRAND 


THE    WILCOX    AND    WHITE    CO.,  Meriden,  Conn. 

The  Makers  of  the  ANGELUS  PLAYER  PIANOS, — the  pioneer  among 
pneumatic  player-pianos. '  For  more  than  sixty-seven  years  the 
members  of  the  White  family  of  New  England  have  been  engaged 
in  the  manufacture,  development,  and  perfecting  of  musical  instru- 
ments. 

The  first  cabinet  Angelus  player  piano  was  built  in  February, 
1897.  To  quote  from  the  United  States  official  census  bulletin: 
"This  instrument,  the  invention  of  E.  H.  White,  may  be  regarded  as 
the  pioneer  of  the  various  similar  attachments  that  have  since  been 
placed  on  the  market." 

The  past  twenty  years  have  noted  a  constant  improvement  and 
development  of  the  Angelus,  until  today  it  is  a  Player  Piano  upon 
which  you  can  play  like  an  accomplished  pianist.  This  is  because 
of  the  three  exclusive  and  patented  features  which  have  made  the 
Angelus  world-famous;  the  PHRASING  LEVER, — a  most  valuable  and 
important  expression  device,  giving  control  of  tempo  only  equaled 
by  human  fingers, — the  MELODANT,  that  emphasizes  the  theme  or 
melody, — and  the  DIAPHRAGM  PNEUMATICS, — through  which  the 
human  touch  is  obtained.  Write  for  Illustrated  Booklet. 


FAMOUS  PRODUCTS"  OF  NEW  ENGLAND          819 
HUNTINGTON  PIANOS 

Made  by  THE  HUNTINGTON  PIANO  CO.,  SHELTON,  CONN. 
A.  J.  BROOKS,  Pres.;  J.  T.  BREWSTER,  Treas.;  J.  W.  BROOKS,  Sec. 
and  Mgr. 

In  its  first  Catalog  issued  by  THE  HUNTINGTON  PIANO  CO. 
twenty  years  ago  the  company  announced  as  its  fundamental  pur- 
pose, "To  furnish  at  a  moderate  price  an  honestly  made  piano  hav- 
ing all  the  essential  qualities  required  to  make  it  a  desirable  instru- 
ment," and  "To  make  the  HUNTINGTON  PIANO  an  instrument 
that  shall  win  on  its  merits." 

The  success  of  the  HUNTINGTON  PIANO  has  been  due  to  the 
strict  adherence  to  these  maxims.  Growing  business  has  called  for 
several  enlargements  of  plant,  which  today  has  a  capacity  for  making 
5000  pianos  a  year — 44,000  now  in  use. 

Paderewski,  the  most  renowned  pianist,  selected  the  HUNTING- 
TON  as  shown  by  this  facsimile  of  his  letter. 


Automobilists  touring  the  beautiful  Naugatuck  valley  should  visit 
the  factory  at  Shelton. 

The  HUNTINGTON  PLAYER-PIANO  has  all  the  eminent 
qualities  of  the  HUNTINGTON  PIANO. 

The  New  York  City  warerooms  are  at  the  corner  of  Fulton  Street 
and  Hanover  Place,  Brooklyn.  The  company  also  operate  stores  in 
New  Haven,  Conn.,  801  Chapel  St.;  Bridgeport,  Conn.,  1056  Main 
St.;  Yonkers,  N.Y.,  38  Warburton  Ave.;  and  Pittsburgh,  Pa., 
931  Liberty  Ave.  The  Huntington  Piano  Company  is  represented 
by  dealers  in  nearly  all  large  centers  of  New  England. 

The  beautiful  illustrated  HUNTINGTON  CATALOG  will  be  sent  on 
request. 


820 


FAMOUS    PRODUCTS    OF    NEW    ENGLAND 


GEO.  H.  ELLIS    CO.     Established  1873.     Inc.  1901 

272  Congress  St.,  Boston,  Mass. 
Geo.  H.  Ellis,  Treasurer  Albert  W.  Finlay,  President 


THE  SPACIOUS,  WELL-LIGHTED  PRESS-ROOM 

One  of  the  largest  printing  plants  in  New  England,  completely 
equipped  with  all  modern  facilities  for  insuring  quality  and  prompt- 
ness as  applied  to  high-class  work.  A  long  and  varied  experience  in 
producing  catalogs,  class  books,  prospectuses,  periodicals,  and  books 
of  every  variety.  Printers  of  the  Sargent  Handbooks. 


GEO.  W.  WHEELWRIGHT    PAPER    CO.,  Fitchburg,  Mass. 
Makers  of  "BPF"  Paper  (Best  Plate  Finish  Paper) 

Selected  for  this  Handbook  of  New  England  as  the  best  after  a 
careful  investigation  of  a  score  of  others.  "BPF"  is  especially 
made  for  those  who  wish  to  advertise  attractively  with  half-tone 
illustrations.  It  is  made  in  varying  weights  and  colors. 

"BPF"  Paper  does  not  have  a  shiny  surface,  so  causes  little  strain 
on  the  eyes.  It  is  ten  per  cent  lighter  than  Super-Calendered  Paper 
of  equal  bulk.  In  catalogs  it  saves  postage.  Our  papers  are  of 
standardized  quality  and  uniformity  can  be  relied  upon. 

The  Leominster  Mill  makes  the  wellknown  "Dove  Mill  Brand" 
of  Bristol  Boards  in  many  grades  and  colors.  This  Company  was 
the  pioneer  in  this  kind  of  paper. 


FAMOUS   PRODUCTS    OF    NEW   ENGLAND  821 

THE   YALE   &   TOWNE   MFG.   CO.,  9  East  4oth  St.,  New  York 

Works  at  STAMFORD,  CONN.,  where  YALE  Products  are  made. 

The  birthplace  of  the  Yale  industry  was  at  Newport,  Herkimer 
County,  N.Y.  Linus  Yale,  Senior,  who  was  born  there  in  1840, 
began  the  manufacture  of  "pin-tumbler"  locks.  His  son,  Linus 
Yale,  Jr.,  in  1868  formed  a  partnership  with  Henry  R.  Towne. 

The  Yale  &  Towne  Manufacturing  Company,  beginning  in  Stam- 
ford, Conn.,  in  1869,  with  about  thirty  employees,  under  the  man- 
agement of  Henry  R.  Towne,  has  steadily  grown. 

Scientific  management  and  provisions  for  employees'  welfare  are 
made  much  of.  In  scope  and  diversity  the  company  is  the  largest 
manufacturer  of  locks  in  the  world.  The  Stamford  plant  covers  20 
acres  and  has  a  capacity  for  over  4000  employees.  45,000  different 
kinds  of  articles  are  manufactured. 

YALE  QUALITY  is  assured  by  trained  experts  and  specialists;  by 
laboratory  tests;  by  a  Training  School  for  specialized  mechanics; 
by  critical  inspection  and  tests  of  all  products,  during  manufacture 
and  when  completed. 

You  are  invited  to  visit  the  unique  Exhibit  Rooms  on  the  ground 
floor  of  our  new  office  building,  No.  9  E.  4oth  St.,  N.Y.  City. 
There  you  may  enjoy  beautiful  wood-carvings,  and  metal  work  in 
endless  variety  of  design  and  finish,  and  an  exhibition  of  locks  of  every 
style,  including  the  Yale  Cylinder  Lock  in  its  many  forms. 

Open  daily  to  visitors  from  9  A.M.  to  5  P.M.,  Saturdays  to  12  M. 

DANIEL    LOW    &    CO.,  Salem,  Mass. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  stores  in  New  England. 

A  comprehensive  stock  of  gold,  silver,  china,  glassware,  leather 
goods,  and  numberless  novelties,  and  unusual  things.  Souvenirs  of 
Salem,  and  Colonial  reproductions  in  silver,  china,  and  mahogany. 
This  is  not  only  a  leading  local  enterprise,  but  one  of  America's  great 
mail  order  concerns.  A  large  catalog  issued  yearly  goes  out  to 
thousands  of  customers  in  every  State,  and  is  sent  free  upon  request. 

INTERNATIONAL    SILVER    COMPANY,  Meriden,  Conn. 

The  three  Rogers  brothers  discovered  in  1847  a  process  of  electro- 
silver  plating,  and  a  little  later  began  the  manufacture  of  "  1847 
Rogers  Bros"  knives,  forks,  and  spoons. 

The  Meriden  Britannia  Company  was  able  to  supply  the  needed 
capital  and  factory  facilities,  so  an  alliance  was  formed  and  the 
manufacture  proceeded  under  the  direct  supervision  of  the  Rogers 
Brothers.  The  "1847  Rogers  Bros"  brand  is,  then,  the  original 
"Rogers  Bros"  silverware. 

The  International  Silver  Company  was  formed  in  1898  consoli- 
dating the  Meriden  Britannia  Company  and  a  number  of  the  more 
important  silver  plate  concerns  of  the  country.  Thus  it  became  the 
direct  commercial  descendant  of  Rogers  Brothers,  and  is  today  the 
largest  makers  of  silverware  in  the  world. 

This  same  "  1847  ROGERS  BROS"  brand  of  silver  plate  is  the  iden- 
tical make  that  graced  the  tables  of  our  grandparents.  Sold  by 
leading  dealers  everywhere. 


822  FAMOUS   PRODUCTS   OF   NEW   ENGLAND 


THE    MALLEABLE    IRON    FITTINGS    CO. 


THE  COMPANY  S  PLANT  AT  BRANFORD,  CONN. 

The  MALLEABLE  IRON  FITTINGS  CO.,  incorporated  in 
1864,  is  one  of  the  oldest  malleable  iron  foundries  in  the  country. 
It  manufactures  the  wellknown  MIF  brand  of  malleable  and  steel 
pipe  fittings,  furnishes  to  order  castings  in  malleable,  steel,  and 
special  alloy  metals,  and  does  galvanizing,  tinning,  japanning,  and 
contract  machining.  The  buildings  cover  over  ten  acres  of  floor 
space  and  noo  people  are  employed  at  the  present  time. 


THE    L.  S.  STARRETT    CO.,  Athol,  Mass. 
Makers  of  Fine  Mechanical  Tools 

"The  tools  made  by  The  L.  S.  Starrett  Co.  at  Athol,  Mass.,  are 
mainly  for  the  use  of  machinists  and  carpenters.  Among  the  more 
than  2100  different  styles  and  sizes  of  tools  made  by  this  concern 
are  a  number  of  particular  interest  to  owners  and  operators  of  autor 
mobiles,  such  as  Micrometer  Calipers,  Hack  Saws  and  Frames,  Center 
Punches,  Steel  Rules,  Calipers  and  Dividers,  Levels,  Screw  Thread 
Gages,  etc. 

Three  tools  of  great  popularity  for  use  in  connection  with  auto- 
mobiles are  the  Electricians'  Pocket  Screw  Driver  which  has  four 
interchangeable  blades  and  a  hard  rubber  handle  for  insulation  from 
electrical  currents;  the  Starrett  Patent  Expansion  Plier  so  made 
as  to  grip  securely  any  size  or  shape  within  its  capacity;  and  the 
Starrett  Patent  Automobile  Wrench. 

There  are  lots  of  Ratchet  Wrenches  made,  and  the  most  of  them 
cost  less  than  the  Starrett  Wrench  and  they  are  worth  less.  The 
Starrett  Patent  Ratchet  Wrench  is  fully  up  to  the  high  standard 
maintained  by  the  Starrett  Tools  in  general,  and  is  the  wrench  outfit 
for  the  man  who  will  be  satisfied  with  nothing  but  the  best. 

If  you  have  time  you  can  stop  and  see  these  tools  at  the  hardware 
store  of  C.  F.  Paige  &  Co.,  Inc.,  on  Main  Street,  Athol,  or  you  can 
get  them  through  your  local  hardware  dealer.  The  L.  S.  Starrett  Co. 
will  be  glad  to  send  a  complete  catalog  of  their  tools  to  anyone 
who  will  write  for  it." 


FAMOUS    PRODUCTS    OF   NEW   ENGLAND  823 


CHENEY   SILKS 

In  1838  at  South  Manchester,  Conn.,  the  Cheney  Brothers  began 
the  manufacture  of  silk  fabrics.  Today  they  have  there  the  largest 
silk  manufacturing  plant  in  the  world,  with  32  acres  of  floor  space 
and  4500  operatives. 

Silk  fabrics,  so  often  thought  to  be  a  foreign  product,  are  an 
American  staple,  through  the  efforts  of  this  family.  Cheney  Broth- 
ers were  the  first  people  to  print  silk  by  machine;  also  the  first  to 
devise  a  successful  process  for  making  silks  resist  water-spotting. 
The  beauty  and  wearing  qualities  of  modern  silks  are  due  to  the 
inventiveness  of  the  New  World. 

Cheney  Silks  include  dress  goods,  upholstery  and  decorative 
fabrics,  velvets,  ribbons,  cravats,  and  yarns.  The  booklet,  "  Cheney 
Silks,  Why  People  Should  Buy  Them,"  sent  postpaid  on  request. 

MONADNOCK    MILLS,  Claremont,  N.H. 
Geo.  A.  Tenney,  Treas. 

THE  LARGEST  AND  FOREMOST  MANUFACTURER  OF  HIGH  GRADE 
MARSEILLES,  SATIN,  AND  DIMITY  BEDSPREADS  IN  AMERICA. 

Bedspreads  of  artistic  design,  with  individual  centers,  for  hotels 
and  institutional  service  a  specialty. 

The  plant  has  the  remarkable  output  of  from  two  to  three  thou- 
sand spreads  a  day. 

DENNISON    MANUFACTURING    CO.,  Framingham,  Mass. 
MANUFACTURERS  OF  TAGS,  LABELS,  CREPE  PAPERS,  ETC. 

Colonel  Andrew  Dennison,  who  won  his  military  title  in  the  War 
of  1812,  was  a  shoemaker  in  Brunswick,  Me.  In  1844  his  son,  a 
Boston  jeweler,  made  a  visit  home  and  suggested  that  his  father 
supply  the  jewelry  trade  with  suitable  cardboard  boxes,  which  at 
that  time  were  imported  and  of  cheap  quality.  Colonel  Dennison 
took  it  up  and  two  of  his  daughters  helped  to  finish  the  first  boxes 
made.  E.  W.  Dennison,  a  brother,  was  the  Yankee  sales  agent. 
In  1850  he  opened  a  small  salesroom  at  203  Washington  St.,  Boston, 
which  later  grew  to  the  present  business  of  Dennison  Manufacturing 
Company.  In  1850  eight  persons  did  all  the  work.  Today  the 
company  employs  over  3000  persons.  It  has  a  large  and  up-to-date 
factory  at  Framingham,  Mass.,  and  it  has  retail  stores  in  Boston, 
New  York,  Philadelphia,  Chicago,  and  St.  Louis. 

MAYHEW    TOOLS 

H.  H.  MAYHEW  COMPANY.     Established  1856. 
Shelburne  Falls,  Mass. 

Makers  of  QUALITY  TOOLS  for  more  than  half  a  century. 

Our  auto  kits  of  small  tools  are  without  question  of  inestimable 
value  to  every  car  owner,  chauffeur,  and  garage  keeper.  Leaflets 
on  request.  If  you  appreciate  good  tools  you  will  want  to  visit 
our  "Factory  beside  the  Falls"  when  passing  through  town. 


824  FAMOUS    PRODUCTS  OF    NEW   ENGLAND 


CAPE    COD    PRODUCTS    CO.,    North  Truro,  Mass. 

CAPE  COD  SOUVENIRS  AND  GIFTS:  BAYBERRY  CANDLES  made 
from  the  fragrant  wax  of  Cape  Cod  Bayberries.  A  box  of  our 
candles,  as  we  put  them  up  attractively,  makes  a  delightful  souvenir 
present  of  the  Cape.  A  box  of  our  four-inch  hand-dipped  tapers, 
35  cents  postpaid. 

WILD  BEACH  PLUM  JELLY  has  a  piquant  flavor  that  reminds  you 
of  the  Cape.  Two  glasses  in  an  attractive  box,  safely  mailed,  50 
cents  postpaid. 

Write  for  our  attractive  illustrated  price  list  of  Cape  Cod 
specialties. 

BAYBERRY  CANDLES  in  all  sizes  for  souvenirs  and  Christmas  gifts. 

BAYBERRY  WOOD  CANDLE  STICKS,  BAYBERRY  WAX  "THIMBLES." 

BEACH  GRASS  PIN  TRAYS,  SANDWICH  TRAYS,  and  TABLE  MATS. 

CAPE  COD  PICCALILLI  from  the  receipt  of  a  Cape  Cod  woman. 

When  you  are  on  the  Cape,  come  and  see  us  make  these  things. 

The  candle  dipping  in  the  oldtime  way  is  especially  interesting. 


PACKER'S    TAR    SOAP 

Everybody  knows  of  Tar  Soap.  And  Tar  Soap  means  Packer's. 
For  years  it  has  been  made  at  Mystic,  Conn.,  and  shipped  through- 
out the  world.  There  is  a  reason  for  its  popularity,  a  reason  that 
is  fundamental.  Packer's  Tar  Soap  is  not  merely  soap  plus  tar. 
The  ingredients  so  carefully  blended  are  gathered  in  many  lands. 
They  are  selected  and  combined  for  the  specific  purpose  of  producing 
worldwide  satisfaction  and  a  worldwide  market.  The  proof  of  the 
pudding  is  the  eating;  the  proof  of  the  soap  is  the  washing. 


POND'S    EXTRACT 

The  Household  Panacea  of  our  Grandmothers  has  its  home  at 
Clinton,  Conn.  No  motorist  can  dispense  with  the  soothing  witch 
hazel  extract. 

It  is  a  solution  in  alcohol  of  abstracts  from  the  Hamamelis,  whose 
yellow  cruciform  flowers  blossom  in  November  all  over  New  England. 
Even  in  the  days  of  the  Indian  its  healing  properties  made  it  one  of 
the  most  popular  of  New  England  products.  The  first  settlers 
learned  its  value  as  a  poultice  of  bruised  bark  and  as  a  lotion  of  its 
juices  from  the  red  men  themselves. 


HIGHWAY  CONSTRUCTION 

THE  BARBER  ASPHALT  PAVING  CO.,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

The  New  England  States  have  several  hundred  miles  of  TRINIDAD 
LAKE  and  BERMUDEZ  asphalt  roads  constructed  both  by  the  Mixing 
and  the  Penetration  Process.  In  the  former  method  the  material 
is  mixed  hot  with  sand  and  stone,  then  placed  on  a  suitable  founda- 
tion and  rolled  to  compaction.  Penetration  roads  are  made  by  plac- 
ing the  stone  on  the  road-bed,  as  for  waterbound  macadam,  but 
asphalt  is  used  as  a  binding  material.  The  first  cost  of  the  pene- 
tration method  is  $3000  to  $4000  or  less  per  mile.  Let  us  tell  you 
the  experiences  many  cities  have  had  with  our  pavements. 

HASTINGS    PAVEMENT    COMPANY 
Office,  25  Broad  St.,  New  York.     Works,  Hastings-on-Hudson 

Asphalt  block  pavement  is  a  patented  block  pavement,  made  of 
hard  trap  rock  held  together  by  an  asphalt  cement.  The  hot  mix- 
ture is  consolidated  under  tremendous  pressure.  Unlike  a  mono- 
lithic pavement,  it  is  easily  repaired. 

It  has  stood  the  test  of  time.  The  Albany  Post  Road,  the  Shore 
Road,  as  described  in  this  book,  are  largely  paved  with  asphalt 
blocks. 

An  interesting  booklet  will  be  sent  on  request. 

LEHIGH   PORTLAND    CEMENT    COMPANY 
Chicago,  111.,  Allentown,  Pa.,  Spokane,  Wash. 

A  road  16  feet  wide  made  with  LEHIGH  CEMENT  costs  approxi- 
mately $13,000  a  mile.  This  is  a  little  more  than  a  macadam  road 
would  cost,  but  means  ultimate  saving  because  there  is  no  rebuild- 
ing and  practically  no  maintenance  expense.  Ancient  Roman 
roads  made  of  concrete  may  be  found  in  use  today.  Five  Eastern 
states,  during  the  period  1905-1912,  spent  on  the  average  $608  per 
mile  per  year  for  maintenance  and  repairs  of  their  macadam  roads. 
Hanson,  the  concrete  road  authority,  says  that  a  1 6-foot  concrete 
road  costs  approximately  $50  per  mile  per  year  for  maintenance. 
These  figures  explain  the  claim  "Concrete  for  Permanence."  Our 
interesting  booklet  "CONCRETE  HIGHWAYS"  is  free  for  the  asking. 

WARREN    BROTHERS    COMPANY,   Boston,  Mass. 

BITULITHIC  is  a  patented  macadam  that  has  satisfied  the  test  of 
years  of  experience.  Bitulithic  roads  are  found  all  over  the  country 
where  good  roads  are  appreciated.  WARRENITE  is  the  patented 
COUNTRY  ROAD  surfacing,  that  saves  maintenance  cost.  The  War- 
renite  road  means  profit  to  every  town  and  country  that  uses  it, 
as  well  as  to  us.  Write  today  for  BITULITHIC  or  WARRENITE 
literature.  A  Postal  Card  Will  Do. 

(825) 


826 


HIGHWAY    CONSTRUCTION 


TARVIA   IN    NEW   ENGLAND 


)AD    CONSTRUCTED   WITH   TARVIA    X,    KITTERY, 

TARVIA  and  good  roads  in  New  England  are  so  nearly  synonymous 
that  the  New  England  Hotel  Keepers'  folder  announces  that  the 
automobilist  may  travel  everywhere  in  New  England  over  splendid 
"TARVIA  Highways." 

The  oldest  TARVIA  Highways  are  in  the  vicinity  of  Boston,  the 
Newton  Boulevard,  the  Revere  Beach  Parkway,  etc.,  but  the  mile- 
age has  been  extended  year  by  year  until  a  traveler  over  the  highways 
is  safe  in  ascribing  every  particularly  pleasing  bituminous  surfaced 
road  to  TARVIA. 

The  Springfield- Worcester  road  in  Massachusetts,  the  Providence- 
Boston  road,  the  Quincy-Hingham-Cohasset  and  Plymouth  roads, 
the  North  Shore  roads  on  the  Parkways,  as  far  as  Ipswich,  West 
Newbury,  and  Newburyport,  and  even  beyond  in  Maine,  the  twenty 
odd  miles  from  Kittery  to  Biddeford,  the  good  stretches  in  Rhode 
Island  from  Narragansett  Pier  both  by  the  shore  and  by  the  Tower 
Hill  road  to  Wickford,  and  in  Connecticut  the  Wethersfield  road 
and  many  others  show  TARVIA  construction  and  TARVIA  main- 
tenance. 

Information  about  TARVIA  roads  may  be  obtained  at  any  of  the 
Barrett  offices. 


The 


NEW   YORK  CHICAGO 

ST.    LOUIS  CLEVELAND 

DETROIT  BIRMINGHAM 

NASHVILLE  SALT  LAKE  CITY 


Company 


PHILADELPHIA  BOSTON 

CINCINNATI  PITTSBURGH 

KANSAS   CITY  MINNEAPOLIS 

SEATTLE  PEORIA 


HIGHWAY    CONSTRUCTION 


827 


SOCONY   ASPHALT    BINDERS  and  ROAD    OILS 
MAKE    GOOD    ROADS 


CHARLES    RIVER   PARKWAY,  CAMBRIDGE,  MASS. 
SHOWING   FINISHED    ROAD,  BINDER   B,  PENETRATION    METHOD 

Use  SOCONY  ASPHALT  BINDER  A  for  surfacing  parkways  and  for 
building  sand  and  oil  roads  by  the  layer  method. 

Use  SOCONY  ASPHALT  BINDER  B  for  building  Macadam  roads  by 
the  penetration  method  and  for  building  sand  and  oil  roads  by  the 
mixing  method. 

Use  SOCONY  ASPHALT  BINDER  C  for  building  Asphalt  Macadam  by 
the  mixing  method. 

Use  SOCONY  ASPHALT  ROAD  OILS  for  dust  laying. 

SOCONY  PAVING  ASPHALT,  for  Sheet  Asphalt,  and  SOCONY  MIXING 
ASPHALT,  for  Bituminous  Concrete,  make  smooth  asphalt  pavements. 

SOCONY  ASPHALT  BINDERS  were  used  largely  in  making  the  famous 
Cape  Cod  "Sand  and  Oil"  roads,  see  pp  543,  545.  They  have  been 
since  copied  in  other  parts  of  the  country.  Also  used  in  building 
many  of  the  principal  State  Highways  throughout  the  country. 

THE  MAINE  POST  ROAD  from  Portland  to  Brunswick,  a  distance 
of  21.9  miles,  was  built  of  Bituminous  Macadam,  using  Standard 
Macadam  Asphalt.  Binder.  Being  a  Federal  Aid  Road,  it  was  con- 
structed under  the  supervision  of  the  United  States  Government  and 
the  State  of  Maine  through  the  respective  departments  concerned. 

All  who  ride  in  automobiles  appreciate  the  advantages  of  smooth, 
asphaltic  surfaces  which  result  from  the  use  of  our  Binders  made 
from  Refined  Mexican  Asphalt. 

Those  who  ride  in  automobiles,  and  those  who  sit  beside  the  road, 
all  appreciate  the  advantages  of  dustless  roads. 

Specifications  and  other  particulars  will  be  promptly  furnished  on 
request. 

STANDARD    OIL    COMPANY    OF    NEW    YORK 
ROAD  OIL  DEPARTMENT 


26  BROADWAY 

NEW  YORK 

CITY 


50  CONGRESS  ST. 

BOSTON, 

MASS. 


SOCONY    ASPHALT    SPRAYER 


INDEX. 


Abbot  Academy,  511 
Abbott,  Rev.  Jacob,  621, 

754 

Abenaki,  741 
Abington,  484 
Abolitionists,  657 
Abolition    movement,    58, 

266 
Aborigines,  33 

See  Indians 
Abrasives,  362,  394 
Acoaxet,  435 
Acton,  499,  701 
Adam  Bros.,  the,  49 
Adams,  Abigail,  522 
Brooks,  58,  518,  520 
Charles; 

See  Oliver  Optic 
Charles  Francis,  520 
Hannah,  496 
Herbert,  348,  352.  353 
John,    44,    71,    85,    137, 

367,  496,  520 
John  Qumcy,  521,  522 
Samuel,  58,  85,  428,  458, 

459,  473 
Mass.,  253 

Agassiz,  Alexander,  593 
Louis,  363, 468, 469,  551, 

566 

Agawam,  127,  128,  655 
"Age  of  Reason,"  261 
Agricultural    College, 

Mass.,  327,  394 
Agriculture,  Maine,  23,  52 
Albany,  233,  381,  401 

Post  Road,  222 
Alburg,  273,  274 
Alcott,  Bronson,  424 

Louisa  M.,  425,  436 
Alden,  John,  155,  534,  545 
Priscilla; 

See  Mullens 

Aldrich,  Senator,  60,  180 
Thomas     Bailey,     393, 

667,  674 
Allen,      '  Camp      Meeting 

John,'  749 

Ethan,  55,  242,  243,  258, 

261,     265,     268,    271, 

273,     278,     287,     333, 

463,  731,  732,  733 

Ira,  270,  271,  273,  274, 

733 

Fighting  Parson,  260, 384 
Allen's  Cave,  Ethan,  265 

Park,  Ethan,  271 
Allingtown  Heights,  98 
Allyn,  Lewis  B.,  395 
Alton  Bay,  615 


Amenia,  241 

Ashland,  8,  617 

Ames  family,  575 

Ashton,  444 

Fisher,  199 

Ashuelot  river,  483 

Mfg.  Co.,  321 

Assabet  river,  505 

Oliver,  46,  282,  575 

Assinippi,  483 

Amesbury,  695 

Astor,  Vincent,  231 

Amherst,  326 

Athol,  25,  416,  448 

College,  26,  327 

Junction,  130 

Gen.  Jeffrey,  328 

Attleboro,  195,  202,  431 

Anburey,  Thomas,  73 

Auburn,  Me.,  757 

Andover,  Conn.,  214 

Augusta,  Me.,  758 

Mass.,  510 

Austin,  Moses,  in 

Andre,  Major,  77,  117,  227, 

Texas,  in 

228,  236 

Avon,  558 

Andros,  Gov.  Edmund,  43, 

Ayer,  421 

113,158,403,458,542 

Ayer's  Sarsaparilla,  421 

Androscoggm   River,   758, 

765 

Bacheller,  Irving,  75 

"Angel  of  Hadley,"  326 

Bald  Head  Cliff,  Me.,  676 

Angelus  Player  Piano,  109, 

Baldwin,  Loammi,  603 

818 

Ballou,  Rev.  Adin,  495 

Annisquam,  649 

Hosea,  601 

Ansonia,  280 

Bancroft,  George,  124,  129, 

Anthony,  Susan  B.,  254 

138,  314 

Antinomians,  58 

Bangor,  761 

Antrim,  380 

Bangs,  John  Kendrick,  676 

Appalachian,  24,  27,  28 

Bantam  Lake,  276 

Mountain  Club,  54,  597, 

Baptists,  58,  454 

623 

Bar  Harbor,  777 

Appleton,     Nathan,     385, 

Barlow,  Joel,  117 

465 

Barnard,  Henry,  22 

Apponaug,  R.I.,  185 

Barnet,  358 

Aquidneck,  583,  586 

Barnum  &  Bailey,  86 

Archeozoic,  29 

Institute,  87 

Architecture,  46,  441 

P.  T.,  87 

Argonaut,  91 

Barnstable,  546 

Arlington,  Mass.,  430 

Barre,  Mass.,  447 

Center,  480 

Vt.,  730 

Heights,  430 

Bartlett,   N.H.,   139,   497, 

Vt.,  261 

746 

Armonk,  205 

Barton,  Clara,  139,  497 

Arnold  Arboretum,  476 

Bash  Bish  Falls,  245 

Benedict,   95,    117,  166, 

Bass,   Jethro    (Ruel    Dur- 

167,  207,228,  275,372, 

kee),  54,  336,  352,  609 

590,  690 

Gov.  R.  P.,  379 

Matthew,  37,  252,  391, 

Bath,  Me.,  766 

399 

Baum,  Colonel,  258 

Aroostook,  788 

Baxter,    Sylvester,    6,    17, 

Arsenal,  U.S.,  125,  149 

18,  472,  481 

Artillery    Co.,    Ancient   & 

Baynes,     Ernest     Harold, 

Honorable,  447,  458 

353 

Art  Museum,  75,  100,  124, 

Bay 

138 

Blue  Hill,  776 

Ascutney,  Mt.,  342 

Buzzards,  563 

Ascutneyville,  342 

Casco,  687 

Ashaway,  R.I.,  171 

Frenchman's,  777 

Ashburnham,  507,  596 

Narragansett,  60,  583 

Ashby,  377,  507 

Penobscot,  771 

Ash  Creek,  86 

Bay  Path,  123 

Ashfield,  398 

Bay  State,  45 

(828) 

INDEX 


82Q 


Bearcamp  Mountain,  713 

Bloody  Brook,  317 

Bronx  Park,  67,  235 

Bear  Mountain,  243,  245 

Blow-me-down  Brook,  347, 

Parkway,  the,  235 

Rock,  in 

4Si 

Brooke,  Lord,  158 

Tree,  132 

Mill,  350 

Brookfield.Mass.,  133,  134 

Becket,  394,  397 

Blue  Hill,  Me.,  755,  776 

Conn.,  275 

Bedford,  Mass.,  506 

Blue   Hills,   25,   478,   557, 

Brookline,  40 

N.Y.,  205 

573 

Brooks,  Phillips,  457,  475 

Beecher,  Harriet; 

Blue  Laws,  98,  116 

Brown,  Charles  Farrar; 

See  Stowe,  H.  B. 

Bolton,  505 

See  Ward,  Artemus 

Henry  Ward,   123,   153, 

Booth,  Edwin,  84 

Memorial,  Annmary,  189 

244,  247,  278,  389 

Boothbay,  768 

John,  129,  143,  183,  189 

Lyman,  97,  153 

Borglum,  Gutzon,  77 

of  Providence,  188 

Beers  Plain,  336 

Solon,  80 

Carter,  Library,  190 

Belfast,  Me.,  772 

Boscawen,  611 

Joseph,  183,  187,  188 

Belgrade  Lakes,  759 

Boston,  26,  31,  32,  35,  37, 

Moses,  183,  184,  191 

Bellamy,  Edward,  252 

40,  43,  59,  64,  65,  67, 

Nicholas,  183,  190 

Belle  Haven,  74 

70,  92,  97,   134,   145, 

Brownstone,  302 

Bellingham.  218 

148,  149,  451 

Brown     University,     182, 

Bellows  Falls,  333 

Basin,  27,  28 

188,  190,  191 

Belmonl.  480 

Common,  41 

Brunswick,  Me.,  74 

Benjamin,  Asher,  50 

Harbor,  28 

Vt.,  359 

Bennetts  Bridge,  208 

Massacre,  458 

Bryce,  James,  42,  60 

Bennington,  55,  257 

Metropolitan,  473 

Bryant,    William    Cullen, 

Battle,  258,  260,  405 

"  Boston  News  Letter,"  35, 

247,  248,  407,  409 

Berkeley,  Bishop,  155,  594 

454.  5J7 

Buckland,  399 

Berkshire  land  values,  391 

Boston  State  House,  48,  49 

Bucksport,  773 

Mass.,  253 

Bourne,  543 

Bulfinch,  Charles,  49,  113, 

School,  245 

Bowdoin  College,  765 

147,378,  467,670 

Bjrkshires,  the,  25,  244' 

James,  563 

Bull,  Ephraim,  426 

B  rlin,  Conn.,  109,  no 

Bowles,  Samuel,  123 

Ole,  465,  579 

Me.,  717 

Sherman,  123 

Bunker  Hill,  141               . 

Bernardston,  329 

Boxboro,  499 

Burbank,  Rev.  Aaron,  500 

Bethel,  Me.,  751 

Boxford,  39,  515 

Luther,  420,  500 

Bethlehem,  363 

Bradford,  33 

Burgoyne,  G?n.,     55,     73, 

Beverly,  643,  649 

Mass.,  513 

233,     249,     260,     287, 

Farms,  644 

Vt.,  356 

396,  462,  725 

Biddeford,  679 

"Hist,     of     Plymouth," 

Burlington,  269 

Bigelow,  Poultney,  62,  73 

536 

Burnham  Sch.,  The,  313 

Bixlow  Papers,  The,  39 

Major  John,  536 

Burnside,  118 

Billerica,  38,  429,  430,  506, 

Gov.  William,  533,  539 

General,  442 

.   .508 

Bradley,  Osgood,  139 

Burr,  Aaron,  85,  205,  250, 

Billington  Sea,  432,  541 

Bradstreet,  Anne,  512 

277,  447 

Kirch,  white,  32 

Gov.  Simon,  512 

Mansion,  85 

Birch,  Harvey,  70,  207 

'Branch,'  39 

Peter.  85 

Bird,  Charles  Sumner,  58, 

Brahmins,   Bostonian,   36, 

Thaddeus,  85 

107 

627 

Burritt,  Elihu,  139,  211 

Sanctuary,  86,  353 

Branchville,  Conn.,  275 

Burroughs,    George,    677, 

'Bird  tracks,'  26,  28,  327, 

Brandon,  264 

688,  692 

4iS 

Branford,  103,  no,  151 

John,  231,  393 

Birdseye,     Deacon     John, 

Brass,  208,  280 

Bushnell's  "American 

89,  92 

Brattleboro,  331,  706 

Turtle,"  155 

"  Bixby,  Bije,"  352 

Bread  Loaf  Mountain,  267 

Button  making,  312,  400 

Black  Hall,  160 

Bretton  Woods,  622 

Buzzards  Bay,  435.  561 

Rock  Harbor,  86,  88 

Brewster,  239,  549 

Byfield,  656 

Bhckstone  Park,  190 

Brewster,  Deacon  William, 

Byram,  Lake,  205 

R.I.,  444 

535 

Byram  River,  72,  73 

River.  216 

Bride  Brook,  160 

Timothy,  151 

Bridge,  Old  Chain,  694 

Cable,  George,  313 

William,  217,  453 

Bridgeport,  86,  89 

Calais,  Me.,  782 

Blackwell,  Lucy  Stone,  133 

Bridgewater,  Mass.,  559 

"Caleb  West,"  165 

Blaine,  James  J.,  759 

N.H.,  720 

Calhoun.John  C.,  104,278 

Blake  Stone  Breaker,  44 

Vt.,  727 

Cambrian,  29 

Blanchard,  Thomas,  139 

Bridgton,  744 

Cambridge,  37,  43,  62,  65, 

Blaxton,  William,  444 

Brimfield,  368 

149,  462 

Sec  Blackstone 

Bristol,  N.H.,  720 

Cambridge,  Vt.,  725,  736 

"  Blessing  of  the  Bay,"  456, 

R.I.,  35,  49,  440 

Camden,  Me.,  772 

5°9 

Britannia  ware,  108,  log 

Camel's  Hump,  734 

Block,  Adriaen,  61,  93 

Brockton,  558 

Camp,  Walter,  105 

Island,  59 

Bronx,  the,  66 

Campbell,  William,  I2a 

83o 


INDEX 


Canaan,  246,  286,  289 

Cheshire,  253 

Concord,   Mass.,   54,    148 

Canaan,  N.H.,  739 

Chester,  Conn.,  293 

422-7,  499 

Canaan  Falls,  243,  246 

Mass.,  394 

grape,  426 

Canal,  Cape  Cod,  563 

Vt.,  598,  723 

N.H.,  608 

Manchester,  608 

Chicopee,  321 

Concourse,  ib 

Middlesex,  508 

Chicopee  Falls,  321 

Concord  Philosophers,  426 

Canals,  291,  307,  3.20,  344, 

Chicago  Exposition,  62 

"Coniston,"  336,  351,  722 

613 

Child,  Rev.  Frank  S.,  85 

Connecticut,    33,    35,   42, 

Canonchet,  173,  176 

Chilton,  Mary,  458,  539 

44.,  45,  61-62,  64 

Canonicus,  182 

Choate,   Joseph    H.,    250, 

Basin,  26 

Canterbury,  35 

251,  391 

Blue  Laws,  98 

Canton,  Mass.,  202 

Rufus,  361 

Boundary,  73 

Conn.,  287 

School  for  Boys,  107 

College  for  Women,  164 

Cape  Ann,  643,  647 

Chocolate,  484,  517 

color  markings,  65 

Cod,  27,  28,32,33,61 

Chocorua,  713 

Path,  Old,  43,  127,  148 

Cod  Bay,  33 

Christian     Endeavor     So- 

River and  valley,  25,  26, 

Neddick,  678 

ciety,  685 

27,  29,  31,  43,  65,  290, 

Porpoise,  678 

Church,  Old  Ship,  48,  525 

329 

Capen  School,  The,  313 

Churchill,    Winston,    336, 

River    navigation,    290, 

Carboniferous,  29 

348,     351,    609,    705, 

291 

Carlisle,  32,  38,  506 

722 

Trail,  43 

pines,  506 

Clambakes,  181 

"Constitution,"    the  frig- 

Carman, Bliss,  77 

Clapboards,  ^7,  48 

ate,  200,  280,  637 

Carnegie,  Andrew,  124 

Claremont,  346,  352,  722 

Constitution  Hill,  255,  385 

Foundation,  56 

Clark  University,  138 

'  Constitution  House,'  Ver- 

Casco Bay,  686 

Clay,  Henry,  255 

mont,  343 

Castine,  774 

Clemens,  S.  L. 

Continental  troops,  55 

Castleton,  Vt.,  728 

See  Twain,  Mark 

Converse,  Edmund  C.,  74 

Cataumet,  565 

Clermont,  232 

Converse,  Frederick  Shep- 

Cavendish, 340 

"Clermont,"  The,  232,  272 

herd,  341 

Catholics,  451 

Cleveland,  President,  293, 

Conway,  714 

Cedar,  red,  32 

372,393,  562,  567,  714 

Cooke,  Rose  Terry,  283 

Cenozoic,  29 

Clifton,  633 

Cooper,  James   Fenimore, 

Center  Harbor,  616 

Clinton,  Conn.,  154,  155 

71,  72,  104,  236,  404 

Centerville,  569 

Dam,  376 

Cornish,  124,  347 

Central  Falls,  R.I.,  443 

Mass.,  504 

Cornish  Church,  8ga 

Chamber  of  Commerce,  80, 

Clock    industry,  61,    105, 

Cornwall,  Conn.,  289 

106,  136 

119,  281,  283 

Copley,  85 

Champlain,    33,    52,    273, 

Cluett-Peabody  Co.,  81 

John  Singleton,  456 

670,  777 
Lake,  272 

Clock-making,  105 
Coal,  584 

Square,  50,  475 
Copper  mines,  298 

valley,  24 

Cobalt,  301 

Corbin  Game  Preserve,  722 

Channing,  William  Ellery, 

Cobbett,  William,  70 

Austin,  336,  353 

437,  59° 

Cohasset   Mass..  527 

Park,  336,  353,  354 

Chapin,    Deacon    Samuel, 

Colchester,  Vt.,  273 

Corlear,  Anthony  van,  223 

124 

Colebrook,  365,  718 

Cornwall,  289 

Chapman  Valve  Mfg.  Co., 

Colonial  architecture,  46, 

Cos  Cob,  75,  76 

130 

47 

Cotton,  194,  372,  374,  580, 

Chappaqua,  237 
Charlemont,  413 

bridle  paths,  43 

604,  607,  679,  680,  700 
Cotuit,  568 

Charles  I,  92 
Charles  II,  72,  114,  454 
Charles  Island,  92,  93 
Charles  River,  43,  148,  474 

Coaches,  44 
Cochituate,  Lake,  490 
College  of  New  Rochelle,68 
for  Women,  Connecticut, 

T/;  . 

Craddock,  Matthew,  601 
''Cradle  of  Liberty,"  35 
Craigville,  569 
Cram,  Ralph  Adams,  50, 

Charlestown,   Mass.,   453, 

104 

146 

509 

Mass.  Agr.,  327,  394 

Cranberry,    the,    32,    537, 

N  H     t^8 

Colleges,  452 

1^1  .1.1.,    J^O 

R.I.,  72 

See     Amherst,     Bow- 

j"y 

Crane,  .Ichabod,  227 

Charlotte,  Vt.,  268 
Churlton,  368 

doin,      Dartmouth, 
Harvard,  Yale,  etc. 

W.  Murray,  59,  397 
Crawford  Glen,  746 

Charter  Oak,  113,  114 

Collier,  Price,  524 

Notch,  747 

Chatham,  Mass.,  571 
Chazy,  N.Y.,  274 

Colt  Park,  115 
Colonel     Samuel,      113, 

Cretaceous  peneplain,    29, 
291 

Chelmsford,  38,  701 

117 

Cromwell,  295 

Chelsea,  453,  628 

Colt  Patent  Firearms  Co., 

Oliver,  02,  158 

Cheney,  Timothy,  213 

117,  118 

Croton  Aqueduct,  228,  236 

Cheney  Silks,  213 

"Common  Sense,"  69 

Reservoir,  238 

Chf;p  chet.  216 

Comstock,  Dr.  John,  161 

Croton-on-Hudson,  228 

Chjrryfield,  780 

Conanicut,  177 

Crown  Point,  55,  301,  308 

INDEX 


831 


Crown    Point    Road,   The 

Dighton,  Mass.,  578 

East  Providence,  439 

Old,  265,  340 

Dimock,  Ira,  i8a,  115 

East  Rock,  27,  93 

Croydon,  54,  722 

Dinosaur,  28,  213 

East  Thetford,  118 

Cumminston,  399 

Disbrow  House,  70 

East  Walpole,  197 

Curtis,  G.  W.,  309,  425 

Mercy,  84 

East  Wallingford,  599 

Cushman,  Charlotte,  390 

Dixville  Notch,  718 

East  Windsor,  119 

Cutler,  Miss  Mary  E.,  520 

Dixwell,  John,  95,  98 

Eaton,  Theophilus,  97 

Dobb's  Ferry,  225 

Eddy,  Mary    Baker,    466, 

Dairying,  23,  56 

Dorchester,  Mass.,  41,  306, 

632 

Dalhn,  Cyrus,  430 

574 

Edgewood  Park,  74 

Dalton,  397 

Heights,  141 

Edict  of  Nantes,  70 

Daly,  Dr.  R.  C.,  342 

Dorr.  Thomas  W.,  187,  374 

Edwards,   Jonathan,    104, 

Damariscotta,  769 

Dorr's  Rebellion,  187,  195, 

119,    129,    250,    251, 

Damon,  Isaac,  49,  123 

374 

252,  277,  313,  391 

Dana,  Richard  H.,  645 

Dorset,  449 

Eells,  Major  Samuel,  91 

-Danbury,  Conn.,  82,  206, 

Douglas.  Stephen  A.,  264 

Eggemoggin  Reach,  775 

275 

Dover,  Me.,  786 

Elephant  Monument,   239 

Danby,  262 

Mass.,  498 

Eliot,  Charles  W.,  22,  469, 

Danielson,  373 

N.H.,  709 

473,  777 

Gen.  James,  373 

Plains,  240 

Rev.  Jared,  155 

Danvers,  21,  40,  514,  690 

Dressier,  Marie,  343 

John,  134,  144,  422,  463, 

Danville,  732 

Drumlins,  28 

488,  494,  608 

Darien,  79 

Dublin,  704 

Eliot,  Me.,  709 

Dark  Day,  the,  78 

Duck  farms,  196 

Elizabeth  Islands,  27 

Dartmouth,  Mass.,  435 

Dudley,  Mrs.  Charles  Tar- 

Ellsworth,  776 

Dartmouth  College,  62,  360 

bell,  75 

Mansion,  305 

"Dartmouth         College 

Thomas,  462,  471,  506, 

Oliver,  305 

Party,"  the,  343 

512 

Elm,  31 

Davenport,  Colonel  Abra- 

Dummer Academy,  657 

Berkshire,  384 

ham,  79 

house,  48 

Knoll,  384 

Rev.  John,  97,  98 

Wm.,  103,  657 

Lancaster,  501 

Thomas,  102 

Dunderberg,  229 

Wethersfield,  296 

Neck,  68 

Dunder,  Rock,  270 

Elms,  The,  91 

Davis,  Prof.  W.  M.,  107, 

Dunmore,  Lake,  265 

Elmsford,  236 

378 

Durfee  Hill,  25 

"Elsie  Venner,"  315,  387, 

Daye,  Stephen,  333,  463 

Durham,  Conn.,  in 

682 

Dean,  Silas,  -296 

Durkee,    Ruel,    336,    352, 

Ely  Mansion,  120 

Debonair  Beach,  93 

609 

School,  75 

Decatur,  Commodore,  370 

Dustin,  Hannah,  698 

Deacon   Nathaniel,   Jr., 

Dcdham,  198,  319 

Dutch   in    N.E.,  The,  61, 

1  20 

Pottery,  200 

93,  116,  297,306 

Emerson,    Ralph    Waldo, 

Deerfield,  41,  317 

Duxbury,  534 

37,  319,  410,  424,  477, 

river,  706 

Dwight,  Timothy,  32,  40, 

609 

Deerfield   valley,   25,  412, 

70,  85,  104,  no,  IT?, 

Rev.  William,  424 

414 

140,     157,     170,     194, 

Endicott,  Gov.  John,  641, 

DeLancey.  Judge,  71 

313,    365,    367,    369, 

690,  691 

Deland,  Margaret.  678 

423,    463,    553.    578, 

pear  tree,  690 

de  la  Rochefoucauld,  Due, 

597,    604,    702 

Enfield,  61,  120,  291,  307 

143 

homestead,  the,  322 

Epitaphs,    107,    126,    164, 

De  Monts,  52,  680,  772 

330,  333,  339,  54° 

Denmark,  744 

Eagle  Bridge,  403 

Erie  Canal,  403 

Dennis,  548 

Earthquakes,  300 

Errol,  718 

Derby,  Conn.,  280 

East  Bridgeport,  88 

Erving,  Mass.,  416 

De    Rouville,    Sir   Hertel, 

East  Chester,  66 

Eskers,  28 

Sob 

East  Clarendon,  599 

Essex,  Conn.,  292 

Dess?,.r,  Louis  Paul,  32C 

Eastern  Point,  168 

Junction,  735 

De  Tocqueville,  42 

East  Greenwich,  R.I.,  179 

Mass.,  649 

Devereux,  637 

East  Haddam,  Conn.,  300 

Evans,  Mrs.  Wm.  A.,  74 

Devonian,  29 

Eastham,  551 

Evarts,  William  Maxwell, 

(b  \Y;:rvilIrj,  Hris.sot,   140, 

East  Hebron,  719 

343,  348 

295,  587 

Easthampton,  312 

Prescott,  343 

Dewey,    Admiral    George, 

East  Hampton,  3or 

Sherman,  343 

306.  726.  733 

East  Hartford,  118 

Everett,  625 

Rev.  Orville,  247 

East  Haven,  no,  151 

Edward,  317,  4°9,  4^5 

Dexter,  Me.,  786 

East  Jaffrey,  377 

Mt.,  25 

Hannah,  498 

East  Lee,  393 

Exeter,  702 

Samuel,  199 

East  Lyme,  162 

Exposition,    Agricultural 

Lord  Timothy,  661 

East  Norwalk,  81 

and  Industrial,  309 

Dickens,  Ch-.rlcs,  605 

Eastport,  Me.,  781 

Maine  State,  684 

INDEX 


Fabyans,  621,  747 

Fort  McClary,  673 

Glass-making,     213,     253, 

Fairbanks  House,  200 

McKinley,  687 

255.  3Qi 

Fairfield,  Conn.,  81,  83-87, 

Massachusetts,  408,  409 

Glastonbury,  56,  302 

89 

Rachel,  170 

Glenbrook,  78 

Me.,  760 

Schuyler,  67 

Gloucester,  646 

Fairhaven,  437 

Shirley,  413 

Glover,  Col.  John,  67 

Fairhope  Summer  School, 

Ticonderoga,  452 

Goffe,  William,  92,  93,  98, 

75 

Trumbull,  164,  166 

109,  153,  325,  47i 

Fairlee,  358 

Trumbull  Beach,  91 

&  Whalley,  153,325,471 

Fall  River,  Mass.,  37,  59, 

Washington,  223 

"Gold  Coast,"  470,  627 

580 

Williams,  687 

Golf  Links 

Falls,  Bash  Bish,  245 

Wright,  163 

Ardsley   Country   Club, 

Canaan,  243,  246 

Fowler,  William,  91 

226 

Fifteen  Mile,  358 

Fowler's  Mill,  91 

Arundel    (Kennebunk- 

Housatonic,  243,  246 

Foxboro,  484 

port),  678 

Livermore,  753 

Foy,  Eddie,  68 

Cumaquid,  547 

Liana,  265 

Framingham,  38,  490 

Ekwanok  Country  Club  , 

Mclndoes,  358 

Franconia,  621 

261 

Sky,  256 

Notch,  619 

Gedney   Farm   Country 

Waconah,  397 

Range,  619 

Club,  204 

Wawbeek,  256 

Frankland,  Sir  Harry,  461, 

Great  Barrington,  248 

Falmouth,  Mass.,  565 

636 

Knollwood,  204 

Foreside,  764 

Franklin,  Benjamin,  36,  65, 

Lenox,  389 

Faneuil,  Andrew,  70 

85,  90,  155,  160,  162, 

Mt.  Anthony,  259 

Benjamin,  70 

219,  458,  459,  611 

Norfolk,  286 

Hall,  48,  70,  459 

James,  459 

Pawling,  240 

Peter,  35,  7°,  459 

Me.,  779 

Pittsfield  Country  Club, 

Farmington,  Conn.,  211 

Mass.,  196,  218 

387 

Me.,  754 

N.H.,  611 

Rutland   (Vt.)    Country 

Federal  Express  wreck,  86 

Freeport,  764 

Club,  263 

Fenwick,  157 

French,    Daniel    Chester, 

Shenecosset,  168 

Ferries,  791 

137,    249,    348,    423, 

Springfield  Country 

Field,  Cyrus  W.,  250,  406 

456,  468,  476 

Club,  309 

Rev.  David  Dudley,  154, 

'French  Towne,'  70 

Stockbridge,  249 

250,  293 

Frohman,  Charles,  265 

Waubanakee     (Burling- 

Eugene, 449 

Frohmans,  the,  78 

ton,  Vt.),  269 

Henry  M.,  251 

Fryeburg,  Me.,  713,  745 

Weatogue    Country 

Jonathan  E.,  250 

Fulton,  Robert,  232,  356, 

Club,  89 

Roswell,  327 

690 

Wee  Barn  Country  Club, 

Fifteen  Mile  Falls,  358 

"Fundamental     Orders, 

79 

Fisher's    Island,    59,    163, 

The,"  116 

Wyantenuck    Country 

170 

Fur  trade,  120,  128 

Club,  248 

Fishkill  Village,  229 

York  Country  Club,  674 

Fiske,  John,  117,  294,  461 

Gage,  General,  148,  458 

Goodyear,  Charles,  97,  105 

Fitch,  John,  up,  213 
Colonel  Thomas,  81 
Fitchburg,  37,  419 
Fitzwilliam,  597 

Gales  Ferry,  370 
Gallaudet,  Dr.,  115 
Gallows  Hill,  117,  638 
Gardiner,  783 

patents,  105 
rubber  industry,  105 
Gookin,  Daniel,  4*22,  463 
Gorges,  Fernando,  453,  612, 

Flagstaff,  756 

Gardner,  418 

675,  680 

Flanders  Village,  162 

Gorham,  717 

Floating  Bridge,  Lynn,  631 
Florence,  400 

Garfieid,    James    A.,    405, 
408 

Tide  Mill,  79 
Goshen,  400 

Florida,  411 
"Flower    of    Essex,"    the, 

Flume^The,  N.H.,  619 
Fog  Plain,  162 
Foote,  Arthur,  199 

Garrison,  W.  L.,  258,  659 
Gaspee,  183,  192 
Gay  Head,  23,  33 
Gaylordsville,  288 
General  Electric  Co.,  386, 

Gosnold,  Bartholomew,  33  , 
73,  436,  678 
Gough,  John  B.,  141 
Graf  ton,  493 
Grafton  Center,  N.H.,  739 
Graham,     Dr.     Sylvester, 

Forbes,  Ca'meron,  198 
Forestry,    447,    448,    596, 

629,  632 
Georgian  architecture,  46, 

308 
bread,  308 

623 

48,  49 

Grand  Isle,  273 

Fort  Cassin,  268 

Georgetown,  516 

Granite,     171,     219,    342, 

Crabo,  381 

Gerry,  Elbridge,  466,  635 

520,  648,  730 

Dummer,  332,  409 

Gibson,  Hamilton,  408 

State,  54 

Ethan  Allen,  271 

Gilbert,  Cass,  275 

Grant,  Gen.  U.  S.,  119,  306 

Griswold,  166,  167 

Glacial  period,  26,  27,   29, 

Mrs.  U.  S.,  262 

Hill,  Groton,  Conn.,  169 

107 

ancestors,  120 

Lee,  223 

Gladden,  Rev.  Dr.  Wash- 

Grasshopper Plains,  658 

Levett,  687 

ington,  129 

Gray,  Me.,  757 

INDEX 


833 


Great  Barrington,  247 

Hamlin,     Hannibal,     750, 

Highway     Commission, 

Great  Boar's  Head,  664 

761,  763 

first,  43,  45 

Great  Swamp  Fight,  173, 

Hampden,  John,  306 

Highways; 

178 

R.R.,  130 

See  roads 

Greater  Vermont  Associa- 

Hampshire Co.,  322 

Hillhouse,  James,  97 

tion,  57,  334 

Hampton,  N.H.,  664 

Hillsboro,  380 

Greeley,  Horace,  237,  238, 

Falls,  664 

Hillside  School  for  Girls,  80 

319,  4So 

Hancock,  N.H.,  380 

Hingham,  48,  524 

Green,  Albert  C.,  142 

John,  58,  428,  429,  458, 

Hinsdale,  336 

Darius,  480 

473,476,478,  522 

Hitchcock,  Prof.  Edward, 

Greenbush,  5.31 

Hanging  Hills,  26,  108,  109 

196,  318,  327,  739 

Greenfield,  319,  415 

Hanover,  Me.,  740 

Hoar,  Senator  George  Fris- 

Green,  Gretna,  330,  333 

Mass.,  483 

bie,  137,  423 

Hetty,  333 

N.H.,  360 

Hockanum,  323 

Mountain  Boys,  55,  62, 

Harbor  Woods,  91 

Holden,  446, 

258,  265,  330,  724 

Hardware  industry,  77,  106 

Chapel,  467 

Mountain  Club,  57,  260, 

Harlakenden  House,  351 

Holderness,  617 

334 

Robert,  429 

Hole,  38 

Mountain     Trail,     265, 

Harlem  River,  66 

Holland,   Dr.   J.   G.,    123, 

599,  724,  727 

Harpswell,  764 

129,  3i5,  323 

Mountains,  27,  28 

Harrington,  780 

Hollis  Hall,  467 

Greene,    General    Francis, 

Harris.  Win.  T.,  22 

Dr.  Ira  N.,  139 

179 

Harrison,  744 

Thomas,  220,  467 

General  Nathanael,  179, 

Peter,  48,  458,  463,  588 

Holliston,  220 

186,  509 

Hartford,  34,  42,  103,  up, 

Holmes,    Oliver    Wendell, 

Police  Commissioner, 

in,  128,  299 

146,    247,    315,    384, 

179 

Hartland,  344 

386,    387,    465,    645, 

Governor  Silas,  179 

Harvard  forest,  447 

658,  682,  696,  777 

Greenwich,  65,  66,  74,  76 

John,  461,  472 

Holmesdale,  387 

Academy,  75 

University,  37,  61,  103, 

Holt,  Dr.  Henry,  271 

'Old  Towne,'  75 

149,  262,  426,  446,  461. 

Holv  Ghost  and  Us  Soc., 

Vt.,  725 

466,    476,    491,    496, 

"36,766 

Greylock,  25,  244,  253,  255, 

568,  637,  700 

Holyoke,  310 

405,  409,  410 

-Yale  boat  race,  163 

Elizur,  310,  314 

Griscom,  Hon.  Lloyd  C.,  85 

Harvey,  Colonel,  54 

Mary  Pynchon,  126 

Griswold,  Matthew,  160 

Harwich,  570 

Hooker,  Rev.Thomas,  116, 

Miss  Florence,  162 

Hassam,  Childe,  159 

462 

Groton,  Conn.,  165,  167 

Hastings,  72,  225 

Hoosac  Mountain,  43,  254, 

Mass.,  28,  507 

Hatfield,  315 

403,  410,  411 

School,  507 

Hathorne,  Judge  William, 

Tunnel,  410,  411 

Groveland,  516 

692 

Hoosick   River,  401,   403, 

Guildhall,  359 

Hatmaking,  206,  696,  699 

409 

Guilford,  103,  152-153,33° 

Havemeyer  estate,  67 

Falls,  404 

Gulf,  39 

Haverhill,  Mass.,  697 

Hope  Valley,  R.I.  ,  171 

Ottaquechee,  727 

N.H.,  362 

Hopcdale,  495 

Williamstown,  729 

Haversham,  172 

Hopkins  Academy,  325 

Gut,  38 

Hawthorne,     Nathaniel, 

Prof.  Albert,  256,  409 

246,    252,    384,    390. 

Edward,  103,  325 

Haddam,  293 

391,    392,    406,    410, 

Governor,  35 

.Hadley,  103,  128 

412,    414,    424,    425, 

Grammar  School,  103 

Falls,  310 

426,    620,    632,    639, 

Mark,  252,  407,  408,  409 

Path,  43   - 

675,    690,    693,    743, 

Stephen,  209 

Hagedorn,    Hermann,    85, 

70S 

Hopkinton,  43,  380 

379 

Hay,  John,  721 

Hopper,  the,  256 

Hale,     Edward     Everett, 

Haystack  Monument,  407 

Horsford,   Eben   N.,    148, 

139,     174,    270,    317, 

Mountain,  706 

149 

367,     440,     447,     708, 

Hayward,  Mrs.  ('  Beatrice 

Hosmer,  Harriet  G.,  149 

7U 

Herford'),  147 

Hotchkiss  School,  the,  242 

Nathan,  6,  80,  113,  164, 

Hayward's  Quarry,  27,  484 

Houlton,  788 

298 

Henniker,  380     • 

Housatonic,  29,  249 

"Half  Moon,"  the,  232 

'Herford,  Beatrice,'  147 

river,  89,  275,  276,  279, 

Hall,  Dr.  Lyman,  108 

See  Mrs.  Hayward 

386 

Dr.  G.Stanley,  138,398, 

Herreshoffs,  the,  442 

valley,  25,  208,  244,  288 

399,  409 

Hessians,  83,  119,  260 

House    of    Sixty    Closets, 

Halleck,  Fitz-Greene,  152 

Heywood,  Levi,  418 

The,  85 

Halloween  Park,  97 

Higganum,  204 

Howe,  Lord,  67,  454 

Hallowell,  Me.,  784 

Higginson,  Thomas  Went- 

Howe,  David.  145 

Hamilton,  Alexander,  226 

worth,  590,  705 

Elias,  89,  135 

Hamilton,  Mass.,  652 

Highland  Light,  553 

Mrs.  Jemima,  84a 

§34 


INDEX 


Howe,  John.  148 

Irving,     Washington,     79, 

Kenilworth,  Eng.,  154 

Tyler,  134 

226,    227,    252,    297, 

Kennebec  River,  767 

William,  135 

403 

Kennebunk,  679 

Howells,    William     Dean, 

Irvington,  226 

Kennebunkport,  678 

337,  492,  674,  734 

Iselin  estates,  68 

Kensico  Hills,  204 

Hudson,  232,  505 

Island 

Reservoir,  204 

Hendrik,  232,  382 

Aquidneck,  583,  585 

Kent,  289 

Henry  N.,  266 

Block,  59 

Kidd,    Captain,    92,    155, 

Park,  69 

Conanicut,  177 

229,  335,  458 

River,  28,  33,  222 

Fishers,  163 

Kilburn's  house,  338 

Valley,  24 

Marthas   Vineyard,    27, 

Peak,  338 

Huguenots,  69,  70,  71,  81, 

28,  566 

Killingly,  Conn.,  374 

90,  164 

Mount  Desert,  776 

Killington  Peak,  263 

Hull,  Isaac,  156 

Nantucket,  566 

Killingworth,  Conn.,  103 

John,  174 

Orrs,  764 

The  Birds  of,  154 

Joseph,  156 

Plum,  657 

Kinderhook,  233 

Humphreys,     General 

Rhode,  59 

Kineo,  787 

David,  280 

Thachers,  648 

King  Philip; 

Hunt,  Richard  M.,  331 

Isle  la  Motte,  273 

See  Philip,  King 

William  Morris,  331,  646 

Isles  of  Shoals,  666 

King's   Highway,   43,   88, 

Huntington,  394 
Collis  P.,  67 

Jackman,  785 

345 
King,  Starr,  365,  624,  717, 

Hurd,  Andrew,  90 

Jackson,  716 

752 

Ebenezer,  90 

Helen  Hunt,  327 

Kingston,  33,  36 

Hurlbut,  B.  S.,  269 

Jamaica  Plain,  Mass.,  476 

R.I.,  174 

Hutchinson,  Anne,  67 

Vt.,  449 

Kipling,  R.,  331,  332,  646 

Governor,  518 

}ames,  G.  P.  R.,  250 

Kittery,  671 

Hyannis,  Mass.,  569 

arves  collection,  100 

Point,  51 

Hyde  Park,  Mass.,  573 

Jarvis  House,  96 

Knickerbocker,   Cornelius, 

N.Y.,  231 

Jay,  John,  71,  238 

242 

Mansion,  71 

family,  382 

Ice  Glen,  the,  251 
Sheet,  the,  27 
Indian  College,  467,  473 

Jefferson,  752 
Joe,  544,  562,  567,  709 
Thomas,  42,  188 
Jesup,  Ebenezer,  82 

mansion,  403 
Press,  the,  68 
"Knickerbocker's  History 
of  New  York,"  297 

grant,  91 

Morris  K.,  82,  389 

Knight,    Madame    Sarah, 

Harbor,  74 
01       » 

-Sherwood  Memorial  Li- 

158, 164 

rchard,  130 

brary,  82 

Knox,  General,  462,  463 

Rocks,  78 
Trails,  43,65,  73,92,  122 
Indians,  33,  34,  62,  67,  72, 
73,  81,  88,  92,98,  128, 

Jewelry,  195,  202 
Jewett,  Sarah  Orne,  645 
Johnson,  Clifton,  313,  323 

f~*  ,,_:i     __u 

Kosciusko,  450 
Labden,  Cornelius,  76 

129,    132,    134,    142, 
146,    161,    172,    180, 

l^ynl,  970 
Mrs.,  the  captive,  339 
Mrs.  J.  F.,  75 

Laddin's  Rock  Park.  76 
La  Farge,  125,  457,  699 

250,    251,    252,    289, 

Mary,  73a 

Lafayette,  72,  85,  119,  133, 

302,    317,    330,    335, 

Dr.  Samuel,  30,  155 

145,    162,    188,    195, 

338,    339,    361,    366, 

Vt.,  736 

226,    240,    271,    342, 

370,    372,    373,    374, 

Jones.  Colonel  Elisha,  148 

384,    584,    641,    660 

385,    447,    453,    480, 

Inigo,  48 

696 

488,     494,     511,     512, 
524,     568,     577,    626, 
67.S,     677,     679,     698, 

John  Paul,  670,  710 
"Johnny    Cake    Papers," 
178 

Lake  Bomoseen,  728 
Champlain,  272 
Chaubunagungamaug, 

788 
Industrial    Conditions, 
Springfield,  127;  Dan- 

Joppa  Flats,  658 
Jordan  Creek,  161 
'Josh  Billings,'  255 

374 
China,  Me.,  760 
Contoocook,  N.H.,  610 

bury,  207 

Josselyn,  454 

Dunmore,  265 

Ingalls,  Senator,  693 
Ingersoll  watches,  209 

Judge's  Cave,  92,  93 
Jurassic,  28,  29 

Echo  (Conway),  715 
Echo  (Franconia),  620 

Inness,  Geo.,  715 

Long,  744 

"Innocents  Abroad,"  115 

Kames,  24,  174 

Makheenac,  251 

Insurance  comp-inies,  118 

Karlstein,  200 

Massabesic,  608,  703 

International    Silver    Co., 

Katahdin,  25 

Memphremagog,  737 

109,  210 

Katonah,  238 

Moosehead,  786 

Intervale,  715 

Kearsarge,  Mt.,  715 

Morey,  356 

Ipswich,  28,  653 

Keene,  N.H.,  597 

Newfound.  719 

petitioners,  134 

Keller,  Helen,  196 

Onota,  385 

Iron,   155,   218,   239,   240, 

Kellogg,  Elijah,  687 

Ossipce,  713 

241,  242,  243,  244,  260, 

Kemble,   Fanny,  84,   389, 

Pontoosuc,  385 

631 

39°,  39i 

Profile,  620 

INDEX 


835 


Lake  Quinsigamond,  140 

Littleton,  363 

Maine,  28,  32,  45,  51 

Sabbath  Day,  749 

Common,  422 

winters,  52 

Saint  Catherine,  450 

"Little  Women,"  425 

Mall,  the,  66 

Sebago,  42 

Livermore  Falls,  753 

Malleus  Bay,  272,  273 

Silver,  265 

Livingston,  232 

Mamaroneck,  71 

Simon,  91 

Manor,  225,  243 

Manchester  Center,  213 

Spofford,  337 

Liana  Falls,  265 

N.H.,  607 

Squam,  616 

Lloyds  Neck,  77,  79 

-by-the-Sea,  645 

Sunapee,  721 

Lodge,  Henry  Cabot,  58, 

Vt.,  262 

Willoughby,  738 

630 

Mann,  Horace,    140,    200, 

Winnepesaukee,  613,  712 

Londonderry,  723 

219 

Lakes,  Belgrade,  759 

Longfellow,    H.    W.,    126, 

Manomet,  542 

Lake   Torpedo   Boat   Co., 

145,    250,    252,    384, 

hill,  28 

87,  89 

465,    581,    590,    630, 

Mansfield,  484 

Lakeville,  242 

634,    646,    683,    684, 

Manursing  Island,  72 

Lamentation      Mountain, 

685,    686,    687,     743, 

Map  colors,  64 

26,  108 

745,     765 

M  iple  sugar,  37,  56,  394 

La  Motte,  Sieur  de,  273 

Long  Island,  27,  66 

Maplewood,  364 

Lancaster,  Mass.,  31,  500, 

Longmeadow,     120,     121, 

Marble,  240,  247,  262,  263, 

5°4 

128,  319 

264,  392 

N.H.,  364 

Long,  William,  77 

Marblehead,  633 

Lanesboro,  254 

Lonsdale,  444 

Marion,  438 

Larchmont,  70 

Loomis  Institute,  304 

Market  House,  48 

Manor,  71 

Lovewell,     Captain,     713, 

Marks,  William,  76 

Yacht  Club,  68 

745 

Mark  Twain; 

Larcom,  Lucy,    605,    650, 

Lowell,  59,  604 

See  Twain 

691,  696 

A.  Lawrence,  568 

M.irlboro,  Mass.,  142,  143, 

"Last    of    the    Mohicans, 

Francis  C.,  480,  605 

144,  MS 

The,"  404 

Guy,  50 

N.H.,  597 

Laurel  Hill,  250 

James  Russell,  189,  199, 

Vt.,  706 

Lake,  389 

465 

Marlin  Firearms  Corpora- 

"Laus Deo,"  695,  696 

Ludlow,  98 

tion,  105 

Lava,  107,  223,  526 

Roger,  8  1 

Marshfield,  58,  531 

sheets,  26,  93 

Luneburg,  Duke  of,  421 

Marthas  Vineyard,  27,  28, 

Lawrence,  59,  699 

Lunenburg,  359,  421 

566 

Abbott,  700 

Lyell,  Sir  Charles,  264 

Martineau,    Harriet,    620, 

Laysville,  162 

Lyme,  299 

7i5 

"Leather-stocking  Tales," 

Lyndon  Center,  738 

Marvel,  Ik; 

404 

Lyndonville,  738 

See  Mitchell,  D.  G. 

Lebanon,  Conn.,  366 

Lynn,  40,  41,  42,  149,  630 

Marvin,  John  J.,  2d,  82 

N.H.,  739 

Lynnfield,  40,  625 

Major  Ozias,  82 

Springs,  383 

Lynn  Woods,  42,  474,  631 

Captain  Reynold,  161 

Lee,  392 

Lyon,  Mary,  22,  322,  399 

"Mary      had      a      Little 

Le  Gallienne,  Richard,  79 

Lamb,"  721 

Leicester,  135 

Mabie,  Hamilton  W.,  227, 

M  iscoma  valley,  739 

Academy,  136 

393 

Mashpee,  33,  568 

Lemington,  360 

MacAdam,  John,  71 

Mason,  Captain  John,  83, 

Lenox,  388 

Macadam  roads,  44 

161,    169,    371,    612, 

Leominster,  376 

Macdonough,  Commodore, 

671.  675 

Lewiston,  757 

268,  295 

Lowell,  497 

Lexington,  Mass.,  41,  141, 

MacDowell,  E.,  379 

Dr.  William,  497 

427-430 

Memorial  As.,  379 

Massachusetts,  26,  27,  28, 

'Lexington  of  the  Sea,'  780 

Machias,  780 

29,  32,  45,  Si,  55.  57, 

Leyden  Gorge,  319 

MacKaye,  Percy,  348,  349, 

58,  59,  64,  65,  116 

Lincoln,  Abraham,  117,  527 

351,  352 

Bay  Colony,  67 

Mrs.  Abraham,  262 

Macy,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  John, 

color  markings,  65 

family,  524,  527 

196 

culture,  57 

Frederic  W..  74 

McCall,  Samuel  W.,  365, 

'     "  Emancipation     of, 

Joseph,  816 
Mordecai,  527 

604 
Mclndoes  Falls,  358 

58 
Inst.  Tech.,  504 

Robert  T.,  261 

Mclntire,  Samuel,  49,  638 

Revolutionary       move- 

Lind, Jenny,  87,  313,  314, 

McKim,  Charles,  250,  467 

ments,  58 

39° 

Mead  &  White,  185,  330, 

Massasoit,  439,  542 

Lisbon  Falls,  Me.,  783 

349,  456 

Mastodon,  29,  142 

Litchfield,  Conn.,  276 

McKinley,  President,  121 

Mattabesett  Indians,  in 

Litchfield    Co.    Choral 

Madison,  Conn.,  153,  154 

Mather,  Cotton,  169,  610, 

Union,  286 

President,  194,  386 

642 

Little  Boar's  Head,  665 

Magnolia,  645 

Increase,  461 

Compton,  583 

Maidstone,  359 

Mattapan,  518,  572 

836 


INDEX 


Mattapoisett,  437 

Minot's  Light,  526 

Mt.  Philo,  268 

Mattawamkeag,  788 

Mitchell,   Donald   G.,   'Ik 

Pisgah,  970 

Matunuck,  R.I.,  173 

Marvel,'  94,  372 

Riga,  243,  245 

"Mayflower,"  32,  52,  458, 

Mitchelson    numismatic 

Tom,  26,  27,  125,  290 

536,    S39,    54°,    S4i, 

collection,  114 

Wachusett,  25,  503 

556 

Mohammedan  influence,  50 

Washington,  Ft.  ,622,  716 

Mayhew,  Stella,  68 

Mohawks,  302,  406,  411 

Wollaston,  522 

Maxim,    Sir   Hiram,    117, 

Mohawk  Trail,  25,  29,  43, 

Muddy  River,  40,  475 

420 

401,  406,  410,  411 

Muldoon's  Hygienic  Insti- 

Mead, Larkin  G.,  331,  733 

Ford,  411 

tute,  204 

Medfield,  496 

valley,  24 

Mullens,  Priscilla,  546 

Medford,  149,  482,  600 

Mohicans,  33,  406 

Mundy,  Richard,  48 

Meeting  houses,  earliest,  48 

Monhegan  Island,  Me.,  52 

Munitions,    war,    61,    87, 

Megansett,  564 

"Monitor,"  402,  411 

i°5,  117,  343,  722 

Mellen,  Charles  S.,  251 

Monadnock,  Mt.,  25 

Munsey,  Frank,  165 

Judge,  147 

Monomoy,  571 

Munson,  John,  44 

Melrose,  482 

Monroe,  President,  195 

Music,  23,  287,  379,  452 

Melville,    Hermann,    252, 

Montague,  328 

Myopia  Hunt   Club,  602, 

387 

Montgomery,  General,  274 

652 

Village,  616 

Fort,  N.Y.,  274 

Mystic,  Conn.,  83,  169 

Memphremagog; 

Montowse,  106 

Lakes,  508,  602 

See  Lake 

Montpelier,  732 

River,  Conn.,  169 

Mendon,  134,  494 

Montreal,  Canada,  274 

Mercer,  740 

Monument  Beach,  564 

Nahint,  58,  629,  630 

Meredith,  616 

Mountain,  248,  249,  251 

Nantucket,  27,  28,  41 

Meriden,  Conn.,  26,  108 

Moodus,  Conn.,  300 

Napitree  Beach,  R.I.,  172 

N.H.,  353 

river,  730 

Naples,  744 

Merriam,  Charles,  93,  133 

Moody,    Dwight   L.,   329. 

Narmgansett  Bay,  27.  28, 

George,  93,  133 

33  S 

3i,  33,  59,  60,  583 

Merrick  Park,  2ia 

Mooseheid  Lak?,  786 

Pier,  176 

Merrimack  River,  613,  700 

"Mosses     from     an     Old 

Narragansi;tts,  173 

valley,  26 

Manse,"  424 

Nashaway  Indians,  500 

Merrymount,  522 

Moosup,  171 

Nashua,  606 

Mesozoic,  28,  29 

Moraine,  27,  174 

River,  419 

Methodist  Church,  72 

Morey,  Captain,  356 

Valley,  500 

Methuen,  699 

Morgan  Art  Gallery,  1  13 

Nass'iu,  382 

Miantonomoh,  182 

horse,  the,  56,  264,  267, 

Natick,  489 

Mianus  River,  75,  76 

729 

Naugatuck,  279-281 

Middleboro,  432,  560 

Morgan,  J.  Pierpont,  113, 

Valley,  25 

Middlebury,  266 

593                                       Nausites,  33 

College,  266 

Sergeant  Miles,  122          !  Navy,  American,  601,  183, 

Falls,  64a 

Morrisania,  66 

633 

Middlesex  Fells,  149,  482 

Morse,  Jedediah,  62,  461, 

Navy,"    "Father     of    the 

Middle  States,  6 

407 

American,  483 

Middleton,  693 

S.  F.  B.,  461 

Navy   Yard,   Portsmouth, 

Middletown,  26,  in,  290, 

Morton,  Thomas,  34,  522 

671 

294 

Mother  Ann  Lee,  383,  499 

Nearing,  Scott,  22,  473 

Milford,  Conn.,  90,  91,  94, 

Brook,  200 

Needham,  498 

103,  276 

Motley,     John      Lothrop, 

Negroes,  34,  35 

Mass.,  219,  494 

200,  684 

Neponset  River,  573 

N.H.,  704 

Moultonboro,  713 

Neutral  Ground,  The,  71, 

Mill,  the  Old  Town,  New 

Mt.  Agamenticus,  478 

238 

London,  163 

Anthony,  257 

New  Bedford,  435 

Millbank,  74 

Ascutney,  342 

New  Britain,  210 

Millbrook,  231 

Auburn,  497 

Newbury,  Mass.,  6s6 

Miller  Park,  379,  704 

Carmel,  26,  107 

Vt.,357 

Millers  Falls,  416 

Desert,  52,  776 

Newburyport,  40,  658 

Millers  River,  25,  415,  416 

Everett,  25,  245,  247 

New  C'anaan,  77,  78 

Millis,  496 

Hcrmon  School,  329 

New  Castle,  N.H.,  666 

Mill  Plain,  Conn.,  206 

Holyoke,    27,    125,    290, 

Newcistle,  Me.,  769 

Milton,  477,  517,  712 

327 

New  Connecticut,  55 

Minerals,  303 

Holyoke  Seminary,  322 

New  England,  28,  29 

Mines,  coal,  584 

Hope  Bay,  579 

town-meeting,  42 

cobalt,  301 

Kearsarpre,  15 

village,  40 

copper,  298 

Kineo,  787 

winters,  47 

iron,  239 

Kisco,  238 

New  Englander,  the,  36 

lead,  301 

Mansfield,  734 

Newfane,  449 

Tilly  Foster,  239 

Monadnock,     25,     378, 

New   Hampshire,   32,    45, 

Mink  Brook,  88  b 

597.   705 

53,  55,  04 

INDEX 


837 


New    Hampshire    '  Forest 

Norton  Company,  The,  137 

Otter  Creek,  264 

Reserve,'  54 

Norumbega,  149 

Oxford,  Mass.,  375 

farmers,  55 

Tower,  148 

Oyster  Bay,  72,  86 

summer  resort  business, 

Norwalk,  80,  81,  82 

Oyster  industry,  62,  89,  QI 

55 

Iron  Works  Company,  8  1 

New  Hartford,  287 

Norway,  750 

Packard,    Rev.    Asa,    143, 

New  Haven,  26,  31,  37,  44, 

Norwich,  Conn.,  21,  370 

144 

65,66,92,94-106,  153 

Vt.,  355 

Paine,  Thomas,  69,  70,  261, 

New  Lebanon,  382 

Norwood,  197 

577 

New  London,  Conn.,  165 

Notch 

house,  'Tom,'  69,  70 

N.H.,  720 

Dixville,  718,  751 

Paleozoic,  28,  29 

Turnpike  Co.,  44 

Franconia,  619,  620 

Palisades,  The,  223 

New  Milford,  276,  288 

Nott,  John,  248,  723 

Palladio,  48,  49 

Newport,  Me.,  760 

Nouveaux-riches,  49 

Palmer,  A.  M.,  78,  131,  132 

N.H.,352,  721 

Noyes,  Rev.  Moses,  162 

Alice  Freeman,  487,  515 

R.I.,  59,  60,  136,  585 
State  House,  48 

Judge  Walter,  162 
House,  William,  162 

George  Herbert,  39,  468, 
515 

Vt.,  737 

Nurse,  Rebecca,  691 

Mass.,  131 

New  Preston,  276 

Nutting,  Wallace,  296,491, 

Paper-making,    197,    311, 

New  Republic,  The,  8gb 

660,  669,  698 

395ff,   397,    5>8,    7°i, 

New  Rochelle,  65,  66,  67, 

740 

68,  69,  71 

Oak,  Avery,  200 

Paris,  751 

Yacht  Club,  68 

Beaman,  502 

Parker,  Captain  John,  427, 

Newton  Lower  Falls,  479, 

Oakland  Beach,  72 

428 

485 

Oaks,  31,  502 

Theodore,  429,  705 

Newtown,  208 

Waverley,  31 

Parkman,  Francis,  476,  597 

New  York,  55,  66,  274 

Oaksmere,  71 

Parley,'  'Peter,  275 

Athletic  Club,  67 

Ockocanganset  Hill,  28a 

Parley's  chair,  Peter,  84 

Niantic,  161 

October  Mountain,  387 

Parris,  Rev.  Samuel,  691 

Nobleboro,  769 

Ogunquit,  676 

Parrish,  Maxfield,  348,352 

Nolen,  John,  88 

Ohio  Company,  the,  447, 

Parsons,  John  E.,  251 

Nooseneck  Hill,  R.I.,  171 

459 

Pasquaney,  720 

Nordica,  Lillian,  754 

Old  Bay  Path,  65 

Pataguanset  River,  161 

Norfolk,  287 

Old  Boston  Post  Road,  65, 

Path 

Norfolk  Hunt  Club,  498 

66,  68 

Colonial  Bridle,  43 

Noroton,  79 

'Old  Connecticut  Path,'  43 

Hadley,  43 

Norridgewock,  741 

Old  Deerfield,  Mass.,  317, 

Old  Bay,  65 

Norsemen,  148,  555,  590, 

414 

Old  Conn.,  43 

762 

"Old  Grimes  is  dead,"  142 

Pequot,  150 

North  Acton,  422 

Old  Hadley,  Mass.,    323 

Pattaquamscot    Purchase 

Northampton,  261 

Oldham,  John,  43,  61,  127, 

174 

North  Andover,  511 

297 

Pawlet,  450 

North  Anson,  756 

John.  480 

Pawling,  239 

North  Attleboro,  195 

Old  Lyme,  159 

Pawtucket,  R.I.,  194,  431 

Northboro,  142 

Old  Mill  Green,  8a,  88 

Peabody,  514 

Northbridge,  445 

"Old  Oaken  Bucket,"  529 

George,    21,   355,    514, 

North  Conway,  715 

Old  Orchard,  681 

639,  691 

North  Dartmouth,  435 

Old  Saybrook,  156 

Museum,  100,  469 

Northeast  Harbor,  778 

Old  Town,  788 

Peacedale,  R.I.,  175 

North  Easton,  574 

Mill,  163 

p?ach-growing,  302 

.North  Edsecomb,  768 

Olde  Lyme  Street,  162 

Peary,  Rear-admiral  R.  E. 

North  Falmouth,  565 

Olmsted,    Frederick   Law, 

384,  687,  746 

Northfield,  335 

40,  117,  190,  406 

Pease,  John,  140 

Northford,  iio-m 

Olmsteds,  the,  275,  474 

Levi,  44,  141 

North  Franklin,  366 

Olney,  Richard,  565 

Peddlers,  61,  no 

Hampstead  Turnpike,  66 

Oneida  Indians,  120 

Peekskill,  229 

Haven,  107 

Onset,  561 

Pelham  Ave.,  66 

Hero,  273 

Optic,  Oliver,  496 

Bay,  67 

Pownal,  273 

Orange,  25,  416 

Bay  Park,  67 

Raynham,  575 

Orford,  362 

Manor,  67,  70 

Salem,  N.Y.,  206 

Orienta  Point,  71 

Parkway,  65,  66,  67 

Scituate,  527 

Orleans,  550 

Pell,  John,  70 

Stamford,  77 

Orono,  33,  788 

mansion,  67 

Northumberland,  365 

Oronoque,  89 

Thomas,  67 

'North  Way,'  74 

O.4)orn  Hill,  85 

Pell's  Point,  67 

North  Wilbraham,  131 

Osborne.ThomasMott,  228 

Pemaquid,  769 

North  Windham,  Me.,  742 

Ossining,  229 

Pemigewasset,  619 

North  Woodstock,  618 

Oisipee,  712 

Pemigewasset  River,  619 

Norton,  484 

Osterville,  568 

Penacook,  721 

INDEX 


Peneplain,  25,  412 

Pitt,  William,  264,  386 

Prospect,  773 

Penobscot  River,  51,  761 

Pittsfield,  126,  383 

Proterozoic,  29 

Pepperell,  Sir  William,  672, 

Pittsford,  Vt.,  264 

Providence  Athenaeum,  188 

68  1 

Plainfield,  Conn.,  373 

R.I.,  59,  64,  181-193 

Pequonnock  river,  88,  89 

N.H.,352 

"Providence  Plantations," 

Pequot  Hill,  169 

Plainville,  210 

59 

Library,  83 

Plant,  Morton  F.,  162,  164, 

Provincetown,  554 

Path,  150 

1  68 

Psychozoic,  29 

Point,  164 

Platt,  Charles  A.,  348,  350 

Puritan,"  "The,  124 

Poultry  Farm,  83 

Plattsburg,  N.Y.,  273,  295 

Puritans,  21,  34,  42,  58,  97, 

Trail,  Old,  177,  180 

Battle  of,  268,  273 

98,  116,  173,  300 

War,  34,  291,  453,  480 

Pleasantville,  237 

Putnam,  Conn.,  216 

Pequots,   the,  33,  83,  97, 

Plum  Island,  657 

Cottage,  75 

152,  169,  180,  296,  298 

Plymouth  Company,   the, 

Hill  Park,  75 

Percy,  Earl,  427-429 

3°6,  774 

Israel,  75,  114,  216,  692 

Perkins  Institution,  50,  149 

Harbor,  61 

Rufus,  134,  446,  447 

Perry,  Matthew  Gilbraith, 

Mass.,  28,  32,  48,  537 

Putn  .m's  Leap,  75 

6°,  173,  590 

Meadows,  304 

Putney,  332 

Oliver  Hazard,  60,  173, 

N.H.,6i7 

Heights,  90 

186,  588 

Rock,  52,  539 

Pynchon,  Major  John,  128, 

Perryville,  173,  174 

Plympton,  433 

3i4 

Peru,  Mass.,  397 

Pocumtucks,  411 

William,   120,  126,  127, 

Vt.,  724 

Podunk  river,  119 

128,  290 

Peterboro,  378 

Podunks,  118,  296 

Peters,  Hugh,  34 

Poe  Cottage,  66,  235 

Quaboag  Pond,  134 

History  of  Conn.,  298 

Edgar  Allan,  66,  188 

Quaboags,  132 

Petersham,  447 

Park,  66,  235 

Quakers,  persecution  of,  58, 

Pewter,  108 

Poet's  Seat,  319 

78,  116,  161,  178,  179, 

Phelps,  Anson  G.,  280 

Point  Judith,  27,  173,  176, 

240,  454,642,695,  710 

Edward  J.,  266,  735 

177 

Quamquisset,  566 

Elizabeth  Stuart,  133,511 

Poland  Spring,  749 

"Quaneh-ta-cut  river,"  61 

William  L.,  104 

Poli,  Mr.,  lob 

Queechee,  726 

Philip,  King,  134,  139,  196, 

Pomfret,  28,  215 

Quincy,  520 

317,    33S,    431,    432, 

Ponkapog,  573 

Dorothy,  85,    277,  428, 

484,  502 

Population    of    N.E.,    22, 

429,  520,  666 

Philip's   War,    King,    128, 

254,  205 

Quinsigamond,  Lake,  140 

146,    195,    201,    310,'  Pootatuc  Yacht  Club,  QO 

Quoddy  Head,  51,  73 

317,    396,    419,    524, 

Port  Chester,  N.Y.,  72 

578 

Jefferson,  66 

Race  Rock  lighthouse,  165 

chair,  King,  317 

Porter,  H^iss  Charlotte,  324 

Radcliffe,  Anne,  463 

Philipse,    Frederick,    222, 

Noah,  212 

College,  463 

224,  225 

Porter's  School,  Miss,  211, 

Rafe's  Chasm,  646 

Manor,    224,    226,    227, 

212 

Randolph,  Me.,  751 

228 

Portland,  26,  40,  682 

Mass.,  62,  558 

Phillips      Academy,      An- 

Conn.,  302 

Rangeley,  754 

dover,  511,  703 

Portsmouth,  40,  666 

Rattlesnakes,  289 

Academy,    Exeter,    702, 

Portuguese,  32,  555,  564 

Ravonah  Manor,  77 

7°3 

Post  Road,  65,  73,  74,  75, 

Raybestos  brake-linings.  89 

Beach,  632 

80,  82,  88,  90 

Raymond,  Me.,  743 

Phips,  Sir    William,    767. 

potato  clubs,  53 

N.H.,  703 

769 

crop,  53 

Reading,  510 

"Pickle  for  the   Knowing 

Poughkeepsie,  21,  230 

Redding  Ridge,  275 

Ones,"  662 

Poultney,  450 

"Redeemed  Captive,The," 

Pierce,  Sarah,  22 

Pownal,  405 

319 

Pierpont,  Rev.  James,  96 

Pratt,  Bel;i,  457,  639 

Redfield,  William  C.,  295 

Pierrot,  Peter,  90 

Preble,     Commodore    Ed-  ,  Red  Hook,  232 

Pierson,  Abraham,  103,1,1; 

ward,  683 

Red  Lion  Inn,  250 

Pike,  N.H.,  362 

"Precaution,"  71 

Red  Rocks,  269 

Pilgrims,  32,  42,  61,  537, 

Presidential     Range,     55, 

Reed,    Thomas    Brackett, 

554,  556 

622,  748 

686 

Pillory,  116 

Prides  Crossing,  644 

Reeve,  Judge  Tapping,  85, 

Pine,  white,  32 

Princeton,  502 

277,  298 

Pines,  Carlisle,  506 

Pring.  Martin,  33,  670 

Regicides,  The,  92,  98,  108, 

Pinkham  Notch,  624 

Printing,  197 

324 

Pin  Mfg.,  280 

Proctor,  264 

See  Goffe,  Wrhalley  and 

Pisgah  forest,  32,  337 

Senator  Redfield,  264 

Dixwell 

Pitcairn,  Major,  423,  427, 

Proctorsville,  597 

Rehoboth,   170,   195,  431, 

428,  460 

Profile  Notch,  55,  620 

434 

Pitcher,  Moll,  631,  636 

The,  620 

Reid,  Whitelaw   205 

839 


Remington    Arms  -  Union 

Rowley,  656 

Savin  Rock,  93 

Metallic    Cartridge 

Roxbury,  127,  448,  454 

Saw  Pit  Landing,  72 

Co.,  87,  88,  89 

Royal  James  Inn,  80 

Saxtons  River,  334 

Frederick,  6g 

Royall,  Isaac,  600 

Saybrook,  26,  156 

Rensselaer,  381,  407 

House,  48,  600 

Old,  156 

Polytechnic    Institute, 

Rubber  industry,  61,  105 

Saye  and  Sele,  Lord,  158, 

402 

Rublee,  George,  350 

306 

Revere,  Paul,  68,  120,  147, 

Rum  and  niggers,  35,  70 

Scarboro,  681 

148,    202,    427,    458, 

Rumford,  Count; 

Scarsdale,  235 

461,  775 

See  Thompson,  Benja- 

Schaghticoke, 403 

Beach,  628 

min 

Schodack     Center,      233, 

Revolution,    The,    67,    71, 

Rumsey  Hall  School,  289 

382 

7Q,  98,  108,  155,  165, 

Russell,  Mass.,  395 

Schurz,  Carl,  227 

179,     205,     223,     226, 

Rutland,  Mass.,  446 

Schuylerville,  725 

260,     271,    423,    430, 

Vt.,  263 

Scituate,  28,  529 

440,     511,    565,     582, 

Rye,  Conn.,  66,  71 

Scott,  Sir  Walter,  226 

587,    643,    662 

Beach,  Conn.,  72 

Seabrook,  663 

Rhinebeck,  231 

Beach,  N.H.,  665 

Sea  Cliff,  66 

Rhode  Island,  25,  27,  28, 

Port,  72 

"Sea  Flower,"  35 

35,45,49,59,60,61,64 

Seminary,  72 

Seal  Harbor,  778 

area,  59 

Sealshipt  Oyster  Co.,  91 

eighteenth-century    life, 

Sabbath  Day  Lake,  749 

Searsburg,  706 

60 

Sachem's  Head,  152 

Searsport,  773 

founded,  59 

Saco,  680 

Seaside  Park,  87,  88 

political  affairs,  60 

river,  39,  715,  745 

Sebago  Lake,  742 

School  of  Design,  188 

Sagadahoc  river,  52 

Sedgwick  family,  the,  250, 

size,  59 

Sagamore,  544 

390,  409 

triangular  trade,  60 

Sage,  Mrs.     Russell,    335, 

Seekonk,  431,  434 

See  Providence 

402 

Sergeant,  John,  251,  252 

Richardson,  Henry  H.,  50, 

Sag  Harbor,  152 

Seton,   Ernest  Thompson, 

122,    123,    125,    164, 

St.  Aspenquid,  673 

75 

27°,  457,  468,  574 

St.  Gabriel's  Church,  68 

Sewall,  Judge  Samuel,  174, 

Riis,  Jacob,  447 

Saint-Gaudens,   Augustus, 

458,  656 

Rindge,  F.  H.,  463 

123,    124,    286,    348, 

Seymour,  280 

Ringling  Brothers,  86,  87 

349,  457 

Shakers,  382,  383,  393,  499, 

Rippowam  river,  77 
Riverside,  75 

Homer,  350 
Louis,  250,  348,  350,  353, 

739.,  749 
Shaler,N.S.,28,  31,  36,45, 

Recreation  Ground,  148 

457 

655 

Roads,  43,  162,  543 

St.  John,  Peter,  79 

Sharon,  Conn.,  241 

Rochambeau,     113,     117, 

St.  Johnsbury,  731 

Mass.,  202 

209,  226,  236,  587 

St.  John's  College,  66 

Vt.,  729 

Rochelle,  68 

St.  Lawrence  valley,  24 

Shaw,  Francis,  147 

Rochester,  711 

St.  Mark's  School,  491 

Lucretia,  163 

Rock  Dunder,  270 

Sakonnet  Point,  583 

Shawmut,  444,  453 

"  Rocked  in  the  Cradle  of 

Salem,  40,  41,  116,  120,  128 

Shays'  Rebellion,  58,  125, 

the  Deep,"  109 

merchants,  35 

129,  140,  142,  252,316, 

Rockefeller,  22 

Salisbury  Beach,  663 

576 

John  D.,  226,  227 

Conn.,  243 

Sheffield,  247 

Percy  A.,  74 

Mass.,  694 

Scientific  School,  101 

William,  74,  227 

Stephen,  138 

Shelburne  Falls,  413 

Rockland,  770 

Vt.,  265 

Me.,  751 

Rockport,  771 

Salmon  Falls,  N.H.,  711 

Vt.,  269 

Rockridge,  74 

Saltonstall,  Richard,  453, 

Sheldon,  George,,  319 

Rockwell,  Solomon,  6gb 

698 

John,  319 

Rocky  Hill,  296 

Salt  works,  89,  545,  548 

Shell   heaps,   Indian,   180, 

Roger  Williams  Park,  181, 

Samoset,  769 

769 

192 

Sanborn,  Frank  B.,  426 

Shelton,  279 

Rogers,  H.  H.,  437 

Kate,  219 

Sherborn,  497 

Hall  School,  604,  800 

"Sanctuary,"  353 

Sherburne,  727 

Lake,  162,  299 

sandstone,  26 

Sherman,  General,  66 

Roosevelt,  Theodore,  99 

Sandwich,  543 

Roger  M.,  85,  97 

Rosemary  Hall,  74,  75 

Saracenic  architecture,  50 

Shipbuilding,  52,  453,  523, 

Roton  Point,  81 

"Saratoga,"  the,  268 

670,  696,  767 

Round  Hill,  74,  85 

Sargent,  John  S.,  456 

Shippan  Point,  77 

Rouse's  Point,  274 

Sargentville,  775 

Shirley  Gut,  38,  629 

Routes,  64 

Saugatuck  River,  82 

Shoddy,  196,  723 

Rowayton,  80 

Saugus,  149,  482 

Shoemaking,  219,630,631, 

Rowlandson,     Mrs.,     448, 

Saunderstown,  177 

652 

5°2,  s°3 

Savin,  32 

Shoonhoven  Park,  86 

840 


INDEX 


Shrewsbury,  140,  141,  142 

Spot  Pond,  Mass.,  481 

Sullivan,  John  I,.,  483 

Signal  Station,  85,  265 

'Springfield        Gileadites,' 

Summer  visitors,  22 

Silk,  213,  215,  367,  400 

129 

Sunapee,  721 

Silkworm  culture,  108,  213 

Mass.,  121,  130 

Sunnyside,  226 

Sill,  Edward,  304,  305 

Plain,  130 

Sun  Tavern,  80 

Silurian,  29 

Vt.,  722 

Surriage,  Agnes,  461,  636 

Sing    Sing    State    Prison, 

Spuyten     Duyvil     Creek 

Swampscott,  632 

228,  240 

N.Y.,  223 

Swansea,  434 

Skowhegan,  756,  784 

"Spy,"  the,  70,    71,    207, 

'  Switzerland  of  America,' 

Sky  Falls,  256 

229,  236 

55 

Meadows,  77 

Squam  Lake,  616 

Slater,   Mrs.   Horatio   N., 

Squanto,  34,  522 

Table  of  Contents,  64 

375 

Squantum,  522 

Taconic  Mountains,  27,  28 

John  F.,  21 

Stafford  Springs,  367 

Taft,  William  H.,  95,  104, 

Memorial  Park,  194 

Stage-drivers,  417 

445,  636 

mill,  194,  195 

Stamford,  66,  71,  76,  84 

Talcott  Mountain,  116 

Samuel,  194 

Standish,  Miles,  453,  522, 

Talleyrand,  460,  465 

Slavery,  34,  173,  175,  261, 

535,    538,    545,     556, 

Tallmadge,  Major   Benja- 

266, 453,  550,  587 

559,  560,  563 

min,  77 

Slave  trade,  35,  441,  587 

Monument,  535 

Tarratine     Indians,     762, 

Sleepy  Hollow   Cemetery, 

Stanley,  Dean,  sgb 

77°,  774,  775 

227 

Stark,  General,    258,    260, 

Tarrytown,  226 

Smibert,  John,  48 

340,  607 

Taunton,  432,  576 

Smith,  73 

General  John,  258,  607 

Taverns,  Colonial,  44,  72, 

College,  313 

Starr  King; 

80,  84,    91,  107,  113, 

F.  Hopkinson,  165 

See  King,  Starr 

135,     143,    144,    J47, 

G.  W.  V.  Collection,  124 

State    Highway    Commis- 

215, 460 

Harry  Worcester,     139, 

sions,  64 

Taylor,  James  P.,  17,  57, 

493 

Trunk  Highways,  45 

334 

Captain    John,    33,    52, 

Steamboats,  early; 

Bayard,  664,  74* 

453,    630,    647,    670, 

See  Fitch,  119 

Tea  Party,  Boston,  459 

678 

Fulton 

Templeton,  418 

Jonathan,  255 
Joseph,  58,  515 

Wells  River,  357 
Stedman,  Edmund  C.,  315, 

Tertiary,  29 
Tewksbury,  603 

Oliver,  316 

371,  666 

Texas,  55 

Sophia,  313,  316 

Sterling,  376,  502 

Textile  mfg.,  23 

"Snowbound,"  695,  697 

Steuben,  Baron,  229 

Thacher  family,  the,  547, 

Soap,  Packer's  Tar,  170 

Stillwater,  78 

648 

Somers,  239 

Slimson,  F.  J.,  199 

Island,  648 

Somerset,  579 

Stockbridge,  249 

Thames  River,  163 

Somersworth,  711 

Bowl,  251,  388 

"The  Barefoot  Boy,"  697 

Somerville,  509 

Stokes,  Anson  Phelps,  96 

"The  House  of  the  Seven 

Sons  of  American  Revolu- 

estate, 75,  388 

Gables,"  390 

tion,  65 

Isaac  Phelps,  74 

"The  Last  of  the   Mohi- 

"Sons of  Liberty,"  199,347 

Stoneham,  140,  482,  510 

cans,"  404 

Sound,  the,  26,  65,  75,  81 

Stonington,  Conn.,  170 

"The  melancholy  days  are 

Beach,  75 

Stony  Brook,  148 

come,"  248 

Southboro,  491 

Story,  Ann,  265 

"The    Pearl  of   Orr's  Isl- 

Southbridge, 368 

Stoughton,  574 

and,"  687 

Southbury,  208 

Stowe,      Mrs.     Harriet 

"The  Raven,"  66 

South  Easton,  575 

Beecher,  115,153,  249, 

"The  Real  Diary  of  a  Real 

South  Egremont,  245 

278,    486,    489,    687, 

Boy,"  703 

South  Hadley,  322 

765 

"The  Redeemed  Captive," 

South  Hero,  Vt.,  273 

Stratfield,  89 

319 

Southington,  210 

Stratford,  89,  279 

"The    Simple   Cobbler   of 

South  Natick,  488 

Hollow,  365 

Agawam,"  655 

South  Norwalk,  80 

Stratton,  755 

"The  Virginian,"  257 

South  Paris,  750 

Strawberry  Bank,  671 

"The  Wide,  Wide  World," 

Southport,  83 

Hill,  77 

39° 

South  Shaftsbury,  261 

Straw-weaving,  196 

"The  Wonder  Book,"  390 

South  Sudbury,  145,  146 

Stuart,  Gilbert,  138,   177, 

Thespians,  68 

South  Weymouth,  28,  483 

186,  457,  590 

Thetford,  355 

South  Williamstown,  256 

Sturbridge,  368 

Thimble  Is.,  151 

South  Windsor,  119 

Submarines,  87,  91 

Thomas,  Seth,  281 

Spencer,  Mass.,  134-135 

Sudbury,  38,  505 

Thomaston.  Conn.,  281 

Split  Rock,  268 

Suffield,  307 

Me.,  770 

Rock  Road,  67 

Suffolk,  83,  307 

Thompson,  374 

Spofford,  Harriet  Prescott, 

Resolves,  the,  198 

Benjamin,  458,  603,  609 

694 

Sugar  Hill,  621 

Orrin,  120 

INDEX 


841 


Thompsonville,  120 

Turner,  Captain,  77,  205 

Wabanaki,  75 

Thoreau,  38,  410,  424,  426, 

Turners  Falls,  26,  291 

Wachusett  Reservoir,  376, 

,      549,  SSL  57i 

Turnpikes,  40,  44,  73,  222. 

504 

Throg's  Neck,  67 

280,  369,  625 

Mt.,  419 

Thrushwood,  75 

Turret  lathes,  342,  343,  722 

Waconah  Falls,  397 

Thumb,  General  Tom,  87, 

Twain,    Mark,    114,    115, 

Wakefield,  514 

560 

275,  393.  465 

N.H.,  712 

Tichenor,  Isaac,  6ib 

Tweed,  Boss,  74 

R.I.,  175 

Ticknor,  George,  361 

Twin  Mountain,  621 

Walcott  family,  128 

Ticonderoga,  55,  287,  308, 

Tyngsboro,  606 

Walden  Pond,  426 

450,  462 

Tyringham,  393 

Waldstein,  86 

Tilden,  Samuel  J.,  224,  382 

Waldoboro,  769 

Tilton,  612 

Umbrella  Point,  71 

Wales,  368 

Edward  L.,  124 

Uncas,  Mohegan  Sachem, 

Wallingford,    Conn.,    107, 

"Timothy    Titcomb 

152,169,370,371,372. 

1  08 

Papers,"  i2Q 

405 

Vt.,  263 

Titicus  Mountain,  206 

Uncasville,  370 

Walloomsac  Inn,  258 

Tiverton,  582 

'Underground      Railway,' 

Walpole,  196 

Tobacco,  62,  118,  212,  307 

129,  237,  238,  406,  420 

N.H.,  338 

Topsfield,  515 

Underbill,    Captain   John, 

Waltham,  43,  149,  479 

River,  39 

76,  205 

Walton's  Register  of  Vt., 

Tories,  72,  70,  86,  405 

Unitarian  Church,  6$b 

56 

Torre  del  Mangia,   Siena, 

U.S.   Arsenal,   Springfield, 

Wampanaw,  78 

209 

125 

Wampum,  34,  180,  211 

Torrington,  Conn.,  282 

Arsenal,  Watertown,  149 

Wannalancet,  605 

Torture,  317,  319,  449,  710 

Naval      Station,      New 

Wappingers  Falls,  230 

Totoket  Mountain,  m 

London,  163 

Waquoit,  567 

Townsend,  507 

Revenue-Cutter  Service 

War  of  1812,688 

Townshend,  447 

School,  164 

See  Civil,  Revolution, 

Toy  manufacturing,  596 

Rubber  Company,  106 

etc. 

"Toy-town''; 

'Ship  Canal,  223 

Waramaug,  276 

S^e  Winchendon 

University  Hall,  49 

Ward,  Colonel  Andrew,  153 

Conn.,  43 

Untermeyer,  Samuel,  224 

Ganeral  Andrew,  153 

Indian,  43,  65,  73,  127, 
222,  248 
Trail,  Old  Pequot,  180 

Uxbndge,  445 
Vail,  Theodore,  56 

142 
Artemus,  744 

Vermont's    Long,     259, 

'Valley  Villages,'  the,  166 

J.  Q.  A.,  271 

263 

Van  Buren,  President,  233 

Wareham,  561 

"Tramp,   tramp,    tramp," 

Van  Cortlindt  manor,  239 

Warner  Brothers,  89 

247 

mansion,  the,  202 

Charles  Dudley,  115,413 

"Travels    in     New    Eng- 

Park, 203 

Susan,  390 

land,"  117 

Vanderbilt,    Mrs.    Alfred, 

Warren,  Dr.  Joseph,  460 

Treat,  Governor  Robert,  91 

389  . 

Lavinia,  87 

Trees,  31 

Cornelius,  2d,  101,  115 

Me.,  770 

Triassic,  29,  290,  302 

Frederick  B.,  101 

Mass.,  132,  133 

sandstones,  305 

F.  W.,  231 

R.I.,  439 

trap,  323 

Hall,  100 

Russell,  49,  440 

Trinity  College,  114,   115, 

William  K.,  592 

Thief  -  Catching      Soci- 

299 

Vane,  Sir  Harry,  456,  472 

ety,"  "The,  132 

Trowbridge,  John  T.,  480, 

Van  Tassel,  Cornelius,  236 

Warville,  Brissot  de; 

678 

Vassall,  Colonel  Henry,  463 

See  de  Warville 

Troy,  402 

John,  465 

Warwick,  Earl  of,  157,  180, 

Trumbull,  85 

Leonard,  520 

448 

Gallery,  100 

Vassar  College,  230 

Mass.,  448 

Governor,  301 

Verazzano,  31,  33,  59,  73, 

R.I.,  180 

Colonel  John,  100,  117, 

622 

Washburn,   Ichabod,   137, 

155,  366 

Vergennes,  267 

139 

Jonathan,  366 

Vermont,  31,  45,  51,  55,  56, 

Washington,    George,    47, 

Truro,  552 

344 

65,  67,  72,  82,  84,  91, 

Tryon,  81,  82 

Academy,  56,  334 

108,     in,    117,    122, 

Governor  William,  207 

dairy  industry,  56 

131,     132,    133,    134, 

Tryon's  raiders,  75,  83,  207 

marble,  124 

136,    137,    143,    144, 

Tuftonboro,  615 

Republican  Party,  56 

145,     147,     162,     163, 

Tufts  College,  601 

State  Seal,  261 

188,    189,     195,    199, 

College   Summer   Labo- 

State Fair,  345 

203,    204,    205,     224, 

ratory,  688 

"Vermont,"  the,  272 

225,    236,    238,    240, 

Nathan,  601 

Vernon,  329 

296,    298,    305,    366, 

Park,  509 

Verplanck's  Point,  228,  229 

381,    392,     405,    463, 

Tumbledown  Brook,  116 

Volcanoes,  26,  107 

465,    476,    563,    641, 

842 


INDEX 


Washington,  George, 

Westfield,  395 

Wilkins,  Mary  E.,  558 

66b,    669,    698,    699, 

West  Haven,  93,  98 

Willard,  Emma  Hart,   22, 

702,     703 

West  India  trade,  35,  81, 

109 

Washington,  Mt.,  623,  716 

165,     291,    3°6,     533, 

Williams,  Betsy,  181,  192 

"Washington  Route,"  65 

587,642 

College,  256,  406,  408 

Watch  Hill,  R.I.,  171,  172 

West  Lebanon,  354,  360 

Eleazar,  120 

Waterbury,  Conn.,  25,  208 

Westminster,  Mass.,  419 

Ephraim,  251,  408,  412 

Vt.,  734 

Vt.,332 

Eunice,  120 

Waterfoid,  Conn..  161 

War,  54 

George  Fred,  58,  199 

Vt.,  358 

Westmoreland,  337 

John  P.,  120,  334 

Waterpower,  311,  329,  334, 

Weston,  43,  147 

Rev.  John,  319 

412,     415,    443,    706, 

Westport,  8  1,  83 

Roger,    181,    187,    192, 

758 

Wrest  Rindge,  377 

.193,  317 

Watertown,  Conn.,  284 

West  Rock,  27,  92 

Williamsburg,  400 

Mass.,  76,  146,  149,  297, 

West  Springfield,  127,  309 

Williamstown,  Mass.,  406 

453 

Wethersfield,  31,  43,   103, 

Vt.,  729 

Waterville,  760 

128,  149,  296,  723 

Willimantic,  214 

Watuppa  Ponds,  435,  580 

Weymouth,  27,  28,  33,  52, 

Williston,  734 

Wayland,  Francis,  147 

483 

Samuel,  312 

Mass.,  146,  147 

Captain,  757,  770,  772 

Seminary,  312 

Wayne,    'Mad    Anthony,' 

Whaleboat  men,  72,  79 

Wilmington,  706 

228,  450 

Whaling,    166,    170,    437, 

Wilson,  President,  I  S9,  347 

Wayside  Inn,  144 

545,  552 

Wilson's  Point,  81 

Weathersfield  Bow,  341 

Whalley,  Edward,  92,  93, 

Wilton,  Conn.,  275 

Vt.,  298,  341 

98,     109,     153,    325, 

Me.,  741 

Webb  house,  296 

471 

N.H.,  704 

Webotuck,  240,  289 

See  Regicides 

Winchendon,  596 

Webster,  375 

Wharton,  Mrs.  Edith,  389 

Winchester  guns,  105 

Daniel,   54,   58,   66,   82, 

Wheeler,  Nathaniel,  87 

Mass.,  602 

105,  202,313,316,361, 

&    Wilson    sewing    ma- 

Windham Center,  215 

375,    44i,    528,    532, 

chine,  87,  89 

Windsor,    Conn.,    43,    62, 

561,    567,    6xi     694, 

Wheelock,  Rev.  Eleazar, 

128,  304 

703,  718 

62,  SOI|  366 

Locks,  306 

Noah,  62,  97,  212 

Wheelwright    Co.,    the 

Mass.,  398 

Webster's  Dictionary,  129 

George  W.,  377 

Vt.,  342 

Weeks,  Senator  John  W., 

Whip-making,  395 

Wingdale,  240 

59,  364,  623 

Whipping  post,  84,  92,  95, 

Winnepesaukee; 

Weirs,  The,  613 

122,  278,  459 

See  Lake 

Welles,  Gideon,  117,  303 

Whipple,  Abraham,  60 

Winooski,  273,  735 

Wellesley,  479,  486 

Whistler,    James    McNeil, 

Winslow,  John,  458 

Hills,  486 

_347,  604 

Governor     Josiah,     34, 

Wellfleet,  552 

Whitcombs    Summit,    25, 

173,  533,  577 

Wells,  677 

412 

Winsor,  Thomas,  35 

Reuben  F.,  7gb 

Whitefield,  364 

Winsted,  Conn.,  282,  287 

River,  357 

George,  90,  133,  659 

Winthrop,  Governor  John, 

Wenaumet,  564 

Rev.  Henry,  153 

34,  44,   148,  301,  453, 

Wendell,  Jacob,  386,  387 

White  Mountains,  25,  39, 

462,     472,     479,     506, 

Wenham,  652 

54,  622 

509,  577,  655 

Wentworth,    Governor 

Plains,  67,  204 

Me.,  758 

Benning,     257,     260, 

Plains,    Battle   of,    204, 

Mass.,  629 

341,    346,    361,    405, 

237,  238 

the  Younger,  John,  157, 

666,  669,  723,  747 

Plains  Road,  66 

160,  163,  165,  293,  631 

Governor  John,  55,  361, 

River  Junction,  345 

Wiscasset,  768 

669 

Whitney,  Anne,  476 

Wister,  Owen,  391 

Wepawaug,  90 

Eli,  44,  97,  104,  139,  493, 

Witches,   58,  84,  90,   116, 

Wesleyan  University,  294 

559 

128,    298,    454,    642, 

Wesson,  Daniel  B.,  126 

Harry  Payne,  393 

688,  691,  692,  767 

Memorial  Hospital,  Cyn- 

Josiah Dwight,  315 

Woburn,  40,  602 

thia,  126 

William  D.,  315,  409 

Wolcott,  Governor  Oliver, 

West  Boylston,  376 

Whittier,    635,    659,    663, 

276 

Westbrook,  Conn.,  155 

664,    680,    692,    693, 

Wolcotts,  the,  282 

West  Brookfield,  133 

694,    695,    696,    697, 

Wolcottville,  282 

West  Compton,  618 

698,    713,    714,    74i, 

Wolfeboro,  615 

West  Charleston,  787 

774 

Wollaston,  522 

Westchester  Country  Club, 

Wjckford,  R.I.,  178 

Wood,  Leonard,  657 

67 

Wiggin,  Kate  Douglas,  511 

Woodbridge,    Rev.    John, 

West  Cornwall,  Conn.,  289 

Wilbraham,  131 

8ic 

West  Dummerston,  449 

Academy,  131 

Woodbury,  208 

Westerly,  R.I.,  171 

Mountains,  131 

Woodcock  Garrison,  195 

INDEX 


843 


Woodford,  707 

Yacht  Clubs 

Yale,  Elihu,  103 

Woodmont,  93 

Beverly,  438 

Linus,  Jr.,  414 

Woods  Hole,  566 

Bridgeport,  88 

Locks,  77,  414 

Woodstock,    38,    43,   618, 

Champlain,  269 

rowing,  279 

726 

Corinthian,  633 

Samuel,  109 

Woolen  mill,  first,  117 

Eastern,  633 

Yalesville,  108 

Woolens,    194,    252,    341, 

Larchmont,  68 

Yankee  Doodle  House,  81 

386 

Milford,  91 

peddlers,  307 

Woolwich,  767 

New  Rochelle,  68 

Yantic,  366,  370,  371 

Woonsocket,  217,  444 

New  York,  593 

Yarmouth,  Me.,  764 

Worcester,  136,  140,  148 

Norwalk,  81 

Mass.,  548 

Academy,  139 

Park  City,  88 

Yarmouthport,  547 

Wren,  Sir  Christopher,  49, 

Yale  boat  races,  151,  163 

Yellow  Mill  Harbor,  88 

113,  159 

Charles  P.,  108 

Mill  Pond,  88 

Wrentham,  196 

College,  35,    37,  62,  94, 

Yokun  Seat,  387 

Wright,    Mrs.    Mabel   Os- 

99-104,  158,  162,  287, 

Yonkers,  224 

good,  86 

301 

York,  Me.,  673 

Wykagyl,  68 

David,  103 

"Youth's  Companion,"  17 

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